I Made A Mistake With Something I Sold On Tindie!

[@BrianLough]

Next Maker cast is this Sunday on my channel, make sure to check it out if you are interested! kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5i4lWuonN6SZsk

[@pileofstuff]

Thanks for the reminder. I missed seeing the last one live.

[@phillipbartlett1819]

You gained my respect. Not only did you admit to the issue but fixed it by caring about the customer not your wallet. Awesome job

[@ChunkySteveo]

That's not a fix, that's a solution to allow your new revision board to work on multiple types of display! Great job Brian, well dealt with, and communicated out. I wouldn't stress too much on the ones already out there who come into this issue. Good fix for the USB port too - it's the little things that make huge improvements to a design. I STILL need to get myself one of these panels! Will definitely get on your Tindie store if I need a Wemos to power and work it!

[@johnbubu8310]

You did great. We only learn from our mistskes. Now everything is perfect! Thank you for your good work.

[@davidlegault9745]

Hi Brian, just ordered one to say "thank you" for all the fun I have had with the display. Regards, Dave

[@MrBobWareham]

Thank you for your honesty and stating your mistakes very refreshing to see the projects look good so have you done a video with it working as I would love to buy one and make a clock Thanks Bob in the UK

[@xyloidify]

No one is perfect, thanks for sharing the good, the bad, and the ugly. By the way, I really like your train of thought, and how you solved the problems. Way to go Brian!

[@jonmacd]

Making mistakes is part of being human. Enjoyed the video Brian.

[@BrianLough]

Cheers Jon!

[@englishrupe01]

Hi Brian! I agree with the other guys here.....this just shows what a decent guy you are. Dont stress. Thanks so much for your videos!

[@neogeo8267]

I feel your pain. You're doing the right thing of course. In the future, always test end to end prior to release of product :-) I know it's super difficult to justify at such a small scale but trust me, it's always worth it. You know what that say about the word Assume ;)

[@ByronWatts]

You proved that you are one of the good guys. Thank you.

[@EsotericArctos]

It was good to catch it early. Better to only sell 10 than 100 plus. Great video and the honesty is refreshing. Just a quick question about the controller. Can you connect more than one matrix panel to your controller?

[@BrianLough]

Thanks, yes it's possible. I've only ever connected two so I'm not sure what the max is. The wiring is p-out if the first display into p-in of the second, and then p-out of the second back into my board

[@deathshaker0026]

Hey mate. I just got mine to work! A 16x32 display I got it sometime time last year, and it came an uno shield that didn't work. It's an awesome board you made!

[@BrianLough]

Thank you!

[@deathshaker0026]

@@BrianLough When you released this video I just had to get one of your boards! It's awesome and easy to use! :)

[@BrianLough]

@@deathshaker0026 thanks! I recently had to wire it the manual way for a write up and I forgot how much of a pian it was 😂

[@deathshaker0026]

@@BrianLough Yep. I know what that is like. I didn't do anything cool with it yet. I am just happy to add it to my bag of tricks.

[@groundcontrolto]

Great video Brian! These displays look cool, I might have to pick one up to have a play with.

[@leachim66]

Big respect to you for making this video Brian

[@jp3354]

We use those types of panels in holiday lighting. I make a board that can run dozens of them.

[@BrianLough]

Cool! What drives them?

[@Hasitier]

Ok. Now I understand the reasons for the new revision even better. As a maker I just would have cut that track if I ran into any problems with the e pin.

[@BolverBlitz]

Cutting it wouldn't be a good solution, since i had one Display with e Pin and one without. But i cut the PCB to fix the USB problem.

[@Hasitier]

Marc Bolver as i normally won’t change the matrix display after finishing a project I don’t see any problems with it. And if so I just would resolder it. At the moment I have 3 displays. All from the same batch and all without the e pin grounded.

[@koz]

I have a few of your ESP32 boards. They're great with the smaller 64x32 (with E) matrices. But I see you have one of the "non-E" 64x32 P5 ones, which I also just got hold of. I can't seem to get it to work, even with the E-pin down. Also, in all the other docs and demos I've seen of the P5 boards, I never see those 'extra' connections between the IN and OUT HUB75 connectors. What's that all about? I'm still perplexed about the need for those extra connections for a single matrix board from its own IN to its own OUT. D'yknow what I mean? It's doing my head in. :)

[@BrianLough]

I've had issues programming that larger screen when the display is plugged in, no idea why! I just plugged out the display PSU and it programmed fine. I suspect that's not your issue though. Maybe open up an issue on the PxMatrix. I don't mean to pawn you off but there are some different chipsets and patterns that the library supports, but I've never had to use them so I'm not sure what the story is with them!

[@koz]

@@BrianLough So it turns out my matrix must be kaput. Another P5 32x64 one arrived today and it works fine. But I've also found that I needed to power down the board to be able to upload a sketch with Arduino.

[@llew4]

I don't think those tracks to power the Display can handle 4A as you claimed

[@deathshaker0026]

Well I am glad you posted this video. I just ordered a board! :) :) :)

[@jerril42]

Thanks for sharing your experience Brain. We all learned something now :)

[@ElmerFuddGun]

OK, so let me get this straight... some displays require another signal from the D1 Mini to pin E to work but some others ground that pin because they don't use it (thus putting the D1 into flash program mode)? Is there a display version that doesn't use pin E but also just leaves it floating? What about pins C and D? What is the problem with leaving them connected all the time? I don't have a D1 Mini so I don't know.

[@BrianLough]

Yes, some displays don't use E and they ground it. Not that I know of (re floating) (C & D) Should be ok to leave, but the dip switch is there if needed. I haven't come across a display without C or D yet Even if it doesn't cause a problem, it's best to disconnect them so you could potentially use the pins for something else (a sensor or something)

[@ElmerFuddGun]

@@BrianLough - OK. Well I do have one of these displays that I haven't got around to using so I ordered a Wemos D1 Mini (and a bunch of other shields) to try it out. Should be fun and if I decide to keep it permanently as is I will likely order one of your PCBs. I will check with a meter now to see if that pin is grounded. Thanks for the reply, Brian.

[@squalazzo]

emended mistakes with video about them? You deserve the best, just bought 1 board :)

[@karllaun2427]

Nice work. Ordered one.

[@BrianLough]

Thanks Karl! It's packaged up and will be shipped out this morning!

[@TheDefpom]

Nice explanation about the reason for design changes, and also a nice design.

[@Dust599]

Dont those displays really need 5v logic levels? Every design Ive seen for them uses something to level shift to 5v...

[@BrianLough]

I seen that in a raspberry pi shield (hat?) a few weeks ago, but I haven't had to with an esp8266 anyways. I haven't seen anyone mention it in my first video about it either so it doesn't seem to be a problem

[@maicod]

Hi Brian I am now subscribed to your channel.

[@BrianLough]

Thanks Maico!

[@andymouse]

Nice catch

[@mariushmedias]

You should have saved some money by using cheap plain 0.1" pitch pins and jumpers... already had a jumper on the board so why add another different part... would also allow people to just solder a 0 ohm resistor or a wire (lead from a component) as permanent jumper.

[@BrianLough]

I like the dip switch, I think it makes it very obvious what's what with it. The dip switch are less than 20c each so cost wasn't a huge problem. If I went with headers and jumpers I would need to add 6 extra parts to a kit, which would cost me more than 20c in time.

[@mariushmedias]

@@BrianLough ... and you now have a rainbow of components on the pcb .. big green connector, read and black 5v and ground) power connectors , slightly less red dip switch, some black/puple/blueish dc-in jack, yellow jumper.. where's the visuals, the symmetry (why the bigger green power connector instead of using 3 of same color smaller connectors) Jumpers are cheap in volume and can be used on multiple boards and projects ... ebay has them for ~2.5$ for 200, Digikey has them for 3 cents each if you get 250, lcsc dot com sells you 500 for 2$ ... as for the headers you can buy strips of 1x40 or 2x40 or something like that and cut a 2x3 chunk out of them ... or you know, redesign the board so you have that jumper on the left of your 3 jumpers with a space as separator and now you can place a 2x5 header and 4 jumpers in the box instead of header + jumper + dip switch. You also added what's basically a mechanical part, which may fail at some point or cause imperfect contacts though it's highly unlikely... and if somehow it fails, user may not be able to find a part with same pinout pitch thickness of leads etc etc Anyway... i can understand your reasoning so it's not a big deal, it's just a part for a low volume thing, not the end of the world.

[@Davedarko]

@@mariushmedias what's wrong with rainbows? ;P

[@shaunclarke94]

@@mariushmedias the green connector is that size intentionally to suit the spade terminals on the panel power harness. I don't see an issue.

[@stevensexton5801]

The new board has feature enhancements.

[@BrianLough]

Make it work features 😂

[@i3130002]

Nice one

[@Davedarko]

Easily fixed with a flex :D

[@Davedarko]

good solution with the switches, simple but effective :)