I Made a Miter Shooting Board by Hand Tools! - DIY Tools/Jigs

[@mrtablesawful]

I like your narration. Some people's narration is unpleasant, but yours is calm and deliberate. I also like to make my own jigs and fixtures. It's fun to experiment. Nice work.

[@YRTi]

Thank you! I'm trying my best not to annoy people but I still don't get used to talk to my mic, haha. Yes, it's fun to make jigs and use them to make something! Hope you enjoy woodworking:)

[@abdullahali5039]

Very very cool job Greetings, I wish you safety, success and a good and nice day Abdullah from the State of Kuwait

[@YRTi]

Thank you for the encouragement! I'm happy that my video reached out Kuwait:)

[@ConstantHungerE]

I love this design.

[@YRTi]

Thank you:)

[@willxin4517]

The glue joint is probably introducing a variable into the final result. It did not look like you clamped the joint but used some fast dry glue? Find a way to clamp it up square and use a slower setting glue. Titebond l or something like that. A small variation in glue thickness could easily cause that small deviation from square. Especially if no even pressure is applied. I am putting this video in my to do list. I built the Mitch Peacock version and it is too big for many smaller scale projects, this is perfect. I don’t have a Japanese plane but I will work something out. Thanks for sharing. I enjoy watching your work. Keep at it!

[@YRTi]

Thank you! Like you said, it was slightly off because I didn't use clamps and now it's over 1.5 year after this project, I still use this jig and it works fine:)

[@yasarmevlutoglu776]

Идея идеальная 🇹🇷🙏

[@YRTi]

Thank you! Hope it helps you:)

[@m21sup]

You deserve more likes! awesome project

[@YRTi]

Thank you for the kind words! Don't worry, I'll try to deserve more likes in the future, haha:)

[@GoldPlate29]

I think you can add a strip of paper at the end of the working piece, so closing the angle by half degree.You'll probably get the 90 degree angle when the miter meet.

[@YRTi]

Thank you for the advice! After a year of use, I found that I just simply needed to use clamps to keep them 90degrees... but yes, your paper trick is good to know:)

[@nickwilkins9299]

Great video - thank you so much!

[@YRTi]

Thank you! Let me know if there are any questions:)

[@xspydazx]

The bit and brace tool is very usefull hand tool . It can be used like the edge router , You only need to make a drill guide ( router press Attachment ) It can also be used like a lathe . All stuff you can do with a normal drill :: SO the drill / Router guide . is not hard to make !! I used to think i really needed the drill press , but the mpost important power tool investment apart form the normal hand dril , basically was the table saw !!! Even a Cheep table saw will do as it really helped me deal with wood. now i can take any wood ad get the peices i need at home . i can take a branch of a tree , and shape it ....if your working with metal then the drill press is vital ! ( not just for drilling !! also for other router attachments etc ..

[@YRTi]

Thank you for the helpful information and sharing me with your experience:)

[@dannyhale7645]

That is really cool.

[@YRTi]

Thank you again! Hope you'll like my next video, which will be coming real soon. I mean real real soon.

[@luismigueldominguez5487]

Very, very nice, congrats

[@YRTi]

Thank you! My effort paid off! but still gotta figure out the problem:)

[@MosquitoMade]

Very nice, I've got a similar one that I made from some scraps. Yours looks way better, and I love the clamp bar! I'll have to incorporate that in to my next one!

[@YRTi]

I'm glad that you find something useful from the project! and thank you for the compliment for the look, too. I always spend time on the design so it can work as the distraction for the lack of my skills, haha!

[@LessTalkMoreDelicious]

Wow! I’ve been wanting this jig for a long time! 🙌 I hope I can make it with hand-tools though. 🤞

[@YRTi]

Thank you for the comment. This is a very handy jig:) You can make a simple one and refine the angle as you use!

[@lilystrong9870]

I think it's just the thickness of the wood. Just plane them and you'll get it square on the outside

[@YRTi]

Thank you for the advice! By now, I've been using this jig and kind of figured out the problem:) When gluing, unless I use clamps to hold it 90 degrees, it actually gets a little wider angle than 90degrees most of the time.... It may have something to do with the glue moisture.

[@lilystrong9870]

@@YRTi that's possible. you may need a square block to keep everything in alignment.

[@reaper060670]

Are u from JAPAN my friend?? If u are this is why I respect woodworkers from Japan. The thing with wood is it's very hard to get perfection my friend. This is a very good idea. I sub'd and liked ur video my friend.. I look forward to looking at more of ur content as well. I love the wood panes u guys make. I wish I could afford the chisels u use in Japan too but they are very expensive here in IRELAND to get them.. Everything is getting more expensive now. Keep up the great work friend. This is a very good idea..

[@YRTi]

Thank you for the comment! I'm actually in the U.S. and most of my tools are actually just cheap ones, haha:) Well, I sometimes use Amazon Japan for Japanese tools and it can get super cheap including the shipping cost to the U.S.!

[@sandman2651]

I can feel your pain with trying to get perfect 45 with hand tools, i have no doubt you will manage it though

[@YRTi]

Thank you for the encouragement as always! Every project is a challenge to me and now planning how I can achieve the next one in my head....

[@ibrhemahmed170]

❤❤❤❤

[@YRTi]

😎👍

[@patthevet2]

I am trying to make a miter shooting board as well. Check out Mitch Peacock. His design is adjustable which I think is a good idea for people like us who try to use hand tools only. The other thought I had was to suggest checking your measuring gear. Over time things wear out or get dropped and bent out of shape. All the best and thanks for the video.

[@YRTi]

Thank you for the comment and the information! I think I've watched it:) I wish my measuring gear was out of square rather than a miter box! but yes, I check it once in a while because that's all I have to count on during a project. Now I can make very very close to 90degree after adjusting it so many times and getting to know a tendency of the error by me using the jig (most of my tools are cheepo so knowing the errors is important, haha)! Again, thank you for the comment and hope you'll make a nice one!

[@rosycorona592]

I see that it turned out perfect for you. Rather, I think that the measurement tool is not well calibrated. Cheer up! 😀😀😀

[@YRTi]

Thank you for your kind words! I still use this jig after a year with a minor correction:)

[@shadda]

Love your channel, but I have one suggestion: I've heard you say this a few times now, that you've opted not to go to a proper lumber yard and instead go to a big box store like home depot for your stock, because those watching your channel might be limited thusly. I get your reasoning, however, I think this does them more harm than good. The fact is, the big box stores have terrible lumber that's extremely overpriced (even if it wasn't terrible) and I think a lot of new woodworkers (myself included!) don't realize just how large the difference actually is. Home depot will sell you a 3/4" x 6" x 72" board of cherry (for example) for something like $75+ each. I know, because I have sitting a few feet from me, a small stack of home depot hardwood that I bought when I first started and before I'd ever been to a lumber yard. The appeal was that it was S4S and at the time I have very limited milling capabilities. First, the same amount of wood from a real lumber yard is going to be *significantly* cheaper. As in, that $75 board of cherry would likely only cost about $10 (your mileage may vary of course) and even more than that is the quality. Home depot might say they kiln dry their wood, and they *sort of* do, but their MO is to get things on the shelf as fast as humanly possible. This means they speedrun the drying process and you end up with boards with lots of internal stresses that will literally never stay flat. Your home depot S4S will turn into a cork screw parenthesis the moment you take it out of its packaging, no matter how you try to acclimate it to your shop. Of all the lumber I bought from home depot initially, none of it has been usable. I cut it up into smaller pieces and milled it down to 1/2" thick or less to use for keep sake boxes, as that was all it was any good for, but even still most of what I milled twisted and bowed and cupped because of the flawed drying process. It's simply not worth it. Even if you have to drive a little out of your way to find a legitimate lumber yard, you should. You can still get your boards pre-surfaced, S2S or S4S as you please, and due to their proper drying process you're going to wind up with, the majority of the time, stable, workable stock. Can you get lucky with big box lumber? Maybe? Sometimes? But there's really nothing about it that makes it worthwhile. I still have several pieces of cherry and red oak that are still in their plastic packaging because I know the moment I remove it from the rigid cardboard runners, it's going to turn into a curly q. When I finally did go to a proper lumber yard I felt very, very, very stupid :)

[@YRTi]

Thank you for the comment and the advice! you are right! I started to go to lumber yard and enjoy my less than $5bf cherry:) Since I don’t have a big car, I feel bad that I only purchase a small amount though, haha. But still , I go to a bigbox store or Rockler to get a super small portion of figured wood sometimes for convenience or they have a good deal sometimes, too😎 but again, I really appreciate your advice!

[@YRTi]

Oh, now that I watched my newest speaker build, the reason I mentioned about where to get 1/2" board was, most of the lumber yards here(not a big box store) sell a 1/2" board as S4S and it's the same price or even more than 4/4 rough sawn board and I feel it's a waste of money. On top of it, it's 1/2" S4S (from a lumber yard) but I still have to dimension it to the accuracy I want (Since it's a thin board, it tends to cup more than 4/4 rough sawn board and if a board has a cup, it gets around 3/8" at the end). I don't mind resawing a 4/4 rough sawn board and dimension it by myself with hand tools but I was wondering if I can find 1/2" (maybe rough sawn) board cheaper than 4/4 rough sawn board so I don't have to resaw a board to start a project. I recently saw a guy posted a similar problem on reddit and majority of the people were responding that's what it is so I think, it's maybe what it is.

[@charlesviner1565]

👍📐🔨

[@YRTi]

✋🙂🤚