I Made a Tiny Volumetric Lamp

[@NickElectronics]

If you're looking for project files, they are here (AND THEY'RE FREE): patreon.com/NickElectronics

[@fourmula4812]

may be try a clear o.l.e.d spin

[@NickElectronics]

@@fourmula4812 Yep, there are a lot of things to try, but many creators have already done them. I actually wanted to showcase wireless power transfer in the design because I haven’t seen anyone else using it. That was main idea :D

[@0r_1x]

But what about the grey goo?!

[@NickElectronics]

@@0r_1x Grey goo is powerful! The world holds together because of it. its a 2 component epoxy )

[@metalspoon69]

I love finding little gems like this in my youtube recommendations

[@NickElectronics]

🙂

[@Betruet]

same! I'm very happy when this happens

[@NickElectronics]

@@Betruet Welcome aboard this ship, then! 😀

[@sirtoby2727]

Same for me, great video and I love your sense of humour :)

[@NickElectronics]

@@sirtoby2727 Haha, thank you very much 😁

[@BrokenCurtain]

1:37 Nooo! The green color is an essential part of the cyberpunk aesthetic!

[@NickElectronics]

We can make our own aesthetic! ahah 🙃

[@edherdman9973]

Didn't you hear? It's all about that Yellow Filter since 2011 :)

[@NickElectronics]

@@edherdman9973 And old film cameras

[@markfergerson2145]

Nah, that’s Retro Cyberpunk. Modern Cyberpunk recognizes that boards can be any color the manufacturer has the dyes for.

[@MrSlipstreem]

I've often found that a satisfactory solution to stop someone whining about something being the wrong colour is to paint it a different colour.

[@HarukiYamamoto]

6:45 Petition to turn this into a volumetric display.

[@NickElectronics]

I'll do my best. The hardest part is finding the time to make it

[@Igniferi]

@@NickElectronics you can install a strobelight, it would give the same effect as you're seeing on camera.

[@NickElectronics]

@@Igniferi Probably it would. But I can also do strobing by controlling LEDs properly.

[@communist754]

@@NickElectronicswhat’s the grey goo made of?

[@NickElectronics]

@@communist754 its a 2 component epoxy

[@sblowes]

I like the “mislead” pun!

[@NickElectronics]

Hehehe :)

[@darthjeder]

That reminded me of a Kool & The Gang tune : "Misled" (HD remastered: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4Cbm6aun553p9Esi=fvhLXGpYQHqRztRN )

[@aveoxus1139]

Grey goo may in fact be J-B Weld... in case anyone watching wants something made of different materials to never come apart easily. The end result of the lamp was kind of mesmerizing, subscribed

[@MiTheMer]

That was my first thought too in every case, lol. There may be other gray glue brands, but that one might be the most known one. It is indeed a very strong glue and it can be cut or processed afterwards like cement in a way. A downside I found is that its hardening process is not linear and deceiving. The first few times I used it, I though it has solidified enough now that I can place the part in another orientation, but it turned out that it would still flow a significant amount just due to gravity until actually hardening.

[@NickElectronics]

Thanks a lot! It’s not exactly J-B Weld, but similar stuff. Loctite from Henkel

[@ProSureString]

@@NickElectronics did you just reveal it without even being under torture

[@coolm98]

​@@ProSureStringyou clearly underestimate what creators of diy-electronics content are going through post release.

[@MatthewMakesAU]

​@@ProSureString replying to KZbin comments counts as torture

[@TheKaos90]

Using wireless transmission is a good idea. Another idea is to have magnets on the stator part and pickup coils on the rotor. I know it works because I used it to create a "ghost scope" where a magnet was strategically placed so when the coil flies by, it energises 4 small, low power LED's.The way the "ghost scope" worked was that there were 3 LED's pointed outside placed as a triangle , while 1 LED was pointed on the inside, on the opposite side of the ring. When turned on, you could only see 4 floating light points and you had to align that 4th LED in the center of the other 3. The effect was only visible from the user's perspective with nothing visible from any other direction. Edit : I had a single magnet and a single coil, strategically placed to light the LED's for 1 "frame" during the rotation, and the LED's were in line with the "gun's" "barrel".Very low amounts of power were generated. For a volumetric screen, you'd have multiple magnets, multiple coils, and perhaps a small capacitor and rectifier on the rotor side to supply constant current

[@NickElectronics]

Wow, quite interesting! Thank you for sharing such great knowledge. I know that generators work on this principle, where a changing magnetic field induces current in a coil. I'm just not sure which option would be smaller and cheaper-adding wireless power transfer coils (essentially a transformer) or using a magnet with a coil (generator). Also, with just a magnet and a coil, it’s impossible to regulate the voltage, so additional circuitry would still be needed, as you mentioned. I was considering whether it might be possible to combine a BLDC motor with wireless power transfer. I’m not sure if it’s feasible since I haven't researched it yet, but if there are magnets on the rotor and coils on the stator, that’s essentially a BLDC motor, which generates a changing magnetic field that could potentially be used for both spinning and power transfer (possibly?). But this also raises the challenge of keeping it flat. So, I’ll need to think about this some more-not quite sure which solution would be best." Let me know if you have any more ideas. Thanks :)

[@GeorgeAlbercook]

Do you have any pictures or schematic? I'm not sure that I understand exactly how you made your ghost scope.

[@Droid_Does_not_compute]

This stuff is fun to watch, simple short video, no bluff just straight to the Task, I loved it, keep up the good stuff

[@NickElectronics]

Thank you for the feedback! It’s important to me, as it helps me create more videos like this :)

[@richardlynneweisgerber2552]

my gut would not stop quaking when the molten solder spun-off. ;-) This is awesome, thanks.

[@NickElectronics]

Ahaha. You are welcome 🙂

[@good_dog2470]

4:40 I'm surprised the sponsor isn't Grey Goop

[@NickElectronics]

@@good_dog2470 😅

[@RedRyan]

JB weld needs no introduction It's useful for everything and is a little non-secret that everyone eventually learns

[@vipinkumar5955]

i always admire this type of little creativity

[@NickElectronics]

Appreciate it :)

[@billdoolinofficial]

Love the project, looooove the comedic commentary

[@NickElectronics]

Thank you :)

[@abundantharmony]

Him: "...but my board is already on your hotplate." His girl: "....oh it is?"

[@NickElectronics]

Ahaha. Happened to my friend once! 😆 My friend… 😅

[@Keunt]

theres some little balancers you can get for cheap that are used for balancing RC propellers, might be useful for you.

[@NickElectronics]

I might get one for the next video. It should help me a lot because I’m too lazy to create a 3D model in CAD with all the components' weights to find the center of mass. Experiments are much more fun :D

[@awdhut-e2e]

Another good Chanel boosted by KZbin ❤️

[@NickElectronics]

Welcome aboard! There are a lot of great videos coming up, so sit back, relax, and enjoy :)

[@13SuperSuirre]

You mean welcome 2boards?

[@NickElectronics]

@@13SuperSuirre exactly :D

[@TheHive95]

Really like the build! Though it's gutting that there's not individually addressable [RGB] LEDs to do some funky volumetric stuff. You could add a tiny rp2040 or something on the spinning element (which might help the weight distribution too) then whenever it gains power it continues to cycle through a set of frames for the display. The serial line just adds one extra connection to LED display board. Perhaps deserving of a follow up video!

[@NickElectronics]

I’m thinking about making a follow-up with a controller, like you mentioned. The RP2040 is probably overkill for such a simple task, so I might just use an 8-bit AVR instead. Just wondering if wireless power transfer will affect communication with addressable LEDs somehow, ahhaha :))) Dont know, dont know. Have to test it out.

[@GadgetoidUK]

@@NickElectronics I’d love to see this - it should also be possible to transfer data over the wireless link, allowing for some controls on the base. Works for RFID tags 🤣

[@NickElectronics]

@@GadgetoidUK I'll think about it during breakfast :D Thats why engineering so hard. So many ways of doing the same thing, ahaha

[@macrumpton]

I made a large version of this for my thesis project in art school in 1979. I used copper foil to make shapes that the LEDs would reproduce in lights as they spun on the 20” arm with 50 leds soldered onto it.

[@NickElectronics]

Wow, that sounds cool! What kind of shapes did you make? Maybe you have some photos or references? I haven't thought about giving the spinning part any other shapes... Hmmmm, that might be an interesting direction to explore in future projects

[@macrumpton]

@@NickElectronics The arrangement was like this. The spinning arm had 50 LEDs mounted in a line connected to 50 small nickel brushes that skated over the glass disc mounted on top of the motor, with the shaft coming through it. The motor shaft was connected directly to the arm and provided the positive connection. The negative connection for the LEDs was provided through the copper foil shapes that the nickel brushes skated over. The copper shapes were pretty basic, geometric things like triangles and circles. The piece was focused on transforming physical shapes into light, so the actual shapes were not that important. It had a couple of interesting aspects to it, one of which was, it was kind of scary, seeing this whirling arm that spun up very rapidly When you pressed the pedal in front of the piece. It was also a bit noisy with the fan motor, making this loud hum and the sort of scratchy noise as the brushes rhythmically scratched the Copper shapes. I haven’t thought about it in a couple of decades, and I’m pretty sure the teachers didn’t know quite what to make of it. If I were going to do it again, I would use magnetic reed switches instead of the brushes, and use magnets On the disk to create the shapes.

[@TechTipsUSA]

Although I may be mistaken, I believe you could utilize a toroidally wound coil and a small magnet for power transfer. This arrangement would draw power from the coil’s rotational motion.

[@NickElectronics]

@@TechTipsUSA Yes, you are right. It would generate electricity in the rotating part. But generated current frequency would be lower and thus, bigger filter is needed, or more fancy dc/dc converter at output. I will show it in one of the future videos 😁

[@soflo_fpv2]

Love this format. No bullshit intro, just straight to the stuff we wanna see. Great video

[@NickElectronics]

@@soflo_fpv2 Thank you for the feedback :) Will try to do same in the future!

[@thefourthdymensionmusic]

I love volumetric display stuff. it's such a cool concept that can actually be done. I've always wanted to see a reasonably large one that has a decent resolution.

[@NickElectronics]

Its quite hard to make one. I will try my best in the next videos, but idk if I can make it work good

[@thefourthdymensionmusic]

@@NickElectronics i could imagine the difficulty. especially for larger designs with decent resolution. gotta move that shit that fast for that long that many times.

[@NickElectronics]

@ Yep. Not as easy to make at home

[@hasanali-us7jz]

the algorithm is cooking with these recomendations 🔥🔥🔥

[@NickElectronics]

♥

[@RaineyPeng]

Love mixtela videos and excited to see this addition. Subscribed for future madness 🫡

[@SpeedyGwen]

and by modulating the power that goes wirelessly, u could send data and make it a volumetric display

[@NickElectronics]

I could and still can :D Maybe in the future

[@BitSmythe]

*You can easily balance by hanging the display part from a thread hot-glued (sparingly) or taped to the bottom.*

[@NickElectronics]

Next time I will put more effort in balancing for sure

[@Robothut]

Great idea to transfer power to a rotating unit. Thank you for sharing with us.

[@NickElectronics]

You are welcome. Might try capacitive coupling in the future as well

[@finhas8865]

Pretty sure you could get the stroboscopic effect by turning on and off the wireless power delivery at certain frequency

[@NickElectronics]

@@finhas8865 Yes, you are right. Effect should be quite similar

[@deltacx1059]

0:13 slip ring (which he says in 1s)

[@realalizulfiqar]

so glad, your channel got the recognition it deserves with this video.

[@NickElectronics]

Thank you! I indeed needed that for some motivation :D

[@snipetdm0001]

crazy cinematography

[@NickElectronics]

@@snipetdm0001 Thanks, heheh ☺️

[@yandimieff7527]

Just a great video! I love it!

[@NickElectronics]

@@yandimieff7527 Thank you very much ❤️

[@desmondmiles2369]

any plans on releasing the project files ? would really like to look at the firmware/pcb files

[@NickElectronics]

I will, probably, in the future, when the second iteration of it sees the light. Because so far, there is nothing complicated in it-no MCU, only LEDs and resistors. I might experiment with wireless power transfer in the future and make my own boards. Then I will share them. But if you still need the files after reading this, please message me via email and i will share.

[@DeLoRiAnEc]

​@@NickElectronicswhat about gray goo recipe

[@NickElectronics]

​@@DeLoRiAnEc concrete and water. Boil about an hour on a medium heat. Mix from time to time For real it is epoxy. 2 component one. Loctite

[@DeLoRiAnEc]

@@NickElectronics haha, nice. thank you

[@NiMareQ]

6:05 You can balance it better by placing it on the side and seeing if it rotates on its own.

[@NickElectronics]

Thanks. Next time I will try :)

[@rael5469]

I like how he had the standard KZbin practice of.....discarding the packaging off to the side with disgust.

[@NickElectronics]

Ahaha, right where it belongs! The most interesting parts are usually inside! :D

[@rael5469]

@@NickElectronics Right !

[@masterofnonetech]

JB Weld is amazing 😉

[@electrocrane]

this video is criminally underrated WOW , this is Gem i thought you had 4.85M subs at first , i was shocked , this is a masterpiece man keep it up !

[@NickElectronics]

Thank you very much for the feedback. it means a lot to me! :)

[@Marvinzock34]

4:00 xD crazy explanation you got a sub bro nice project

[@NickElectronics]

@@Marvinzock34 Heheh, thanks :)

[@DatBoiOrly]

The easiest way is to use copper rings have a brass ball bearings in them then having the same at the top basically making power go through two stationary objects

[@NickElectronics]

@@DatBoiOrly I don’t think that’s easy to do mechanically, is it? You have to have two bearings in such case, for + and -

[@DatBoiOrly]

@NickElectronics two rings one for + one for - then brass balls as the contacts theres a guy on YT that did this the same guy that built a 5 axis 3D printer & used it for the heating bed

[@NickElectronics]

@@DatBoiOrly I think I know what you are talking about. But still not quite sure if It can be spun fast without reducing reliability significantly

[@DatBoiOrly]

@@NickElectronics not really no since the only way they can physically come out is through the top & bottom & since weight is solving that it'll be fine

[@NickElectronics]

@@DatBoiOrly Okay, hmm, thanks for the info. I guess I just find mechanical designs more complex than electronics one. So my brain is just not braining in the direction of mechanical solitons 😅

[@chloekaftan]

you can solve this problem by doing the same method as what ship and tank turrets use, the base of the turret is running on a tracked racer ring where power, communications, and controls are being transmitted through, and is usually in the form of a disk at the bottom of the turret housing, though it can also be a ring band around the side walls of the turret housing. this allows for the turret to be swapped out very quickly and easily since there are no binding connections to the turret housing itself, and it allows the turret to spin freely. the way it works is very similar to how a brush DC motor works, the brushes make contact with the anode and cathode, producing a current. these things can be somewhat expensive but if you can buy a cheap ceramic coin and then carefully carve out inlays on them (or alternatively 3d print a ceramic coin with inlays already on them) you can inlay annealed copper into them to form the disk.

[@NickElectronics]

but turrets don’t spin with a speed of 6000 RPM 😅 That’s the problem. I also want to get rid of brushed motor in the design

[@cpscdave]

That is actually really kind of awesome!

[@NickElectronics]

@@cpscdave Thanks a lot! 😊

[@ajaysatpalkar856]

These would make cool tail lamps!!

[@NickElectronics]

For sure, but IDK if the police would allow it, though :D

[@-yeetus]

Dude this is so cool, you deserve WAY more than 10k subs!!

[@NickElectronics]

Thank you so much 😀 One day, one day I’ll have more

[@757beko]

Looks very cool. By sacrificing half of the brightness and refresh rate if you offset the axis of rotatıon half a grıd unit you can have 2x horizontal resolution

[@NickElectronics]

I also just could solder diodes with some shift. But for some reason I did not think about it then. Next one will be better for sure :D

[@JavierGutierrezEscalona]

You have a new sub! Beautiful video and great explanation, thank you very much.

[@NickElectronics]

Awesome, thank you, amigo! Hope to visit Spain someday. I’ve heard Spanish people are pretty friendly

[@ozan1234561]

You could have soldered something like a paperclip which you can bend around and fine tune the balance

[@NickElectronics]

@@ozan1234561 Maybe, but I suppose it might oscillate during spinning and even worsen situation somehow 😅

[@GeorgeSweet]

They really should push more different colored boards to the market. Like a yellow SpongeBob collab.

[@NickElectronics]

@@GeorgeSweet There is such an option actually 😅Now you can add any colorful image as a silkscreen to your PCB 🫣

[@SomaGaming]

Прикольно) Удачи в новых эксперементах)

[@everythingvinyl]

KZbin did well with this suggestion. Just subbed.

[@NickElectronics]

Hehe, thank you :D

[@JayantaBanik-e7i]

maybe use carbon brush for nonnected spinning? like it is inside a dc motor? a lot of drawbacks like heating and other issue but maybe less vibrations?

[@NickElectronics]

Thanks for the tip! I’m not sure it would help with vibrations, but in the future, I might consider other technical solutions. Maybe I’ll even go towards BLDC motors.

[@G7Dropes]

Very good 🤩 Balancing does not require large investments, in mine (without neglecting yours) I used static balancing, checking the balance with the motor stopped, and in dynamic balancing, I placed a piezo disc on one of the bases, and placed weights around in order to detect the smallest possible amplitude on the oscilloscope. Yes, this is real 3D

[@NickElectronics]

@@G7Dropes Hm. Thanks for sharing your balancing method. Probably I will need it in the future 😊

[@G7Dropes]

@@NickElectronics I had great difficulty finding a way to balance it, the closest I came to it was using speakers with weights on the cone, too complicated for small inventions, then I remembered piezos, it's really straightforward 🤗

[@TimoBirnschein]

wow that soldering iron tip... you're a brave man!

[@NickElectronics]

😭The only one I have. I promise I will buy smaller one :D

[@anubhavmuku96]

It was the grey goo that made me subscribe. Counting on seeing more projects with grey goo in it.

[@NickElectronics]

@@anubhavmuku96 Ahaha, thanks for the comment. So I guess grey goo has one more application :D Makes viewers subs

[@llamapoopy]

Love these underrated KZbinrs, tho I did see this and immediately think it was mitxela, you definitely deserved my sub

[@NickElectronics]

Thanks a lot :)

[@amedeodeseta6950]

This is a really cool and beautiful project! I would love to have it!

[@NickElectronics]

Maybe in the future i will sell something simillar, but so far it is too raw :D

[@exoticloop]

Great vid! Looking forward to more. Don't forget the gray goo!!!

[@NickElectronics]

@@exoticloop Grey goo is in my heart forever 🙂

[@AgentGliniarz]

Wow, great job. Greygoo team

[@NickElectronics]

@@AgentGliniarz Thanks :)

[@triandot]

the silence at 5:55 hurts

[@NickElectronics]

But it's such a relief when it ends😅 Yep, nothing is perfect. I decided to leave that silence to create an ambient effect.

[@zdenek7220]

To reduce vibrations, you can use a phone app that graphs gyroscopic data. Place your phone and the lamp on the same surface, and you’ll be able to see how much adjustment is needed to make it run smoothly.

[@NickElectronics]

Thanks for the advice ☺️

[@Imaboss8ball]

Idk what the efficiency is like for wireless power transfer but you could use two different motors. One inner one and outer one to act as a generator. You could probably transfer data through torque variation as well. The benefits is that presumably it wont push unneeded rf into the world.

[@NickElectronics]

You're asking a very good question about efficiency. It's quite low with the motor between the coils because eddy currents are induced in the motor casing, which is essentially a piece of metal. So, a lot of power is lost just to heat the motor, and there's not much that can be done about it. But still, using two motors sounds like overkill.

[@Imaboss8ball]

@@NickElectronics the second motor wouldn't have to be an actual off the shelf motor. You can a hollow ring. Or rather two of them. The inner one would have small magnets. The outer would have small coils.

[@BloodAsp]

This channel will explode in popularity, keep it up! \m/

[@NickElectronics]

Thanks, appreciate the feedback ❤️

[@danbrit9848]

might want to try a bit more heat when melting the solder ...the parts shuld seat themselves with good melting temp ...might want to fiddle a bit to find out if you can

[@NickElectronics]

Thank for an advice

[@professordey]

From the picture and what I can only see as the only logical progression for this tech, I had assumed you were using a flexible PCB disks stacked on top of each other and all spinning together. That would give you a truer volumetric display with far less occlusion in theory. Very cool implementation either way. I do wonder if you'd be able to set it up so you could stack a data signal on the carrier wave of the power coil as well, similar to NFC, that would let you make the display be powered and also dynamic.

[@NickElectronics]

I have just been at the conference where some guys presented their way of establishing communication between two parts of WPT systems. It is not that easy as it seems😅

[@Groovewonder2]

I wanna see an extendo version of these. It'd need a more powerful coil if that one doesn't have much more headroom, but they'd be killer as decorative lights.

[@NickElectronics]

@@Groovewonder2 There is gonna be continuation, definitely 👍 But after several videos probably

[@luceriousisback]

Love this, great youtuber fr. HOWEVER I had to turn the volume down by 70% cause my headphones have incredibly powerful bass. TURN DOWN YOUR BASS FOR YOUR MIC, other then that I love the banger of a vid.

[@NickElectronics]

@@luceriousisback Hi, thanks for the feedback. During audio editing I suppress low frequencies. But I suppose have to suppress even more. Thanks for the feedback, in the next one I will pay more attention to it

[@joeanon1415]

If you very gently lay a small sheet of glass (borosilicate) on top of the leds while your reflow them, it will push down uniformly on the leds aligning their faces almost perfectly while allowing you to view the reflow progress.

[@NickElectronics]

@@joeanon1415 Hm, thanks for the tip! Have to try one day

[@whothewho82]

This is so cool!

[@NickElectronics]

@@whothewho82 Thanks a lot :)

[@J4me5De1t0nniu5]

The spinning itself could actually act as a way to transfer power by passing a magnet near a coil on the floating surface… as it starts to spin it would get power, allowing you to control it via Bluetooth

[@NickElectronics]

@@J4me5De1t0nniu5 I will consider it in the future. But the problem of generator like that is lower generated current frequency. So I would need bigger filtering capacitor, probably

[@bloodyhell302]

Good to see you use J.B. W... grey goo for everything.

[@NickElectronics]

Ahahha 😅

[@blakeforehand2481]

My brother, I'm with you on green solder mask. Now just start pitching for ENIG and we'll be best friends.

[@NickElectronics]

Haha, for sure :D

[@cookedaudio]

Very pretty!

[@NickElectronics]

Thanks! :)

[@katoshi6464]

awesome project, would love to make a lamp like this for my desk but im not sure ill be able to stand all the noise also, great editing and quality, i would have never guessed the video only had 400 views at the time im watching

[@NickElectronics]

Thank you! Yes, noise is the issue, but I believe there are some solutions-reducing vibrations and possibly placing it in a transparent case. I tried my best and put a lot of effort into editing :) I'm very glad it turned out well!

[@pengo98]

1:37 HERETIC! Seriously though, black PCBs look so clean

[@NickElectronics]

@@pengo98 Don’t burn the heretic please 😅 Yep, I like black or white ones more

[@audegottoeaudegottoe363]

Have @Wonderful New Year's ! // thanks

[@NickElectronics]

You too :D

[@sumwanelz6150]

Hey, if you disassemble an old VCR, you'll be able to fish out a multi-channel rotary transformer from under the video head! Careful not to crack the ferrite plates though.

[@NickElectronics]

@@sumwanelz6150 Yes, I have just googled it. Cool stuff. Same working principle 😅 Transformer was invented long time ago

[@raydunakin]

I got a chuckle out of that "size doesn't matter" joke.

[@NickElectronics]

My masterpiece.

[@1marcelfilms]

Simpler if you put strong magnets on the base and use the spinning itself to generate power for the leds.

[@NickElectronics]

Hmm. I'm not quite sure if it's simpler in terms of implementation. It's possible to put magnets on the spinning part and coils on the bottom to create a simple BLDC motor, using the same stator coils for wireless power transfer. It seems like the right way to do it, but it would be much harder to design.

[@tetraktys6540]

puntastic. Great electronics too.

[@NickElectronics]

@@tetraktys6540 ahaha :D Thanks!

[@__oVerdog36]

Great video, can you maybe provide links to the parts? I would love to build one myself.

[@NickElectronics]

@@__oVerdog36 yep, send me request on e-mail please

[@szklanka67]

yt randomly recommended this channel to me, decided to stay for longer. the lamp thingy looks really cool, keep up the good work!

[@NickElectronics]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@sciencekid8500]

you should sell these. I would genuinely buy some

[@NickElectronics]

@@sciencekid8500 I am considering such an option, but it is too raw so far. Its a prototype that requires lots of polishing. But please follow to see when it is going to be ready for the market 🙂

[@sciencekid8500]

@@NickElectronics i would suggest using a 3d printer for a sort of frame, rubber stabilizing feet for a more professional look, and find a way to make it so that the components have pins that connect for easy installation... you could also sell it as a kit.

[@executor485]

Ahhh... A new channel to binge!!! Oh wait, you're new to the game and this good?!?! The Integza of electronics, you heard it here first!

[@NickElectronics]

@@executor485 Ahaha, thank you for your feedback :)

[@hayaletisligi]

amazing project, thanks.

[@NickElectronics]

Thanks for watching! :D

[@skulkingshadow]

Looks really cool, now make a volumetric display

[@NickElectronics]

@@skulkingshadow Step by step

[@lukasgayer5393]

What a cool little project. And just like that I happen to have a ton of components for such thing :)

[@NickElectronics]

Hehe, that's great to hear you found inspiration from the video. Good luck with assembling and dont forget to balance it properly! 😅

[@kidswhodostuff7217]

This is incredible! Would you consider having a clear, cylindrical case to keep things off? Touching that while spinning may be catastrophic. I love content like this man, but I don’t want to misLEAD you.

[@NickElectronics]

Yep, a clear acrylic case around it is a good idea because it would also reduce noise from the motor :) Thanks man, will do more content like that 😉

[@slowrider8680]

Thank you youtube recommendations

[@KevinBoosts]

I love the color. Would you mind sharing the components used? What are the dimensions of the PCB? it seems like an ideal fit.

[@NickElectronics]

Yes, I can share PCBs and components if you send me a request to my email. :) The PCB is about 35mm by 35mm or something very close

[@FrozenKnight21]

I lnow this would complicate this a bit. But you can use your inductive coils to xfer data with power. It takes a bit of work, but it is how RFID works. I look forward to your next project. Thanks for sharing.

[@NickElectronics]

I can try it, but I need to calculate the communication bandwidth because I need to constantly refresh data for a large number of LEDs quite quickly. I should think about it more. Thanks for the advice

[@FrozenKnight21]

@@NickElectronics how fast is rotating? And what is the slew rate of your LED's. Are they monochrome or multi color? If your using monochrome, then you only need 1 bit per led, if they are multicolored then we need at least 3 bits. (For 8 color) Since your typical monitor updates every 1-3ms, ill use that. Anyway do its 1/(bits*update frequency). Then you just need to make sure your coils support that frequency, and encode it with your power. (Though I'll admit that I don't know exactly how that works as I've never tried it, but I know it can be done. I assume there are modules you can get online which do that for you.)

[@bramweinreder2346]

I've seen something like this in a sphere to display a logo! I think it uses a spinning mirror to project the image on the outside. Would be great for fire security signage. Out of curiosity: could the wireless power transfer somehow be integrated in the motor, since it creates an RF field of its own? It would be quite an invention if these two could somehow be unified, even if it's suboptimal.

[@NickElectronics]

@@bramweinreder2346 Thats a good question. I think it is possible to combine both, but idk what are the drawbacks. Probably if the consumption of the output changes, it would also affect motor torque, cause more/less energy would go to the output and less/more converted to mechanical energy of the motor spinning. So theres gonna be motor pulsations for sure. Also, frequency of the WPT current will be lower if its combined, which would require bigger filters. And the positioning wouldn’t be perfect. For BLDC motor, magnets has to be positioned exactly against coils. Same for WPT. Maybe I can use small magnets and bigger coils just around them. I want to test it actually one day, cause there is only one way to find out if it works or not 😅

[@bramweinreder2346]

@NickElectronics I agree, it would probably be difficult to integrate elegantly, with no obvious (niche) benefits against the extra effort and efficiency loss involved.

[@theawesomer]

Very cool - You should put it under a glass dome.

[@NickElectronics]

I will probably in the future :D

[@michaelallen1432]

Heres a thought, use a fixed magnet and a spinning coil so you have a permanent magner generator. On the rotating part you need a rectifier and regulator, and a microcontroller to run it. If you want to be able to communicate with the microcontroller use IR. If you could spin it fast enough you could only switch the LEDs on the peaks of power supply ripples. That leads to the idea of using the current draw of the LEDs as the mechanism that regulates the voltage. There would be a full wave active rectifier and a small capacitor. But there would still be far too much ripple. The LEDs would be switched all on or off by a PWM signal. The small capacitor would be able to provide sufficient filtered power for the microcontroller. The LEDs would be driven at a much higher frequency, PWM to control the voltage. As the voltage ripple rises, the LEDs are switched and draw current regulating the voltage. So as the motor spins up, there is enough filtered power for the microcontroller, it boots up then starts regulating its own power and operating the display. Assuming you can synchronize everything, it all works. Assuming that's possible. It's not necessarily better than the wireless power. In fact, that's probably more practical. But it's a cool idea if you can get it to work. In fact that leads to another crazy idea. What if it's NOT a permanent motor. What if there are stator coils and rotor coils. It starts up with the rotor coils shorted and the stator is driven to start it as an induction motor. Maybe it is just powered of a 60hz transformer or maybe a very simple oscillator. Like a neon bulb relaxation oscillator. But as it spins, for a certain part of the cycle, it draws power off the rotor coils, which slows the rate of spinning down and generates power. Other than that it's similar to the previously discussed system. It sounds "complex" but the idea is, everything does double or triple duty. It's not so much complex , as intricate like a Swiss watch. If it can be made to work. Edit: I just thought, There's another possible thing you can make the coils do. When you draw current from the rotor coils , you can detect that in the stator coils. So if you run both the stator and rotor from small microcontrollers, you could potentially use that to communicate between them to update the display. Some sort of thing where it would do something at a particular time or in a distinctive way to indicate a bit.

[@NickElectronics]

A generator is a good idea, but the frequency of the generated waveform will be low, even with a generator that has 3 poles and 6 coils. So, I would need quite a large capacitor to keep it stable Wireless power transfer works on 85kHz btw

[@michaelallen1432]

@@NickElectronics Electrochemical capacitors (super capacitors) are surprisingly compact. I can't necessarily say they are compact ENOUGH, but they might be.

[@NickElectronics]

​@@michaelallen1432 But they are not very suitable for filtering. They are intended for high-energy storage applications. Their ESR is quite high, which makes them less effective as filters

[@shinrakishitani1079]

I've always wanted a Grand Turismo volumetric display

[@NickElectronics]

@@shinrakishitani1079 Here it is :D

[@overtorquednut]

I'm with you 100% on banning green PCBs. It's not the 1980's anymore!

[@NickElectronics]

[@TheRambo010]

You could have made the wireless power transfer with just a magnet on the bottom and a coil cutting the magnet's field. It would make it heavier for the motor to spin, but you would need a driving coil.

[@NickElectronics]

@@TheRambo010 Yes, i could. In the future I will change the design a little bit ☺️

[@fxm5715]

When I saw the thumbnail and title for this video, I thought you were that guy who made the previous battery powered volumetric light. Excellent job, sir.

[@NickElectronics]

Thanks :)

[@MrBademy]

this looks like next gen evolution of the loading screen :D

[@NickElectronics]

Good idea, by the way. But when you have to wait for something in real life

[@MrBademy]

@@NickElectronics ye like a modern restaurant calling mechanism when you press a button and you wait for the server, or maybe in hotels in reception some type of modern bell :D or maybe on airplanes when there is someone in the toilet it goes red xD many ideas bro, there is potential for this ==]

[@NickElectronics]

​@@MrBademy Everything has potential. But the question is whether it has it enough

[@MrBademy]

@NickElectronics true, you gotta try different shapes

[@MrBademy]

@NickElectronics I'd buy one to put as PC accessory

[@balazsdusek]

legendary youtube recommendations pull

[@NickElectronics]

Thanks for the feedback ❤

[@aelinwhitehorn3526]

please share details on the wireless power system.

[@NickElectronics]

@@aelinwhitehorn3526 It is premade boards from aliexpress. Just type wireless power supply module 5V in search and you will see plenty of them. They are all similar. I am working on my own system with PCB coils. Probably gonna be in of the next videos If you cant find it, here is the link: a.aliexpress.com/_EHzJ7gt

[@K-Effect]

They would make cool tail light lamps for a vehicle

[@NickElectronics]

Yes, that's for sure

[@DiThi]

You can probably balance it with a cheap micro scale, by having one side of the assembly rest on the center of the scale with a peg, and the other side to a fixed post of equivalent height. Then you can rotate the platform to see at what point it is heaviest or the lightest.

[@NickElectronics]

Hm, I hadn’t thought about that. The only solution I found online is to place a rotor on a loose horizontal shaft and rely on gravity. The heaviest part of the disk will rotate to the bottom.