I Took Apart My DeLorean Engine & Found The "Valley Of Death!" What Would You Do Here?

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In this video, I take apart my DeLorean engine & found the "Valley of Death." This is disappointing to say the least. Let me know what you guys would do in this situation.
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[@LegitStreetCars]

I finished the DeLorean! Check this out! kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqSkqYmqbpmmmJo

[@somphothbsiratsamy3748]

Okay, I don’t care how many movies it’s been in, that is a horribly designed engine

[@somphothbsiratsamy3748]

Trash the motor and put a cheap is250 motor in it

[@somphothbsiratsamy3748]

😂😂😂😂😂😂 the radiator pipes run below the whole car. 😂😂😂😂😂😂 fukn fanatics

[@jonmitchell9019]

@@somphothbsiratsamy3748 Look at me! Look at me! I'm the waterboy! Grrrrrr!

[@jonmitchell9019]

I watch a guy years take the valley and had a pro fill that up with new weld and it lasted forever he still has that car. You should of least super pressure cleaned the area and painted it with high temp to protect it from farther on.

[@SudosFTW]

A suggestion: while expensive, it might be pertinent to actually go and clean up ALL the corrosion in the valley and then coat it in a layer of Alodine like what would be done in aviation on aluminum, just as a peace of mind thing. You can't gain back the aluminum, but you can at least protect the aluminum you do have from corroding. Generally it's used for creating a surface for paint to stick to in airplanes but in your case, I'm wondering if a few coats of that won't hurt, and then some high temp engine paint in something a bit brighter so you can see any oil leakage in the future.

[@paulnielsen8528]

I bet you just watched Rebuild Rescue 45 minutes ago.

[@hamood1234fool]

I was thinking of filling it with carbon fiber and resin

[@DillysADV]

I was thinking even cheaper.. fill the valley bottom with JB Weld. It would bond to reinforce the material that is still there. Either way,if it is going to fail and there ain't anything you can do about it, run it until it gives...

[@kenstrain4366]

@@DillysADV That was my thoughts too.

[@greggdalton4110]

Could you coat the top of the valley of life (thinking positive) with something like JB weld? And yes you are right I am not a car guy.I change oil and do brakes that is all. And I enjoy your all your videos. Good luck!

[@andrewp4258]

I agree with Mike. That level of corrosion is quite normal. I’ve seen plenty worse. My DeLorean engine was similar to that and by now most are likely like that. Doing a great job!

[@EdwardM104]

Idk if you've already ordered them, but I highly suggest replacing the fuel injector lines. Also, if the engine goes, a common swap is the Eagle 3.0L PRV engine. Decent bit more power and easier to work on. Do the manual as well at the same time.

[@chicagomodzz]

Mix up about a half gallon of JB weld and give the whole valley a good coating to protect it.

[@backyardgarage]

Exactly what I'd be doing.

[@theelectricmonk3909]

I thought the same too - I'm not sure if JB Weld could handle the thermal cycling though, it'll be pretty hot in there. I wonder if thoroughly cleaning it with brake cleaner, then painting it with a heavy coat of high temperature BBQ/header paint might at least stop any future degradation.

[@lancenutter1067]

Yes, my thoughts are similar, to at least stop the corrosion.

[@saulns7159]

Had the same thought lol

[@jimkalfakis9893]

I agree 100%! You cast a whole new block.

[@jmaxim80]

The engine valley is fine brother, i think the biggest thing is keeping all that junk out of that valley. Like any other kind of metal, wet dirt is really great at deteriorating it. I'd probably spray it with some fluid film at the very least to try and protect the aluminum for as long as possible. Anyway shes gonna be one nice set of wheels to enjoy yourself in.

[@williamrogge6268]

Coolant on your hair? Does the DeLorean know you might become a hot-head?

[@jw4620]

I'm 77. I've said every word you said many times over. But you still kept it civil. Great channel and keep up the good work. When I started wrenching, all you had to be able to do was set points and valves, and you were golden.

[@1slow370]

Clean it and paint it with an ablative zinc paint. If it breaks get it glass beaded and welded. You could probably have it reamed and sleeved (coat a tight fighting tube with epoxy and press it into the passage) and drill out the connecting oil passages

[@matthewcalifana488]

I was thinking J B weld , Worked 4 me on transmission line .

[@dariocastro9079]

something like is what i was imagine before seeing it ... i think it can work if the damage is not terrible

[@billpar]

I was thinking something similar

[@1slow370]

@@matthewcalifana488 I would typically go for araldite 2014 but same concept

[@skylinefever]

@@matthewcalifana488 I heard Belzona is a good replacement for JB Weld.

[@christaylor93]

Personally, on the valley issue, I would have definitely tried to clean it better to get the dirt off, not necessarily blend out any damage, just get as much of the dirt off as possible, then applied alodine and a primer, then corban 35.

[@bartolomeothesatyr]

^^^ This.

[@timmoles9259]

After a much better mechanical cleaning follow-up with Alumprep before alodine.

[@mikeygandalf3335]

I think this and it may sound kinda junky but put some jb weld on it, at least that will keep any more dirt off the oil passage

[@EdwardM104]

I'd be careful with any coatings on the block. I spent probably 15 hours cleaning the block on a DeLorean and sealed it according to a forum post and the first time I had to remove the intake again, there was unavoidable fuel spills into the valley and all of the coating came right off. I did have a much much worse block than this one and anticipate having to replace it at some point so I used an aluminum epoxy on the worst looking bits and that is probably better than any coating. About hard as the other aluminum and really well bonded. Pointless? Maybe, but it was my friend's car and he wanted to experiment instead of proactively replacing the block.

[@bertram-raven]

Aluminium "Cancer" is worse than rust. It snakes its way into the ali and makes it friable.

[@ScottAPetty]

You should look into doing dry ice blasting for the entire underneath!! It’s way cleaner and does a great job.

[@larrysorenson4789]

The Ice guys charge a ton for their process. Imagine if some guy had a mobile unit so that the zillion in- progress projects could get a bit cleaner during the project.

[@capicolaspicy]

So agree with your plan to go ahead and pressure wash the entire underside. It's the closest you can get to a full restoration without dismantling the entire car! Absolutely loving watching your progress!

[@baliessong7081]

NO! get rid of that pile of shit motor!!!

[@stevealan2289]

Clean the valley, use JB weld or similar epoxy to fill concerning areas. Lastly, apply a good engine paint to the valley to inhibit future corrosion.

[@timtimtimmay4654]

Dry ice blast, Cerakote, and as an additional safety measure add an easy to access zinc electrode from a boating supply store for sacrificial anode to absorb ions that you can routinely clean and replace to prevent any further corrosion. That should last well enough to prevent any further degradation.

[@ducko2424]

I'm loving these DeLorean restoration videos. Great Job Alex! 👍

[@hgsnotes]

For the AC you don't need to change to 134, just get the duracool or 12a refrigerant with an adapter for the fill connection. Don't have to change anything in the system. Works better than 134. My 71 buick riviera still had pressure in the original system so I was able to recharge and it works great.

[@petetofani4896]

Dry ice blaster would work great to clean things back to new under the car and in the engine compartment.

[@smartsoap9614]

Dude you are a legend. Love this channel love your work. You can even feel the emotion through the screen. Incredible, watch every Saturday for the past year pissed I didn’t find ya sooner!

[@viatronmac]

Looks like a prime candidate for treating with Devcon, give them a call I’ll guarantee they have a coating that will seal all that up and will also put some structural strength back into it.

[@SkypowerwithKarl]

I can’t believe you didn’t protect those open ports when you were digging and flipping dirt in the valley.

[@ahalstead40]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who winced seeing that

[@aydaenlynch2088]

Oof I know. I was wincing while the cut off wheel sparks shot up around the open manifold ports. 😬

[@ianwheeler683]

First thing l thought, bit amateur hour to be honest.

[@youtubevoyeur4104]

Came here for these comments, I was horrified watching the grinder sparks going everywhere with the ports open and the vacuum poking around!

[@jamesemcclure]

If Alex is thinking of replacing the engine then it doesn't matter

[@TheNightstalker80]

In the interest of preserving such an iconic car, I would disassemble the entire engine and everything that goes with it. I would clean the block, perhaps by dry ice blasting, and then look for a suitable coating such as Alodin (which is not really a coating but more of an etchant) as someone has already mentioned. This car deserves it!

[@markkoranjr6426]

Really shocked that you didn’t cover the intake ports before more tear down 😉

[@aDaWaN]

I think that block can live for a long time. I would attack the corrosion on top and seal it with some anodizing coat or epoxy. Once sealed by epoxy it should not further detoriate; so not leaks today will mean no leaks for a long time. As usual you guys are doing a great job, thanks for the video!

[@atrociousliar3314]

I'm so pleased there are people on this planet who like doing this stuff. It looks like he'll on earth to me. By 5 minutes in I would have stripped something and lost something else. I would then not have the correct tool for something and then forget what went where. God bless you.

[@LegitStreetCars]

What would you guys do? Run it until it blows up, replace the engine or ????

[@cardude8996]

Replace with original motor

[@orange2352]

Blow it up then replace!

[@AlexKingstone]

I would run until it goes bad

[@foxysausage6091]

Go see Mr Wynne for a NOS replacement / rebuild.

[@alvaroalfaro8979]

LS swap with a Porsche transmission. Or EV and do all lighting with Led and panels with screens, so you came back to the future it

[@ravennexusmh]

wonder how easy it would be to get a B280E from europe in there. keep it PRV for a nice bump to 170hp, and maybe some renautl 25 turbo manifolds from france and turbo that

[@MMMX38]

You should definitely check out dry ice blasting. It makes literally everything look brand new.

[@monoskier2112]

This has to be the greatest Delorean Restoration series on KZbin ever!!!!!!!!! You are doing a fantastic job on this car. I really can see this Delorean worth six figures easy when your completed. 😎🇨🇦

[@billvanderpol]

Wonder if it would work to just pour the whole valley full of some super strong epoxy so that it will seal? There is also corrosion inhibitors in the airplane world that might keep what is there and make sure it doesn’t get worse. Alodine might be a good option.

[@DanielvanKATWIJK]

They used to have carbs, 1 quadruple for the 4 front cylinders and 1 double for the 2 back cylinders. The engine is the one from the Alpine A 310 V6, One of the uses of the PRV (Peugeot - Renault - Volvo V6). Those carbs were a pain in the but to tune.

[@antonczerwinske5910]

If you replace the engine, please dont put in another delorean engine. Its a car ahead of its time, it deserves an engine from current time

[@silverghini2629]

Go EV!

[@leeweinstein5372]

You should clean the aluminum in the valley really well and fill it with a good quality epoxy. Consider chemical cleaning and epoxy primer first, and something like 3M DP-420. It will outlast the engine. I've used it to repair engine blocks in the past and worked great.

[@TimMcCreary-g5r]

Why don’t you coat the valley with some type of sealant and maybe fill with an epoxy or silicone to prevent further deterioration. We use a product called Alodine that attaches to aluminum and acts like an anodized coating. Good luck, great content!!!! Tim

[@urgolf1974]

I think, you need to search for a company that does "laser deposition welding". After proper research, and practicing on a ruined delorean part, they could laser weld layers on your "valley of death" out of metal powder or metal wire. It might be very well possible, but probably the most expensive approach, and an adventure for itself, i guess.

[@srboromir452]

I was thinking of those old machines that were basically a paint gun filled with metal powder hooked to a blow torch, this is an even better idea, less "over spray"

[@chrispompano]

Spray Welding......!

[@xSupermanstightsx]

Have you considered flooding the valley with high temp epoxy? The liquid epoxy would fill in all of the voids and be held in by them. And it'll resist heat while sealing it off from further damage, and prevent further deterioration? Not JB Weld, actual high temp epoxy. As long as the surface is prepped properly it would be an effective preventative. Just a thought to help that original engine last long into THE FUTURE!!!!

[@revolutionday1]

I once repaired the entire inside of a pot metal thermostat housing with JB Weld, and as far as I know, it's still going!

[@ryanehlis426]

JB weld is stable up to 500 degrees F, The engine valley should never get close to that hot.

[@SabotageGarageUSA]

I have ported aluminum intakes and added aluminum to the outside to keep thickness. Tig welding works better but I only have used mig

[@DRV-mt5dd]

Just depends on the normal operating temp of that surface. And as another person commented would be good to surgically clean and then alodine that aluminum.

[@JamesHalfHorse]

I was thinking that. Something strong but still have some flex to it so it won't crack or seperate with the constant heat cycles. Just flood it on and let it fill in everything. If it was further gone or already starting to leak if it was mine I would try it. Not much to lose. Even in the shape it's in I would consider something like it that protects what he has left from getting worse as it seems under the best conditions it's a place where dirt and chemicals like to build up and not easy to clean. Having basically a clay shield over it the last 30 something years might have caused the damage you see but prevented far worse from getting to it.

[@vanillagarilla965]

I used to work at a shop where we took in deloreans and got them running up in mass , I didn’t enjoy it then and watching you do it I don’t think I would enjoy it now either. I am having fun watching you go through everything I did with these things though.

[@t0n4us]

Might want to use a dry ice blaster to clean the valley. Also the rest of the engine, while you're at it. Would look close to new with minimal erosion. 😉

[@Robsav-yx6vi]

Yes . Excellent advice

[@BAMFSpYdy]

I remember one of the selling points of the DeLorean being that it will never rust. They never mentioned that the drivetrain would eventually eat itself. I also remember rumors of some people getting rebates in the way of a bag of cocaine in the glove box.

[@Stricklinator]

Could you clean it really well and use some sort of epoxy to seal and protect that area? Also, an LS swap in these are pretty cool!

[@ryanabitter]

Agreed, kind of like what the Honda guys use to fill around the outside of the cylinder walls

[@Battlefresh]

I would use Devcon F aluminum epoxy. It pours thick and will seal and protect that aluminum underneath and once it sets, it's basically solid aluminum.

[@Ratkill9000]

LS will wreck that transaxle.

[@johncowie3092]

Ls would defeat the point no

[@petebeatminister]

Its astonishing to see how they improvised when they build the car. The rubber mats held with zip ties - hilarious.

[@mattus1gig]

The thing is, it lasted. I bet anything made today won’t be around after 40 years.

[@petebeatminister]

@@mattus1gig Well, in general, cars from the 80s and earlier were pretty terrible compared to those today. The DeLorian is a exception because it is partly made of stainless steel - and was parked in a shed for over 30 years.

[@StarwaterCWS]

I personally think you should ignore all these comments and keep doing a stellar job. Too many armchair mechanics that think restoration of the Dodge Dart they completed in 1982 made them experts on DeLoreans.

[@genieb]

Have you considered to fill the Valley of Death with something like Devcon or similar ?? That would add years to the life I'm sure ;). Other option could be flame sprayed or arc sprayed aluminium.

[@peterbrown7913]

💯, he doesn’t even consider any potential measures to extend the life of the block, I thought of a couple of epoxy type coatings, Devon, JB weld, AW Chesterton also may have some suitable products.

[@CrankAddict]

Excellent investigative work. Can you blast that valley area and seal it with Glyptol or another similar compound? Maybe an epoxy primer would seal that aluminum also.

[@johno9507]

In Australia in the late 80s my Dads Volvo 264 gle had the 'valley of death' explode. I remember this huge cloud of oil and coolant vapour just envelope the car as we were driving. His car was only about 10yrs old. 🇦🇺

[@investit4]

You should have covered the Valley of death (upper engine block) with solder (it covers evrything and prevent's future rust) after that is colled down , painted with zinc can-spray , and a protective ruber(like the soundproof you used inside or fiberglass) - Then remount evrything. They use solder/welding to fix broken iron on old engine-blocks on vintage cars here in Europe.(they even use solder on futureproof-ing the body floor of the chassis on vintage cars.)

[@Electrajim]

There is a vacuum, routing hose diagram, right by your head, under the engine cover. A service, manual or shop manual for that engine is probably available too with diagrams.

[@melwebb8485]

Has anyone missed this but 1M subscribers, WELL DONE Alex.

[@LegitStreetCars]

Thanks!!

[@Razor6On3]

​@@LegitStreetCarsgo to eastwood and pick up some glyptal red. Its a coating you brush on and it will seal the aluminum and add some stability to it, not to mention it will make it a burnt red color and shiny smooth. They use it to coat inside heads to make the oil move without any restrictions.

[@mymattr]

Another solution is a product called "Glyptal". It is an insulating coating that I’ve used in the valley and heads of my Windsor Ford motor. Used it more for oil return flow, but it is a nice thick coating that will survive inside your valley and also stop corrosion if water gets in there. Sold by different places.

[@todvanced7842]

Pour a sheet of hot lead on it like they do for chimneys. It would be an insulator and add thickness and fill in the pores. Just a thought. Otherwise. Have a welder that specializes in aluminum look at it and get his opinion. He might have options that others aren't aware of.

[@perkins1439]

I would guess the springs on the butterflies in the throttle body or so if it backfires it won't blow the intake off

[@RealRickCox]

I feel like your DeLorean is an ACTUAL time machine.... because you took us back in time and this car should be good for many years into the future.

[@brecklandwarrior]

Got to agree with some of the comments on here, clean up the aluminium then over coat the valley area with any of numerous epoxy compounds like JB or Devcon.

[@SheriffJackCarter]

I came here for the Space Van, and stayed for the DeLorean. Awesome work!

[@arnoldmcqueen2944]

I agree to clean the valley real well, maybe put jb weld in the divots and seal it real well.

[@wolfensteinman7978]

There are some aluminum welders in my area they can add some aluminum back in the craters and reinforce the weak areas.

[@ced3098]

Most quite old European engine have near pierced core plug / freeze plug , in most case they look shiny outside but completely rusted and corroded inside and at least fail during a trip , best is to change them for fresh one .

[@harrybrown4815]

Chem clean and fill the valley with aluminium dust and epoxy this bonding will reinforce the area and prevent further corrosion.

[@stephenhegarty]

5:01 - looks like a fuel pressure regulator or a pulse dampener, but I think the latter was just on electronic fuel injection motors

[@Brandon_Brown]

I swear this is the best automotive KZbin channel out there.

[@tylerandersenandthegang]

Coat that Valley with JB weld nothing too thick. Because it will act as an insulation and become a Hotspot... I would think a quarter inch would make a world of improvement

[@markhunter3935]

{Vacuums up all the dirt in the engine} - "You know I'm saving this!!! This is DeLorean dirt!" :D

[@brainiator]

Seeing him flick all the dirt around in the valley around the open intake ports was giving me anxiety. lol As a former Delorean owner myself, Godspeed good sir.

[@michaelmarrett6423]

I see from reading some of the comments that sine other people already have mentioned the same thing that I would suggest, which to coat or fill in the low places on the engine valley with some sort of epoxy, after steam cleaning and/or etching the surface.

[@FairladyS130]

The valley of death. I wouldn't be leaving it as is, clean it up perfectly and give it a coat or two of thick two pack something to stop any further exterior corrosion and to add a bit of strength. PS I see that others are suggesting something similar, the forum has spoken.

[@neckofthewoods24]

Id do I high temp epoxy down in the valley. One that won’t hurt aluminum but will hold and bond.

[@TheWorks08]

Musical horn upgrade with Back to the Future theme song. 👌

[@navyvet9311]

You could dry ice blast the valley and remove all corrosion and like already said coat it with alodine to help prevent further corrosion.

[@usjosharmy]

I seem to remember when Wheeler Dealers did a Delorean they swapped it to a carburetor and it ran much better and made a bit more power

[@AllanWorks]

you should take a wire brush to the engine valley, degrease it, fill bad spots in with JB weld or aluminum low-temp torch welding rods, and give it a good coat of galvanizing spray paint. if you do this I doubt you will ever have to worry about the valley of death.

[@AutoReport1]

The engine was upgraded and used by Renault and Peugeot until 1996, and sold to Fiat for use in Lancias, so at least finding more reliable parts shouldn't be too bad. Working out which bits can be used to improve on what you have is the trickiest part, but maybe someone has already done that.

[@michaelgregorio1896]

All of the best for the rest of the restoration.

[@49BigPoppa]

Dry ice blast the valley and have welder Tig some aluminum over the whole thing to build it back up

[@K1VV1939]

Yep @SudosFTW has this covered, sand blast it get it clean and coat the surface with something - I'd be tempted to find a Filler to make it a NOT WET/Dirt Trap . Once you have everything in there flood fill the valley of death with something

[@apacheandy]

Randomly came up in my feed (thanks algo!) and...a youtube mechanic I can watch more than 20 seconds of! Great work, and hope to see more.

[@ralph9987]

I found it incredibly hard to watch you trying to clean, while you didn't think to cover the inlet ports!!😮😮😮

[@eddiesanchez86]

Nice grinding right Into open Intake ports...

[@DavidB-bp3ul]

Should use dry ice blasting to do the underside !

[@danchesney631]

Before reassembly, wear chemical-resistant gloves, clean, clean, clean & degrease the valley with brake clean, from this point on never touch the surfaces with your bare hands. Abrade surfaces with Scotbrite &/or aluminum oxide sandpaper to remove all traces of corrosion, rinse with distilled water & dry with a heat gun, clean again with alkaline cleaner, rinse with distilled water & dry with a heat gun, manually apply Henkel touch-n-prep conversion coating pen, let air dry, & then coat with aerospace-grade solvent & fuel-resistant green primer, let fully dry for 7 days. Valley might outlast the car but pray anyways.

[@shanebarber1634]

Alex is there some kind of hardened epoxy that you could paint the valley to further protect it and build it up thicker

[@kamoboko86]

You could ceramic coat or paint the valley before you put it back together to protect it in the future

[@scettzvill]

you have, what is known throughout western/northern Europe, as a typical case of the Frenchies. where you get a car, with an engine made by people to preoccupied with developing suspension, they didn't give much thought about wear and tear use cases of moving parts that continuously heat cycle. look for common, cheap, reliable engine swaps for these, that AREN'T LS, and go for one of those. bonus points if you drop in a Toyota engine. and whatever you do, avoid late 90 early 2000 1.8 liter inline 4 engines, those were the years of the bad piston rings.

[@skyfreakwi]

You should fill the craters in with jb weld or alumabond or whatever... Then coat it with POR15 that should keep it sealed and separate. Just a thought.

[@TrekBeatTK]

I have no knack for car repair and don’t even drive because it scares me but boy have I always wanted a DeLorean.

[@simonduxbury7523]

Great video and very entertaining you need to get a paddling pool for when you wash under the cars to collect all the water and waste makes it much easier to clean up afterwards 😉

[@hotshoe1958]

You know what a lot of Delorean owners do is chuck that boat anchor engine and put in your Grand National power plant. I happen to have a rebuilt short block and heads and most of the parts except ecu. That be more than enough to got her up to 88 mph +.

[@DeadKoby]

I appreciate the care and attentiveness you give the car. Cool stuff.

[@TheGillhicks]

Life hack. I took a spray can top, some duck tape and some old rubber hose and made me an attachment for my Wet/Dry Vac that can get to small areas.

[@GloggsCoolJ]

Im thinking a good cleaning to stop further corrosion, and paint it to protect from new debris

[@simonscott1121]

Castings are always rough, unless they're a machined surface (which that wont be). Personally Id clean that up with a wire wheel, maybe TIG some real dodgy areas, then coat it with something protective and move on with your life.

[@CCerwin]

As a retired ase with 2 year associate degree in specialized automotive technology have not seen one that horrible that was in such good shape when cleaned out. You got to it in time my cat dude Congratulations 🍾

[@the_Texas_Bandit]

If you wanted those specific horns, work a shit load of wd40 into the horn, and work it roundy roundy to the core, then turn the adjusting screw in and out several turns. Always worked for me , then you can do the Euro annoying one high, and one low tone.

[@lindagitschlag4522]

Love this. An aside: please run single ads. I dislike youtube trying to condition us to multiple ads like the old television ads used to be. Thanks.

[@coreycollignon6843]

a wire finishing wheel and a proper coating would save that valley for life....elbow grease and some good coating wouldnt be that expensive

[@alpine1600s]

It's a PRV V6. It was used in 19 other cars during the engine's production.

[@johnnoble-ray4223]

@LegitStreetCars I would pull that engine and send it for rebuild and then sell it off to a collector that wants to do a full restoration. As for the DMC, I would shove a vortec 4.3 v6 in place of the stock motor, as it would become much more cost effective to maintain and repair, plus the vortec makes way more power then the stock motor in the DMC dose, so it's a win/win type of situation.

[@jlawlar]

alu can be welded, even braised with those cheap zinc, lead low temp alloy rods. I wouldn't worry about it not like its a cylinder head.

[@TheRavnKnight]

you can use a epoxy paint in the valley to save it from further rusting and give you years of future use ... just make sure it is engine approved epoxy paint

[@naynayfaxon1698]

😂 cleaning activities.., love watching this restoration. I have a 95Wrangler YJ I want to start doing...

[@tylerandersenandthegang]

I also noticed parts of that Valley never seemed to dry almost like they are leaking through the pores.

[@davebarron5939]

Looking at the "Rube-Goldberg" that is that engine system, (all due respect) all I kept thinking was .......... LS. So simple, so inexpensive, so powerful.

[@clintharris1898]

Crazy idea that I've seen that works. I've used Hy-Poxy's H-450 Alumbond (epoxy designed for aluminum and aluminum alloys) for engine repairs as it was a last ditch effort to repair it. Previously tried using a welder in my area that was a family friend and worked on restoring classic Ferrari's. With that kind of experience, I thought he'd be good...but he couldn't get it to work. I cleaned it up REALLY well. I heated it with MAP gas and the non-flammable brake cleaner using sand paper and wire brush (the important part is to use non-flammable brake cleaner if you're using flames...don't ask). After I felt it was perfectly clean and the aluminum pores were free from oil and dirt, I hit it once more with sand paper and quick squirt of brake cleaner before coating with the Alumbond to remove any recent oxidation. I've got to say that it work much better than I had expected. I was able to ride that motorcycle in all conditions and it work great! Previously, it leaked oil continuously, making it unsafe to ride. I wonder if coating the valley of death with H-450 would work to add an additional layer of protection? It worked well on my water cooled engine (motorcycle). It sealed up a nasty oil leak that had occurred from a broken chain (previous owner). Additionally, it dries in a nice aluminum color. At first, it's runny, but as it is continued to be stirred and getting into it's workable time limit (about 45 minutes), it starts to thicken up a bit. As with any product, preparation is key. Finally, mileage may vary.