But It Looks Like Metal??

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Painting a 3D printed prop to look like metal. Is it worth it??
• But It Looks Like Metal??
I Like To Make Stuff
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[@StoneUSA]

I am surprised that the "all out" version wasn't electroplating. That said, the lacquer version does look quite nice.

[@teamchiina7111]

Yeah I was kind of hoping to see his take on electroplating...

[@Ryan_Tidwell]

I second that. Would love to see an electroplated one. I guess it would be nickel? What else could you use?

[@dzookie1]

Ye EP with that conductive filament

[@QBiPs]

I was hoping he would dark wash the crevices like they do in model to make the metal plates pop.

[@dougbrown7150]

For fine grooves put unwaxed dental floss in them. Then prime. Enough will soak through to coat but when removed (before drying) will leave the detail

[@Iliketomakestuff]

Good call, thanks!

[@LiterallyMeRyanGosling-0]

@@Iliketomakestuff if the PETG is pretty easy to sand, shouldn’t it be PETS(Pretty Easy To Sand)

[@PewpewFiah]

Would be very interested in seeing how a resin print version of that stacks up with paints typically used for miniature painting. Across the 4 major paint lines you've got tons of Chrome, Metallic and Candy paint options, I'm sure you could get a hell of a result using those

[@scratchinjack608]

I don't see why a resin print results would be any different from MDF other than the sanding.

[@banjobill8420]

@@scratchinjack608 resin can get finer details since there isn't a nozzle to limit the minimum layer size.

[@yonallb]

Yes, this screams for resin.

[@MattMurphree]

"I don't like sand"... The perfect clip at the perfect time. Well done.

[@danielstellmon5330]

I love how you handle your commercials. The progress bar, the B-roll in the background, both really nice touches.

[@JamesEzell]

I was thinking the same thing. I usually skip the ads in videos as I already pay monthly for KZbin but this was didn't get in way of the content as much so I let it go.

[@Kaze919]

This is honestly one of the best ways to handle it. Well done

[@punishedprops]

Excellent work Bob! That Alclad is sooooo good! =D

[@hammerman2002]

Would love to see the rattlecan version after a wetsand and maybe a clear coat. I wonder if you knocked down the orange peel if it would more closely match the expensive one. Either way, great prop and great video!

[@JeffMarxWoodworking]

I've used the rattlecan paint he used pretty extensively in my props, and can say from my experience the base doesn't matter quite as much since it usually has a "foily" look as long as its sanded to around 220 grit.

[@GregsnBacon]

Clear coat on rattlecan metallic paint completely flattens it and removes the reflective properties - it would make it more of a shiny grey unfortunately. Would be cool to see rub n buff applied

[@ShayneHeluk]

Greg, youre right, but there are some metallic paints/brands that can look better with it. Like Rustoleum Gold looks better with a clear coat, while the silver flattens out. Its a trial and error thing. I actually made a video on my channel that deals with the optimized process I found when making an iron man helmet

[@GregsnBacon]

@@ShayneHeluk ooo nice I will check it out! I'm currently 3D printing a life size R2D2 and am in the process of painting the dome silver. I'm going with gloss black, metallic silver rattlecan, then am going to use silver leaf rub n buff as a finishing coat

[@ShayneHeluk]

@@GregsnBacon sounds good! Just remember, the key to any shiny mirror finish is to use a filler primer, sand it, filler, wet sand, then when it’s smooth, apply super thin coats until its covered. If you go too thin, it will orange peel and break apart like with autobody paint. Good luck!

[@thebat957]

I've gotten mirror finishes from rattle cans. Sand, primer, sand, paint, wet sand, paint again if you sanded too thin and primer shows through and then wet sand that down again. Then clear coat and wet sand that with a fairly high grit, then use micro mesh polishing pads up to a few thousand+ grit. Once it seems good, hand buff with car wax to get the maximum shine.

[@sjmaguirepdx]

Great video and cool to see the comparisons of the different techniques. One tip If I may... The Alclad chrome and others like it work best when you dial down the pressure on the airbrush. I go around 8-10 PSI. Also, when you apply over the gloss black you do not apply the chrome to 100% coverage. The goal is about 70-80 percent. The chrome gives it a metallic tint but it's the gloss black showing through that makes it look like real metal. Also - another tip... I find using flat black primer as the base coat followed by gloss clear works best. The clear gloss goes down smoother than the glass black so you get a more even surface and less chance for orange peal.

[@Rouverius]

I'm guessing the next step up from this might be nickel electroplating. From the videos I've seen, you can coat the part with a carbon based conductive layer. Then copper plate it and finally nickel plate on top of the copper. A lot of work but it would actually have a metal finish that you can then polish.

[@andriosz]

Or just go all out and use physical vapor deposition 🙂

[@Wordsnwood]

Love that fade-out logo at @14:36

[@danswindell5446]

Alclad seems to be much cheeper if you're in the UK. Their UK branch recently rebranded to HR Hobbies and 30ml (1 oz) bottles are £4.40. So if you're in the UK, you don't have to spend that much to get this great finish. Just remember to use a few very light layers when painting with it, you should barely see the first layer once you put it over the black. The heavier the coat the cloudier the finish is. With a really smooth prop and very light layers, you can get this stuff looking like a mirror.

[@Floyd1138]

Use graphite powder for a perfect metal finish

[@tomsamper4345]

Alclad has some great metalizer paints no doubt, but for my money, I haven't seen anything that beats the chrome finish of MOLOTOW, it's usually a paint pen kind of thing but you can get a refill cartridge and use it straight in the airbrush with no real diluting and it has an amazing chrome finish.

[@ajosepi1976]

THIS!

[@anotherfatgeek]

I started using Molotow when I saw Adam Savage use it on another prop replica and I haven't used anything else since.

[@brianbrians3157]

Yeah Molotow chrome out of an airbrush is God Tier

[@BrooklynQuarter]

Yep it's really unbelievable how good it looks.

[@dansaville3333]

MOLOTOW chome is basically liquid mirror.

[@coregeek]

THANK YOU for the Shoutout! Loving the results, Alclad metallics have been a go to for me for a long time. The final detonator looks great. Also it was to great to see the ILTMS gang at SiliCon. Glad we got to visit for a bit.

[@drakocarrion]

Using Molotow Liquid Chrome Ink pen refill ink through an airbrush is a really good option for chroming. It's pretty cheap & has a mirror finish that is excellent.

[@SerenadeURA]

I love Molotow's liquid chrome but the pens are 11 bucks a piece, I can't imagine refill ink for it being more cost effective than the bottle of Alclad chrome. Also in my experience if you so much as brush the stuff with your finger it loses its shine without applying some clear varnish over it, so there's a cost on top of just the paint.

[@drakocarrion]

@@SerenadeURA Bob said in this very video that Alclad is expensive. Molotow's ink refills aren't.

[@SerenadeURA]

@@drakocarrion I know he said it was expensive, but my question was is it cost effective vs just spending the money on the Alclad paint. I went and checked it just now - you pay 50 bucks according to him ($42 on amazon as of me posting this) for 4 oz of Alclad Chrome but you pay $28 (again, amazon as of this post) for approximately 1 oz of Molotow's ink refill. That's half the price of Alclad Chrome for 1/4 of the size. Absolutely nowhere near as cost effective. On the plus side, it's not lacquer if you're not comfortable working with it, but you'll still need to seal it with something so that your hands don't melt the paint off (presuming you're making a prop)

[@drakocarrion]

@@SerenadeURA The requirement of sealing paint applies to the alclad too. It's a moot factor.

[@SerenadeURA]

@@drakocarrion The sealing paint isn't the point here, the point is that you're spending 112 dollars on 4 oz of Molotow ink refills vs 50 dollars at maximum on a bottle of Alclad.

[@alanshmahlen21]

Spaz Stix mirror chrome, both the airbrush liquid and the rattle can, are pretty excellent. The 2oz bottle usually runs about $12-14 for the airbrush liquid. Same procedure: try to sand as smooth as possible, wet sand if you can, and try to get as glossy a black surface as possible. Dust on the Spaz Stix in a few coats, and then buff gently after it's pretty much dry. Any clear coat is going to dull it, so it's up to how durable you need it to be.

[@brandonrobinson1603]

My guy. That final result was amazing, seriously impressed

[@markuspotsch8194]

I usually have great results by painting it gloss black, then doing a graphite rub. I clear coat after wards and when it is almost dry I do a graphite rub again, this helps to lock in the graphite

[@bytesizedengineering]

"I don't like sand" at 10:46 broke me. I can't stop laughing!

[@forby_]

😄

[@Vikingwerk]

There is a product called rub ‘n buff by Amaco, it is essentially ultra fine metal powder in wax if I remember right. A lot of prop makers use it as a final step to bring up highlights and edges in things painted to look like metal. Really works well, I’ve seen Adam Savage use it on many of his prop builds. Comes in lots of different metal colors.

[@MarkusvonRentheFink]

I like Rub n buff a lot, too, it goes a long way and looks better the less you use. BUT - for a project like this? Large smooth areas? I wouldn't use it for that purpose.

[@Vikingwerk]

@@MarkusvonRentheFinkYou are right, not for large smooth areas. I think just a little on the detail lines where the ‘plates’ come together might be good though.

[@jessec8562]

Engineered Angler Lures has the best break down of spraying chrome on plastic I’ve seen

[@tamasbenko8303]

I didn't read all the comments maybe someone already recommended. There are huge amount of modell paints available online, model shops, toy shops. They are amazing for this type of projects, great quality, cheap, small amounts, some of them can go straight to the airbrush.

[@Vinpinto]

Metallic ABS printing with acetone vapor treating for glossy finish

[@ambsquared]

I’ve seen some videos where they spray the rattle can paint into a cup with a little thinner, then use it in an airbrush. Cheaper rattle can paint, but better application with the brush.

[@Gainn]

PVD gets used a lot for Hero props now. Powdercoating was popular for when you needed a lot of something. For 'steel' we use an inky blue base with some lighter highlights. Takes a lot less topcoat and you get more interaction from light sources.

[@garythree]

Amazing to see the difference an airbrush and some prep work can do! That last one looks so good! Cool demo of the techniques.

[@medienmond]

you can buy cheap mirror chrome for 11€ per 30ml. it is called "minute mirror effect" from cadence. with included spay head, but also easy to airbrush. just like the expensive stuff.

[@Dodo-bf3dm]

LOVE that 80's logo thingy at the end!!

[@hoguemr]

I've switched to resin printing for the past couple of years and oh man post processing is so much easier. SOOO much more detail, hardly any sanding, you should really give it a try!

[@forby_]

So true. We've got a project coming with a WHOLE LOT of resin printing 👀. Detail is fantastic.

[@FindecanorNotGmail]

The fumes from those though: Have good ventilation! They may not smell, but they are cancerous.

[@hoguemr]

@@FindecanorNotGmail yeah I only use the one at my work and it is on a giant factory floor with plenty of ventilation. I have one at home but I never use it because I'm worried about the fumes. But a resin vent hood station/cabinet would be a great build video for ILTMS

[@andrewlee6152]

You should try black gloss, then rubbing on graphite powder, using a soft cloth and buffing it afterwards. Produces a very nice metallic finish, much like a gun metal... and a tub of graphite powder is very inexpensive, compared to many of the metallic paints... and goes a very, very long way. But yeah, it's all in that sanding, filling, sanding, filling process. It's the part that takes the longest amount of time and has to be as close to perfect as you can get it. NEVER skimp on the sanding and if you really want a 3D print that is great fro sanding, go resin. Not only can many resin printers, produce way finer details and show far fewer layer lines, sanding s SO much easier and wit enough grits, yo can produce and almost polished finish, especially with wet sanding at the end Anyway once you've buffed and buffed the graphite finish, you will find that finger marks are easy polished/buffed out.. Not so easy on the painted versions and YES, you will want to wear gloves, and protect the work surfaces too, because graphite powder, being so incredibly fine, will get everywhere..Whatever you do, don't sneeze with tub nearby and lid open..

[@TheMNWolf]

It takes a hair-pulling amount of fine tuning, but if you can tune the printer to give you 0.04mm layers or smaller, it gets to the point you can hardly see the layer lines anymore. I'd definitely recommend upping the bed mesh setting to 7x7 for that.

[@ggmmiillff]

A final touch or even a separate option to sanding is Alcohol vapor smoothing but for large objects the length of time need will just make the piece soft small objects only

[@theultimatesteelshooter8610]

Absolutely! Take whatever time is needed to get to wet sanded to 600 with automotive primer

[@jasonarthurs3885]

Not certain if this product is still in the market, but in the 90s and Oughts, there was an incredible metallic paint line under the name Hammerite. It came in an array of metal finishes, but also had the amazing property of producing different finishes often seen on actual metals. Rolled on, the paint exhibited a hammered finish (hence the name), yet brushing it on resulted in a brushed metal look. The paints contained powdered metallic particles that would react and oxidize, etc. With an additional "wash" product, not only was it easy to create rusted plate steel, but it was unbelievably convincing, because it was actual rusted steel, or copper.

[@jasonarthurs3885]

@TEXT+①⑥⓪⑨③⑧⓪③②②⑧ Golly! I won? Holy Cow! Strange how your comment to me doesn't display the verified banner seen on comments/replies posted to others by ILTMS. This looks shady. Also, when clicked your avatar takes me to your channel; with zero content. Clearly, you are not affiliated with ILTMS. I wonder what Bob and the gang would think of this?

[@gingitsune]

Diamond needle files are great for sanding and cleaning up small grooves.

[@gregboyer3585]

That $50 paint reminds me of the silver paint that were in the paint kits for model cars back in the 1950’s and 60’s we used straight out of the little bottle no sanding no priming with a small brush!

[@parallaxgames]

I love the air brushing section of this video but I want to add one thing. Please wear your respirator while you do that.

[@FindecanorNotGmail]

To help make it really pop, and sell the idea that it's metal, you could: • Apply slightly different finishes to different surfaces. Real-world "full steel" objects are often made from different alloys, heat-treated and surface-treated differently. • "Weather" it with a wash of black acrylic. Does not just make it look more "real-world" but also increase the contrast, making it appear shinier. Plus, it can help hide mistakes!

[@DauntlessDefender214]

I don’t think that I have ever commented about a sponsor read before but I REALLY appreciated the Picture in Picture. I could watch you doing something that didn’t need narration and listen to your pitch for Simply Safe, I never thought about skipping. Wish everyone did it this way. Thanks for thinking of us👍

[@LivingLambeaux]

I think this is the first time I've ever seen a 3D printing video trying several different options. Awesome job!

[@offearth3d]

From someone who paints props for a living the only thing I would have done differently on the “expensive” version is to hit your gloss black with a 2K clear and also sealing your Chrome with 2K clear as well. Fantastic work!!!

[@OverlandTrailer]

"I don't like sand" - LOL.

[@theultimatesteelshooter8610]

#1. With a Prusa there is no need to print larger than .15mm. .2mm just makes for a lot more work. #2. Rustoleum filler primer and wetsand to 320 then Dupicolor primer and wet sand to 600. Next 3 coats dupicolor gloss black and wetsand to 600. Next 3 coats of clear gloss. Then airbrush with Alclad. That’s how we do Mandalorian armor

[@DconBlueZ]

Thanks for the video, always enjoy watching!

[@apollolux]

I learned early on in my own DIY endeavors that wet-sanding makes a HUGE difference when trying to obtain a mirror finish from acrylic or lacquer paints, even if they're not metallic colored. Admittedly, it's been a while since I've personally done a project where I painted something to a smooth mirror finish, but the process was very repeatable even with basic rattlecan paints and wet/dry sandpaper from 200 to 1500 or even 2000 grit if you have, and maybe some clear coat and wax to seal afterwards if you wanted to be extra cautious.

[@FindecanorNotGmail]

Alclad has a reputation of rubbing off more easily than rattle-can paint does, so it definitely is better for the display cabinet than the convention floor. My go-to solution these days though is Rub'n Buff - a metal-infused wax: Smear on and buff it: The more you buff it the shinier it gets.

[@classicjazztbone]

The Adam Savage method!

[@MarkusvonRentheFink]

That is why Alclad recommends using their Aquaclear to seal off the meatalic coating.

[@M4st3r0fN0n3]

Alternately. Spray paint a high quality gloss black, then use silver rub n buff over the surface. Its about 6 or so bucks per tube and one tube lasts a long time. Rub it on, buff it off, polish with a soft cloth and done

[@KidHaru]

You can actually use metal card scrapers (the wood working tool) and paint scrapers to remove layer lines in seconds rather than minutes and hours. I tried it expecting to destroy my prop only to fully sand a khopesh in 3 minutes. Additionally, you can up the metallic look on things if you buff it with graphite powder.

[@froshouseable]

I watched the video where the gentleman used acetone vapor to smooth out his project rather than sanding it seemed to work pretty well.

[@xxPenjoxx]

Your channel has some of the best subtitles I've ever seen. As someone who struggles to hear, I have subtitles on all the time and yours are 💯 The karaoke style of them coming up when you are actually speaking makes a world of difference to me so I just had to say thank you 👍

[@SouthernStyleDIY]

That looks so cool! Would have made Jabba himself rethink his negotiation tactics. Love the comparison of the different efforts as well.

[@ianjensen3890]

This summer I had gotten on a kick of designing and 3D printing prop lightsabers. My first draft one that I completed had no sanding and was just painted without primer, and it looked awful. Granted, I knew it was just a draft to see if fits worked, but I haven't been able to get up the courage to print a finer detail one and put the time into sanding each little detail, let alone know how to go about priming and painting. This video is a god send, and I can't wait to take the knowledge forward into my own work. Thank you, keep up the content, we all love it!🤩

[@BGsModelWorkshop]

Awesome stuff guys. As a scale model car builder, Alclad is sort of the bench mark for chrome paint. The Aqua Gloss sealer is pretty cool and easy to use as well.

[@Tryel]

Some (subtle) panel lining and wreathing would make that last one look even better!

[@blizatrex]

the chrome paint you used on version 2 can look nearly as good as the alclad with the gloss black base and care you gave version 3.The painted versions would get some depth and realism with a polish of graphite powder.

[@Tony-nl6pf]

You should try smoothing out the print only one with acetone or other solvents depending on what it's printed with. It gets rid of layer lines and makes it extra shiny.

[@jowizardhealey9285]

My solution is buy a live grenade, wire in some blinking lights for accuracy to source material, then put the whole thing inside a custom thermal detonator shell made of real metal. Simple, but effective. Hope this helps.

[@Flako-dd]

This is super applicable for the smarthome and IoT community as well, i can use this process to make a nice wall mountable case for my touch panels. Thanks Bob!

[@kennykd97]

Metallic marker pen refill I've seen videos using that and it looks awesome.

[@AdamMclardy]

Just as I’m looking to paint a full size Bolter! Good timing

[@dr.rotwang]

If you are going to properly sand/fill/surface 3d printed parts or any prop and especially model parts get your hands on some Nitro-Stan Red Putty 9001. Its an auto body putty and is hands down the best thing I have ever found for filling cracks/textures and sanding a mirror finish. It is a go to in my model shop especially when we are making masters like for resin casting and need a perfect surface.

[@FrugalShave]

Wood PLA is also a very sand-able filament that makes like much easier for something like this that will be finished post print. But resin printers would be the real way to go for things that fit in the print volume or can be effectively pieced out and printed.

[@MW2pawner123]

I’ve started using 3D resin that’s UV cured to hide layer lines, sand it down works great!

[@jonwills1957]

I use Tamiya modeling putty to fill my prints. Sands great and takes paint well.

[@Derived_One]

One thing that nobody ever talks about, metal leaf... Yes, it does work. Someone else did mention it down in the comments; so, I'll add using car vinyl wrap.

[@Oscar-rv8qq]

I found wet sanding is a much better way to rid the layer lines it smoothens better then dry sanding with less effort

[@jeffdukeman7031]

I used the gloss black undercoat and rub on graphite for my Mandalorian armor. It didn’t come out quite as shiny for film accurate, but for cosplay it worked great.

[@theultimatesteelshooter8610]

There is another method we use making beskar armor … graphite. Process is too complex to discuss here but it’s not expensive and does not require any airbrush skills. Rattle can primer and clear coat is all the skill you need …

[@lauraandedwardcannon8861]

For that prop you could probably use that aluminum tape. I have had good success using that on smaller pieces, you just need to take a little time cutting it and hiding the seams.

[@Waltkat]

What a cool project. I think I'll either resin print it or FDM with ABS or ASA so that I can vapor smooth it.

[@babbagebrassworks4278]

Some say Nail polish chrome resin is the best for shiny metal. Would be interesting to try them all again with the acetone vapour treatment to remove the lines.

[@ALiveGeek]

A cheaper alternative I’ve used on a Mando helmet was Graphite power. $20 gets you a lifetime supply and it goes on over glass black similar to rub and buff.

[@frankmthompson]

I'm curious. Could you take that metal infused filament, sand it and then polish it back up to a shine? Another option is to print, sand, finish to a good finish. Then mold it and either cast it out of metal or do cold casting. Either way, that chrome paint one came out beautiful! I agree with the person who said weathering it will increase the metallic look. Esp. with star wars props this works well because most things are "dirty" anyways.

[@androiduberalles]

Might be worth trying abs and do a acetone vaporsmoothing to it before sanding/painting.

[@ljg6979]

Thanks for the effort. This really helped remind me why I need an air brush kit...

[@Vinnero0]

To avoid the orange peel, I put the rattle can in warm water for a bit. I get very good results that way.

[@FullStackFool]

Adding a dark wash for the low areas, or rust patches, would take both the painted versions to the next level of realism.

[@siob5108]

use the paint from a molotow liquid chrome marker..... the marker itself costs around 6 dollars, the refill bottle around 20 👍. does a mirror shine over glossy black, fantastic results.... but it needs to dry at least 48 hours.

[@MartinDubuque]

Reckon you could get a result similar to Alclad with graphite powder.

[@kingyames]

The mirror paint and maletow( if I spelled it correctly) sprayed through airbrush are only paints to really give a super reflective surface. Alclad is crap. Problem with metallic finishes is the clear coats dull it back down

[@alvaroampudia4382]

an interesting experiment would be to take some paint out of the spray can, and put it in the paint brush to apply it.... to see how much of a difference is the paint quality and how much is for how it is applied...

[@Christopher_Gibbons]

You can skip at least half of the sanding if you paint on 3d print resin and cure it. You get a near perfect surface.

[@IVIuggle]

If you have a good local model shop, you may be able to find smaller bottles of Alclad Chrome for a much more reasonable price. And a little goes a long way!

[@kevinm3751]

Instead of all the sanding here is a great tip! Get some UV resin and a UV light and paint it on your print and cure it and then of course sand but trust me, the finish will be far smoother with a ton less sanding. Plus it makes the print much stronger! When using Alclad consider getting their thinner, I swear by their paints and klear kite finishes and thinning it down does wonders for the layup.

[@Iliketomakestuff]

Nice, thanks for the tip!

[@atsnickeri]

Great looking prop! The final step it weathering things that look dirty or used look more realistic. Some oil paints, black and browns will make your props feel like they have been carried around and used.

[@hansiejansevanrensburg291]

I will love to see you and Adam Savage working together on a project.

[@anthonybrown8850]

Alclad is great, I made a full mandalorian cosplay suit using it

[@youshaqureshi3441]

You can get super smooth prints if you put it in a chamber with Acetone vapor. Saves time on sanding. Idk how/what it'll look like with the finer details. But I'd love to see your take on it.

[@kalleballex]

I miss a version done with spraypaint+graphite powder brushing. Its dirt cheap and looks awesome every time.

[@FranklyWry]

Excellent on all fronts: Content, organization, presentation, and delivery, clearly articulated and easily understood. Thanks.

[@RaccoonHenry]

"I don't like sand.." XD

[@GeoffreyToday]

Respirator! Especially when painting with lacquer!

[@ConnorHolland]

My favourite method is rubbing graphite powder over a gloss black base, a small pinch goes a long way so is very cheap too

[@Cosanplayprops]

Using DFM Blue Curved Cabinet Scraper Cards, will save you hours of sanding. Bill Eddie who did the Ghostbusters props uses this on his prints. I've been using them and have had great results. Also for smoothing you can try spot putty an Acetone.

[@murphymmc]

Funny thing, shiny surfaces for things that go boom are overrated. The prop from metallic filament looked just fine. Print layers just add to the fragmentation concept. If you like shiny, do shiny. Consider powder coating the metallic filament. A chrome powder coat would be pretty convincing. If the surface will hold a static charge, you can powder coat.

[@SianaGearz]

It's actually fairly affordable to nickel plate a prop. However it's somewhat finicky and just daunting to even consider until you actually do it and sort out the issues, but i would say it looks a lot more convincing than any spray paint. Might be worth the investment, i suggest checking it out. I'm not that far yet myself, i have nickel plated a bunch of things, brass and steel items for technical reasons, but i didn't particularly care about how they were going to look (though i did experiment, and i really like the look that can be achieved), and i never did conductive painting on plastics to prepare them for nickel plating. You can zinc plate yourself as well, but the drawback is that it looks like zinc, while nickel looks pretty awesome. Something to keep in mind though that nickel is considered potentially toxic in contact with skin, apparently a bunch of people have allergic sensitisation to it from contact with low quality stainless jewelry. But for something to put into your display case, it's literally perfect. Another way to achieve a chrome look is silver with Tollens process, but it's difficult to achieve this on the first surface, the surface is fragile, and protecting it with clear spray dulls the look. A possibility to keep in mind is maybe just making the part conductive and then sending it off to get chromed professionally with real chrome, there are shops that do this for automotive restoration. I don't know whether someone has tried that, whether they'll even accept a plastic part as they normally work with metal ones.

[@dommakesstuff5339]

Looks great Bob! Thanks for the information. I will be using this for future projects.

[@code-fox]

It would be really interesting to see what would happen if you sand the metallic filament smooth, and then add a satin clear coat over the top.

[@brabus4]

Bob, you've definitely nailed integrating the sponsor into your videos. Much better than some other channels. 👍