Indexable parting blade and dbit grinding

[@ROBRENZ]

Excellent video Stefan! Lots of great nuggets in this. ATB, Robin

[@roippi3985]

I mean I would totally watch your “Stefan drills a hole” series too

[@fredgenius]

I would watch 'Stefan makes toast' lol!

[@ulwur]

The 12-part series. With extended cuts for the partreons !

[@bfx8185]

First part Stefan will grind his own drill bit :)

[@Ale_Lab]

Totally!

[@PeregrineBF]

Applied Science's DIY EDM video is basically "Ben drills a hole in everything conductive he can find". I'd love to see what Stefan would get up to with such a setup.

[@ehamster]

“Don’t tell me about the import holders, I won’t buy from importers”. Also Stefan “let’s go to the Chinese D-bit grinder”. It’s always best to have flexible standards.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Missspoke there: I dont buy from that particular importer. I dont have problems with import goods at all.

[@greengohm]

"These are my standards. If you don't like them, I have other" :)

[@EmmaRitson]

@@StefanGotteswinter you're way too diplomatic. I was thinking about this when you said it. figured I knew which importer.

[@2lefThumbs]

@@StefanGotteswinter also diplomatic about the brand of d-bit grinder that you have? 😉

[@sblack48]

He has many import tools, including his lathe until lately.

[@SamEEE12]

I am a simple man, I see a Stefan Gotteswinter video; I smash the like button.

[@iTeerRex]

The D-bit grinder is such a versatile tool, almost as important as the lathe and the milling machines. Another great video, thanks Stefan.

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Stefan, I always like the way you explain things, very easy to understand and useful information, please keep the videos coming, I need to learn more, thanks for taking the time to do this, much appreciated, take care, Cheers Matty

[@erikisberg3886]

I rewatched this video, again lots of good advice in here. I have used the same 2mm GTN2 inserts for decades, the type I use are good for aluminum to stainless up to about 40mm. I think they are ISCAR and seem to last forever for my prototype work. I picked up the regrinding insert idea in another video from Stefan, kicked my self for not thinking of that before.... I also bought 2 of the Chinese D-bit grinders 2 years ago, exactly the same, one for myself and one for one of my customers. Mine are C5 since I have all sorts of C5 collets for other machines. I agree the workhead is a bit clumsier but it has not been an issue for me. Perhaps I have been lucky, but mine are tight and hold tolerances well. Only issue was that I had to fix the workhead C5 clamping mechanism which tended to bind, but that was easy. One tip is to buy a 100mm CBN 150 cupwheel for HSS etc, about 30 euros from China. Cuts faster in steel and You dont get all that dust or the comment all the time not to use diamond on steel... which by the way works pretty well with the very inexpensive diamond wheels.

[@jeffanderson1653]

You have taken your cutter grinder to new heights. I would love to have one but I just can’t justify the expense for a hobby guy. I always enjoy these videos. I learned today more about those inserts. Thank you for posting.

[@wuddadid]

I think I've just found my favourite machining channel. I've watched this video from start to finish and I am not bored at all. I don't actually have any machining tools (yet) but I love learning about them and the techniques and explanations in this video are great and well-delivered. A lot of other channels try too hard to be funny ALL the time and it just gets old and they tiresome.

[@chrisstephens6673]

This one and The Renz are in competion to be the two best, plus Joe Pie of course and don't forget Mr Crispin. Most others fall by the wayside in comparison for teaching, rather than just showing.

[@wuddadid]

@@chrisstephens6673 Thanks for showing me these guys. Just subbed to them!

[@chrisstephens6673]

@@wuddadid you are welcome, four of the best. There are others but youtube will eventually recommend ones they think will interest you. I have a channel too but nowhere near their league but some find it of interest. (I hope)

[@wuddadid]

@@chrisstephens6673 Well I subbed to you just now so I'll be looking forward to see some uploads! RENZ's channel is INSANE btw. Such precision.

[@chrisstephens6673]

@@wuddadid i thought you would like Robins channel, who wouldn't? Thanks for the sub, i hope i dont disappoint too much.

[@brucewilliams6292]

Excellent work. I have learned so much from watching these past few years. You have made me a much better home machinist. Thank you as always.

[@lucwybo]

I had never sharpened a D-bit before and after watching your video, I went into the workshop and managed to make a D-bit after 20 minutes for a 30 ° dovetail on 6mm carbide end mill. Nice video with the correct explanation, Thanks

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Nice use of the Deckal grinder. A very handy tool.

[@captcarlos]

Thank you again Stephan! Half way through this video I rushed out and bought a 1/2 in coolant hose to make that vacuum clamping/positioning set up. You and Robin have this and that's good enough for me, much better than bailing wire I'm currently using! Any videos on the D Bit or grinding in general will be very appreciated.

[@dalejones4186]

Hi Stephan. The way you teach and your expertise is exactly why I enjoy helping sponsor your channel. Thank you for sharing.

[@ranke]

I just watch your videos for relaxation and always love them! Being more of a wood and stone man I’m always fascinated by the precision you achieve! Thanks for the video!!!

[@gregsmith2262]

I have been pondering how to do exactly the same thing for months now thank you kind sir for solving that problem.

[@adhawk5632]

I just bought a 100mm diamond wheel, 180 grit for the mill. I want to put some edges on some inserts. Ive got a couple of small machine vises and pocket angle blocks and a 12 x 6 mag chuck. Ill wipe dry and cover the mill with a bib of sorts. Vacuum and respirator mandatory. The X axis is 5um dro, is that fine enough down steps? And do you have any other advice that might help. Im all new to this and self taught hobbist, hoping get some small jobs. Were all lucky to have KZbin mentors like yourself, Robin and dozens more machinists. Ive been enjoying and learning from these older vids, Robin's older ones too. So much wisdom that myself and others would never have access to. Thank you👍👌🇦🇺 Congratulations on the upcoming 100K subscribers mark, thats a huge achievement in itself. Lots of filming and editing.💥🥳

[@fredgenius]

Excellent video, many thanks for your time, and patience. Nice to see the d-bit grinder in use, and the entire project from start to finish.

[@robertburns2415]

As to the negative rake on the front of the insert, it must be remembered what holds the insert into the holder. That is the pressure that pushes against the insert as it cuts. If the tool is below the center line of the part the cut will invariably want to pull the insert out of the tool. The negative rake prevents that from happening.

[@artmckay6704]

Thank you for the huge block of extra work that goes into every video! Your efforts are very instructive and very much appreciated! Thanks! :)

[@lesthompson5907]

very good . i agree & often cut my larger dovetail's in the same way to making tool holders . making an inexpensive dovetail cuter . using HSS steel . Well-done it can de done by hand solong as you have a flat centre line. i often grind them by hand as i have not a fancy grinding tool like yours . I'm Gallus Ha - ha well - done son . les England a bite rough & redy up to your stranded i know , But you nailed it i liked the subject

[@dan4653]

Just received a similar tool grinder, so it was nice to see a tool grinding video. Thanks!

[@bobengelhardt856]

What's that on the left side of the grinding wheel at 27:36? Ummm? Just how did that happen?

[@twoprop8734]

Great detail and I like they that you include your reasoning. I learned a lot from this video.

[@drevil4454]

Stehan can you please do a video on mill cutters? When to use carbide and on what material and when to use HSS and on what material, etc. etc. Also the amount of flutes vs material types etc, etc.

[@jonsworkshop]

Nicely done Stefan, I definitely need a D bit grinder, very useful. "I need a pointier pointer," comment of the episode. Keep up the great work. Cheers, Jon

[@Veektohr]

No better way to start the weekend than with a cup of coffee and some Stefan Gotteswinter.

[@roberthkack9633]

Thank you for this video! I have the same tool holder for my Multifix and now i know what to do with it instead of having it in an drawer put away and not be able to use it. BR Roberth

[@orestkoroluk6430]

I believe that the clamping arrangement for the parting blade will work well. Someone thought about the design and upon reflection I can see the logic. The cutting forces at the cutting edge force the tip downwards. The clamping "gib" pulls up on the lower edge of the blade providing fullest support nearest the cut. The top edge of the dovetail will ensure that the blade is held with a stabilizing reaction like a see-saw. It appears to be a three point support system that inherently stable, much like a milking stool. It would be interesting to hear how well this arrangement works for you once you have had a chance to use it for while. You will always have the option of adding some screws to the top edge to change it to a more common configuration.

[@joopm7718]

Nice video I already learned how to make a 1 cutting milling cutter

[@2lefThumbs]

I've got a chinese d-bit grinder and hadn't realised the Zero was adjustible nor that the 90° ring rotated! I hope the manufacturer copied those two features from Deckel, eye-balling "parallel" and mentally adding a slight offset to my positions has been frustrating me. Great tutorial👍👍

[@EmmaRitson]

haha exactly. i knew there was a knob sticking out. didn't have a clue what it did

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Now I need to pop into my workshop to see if my version of the Universal Cutter Grinder has that magic knob! 😂

[@alansmith8764]

Not all of the many variants have this feature.

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

@@alansmith8764 Indeed, as I discovered today, sadly mine doesn’t have this feature!

[@larryschweitzer4904]

I discovered that feature by pure accident. I had taken the machine apart to fix something else. Wish there was a good manual for these machines. The online Deckel one doesn't cover everything.

[@Andrew_Fernie]

Stefan drills a hole👍 . Stefan grinds another D-Bit 🥱. Stefan mills a 1.35mm 15º dovetail to a sliding fit 💥 Now you're talking ! Nice work Sir.

[@5tr41ghtGuy]

I can see it doesn't take long for the D-bit grinder to pay for itself when it is used to repurpose broken cutters. Nice video, and thanks for sharing!

[@piavigdalsgaard2230]

its a good size Garant... 2.2 .. is usefull ... on the swiss lathes we always used 3.00 E ... IC 328 ISCARS 3.00 0.4 radius and the E ... alot ( they are excelent for turning backside of parts before cut off to sub spindle. I had them go 3500 with .15 in feed sometimes. ( pure oil with rocol RTD into the cut oil ) .. what a smoke bath .... but worked.

[@outsidescrewball]

Great video..discussion/demonstration/build....thanks for your time sharing...atb

[@rickpalechuk4411]

Nice to see you giving the holder new life. Maybe you can do a follow up showing modification to the insert to give a positive grind, and the resulting difference in feed force compared to the standard negative grind. As always, thanks for sharing Cheers

[@masterbroadcaster]

"I'll be back..." LOL very nice content! can watch this stuff for hours...

[@bcbloc02]

Funny you commented I was thinking myself the next one of those blades you get won’t fit that tight precision slot. 😂

[@rprichard8452]

The next blade might be too big... that’s my luck!

[@molnaromatic]

The sharpnes of the carbide insert is an interesting thing. In this csae the recognisable radius is a sharp (sharp enough) edge because of the momentum of parting occurs in the structure of a material. Therefore if you grind the insert you risk it to arrive the point when more sharpness produces more heat or chiping of an insert.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Nice project, should work great. Nice close up of the insert.

[@drevil4454]

Man that's a nice way repurpose tools!! Hey you even get a ruler on your parting blade😆

[@mftmachining]

Stefan, at 12.10 min is that a Karnasch Mill ?

[@googleuser859]

Very informative and entertaining as always, thank you.

[@rprichard8452]

Very well done. I enjoyed your time. Thank you

[@piavigdalsgaard2230]

nice milling. nice grinding. and nice handwerk. 5 stars. Deutsche qualitæt

[@gregfeneis609]

Stay safe too Stefon. Thanks✌️

[@brianmckenzie1739]

Was your Multifix toolholder hardened through out - or just case hardened? At 20:26 re diamond wheel grit size, you say, "the smaller the number, the finer the grit". Isn't it the other way i.e. 600 grit wheel is much finer than your 125 grit wheel?

[@michaelpiotrowicz6100]

Did you need to cut a 15 degree angle in the little clamping block? Perhaps not with such a good fit. I would love to have seen you compare the geometry of the steel cutting insert with the aluminium and plastic cutting insert. Thanks as always. M.

[@David-Rule]

Stefan, do you set that tool above center to compensate for everything flexing? Or how do you set it? On my 1943 South Bend 9-A I set it above center.

[@lrakschmidt2880]

Why did you use this grinder instead of the Deckel? Just want to follow what you are thinking.. great video.

[@tomaszkazmierczak7327]

Stefan, when one world like to buy Chinese clone of this grinder - what one should look at? I found one with 5C collet dos it matter what type of collets it uses?

[@EmmaRitson]

thanks. I learnt a lot as always. this is pretty topical here. same problems as you have.

[@mpetersen6]

Beats having to grind the cutting clearance and back relief by hand. I used to have to make my own counter bores from coredrills and twist drills on occasion with a surface grinder and a Spin DeX. They worked though.

[@tmurray1972]

Excellent content.💯 The Arnold Schwarzenegger of machining, and yes you’ll be back.🇩🇪🇺🇸🤩

[@EngineeringSpareTime]

Nice on! I got a 3mm parting tool from garant. Parting of C45 with it on my Wabeco D6000 is a nightmare. I should try a 2mm blade and the solid tool post helps a lot as well - doesn’ it? When I turned the spindle shaft for my DIY CNC from 42CrMo4 it went well, but like you said parting off is a hole different story..

[@matttradie1341]

Waste nothing. Stephan, how do you keep the diamond wheel clean? I’ve bought one and have been using it to sharpen TCT teeth, but it appears to be either getting dull or it’s clogged.

[@tombellus8986]

good video showing the grinding of the cutter. thanks

[@tomaszkazmierczak7327]

Have you seen grinding wheels adapters with a balancing mechanism? This is what I have originally in my dbit grinder and I wonder if it makes sense to copy this mechanism when making additional adapters - what do you think?

[@adrianu5481]

Stefan, you're an artist!

[@horkinyorkin]

that looks like a new vise on your mill ?

[@johngunn7087]

Thanks, Stefan. Excellent content, as usual.

[@howder1951]

Good video Stefan, lots of curious details for me to consider. You also generated an awful lot of comments, it took almost as long to read them as the video itself. Cheers and my regards!

[@argee55]

Another great video. Excellent close ups.

[@carlhitchon1009]

Stefan, great video as usual. I wonder why the manufacturer didn't put the clamping shoe right at the front of the holder?

[@cornnatron3030]

weird question maybe but is the grit for diamond wheels differently designated than for example sand paper and regular grinding stones as you mentioned the smaller the number the finer the grit but to my knowledge for sand paper or regular grinding stones its the other way around the higher the number the finer the paper or grinding stone and the nicer the finish.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Yes. Theres different grit scales. Here, for all of your confusion, some added confusion: www.fine-tools.com/G10019.html

[@cornnatron3030]

@@StefanGotteswinter thats good to know about the different scales , even though the sheet you supplied is abracadabra to me. If i would need proper stone/diamond advise as a hobbist i drop by the local tool grinding shop who are always willing to educate to some extend. But thanks for thr info anyways

[@MrHuntnfish]

I have loved Stefan's classes for years, I wish he would move to New Zealand, its safer, and marry a Kiwi girl, if nothing else just to lift the "Gene Pool". Thank you for taking the time Stefan.

[@jefflastofka9289]

I'd like to get one of those Holzmann grinders. Living in SouthWestern USA and looking for a source on the web. Haven't found it yet. I wonder how the Shars grinder compares, or other options. Maybe Stefan could put together a purchase option on some of the tools he likes for those of us who follow him and make a little commission on the side for his efforts. I recently bought some tool steel TIG rod after seeing it on a TOT video and it was funny talking to the vendor - they were buried with requests as a result of the video:-) Keep up the great work Stefan. We really enjoy it and learn a lot.

[@markassink8552]

Robin renzetti also has an import d bit grinder. Guess they all come from the same factory, but with different brands and colours

[@jefflastofka9289]

@@markassink8552 Good point. I had just started watching his video when you replied. The Shars might be a good choice here in the US where 5C collets are standard, and Robin has nice info on improvements. Maybe they're not the same factory. Maybe they take each others' products and copy the castings:-) I'd be happy with a machine that's just OK, and then tweaking some things here and there over time as part of the hobby.

[@kurtg5645]

I love Engelbert Strauss workwear. They have some really really good trousers.

[@billchiasson2019]

That was a great video on thinking outside of the box!! Nice job!.

[@sirstan808]

Brilliant and informative as usual. Keep up the great work! Love it.

[@torerlendfgri2514]

Thanks Stefan. I really enjoyed this piece.

[@mikemichelizzi2023]

Thanks for the grinder demonstration!

[@buckinthetree1233]

I love that style insert for parting and grooving but its also the most expensive insert I use. I bought some a couple of months ago, $150 for a box of 10.

[@Gottenhimfella]

You don't need to pay retail (or trade) - if you save a search on eBay they come up pretty frequently for not much more than half that price. Just make sure you stick with a brand you're happy with.

[@buckinthetree1233]

@@Gottenhimfella Thank you for the advice. Ebay is my go to for carbide inserts. I spent some time searching and had a lot of trouble finding them. I haven't tried saving a search though. Currently I'm operating with the right hand parting insert. I would like the left and center parting inserts as well.

[@karlmansson8319]

Does anyone know of a good and cheap (contradiction in terms?) source of those grinding wheel mounts? I can only find pieces for 80 euros and above...

[@lohikarhu734]

only a Multifix is a Multifix ;-) Howdy Stefan, hope you are doing well? Planning to get my LLPV running again, soon(ish), and try out some threading!

[@markdavies8037]

I am thinking of buying a small hobby lathe. Does anyone have suggestions please?

[@sblack48]

Did you put a dovetail on the clamp itself? Great video.

[@fredgenius]

New milling vice? I recently bought one very similar (Tuscan MV-100) - I'd be interested in hearing why you chose yours, and if you're happy with it...

[@tomthumb3085]

Hi Stefan. I’ve never seen the value of that type of quick release tool holder as, by definition, clamping from the bottom will invariably lift the tool slightly, increasing the “stick-out” which is the last thing you want on a parting tool. Great video thanks.

[@bigbird2100]

Great video Stefan 👍 The angle 15° machined into holder would tweaking a degree or too create a greater holding grip just a discussion of interest 😉

[@Gottenhimfella]

It would create indentations in the less-hard item, in time. It is probably preferable to err on too steep, but in minutes of arc, not whole degrees. On a longer taper, though; on a short one like this, I personally feel there's little point

[@TheTacktishion]

interesting topic. as always great camera shots....!

[@jahcymor9891]

1) should you not be conventional mllng in hardened material? 2) so where do you get your multifix stuff?

[@Gottenhimfella]

The cutter will go blunt immediately if you conventional-mill very hard material.This is because the chip thickness will start from zero and increases gradually at the start of each tooth's action, and this will just round over the cutting edge.The tooth needs to smack a decent distance back from the previous tooth's cut as happens with climb milling; once a fracture is initiated by this shock loading of the relatively brittle metal, the fracture runs ahead of the tool tip and the very tip of the cutting edge no longer touches the material as the cut progresses and the chip thins. The limiting factor on tool life with climbing in this way is eventual chipping of the edge (because carbide or ceramic or CBN is also brittle), whereas with conventional milling it is likely that the edge will immediately be dulled.

[@jahcymor9891]

@@Gottenhimfella i could swear i said "case hardened". then the cutting edge would see softer material, right? i dont suppose the holders are through hardened, or are they?

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@jahcymor9891 They won't be thru hardened. So you make a good point. If the case depth is less than the depth of cut, that is, which in this case is hardly likely, but if it was, conventional milling could have the edge entering into the soft core material and rupturing the hardened layer from underneath, which would (I reckon) give the tool edge a better chance of holding up. Whenever I've machined QC toolholders the case has been very hard (too hard for carbide, needed ceramic) AND very deep.

[@mrechbreger]

Ich parte üblicherweise mit ner kleinen Drehmaschine und nem NC Programm und nem billigen leicht geschliffenem China Carbide Einsatz (vgl. mit Korloy Einsätzen sind die relativ weich). Per Hand parten hab ich bei meiner Maschine schon lang aufgegeben, viel zu aufwändig und meine Maschine ist nicht stabil genug, auch ist die Motorsteuerung nicht gut genug. Aber ich komme damit genau dort hin wo ich will bzw. mir vorstelle.

[@hanswurscht327]

Calibrator is back!

[@12345NoNamesLeft]

I appreciate it when you give us the inch translations.

[@perw12345]

The googly eyes.... Milly McMillface

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Blame my girlfriend 😂🤣

[@geoffreyarchibald2680]

Vibration indicators.

[@jimurrata6785]

Crossover with Grady from Practical Engineering channel. 😀

[@TheUncleRuckus]

Great video as always thanks for uploading 👍👍

[@ianjefferson9518]

Sigh. I think I might be another Stefan groupie. Thanks for another great video. I'm painfully aware of how much effort these take so I shall also thank you for your lighter updates on Instagram. I'm curious about your change from from a screw-less vice to a more traditional (to me anyway) screw type vice on your Mill. Why did you switch? I bought my first screwless vice after several of your descriptions of them and I may buy a couple more imports for similar reasons you did e.g. long thing workholding jigs etc. I don't think I will tire soon on any of your grinding topics. I have made several cutting tools out of drill rod over the years and many even work :-) All the finishing was by hand with a stone or offhand on a bench grinder though. Every video on grinding I think I catch something new.

[@rubdr1]

Is there a way to create cutting tools more precise then freehand grinding, but without a dbit grinder? For example, I want te create a 4mm internal keyway cutter for my shaper, out of a piece of 12mm hss (square). The problems I get is it not getting nicely on the centerline. (2mm on either side)

[@zumbazumba1]

Not without some kind of jig ,and it also depends on what kind of equipment you have.What you describe should have geometry of a parting blade (with less relief angle ,since its a shaper i wouldnt put more than 2-3°)just flipped 90°. 4mm width is tricky to free hand since its a small measurement. IF you have lathe or a milling machine and a diamond wheel /cup wheel you could grind said keyway cutter by using lathe tool post /milling machine vice . Both machines would requier to make arbor for mounting such grinding wheel but that is a easy project if you have lathe. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6aTY4WCpdaSgZI kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpPYiaaDhdaCeK8 -mount diamond wheel like he did but use the toolpost of a lathe to get correct angle and width you want then hand grind a relief angles. If all you have is a bench grinder then upgrade a tool rest on it with a extra L channel iron with 2 screws that will allow you to guide precisely your hss tool ,like the miter attachment for table saws those dead tree corpse butchers use also known as woodworkers. Hope i gave you some idea.

[@bigwave_dave8468]

I know its a bit of a late comment but I dont understand why the blade holder was built to clamp the blade from the bottom instead of the top. It seems backwards to me given the tool pressure pushing on clamping jaw instead of pressure being distributed along the whole length of the holder's lower edge if it were built inverted from how it is.

[@richardbradley961]

THANK YOU AGEN STEFAN, VERRY INTERSTING. REGARDS RICHARD.

[@markdavies8037]

Stefan i am a new viewer to your channel. Im loving the content and am wondering if you are living in germany or the states or wherever? Your vocabulary is excellent. All the best.

[@leonardocorti1919]

How's the Gerardi vise?

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I like it a lot

[@sblack48]

I’m not familiar with that vise. It looks awesome. So I went to msc direct and priced it. When I regained consciousness.... I noticed a footnote that said “this product contains nickel which in the state of California is known to cause cancer”. So Stephan I think I should take that vise off your hands before something bad happens to you. This community needs you and it doesn’t really need me.

[@leonardocorti1919]

@@sblack48 how nice of you It's incredible that for the state of California almost every substance known to man causes cancer

[@sblack48]

@@leonardocorti1919 I would even pay postage to Montreal. That's just the kinda guy I am! You know at first glance $1000 for a vice seems nutty, but for a company doing precision work it is a no brainer and even for a serious hobbiest, if you can't hold things straight and true you're done. If you do stuff where you have to hold 10ths it's probably your most important tool and you buy it once and really hope you don't run an endmill into it. I see why Stephane has sheet metal covers on it.

[@raymondhorvatin1050]

very clever thanks for sharing

[@StefsEngineering]

Would you mind sharing the part numbers for the partingblade and inserts? I am looking for something similar and it would be convenient to just search for it on the hoffmann site so I can order it. I do not really like the search engine on their website so part numbers will help a lot. Thanks!

[@StefsEngineering]

Oh I just noticed it on the holder itself : 273551 didn't see one on the non-ferro box of inserts though..

[@nicholasfranks2616]

Awesome , THAT INDICATOR arm , still have the drawings of it ?

[@heikopanzlaff3789]

Have a PEWE AT 2075 Multifix A blade holder. Iscar 26 mm parting blades SGIH direct fit. Works like a charm - 80 bucks...

[@fly3209]

amazing that Gerardi modular vice ! but also extremely expensive....

[@mog5858]

thanks for your time I have been putting off getting a good setup for parting as I did not have a good holder. I think I going to have to try and modify one of my holders just as you did and try grinding my first D bit on my grinder. keep up the good work

[@ehamster]

Doesn’t the red ring on the milling cutter mean that it has the geometry and coating for cast iron (K). You’d want grey (H) for hardened steels. It obviously worked for you though.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Nope, the colored rings on endmills are mostly manufacturer-specific and are not matching to the colorcoding of carbide-grades.

[@ehamster]

Useful to know, thanks. Every day’s a school day.