Induction Case Annealer with Auto Feed

This video shows a rifle case induction annealing machine in operation with an auto feed mechanism. The auto loader uses a 12V DC 25RPM motor from eBay and a speed controller also from eBay. The pickup drum is of timber cut with a 50mm hole saw, and is attached to the drive shaft of the motor using a 'universal hub' from an electronics or model shop. The induction annealer is based on a design by GinaErik on Shooters Forum.

[@1BeGe]

I was literally about to fabricate a system for uprighting a case out of a hopper style feed like this today and now I see your "screw + funnel" method and sir I think you just saved me about 6 hrs of work and $50 worth of material.

[@bobheale2521]

Great design. And good idea having the Wh meter to monitor&control the amount of energy going into the cases

[@romanroman1975]

Best prototype I have ever seen so far! I wonder if the orienting screw on the feed shelf needs to be adjustable between 308 and 223 or other calibers like 300blk?

[@brucescgm]

If you want plans for this leave your details here (see below about email addresses). I won't find them elsewhere.

[@mikec.948]

Mpc 1598 at gmail could you send me the plans and parts list also. Thanks

[@alanlittle990]

Other similar have posted links to plans. Can you do that? Especially interested in info about the auto feed.

[@brucescgm]

try me at bruce sc 9 at big pond dot com (all closed up of course).

[@cottespatrice8847]

Hi Amazing work! congratulations. How could I get plans and explanations? Thanks in advance PC

[@cottespatrice8847]

Let me try with this address : patrice#cottesdotnet Thanks a lot

[@leightuner2361]

Great setup Bruce. I have emailed you.

[@brucescgm]

Just a reminder to not type your email address as a recognisable address. Please put a blank space in the address, use the # or 'at' instead of @ again with spaces either side of it. The site monitors do not like us going outside their platform and they have previously deleted a number of formal email address from the thread. Many thanks.

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Fantastic any chance on a how to build one video ?👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@brucescgm]

No but I can send you instructions and drawings. See just below 'For plans ..... ' for my address as I can't seem to get them to arrive through this medium.

[@bobymck]

Sir, great annealer... even from couple years ago. !! kudo. now, it seems a lot of ppl is asking the plan to build... may I suggest you to publish it on hackaday or instructable so ppl wouldgo to the link? ~!^ Is that the trigger for the timing to start the annealing process is from the proximity sensor? Did you had to use any arduino component or it is just the PTR4 controller that control everything? cheers and Happy New year!

[@brucescgm]

The trigger is the case dropping past the proximity sensor, that starts the timer for the annealer, second phase timer is 0.4s to open the trapdoor for the case to drop through. Then it stops ans waits for the next case to drop past the sensor. No arduino - I have kept it VERY simple. I will have a look at those sites - I am fairly old so it might be a bit past my IT skill level. Best wished to you for the New Year.

[@keeper1959fem]

I'm using the same timer, and want to mount it so the face plate will be all that shows. Have you done this and made button extensions? If so how did you do it? did you print them? If so can a person buy a set of button extensions from you or get the file to print my own??? Thank you for your time and help, great project

[@brucescgm]

No, I have mounted mine on the front of the face board. You could make a cutout and mount it from behind the board. That way you will still be able to use the original buttons.

[@michaelhursthouse3082]

Design and layout looks good, would there be any chance to get a copy of the parts list and details?

[@brucescgm]

Send me your email address with extra spaces in it and a # instead of the at symbol.

[@tjhuman1263]

Hi Bruce. Is it possible to still send the plans? I just need to figure out how to auto drop the case once it is annealed. I have no idea to do that automatically or what to use.

[@brucescgm]

Yes you can. For plans etc try me at bruce sc 9 at big pond dot com (all closed up of course).

[@keeper1959fem]

great video!!! I have mine up and running now using SP01 for the motor, SP02 for the heater, SP03 for the case dump. Here is my question, do you know how a person might use a proximity switch that would see if there are any cases left in the case holder and keep the timer running, then shut off the timer when it is empty. I'm guessing I4 would be used, but it looks like it calls for a PNP to do the operation. My problem is what setting to use, and how to configure the timer to use the prox sw. If you know how to do this I would really appreciate it.

[@brucescgm]

Hi Panama. Good to hear from you. Sure. one way you could do it is a follows, and it does not involve the main timer. You get a Normally Open (NO) induction proximity sensor and set it up to detect the base of the case in the bottom left corner of the hopper adjacent to the rotating pickup roller. That prox switch would intercept the power to the motor timer SP01, between the timer and the motor. With no cases in the hopper nothing will happen, the pickup roller will not start. Now when you put cases into the hopper the presence of the one in the left hand corner will be detected and trigger the prox sensor to CLOSE, which will switch the power ON to the motor timer. That left hand case is always the last one picked up. Once it is gone the sensor will detect no case present and trigger the sensor to OPEN, cutting the power to the motor timer and stopping it from running. I think there will be enough momentum in the roller to let that last case drop onto the ramp before it stops rotating. As you put more cases in the hopper it will start the pickup roller again. You may need to install an additional switch between the timer and the prox switch, so you can stop the motor if you need to control or cut power to the motor timer. Hope that makes sense to you. Email me or post here if you want further info.

[@keeper1959fem]

@@brucescgm Thank you again. So let's see if I got this right, If I install a proximity sensor (PNP) in line with the output to the motor from the PTR4 SP01 in series, that would in essence cut the power to the motor when no brass are detected. I can see that easily. I will test it tomorrow and let you know how it goes. It is a great idea BTW. Thank you again for your help. I've been banging my head against the wall trying ot come up with a solution.

[@keeper1959fem]

@@brucescgm Hello again Bruce, after learning how to operate the timer I was able to use a proximity sensor to detect when there isn't any brass in the hopper. If you decide you want to do the same let me know and I'll give you detailed instruction on how to do it.

[@brucescgm]

@@keeper1959fem Excellent result !! Glad we could work it out.

[@brucescgm]

If your post with a request for drawings and parts list disappears I have not removed it, thank the folk at KZbin. They don't like email addresses for some reason. Please keep trying to leave your details. Try to camouflage the address - use the # or 'at' instead of @ with spaces either side of it as suggested below. I check the site most days.

[@renezwart3201]

Hi Bruce, thanks for your efforts!! Appreciate receiving the info on rzwartus # gma!l dot com Thanks!

[@howardiko7156]

Oh man this is soo sweet. 🔥 great job. Do you have a parts list? I think I can find a funnel.

[@brucescgm]

Sure. There is quite a bit so let me have your e mail address. Read below how to format you address.

[@theonlyvanimal]

@@brucescgm +1 please. Would love an instructable!

[@brucescgm]

@@theonlyvanimal send email address.

[@slickyboyboo]

Bruce, Is there anyway that I could get a copy of the parts list and build instructions? This is awesome, and want to build my own. Thanks,

[@brucescgm]

Send me your email address and I will forward it all to you. I have tries to add documents through this site before without success.

[@shotgun_chef3265]

@@brucescgm I would also like to see your parts list on this. I am specifically interested in the induction driver and the power supply you used.

[@slickyboyboo]

Bruce Schmidtchen been trying to send you my email address, but it keeps deleting my post.

[@alanlittle990]

Ive tried every version of contact and all are deleted!!!!

[@br4713]

Hi, when the machine turns the circuit on and off, does it act before the power supply or after (40v or 220?)

[@brucescgm]

Send me your email address and I will send you the plans if you like.

[@br4713]

@@brucescgm Thank you, XXXX # yahoo dot com

[@brucescgm]

@@br4713 I tried that email address and it said 'the address couldn't be found or is unable to receive email'. Want to try again?

[@br4713]

@@brucescgm oh sorry, the domain name is .fr (not .com)

[@keeperdearborn]

Do you have plans and parts descriptions available?

[@brucescgm]

I have done up a draft drawing of the layout and am writing up so explaning info for you now. Will get them to you soon. I am in Australia, where abouts in the world are you?? Bruce

[@brucescgm]

Hi, Not sure what your electronics knowledge is so I will just go ahead and let you know what I did, in some detail. I am in Queensland, Australia and we run on 240v AC, so some of yours will be different if you are on 110v AC. I have attached a parts list that I used. If you copy the description into the search bar of EBAY it should take you to the correct item. Be sure that the description is correct, as there are often nearly correct models. Read all of the letters and numbers and do a Google search on the item to ensure it is the correct item. Jaycar is a local electronics parts supplier. There will be someone similar wherever you are. Attached is a rough draft sketch of the layout of my induction annealing machine with auto feed. It is a combination of two machines I found on the internet, the GinaEric induction annealer from Shooters Forum, and the auto feed is taken from a gas annealing machine by 'Skippy' (see link below). I have previously built one of the Skippy ones and it works very well and very consistently. I built this one just to see if I could do it. Yep. I could do it. I have used ply wood as it is so easy to work with. Put a screw in the wrong place and you just move it. Make a cutout in the wrong place and just put the piece back and bog it up. Metal in my opinion is very unforgiving. If I really wanted it in a metal case I would first prototype it in plywood and then copy it across. I have two power systems, 48V DC and 12V DC. 48V DC. Only the induction heater runs on 48v from the power supply. It has an on / off switch with a green LED to show when it is turned on. This of course has the appropriate resistor attached, 2k2. All LEDs apparently run at about 2v DC and the resistor is required to drop the 48v down to 2v. The power switch fits between the power supply and the relay. The positive power cable runs from the power supply to the relay, and then from the other side of the relay to the heater. Negative runs from the power supply to the heater. I have a shunt on the negative which is left over from a previous volt / amp meter that failed. It was easier to leave it there than to re-cable. The relay is controlled by a proximity switch (12v) which is cut into the back of the funnel where the cases drop into the coil. As the case drops through the throat of the funnel it passes immediately adjacent to the proximity switch and it is activated, this signal goes to the timer and the timer activates the relay delivering 48v to the heater for the prescribed time e.g. 3.6 secs. After this time elapses the second phase of the timer activates the solenoid which opens the trap door for 0.25 secs to allow the case to drop. Note that the solenoid operates on 12v. The system then awaits the next case to be dropped through the funnel to activate the next annealing. This must be an inductive proximity switch to work with brass cases, not magnetic. 12V DC. This is a 12v plug in the wall transformer. Everything except the heater operates on 12v. These items are: • timer • integral fan for radiator and second fan blowing on the heater - always turned on • immersion pump in the coolant reservoir to take coolant to the coil and from the coil to the radiator (and its fan) then back to the reservoir - always turned on • speed controller and 25rpm motor for the auto feed • volt / amp meter power supply (cables also to power supply in accordance with manufactures wiring instructions) • trap door solenoid Note that all of these items require 12v supply which is provided through 12v bus bars (1 x + and 1 x -) attached to the back of the face board. It is an 8 way bar, which gives one for power in and 7 for power out. So that fills 8 ports on the bus bars. The essential cooling devices, fans, radiator, coolant pump, are all turned on at all times that the 12v power is turned on. I was caught once without the coolant pump on and that nearly ended in disaster. I rewired it immediately to have all cooling devices on all the time. No dramas since. Auto feed system. Check out this link first. It explains most of it. You may need to copy the link into the Google search line. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2mZY4CPhrqdY7M I made the auto feed case pickup roller from a piece of pine, 50mm long and 50mm diameter. I just used a hole saw from both ends meeting in the middle. It is attached to the motor using an 'aluminium hub set with screws' from Jaycar. I had to drill out the centre to fit on the motor shaft. I used nails instead of the screws to attach the roller as they hold much better. The groove in the roller is about 12mm deep and wide. The trailing edge is bevelled back so it doesn't jam on the way out of the hopper. The angles of the 50mm right angle aluminium used to make the hopper gave a lot of trouble before I got them right, but as they are they work. The final 'shute' drops the case into the funnel has 2 x screws in to front edge to firstly spin the case so it enters the funnel base first and the second screw is to stop the case over rotating. The solenoid which operates the trapdoor has had a thread turned onto the narrow end of the shaft. A small piece of steel wire (from a coat hanger) joins the solenoid to the trapdoor, and it is held in place on the solenoid with 2 x nuts. The finished joint is coated with nail polish to stop it loosening. Works well. It is still tight after 3,500 cases. I have added a digital counter to the system. This is activated each time a case goes through the funnel and activates proximity switch. It occasionally counts two for a single 223 cases, but is accurate for large rifle cases. Anything else you need to know send me a query. Regards, Bruce

[@brucescgm]

Can't attach the drawing so send me your email address and I will send it back to you.

[@SKIPPYISAAUSSIE]

Bloody good effort mate 👍 Great mix of two good DIY machines.

[@brucescgm]

@@SKIPPYISAAUSSIE Thanks Skip.. The electric annealing machine part was actually quite straight forward using the GinaEric design. Tying in the auto feed was more challenging. So. Couldn't have done it without your initial design and hard work. Many thanks and particularly thanks for posting it. I have previously built three of your machines, one with auto feed and two without for friends. They all work brilliantly.

[@d0rrell]

No clue how to send you my email address on here? Would love a parts list and some more details

[@brucescgm]

Just add a few spaces between some of the letters and use # instead of the 'at' symbol.

[@tomwong6361]

Wow! Nice work! Could I get a copy of the plans also? I use google for mail tritomtri Thanks!

[@marthinusbuys4514]

How Do I get into contact withBruce? Who can assist me?

[@brucescgm]

Post your camouflaged email address and I will get straight back to you. DO NOT type your email address as a recognisable address. Please put a blank space or two in the address, use the # or 'at' instead of @ again with spaces either side of it. Such as billysmith # g mail dot com. The site monitors do not like us going outside their platform and they have previously deleted a number of formal email address from the thread. Many thanks.

[@marthinusbuys4514]

@@brucescgm Hi Bruce I have tried this but it seems that the comments keeps getting removed. Would it be possible to contact me via whatsapp so I can share the details?

[@marthinusbuys4514]

@@brucescgm mike, alpha, romeo, tango, hotel, india, november, uniform, sierra dot bravo, uniform, yankee,sierra 6 # gmail dot com

[@brucescgm]

Just my regular reminder to NOT type your email address as a recognisable address. Please put a blank space or two in the address, use the # or 'at' instead of @ again with spaces either side of it. Such as billysmith # g mail dot com. The site monitors do not like us going outside their platform and they have previously deleted a number of formal email address from the thread. Many thanks.

[@brucescgm]

For plans etc try me at bruce sc 9 at big pond dot com (all closed up of course).

[@dscomputers5388]

Did you need to write some code for the process? If so can you send to Computersds at Gmail?

[@brucescgm]

No code required. The PTR4 timer controls the entire process. As the first case drops into the funnel above the coil it triggers a proximity sensor that starts the PTR4 timer and the actions cascade one after the other - anneal for precise time, drop the case through the trapdoor. When the first case is finished and is dropped the system waits for the next case to pass the prox sensor to start the process again.

[@michaelnoble2432]

Fantastic design! I'd really appreciate it if you could email the info to me [email deleted]. Thanks!

[@brucescgm]

Done. Enjoy.

[@michaelnoble2432]

@@brucescgm thanks very much!

[@davidemery1773]

Any chance I can get a copy of the plans for this machine on my gmail account? Terces0913

[@alt7325]

Brilliant! Would love plans too. Send to gmail shiekyerbooty tia!

[@patrickrogers3577]

Very nice!! I like the auto feed setup idea. I am just now starting the parts sourcing and build of my induction annealer based on the GinaErik from shooters forum...may I also ask for plans to be emailed to patspatio1#gmail I would like to incorporate your auto feed setup. :-)

[@brucescgm]

Just my regular reminder to NOT type your email address as a recognisable address. Please put a blank space or two in the address, use the # or 'at' instead of @ again with spaces either side of it. Such as billysmith # g mail dot com. The site monitors do not like us going outside their platform and they have previously deleted a number of formal email address from the thread. Many thanks.