Infinity Cutting Tools - Using Window Sash Bits (55-801)

Infinity Cutting Tools - Using Window Sash Bits (55-801)
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Join us in the Infinity Tools shop as Andrew Gibson steps you through the process of building a wood window sash. You can use the same bits to build French-style doors, as well.
Products used in this project:
Window Sash Router Bit Set (55-801): www.infinityto...
Dadonator Dado Blade: www.infinityto...
Zero-Clearance Table Saw Insert: www.infinityto...
Steel Rules: www.infinityto...
Incra Miter Gauge: www.infinityto...
Wheel Marking Gauge (100-110): www.infinityto...
4" Sliding Double Square (100-004): www.infinityto...
1/4"-Kerf Flat-Top Blade (080-250): www.infinityto...
Router Table: www.infinityto...
Double-Sided Tape (101-286): www.infinityto...
Chisels: www.infinityto...
Birdcage Awl (101-744): www.infinityto...

[@sixpotshot]

After all these years this is for sure the best video I have ever watched about window making! Superbly demonstrated and superbly filmed as well! Just outstanding stuff, bravo! Is there a bit set for this kind of window sash (where the glass panes are hold together with putty) allowing the assembly of double gazing panes in between the mutins without putty?

[@Donhollio]

Thank you very much for this video. I've been holding off building a sash because no one gave a proper step by step tutorial.

[@geoffreyofmonmouth9796]

Just built a sash using these methods. This was an invaluable guide - much appreciated

[@InfinityTools]

Glad it helped!

[@ericanderson8786]

Great bits and great tutorial. I built several sashes on a 120 year old home to match original windows. They matched perfect.

[@PhotoTeacherBlog]

Exactly why I'm here too. 😁

[@darrenmars]

I have been looking for a video just like this for a long time... No idea why KZbin's/Google's search algorithm never offered this up as a result, but I'm glad I "followed the breadcrumbs" and found it myself! Now... Just need to find where to buy window sash router bits... And convert all this to metric I would imagine.

[@InfinityTools]

Check the Link in the description for bits, and google can help convert the imperial to metric if needed.

[@chrisfreemesser]

This was a really excellent tutorial...first good one I've seen on KZbin.

[@robertcase4675]

I realize this excellent video was made waaaaaay back in 2016 so I hope Andrew or someone at Infinity Cutting Tools is still reading/responding here. As I've said, this video is excellent and filled with great detail. The only thing I missed was the step where the profiles opposite the glass rabbet were milled on the stiles and rails. I know it's kinda straight-forward but, in such a detailed video I think showing and explaining the steps to set up and mill would be necessary for a "complete" how-to and very beneficial to others whose skills still need a little polish. I'll check back from time to time to see if you agree and if you've added the steps! Again - WELL DONE!

[@InfinityTools]

Hi Robert, the Ogee profile and the rabbet for the glass are both made at the same time. The stile router bit has both the profile cutter and rabbeting cutter to make both in one pass. If you start watching at the 14:11 mark you should be able to see this process.

[@robertcase4675]

Oh my! There it is - right there in my face!!! I guess since my windows don't have munton bars I kinda flew through this pert of the video and in doing so, missed the explanation! My bad! THANK YOU for getting back to me on this and for doing so so quickly! I own a 1920 Brick Foursquare house in Harpers Ferry WV and have been restoring it for the last almost-four years. I've been putting off rebuilding the wind sashes till the end and in researching cutter bits to help me make windows with the original profile I found your video and tools. I instantly knew your 55-801 bit set was perfect and the attention to detail you put in the video spoke to your dedication to quality. I immediately bought the bits and am beginning the window reno tomorrow. Can't praise you all enough and will tout your company and products to everyone I know who needs/uses tools like yours. I can't say this enough - WELL DONE.

[@Redballproject]

Robert’s comment is actually accurate. While the bit of course cuts the profile and rabbit at the same time, the video does skip showing the cutting of these into the stiles. It shows the process for the rails and muttons only at the time mark. 14:21 The stiles are only shown getting mortised at the start. Still it’s one of the best I’ve found.

[@68HC060]

This is the only video that I've come across, which explains this in details - especially the joining of the muntins to eachother and the mortise and tenon on the muntins. I've been thinking a long time about making the same kind of joinery at the end of the muntins as this video shows in the middle of the muntins. I don't know if that's a bad idea (maybe it's done this way with expansion and contraction in mind, maybe it's done in order to reduce the amount of water getting into the stiles). Even though it's about advertising the router bits, it does add valuable information, so I'd give it a few extra likes if I could. ;)

[@InfinityTools]

Thanks for the kind words. I believe traditionally (Think hand plane and chisel) all the junctions for the profiled portions of the muntins, rails, and stiles would have joined in a miter rather than a cope. The miter is much easier to make by hand than the long cope made by a router bit. also with only hide glue available glue surface was less of a concern than tight fitting pinned joints. Bridal joints in the rails/stiles are also quite common rather than mortise/tenon joinery. Also remember that the Fancy molding profile is on the dry side of the window as the weather side is sealed with glazing putty.

[@68HC060]

Thank you for the additional information - and the quick response! -Yes, of course the fancy molding profile is only on the inside - I forgot that for a brief moment; I guess my mind was elsewhere. =) I very much lean towards the miter-joint; especially because I'm not fond of using a router on the end-grain of a thin piece - but also because I can do the mortise/tenon much easier - which is actually the main reason. ;) The only thing I actually need to remember, is to keep the stiles "intact" on the outside, so that the water will not gather on the muntin and run into the stiles.

[@patrickd8135]

I could watch this video on repeat for hours on end.

[@marvinbenjamin3015]

Very excellent video especially with using the chisel to make the miters

[@InfinityTools]

Thanks!

[@johnmartin1502]

Good presentation. It always looks so easy when a skilled craftsman does it.

[@patrickparker8417]

Not in this case .

[@Redballproject]

The cope bit depth of cut here is 1.25” and the tendon is 1”. So For those looking for this info like I was. The right setting for the bit seems to be .25” deeper than your tendon, to get the cope cut. 4sure test before Final Cut. 😅

[@ashtonthomas4645]

Excellent work

[@rockyravine1155]

great video, can you show how to make a sash with a double pane glass unit and simulated muntins?

[@mattski1979]

You are insanely cool!

[@vw_mods_4711]

Nice man, thanks for the info!! I’m gonna give it a go 👊👊👊

[@IrishChippy]

Am in the process of making 28 stormproof (lipped) casement windows from hardwood, plus 7 screens and 14 french doors. Most windows are large top hung (awning) with 24" friction hinges. Three of these windows are round. I am using your sash bit set as the main cutters. I have removed the rebate (rabbit) part of the bit, for making the frames, and cut a separate 20mm x 12mm for frames. I will also do a separate rabbit for the sashes themselves, as they will hold very large panes of glass. The fact that it is a two piece set allows me to use regular tenons and finger joints, which I feel is essential for good joinery in larger windows. I will post a video or two when the project is complete, and post a link here if you do not mind.

[@robertgordijn8971]

Irish Chippy iA

[@johnflanagan1958]

Great Video thanks. Can this method be used for a much larger window? Thanks John

[@InfinityTools]

Hi John, yes this method absolutely can be used for larger windows. In fact this method could even be used for french doors. The only part that would change is the width of the rails and stiles.

[@maxbeck3577]

@@InfinityTools Good to know. I would like to replace my older windows with the same profile look that you have shown but add double glazed panels for improved sound and heat insulation. Can i use the Window Sash Bits (55-801)?

[@Crooks103]

How excellent. Great video.

[@InfinityTools]

Thank you very much!

[@mrhandymanbathurst2275]

Hi, thank you for your video. could you please write brand of the chisels that you use. Thank you

[@InfinityTools]

We use the Narex Bench chisels 00-700 & Narex Mortise chisels 101-813 in the video. Both are available at www.infinitytools.com

[@ZacharySalman]

I have seen many old hung sash windows where the meeting rails are the same width as the muntins instead of the same as the other rails and stiles. It gives a neat visual effect, unifying the two sashes instead of making them look like separate units.

[@InfinityTools]

Yep, it is quite common to see a thin meeting rail, and I agree it can make for a very nice look. There are only minor changes needed for this type of window compared to the one I made in the video.

[@jasonbratten]

Quick question on final assembly - do you simply glue and clamp or do you typically use dowels or pins to reinforce the joint?

[@InfinityTools]

With as many surfaces are created using that joint, a glue joint is plenty strong. Enjoy!

[@ollie9709]

Great video

[@andrewmason4004]

Very skilful demo

[@wallygeriostrowski2035]

Hi, thanks for the great video. Im in the process of replicating a round top window sash, would it be safer to use the stile bit on the router table with a pin guide or can I do the cut with a handheld router.

[@InfinityTools]

We Would recommend using a router table.

[@lingstonyaki3688]

Very helpful...thank you

[@nansambaracheal8361]

Kindly advise. Is 1 inch thickness for rails and slides ok. What is the minimum acceptable thickness

[@vw_mods_4711]

Hi great video!! Just a quick question, I’m in the uk and we only have an 6mm grooving blade for the table saw, mine has a 30mm bore. Will this do to make the groove across the profile in the muntin bar? Or will I have to make 2 passes?

[@oldporkchops]

It looks like this can make casement windows too. How about a complimentary set of router bits for the window frame?

[@InfinityTools]

Typically the frame for a window can be made with common rabbeting and straight router bits, or even with a stacked dado blade on the table saw. The frames design can vary greatly from window to window making a dedicated bit set less affective. Window casing can be made in so many different styles it is better to choose individual bits to suit the specific project.

[@redaxe77]

I ordered and received this set. I am wondering what species wood you are using and also what are other acceptable window making wood species that can be used. Thank you

[@InfinityTools]

Hi in the video we used maple because it is inexpensive here in our area and is a wood many are familiar. Just about any wood can be used to make sash but I recommend a species that is somewhat rot resistant, but as long as the sash is properly sealed or painted and maintained over time you can use pretty much anything.

[@joeatrivertowncarpentry3960]

Recently purchased and used the 55-801 sash bit set. Together with the great video instruction was able to complete a couple of sashes very similar to the ones in the video. One question though, the cope and stick profiles did not come together perfectly. There is a small gap or offset between the positive and negative profiles. I milled the wood to exactly 1 3/8" and when fitted together the rails and stiles were flush top and bottom but with the gap in every single joint. I know the bits are intended to cover a range of thicknesses so perhaps I need to add or remove one or more of the shims included in the sticking bit. Do the bits come from the factory ready for 1 3/8" stock? Have you a remedy for this? Once again, the videos are key. Great stuff.

[@InfinityTools]

Hi Joe.In my experience the little gap in the profile is caused when the rail (cope) cutter is set ever so slightly high or low. this causes the middle portion of the ogee to bump into each other and not mesh perfectly. There is no need to add or remove shims from the stile cutter. That being said it is hard to say exactly what is happening without seeing the result. You are always welcome to send us an email and a few pictures and we can take a look and see whats going on.

[@royboy3597]

Hi, I'm trying to figure out why you picked a 1/4 inch to notch your mutin bar before the 45° chiseling . Is there some kind of formula? Your a pro with patience I lack both!

[@InfinityTools]

Yes, when you make the muntin bars 3/4" wide the center section of the muntin will be 1/4" wide with a 1/4" wide profile on either side. Making the notch 1/4" wide means the two pieces will slide right together, and all you have to do is slice the 45's stooping as soon as it hits the bottom of the notch. I hope that makes scene. You can make the muntins wider than 3/4" but the notch will have to grow by the same amount. EG. for a 7/8" wide muntin the notch would need to be 3/8" wide.

[@royboy3597]

Infinity Cutting Tools Thanks for the quick response and great video's!

[@PhotoTeacherBlog]

Excellent instructions!

[@allanpennington]

Could I use this set on thicker stock and then router the additional rabbet depth for use with 16 or 22mm IGU double glazed units?

[@InfinityTools]

Yes you can. while it does add an extra step or two it definitely can be done.

[@carleymb1]

InfinityTools p

[@ianplant6330]

You would have to have a wider rebate of at least 15mm,or else you would see the spacer bar of the units.

[@elizabethwalden8683]

I am replacing a window that has the detail on the inside and outside, no glazing. The window is in between the Mutins. Should I remove the rabbeting bit and sandwich the glass between two mutin profiles on either side of the glass or create one mutin with a slot in between for the glass like a cabinet door panel.

[@InfinityTools]

If you are making true divided light windows and don't want glazing putty on one side. Make the window following the normal procedure then make a profiled glazing strip (small matching piece of trim) and use it to hold the glass in place. You need to be able to remove/install the glass if the original pain gets broken.

[@patrickmadrian]

Perhaps this should be obvious, but it looks like to me like you would need to cut the profiles on the meeting rails without the top rabbet portion of the bit attached right?

[@InfinityTools]

No, with this set the Stile bit is always used with the rabbeting cutter attached, no need to disassemble the bit. We show every step of the milling process in the video so you can see.

[@patrickmadrian]

@@InfinityTools I think my question is more for the meeting rails between sashes on a double hung window. Since the meeting rails combined width needs to account for both sashes plus the parting bead, each meeting rail is wider than the other stiles and rails. Because of this, I need to get a molding profile, but no rabbett since I will have a groove instead on each of the meeting rails. Here is a picture of what I mean: www.windowrepairguy.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Draft-Proof-Brown-3s.jpg

[@patrickmadrian]

Perhaps I need to rethink my meeting rail design a bit. I could just do an applied meeting rail that has rubber weather stripping type seal.

[@InfinityTools]

I think your diagram is a bit misleading/simplified. I would recommend sticking with a rabbet and standard glazing for the lower sash to avoid trapping the pain. This would mean the lower meeting rail would be about 1/4" wider than the upper. I would also recommend bridal joints for this style of sash. The upper meeting rail would be easy to make, it just needs the rabbet for the glass. In my experience a beveled meeting face is common so when the window is locked the bevels are pulled tight to seal. the bridal joint lets the meeting rails extend all the way to the outer edges of the sash. It sounds like you are on the right track and just down to the final details.

[@westsidewil]

I'm a novice and I'm interested in making my own wooden storms for my old home. Instead of cutting mortise and tenons, I'm considering using Festool dominos. How would this affect the measurement of my rails?

[@InfinityTools]

if you are using loose tenon joinery like a domino, you would follow the same method as for a cabinet door. You would subtract the width of each stile and than add back the profile width on each side, 1/2" total. Then your tenon would be taken care of with the domino. If I were using this method I would make the mortises for the domino first and then do my routing second. You may need to shorten the domino itself because of the overlap of the profiles to get everything to pull together tight.

[@westsidewil]

I was thinking the same thing in regards to the domino first. Got a couple of old windows that are still on the house as the former owner removed and trashed the rest and replaced with ugly gray aluminum storms. Fortunately I saved the glass from them. Stock on old windows are 1 1/8". Imagine that I have to have 2 by lumber Miller down to that dimension. Is there any specific video or article that you can direct me to in terms of setting up my router table (with bit set 55-802 presumably)? Are there set-up blocks for it available? Thanks.

[@juanesteban8827]

A "Bar" is a solid piece that goes from sash to sash or rail to rail. A Muntin does not. In this video it appears as though the vertical piece is a bar while the horizontal pieces are Muntins

[@michaellogan1191]

Does this bit set allow for through tenons at bottom rail if desired?

[@InfinityTools]

yes, it is all a matter of cutting the joinery to your desired size.

[@Electricistaaprendis]

Where can I buy wood to create sashes? I have called local lumber yards but haven’t been able to get an answer.

[@InfinityTools]

It depends greatly on where you live and what is available. Species like Douglas fir, Ponderosa Pine, Cypress, Southern Yellow Pine and even Mahogany are popular. The key is to find a species that will do well with exposure to the elements and is not likely to break when cut into thin muntins.

[@edgarescobar9895]

that chisel is so fuc&&n sharp....🦂🦂🦂🦂🦂

[@patrickparker8417]

Its not much good blunt .

[@chamalionedemir]

Muito bom friend do brazil

[@egibbons76]

Do you have bits for cabinets?

[@InfinityTools]

Yes we do! www.infinitytools.com/tools/routing/router-bits-sets/carbide-router-bits-sets/door-making-router-bits

[@billdawe3110]

what is the best wood to use for wooden windows

[@ian-baldwin-woodworking]

Fir. In my opinon. East siders like southern white pine but it doesn't have the rot resistance that FIR has. But any wood will last forever if taken care of.

[@williamhoward8319]

which miter guage are you using i have the incra 1000hd

[@InfinityTools]

We used the Incra V27 with this project. We also have the Miter 5000 in the shop and I have a 1000 at home.

[@barbiejay7413]

Where can I purchase the Muntins Grid? I need a ready made Muntins.

[@InfinityTools]

We don't sell muntins, just the tools to make them.

[@ian-baldwin-woodworking]

thank you

[@aditijain4479]

thank you so much

[@sportscarclinic]

Great video. You obviously know your stuff, but watching the back of your hand glide within an inch of the spinning router bit at 15:40 was cringe worthy.

[@InfinityTools]

Hi, the camera makes it look like my hand is a lot closer to the bit than it was in reality. But I definitely appreciate your concern.

[@email4664]

@@InfinityTools Blue Angels and Thunderbirds use this angle of view to also appear as if they are flying at each other closer than in reality, when they are actually far enough apart to put a bus- It should also be said that the tight formation maneuvers in a single direction are the real deal...

[@IrishChippy]

I have used it to make a 1.2 metre round window: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYuUfqKlfNSEjLs Skip to 15::10 to see the infinity bit

[@iAMboognish]

Why don’t you show the assembly process? That would be more helpful than any other part of the entire video.

[@robertdelrisco4096]

Any vídeo un spanish

[@ChrisSmith-wj8yw]

Up moer rpms

[@luisbustamante9392]

Por favor en español!!!!

[@luisfernandob9798]

no es muy nesesario la explicacion es mas que clara

[@cheikhtidianeniang6755]

daur katt bou magua ngui