Inletting Bolt Action part 3 drilling for stock screws

Careful set up and drilling for the stock screws. An important step to make sure everything lines up in the future.

[@richarde5718]

this series is fantastic for those of us with basic tools. i am going to try and make a bench stock for my new Axis 223 from a blank i was given.

[@alfakrull777]

love your videos

[@asulondawn]

Sorry Chris, i had to comment about your drilling method, why not tilt the drill press table?

[@joningerson3134]

Hey Chris, Thanks for the videos. My question is, where can I get the stock screws? Do i use the ones that are on the gun or are those different ones you use to help make the stock?.

[@cknerr]

Thanks! This is the last one concerning the boring stuff. Next is actually marking up wood and making wood chips. Chris

[@cknerr]

Don't use the original ones. You will wear them out and they are not long enough. Brownell's, Midway, etc. all carry them. You can make your own as well if you know how to tap the end of a rod. The purchased stock screws come in 2 versions. One is a straight rod. Use that one first since the wood is so thick. When you get down to near finished size, switch to something that looks like a T-handle. It has an extra long shank, and a base that resembles the head of a screw.

[@cknerr]

Top is up? If that is what you mean, then correct. If that doesn't answer your question, please elaborate and i'll try again, Chris

[@cknerr]

You should not be tightening them to the point there is much of that, but there will be a little. Dry lubes (most are graphite based) are messy and leave black marks all over the place -looks just like the inletting black that means remove wood. Good luck, Chris

[@shanehcapps]

cool videos. only thing like them on youtube

[@cknerr]

shane capps Thank you

[@sc427c]

Thumbs Up on that Video from Stan

[@cknerr]

that you use with your trigger guard/magazine metal. You will be unscrewing it a lot, so the T-handle makes it a lot easier. If you are handy with tools, have a look at the pictures from the above mentioned companies and copy them. They do wear out and break over the years, so I make a replacement to use until I place an order for a bunch of supplies. Try to resist adding a lubricant. It will get into the wood and mess up the finish. Just let it gall.

[@joshua43214]

Set the blank on a piece of scrap plywood so the heel is not overhanging. A few swipes with the block plane on the heel to tilt the blank to it is vertical. Prop up the narrow end up with a block so that the top of the blank is nearly parallel to the plywood scrap. A wedge shaped block with some sandpaper glued to it works best. Drive a couple of long drywall screws up through the scrap and into the stock in a spot that will either be cut out, or into the area where the trigger guard/mag box goes. Do not over-tighten it takes very little screw pressure to hold it tight enough. Now take it to the drill press. you easily clamp it to the drill table, shim the plywood with paper and wood shims to make it. Whole process should take less than 15 minutes to do. Your killing yourself trying to clamp a wedge to a drill press table

[@larryschweitzer1007]

Clamp a board to the table, clamp a 90 degree fence to the work with top of work parallel to top of fence, center work under bit. clamp fence. Drill hole 1, release fence from table board, slide down, drill hole 2. It will be parallel to first hole.

[@cknerr]

+Larry Schweitzer only works if your fence is square to the quill front/back and left/right. Then you will have to figure out how to support the stock while you align it with the top of the fence and then clamp it. Sounds like a lot more work? Maybe not....haven't tried it yet.

[@larryschweitzer1007]

Making a square fence is pretty easy. Checking it is easiest if you chuck a dial indicator. Positioning the work is easily done using a block & wedges. For a quick clamping use the type that you can one hand. Clamp a guide board to the table and all your holes line up. All very quick and easy setups. Not that I much use that system anymore. I've got a milling machine with digital readouts now. If I need to make multiples of anything I put it on the CNC. I totally enjoy hand work but making a living requires the best use of my time. For fun, I cast brass and aluminum parts, machine the areas that I can and hand work to final form. I'm no expert but there is a reason to use the most productive tools available if you want to make enough $ to send the kids to college. Komo router, Jet knee mill, PM1440HD lathe, Calpe copy lathe.

[@Fixinthatupvideos]

T=up from Stan

[@sc928porsche8]

might be easier to use a level to set your wedge for the top surface so that your drill angle is correct

[@cknerr]

sc928porsche since my floor is not level, the drill isn't. Whenever I try to tilt the table it always moves a little when I tighten the the bolts up. (kinda like a dog chasing his tail) This way, the alignment is based on the quill/drill holder and nothing else. As mentioned in another comment, drilling from the bottom might work too if the drill doesn't wonder off and you are really careful about laying where they go.

[@spantosix9]

so many mistakes and back stepping makes me think it can not be that hard

[@cknerr]

You correct, it isn't difficult. I am so use to doing it without thought that thinking on how to explain what I am doing, explaining it + a camera = a lot of distraction. Never thought it would be so difficult and distracting. Correctly locating and drilling holes really isn't. Anyway, the distractions cause errors, so now you know one way to get around a misplaced mark/hole.

[@spantosix9]

I understand I'm a machinist by trade is a lot easier to fly on your own then to explain it to the masses by no means was I judging your ability

[@sc427c]

T=up