Inside a 3D printing pen

There's probably a legitimate use for these things. But I'm not sure what it is yet.
You plug it into a suitably rated (2A) USB power supply, load standard PLA filament and can then doodle with a stream of molten plastic.
The circuitry is VERY cost optimised with the buttons and LEDs most likely being multiplexed on the same pins as the LCD display. But other than that it contains what you'd expect. An H-bridge motor driver, MOSFET for the heater and a voltage regulator for the microcontroller.
I started doing a full reverse engineering on this, but after my sharp meter probe had slipped off a microscopic resistor connection for the 50th time I stopped.
This thing is surprisingly well made for the cost. It has a custom ceramic heater tip and a robust metal filament drive system.
Sorry for the lack of schematic. This video came too close to another that had taken three evenings to reverse engineer, and I just wasn't in the mood for a cryptic multiplexing system with LEDs, LCD display, buttons and analogue sensing all multiplexed onto a low pin-count microcontroller.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- www.bigclive.c...
This also keeps the channel independent of KZbin's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators

[@fenceup07944931177]

Definitely useful for modification to 3d prints. Fixing / joining parts, filling holes. Fixing in magnets. Saved me many a time from having to do a full reprint. If I've put a hole in the wrong place. If you have to drill a new hole you're probably drilling into infill not solid plastic, so you can reinforce the infill with the 3d pen. As a tool to make something from scratch, then perhaps not.

[@انا_ابراهيم_البناوي]

Absolutely it's an amazing tool to have I would love if 3d printing companies made their own 3d pens and made it better like having the ability to change the nozzle diameter

[@lImbus924]

I know somebody who uses such a device in conjunction with 3d printers. They build big sculptures with many smaller 3d printed blocks and parts, and this is one of the tools they use to join it all together and smooth out the seams.

[@oneoflokis]

Sounds great! 👍

[@chrisdixon5241]

Exactly what I was thinking. I have a 3d printer and was considering buying one of these pens for "gluing" together pieces

[@bigratkiller1]

haha, I do the same. I use the pen to weld larger printed things together. I have exactly the same model that Clive has in this video. Had it years. Always worked great

[@XNLFutureTechnologies]

Yeah most I know which have one use them for the same purpose. I do that with my soldering iron (with an additional soldering tip I only use for that).

[@pileofstuff]

I've used mine to join printed parts as well. It may not be a perfect solution, but it does the job.

[@strehlow]

The idea behind these is to draw in space. Set the temperature to the lowest point it will flow so it hardens as soon as it leaves the tip.

[@Ni5ei]

Yeah. When setting it too high it's just a hot melt glue gun 😅

[@tncorgi92]

I remember a similar one that Ashens demonstrated. "Hot mess" is a term that comes to mind.

[@scbtripwire]

I understand the concept behind this, but I have difficulty seeing it work in my mind due to gravity. Edit: I looked up videos of this thing in action on KZbin and all of them use a surface on which to lay the filament. It's nowhere near as exciting as I was imagining, but makes sense.

[@Totalinternalreflection]

You have to go to space to use it?

[@someone2506]

@@Totalinternalreflection preferably

[@chrishartley1210]

I can see it being useful for repairing other items made of the same material. Hot melt glue just doesn't have the correct adhesive properties when trying to repair things like cracked ABS while I imagine this could be forced into a crack where it would amalgamate with the base material.

[@hackleberrym]

that's how i use it sometimes

[@Alobster1]

I do this but prewarming is a must. I use a butane torch with a hot air adapter. I premelt the pieces ahead of the pen and follow with a circular motion with the pen to blend the plastic together. Get the 12v model of these if you can. They go hotter but they are getting harder to find

[@WOFFY-qc9te]

Cheaper than a tube of Arildite..... Looks a useful bit of kit for repairing strip threads in b plastic.

[@soundspark]

That's what I bought my 3D printing pen for in fact.

[@butre.]

yeah I use mine for that pretty frequently.

[@Badgii]

I consider this very useful tool along with 3D printer. I use it for fixing 3D prints. E.g. If I print something large and notice I missed some detail, I draw it by hand or print it aside and weld together. Or if I break a print, sometimes it can be used as a welder to put the things back together.

[@squidcaps4308]

And fixing failed supports mid-print... I use mine couple of times a year but just one rescued print is enough, don't regret buying it at all. It is limited of what it can do but what it can.. can't be done with any other tool. I've fixed so many prints with it over the years.

[@DelticEngine]

One thing that stood out to me is the unpopulated place on the PCB for an 8-pin chip, presumably 'U1', which suggests there might be a slightly more advanced version of this device.

[@bigclivedotcom]

That's just an alternative H-bridge package position.

[@TimHollingworth]

I have used mine with a flexible filament to make several stub antennas for broken transceivers. I made a rubbery foot for an aluminium chair. This was extruded onto the correct size of wood to replicate the chair leg. (The completed food was smoothed over using a soldering iron to shape the plastic.) It was a little difficult to remove from the wooden former but it looked the part once fitted. I also made another foot for a missing tubular leg of a desk. This time I was able to construct it inside the tube. Again the soldering iron was used to smoooth the part and match it with the other 3 feet. Not properly used it with other brittle filaments. But I can imagine a use with the clear filament for repairing the christmas led reindeer, as bits have broken off.

[@kilosierraalpha]

Hi Clive, these 3D pens are super-useful for fixing 3D prints or joining two 3D printed parts together. Lots of vids on YT show how to do that.

[@oasntet]

I've got one of the very early ones, when they were still just 3d printer extruders in a new housing; now they're way cheaper as manufacturers have realized you don't need precision stepper motors in a manually-operated extruder... They're not useless, though the marketing for them has no idea what to use them for. I've mostly used mine to reinforce functional 3d prints; there's a technique where you leave notches in the print oriented vertically (the weak axis) and then fill those notches in manually, and it significantly improves the strength on that axis. I've also done some minor manual sculpting and plastic welding with it; mine has a removable sock over the nozzle, and when I remove that I can use the nozzle to re-melt already-placed plastic. (Technically a tube is only a Bowden tube when both ends are fixed, the way a bike cable is fixed. A free length of PTFE tubing acting as a guide isn't a Bowden tube.)

[@jerrydurand4127]

just make a mold and you have an injection molding setup. :) I know some kids use these to make flowers and such. Lets them work with the plastic on a low budget.

[@forgingluck]

These things are so neat and fun to use, but the early ones were a bit picky. I had to repair my scribblr like a week ago. It got too hot and jammed a bunch of pla down into the area just before the heating assembly. Ended up having to blast a mini screwdriver with butane and jam that a inch into the nozzle to melt it enough to pull it out the circuit board side, so I wouldn't have to desolder the heater.

[@GreenJimll]

I can imagine these would be handy at Repair Cafes to "build up" broken supports inside cases and similar. If I was the electrical repairer rather than the tool sharpener I might consider one!

[@georgeprout42]

Funny you should say that... I'm one of the electronic repair volunteers at our repair cafe and I got one of these last week. In honour of Clive I got a pink one.

[@ampex189]

My 3d pen has saved me a few times when a print starts to come off of the bed. Trying to use this on a bed slinger is a bit tricky. I've also used it to glue together prints.

[@MaNNeRz91]

Some people make some amaxing sculptures with these

[@richardwernst]

Perhaps it could be used to fill in a gap or slightly modify something already 3D printed?

[@ahosie]

Yep. This is handy for making slight tweaks (i.e. where a tolerance on mating parts was too high) and fusing parts together. I use mine this way often, but the results tend to be quite ugly 😅

[@shokdj1]

I might get 1 I’ve been using and old soldering iron to repair broken prints lol

[@neongrey333]

Oh cool-- I backed the original kickstarter for the original 3doodler, the first of these pens. I never found a very practical use for them, but yes, as another commenter mentions, probably useful for patching FDM 3d prints 'glueing' them.

[@quandiy5164]

I got a bunch of those tiny LCDs for about 1.5usd per lot of 5. Now I know where they were originally used for. I never got around to using them yet as they are not as simple to use as I originally thought. There are three common pins as suspected but they are not per digit. 1 common is for the top segments, another for the middle segments and the 3rd for the bottom segments. Makes coding a bit of a pain to make characters.

[@squidcaps4308]

I use mine mostly on fixing prints, occasionally welding prints together if the join doesn't need to be that strong. Adding dots to loose friction fit parts to increase its strength (again, non-critical stuff..) and fixing failed supports mid-print. They are handy but limited. But what they do can't be done with any other tool, so.. used three times a year, on average but i do not regret buying it. I did buy two cheapos from eBay before biting the bullet and bought a Polaroid pen. It has worked just fine, a bit finicky about the USB power as it does seem to actually draw the full 2W so you need to give it a proper USB power supply. The cheapos didn't care at all what PSU i used, as long as it was somewhere between 1 and 2W. Especially fixing supports is what it does really well and better than any other method. The bad news is that it is clunky as fuck and does not have removable nozzle cover: that is why removable covers are better, they narrow the tip down to minimum.

[@انا_ابراهيم_البناوي]

I have this exact same 3d pen but it has a military camo color and it's honestly very good it's very useful to fix broken 3d prints and to repair broken plastic parts and you can make your own stuff to use very useful tool in my opinion

[@MladenMijatov]

They are awesome for repairing broken 3D prints. A number of times I have 3D printed something, only to not include enough support or make certain parts weak. Once they break all you need to do is "weld" it with this pen and it's good as new.

[@vhfgamer]

I have a nearly identical 3d printer pen. Except mine doesn't continually feed when you push the button. You hold the button down and it feeds. Also mine came with a proper wall adapter instead of a USB plug. I use mine for plastic welding for repairs. Like if I pull a device apart and the plastic is cracked, or if screw posts snap off, I can weld them back on better than if I used glue. It works better because the pen melts the surface of whatever I'm repairing, and it melds nicely with the melted ABS coming out of the pen. Making a pretty rock solid repair. Just like welding steel.

[@rarbiart]

a follow up look at the actually heating element current and ntc value (while both connected) would be great. I suspect some sorcery in that controller.

[@elvinhaak]

I use them all the time to finish and repair 3D-prints. Kind of like glue within ABS/PETG prints mostly to connect the parts just pushing filament into holes that stick well together. I put that into the design-thought already. Another option is to fill holes in prints with connections like screws or pins below the surface. So after the printing of the parts, put them together with the (steel) pins, use the pen to close the opening and you don't have the connectors into sight anymore. If you press the molten filament in the hole slightly, it is almost invisible if you use the same filament (the rest of the roll).

[@ralfbauerfeind8236]

Thanks for making this video. My own arrived about three weeks ago, but I had no time to test it yet. 😊

[@twocvbloke]

The way I look at it, they basically created an over complicated, over-engineered hot glue gun, but one that uses plastic that doesn't seem to want to stick to things properly... :P

[@napalmholocaust9093]

You not being able to push filament through while off is probably a consequence of the gear train requirements of torque at the end of tbe line to rotate. The strand can't push hard enough before it deforms.

[@Alobster1]

These used to be 12v and would go up to 240C. It's very hard to find these any more. The 5v ones don't go as hot and they don't melt ABS as well. I use my 12v model to repair abs parts by prewarming with a small butane hot air nozzle and follow with the pen to weld the pieces together. The 5v models aren't as effective

[@VarionJimmy]

Good to know. Thanks! 👍

[@wimwiddershins]

I found one of these to be fairly useful for repairing or small modifications to prints. Though you have to smush the nozzle into the print to get a good stick. Also, it died after about 10 uses. Mine looked the same but with a small, all metal gearbox. Edit, I see others have the same idea. 👍

[@Rig0r_M0rtis]

Some people can do amazing art with this.

[@johnnythefixer]

Fit a spool of solder wire on the back and hey presto... Soldering pen

[@elvinhaak]

Did you try this?

[@bigclivedotcom]

It might need a temperature hack for that.

[@RicME85]

I have a Polaroid branded one, use it for filling voids in 3d prints and repairing broken prints as you can melt the two sides together with the tip of the pen and apply new melted plastic at the same time. Very handy.

[@andymouse]

" Bowden Tube " is a smaller version of the " Jefferies Tube " and is used mainly on 'Nano Class' starships.

[@dcallan812]

I dont know why they bothered with an LCD. They have 2 types of filament to print with so 1 switch between the two types. We dont need to see the temperature if the PLA wont come out you turn it up if its running like a childs nose you reduce the temp. I can understand the ;ack of a drawing. 2x👍

[@انا_ابراهيم_البناوي]

There are different 3D filaments you can with like PETG or nylon and having a screen can help with selecting the perfect temperature for the filament and not to mention there are different filaments that have a different color/look at certain temperatures

[@KeritechElectronics]

I recall playing with a 3D pen at a hackerspace once, but it was far simpler. This one looks nice and interesting, I like the mechanics of it.

[@MishuuuTheWah]

3D printing pen's are great for welding plastic shells together. i have used them in the past to repair vr controllers(knuckles) and 3dprinter parts. great cheap bit of kit.

[@jensgoerke3819]

I learned welding in the 80's and the 3D pen is useful for "welding" 3D printed parts together - hot melt glue doesn't stick properly, universal glue like UHU works for joining flat surfaces, the 3D pen can bridge gaps - they all have their purpose.

[@frogz]

you got the good 3d pen!!! i've been trying to get 1 of these since mine broke, this is a way better design than the 3d doodler which only has 2 forward speeds and NO reverse, these are great for repairing/patching/assembling actual 3d prints edit: this may be a clone of the pen i had, mostly the same components but mine had an actual linear pot for the speed control also a random use for these is insulating random broken wires without properly repairing them when the insulation breaks RIGHT at the strain relief, my 52v bike charger had that before i replaced the entire dc side to the board

[@andrewknights1304]

They can be used for making model tree armatures for model railways or war gaming. Must have a look myself! Thanks Clive.

[@EagleFPV43]

I got a usb version, works pretty well, doesn't take too long to heat up at 5v2a

[@billbucktube]

There are interesting sculptures from these pens.

[@jeffdayman8183]

I bought one of these pens a couple of years ago to basically play with, but when I started downloading free 3D print STL files for things it found a practical use. Some of the files I downloaded had some design errors - thin areas that cracked, or oversized holes and slots. The pen allowed repairs to be made, in a sloppy way mind you, to allow the printed gizmo to be used and not scrapped. Handy too for plugging holes in things when hot glue isn't quite permanent enough. Have I got good value from it? probably not, but it's been useful in some cases. Cheers! PS it should not be underestimated as a tool for making freehand sculptured decorations for beverage glasses used after carbonation...8^)

[@rambo1152]

I had a Bosch fridge-freezer with separate LED temperature displays that were "economic with the truth" in a similar way.

[@RichieReportsUK_UKCNews]

It's a bit like a fancy hot melt glue gun!

[@CDRaff]

1:30 Here in the US in the 70s there was a small trend of hanging lamps made of stringy extruded plastic. We had several of them in our house from when my parents were kids. They were ugly as sin.

[@farmersteve129]

My grand-neice has something similar to make little trinkets & is very good at it, I know that the only thing I could make with it would be a mess😂

[@brabhamfreaman166]

One person’s mess is another’s art, I guess. And vice versa. Something tells me that a lot of practice (and messes) eventually lead to proficiency and production of desirable art/mess. I could see someone, with considerably more patience than I, getting quite good with it😅

[@pault6533]

Thanks for showing me your fluorescent spooger.

[@XNLFutureTechnologies]

I have one and have had it since my first week of 3D printing, to be able to repair small fails in large (as in multi day) prints, or stuff like that. However such things didn't happen that often at all, and i ended up using it only two or three times in a time span of about 10 years 😂. Other than that I PERSONALLY find then quite useless also to be honest. The controls are also TERRIBLE. Like yours, mine also has the 'press once to extrude, press again to stop'... and in the most uncomfortable position to be able to work accurately and cleanly. I THINK if they would move the buttons (OR add an extra one which works as 'hold to extrude') that it would be much more functional. Neat video, and I don't blame you at all for not making a circuit drawing of this 'contraption'😂👍🏽

[@SimonSideburns]

I bought one of these from Aldi or Lidl a couple of years ago thinking it'd be really useful for something, but it's still sealed in the box. I'll figure out a use for it at some time when I need something small made, probably, but so far I have zero idea when that'll be.

[@carstensteinert6018]

Interesting content as always! Funny to mention, that my brain rotates to long, asking myself, why one connector on the pictures of front/ back of the board was named 'TOM' 😂

[@phonotical]

RU are making heatshrink now? It's been ages since I've seen their logo inside of something It's a shame the gears are plastic as I imagine they'll be the first to wear down If the speed control is a divider, could a potentiometer not be substituted for finer control, or will they only work at specific voltages? I wonder what the difference between the two plastic types tempreatures are, maybe the ramping of the display is slowly increasing the current, so it's more an amp reading than a tempreature?

[@martinbalmforth2665]

You could have written naughty words such asCAPITA

[@mattelder1971]

Some people in the 3D printing community use these for joining parts of large prints, sort of like a plastic welding machine.

[@leybraith3561]

...I wonder if you could use the pen to draw symbols on 3D printed parts then use a heatgun to embed those symbols into the surface? ...Extraordinary amount of cost optimizing to produce 'believable' readout changes. ...Makes me feel a bit bemused that such lengths have been taken to glitz (falsify) the readout. ...As usual... THANKS for taking the time to give such an enlightening teardown.

[@merlynsfire1275]

I was occasionally hand making hot ends for 3D printers about 18ish years ago. Measuring and cutting nichrome wire, hand winding them and fire cement coating, casting on the silicone cover, the whole nine yards. Also built whole machines, one of the machine from the company was used for the bloodhound project (and I now have) and people were experimenting with ceramic and chocolate printing. We discuss hot air to sinter sugar.... was an interesting time. Would the three pads for speed perhaps give 5 speeds, two extra from the two bridging positions?

[@dalmatianlife]

Dyslexic JLC PCB board used? Looks mighty suss just from the name.

[@fpvwing]

Ive a couple of these, and no 3d printer, Ive used it for go pro mounts and all kinds of stuff,building up layers really quickly

[@nicholaswouters1203]

ABS gives off toxic vapors when printing, and an enclosure is advised when using it in a 3d printer. So this having an ABS setting strikes me as wildly unsafe, as how many people actually follow the warnings given in the included literature ? Given how litigious the US of A is, I'd guess not many 😅🤣

[@RichieReportsUK_UKCNews]

I don't think the ABS fumes are toxic, unless you overheated it, I worked in the plastic moulding industry for about 30 years, When moulding ABS, at the correct temperatures, (around 220 - 250°C) it often had a sort of sweet smell.

[@nicholaswouters1203]

@@RichieReportsUK_UKCNews Just about every 3d printing blog mentions the need for an enclosure for printing ABS, and many give the reason as toxic fumes.. I did go find a MDS from one of the filament manufacturers and also read up on fume extraction and found "Although ABS filament fumes are not considered toxic, they are unpleasant to most users. As the material is heated in a 3D printer, it creates gas and microscopic particles during the process. This exudes fumes that can cause physical discomfort such as drowsiness, eye irritation, nausea and headaches." So while not toxic, its also not great 😅

[@zh84]

13:08 "When the motor's churndering away" - cross between "churning" and "chundering"? The latter makes sense as it's spitting something out! 🙂

[@SirBoden]

Reminds me of a plastic welder I had 25 years ago. Speaking of which… I wonder where it is. Probably hiding in a box of technical gadgets somewhere in the house.

[@joruss]

It comes handy when you have to fill a void in situ or make quick plastic *nob out of a bolt. Although some people cam make awesome things with it (and A LOT of sanding)

[@daviddavidson2357]

They're apparently excellent plastic welders and good for touching up 3d prints that have come out a bit wonky. Only having plastic type settings and not temp settings is a big fail though. IIRC abs melts a bit higher than PETG so it should be able to do PETG too if it had a temp setting mode. Make it a bit hotter and you could do nylon too, though I can't see nylon working well out of one of these.

[@casemodder89]

we all tend to put the spudger in the rear from time to time if not guided elsewhere 😅

[@Zodliness]

I bought a couple branded 'Wild Park' Version 2 for a £10 each, which boasts 'anti-jam technology' and has a digital speed adjustment over the V1 mechanical slide switch. They're fun for what they cost, however one tends to get the usual quality and safety assurances that comes with all Chinese electronics nowadays. There are some better manufactured brands out there that perform way better, but that's reflected in their price point. 👍

[@CelentAle]

Interesting, I almost buy one and modify it to make filament from pet bottles, so I can reuse it on the 3D printer. 😎👍

[@GriotDNB]

Great, although no schematics, this one keeps me from taking the kids' 3d pens apart. Not that they have been used in recent years...

[@JuffoWup78]

My god, using a 3d pen to print abs is a nightmare I didn't know existed. Anyone planning to print abs with one of these things, please wear all protections and do it in a well ventilated area. Preferably outdoors.

[@gregorythomas333]

Pretty neat device...might look into getting one for small projects.

[@garyhalsey7693]

Normally with a H Bridge, two high inputs = magic smoke out! 😂

[@LawpickingLocksmith]

Bummer! Our local grocery store had them a few weeks back. Could have done a new episode of pretending to be Mark Rober and build an obstacle course for my current cockroach plague.

[@alaricpaley6865]

Yeah, these low quality ones are what I use to fuse other 3d prints together. Thats about all I think they're good for.

[@woffyreal]

i have one of these! i use it to make goofy little trinkets for friends and family, not really good for anything else and theres a bit of a learning curve to it

[@Yea_I_Got_Nothing]

Take it off the stand that allows it to move with precision in 3d space. And its essentially an over complex hot melt gun with a motor and display. 🤭👍

[@jasonkuehl639]

I bought one of these to weld together my 3d prints, but mine has the speed slider running opposite of the one in this video, and the advance button is only momentary (reverse is a constant run unless you stop it with the advance button). Exact same casing, display, everything else is identical. It's been amazing for use with PETG! I wonder how many variations there are being cranked out of the same factory with nothing more than a different name put on it?

[@MarkDurbin]

I agree, not too useful, some people use them for gluing 3D printed parts together. Thanks for the video :)

[@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842]

Nice one! All you have to do, is to mount it in a cartesian frame and use som steppers and a small microcontroller, some software and perhaps you can even automate it!!! Jokes aside, I'd guess if you experimented with this thing with thermistor loose or shortcut, I can only guess that you'll get a very hot hotend indeed. If it were to reach 388 degrees, which should be quite simple, PLA will ignite and if you're not around to watch when that happens, if you're lucky, you'll be able to extinguish the fire quickly. Otherwise it won't go well… PS: Please revisit this to take a closer look what'll happen if/when this thing goes haywire. I'm pretty certain this is a catastrophy waiting to happen.

[@Zodliness]

It's made in China, what could possibly go wrong? 🤔😂

[@sadlerbw9]

Now you have me wondering if the power output actually changes at all when you bump the temp up and down manually, or if it just changes the display!

[@SwompyGaming]

For some reason I got unsubscribes somehow. I went through 8 years of comment history and so glad I found an old comment and ypur channel again!

[@bigclivedotcom]

KZbin unsubscribes people all the time. I'm not sure why.

[@shanematthews1985]

ABS on something without an enclosure? that sounds like a bad idea for something you would give to a kid

[@jkobain]

Oh, I have a PLA-only transparent pen. I know it is a toy, yet it's not a mere toy.

[@unclefrogy743]

never thought of something like that but in concept kind of like a hot glue gun using a different plastic with auto feed. Could it be used for "hot glue welding" appropriate plastic parts like parts made out of ABS?

[@petersage5157]

I was expecting this to be little more than a hot melt glue gun, and I'm curious how it is functionally different other than the medium.

[@evana3636]

Useful as a hot glue gun substitute when you need stronger plastic. Also fixed many 3D prints with them.

[@marty0715yt]

Electronic Silly String. As good as the Bluetooth Toaster.

[@BentFraKommunen]

I dont think it was designed with a thermistor, insted I think it was designed with only a thermal fuse.

[@galaxya40s95]

05:14 Instructions to change motherboard in the manual? What kind of witchcraft is this?! 😮

[@dessilverson161]

A hot glue gun that you don't have to squeeze the trigger. Very handy

[@paulcresswell6268]

We live in a world of mundane miracles.

[@AndyFletcherX31]

"At (Clive) room temperature the thermistor resistance is 125K". What are the chances it is a 100K part when measured at 25C?

[@kurt9232]

I would like to see a propper one in comparison.

[@asimms65]

The only use I see is for Big Clive to take it apart.

[@napalmholocaust9093]

If the temp sensor fails high, could you overdrive the feed to compensate? I know nothing about multiplexing past cars have it. Can the 3 resistors be changed or will the chip not cooperate?

[@richardbriansmith8562]

Awesome Video Big Clive🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂

[@HakkiOgrt]

I made glasses with it for my little nephew. :)

[@PyroRob69]

Hehe a hot snot glue gun that leaves behind more rigid plastic. Kinda cool!

[@Fluxkompressor]

This thing looks exactly like the Ravensburger "tip-toy" Totally unrelated and for kids

[@ConfidentialMeerkat]

1:25 someone spends their day doing this, what a messed up monotonous world we live in. it reminds me of them people in them videos almost dyeing of boredom 😐

[@cedmanotro]

Useful to repair plastic rivets

[@ItsFieryPepper]

THIS VID JUST GOT POSTED THIS IS A RARITY TO SEE NOWADAYS 12 MINUTES AGO????

[@Totalinternalreflection]

What?

[@mechadeka]

Do you know how time works?

[@adama1294]

You can weld 3d prints with it.

[@MasterBakerVideos]

For the man who already has everything. So basically a fancy hot glue gun, lol. Ok, it's unique but I've made patterns with a small hot glue gun, using different colours and even just squeezing out some B6000 glue on a greased surface can do the same. What else would pass through that? Licorice strings? Maybe for cake decorating.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Can you actually get licorice strings? I've not seen them in the UK for many years. (called licorice laces here)