Inside a cheap 3-way remote control switch. (With schematic.)

[@DryLog420]

By far the best reverse-engineer that exists. It takes me hours to do the same that you do in minutes. Lots to learn from you man, keep the videos coming!

[@pauljewell2939]

Hi Clive I've just obtained the latest latest version of this device the YAM-803. Almost all the components are now surface-mount types. When I first tested it I was alarmed to find that it consumes about 27W (@245v) on standby! Changing C1 to 680nF (0.68uF) reduces the consumption to about 12.3W and everything works as intended. I finally settled on supplying the DC 12volts via a separate switch mode power supply, of course omitting C1. I simply connected the 12v to the 0.0v and the +ve to one of the 680 ohm resistors, there was no need to disconnect the 12v zenners.. Standby is now just under 1/2 W. As this module is mainly designed for remote controlled lighting circuits, channel 1 is designed to default to ON after a power cut.

[@bigclivedotcom]

You may have been reading the apparent power and not the actual power. Capacitive droppers always give the appearance of high current, but the power dissipation is usually much lower. Probably about a watt in your unit.

[@arcadeuk]

Thankyou Clive, I have been looking absolutely everywhere to find something that can doudle my engine, I had almost given up hope :)

[@cup_and_cone]

Poundland always sounds so much better than any dollar store we have in America! I guess the extra 42% value due to exchange rates helps.

[@MrSashquatch2.0]

As strange as it might be poundland is owned by Americans 😂

[@jfenly]

Yeah, Poundland has all these cool LED lights, meanwhile the Dollar Tree near me has 100 watt incandescent bulbs, which I thought were banned, but apparently they can get away with it because the bulbs are rated for "rough service"

[@quincyskis]

I'd prefer if it was called poundtown

[@MyManiacGamer]

+OriginalSashquatch where does it say poundland is owned by Americans, the CEO is British business man Jim McCarthy

[@regferraris]

+ManiacGamer definitely british

[@kevtris]

that receiver is a classic. it's a super regenerative circuit. The op-amp is a new wrinkle though to amplify the output of the receiver. Usually they use a string of 2 or 3 "Self biased" transistors to do the amplification (this is where the emitter of an NPN is grounded, and then a 1M to 10M resistor is connected between collector and base, and then another resistor from base to V+)

[@Landrew0]

At first, I was skeptical about using an iPad for making these videos, but on second-thought, I think it's very logically a good idea. The viewfinder (main screen) is big enough for Clive to see how the final video will look in accurate detail.

[@MixZTitaniumDubstep]

I believe the microcontroller and remote probably operate on 2.4 gigahertz and are tied to a serial number similar to a wireless mouse. That being said, it most likely won't interfere with other units. But there may be a sync function in the microcontroller and one in the remote. That's probably why there's the extra pin on the microcontroller so you might be able to use a momentary switch connected to that pin and ground.

[@MrKleberdj]

Thanks a lot Clive for this detailed job. I didn't get to find it anywhere until I came here.

[@DaveCurran]

They don't have to be matched, just have a unique number in the transmitter. The receiver could be set to just remember the first ID it receives. Given the amount of testing I suspect it would have received, that first ID was probably received during this video.

[@clynesnowtail1257]

That's what my cheapo car keyless entry does. The first remote it sees after power up is the one it remembers has access.

[@stupossibleify]

I had noticed many of my remote sockets failing over time: now you've explained why

[@bigclivedotcom]

Here's a video about the way the capacitors fail. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3jGamCKpKqcf7M

[@MsDowloader]

Note about the diode noise, you can even use this for good and make a super simple and cheap noise source for measuring antennas. Since it makes noise on very wide range of frequencies.

[@brentonsword6688]

Can't believe I stumbled on this. I bought a "traffic light" from aliexpress which had this controller inside. When you turn the power on and off, it will cycle through 1 relay each start. So, when you turn off and on, green light. Off and on again, yellow.... so on. How cool!

[@SigEpBlue]

Ah yes, YAM. Their toughest competitor is Sweet Potato, and I hear they can be topped by Butter. ;)

[@bborkzilla]

Actually it belongs to Popeye: I yam what I yam.

[@craignehring]

Aye, Popeye keeps his tool in Olive oil

[@hgbugalou]

All of the roads in my neighborhood are named after plants and trees in alphabetical order from east to west. Yam is the road next to mine. The more you know...

[@riverhuntingdon6659]

Ahso or quite so. What a sirry iriot. With apologies to Benny Hill :-)

[@theLuigiFan0007Productions]

Mandrake Fernflower Good o'l AvE references. XD

[@twocvbloke]

Shoul dhave gotten two of them to test whether they're uniquely paired or are just a one-for-all thing, if they were the latter it'd be handy for switching on separate banks of things on different circuits at the same time... :)

[@deadfreightwest5956]

"I yam what I yam, and that's all that I yam!" - Popeye the Sailor.

[@sparx104chris]

Great video as always. Do have a question though: how safe are these relay-switching-live-only setups considered? I ask because I have a Raspberry Pi controlling a number of relay boards (220v 10A AC relays) only switching the live which I use for controlling lights. The high/low-voltage isolation on them is very good (physical cutouts on the board). I've been told that using them is unsafe but I can't see why - light switches themselves only switch the live feed anyway. Everything is fused and connected to an RCD, the connections to the lights are earthed at the relay end even though the actual light fittings are plastic. Am I being safe? I was maybe perhaps thinking of using 2 relays to switch both live and neutral for each feed - would this be safer or just overkill? Any opinions welcome!

[@elcam84]

Handy unit. it's about $4 shipped to the us in the 110 version. Might get one for the shop so one remote for dust collection, air filter and compressor. Obviously using this unit to switch high capacity relays. I wish we had a pound land here as they seem to have the coolest cheap stuff like those batteries. Those never show up at dollar stores here. Anything under $4 each is a good deal here. Need to make a trip to the UK and go shopping I guess..

[@Someone-cb3zx]

23 fucking minutes and already 1 dislike, what the fuck is that guy thinking he must have misclicked, if he actually disliked the video i want to hear why he disliked it...

[@ThePunischer1000]

Probably just another hater kiddy. Sadly a very common thing on KZbin :(

[@likomgwtf]

Maybe they were expecting the video to be about a different type of cheap 3-way?

[@littlewol2620]

maybe wasn't cheap enough for them? :P

[@Elfnetdesigns]

There is ALWAYS that person that dislikes videos no matter who they are from..

[@maicod]

so he decided to be cheap himself and vote down xD

[@Renegade30]

Seems like a reasonabley good quality design I'm impressed

[@clownhands]

Hello Clive, it might be fun to look at the signal from the RF module to the microcontroller on an oscilloscope.

[@Stuartrusty]

Easily hacked for existing 12v DC applications such as car, boat and indoor 12v L.E.D. lighting. Nice.

[@alanbramwell7694]

My unit failed after 5.5 years. The article made diagnosis and repair a " walk in the park." Great little gadget

[@sebimoe]

A video before 4am? Madness!

[@norcicoso]

i have been using this for quite a while, works a treat !

[@Robothut]

I have used a lot of these. They also sell them as 12 volt DC units. twice when I ordered 120 AC units they sent 12 volt DC units marked as 120 volt AC, they burned up quit nicely when I powered up the unit. They also sell them as single channel units, those do have a code for different channels of operation.

[@1marcelfilms]

i have no fucking clue what this is but i still watch

[@masterzedd4]

Clive, i would absolutely love it if you went through the different kinds of voltage regulators in more detail.

[@joshuarosen6242]

The "finger test" reminds me of some gas fitters who came to our house to replace a gas fire which had been leaking CO (and probably would have killed us if we hadn't noticed). I found them waving a lighted newspaper about and when I asked them what they were doing, they told me they were testing for gas leaks. I suppose the idea was that if they lived to tell the tale, there wasn't a leak.

Thanks for the explenation, it helped a lot. One question only; how does it works as "toggle" instead of button?

[@sublimationman]

That cap looks a lot like the ones I use to replace on monitors in a casino, they would fail dramatically with a ton of smoke and smoke would then come out of every hole and slot in the machine causing people to panic. Mind you the machines were very hot inside and on 24/7 and they failed only after the monitors were 7-10 years old.

[@MyBigThing2010]

I'd love to see more vids on these! controlling LED strip lights, hacking...what else can they do with a little help from soldering and adding some Lego part pre made D.C.step downs etc etc etc

[@SatanicJamnic]

I have this switch. I use it for my ceeling lamp, two USB HDDs (i can mount/dismount drives wirelessly) and for my charging station. It's a great solution.

[@jdod64]

ceiling* you heretic.

[@SatanicJamnic]

jdod64 I'm polish. English is my 2nd language.

[@jdod64]

+SatanicJamnic excuse me then my polish friend.

[@rccarz5]

Do you enjoy getting invaded?

[@SatanicJamnic]

rccarz5 Ya. It's quite fun. You can't get bored.

[@iconoclad]

I have several of these YAM controllers. I was initially confused about the mains capacitor size as it is designated CBB22J and an erroneous web search told me that it was 0.22uF. However, it is also designated "400V 105" which is 1uF (one million picofarads). My magic tester says it is 1.2uF which is close enough. Clive may have misread the zero in the 105 as a decimal point. My RX do not have the 4 caps across the bridge or the inductor and only one zener populated. My TX is different, it has an 18 pin AD0369 encoder. The encoding is done by bridging solder tabs - low, high or open, yet the receiver doesn't have matching solder tabs, it has the same pre-coded microcontroller as in this video. Its a shame Clive didn't figure out how to encode the RX as I would like to sync 2 of my TX to the one RX.

I think the weak component is not necessarily the capacitor but the thin neutral trace. Some higher current and it will burn.

[@peekabooandpo2618]

You are such an expert but for those basic users here just to see how to connect wires, we just need a few seconds of this video from 10:03. You’re welcome.

[@AsymptoteInverse]

Apparently, Cliff do sell Quicktests on Amazon, although they're a bit above my price range at US$73 or thereabouts.

[@1973retrorabbit]

Hobo Sullivan They start at £27 on Amazon here in the UK... £34.95 for the same one Clive is using... for some unknown reason, some people are selling the cheaper one for £100.

[@Spiderelectron]

We, the public, demand a tear down of that power meter!

[@chamilarathnayake]

There is a major problem about this device. That is when we turn off the power to the unit (radio signal receiver) and when we give the power again, unit get turned on automatically. That is a really bad design. Imagine there is a power cut. When power goes and come again all the devices controlled by this unit will get turned on. Do you have any suggestion how to avoid automatically turning on the relays when I give power to the unit.

[@myr415]

Hello Major design problem on all models of this design: at start-up, the relay is powered! So the device to be ordered is immediately powered! On a two-channel module, this known anomaly is almost bypassed by the written procedure on the object: "1. Connect the power supply with the A / 1 ON ... This does not prevent a short action of the relay

[@tusharkhavale9940]

Hi jean-pierre legrand, I have a 3ch model, and I am having this same issue of auto power up 1st load on power restore. I am not a circuit expert, how can I bypass this issue in my rf switch model. Thanks

[@biswaahn]

Technology Explained dude, did u get fix or work around for this problem?

[@garywheeler7039]

I was trying to decypher the Chinglish instructions this weekend, as I bought 3 units. (1 two channel, and 2 one channel). I was wondering if turning the power off briefly and then on would do anything special like switch first to the first channel, do it again then the second channel, etc? That would be cool if one lost the remote controller for instance. Or just wanted their life a little more complicated... Edit: I think I found out. On the first off/on it turns on channel A. On the second off/on it turns on channel A and B. On the third off/on it turns on channel A and B and C! This is on a similar 3 channel device. See: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZeyqY2ZeK-lnc0 On a two channel device, the off/on sequence is similar, it goes A, then B, then A and B. There is the video for the two channel device: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l56llYWolq2UmK8 Good job on the video Clive and thanks.

[@charlesmurphy1510]

This is common with these devices. It is programmed into the controller chip which is most likely a one time programmable chip. It is to operate the switch without the remote. I have brownouts/blackouts regularly and also consider it a nuisance. The only solutions came up with is to replace the controller chip with an 8 pin decoder (maybe a RF803D)? Otherwise this is useless to me. I don’t like coming home to find my lights on.

[@AdamBluntTech]

Maybe you should have a look at the inline remote switches, the ones that plug in between a socket and the device you want to switch. They just seem very dodgy, especially because you could in theory plug something like a heater into one and I doubt it would handle that sort of power.

[@garywheeler7039]

Certainly those little wires wouldn't carry much current. Should be safe for CFL and LED's though, maybe a small exhaust fan.

[@Mentorcase]

I just got a couple of 2 way switches made by yam and the remotes have different codes on the back also they don't operate each others switches.

[@Catanhaa]

No way of learning different codes?

[@Mark1024MAK]

I noticed with mine that they have found a way of further cutting costs. No more 78L05, looks like it uses a Zener for the 5V as well. The remote control board is different as well. Of course, it could be a “clone”...

[@MattHollands]

The way they did the 12V clamping looks odd to me. Why didn't they put the whole 240V rectified signal through the zener and resistor in series (dropping the voltage across the resistor), and then take the twelve volts across the zener? As it is, the 12V rail could be any voltage and any variation in zener current would result in a different drop across the 68R resistor. I know that this isn't meant to be the best designed thing, but I wonder why they wouldn't do that?

[@RichardT2112]

Great video ... What is that quick connect testing unit you are using called? (JUST KIDDING) :)

[@rlee0001]

You fed 240v AC into that unit right? Straight into the rectifier circuit? No transformer? How did the voltage drop down to 12v after (before?) the rectifier circuit? I missed something obvious I guess.

[@bigclivedotcom]

The large red capacitor limits the current to a controlled portion on each half wave of the mains supply. It's a capacitive dropper circuit commonly used in low power electrical devices like time switches and LED lamps.

[@jaywalt1311]

Damnit Clive Im tired of seeing all this cool stuff thats not in the states. Now I see a 5 pack of alkaline A23s for a dang pound! They dont even have them at any dollars stores around here! Youre so lucky!

[@PsiQ]

Also got surprised by this. we also have €tdi (euro-tdi) stores here, but they also sell stuff for more than 1 euro, so mayber poundland is also more the 1 pound. 1pound or 1 euro for a big pack of those cells is really cheap ! Cheapest single cell i found at reichelt.de is 60eurocents. normally in stores you pay 2.50 for the then urgently needed cell... 12V - 38mAh is not very much bang for the buck tho..

[@GintsDzerve]

Hi! You might be the right guy to ask the following- I have a similar remote unit for my exhaust valve on car. The remote works pretty bad and also eats up battery very quickly. I am thinking of putting a manual switch to it instead of remote. What kind of switches and on what wires do I connect? Thank you!

[@hgbugalou]

Clive, where did you get the quick tester from? Is there a North American version? Worst case I can chop off the UK plug and put a NEMA 15P on the end. That would be super useful for my lab.

[@bigclivedotcom]

If you search for my quicktest video you'll find some links to sellers in the description.

[@hgbugalou]

Will do. Thanks!

[@EscapeMCP]

Clive, Reading the ebay listings, it appears that each time power is switched on to this unit, it cycles round the 3 outputs, so 1st time on, output A is on, switch on and off and B comes on, and after C, it switches ALL outputs on (I guess this is to allow control if you lose the RC?). Quoting from an eBay listing: *3. Manual lighting sequence (wall switch control): A/1 , B/2 , C/3 , the whole circuit will be turned on.* If your ever playing around with this again, could you possibly check if it's not too much trouble? I want one of these to control a dust collector for my woodworking, but having it come on after every second powercut is a deal breaker! :)

you can also get switches that go directly in e27 mount and then you mount a bulb in them, they usualy have a silver remote and you can get combos like 4 mounts and 1 remote or you can get 1 mount one remote. do a review if you can ;)

[@SigEpBlue]

Hey Clive, when PP capacitors fail "interestingly," in _my_ admittedly-limited experience, they have tended to blow their Magic Smoke™ out through a small hole, usually about 2 mm in diameter, and typically in the direction of a component which is easily damaged by hot gas and smoke. We just replaced a bunch of junky German-made fluorescent ballasts on the CNC machines at my father's shop. I think the capacitors were WIMA branded...?

[@PhilWaud]

Im surprised that you havent done a "big clive" teardown of those cheap mains remote switches - the ones where you plug them into the UK mains and then plug your main device into that. They seem very cheap, just wondering if they are also safe!?

[@Boemel]

Finger test :D, i once finger tested a crt television that was only powered down half a minute ...

[@johnnythefixer]

Hi Clive. Just received one of these units and I connected the live wires one by one to my Aneng AN8002 meter. Whilst in the 'off' state, they still gave readings between 7v and 15v ( on the AC setting on the meter ), shooting up to 240v when powered on. Is this anything I should be concerned about, or is it just a false reading from the meter ?

[@lezbriddon]

In other teardowns of mains equipment we have seen the 4 diode bridge setup on the mains, but this one has 4 extra capacitors across the 4 diodes, would you hazard a guess as to their necessity, and why in products where cost is the main design feature, they spent the extra on capacitors

[@bigclivedotcom]

This circuitry requires a clean supply with as little noise as possible to increase the sensitivity of the wireless signal reception. Other applications are less critical.

[@jrperrotta]

When you mentioned a 3 way remote switch, is that referring to a real 3 way switch, that has a traveler wire from 2 individual switches for this remote control unit? Or are you using the 'marketing term' used to describe a single off-on switch using a remote control?

[@bigclivedotcom]

It has three channels of single switches.

[@stupossibleify]

really fascinated by these capacitive dropper circuits as an alternative for transformers, can you do an in depth video to explain how they work?

[@zx8401ztv]

A clever and very compact controller clive :-D Hopefully the input capacitor is good, then the device should last :-)

[@samehezzzat]

all the logic in the micro-controller , it got a different coding and switch input "A" automatically when u power up the unit (in case u need to use it with a regular light switch ). u can't modify the logic ( momentary or latch or whatever ) except after changing the code :( i got another 4 output unit from the same vendor and it lasts for 2 years now. my micro controller is more bigger (14-DIP) and got no numbers written on it ... just smooth. and i got a timer to turn off all the outputs after 17 seconds.

[@vsmash2]

Super interesting! thank you for that.

[@fcaughli]

So the two blacks are because one is used for in and the other is common for the outs? And is the black for the neutral, red for hot in? And does the on/off turn all of the three off and all three on? Or can I use A, B and C for individual on/off? If so what is the on/off for then, all at once?

[@JUANKERR2000]

Hi, Clive, I bought four remote control dimmer units for 12 volt LED lights and they were not encoded so all remotes operated all dimmers; annoying but at the prices hardly surprising.

[@bigclivedotcom]

That's really common with the IR controllers for LEDs. But also quite handy as you can carry one with you and randomly change shop window lighting to your favourite colour.

[@JUANKERR2000]

These were RF ones see www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322039419332?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT but thanks for the idea, I can't wait to try it out, you wicked man!

[@jamesquest2009]

Hi. Congrats for the post. I have two of these switches and they have different codification. Have you found a way to reprogramming the codification?

[@saturn5tony]

Awesome video as usual, thx Clive.

[@assistantto007]

looking good Clive, no band aids visible today 🤕

[@JamesMiller-sx3qc]

Hi Clive great video, where did you get that bench tester thingy for the mains

[@bigclivedotcom]

Search my videos for quicktest and you'll find links in the description.

[@macro820]

Never fails does it.. someone always asking about that thing

[@ThePunischer1000]

Just look on ebay for Quicktest and play around with the keywords (adding -ph -strips helps to filter out the ph testers)

[@simplexicated]

Cpc Farnell does the quick test.

[@harryjnr2335]

made by Cliff I think

[@TheLukemcdaniel]

Wouldn't it be wiser to do the finger test with the back of your finger? Any charge there will cause your finger to curl, so it curls away, instead of making it clamp harder? Not as much of an issue with capacitors, but probably a good habit to get into if you're going to use a finger test...

[@magnets1000]

The remote chip will likely be an ev1527 and will have a unique address code. For around £5.50 you can get a USB RTL-SDR dongle and capture the codes. (search for R820T2). These are great for controlling LEDs using 433mhz, it has a receiver and transistor to switch the LEDs www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201560080763

[@cybermaus]

Nowhere can I find the RF frequency. Did you see anything on the devices to indicate common 315 or 433 MHz? Though if I judge the antenna wire length it is probably 315 (23cm) rather then 433 (17cm). You know what, I'll order one anyway.

[@vpot-j3t]

Hey Clive, I love your videos. In a previous one, you tore down some e-cig chargers to check if they could load malware on to your computer. I noticed one of them only had discrete components on a single sided board inside, and opened mine up to check and found that it was the same. The LiPo in my e-cig doesn't have a charging protection circuit. Is it safe to use that charger? Could you possibly make a quick video explaining how it works?

[@arvinkumar4407]

How do you Jack it to use on 12v plz? I want to connect this to my solar panel to light a few garden lights. Saw another video where this is connected directly to a battery. Your input will be much appreciated.

[@bigclivedotcom]

There are 12V versions of these.

[@sunil237]

Hi, Can you give me some advice please. I won't be doing the electricals myself, just buying the materials. I want to use this switch (3 way) to control 3 devices. 1 x inline fan with 108w motor. 1 x inline fan with 50w motor. 1 x 3 light fitting total 15w Would I be able to use this device to control them all?

[@Shinji_Dai]

I looked it up and the 2TY seems to be a standard transistor of the PNP variety.

[@eeyore6532]

I think that single pin is just support for the RF board.

[@jasyb5508]

Hi Clive I too have similar sets of units and control various garden lights. As such I now have around 4 separate remote controls. Do you know if it possible to get a universal remote control which can be taught to replace the 4 individual remotes? Thanks

[@maicod]

when I first saw this video I didn't notice that when you put mains on the red and black wire you let the white and the blue wire touch eachother. Seems dangerous cause I guess they're output wires of the relays but nothing happened in your video so I guess I'm wrong that it was a dangerous thing to do. I know that you know what you're doing ;)

[@maicod]

+bigclivedotcom sorry I already understand they are all negative wires

[@swallin19]

Any idea what operating frequency the unit operates on? 2.4ghz? interesting unit if the mains is removed and the relays have independent outputs. 3 Channel on/off basically? An RC unit for about £2.50, very interesting indeed, many thanks for the posting, my use would be in models and automata. Stephen.

[@superdau]

Very likely 433MHz. You can get transmitter/receiver pairs for less than 50p (60$/€ cents) on ebay.

[@zeno2712]

I see the cover has the CE mark on it but the unit clearly would never pass BS EN 60950! Obviously you're not going to test the units you take apart for compliance, but could you consider mentioning whether products carry the CE mark and whether you think they stand a hope in hell of passing? Some of the products you look at are clearly highly dangerous to the general public and (if available in the UK) should be reported to Trading Standards.

[@SianaGearz]

Oh but he probably ordered it over from China, he usually does, because it's cheaper than going through the EU/UK resellers even if those exist. If you report that, won't they just fine YOU because you're the importer then?

[@zeno2712]

No, the Directives only apply to manufacturers, distributors and importers who place products on the market in the EEA, so bigclivedotcom is safe!

[@billreeve7912]

CE stands for China Export. They just copied the logo

[@jmicari]

Great video with plenty of information. If I wish to have this in line with the current wall switch so that it will also work as well as the remote how would I do this?

[@charlesmurphy1510]

The code is fixed by the uC. Cannot find the number on the net. I would like to disable the mode that allows you to turn on the lights by toggling a light switch, this is the reason the first channel lights when the power is interrupted. The floating pad under the uC is supposed to program it by grounding but it does not work. I tried ground and 5 volts but no joy. I guess I will have to redesign it with a 2272 decoder.

[@ILLO1978]

HI, i have a yam-802 (2 way), sleep function is only 10 seconds, I want to increase the timer to 300 seconds by resistors or capacitor change on 555 ic. Do you Have a solution ?

[@stevioAda]

ebay listing says each unit is programmed so more than one unit per room is possible

[@Hont4321]

Can this YAM remote switch be used to make a 2 way (UK) light switch (or 3-way (US) light switch)? Right now I have a light with one switch. I would like to add a remote switch in addition to the current switch. Can this device be used?... and if so, please make a video showing how to wire it. thank you

[@timsampson2941]

I'm trying to find a replacement remote for my light fitting which obviously has something like this built in. My remote is 433.92MHz frequency - is it likely to be uniquely coded to my light fitting or can I just buy a generic replacement?

[@bigclivedotcom]

It will be coded. Some are compatible and may be paired, but it's not guaranteed.

[@CarltonDodd]

Hmmm... I'll bet it would be easy to modify that thing for 110V (US) by changing out that capacitor, right?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Yes. Using a 200V capacitor with a higher capacitance value. They may actually have a 120V version of this item.

[@CarltonDodd]

+bigclivedotcom See? I learn things from you!

[@pilotsmoe]

YAM makes 120v versions, but use a buck regulator as opposed to a capacitive dropper.

[@shockwavecity]

bigclive , recently, I've been searching for a ground loop isolator for my car. Problem is, when i have power plugged into my phone (iphone 6s) and the headphone cable plugged into my AUX port, i get a LOT of interference and static. Seems like most of the GLI devices are pretty much cheap garbage and kill a lot of bass out of your music. Any chance you could do a project video on how to perhaps build a really nice GLI device with quality components?

[@AfaqSaleemChannel]

Finger test, LOL, btw I am using same with two button options in my room, and my dad laughed at my laziness. A nice feature it has which I didn't know at time of installation (so i have output wires connected to buttons as well to power on when not having remote) is that if u turn on the button it will power on light A and if u turn on and off quickly it will cycle between B then A+B and then off, so no need to use separate switches. Too lazy to change wiring :P

[@AfaqSaleemChannel]

Update: Mine just stopped working, neither remote nor the power button doing anything, will see if I can fix it.

[@zeeraak]

Hi clive I like your videos you're a star I watch a lot of them can you do a video on a lost replacement remote for this unit on how to pair the new replacement remote to the existing receiver unit many thanks in advance

[@bigclivedotcom]

If it's a standard unit then a transmitter with the correct frequency should work. Pairing normally involves pressing a button on the unit and then one on the remote. Note that if the button is inside on mains voltage units then I'd suggest pressing it with an insulated rod for safety.

[@shaikabdulkareem6678]

Hi.. Nice Video. How did the case when Inverter connection with those switches?How do we proceed?

[@joesumcock886]

That's one Sweet Potato.

[@TheFleming98]

When you see 'with schematic' and you can't click the thumbnail fast enough

[@abhijeetkamat2889]

Nice rip down thanks👍👍 I have 3 way switch but recently it's trip down the switchs in minutes What would wrong with it

[@bigclivedotcom]

Does it randomly turn the switches off after that time? It may be that the main electrolytic capacitor or the voltage dropping one has degraded.

[@abhijeetkamat2889]

@@bigclivedotcom if i put all switches on , it won't stay on If only one switch turned on it works so anyone of among them works only

[@bigclivedotcom]

@@abhijeetkamat2889 that does sound like an issue with either the large rectangular capacitor or the large round smoothing capacitor.

[@abhijeetkamat2889]

@@bigclivedotcom thanks for quick reply ...I will check it

[@SJ-cm8tv]

I presume the contacts aren’t clean but switching 240v live supply?

[@graugaarddk]

I would love to Se a teardown og the Sonoff wifi remote controlled switchbox. They have it at Banggood. I'm intrigued to buy one, but would love to hear your thoughts on it First.. 😊

[@sangeeth_619]

Hi bigc, can you please explain a bit more about the "decoupling capacitors " ? And why there is a little choke in the input rectifier circuit? Because usually capacitor dropper circuits don't have an input choke. :)

[@bigclivedotcom]

I think it's all about reducing noise from the circuitry and external sources. The radio frequency receivers are easy to swamp out with electrical noise, making them less sensitive.

[@sangeeth_619]

+bigclivedotcom Oh.. all right. Now I got it. :) I've learned so many things from your channel really.😀

[@KrX3D]

hi, i would like to pair 2 of those devices to use only 1 remote. can that be done by turning the screw (in the green housing) on the receiver board ?

[@Icathiann]

Clive did you have to go to poundland to buy that pack of batteries? That would be annoying lol

[@student-jd6yp]

Can you plz tell which IC is used

[@nomadrameshmrk]

Mr.bigclivedotcom Can we add a manual swtich to this system?, Where both remote & switch shld work. coz sometimes am in search of remote in dark.....

[@zendell37]

Seems like it could easily be converted to a DC power supply if you wanted to use batteries.

[@garrygemmell5676]

Love the finger test - one day...one day...zzzztt Fried Clive!