Inside a stylish 65W LED photography lamp.

Photography is one of those areas where the suppliers seem to grossly exaggerate the power ratings of their lamps. As in this case.
But it's quite an attractive style of lamp and on a plus note the LEDs aren't being grilled.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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[@florentan]

Anxiously awaiting Clive's next instance of applying test leads to a photocopy instead of the actual circuit board. Because those sorts of unguarded moments are truly entertaining. More Dark & Stormy needed, I suspect.

[@Polite_Cat]

LOL, what video did that happen in? i often fall asleep to his videos, i must have missed that?

[@kilrahvp]

"Favorite meter setting" Yup... We get nice good meters becasue engineering and accuracy, and all that to only use the continuity test 90% of the time in the end...

[@GiddeonFox]

To be fair a good continuity test is one of those nice good meter features too, I *hate* when a cheap meter takes half a second to register a beep, that thing needs to be INSTANT

[@zx8401ztv]

I like the mass of the heatsink and the use of a buck regulator, not so bad really :-D. Your photos always look real, dam good printer :-).

[@neilwilliams2907]

damn ;-)

[@curlyhairdudeify]

I don't think he uses a regular printer. In some videos you see the gloss of the copy... It seems like he uses an actual photography printer.

[@S7EVE_P]

Lie Tu!! Like one of those sinister Corporation names you see in a Sci-Fi film. Nice :))

[@DumahBrazorf]

Like "InCool8", but only italians may understand...

[@dr666demento]

Those are special Chinese watts. Divide by 3 to get real-world watts :) My guess is the Chinese sellers are using the term ''watts'' as a ''performance rating'' - it's as _bright_ (or more) as a 65w incandescent bulb, so call it 65w. For many years AMD did that with their CPUs, their CPU would have a ''performance rating'' to claim their chip is as good as an X speed Intel CPU (though actually not as fast). The name? Still doesn't beat banggood.com or UltraFire (lithium batteries). Banggood does know what that means in English, and plays with the joke. UltraFire and likely Lie Tu probably don't have any idea... Or care.

[@patrickwatkins7572]

lie clive ;-D what is the power factor ?, joule theif ;-)

[@NoName-bt3oy]

Like that lithium battery brand name "TrustFire"!

[@patrickwatkins7572]

i need a chinese wife !@

[@HungryGizmo]

I ordered a couple of 150watt LED lamps last month. one turned out to be 35watts, while the other was surprisingly real. Never seen a bulb so bright. Seems like Aliexpress is more reliable than ebay these days.

[@MrEdwardhartmann]

By the way the two resistors that power the chip are mounted, you could remove both, turn one 90 degrees and mount it across the lower pads and you would have achieved the same thing as shorting one out. I wonder if that is what they do for their 110v-120v versions.

[@dustysparks]

The texture on the aluminium fins screams to me that it was cast, and then maybe machined to clean up the LED side?

[@peterzingler6221]

Dustin Sparks yes the structure isnt suitable to be Made by a Strang Press Maschine Like they use on normal heatsinks

[@galardo3303]

Its probably just a diecast and yes u can do that I work in that business not for metal but for plastic parts but the molds are not that different

[@phils4634]

It wouldn't be too difficult to mount a fan on that heatsink, and move the PSU to another location. In which case it might be possible to over-drive those chips a little (without too much reduction in longevity). The enclosure (and diffuser) alone would be well worth it for a special project - stick in a central high power COB array and away you go!

[@jasondoe2596]

Phil S, I wouldn't bother if the emitters aren't high-CRI (I doubt they are). *edit:* to just modify the PSU, I mean.

[@JasperJanssen]

Dustin Sparks not with those screw posts on the inside. It’s clearly an extrusion plus a stamped tray that is first stamped from sheet and then drawn into the tray shape.

[@Petertronic]

I just stocked up on 12W LED filament lamps from Maplin closing down sale. They are actually 12W too.

[@phils4634]

Whilst I understand that Maplin have gone downhill lately, it's still sad to see them go under. I'm old enough to remember when they were Mail Order only - and they certainly provided the materials to get a whole generation interested in electronics, at an affordable price.

[@cornishcat11]

I used ambit international and maplin in the day .I am amazed that they were mail order as you say then went high street and were amazed that online mail order killed them.someone needs an as kicking

[@Petertronic]

Yes I'm sad about Maplin too. I got their first catalogue in 1987 (with the amazing cover artwork) and it made components and test equipment accessible to anyone. Previously suppliers were often trade only requiring trade accounts or large minimum orders. It helped get me into electronics in a big way! It is sad :(

[@phils4634]

Started with Maplin in the early 1970's. They did excellent PCB, PCB + components, or PCB, Components and case kits for many of the projects published in e.g. Practical Wireless, back in the day when DIY'ing PCBs was messy, fiddly, costly and the end results often far from perfect! Used them for the PW Synthesiser Project (early 70's) and the PW Smart Oscilloscope Project (late '70s).

[@RWBHere]

Sadly, they've priced themselves out of the market over the past decade. They were charging up to three times the online price for some items. And I never saw the staff looking busy in our local shop. Those 1970's catalogues were a goldmine of information for many youngsters who have kept electronics and associated skills as either a hobby or a career for the past couple of generations. Sad to see them go. How long until Chinese sellers start recycling the brand name? Answers on a postcard, please!

[@FurrBeard]

My reaction was "somewhere between 1/2 and 1/3 the claimed wattage" - what can I say, I'm an optimist. ;) I once squeezed a vendor on AliExpress because I was peeved that the spec inflation was such that the LEDs I got were just under a *quarter* of the claimed power; that was going too far and I opened a complaint over it. Probably had no effect in the long run, but I got a little money back. ;) It's sad, really ... but I suppose that makes Chinese companies like Xiaomi - who actually _understate_ the power capacity of their USB power banks a bit - stand out even more as respectable.

[@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC]

Lies aside, this isn't bad. For 20W, that amount of heat sink area is a damn refreshing sight to see. Every time I look at SSL products, everything boils down to thermal design. The 19-21W lamps that I've found retail have all had essentially no heatsink. The body is a painted, unfinned Zamak tube shaped like the neck of an A19 bulb. The MCPCB runs 90-120C in an open fixture, base-up. The caps and LED's are so far beyond their rated thermal capacity it's a wonder they last a day. You'll lose about 15-20% of light output in the first month due to the extreme LED temperature. FWIW, the 60W passively cooled lamps I build have heat sinks like a damn rackmount amplifier -- but that's because that's what it takes to enforce junction temperature with an ambient temp max of 55C and a safety margin to account for dust accumulation. All the retail designs have less than zero margin for nonideal environmental conditions.

[@Polite_Cat]

Isn't it amazing that Xiaomi, a popular chinese company, became popular by largely ripping off other's designs, (not 100%, but mostly) but doing it with quality and at a cheap cost, basically getting what you pay for, and that business model worked? They have never done anything groundbreaking, just deliver a quality product at a reasonable price, not garbage that was shoddily manufactured for the least amount possible. It's kind of sad, really. One of the first modern big chinese "respected" manufacturers did nothing but NOT scam you.

[@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC]

Yeah, the bar is pretty low these days.

[@jamess1787]

We all want part 2, where you bridge the 434 resistor for full output!

[@RWBHere]

Thanks Clive. Despite the rating being in Chinese Watts, whose exchange rate fluctuates more than Bitcoin, they look like quite useful lamps.

[@MichaelKohut]

In regard to photography, LED lamps are becoming the new standard for studio lighting, replacing the older tungsten lamps. LED runs cooler, uses much less power, lasts longer, and costs less. The only drawback you might have with LED (especially cheap ones like this) is an undesirable colour temperature. Most professional photography LED units have an adjustable colour temperature, or at least a preset calibrated colour temperature. With cheaper LEDs, you will probably have to experiment with your camera settings to find out which white balance setting works best for you. If necessary, you can do colour correction in post-processing (e.g. Photoshop, etc.). These low-cost bulbs are a great bargain, especially if you're an amateur on a low budget. You can search on Google if you need more info.

[@SommetiderHvorforDetRoligRolig]

LMAOOO i cracked up so bad when u read the name of that bulb.

[@wiedehopf9068]

with all the lamp reviews you do you should get some device to measure the light output! Because knowing how much of that 22W just becomes heat would be very interesting. Or lacking that just compare it to a known lighting standard like a single fluorescent tube on fixed exposure setting.

[@cornishcat11]

great idea to quantify actual light output compared to power input

[@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC]

Measuring total luminous flux (the metric of interest) isn't exactly trivial. Your typical light meter infers illuminance from intensity and alone is not suitable for comparing two sources with different radiation patterns or at different distances. To attempt to find total flux with such a meter, you'd need to know your light meter and then integrate numerous readings at different angles around the source. Symmetry might simplify the problem, but you'll likely be making inaccurate assumptions all over the place. That, and I doubt most cheap photometers are calibrated to account for LER, so two sources with different color temperatures may yield different results -- not rightly because of the human eye's spectral response, but simply because of whatever unrelated spectral response the photodiode has. Typically, luminous flux measurement is done with an integrating chamber instead: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_flux#/media/File:Luminance_Chamber.jpg A makeshift chamber could be constructed and would likely be sufficient for comparative analysis at the least.

[@wiedehopf9068]

I mean the supplier is stating 65W but giving you a bulb with 22W. So this kind of discrepancy could also exist in the quality of LEDs. I'm well aware it's not easy. Maybe always use a diffusion plate like the one that came with this lamp? As i said comparing it with other light sources with constant exposure alone would be interesting to spot gross discrepancies.

[@jasondoe2596]

Dream Services International, I hope Clive sees your post - building and calibrating a simple integrating sphere (which really is the only sensible way to measure total lumen output, AFAIK) could be a fun project to show on the channel :D

[@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC]

What you describe -- using a diffuser in front of a sensor -- is how the light meters I mention work. Similarly, such an approach would be equally difficult to get any meaningful measurements with. Using a meter at a fixed distance from two sources of equal luminous power and different radiation patterns will misleadingly give vastly different readings. Unless you only care about center beam intensity or something, this isn't going to be useful for comparative analysis. Using two single intensity measurements to compare the power of sources is like comparing the weights of two buckets of rocks by only weighing one rock from each bucket. It's misleading at best. Unless you attempt to integrate, you're not measuring power. Any measurement or comparative analysis would be no better than just assuming a nominal ~100 lumen/watt efficacy for the LED array. I know we're all sort of focused on analyzing the performance of lamp assemblies, but I think you have a point regarding suspect quality of the emitters themselves. I suppose the requirements for photometric analysis are the same, but I have a sneaking suspicion that the biggest problems with crappy LED's are undersize dice, bad die attach, and unreliable wirebonding. I suppose phosphor degradation is a concern, but I'm pretty sure that phenomenon is just a consequence of everyone running the LED way too hot. Short of batch operational testing, idk how you'd test die attach/wirebond reliability in a quantitative sense. In the same sense, idk how much you'd really need to bother with photometric analysis if you're just testing for failure mechanisms that cause sudden failure instead of gradual degradation.

[@blaircox1589]

Here in Canada, all CFL and LED lights are listed in incandescent equivalent watts. So a 60w is something around 11w for a CFL.

[@peterzingler6221]

Blair Cox yes thats so you know which normal light is replaced by the Led one

[@d2factotum]

Yeah, but LEDs are brighter than the equivalent wattage CFL, so there's no way a 22W LED should only be as bright as a 65W incandescent.

[@brainndamage]

d2factotum 22W would be around 150W incandescent equivalent

[@agvulpine]

d2factotum: There is no static value. It can vary wildly from 1/5 to 1/4 to 1/3 factor of actual draw versus its incandescent equivalence. If the bulb supports dimming, it will draw more current than one which does not. There are different emitter binnings and different noise suppressing circuitry that both affect efficiency.

[@MarkTillotson]

I suspect warm white v. cold white is a major factor as warm white is dimmer in my experience (why are there so many warm white LED lamps in the shops? I hate warm white, I want white whites, just like the wasking powder ads have programmed me!)

[@agvulpine]

They do this in the U.S. It means 65W Incandescent Equivalence. The actual power draw is going to be between 1/4 and 1/3 of that value, as you discovered. Incidentally, that 5500K value is also an Incandescent Equivalent value.

[@jasejj]

It'd be interesting to see what Clive thinks of the 85p 15w led bulbs from CPC... They seem to be honestly described and I've had one in my living room for the last six months now.

[@CorradoMella]

I guess the "over-rating" thing is done to help the not technically inclined to predict the light brightness, as if the light bulb was a standard incandescent filament light. An "equivalent" power rating rather the effective power consumption. After all we've all been used to pick bulbs for applications according to their power rating rather than the right unit (lumen or lux).

[@MassimoTava]

Continuous lightning in the photography world is another term for video lightning as opposed to a flash or strobe that can only be used for stills

[@enceladusfox2247]

Its definitely different looking, it looks nice and bright , need to wear welding filters when you light that bad boy up LOL !! Awesome video as always Clive

[@sparkyprojects]

The heatsinks i bought make more sense now. I wanted some round heatsinks for a project, the ones i got were from Amazon, 2" centre, 4 1/2 " outer, lots more fins, but the posts were integrated within the fins, mine look extruded and simply cut to length (1"). so maybe mine were meant for a true 65W lamp If there's no off position on a meter dial, i prefer to leave them on the highest AC voltage.

[@wavecreatures]

Brilliant being a photographer it’s was a great insight! Thanks Clive!

[@phonotical]

Thinking about this, the 65w rating might be the incandescent equivalent

[@paulstaf]

Clive, do you think they are rating it as compared to an incandescent bulb? Like in the stores here they say, "Same light output as a 60Watt incandescent", instead of actually comparing LUMENS.... :)

[@bigclivedotcom]

I'm not sure. I'd be hoping a 20W lamp was a lot brighter than a traditional 60W lamp.

[@dannywood6842]

I noticed in Tesco recently that all the LED bulbs had wattage ratings much higher than they could possibly be. I think they have "simplified" the ratings so I guess we are stuck with incandescent bulb wattage forever.

[@WineScrounger]

Generally I’d expect about 10x the power into a tungsten lamp for the same light output as a given LED. so this thing should kick out the same as a 200w tungsten lamp (ish)

[@misterhat5823]

A "60W equivalent" is more like 11W.

[@vandeputalexandre244]

There is 60 led on this lamp. Each led are rated @1w. But the driver is only 20w. This is simple . They don't advertise actual current drainage, just a "led maximum power" but the driver is usualy 1/3 . This is good for longevity. just ask actual power drainage and no bamboozle occur. (with a driver 60w lamp 3*brigther but life 10*shorter cause temp°)

[@hoglundh]

It would be interested in knowing how you end up with the datasheets. When I search I always end up with sites that want to charge you for downloading the pdf or signing up with them.

[@bigclivedotcom]

The datasheet sites are really annoying. I look for the PDF symbol and then check to see it's not one of those sites. Sometimes I can only find it as an image.

[@wyokaiju992]

22W LED is equivalent to 100W incandescent lamps... They really missed out on marketing it like that.

[@johnmorgan1629]

They have a partner company Uid Iot!

[@TheDefpom]

You should pull out the led pcb, I found in smaller lamps that there is insufficient heat transfer between the pcb and housing, causing overheating, I bet there is no heat transfer compound present.

[@codygay3412]

Clive! You should make a another project lamp out of this light! It's been a while since you had a project like that and I think it would be quite enjoyable to see what you come up with. It would kinda be neat to use meteor lights coming out of it, might kinda look like a rocket engine or a shower head depending how you program one of your PIC micro controllers. Great video!

[@phils4634]

Put in a driverless 150W COB array, stick a fan on that heat-sink, and "enjoy the lumens" . . . . . . .(Clive's light is $8.50 from Malaysia - www.ebay.com.au/itm/E27-Photography-Photo-Studio-65W-5500K-LED-Light-Bulb-Video-Lighting-Lamp )

[@codygay3412]

Phil S thanks for the info! That's a good idea as well.

[@kraftybeard4272]

I wonder how accurate the colour temperature is and what the CRI is like seeming it's sold as intended for photography?

[@rlund3]

Uses finger to double check capacitor . . . lol

[@maicod]

he always does that :)

[@heavenhelpus6624]

The 65 Watts is in reference to being equivalent to the illumination output of incandescent bulbs. Fluorescent bulbs are similarly referenced as equivalent of incandescent bulbs.

[@WineScrounger]

The dish bit could easily be a spinning, small simple shapes like that will do nicely in a small automatic lathe. It’ll turn those out all day, no complaints. Source: I run a spinning shop among other things.

[@misterhat5823]

There's a chance that the bulk capacitance may be too low to run on 120V also.

[@oasntet]

How continuous is the light output from this? The clever bit about driving the LEDs on both parts of the cycle is clearly to allow it to work with a high shutter speed, but is the output very smooth or still flickering to some degree at 50 or 60 hz?

[@bigclivedotcom]

The camera is very good at picking up flicker and it doesn't show.

[@tiporari]

They probably say that because there are 60 1 watt rated LED's. 60 Watts plus 8-10% engineering tolerance. You could theoretically push them to their limit but of course it wouldnt last and would quickly overheat in that package. Would be interesting to heat sink them and drive them at full power.

[@alext9067]

I think you hit on the answer. It's just a matter of adding up the nominal value for all the LEDs. That makes sense.

[@drruncmd]

Should be bright enough for its intended use though. Plus, LED's running at lower current, will last a lot longer. Depending on that OPTO Isolator chip. Maybe not, not seen them ever run hot. Even when overloaded. The transistor/mosfet in the opto must be generating the heat. Which should not be a problem but given the package size of the opto...who knows.

[@ideasforschoolproject7681]

thank you for this video 👍

[@SianaGearz]

It would have been crazy uneconomical to machine any of those parts as the predominant process. The heatsink should be an extrusion, and yes extrusions can have a texture, because the die is CNC machined, the dish probably stamped, but both slightly machined on a lathe afterwards, probably not taking more than a few seconds.

[@MrBrymstond]

You could replace led's as they go or mount a couple 10 watt COB's.

[@bigclivedotcom]

With the regulated supply it could run three 20/50W style LEDs in series.

[@t0nito]

I'd like to see you converting led lights to 110/120V and testing it with a step down transformer.

[@Darieee]

Twice I angled my head to see the traces better .. anyway glad to see they’re thicccc on this board Clive, you had thhat one 22w 1800lm ikea bulb you said you’d tear down, did you start using it and fell in love with the godly light output too ?

[@gabrielv.4358]

Very Nice

[@tsm688]

Given it's in an actual base, I think this is "incandescent watts" - equivalent brightness of a 65w tungsten filament. Which backfires weirdly as people don't realize they can put 100 "watt" LEDs in 60 real-watt sockets.

[@pyromen321]

I somehow got unsubscribed from this channel... KZbin is at it again

[@bigclivedotcom]

KZbin removed over 2000 subscribers over the last 28 days. That's twice the normal number.

[@pyromen321]

bigclivedotcom, that's insane! I only noticed I was unsubscribed because I thought it was weird that you hadn't uploaded in a while, so I searched for your channel. I wonder how many people who are silently unsubscribed from channels never notice.

[@ChrisandSohee]

Cool Video, Keep up the good work!

[@maicod]

TheDefPom failed putting his meter wires back to volts and blew up the fuse :)

[@bigclivedotcom]

It's very easy done.

[@maicod]

True.

[@Deadite9405]

I think they were trying to say it's a 65W equivalent, not that it was actually 65W, and the translation fell through somewhere.

[@ipissed]

If you set your meter to continuity by default you might cross the leads and use up your battery.

[@rtesimpson]

Look forward to a bit of bigclivedotcom...😀👍

[@julesviolin]

Do a selfie with yer shades on Clive....... I'm seeing ZZ TOP 🤠

[@piperfox74]

Is there still value in rating lamps by wattage instead of by light output? Isn't a lower power consumption with equivalent light output superior?

[@jasondoe2596]

Christopher, yes and no - for photography you also care about the actual *quality* of the light (=spectral content). Incandescent is (and will remain) unsurpassed.

[@piperfox74]

What does power consumption (wattage) have to do with actual light output (luminosity and its spectrum) and whether its source is incandescent or otherwise? If it's possible to generate equivalent quality light output (brightness and spectral content) for lower power consumption (wattage) isn't that objectively better? And therefore, demonstrates that wattage (power consumption) is not a useful metric for a lamp? (At least, not useful when other data is not also provided.)

[@jasondoe2596]

Christopher, so, is that a bunch of rhetorical questions? I think my response was very clear - unlike your original post because the phrase "equivalent light output" is ill-defined, and could very well have meant only the amount of light. BTW, I mistook your original post as an actual question, and didn't think you were only looking for an excuse to be rude. It is fucking obvious that if you could cheaply, reliably and accurately replicate black-body radiation in the visible range (let's say 380nm to 750nm) while keeping the efficiency higher than that of the lowly incandescent light bulbs, you'd have a superior technology, no matter what the marketing material says about its nominal rating. Good fucking luck with that.

[@JasperJanssen]

Jason Doe hey Jason... can the attitude. Your original post wasn’t an honest response to a question, it was an insulting post deliberately missing the point.

[@jasondoe2596]

Apexah, eh, I think you might be misreading the subtext here... I can probably seem to be "quite a dick" when feeling insulted, but at least I express myself openly, not with thinly-veiled contempt and patronising "questions".

[@iamdarkyoshi]

Sixty five watts is the power of your average desktop processor. Now look at the size of the fan cooled heatsinks used in them. Look around on the net for what it takes to get one fanless.

[@peterzingler6221]

Luke Den Hartog different Story a processor produces much more heat

[@frabert]

65W is 65W still

[@Toad_Hugger]

Luke Den Hartog An input of 65 watts doesn't mean that the output in heat will be the same. Also, a processor has to stay within a certain temperature specification, otherwise it will malfunction. You need good cooling to keep it below that threshold.

[@acgandhi]

Francesco Bertolaccini A processor converts all of energy input to heat, while an LED converts most of its energy to light, and only some to heat. Some more efficient LEDs, such as the ones by Cree can have fairly high wattages in small packages (none of these Chinese LEDs are that efficient though).

[@frabert]

Amar Gandhi I would say that cheap chinese LEDs would top out at 10/15% efficiency, which is far from converting "most" of their power into light. So a processor might waste all 65w, a led will waste 60w: the problem still persists

[@andymouse]

I found out about half hour ago that you first coined the phrase "joule thief "......Fuck ! you're a bona fide star......who new?.......(not me for sure)

[@bigclivedotcom]

Yeah, I didn't expect the name to take off like it did.

[@toronz]

I noticed the HOPI showed 64.2kWh annual consumption. That's close to the 65W. Is this common for cheap lamps? Have some Chinese suppliers just misinterpreted (possibly deliberately) the figure that should be shown?

[@seannot-telling9806]

Clive could they be giving the watt equivalent of an incandescent lamp? I would think using a Lux meter and seeing how the output of this one compares a 65W incandescent lamp of the same color temperature.

[@MarkTillotson]

Chinese watts, eBay amps, who knows? Its a lottery as far as I can tell.

[@r-urbex1611]

Clive have you seen they now do 75w driverless cob leds, with a couple of additions to the circuitry?

[@phils4634]

You can get up to 150W driverless COB lights - www.ebay.com.au/itm/Driverless-Smart-IC-Beads-Lamp-AC-220V-100W-White-High-Power-Cob-LED-Chips-DIY. Best price is $11 (US)

[@r-urbex1611]

Phil S nice one mate! I'll be getting some of them to play about with!

[@CanizaM]

The chip appears to be a JD9504S8.

[@EsotericArctos]

I wonder if sometimes these Chinese lamps put the apparent power usage on them. Ie: 65 Watts is the apparent power? Just a random guess.

[@steve-h7z]

I got one of these, it has a fan built into it. 😀

[@raymondj8768]

do you think they mean 60 watt eqivilent to a regular bulb ?

[@two_tier_gary_rumain]

I wonder if they lied about the colour temperature too. That's an odd colour temp. value to have. Not that it matters with modern electronic photographic equipment with in-built white balance. However, the lumen output is what a photographer would mostly be interested in.

[@alext9067]

I don't think the K is off that much if at all for the simple fact that 5600 K is a popular color temp and this is 5500? That's about what direct sunlight is rated at. The thing would be great in a large bank of others for a huge outdoor fill lite. But a reflector would be fine too. I can't quite get the idea of how this thing would be best used. It's not beefy enough for outdoor work by itself, and indoor work would be around 3200 K. I like it though. I'm in the US. Wonder if they have a 120v version.

[@two_tier_gary_rumain]

Colour temperature varies by the time of day and how overcast it is. 5500 K would be quite a blueish white. However, my point was that it was an odd value more than anything else. I grabbed this off some site rather than quote Wiki (they were too long) - "The three primary types of color temperature for light bulbs are: Soft White (2700K - 3000K), Bright White/Cool White (3500K - 4100K), and Daylight (5000K - 6500K). The higher the Degrees Kelvin, the whiter the color temperature."

[@dunc1958]

looks like a die cast body very expensive unless they make millions of them which then of course reduces the costings

[@dunc1958]

indeed! it must be, what I omitted to say was making the die/mould unit initially is very expensive but producing the actual die casting is relatively cheap........provided the quantity is sufficient to cover the initial cost

[@kevinoconnell1354]

Test a Viltrox video light panel!!

[@avejst]

Thanks for sharing :-)

[@makoveliprod]

The heatsink looks too small to dissipate a 22 watts. Probably, leds works at about 80-90°C temperature and die quickly.

[@jimmyyorkshire4495]

Got a guy in IT at my spot called Clive, do not fuck with the Clive. He can make or break you.

[@toddoroi4947]

Edison screw, so no ground, exposed metal heat sink, board referenced to mains screwed directly to it, sounds like China alright.

[@jonathanhillebrand4904]

Are they putting the wattage that it is supposed to replace?

[@jasondoe2596]

Kaiser Wilhem II, 100W incandescent is laughably low for studio lighting though...

[@shoulders-of-giants]

You should really *name your videos according to the product* , so people can find the videos to double-check before they buy.

[@bradleymorgan8223]

I always thought the power rating on led lamps like this was given for the equivalent brightness incandescent lamp..

[@andruloni]

In this case it's closer to combined ratings of the LEDs than any of the two values you mentioned

[@gelisob]

If one would wish to have tiny FADE such led when turning on and off, so that it would not be so sudden (spin up and down 0.5sec?) - is it doable with some not idiotic size and price capacitor mod? Or lets say for 10w similar lamp.

[@diggerdanielg752]

How about it puts out light like it is a 65 WATT non-LED light?

[@channelsixtysix066]

Shame that such a good quality heatsink eventually goes to waste when the lamp eventually fails. Better to try to fix it, if possible.

[@jonjohnson1259]

Its nice to see one of these that doesn't use a capacitive droper I'm not sure but is that circuit a buck regulator??

[@bigclivedotcom]

It is a line powered buck regulator.

[@matt.604]

Better your desk too bright, Clive. Not like Julian's perpetually dark videos.

[@ElmerFuddGun]

Most of the time I find Julian's videos just fine. Although there was one several months ago that he had some LEDs flashing very annoyingly off to the side. Many complained and I haven't seen it since. I'll have to watch for "perpetual" darkness next time.

[@Polite_Cat]

i havent watched julian in a couple of months. i sort of got bored after a while.. i felt like his content declined a bit. i still see his dislike ratio isnt always too good.. havent watched in a while though. im sure i will

[@chrissalch693]

I have a theory. Across the pond, we sometimes see lamps labeled in their equivalent incandescent wattage. So you may see a bulb labeled as a 65W equivalent bulb meaning that it has the same output as a 65W incandescent. Any chance that could be the case here and the seller is really really bad at english? I'm guessing you don't have an old filament bulb laying for comparison but the average lumen numbers for that class of filament bulb should be available if you have a way to measure the led unit. Of course, they probably are deliberately misrepresenting the wattage, but that may be their reasoning.

[@chrissalch693]

Based on the numbers your describing, the buld you have would fight with replacing a 65~70 halogen give or take a bit. www.thelightbulb.co.uk/resources/lumens_watts/

[@blobby273]

I always thought the wattage rating in led lights was was a supposed equivalent brightness to an ordinary bulb rather than the actual wattage output

[@andruloni]

The thing with Chineseium like this the rating doesn't mach neither of them

[@unclaimedstorage]

Got more fins than a Cadillac

[@luckym0nk3y]

Dude... A fish has more fins than a caddilac

[@AdmiralPreparedness]

Some Chinese manufactures are honest in their product advertisements..... Just kidding!!!!

[@peterzingler6221]

Admiral Preparedness when it come to drone parts they Not lying a little Bit ! They can make good Stuff and still ne cheap but people Always want super cheap

[@WineScrounger]

Only when it says “disposable”

[@Motolav]

It might be 65W equivalent just not stated so

[@evilcanofdrpepper]

Yeah, its probably a 65 watt equivalent and the translation dropped the equivalent portion of it. I wish I could get a job proofreading chinglish translations, that would be endlessly entertaining...

[@RWBHere]

Would photographers use something as dim as 60 Watt filament lamps? The ones I often saw were 150 Watt, with maximum run times of two minutes. They always looked as though they were 110V lamps being over-driven at 240V. Maybe they really were!

[@twocvbloke]

Ah chinese watts, they definitely use a different system over there... :P

[@WineScrounger]

twocvbloke see also fisherman’s inches

[@jimschofield8734]

In the video the domey bit looks turned...? Including inside the circuit board enclosure bit. Whereas the heatsink looks like an extrusion. It might be glued or just bolted together via those screws?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Three screws hold the PCB and it's housing onto the extrusion.

[@ColtaineCrows]

While not relevant to the video this seems like the sort of place to ask; I've been looking for a simple to use preferably free wiring diagram drawing software and I'm curious if anyone here has any recommendations. EDIT: Forgot word "drawing"

[@phils4634]

I used to use a freeware program called DanCAD. That was pretty excellent, and was capable of handling double-sided boards too (automatically inserted vias where needed). Might be worth visiting www.electroschematics.com/2249/pcb-design-software/

[@ColtaineCrows]

Thanks, I think I'll try TinyCAD for a while, seems to do what I need.

[@phils4634]

If you are into 3D Printing, and using Blender, TinyCAD is available as an add-on. Quite a good package, and it has the advantage of being able to edit existing (i.e. imported) files. sourceforge.net/projects/tinycad/

[@andrewcurtin7003]

So not an electrician But didnt you say that sticking your probes int a mains socket would blow the meter? You said the leds where live at mains when plugged in, so why is your meter not sploded?

[@bigclivedotcom]

If the meter is set to AC voltage it's fine. If the leads are in the current position it will short the supply. Cheap meters shouldn't be used for mains work as they do not have suitable protection.

[@jayare1933]

Clive, just posting this on here because I know you will respond. You use spudgers frequently. Do you buy them or make them, and if you were going to make one what would you use? My thumbnails will thank you!

[@bigclivedotcom]

The best spudger I've used had been the iSesamo. It's the correct grade, quality and thickness to have lasted years of use. Others have snapped, kinked and crumpled in a few uses. The curved tip is slightly ground with a narrow edge.

[@rashel1262]

What part does the voltage dropping from 230volt mains to 100volt operating voltage ?? Please excuse my question.

[@bigclivedotcom]

The control chip meters pulses of current through the inductor.

[@robertleifeld225]

They did not lie about the power rating on the LED light, they used American nomenclature: Example, when I purchase LED light bulbs at Wallyworld (Walmart) I look for "60" watt or "75" Watt or "100" watt bulbs because that is what I am accustomed to buying with the old incandescent lamps. I know how bright those are (were) and I want something of similar brightness, really don't care about the actual power consumption, I just want something like I used to have. I am holding a LED lamp package, and marked in LARGE BOLD type, "60" watt and in mice type, it tells me "Actual Power Consumption 9 watts. So you folks on the Isle of "Persons" need to look at these things with North America eyeballs.

[@maicod]

now you're Clive Orbison

[@Tom-ll7xu]

Looks like the disc could be pressed

[@jasejj]

Always amuses me that these Chinese manufacturers spend such effort making a really nice aluminium case for bulbs that usually last 3 weeks...

[@computernerdinside]

You short out the capacitor almost every time. And for good reason. But has there ever been a time where you forgot to and got a shock?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Yes, plenty.

[@computernerdinside]

bigclivedotcom never has it happened on video? Always appears to be discharged already.

[@PhilXavierSierraJones]

The company name is very likely to be read as "Lee-eh too" though... But they didn't lie about the "LIE" part!

[@phonotical]

I'd never use that for photography, not bright enough and it's led which could strobe and cause an odd colour cast, is use halogen any day

[@Petertronic]

Yes, they are pretty much standard LED lights being aimed at the photography market

[@phonotical]

Doug Reed probably more bad experience and personal preference

[@jasondoe2596]

Wouldn't a "driverless" circuit be completely inappropriate for photography? So I wouldn't expect that. Incandescent filament takes time to cool down, but with LEDs there's no such "inertia" and you'd get 100Hz / 120 Hz flickering (assuming rectification) which is absolutely horrible for studio work - since it is too close to the most commonly used shutter speeds (often 1/125 or 1/250 or so, due to mechanical constraints of actual, non-electronic shutters).

[@jasondoe2596]

PS. As a (shitty) amateur photographer, I couldn't click fast enough! I wouldn't trust LEDs yet, though... Insufficient spectral content :) (hey, better than CFLs, which are an absolute photographic nightmare and a very tiring *literal* eyesore as far as I'm concerned ;)

[@user-ki3yl3pc9b]

7 pin chip? or the 8th pin is hidden/broken

[@bigclivedotcom]

These devices often miss a pin for electrical separation between the drain and source.

[@maicod]

you measured 100 volts so 140 volts is dropped right ? so that would be 140V/30 chips=4,6V so maybe 2 LEDS per chip ?

[@bigclivedotcom]

100 volts measured across 30 pairs. So 3.,3V per LED.

[@maicod]

Ok got that wrong :) So they are single LED chips then

[@pufferfish0101]

65kw/h is probably where they got the number from

[@testdriver3146]

I have taken as a rule to always divide the effect by 3 to get a fair number of the things I buy from Chinese manufacturers. Alibaba, Aliexpress etc are full of lamps and stereos with ridiculously inflated effects. They make for a good laugh though!

[@anthonygunby1319]

Hi Clive can it be used for photography, where can I get one and do you recommend it :-)

[@bigclivedotcom]

I couldn't guess how useful it might be in pro photography.

[@Polite_Cat]

can someone explain to me how a lot of these lamp circuits have LEDs in them but are like 100 volts or so? how are LEDs at such a high voltage without blowing up? Usually LEDs are around 3 volts or so.. is it because the current is so low? Could i take a traditional LED and limit the amperage so i could put 100V through it?

[@bigclivedotcom]

They use long strings of LEDs in series like Xmas lights to keep the current low.