Installing A Water Chiller In A Laser Engraver Cutter CW-5000/CW-5200

When owning a Laser Cutter Engraver it's important to keep the water that circulates through the tube cool. Keeping the water cool enough is important in prolonging the tube life, which in turn saves you money. Don't be confused between the CW-3000 and the CW-5000/CW-5200 chiller for your laser cutter. It's important to get a genuine S&A water chiller! I've linked to the one I used in the video below.
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TOOLS / MATERIALS
■ S&A Genuine CW-5200DH (5200DG upgraded) Industrial Water Chiller 6L Capacity Cooling Water for 80W-150W CO2 Engraving Cutting Machine : amzn.to/2MJUse0
■ Orion Motor Tech 60w Chinese Laser Cutter Engraver : amzn.to/31K0TEc
Or cheaper on ebay (not as good for returns though)
ebay.to/2DkaQic
■ 30mA Voltmeter Gauge : amzn.to/2YMFpFL
■ 6 Inch 390 CFM Inline Duct Fan : amzn.to/2Td9daK
■ Ruida RD644S Controller : bit.ly/ruidardc644s
Lightburn Software : lightburnsoftware.com
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[@thebeststooge]

Good a real S&A as I own a 5200 from them and no issues.

[@MyersWoodshop]

gotta get the read deal!

[@thebeststooge]

@Legend Andre Pro tip, go fuck yourself bot.

[@sergiobarajas9092]

WOW i learned the hard way!! This is essential, I've just burned out my laser due to improper cooling. After doing much research and ordering a new $350 dll 80W laser tube, I've decided I needs this chiller. Thanks for sharing !!

[@MyersWoodshop]

Yes it does! Glad it helped!

[@paultakoy7091]

I just watched your video on installing the ammeter and this one on the chiller. Great job. Thank you for sharing. The alarm on the frfont of the chiller is connected to the flow meter inside. If you pinch off one of the supply tubes to the laser the alarm will go off, warning you that there is a problem with the flow. Please only pinch off the tube to test the alarm with the laser POWERED OFF.

[@MyersWoodshop]

thanks for that info!

[@henryhartsfield4574]

My black and yellow laser will be delivered tomorrow! Also ordered the S&A 5200 so nice to see someone already putting all this together. Keep up the videos

[@MyersWoodshop]

Glad I could hlep!

[@randysarmiento8842]

I have machine today should a change setting to factory settings and change some of the F keys.

[@CoupleofBunkies]

We have a 3000 for our 40w we are very impressed with it

[@RoadstarRider1]

Another great Video, thanks!

[@MyersWoodshop]

Thanks tim!

[@hecope]

Awesome info, thanks

[@dewdude90]

quality content as always.

[@MyersWoodshop]

thank you!

[@smokeystover8959]

Does a industrial like this cool water better then an 1/3hp aquarium chiller? I haven’t found any good comparison specifications. Aquarium chillers describe cooling in HP and industrial describes in wattage and btu/hr.

[@blewprent]

So are you supposed to continuously run the chiller or do you just cut it on when the laser is in use? Does it sense the temp of the tube in order to know when to kick on??

[@ErickTiki]

I noticed your blocking part of the inlet to the fresh air with that other table...also I would have (if I made the chiller) put the temp guage on the back or put the water guage on the front....since the temp guage is easier to move I would move the temp guage to the back and flip the unit around so I can see all the water levels....just my observations....great unit and great video.

[@aarontafoya297]

Thanks, just bought a barley used FL1380 laser engraver with cw5000 chiller. Just tested the water flow because my laser tube isn’t firing. We knew it worked before we moved it so maybe I did something wrong when I tried making it work not knowing the laser tube was 4 inches away from the mirror vs 3-4 centimeters. I noticed a good burn mark on the access panel plate arg! Not sure if this happens to most people trying to align their tube and mirrors? Should it have burned out the laser tube from being to far away? Anyways, if you know a good source for help on this problem shooting please lmk? Thank you 🙏🏽

[@martyvreede6355]

Hi there I have the same S and A Chiller but run a 130 Watt laser. I had a friend translate running temperatures off the Chinese internet for S&A 5000 series. We investigated as we had an ambient cooler which was not doing the job. (wrong one) We chewed through 3 x 130 watt tubes in 18 months. If these CO 2 lasers operate over 20 degrees C they start to self destruct. Optimum temperature is operational below 20 C and above 10C ( as below that you can strike condition a where water condenses in the tube with equally bad results) We now have had 10 months of use 5 days a week with no degradation of cutting times for the period. We run ours at 16 C and your booklet tells you how to set it . Cheers marty ( New Zealand)

[@MyersWoodshop]

thanks for the tip!

[@invaziq]

Ok but how to connect alarm outlet from the chiller to the machine when most machines don`t have water protection alarm line ?

[@Soundwavesprodjs]

Thank you for making this video! I’ve been so stressed out how to set this up, because the laser I bought has the worlds worst instruction manual.

[@MyersWoodshop]

Glad I could help!

[@bs-tech.solutions]

The alarm port is a closed circuit relay output that is triggered whenever the chillers internal alarm sounds. It has three pins on the output socket, pin 1 is leftmost and is common, pin 2 is lower-center and shorted to pin 1 only during an alert condition and pin 3 to the right is shorted with pin 1 during normal operation. This allows you to pass a signal, low level power or similar through the port to use the chiller as a switch to control that circuit based on the chiller being in an alarm state. This detail is in the manual if you google "CW-5200 manual", page 10. If you really wanted to it should be possible for you to hookup feedback to the Laser Cutter's controller for example to trigger an emergency stop or 'door' stop condition in the advent of the chiller being in an alert condition. A cursory glance at the Ruida RD644 manual suggests that there are two 'water protection' circuits available on the controller WaterProtect1 WP1 on CN5 and WaterProtect2 on CN6. If one is currently being used by the flow sensor the other may be available to be wired to the chiller alert circuit or could be wired in series. Overall however if the chiller were to stop pumping water during an alert condition the flow sensor would cut out and the laser power would be cut off anyway. If it doesn't cease pumping then it might be interesting to attempt to combine the chiller alert together with the flow detector for a protection circuit, potentially combining them in series to provide the input to the controller for the WP1 input.

[@MyersWoodshop]

yep, i'm not gonna wire it up.

[@Zarathustra-H-]

Could someone explain why you would need a unit capable of handling 1500+w (depending on room temperature and temperature settings) to chill an 80w laser? it seems like it is orders of magnitude over-powered for the task, unless I am missing something?

[@JasonNeri]

Alarm wiring is diagrammed and noted in the booklet. H1,H2,H3 outputs are noted with which ones have output when in alarm. I haven't connected mine up yet to check voltage output, but my guess is that it's either 5v or 12v , but based on the wording of the manual, could be full voltage at 5Amps...and basically you can trigger a slew of things... Connect to a pi that texts you if there is an issue, output to a camera system that turns on a camera based on a trigger, etc. Or just a little light at your desk so you can see there is an issue if your laser isn't in the same room.

[@CommunityToursAustralia]

Thanks for this nice tutorial bro

[@MyersWoodshop]

Thank yoU!

[@JTLaser1]

Love the LASER videos! Just a walk down memory lane. This looks like a pretty decent machine, the only advice I could give would be to keep your optics CLEAN! CLEAN! CLEAN! Those are likely to be your biggest expense secondary to the tube, and the most easily damaged. Methanol and lens tissues. Not the alcohol used in the home, it will leave residue. On the alarm port I'm guessing that it's there so that the chiller can trigger any variety of signaling devices if you're severely overtemp. The LASER should shut down automatically, but you can't be too careful. Thanks for the videos!

[@claudiumoldovan1871]

It may sound stupid but is really important for me, that chiller is good enough to keep nice and cool a high end gaming pc?

[@MuhammadAmin-ee6se]

Need some help. I am using 5000 but there is a problem. Normal light gets never on and red alarm light and buzzer is ringing all the time. Many times i have reset it but no solution. Can you guide me ??

[@blewprent]

What is the difference between this one and the Omtech 5200 chiller?

[@denistiao]

Hi, The set of available electrical contacts on the water chiller is attached to a water flow switch inside of the water chiller. This switch will close contact when there are either one of the bellow four possible faults happening in the water system: 1 - Blocked cooling water circulation loop 2 - Alarm of water shortage 3- Faulted circulating pump 4- Power interruption You can either use this switch in your Tube Power Supply or your mainboard. If you are using Ruida, It says in the manual that you can use the water protection on Channel 5 or 6 depending on how many laser tubes you have in your machine. If it is 1, your tube is wired up in the channel 5. If your mainboard isn't that smart, you will use these available contacts on the chiller wired up on the Tube Power Supply. Anyways, it can be used in different ways. Thanks for the Video.

[@MyersWoodshop]

great info! Thanks.

[@johnstratairious7936]

yeah...I'm putting you on my Facebook....because you're awesome. you finally answered the question I've had for 2 years. the question was.....did the CW 5000 actually have a refrigerant inside to really cool the water? the Chinese description is VAGUE.

[@end3dp]

Did you ground the chiller? I could not find the ground wire in my chiller.

[@gayusschwulius8490]

I will use this for a completely different purpose (distillation cooling in a chem lab), but thanks for the great overview anyways, lol

[@creativespaceacademyplc]

So How long did the tube last?

[@phils744]

Hello everyone, I've got a cw-5200 unit, going to use it to chill my work area. No manual, I'd like to know if running antifreeze where you'd put water will hurt the pump or cause a different issue. Very new to this system, thanks for any information. Stay safe everyone. Phil

[@MyersWoodshop]

I'm no expert, but i think it would be fine.

[@joeycast]

Wondering about antifreeze. I live in a pretty cold climate in the winter, though I would have the room warmed up before actually running the machine. Any thoughts on running it with RV water system antifreeze or something similar?

[@FerralVideo]

By what I was able to understand of the manual, "non-corrosive antifreeze" is fine.

[@christismith580]

dumb question: on my laser machine there is in an inlet and outlet. on the chiller there is a inlet and outlet. do I connect to inlet to inlet and outlet to outlet or the inlet on the laser to the outlet on the chiller? my directions that came with the chiller doesn't explain it

[@MyersWoodshop]

Inlet to outlet

[@mesheshahoutstra9404]

What is the minimum temperature setting on this device? And the distilled water is only for the laser tube, or also to protect the chiller ( instead of regular tap water)?

[@FerralVideo]

By default, the minimum temperature is 20C. However, you can enter setup mode for the thermostat and lower this. My understanding is that the machine itself will run fine on whatever you put through it, but distilled water will minimize "crud" building up in sensitive places. Especially the laser tube and the heat exchanger in the chiller. These things are expensive on both accounts, so it's better to be safe.

[@sergiovv]

hello, you said on the video, the temperatures outside are on the uppers 100F, but you keep your shop at around 75, but when you leave the shop do you leave the ac on,?..my concern its can we leave the chiller and the laser with ac off, when temperatures are high?

[@MyersWoodshop]

Yep, I leave the air/heat on all year. It will be fine, you'll just need to leave the chiller on until it cools down the water.

[@Boydegravesvlogs]

Can in it pump water up 9 10 fet

[@joeycast]

Do you happen know if the blue chillers on the OMTech site are S&A genuine? They appear to not be branded as such, but I would assume OMTech has sourced them.

[@bedyliu3532]

We are the Hanli water chiller from China,also good quality

[@Paul-gz5dp]

Good choice on getting a refrigerated cooler. Also hope you are using DI water.

[@MyersWoodshop]

we are

[@Paul-gz5dp]

@@MyersWoodshop One other thing is to have a bag of mixed media (anion and cation) as that will keep the water from conducting electricity over time. As water picks up ions from the air and anything that it is in contact with. Pure water is an insulator, that is until it picks up enough ions. The beads can also be purchased in a DI filter that goes inline with your return water (amazon has these). Also great that the system has a flow switch, as some systems only have a pressure switch such as in plasma welding and cutting. Also if you ever want to discharge the system so that you can work on the hot wire or tube, take a metal film resistor such as 5 watt or more and 10K to 100K and use that to discharge the high voltage. Directly shorting the output even when off could cause damage due to a high current pulse that occurs from an arc. Also there are special insulating sprays such as Glyptal . Also there are special silicone based materials as well. I mention this if you smell ozone as it will cause damage to the equipment in addition to you. This is obvious from the smell, blue corona discharge, and hissing sound. Main thing is keeping dust out of the power supply area and from around the tube. This comes from working around high voltage, and plasma welding and cutting and also working with lasers since the mid 1990's.

[@farawaythrower]

Was considering using one of these for some extreme overclocking... these look super generic and seem to be everywhere so I wasnt confident about their reliability or performance

[@RathOX]

I just went for the rebranded Alphacool version lol

[@t0cableguy]

The connector on the machine is a dry contact for connecting to the shutdown sequence in the laser to prevent it from running if it detects no flow H1 common H2 Normally Closed (closed when flow is not good) H3 Normally open (closed when flow is good) You could put this inline with the estop circuit, or you could find a point that is designed into the machine. Without the schematics on the laser machine (they aren't on OMS's website) I couldn't tell you were a good place to add that in would be. I'm not sure why the plugs on the back of the laser cutter cant be used, if the wiring is 14 ga you should be more than sufficient, and then the laser cutter can fully control those functions instead of them running unless you turn them off.

[@MyersWoodshop]

thanks

[@RickGreenPhoto]

1.58 gallons...Do you guys have any operating temperature data ?

[@funone8716]

Any guess as to how much pressure these can provide? Want one for a TIG welding torch, need around 35psi.

[@alicelaser7542]

The CW-5200TI with 110W pump delivers max 36psi pressure

[@peterg902]

HI, whats the ID (Inner diameter) of the water pipe that it requires?

[@mesaman3000]

Thank you for this video, We have ordered this chiller with our new tube (burnt the old one out!)... Do you have or know of a source for the silicone tubing to run between the laser and the chiller? ours has turned brown and dried out.

[@MyersWoodshop]

www.epiloglaser.com/resources/industry-links-materials.htm

[@SirHodges]

I'm late on this, but check a homebrew or wine store. They have tonnes for hot beer transfers.

[@_JustBeingCasual]

Did you blow inside your watercooling loop? I do not suggest that because your are contaminating your system.

[@terrybrockhoff8168]

Hi, Does the 5200 chiller have its own pump or do you need to still use the pump from the laser.

[@MyersWoodshop]

it IS the pump, no extra pump needed.

[@chrisw1462]

How fast did the fish tank heat up? I'm wondering if a couple computer-style water-cooling three-fan radiators would be enough.

[@MyersWoodshop]

i can't give specifics, but a ice pack in the water turned to normal temp in about an hour.

[@glennmartonic6376]

been there done that...waste of money and time....5 gallon bucket and ice once in awhile to do your jobs...or active (not passive) chiller

[@maserbi6526]

Please help me how I must setting my chiller CW-5000 it have along time not work

[@MyersWoodshop]

i just use auto settings.

[@granthultman2914]

SWEET! Are you going to run “M#” on/off commands for the cooler?

[@MyersWoodshop]

No, because I don’t know what that is 😉😂😂

[@granthultman2914]

M0 commands a stop for tool changes. While I don't have a chiller or coolant needs (YET!) one could utilize the M8 Turn Coolant On, M9 Turn Coolant Off.

[@MyersWoodshop]

ah...now it makes sense! I'm using the chiller on my laser, not my cnc! no M commands because it's not gcode based! :P

[@Paul-gz5dp]

M and G codes are used with some cooling such as HAAS, and even MACH3. It must be programmed into the controller and operate the outlet on the side. However to do that it would need the chiller to have a remote interface and that remote interface connected to the contacts on a relay plugged into the power strip on the side of the machine. With the cooler it i better to leave it running between cuts, and same with the water pump in the cooler. Also the pump and cooler should run at least 5 minutes after last cut before turning it off to stabilize the temperature and avoid hot spots and damage that could crack the tube. Other than physical damage due to uneven temperatures or impact. The only other thing is the electrodes in the tube wearing out over time and as a result the metal depositing on other parts of the tube resulting in dark spots and loss of power that will show up as a higher voltage across the tube and a lower current. There is a more expensive tube that uses RF power instead of DC to ionize the gasses, and as such they require maintenance such as a vacuum pump and gas source. The sealed tube is the best for low cost over time, just keeping the dust off of it is important. Use dry air to blow off dust, and a lint free cloth to wipe if needed. Alignment of the mirror is critical so it is best not to touch them as a fingerprint will cause problems.

[@fredslawson7259]

I wonder if you could rig up a dorm fridge to do this. Put a container with a sump pump in it and run your tubing out one of the walls and to your laser and back. Keep it on all night to cool it down.

[@chartle1]

I think I've read it doesn't have enough cooling power.

[@MyersWoodshop]

true, but i didn't want a diy hack job.

[@mariaschildress]

i just bought a 100w laser from ebay but the seller did not send a converter/transformer step down to 120v, what do you recommend buying on amazon .. thanks

[@MyersWoodshop]

no clue. sorry man.

[@johns2926]

Maria Childress Run 220V from an open slot in your breaker panel. You would use less amps. Pretty easy and straight forward project if you have an opening in your panel

[@jav9888]

Wish they made a 2 in 1 Chiller/Heater for us in the Colder Canadian Climates. So we dont need to make further upgrades.

[@BobGarrett66]

You have an RD644S controller listing in your links above. Did you have reason to change out the controller that came with your purchase? I appreciate the content and have subbed. Oh, and I could be wrong but I think the alarm setup on the back of the chiller is so you could run an external alarm to other room. Let’s say you have a building with 4 rooms and you want to have an alarm in the office you could monitor when you’re not right next to the laser/chiller.

[@MyersWoodshop]

Thanks Bob. That's the only Ruida Controller Amazon has so that's what i linked. They're similar enough to the one in my machine. I wouldnt change out a ruida for a ruida. I would change out another brand for a ruida!

[@jjames3793]

the output for the alarm could be used like you described esp if someone's machine already has a water protection switch installed already which most do have already and wired to the controller so that if there is any interruption to the water it will stop the laser regardless of if the chillers water protection switch is hooked up to anything or not. so for a lot of people, it very well may be a much better option to wire up some sort of alarm to the chillers alarm circuit. so they will know if they have a situation on their hands if the alarm is triggered. Or the wires to the alarm could even be wired to the back of the digital controllers hi or low temp alarm hook ups so that it will trigger an alarm if the temp gets to high or to low. or even so it would trigger the water protection stop so someones laser dont burn up if its got water but not being cooled by the chiller.

[@G_Cs]

I agree that the external alarm would also be handy to hook up to the controller. Also if you have a job that will take a while, and in the meantime, you might like to go back into the house where you would not hear the regular alarm, having one on the outside of the building or wired back to the house might be handy.

[@celemasri7523]

What is the name of the water you should use to the chiller?

[@MyersWoodshop]

distilled water.

[@markgrimm3564]

do you know if this machine will cut natural mother of pearl.i'm looking at one but thats mostly what i'll be doing with it .if ya don't know could i send ya some and have ya try it .its for building guitars headstock logos

[@MyersWoodshop]

I move never worked with it. Yeah if you send me a sample I can test it and let you know

[@lonniehowell2360]

I'd be more worried about the heat flaking or cracking the mother of pearl. As Myers said, testing is warranted

[@steschtec2051]

Alarms are most NC connections. Then you can "Network" with the Laser for signalizeing at the Laser-Cutter-Display: "Error Cooling". it is possible to place the cooler outside and then you have no control about the cooling failures. The connection is possibly at 2-wire (loop-back; NC, Normaly Close.). Stand it outside, Connect it and "feel" the silent! :-) Greetings from Switzerland (CH).. Mostli the nighbour dosant like the sound.. :-) Sorry about my English, i ame Swiss-German....

[@MyersWoodshop]

thanks for the info!

[@csorrows]

Never apologize for not speaking a second language very well. Most people can't even speak their native language properly. Your English is quite good BTW.

[@parker1ray]

I have a CW 1000W! It is a plastic tube with freezer packs! LOL

[@kevinkeelan354]

Would this work with a rotary evaporator?

[@MyersWoodshop]

dont see why not.

[@p.stroker8920]

What is the cooling capacity (in watts) does this unit have?

[@MyersWoodshop]

i don't know.

[@FerralVideo]

It depends on the ambient temperature and the setpoint. The officially published performance curves by S&A indicate that optimally, if you are holding the water at 30C in a 20C room, it can dissipate up to 1400W of heat. Conversely, demanding that it hold 20C water in a 30C room, it'll be able to maintain 1100W of cooling.

[@aymananas2961]

The Best Working Temperature 10-35℃ ≤0℃:Pour ethyl alcohol into the water chiller not more than1/4 of the chiller’s volume. pls till me if this ok or not?????

[@markgearing]

So, the chiller is twice the price of a 60W tube. How much does it increase the life of a tube. Or, put otherwise, how many tubes do you need to buy before this thing pays for itself? I’m guessing lots.

[@MyersWoodshop]

Two tubes. If not properly chilled they could go out after two weeks. Chiller is VERY important

[@G_Cs]

@@MyersWoodshop >"Two tubes. If not properly chilled they could go out after two weeks. Chiller is VERY important" I would add that the downtime would not be something that you want to deal with, or the time to replace the tube even if you had a stack of backups ready. I agree the Chiller is a good choice.

[@glennmartonic6376]

use 45W spt tube from lightobject.com... or bigger wattage tube....ive been regretting getting an "active" chiller for awhile now...$$$. so i have a temp guage in bucket...when temp gets too high....throw in some ice.....i run a lot of jobs on my laser...some an hour long....monitor the temp...add ice....tube has been great for 3 years now... no power loss.

[@men8475]

How to refill water cooler?

[@MyersWoodshop]

It's closed loop so you shouldn't have to, but there is a cap on the top you just twist off.

[@jjames3793]

just FYI on getting the one that cost about $60 more to have fitings on the ac lines so it can be recharged if something ever goes wrong down the road. If anything causes any refrigerant to leak you cant just recharge the system and fix it without first fixing whatever causes a refrigerant leak in the first place. or else you will still have a leak and will lose refrigerant. also working with refrigerants and having all the necessary equipment to vacuum and then recharge a refrigeration system is not stuff that most home diy's tend to have laying around or know how to do properly. and if they do then they would also already know how easy it is to add recharge ports or a self-piercing sadel when they are repairing whatever caused the leak. so thats something most people could save themselves 60 by not getting the extra thing that will very very unlikely anyone would ever have to deal with down the road. short of dropping it and breaking it. changes are no one's going to do anything to there chiller that would cause a refrigerant leak and if they did its going to end up costing a lot more money to have someone come in and repair it.

[@MyersWoodshop]

Makes sense. lets just hope we never have to find out!

[@FerralVideo]

I'm an HVAC nerd, so "having service ports" is something that I like the idea of, even if I know they're not going to be very practical. What's MORE practical though, that Myers failed to mention, is that the 5200 has a higher capacity. The 5000 has a capacity of 3000 BTUs, while the 5200 has a capacity of 5000. (Or close enough, I rounded a little.)

[@TheHockey286]

Hi Guys!! I love tour work and videos! I have the same cw5000 chilleer but when i start the chilleer the light normal is Orange, no Green and the water don't run. You know what i have to do? Thanks so much!

[@MyersWoodshop]

Not sure

[@pedrocaballero1497]

Does this laser engrave/cut through any type of metal?

[@MyersWoodshop]

No

[@Paul-gz5dp]

Not with 60w, most lasers that cut metal are 1kw or more, and require lots of maintenance. Also keep in mind that reflective metals such as Gold, copper, aluminum, and so forth can't be cut with a laser. The mirrors in such a system are gold plated as it is the best reflector of the 10.6uM wavelength. If you are looking for something in a small shop to cut metal plasma is the way to go in the home, and better than that is waterjet and EDM. Also keep in mind that at best 25% of the electric power is converted into laser output. Meaning lots of power.

[@csorrows]

@@Paul-gz5dp Did you say you can't cut aluminum and copper with a laser? Maybe not this type of laser but you can in fact cut them with a laser. Try not to spread incorrect info as the internet is full enough already of misinformation.

[@Paul-gz5dp]

@@csorrows Have you worked with a laser? They work by heating up the metal and blowing the puddle out with compressed gas. If the metal is too reflective it does not work. If you can't understand this you don't know what the process is, and there is a reason for disinformation it is for sales and economic and military interests. Why so high and mighty? do you get off kicking people that are having memory problems due to brain damage from a criminal attack and are not really good at all for working in the field anymore due to injuries? I'm not able to get disability due to these people that would prefer me dead and you are just another punk far as I'm concerned I really don't care about lasers or anything else anymore at this point in my life. So quick kicking at me from your ivory tower. I'm in too much pain to deal with it or look up much of anything at this point.

[@csorrows]

@@Paul-gz5dp Wow, I don't need the sob story from you. As far as i know, you are only on here looking for attention. Yes, you can cut aluminum with a laser and yes I have run laser cutters prior. I have first hand seen a fiber laser cut through aluminum. The cut is somewhat rough as the molten aluminum does like to puddle, but it can be done. Going all rabbid in a reply is not going to make yourself look very good. None of that background was needed. There is no reason I need to know your "medical condition". There is a big world out there man with lots of different tech. There is no room for you to think something can't be done because you have not seen it.

[@TopCutCNC]

Whats name the application into your phone

[@MyersWoodshop]

ruida app

[@McFlysGarage]

The auto mode on these chillers sucks honestly. We found a video on KZbin on how to set it to manual so we can set it manually since auto kept it too high

[@MyersWoodshop]

good to know.

[@miras.6761]

20 degree is hot ^^ no?

[@Arckivio]

You don't need a CW-3000 o4 a CW-5000 that have laser written on them, any aquarium chiller will do & probably cheaper as they've been around longer than laser chillers. If you can't afford a chiller, fans blowing on the surface of your tank water will actually cool it quite a bit but causes evaporation as that's what's doing the cooling. Just top it up

[@MyersWoodshop]

you do if you are in a dusty wood shop.

[@Arckivio]

@@MyersWoodshop Dusty workshop applies to the fans as evaporation would need the tank to be uncovered but an aquarium chiller isn't much different to your laser chiller. Just needs a separate pump & would still be cheaper

[@glennmartonic6376]

been there done that...try running a long raster job with your setup.....ice in your bucket when temp gets too high or chiller only way to go

[@shricreations3813]

u didn't shown about inlet & outlet pipe...

[@MyersWoodshop]

eh, it just says in and out

[@tonycarrington4426]

the outlet on the chiller goes to the inlet on the laser machine then the outlet on the laser machine goes to the inlet of the chiller....so basically there's a loop ;-)

[@shricreations2655]

@@tonycarrington4426 tq so much

[@AndTheCorrectAnswerIs]

Everything I have read says you don't need a chiller for anything less than an 80W tube. I have owned a 50W laser for 8yrs and have never used a chiller. I have monitored the temp change of my 5gal cooling water bucket and it only goes up a few degrees over a couple hours of use time. I still have the same tube (I don't overdrive it) and it is still outputting 25W after all these years (good enough for what I do). I'll probably buy another tube this year. Also, I have never used anything but regular tap water.

[@MyersWoodshop]

i've read the opposite. Id rather be safe than sorry.

[@glennmartonic6376]

LMAO....not possible....not even using ice?...just water?....where do you live...antactica?

[@AndTheCorrectAnswerIs]

@@glennmartonic6376 I live in Ohio, USA. My laser is in an upstairs room that can get pretty warm during Summer. I left the original comment about a year ago, and STILL haven't replaced the original tube. The 50W lasers from China are probably really 40-45W in reality when new. My tube is now putting out 23 watts. I have a laser power measuring meter. I rarely run my laser more than 1-2hrs a day, but run it almost every day.

[@glennmartonic6376]

pretty good BS if you ask me

[@johnstratairious7936]

here is another link for your temp settings on your chiller and how to do it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYnbfmuOecegndE

[@markgearing]

That water level gauge is really badly placed. Why wouldn’t they put it on the front next to the other indicators? Bad design.

[@MyersWoodshop]

yeah, would be much nicer on the front!

[@glennmartonic6376]

@@MyersWoodshop how bout the connections on same side as power plug....bad idea

[@CwoodFPV]

that looks like a man that knows how to siphon a gas tank. LOL jk great video guys

[@beezalbub7325]

Why did you remove the water from the laser, unplug one line from the fish tank pump attach it to the chiller repeat and done. Also 20° C is about 68 F so close enough to your room temperature, so I bet a 10 ggv Allen fish tank vs a 1.8 gallon chiller stays within 4 or 5 degrees. If you want chilled buy a used refrigerator off of craigslist (probably a hundred to 150 bucks) some longer hose a few holes a little silicone caulk and you have real chilled water plus cold soda for the kids and cold beer for days you aren't working

[@MyersWoodshop]

ok

[@ssmith2141]

Any projects cutting Metal? Can you do a video please n Thks

[@MyersWoodshop]

no, because no co2 laser can cut metal. you'll need a plasma cutter.

[@MilanKarakas]

Still waiting for the explanation why laser tube should be cooled.

[@kuhrd]

Glass tube CO2 lasers along with many of the metal tube lasers have water jackets around the laser tube and sometimes the mirror and window at the ends of the tube to keep them cool. If you run one of these lasers without water they will heat up fairly quickly and kill the tube or cause the mirror or window on the tube ends to crack. If you use a bucket of water as your cooling method the water will only be as cold as the air in the room and as you run the laser it will heat up slowly. Adding a heat exchanger will allow you to run the laser for longer and at higher power without worrying about the water in a bucket becoming saturated with more heat. Everything I have read on the topic states that the laser tube should be kept around 59-68 F or 15-20 C for maximum life. You don't want to go much colder due to condensation and warmer temps beyond 72F will increase the speed of tube degradation. So let's say you run your engraver in 80F heat during the summer and you cool it with a bucket of water, will it die instantly, no but the tube may only last a year or 2 rather than lasting 5-10 years. Tube quality also makes a big difference. The first tube that most of the inexpensive Chinese lasers ship with is garbage and you will be lucky to get more than 1-2 years out of it. When you do replace the first tube buy a decent brand like RECI to replace it and they tend to hold up far better. It's also a good idea to have a Milliammeter on the laser and also make some output measurements with a CO2 laser power meter to make sure you are not overdriving the tube in the first place. Most PSUs I see in the chinese machines need to be turned down about 15-30% just to be running at rated output.

[@guydarj]

Please don't blow air through the hose using your mouth.... All the distilled water and then you use your mouth... Man that was bad... 😢