Installing New Pipe Under An Old Sidewalk

[@abecombs4349]

Nice work !! You always do a great job. Nice boring tool . Nice neat job !! Thanks for taking time to explain .

[@zaccheus]

@@abecombs4349 thanks Abe!

[@benburns5995]

Hi Zach, thanks for all of your explanations of your thought process on the jobs you are doing. I thought when you were a little low coming from tunneling under the sidewalk it would cause problems, but glad it all worked out. I was wondering why you didn't put stone with the pipe but sounds like it wasn't needed. Glad you mentioned it as it answered my question. Look forward to your weekly videos, so keep up the good work.

[@zaccheus]

@@benburns5995 hey Anne, thanks for you comment. Stone would have been a stronger installation. It also increases the price a lot and isn’t super common in this area for residential downspout drains. I’m always happy to include stone in a bid if the customer requests, I just can’t afford to include stone if the guys I’m bidding against aren’t including stone.

[@woodworker3122]

Nice job and thanks for considering us being able to see the auger vs the sun. You’re always on top of the camera work making us feel like we are part of the job along with you. Nice work👍.

[@zaccheus]

@@woodworker3122 thanks man! I do my best to try and capture things in a way that helps the viewer see everything. I’m glad to hear it was appreciated

[@robertvannicolo4435]

Zach auger is sweet I usually hand dig under or cut 1 pad lift dig and reset when pipe installed. As for compacting the trench never had a problem with sdr35 being crushed or compromised. Usually run track along trench or wheel of my smallest skidsteer. Professional job as usual

[@zaccheus]

@@robertvannicolo4435 I’ve done that once or twice before too. Definitely easier than pouring a new pad. I crushed a pipe once a long time ago and I’ve just never really found it to be worth the risk since. I’ve also dug up a lot of pipe that was smashed into an oval and even cracked along the bottom. Maybe tracking it in with a lighter machine as you described would be a good idea. If clients want a seeded finish, I usually stick to schedule 40 and track in the trench over that.

[@michaelwhiteoldtimer7648]

Great work

[@zaccheus]

@@michaelwhiteoldtimer7648 thanks Michael!

[@osagejon8972]

The auger worked well

[@zaccheus]

@@osagejon8972 I was quite pleased with it

[@gregbrown9271]

Nice work zach 👏

[@zaccheus]

@@gregbrown9271 thanks Greg!

[@ericharris893]

The auger is perfect. Saved everybody a lotta headache with that idea. I normally can’t use one because we have rocky clay. That is pinbar territory.

[@zaccheus]

@@ericharris893 Ah bummer. It doesn’t doesn’t like rocky ground for sure

[@pauln7422]

😀👍In the Uk we are not allowed to discharge rainwater on the road, most gutters and downpipes are connected to a soak-away, somewhere in the garden, I believe is is supposed to be a minimum of 5 metres (about 16 and a half feet) from the building. If we put a new driveway in, and it falls towards the road, again we have to put a drainage channel at the end of the drive to collect any rain run-off, before it reaches the road, and the drain channel has to run to a soak-away, either new or existing. Soak-aways used to be a hole filled with brick rubble and smaller stones, gravel etc, but common nowadays to use plastic crates wrapped with a weed membrane. Usually about a cubic yard in size, the the pipe discharging level with the top of it.

[@zaccheus]

@@pauln7422 oh very interesting. Do they regulate size for different soil types and run off area sizes? We can them dry wells here. Often it’s just a hole filled with gravel, but in commercial applications, it’s common to see underground water storage with a metered release into the storm water system. I typically try to stay away from dry wells here unless it’s been engineered. They tend to get overwhelmed in the wet seasons. We have a strong diversity of soils here, a lot of glacial till and sedimentary layers installed by floods. You surely have a long and strong wet season there too. Do the soak away ever get overwhelmed?

[@pauln7422]

@@zaccheus I see, and yes, I would guess the bigger the house or building the bigger the dry wells would need to be. I don't know all the regulations and was only involved in jobs for houses, mainly in a town setting. In the towns, most of the roads have drain grills spaced every so often along the side of the road connected to an underground drain, I think sometimes they can then connect into the sewer system, so they don't want them getting overwhelmed. Hence the rule change a few years ago to not allow rainwater run off from driveways and buildings onto the roads. our soils vary quite a bit. I am close to Cambridge which can be mainly clay, low lying areas of Cambridge in the winter can have the water table rise to around a foot below ground. I am on chalk as is a lot of the area to the South and East of Cambridge, and only a few miles North and East is "iFenland" with rich black soil, the "Fens" were reclaimed from being underwater hundreds of years ago by drainage for agricultural use. A lot of houses built in this area have to be built on a "raft" of concrete because it is so soft. A lot of the Fens were severely flooded just after the second world war, when sea defences failed due to surge tide. Ive not known any major flooding around us, but to the North West of Cambridge they do get floods in low lying areas, mainly due to building of new housing estates on what were flood plains, which has happened a lot in other areas in the UK

[@zaccheus]

@@pauln7422 that’s so interesting. We have some low land around here. A lot of it gets used for sod farms or is preserved as bogs for wildlife. Most of Ohio is Between 900 and 1200 ft above sea level, but Lake Erie to the north is large enough to have some influence on the area around. The ground up near the lake will sometimes have several layers of sand, clay, silt, and loam all just a few inches thick. I’ve never dealt with chalk before that’s got to be very interesting.

[@pauln7422]

@@zaccheus Thanks, thats interesting too, I didn't know Ohio was mainly that high. Much higher than around here. Cambridge is only around 25 to 50 feet above sea, we are around 100 feet above sea where I live, and a lot of the fenland is actually below sea level. Chalk drains well and is usually reasonably soft to dig for the first 18 inches to 2 feet, then gets gradually harder at about 3 feet very hard, digging by hand almost impossible and would need teeth on the bucket on an excavator. The hardest ground I've had to hand dig (for fence posts) was a mixture of clay and stone, that was in the summer, very dry, almost like concrete, would have been easier if wet. Other parts of the Uk must be a lot worse, with Granite and other rock, so I guess we are lucky here. Ohio is around 45,000 sq miles to Cambridgeshires 1300 sq miles, so a relatively much smaller area, I never used to travel anymore than 30 miles for jobs we did. Most of that time it was mainly 10 miles or less.

[@zaccheus]

@@pauln7422 that’s really great to cover only a small area. I find myself traveling as much as an hour sometimes and it’s not my favorite. Most of our bedrock here is sandstone, but there are places with limestone. Limestone ends up being what most of our aggregate is made out of. I can’t imagine living below sea level. That would make me uncomfortable I think 😅 Clay is about the hardest stuff he have around here, but it’s not super uncommon to have to dig through sand stone in some areas for utilities or ponds. I’ve never run into much of it, but I’ve been a part of digging up sewer mains that had to be blasted in.

[@UncleScotty]

Type UF Romex is approved for direct burial. The depth is dictated by local codes.

[@zaccheus]

@@UncleScotty I’m not familiar with that stuff. I’m not electrician, but all the literature I’ve seen on romex says it’s for indoor use only

[@ericharris893]

Direct burial is like Romex but it’s different. It’s uv resistant and has a stiff covering and the wires are fully contained and spaced evenly. Romex will chip and bleed electricity in wet soil. Most codes won’t even allow direct burial wire anymore. In fact, none that I know of allow it. Everything is conduit now. Upstate New York here