Instrument cluster wiring - Where do they all go? - 1966 Ford Mustang

[@Gamergod1390]

I love that you still put out videos to help all of us DIY people. I’m young and my dad didn’t teach me crap about cars so I bought a 66 coupe to teach myself. Love the videos and all the help you give. Thanks boss man

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Dude! Mega props for taking it upon yourself to learn and figure things out. The world needs more people that have that drive and initive. Good luck on your project!

[@ChanningRay]

This is perfect, took all the screws out to replace the gauges and saw all the wires and said, nope, not today. I can feel confident now putting it all back together on my 65’. Thanks!

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

You're very welcome!

[@kilowhiskyforge4337]

Excellent, this is exactly what I need, your '66 videos specifically are incredibly useful. Im very lucky to have come across ya

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Thank you! Glad I could help!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I agree with needing those wiring diagrams, I use them a lot!

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

They are definitely a must have tool for anyone who owns these cars 👍

[@ronschlorff7089]

@@AlfsMustangGarage yup, you might "get away with some stuff" fixing the old cars, but you Never want to smell or see smoke coming out from behind your gauge cluster, ...Not good at all!! ;D

[@Elevation_unknown81]

great detail and how to check before buttoning it up, good job as always.

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Thank you!

[@markb289]

Excellent video. Early '65 models with the GT or Pony gauges have a different style of ammeter with the power passing through a loop on the gauge. Everything else is the same.

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

That is very correct. Thank you!

[@ronschlorff7089]

Good vid, love the orange gloves! LOL. I don't have a Mustang, (not anymore, had a '70 coupe, years ago but sold it) but I do have a 64 Ranchero with a 66 Mustang 200 six in it. Also have a 64 Comet with 302. I actually have a 65-66 Mustang gauge cluster in my Ranchero, it fits right in the 64-65 Falcons, that I got at a nice Mustang parts shop in Stockton CA years ago when I was building my 'Chero (read that to mean I had a lot of good mechanic friends who liked pizza and beer in exchange for helping me, LOL). So, a lot of what you see here also works for other early 60's Ford products. I also have a 67 Cyclone and 64 Fairlane, so there may be some similarities but have not been into those in a long time or ever in the case of the Fairlane, which I bought recently, 2 years ago. Word to the wise is that if you have other Fords the early Mustang vids of Alf's are helpful in so many other ways from suspension to engine work, and stuff like fuel systems, starter motors, brakes, the door and hood mechanisms, locks, and windows, and of course for all stuff on 289's etc. Lots of interchangeability, for "cousins" and "fathers" of the Mustang. Good tip on the wring diagram which are available in many places, or a diagram online can be downloaded and printed out. I used that on my 64 Comet recently, plus some labels, photos, for locations as I took it out. Thanks for posting these vids!

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

You're very welcome, glad I could be helpful.

[@salcatalano8080]

Great video! Exactly what I needed.

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Thank you!

[@randypascarella]

Pure gold, thank you for this!!!

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

You're very welcome!

[@jreyes8614]

Nice video guys!

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Thank you sir!

[@Blaine219]

Your videos are great! You should create a video on one-wire alternator installation + voltage regulator cleanup.

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Next opportunity I get for sure.

[@PeterK-p4o]

That's right don't panic i got a 67 fastback there's only 7 wiring harnesses and less on a 66 mustang.

[@fxdwgriding]

Thank you very informative and helpful. Is there anything special to know about re-installing the speedometer cable?

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Not really, should just go right back on. However, if replacing it you have to watch for some of these aftermarket replacement cables being too long on the gauge end. I've had to trim some of them to get them to fit.

[@fxdwgriding]

@@AlfsMustangGarage Thank you for information and the videos. They are very informative and helpful.

[@boogeybum1]

Great info! Thanks

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

You're very welcome!

[@robertclymer6948]

TGIF! Great info as usual. You think this could apply to 67-68 perhaps? Question? What is the difference between and Voltage meter vs Amp meter? Which one should we be using on Mustangs. My 67 Gt don't have one so I may add aftermarket on to my other gauge cluster under the radio dash. Appreciate you, you have never steered me wrong. Blessings and cheers from Motown/Dearborn.

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

So the Amp meter is a shunt-style where the two leads bring current through the ammeter. Its supposed to reflect the state of charge on the battery. The problem is that they weren't durable enough and ended up failing pretty early on is what I've read. So the volt meter conversion is something I would like to make a video on one day. Its a more accurate reflection of the actual voltage of the system. Originally they came with the amp gauge but the volt meter conversion I think is pretty popular because the amp gauges simply don't give you the correct information as to what is going on in the charging system. Thanks Robert!

[@robertclymer6948]

@@AlfsMustangGarage Thanks for your reply!! Seems I heard the Amp meters could cause fires or something like that. Volt meter it is then. Just upgraded to a 110 amp single wire Alt with internal voltage reg. But I want to see what it doing without using my voltmeter to see what it is charging.

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Yup volt gauge is definitely the best way to go then. Cheers!

[@banks412]

Amazing video - thank you! Can I ask where you ground your voltage tester when you test the cluster connections? I am having trouble with my cluster lights at night. Nothing lights up, and I’m not quite sure where to start. After watching this video, I might just have the confidence to get started!

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Well I usually connect my test light to the steering column collar mount right under the dash. Ya if those cluster lights are not very bright, you could check the rheostat on the headlight switch. Or if some work and some done, could just be burnt out bulbs. Good luck!

[@James-vs5lf]

How do know which tab on each unit you don't it backwards

[@SteveNevins]

do you have a video on Rally Pacs? I have a 1966 Musang coupe with a reproducion rally pac. that I installed 30+ years ago. I recently put a crate motor inhe carwith a magnetic pick up and my tac does not wI instllaed the rally pac 30=+

[@BigKuda1776]

Hey Alf I put in a painless wiring harness in my 65 and got it all in and now it cranks in the on position. I put in a new solenoid got hooked up with the red strip on the s and the brown on the I. Any ideas?

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

The first thing I would be checking is the ignition switch. The wire that goes to the starter solenoid should only be getting power when the key is in start position. So if it's sending power in the run position, that should be easily checked with a volt meter.

[@BigKuda1776]

@@AlfsMustangGarage your awesome thanks and keep up the awesome videos. Now my dumb question as a FNG to all of this how would I check if it’s sending that power in the run position? Sorry to ask

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

No worries. So i wish I could pump out a video super fast and I might still in the near future. But essentially if you have a test light or volt meter and a friend, this is easy. Now to keep things as simple as possible I'm going to assume that you have all the wiring correct seems how you just replaced it all. The wire that connects to your starter solenoid that cones from your ignition switch is the wire you're testing. With it disconnected, you want your test light or volt meter's positive lead connected to that wire. Your negative lead can be connected to your negative battery terminal. Then the key turned to run position. I'm assuming that you will see power there because you said the starter engages in run. Essentially you should only see power there when the key is in start position. Now that's how you test it but it doesn't necessarily tell you the ignition switch is bad. You may want to trace back and make sure you have the correct wires coming off the ignition switch going to the correct places. I hope that helps. Good luck.

[@BigKuda1776]

@@AlfsMustangGarage super appreciate you taking the time to help me out

[@marycorona934]

Have a question I have a 1966 mustang inline 6 having trouble with gas issues what type of gas do you recommend

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

I use ethanol free gas in the highest octane I can find in all the old mustangs.

[@marycorona934]

Thank you it feels like I'm getting bad gas Change fuel pump

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Fuel pump and filter are quick, easy, and inexpensive repairs to see if it helps.

[@marycorona934]

@@AlfsMustangGarage I did still bad starts m shuts off

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

I'm afraid I probably won't be able to diagnose it over KZbin. I just typically check the basics. Is the carburetor delivering the fuel? Is the coil sparking properly? Check ignition points, spark plugs, cap, rotor, check timing. Many things to consider.

[@Craspan]

👍

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

👍

[@scotholmes]

I saw nothing about grounds on the cluster 😢

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Well I would say forward the video to 8:20 and watch the section of video on the ground wire.

[@scotholmes]

So that black wire is the only ground for all the gauges? No others??? Thanks 😂

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

@scotholmes the gauge grounds are the sending units. They do not ground to the cluster case. The case ground is used to ground the bulbs.

[@nomoretears215]

Will a 66 guage cluster fit in the 65, is the wiring the same?