Insulating ductwork fittings Part 1 - straight, 90 degree, endshot boots (Mech Training # 103-1)

[@suryamitra7397]

Excellent human being. A man who takes pride in his work, not for the rewards but for the work itself.

[@stevedemetrious6454]

This is one of the best and most informative videos on this subject I’ve found. Great job guys, and thank you!

[@Holler_Rat]

What an awesome channel. I wish this information was around when I started. Please keep making these excellent training videos!

[@donaldwall8874]

Man, you did an awesome job with that end shot boot!!

[@carrieresammy]

I really appreciate all these videos man!

[@ChaosForLunch]

wow that's a serious machine in the background sir

[@AbjectMaelstrom]

Re-did some of my duct work in the crawlspace. All of the stuff is original to the house form '91 and the connections at the boot and the trunk line are pretty terrible, either from age or poor install, or both. Most of the boots are not insulated after the initial connection, couple of the boots that were "insulated", basically just had pulled the flex duct insulation all the way over the boot and taped it. No mastic. Trunk line connection is just two passes of duct tape on inner flex, so which grande has mostly held up, then a zip tie over the outer insulation winches down tight. No mastic anywhere. Naturally both ends sweated like crazy. I'm just a DIYer, but watching your videos, the pride in quality of your work really shines through and is something that seems quite rare these days. Followed your directions for the boots and trunk line connections; when my crawlspace was inspected for encapsulation, the inspector commented that "your HVAC guys did a great job on the duct work." I agreed and left it at that. Kudos sir, on excellent instructions and for passing on the knowledge.

[@TexasComfort]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Very helpful as we recommend metal ductwork ourselves

[@stephanierinks2627]

Excellent workmanship and hopefully helpful for those that are coming up in this trade, however I do suggest staples after tape has been installed on everything. I have been in the trade for 17 years and tape (especially ductape) comes off or wears off over time and staples will help prevent such.. Keep the videos coming I enjoy seeing it be taught the right way plus I have learned a couple of things from them as well!

[@JC-sc9rx]

Love all your videos, man!

[@3dux128]

Incredible guy! The Master!

[@shahbazi09]

you are super helpful and thorough

[@vincentgelles3805]

That’s exactly how I wrap my end boots too. I always just add that small strip of insulation. I’ve never been able to do it with one piece of insulation. Also, we call them torpedo boots around here, Eastern North Carolina. Although I think the proper term is end boot.

[@dwick26]

Hey man where are you out of/who are you with I’ve been trying to find an honest hvac guy/company Was just checking some “licensed” work where my boots were sweating profusely which lead me to this amazing video. I’m in Washington if you are still in the nearby area!

[@darrenaugustine6508]

Awesome job!!

[@xlillo6175]

I truly appreciate the work ethic, and great videos! . its a dying trait in today's world. With that I'd like to pose some challenge questions: Why do you rely on tape as a primary sealant vs mastic? I’m not in the trade but I built my home 20 years ago. I used similar methods with premium tape (3M and Nashua), and both failed. I’ve had the adhesive dry out and fail in 10-20 years. The adhesive turn to dust on the tapes applied closer to the 20 year timeline. The only tape that seemed to hold up during this timeline is the polyester type tape. After some research I decided to replace my flex ducts. For attaching the liner, I bonded with mastic and a zip-tie connected with Malco tool, and I may tag the zip tie with a screw. On the outer vapor barrier I’m using the 3M Venture polyester type tape. Hopefully this is the last time I’m doing this.

[@aglmechanicaltips]

I am using a sealant tape. Hardcast model # 1402. It is a tape with a sealant applied to it and is quite different than duct tape. It is really good stuff and I have never seen it fail (been using it or similar productz for over 15 years). As far as using mastic on the outside, this is a code compliance thing that really only applies to my region and most areas actually do not require mastic to be applied on the outside. It does however prevent the tape from failing on the outside so I do like it. Also, I still always use staples is there is any tension as duct tape is not meant to actually hold anything together, more or less just cover it

[@shaunbecker6492]

In the process of hanging boots - make those videos!

[@pamgalicki]

Thank you for this excellent lesson - could you post part numbers for the regular tape and mastic tape you use in this video?

[@aglmechanicaltips]

The duct tape and mastic tape can be found at the links below; Mastic tape amzn.to/3HHVAdx Duct tape amzn.to/3PD7441

[@bensonreutter5667]

S slip also works good to secure ceiling boots

[@robertpalmatier2699]

Can you make a video on a rooftop package unit residential down flow removing the old curb and installing the new curb and connection the return and supply under the unit?

[@johndefalque5061]

I just started working for a factory and they have no training videos also I'm an Anglo in Quebec City. I am extremely allergic to fibreglass, it even blinded me in one eye or 6 wks and gave me a scalp tosole rash down my left side. My skin feels like it's on fire with that sh*t!

[@MoxieNYC]

I haven’t tried any of this yet, but fantastic video. For that last one, the endshot boot, have you thought about doing a soft tape - including the extra piece that you staple on (maybe just one side) - and then unwinding the whole thing so that you can see your template?

[@aglmechanicaltips]

I could but I'm trying to teach the method of creating a template (for anything) not just memorizing the ones I have shown. I will say that endshots are a pain in the butt either way and even the template I show had to have insulation added to some portions of it.

[@MoxieNYC]

You are a true academic. Really appreciate you passing along the breadth of your knowledge and experience. It’s really helped me seal up a very poorly installed system. Just discovered that you have a bunch of geothermal videos so I’m eager to go through those and see if there are any nuggets in there to help me tweak my bleeding edge system from 2008. You are the man Andrew!

[@sucutash]

Will this help if I want a 90 degree boot to stop making tapping noises from heat/cold expansion and contraction? Or what would you recommend for that?

[@aglmechanicaltips]

Try to figure out what is actually making the tapping noise. It maybe that they didn't pull the flex duct tight when they installed and the flex is expanding and contracting with tempurature. I don't know, that one's a little odd and I don't believe I have experienced that before.

[@scottschweigert1657]

Would you add external FSK insulation like this to a register boot that comes pre insulated internally with foam?

[@stevew5486]

Great video. Wondering what you would suggest in my situation. House was built 22 years ago. The original installer just strapped flex line to boots. The only insulation is the blow-in covering them. I pulled them and put mastic to seal to boot 10+ years ago when an energy audit showed we had a lot of leakage from the attic (2nd floor) HVAC system. I know now the insulation is not taped properly at the trunk line and there is no insulation attached to the boots. Would you recommend I wrap the boots and tape the connections like you did or is being covered with blow-in insulaiton sufficient? Thank you. BTW, I stumbled on your videos looking on sizing return vents. I think I need an additional return. 😞

[@johnmiller102]

Can the same thing be done with bubble insulation?

[@rudysarabia2996]

What is the brand and type of ductape you are looking.

[@aglmechanicaltips]

I am using Nashua model 365. amzn.to/3PD7441

[@TonyNanni]

Andrew, if you were to block in that straight boot in the ceiling doesn’t that compress all your side insulation? Same thing on your magic boot that has the looks like 1 inch flange. Would side insulation be compressed?

[@aglmechanicaltips]

I use a plaster flange when I install straight boots but if I were to frame it, I would not frame it tight. Even then, there would be some minor compression.

[@TonyNanni]

Thanks Andrew. You are truly the last of your kind. Your stuff is true perfection. If I can get the plaster frames I will make one modification and that is making a one inch fold up in the metal on each side to attach to ceiling joist so it can be attached inside the joist not to its face. I can’t have that lump there with the flange and screw pushing out the sheet rock. The soeediboot with its hangers is kind of the same idea.

[@TomHiser]

I have insulated four 90 degree boots the way you have shown in this video and it works very well. I see that you said to mastic seal the entire boot after it is insulated. Do you do this after it is installed in the attic or before, and is it really necessary to mastic seal the entire boot, or is mastic sealing the connection adequate?

[@aglmechanicaltips]

It depends on the install on wether or not I mastic before putting in the attic. I normally do it before installing if I have enough time to allow it to dry. Also, it is not required that you mastic the entire boot, I do this for cosmetics and consistency mostly.

[@salvadorramirez7503]

Gud

[@WhiteWakedNProud]

No example of Wyes? I think I'm kinda starting to see the pattern looking like a rainbow with a circle offset from the middle a little

[@wesbrennan6878]

You saying for a Y? Depends if square or round I do em dif. Mostly see Y's in 14 to 16 inch spiral.i cut something that looks similar to a diaper I guess would be the best way to put it lol. Usually after that's on I can put a straight piece on to butt it. If it doesn't quite butt up in the throat of the Y just cut a small semicircle out your piece to slide further into the throat

[@wesbrennan6878]

Long radius 90's I square duct I measure the top the back and bottom of the duct say the duct is 18 on top and bottom and the back is 10. And the 90 is say 40 wide. I roll my roll out measure down to 20 make a line with my knife in the insulation. I measure 12 down from that which will be the middle of the 90 or back. Then I measure 22 from there and cut it off. Both sides that are 22 I cut from near the middle of the piece to the 12 inch mark at an angle 2 times basically end up with a similar to a diamond 💎 but picture another diamond on top of that one I inserted wide middle then down to a triangle basically on both sides.

[@wesbrennan6878]

Hard to explain the long radius 90 without visual cues. A box 90 is much easier to explain. Say u wrapping 20x24 square ribbed duct. So that's 44 and 44 88 so I would cut that at 98 find half of 98 which is about 49 so from that 49 mark go up 12 inches then go down 12 inches now you have 24 inches marked then cut that 24x20 square out and it'll slide straight past the throat and cover the 90 and the box you cut out the center of your piece will fir the opposite face of the 90 and your back rolling straight

[@callofdoobie3092]

Real HVAC men don't use flexible duct.

[@dra8907]

In the Los Angeles area that’s all we use . If you bid a job in metal and all your other competitors bids are in flex you most likely won’t get the job. We are electrical contractors as well, bid for armored flex or romex? Bid for armored flex and you most likely won’t get the job. These are the times we’re living in. Quicker and more cost effective to get the job done. I’ve had abatements done on beautiful rigid round pipe with asbestos insulation and low static to have to install inferior flex duct. And then there’s the ultra low nox furnace!