Intro to Door Hardware Fail Secure vs. Fail Safe

This video in Allegion's Intro to Door Hardware Series explains fail secure and fail safe.

[@EuroDoorKenya]

Good presentation

[@csttechnicalsupport7645]

very good introduction, but the sound volume in background is loud.

[@allegionus]

Thank you for the feedback! We’ll keep that in mind for future videos.

[@rc846]

Fail secure & fail safe is referencing the Key side of a lock. All commercial locks have Free Egress from the inside. Fail Secure (Power to UnLock) EU = Electrically Unlocked (FSE) Fail Safe (Power to Lock) EL = Electrically Locked (FS) Most Elec, Strike are field selectable (Fail Safe Strike are not allowed on fire doors) or Mag Locks. Elec. Exit device are Fail Secure Only LR = Latch Retraction (FSE) Elec. Exit Trims are field selectable both can be on fire doors Most Mortise locks & Cylindrical locks need to be ordered Fail Secure or Fail Safe. MagLocks can only be Fail Safe AKA fail unsecure.

[@rc846]

how to tell if a lever lock is fail safe (Power to Lock) Cylindrical lock the inside Lever will be warm. Mortise lock the outside mortise cylinder above the lever will be warm.

[@rc846]

Every Exterior lock & Interior lock should use fail secure (Power to UnLock) If you want to be Secure in a power outage. The ONLY time you would use Fail Safe locks (Power to Lock) is if you are locking an Interior door that is also a path of egress to the stairwells or EXITs the fire alarm will cut power to the locks and they become a PASSAGE lever Stay away from MagLocks they suck. do not use them Fire Trap if they don't loose power They are not allowed on fire rated Openings.