Intro To FreeCAD V1.0 Woodworking Marking Gauge Design and 3D Print

How to Design and 3D Print a Woodworking Marking Gauge
In this video, I’ll walk you through the process of designing a woodworking marking gauge from scratch, followed by assembling the parts, and finally, 3D printing the finished version. Whether you're a seasoned woodworker or a beginner looking to make your own tools, this guide will show you how to combine traditional techniques with modern 3D printing technology to create a functional and accurate marking gauge.
What You'll Learn:
How to model a woodworking marking gauge using CAD software.
Tips and techniques for ensuring precision in your design.
The assembly process to ensure the parts fit together perfectly.
How to 3D print the gauge and ensure it's ready for use in your woodworking projects.
If you're interested in creating your own tools or enhancing your woodworking experience with 3D printed parts, this video is a great place to start!
Don't forget to like, subscribe, and click the bell icon for more DIY projects and tutorials!
Links in the video:
www.freecad.org (download from here)
wiki.freecad.org
forum.freecad.org
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Songs:
Raw Space by Spazz Cardigan (intro)

[@NigelSheldon]

Excellent Work! Thanks for teaching this!

[@Adventuresincreation]

You are welcome!

[@horoshuhin]

love your videos. full and thorough.

[@Adventuresincreation]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!

[@tomthompson7400]

Another gem ,,,

[@Adventuresincreation]

Thank you

[@robertcartman3502]

It would be handy if we could reference lines from already existing bodies. Like when you made the hole on the head for the bar (14:38). Thx for the video!

[@Adventuresincreation]

You can do that.

[@TheREALDocRabbit]

I've made these onsite with a couple blocks of wood and a few screws. Handy when you need to make several cuts the same length on something. :) Uses one screw put through one board just peaking out enough to form a scribe.

[@Adventuresincreation]

Exactly that, this is just another version of that.

[@loughkb]

When it comes to making the gap in the pencil holder, instead of the sketch and pocket, maybe you could have just reduced the revolve to something less than 360°? Created the gap that way. I think the hexagon pocket would have still worked. I'm always looking for ways to simplify my models.

[@Adventuresincreation]

Yeah, there are several ways you can achieve the same result. I tend to keep it simple.

[@loughkb]

​@@Adventuresincreation Well it would simplify the model, one less step in the tree. I'm always looking for ways to reduce complexity. Your channel and mango jelly have been my two favorites so far.

[@Adventuresincreation]

@@loughkb Glad to hear it. If you keep it simple it makes it much easier if something doesn't work out the way you want or you change it later.

[@EcoHamletsUK]

I've started exporting STEP files rather than STLs, as I'm led to believe they can be more accurate. I now use Orca Slicer after years of using Prusa Slicer, but both will import them.

[@Adventuresincreation]

Yeah, I have tried many different formats but always come back to STL

[@rodneysmith1750]

Excellent video, I do not use assemblies because most all of my stuff is pretty simple adapters or boxes, however, I did enjoy watching the process. I have a suggestion for a video as well. I do some LED lighting and have become interested in doing some signs and lighted logos. There are several videos covering the subject well. However, they all seem to use Fusion for the modeling and I don't. Could you do a video centered around modeling from an imported picture or image, and using the sketch offset to form a contoured surface and cutouts to accommodate the LED rope-type NEON lights. 😊😊😊

[@Adventuresincreation]

Great suggestion. Do you have a picture of one of the signs you would like to use?