Introduction to model glues

This is an introduction to the different types of glues for building scal models.
I will cover glues for Styrene, CA glues, Epoxys, and PVA glues with some examples using them. There is even a demo at the 22 minute mark for using Micro Kristal Klear to make windows.

[@NenuxTitanRsr]

I know you don't check this YT anymore. but out of this video ive learned so much for my deep dive into Garage kits. thank you sir for making this video you've explained everything so well and i understand everything ive needed to know as a beginner modeler.

[@kusanagi533d]

One of the best Hobby Glue videos with their uses. Thanks for making this Mr. Morgan.

[@reserveratyt]

Great full guide on all the various glues used in the hobby.

[@guyfromsac1]

Best explanation of model glues I've seen, nice job.

[@adamfox1669]

Very comprehensive review & research. Thanks so much for sharing

[@luke_atthat]

Very clear explanations and demonstrations. Thanks.

[@Redbeard42069]

This was a great video! I really appreciated the "real life" examples you gave in actually gluing parts of real projects you have going. This helped a bunch!

[@crobinson3128]

Mixed all these together and melted a hole thru my work bench thanks man

[@pleaseexcusemydeeplyawkwar4972]

ahahahaha

[@deandanielson8074]

Thanks, Anthony for a nice clear explanation of the various glues. I'll probably review this view again before my next model kit project. - Dean from Minnesota

[@Kallnar]

Excellent and informative video. I've been a model enthusiast for 20 years and I still found this illuminating and delightfully concise.

[@thavvolf9157]

Thank you, I have a model of UP's big boy that I' ex held off working on based on my concern about glues.

[@BritishRail60062]

I use the Tamiya Ultra Thin for kit making and its also very good for repairing detail parts on model trains. I wouldn't recommend using superglue with glazing although I heard that if the glazing is clear coated first then it shields the plastic from the fumes but I have never tried it myself.

[@shqi2295]

Excellent review 👍

[@rurushu8094]

I use Mr Cement S for all parts, it works really well but dries really quickly so I have to put a lot of glue so it doesn't dry out before I stick the parts together.

[@REKlaus]

BSI Super-Gold+ (with the black cap as shown in video) is also great for putting in clear parts on models and doesn't seem to fog most clear plastics.

[@thecrazybishop1664]

Great video - very informative...I have a black chess piece made out of hard resin, the top and bottom part came apart (male to female joint). The piece is part of an old set no longer made so it's important to me that I choose the correct glue for the job. I had several suggestions ranging from elmer's glue to rubber cement to spray adhesive (3M brand). Any help is much appreciated

[@MousePirateFilms]

Thanks for this. I am search which is good glue for my Star Trek Starship model kit.

[@gundamfan2020]

it's also good practice to use gloves as glue finger prints in plastic suck balls and require extra prep. but great video dood found it helpful.

[@1farp]

the first 5 are welding cements that softens plastic

[@JohnMcGFrance]

Thanks for the video. When gluing 2 plastic parts that have been painted would you use CA or epoxy or would you clean the paint off the joint area and use the cement type?

[@johnarnaldo1750]

Thankyou very informative~

[@garygullikson6349]

Nicely done video!! Many local hobby shops don't stock RC56, etc., canopy glue anymore. Amazon and Walmart orders go to third party sellers, add cost for shipping and take a week+. Any suggestions for substitute glue for canopies that remains slightly flexible and dries crystal clear ?

[@bradschak]

I like your mat. Can you let me know where you got it? I’ve seen others like it but I like yours. Thanks.

[@MaZEEZaM]

Very helpful thanks. The only question I have is how do I know what type of plastic the models are made from? I can't find any video's on youtube answering this question :(

[@jimkelly5999]

I use testors for my cement,works great

[@layfonlin3147]

Does it dries clear?? That is the most important information..

[@timfoote6919]

nice job

[@MaZEEZaM]

I tried to find those mini clamps and kind of did with the red tips but only unpainted middle, for reasonable cost, I did actually find those black and red ones and though the clamps were reasonable priced, I think it was about $15 AUD for 12, they wanted to charge $36 AUD postage on top from the US to Australia :(

[@nokiot9]

Which one gets you high the best?

[@traceymcguire3658]

Fantastic tips x could you please tell us more about the dragon head I'd love one cheers Tracey x

[@patrickfinan4966]

Great intro and useful regardless of experience. Have you used white (elmers) glue for clear plastic pieces? It was recommended for a large clear plastic dome.

[@ajmvfr]

I have, Elmers is a PVA glue. It's the same as the Micro Kristal Klear or the Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Personally I prefer Micro Kristal Klear before all the others. I think it dries clearer, but if all you have is Elmers it will work great. I guess it really depends on the size of the dome, but I've never use it on anything bigger than a 1/32 aircraft.

[@markorollo.]

I'm just getting into model building, my first ones don't actually need glue, the Bandai star wars sets, although I have seen them being glued, but if I get into ones that need it would the Tamiya glue cover all bases? I think I'd just stick to that (pun possibly intended) if I can.

[@ajmvfr]

I don't build many Bandai kits, but the couple I have built(non star wars) fit together very tight and largely don't need glue. There are a couple reason to actually use glue. Lets say there is a seam I want to fill and sand, that would be a area I would glue. Also any place I might be adding detail I would make sure the part is glues so there is no movement. I use Tamiya glue for Bandai kits. the way to test the glue is to cut off a piece of sprue. Then cut it in half with a nice square cut. Put the 2 pieces together and glue the cut pieces back together. Give it few seconds and then pull the pieces back apart. If the glue is working, the plastic will be melting and stringy

[@tyler2610]

Hi, I have a question. I have a ready made resin scale model but it has a metal photo etched hood ornament that had to be attached. I glued it on with Lock Tite super glue. It holds but is a little more flexible than I would like. Do you have a recommendation for a glue that would be better for this application?

[@ajmvfr]

It can be difficult at times to glue, but I'm not sure what you mean by flexible? if it does not feel like you have it fully bonded, you might want to try and get more glue under it. I don't use a lot of CA any more for photo etch, I tend to leave a mess with CA. I use a lot of white glue, a small amount, place the piece and let it dry, with a brush with water I can clean up extra glue. Once it's dry I look at it, and if it looks like I need more glue under it, I will thin some normal white glue with water. I don't really have an exact mix ration, somewhere around 50/50, maybe more water if it seems to be too thick to wick. Pick it up on a small brush, and then just touch the edges and let it wick under the part. You can lift up extra glue with the corner of a paper towel, and some times you will need to let it dry and then apply more glue in if you think there are still gaps.

[@tyler2610]

Hi, Thanks for your reply. By flexible, I mean that the hood ornament will give slightly if a force is applied. It stays in position well it just isn't the most sturdy bond. I have 2 other models from the same manufacturer and they applied the hood ornaments at the factory and they seem very sturdy. If I give slight pressure with my finger it doesn't move at all. There isn't a lot of room to put much glue as the hole for the ornament is literally pin sized and I don't want a bunch of glue oozing out and making a mess. Do you think the Permatex epoxy you show would work better than a Lock-Tite Super Glue? The hood ornament is a stand up type, so only a very small portion (about 1/16") is glued to the car. What I like about the Super Glue is if I mess it up I can clean it off completely within the first couple minutes and re-do as needed, I don't know if epoxy would be as forgiving.

[@ajmvfr]

I'm really not sure. You could use epoxy, but I would be worried about glue oozing out. If you don't have paint to worry about, a lot of epoxies will clean up with rubbing alcohol before it activates, but you will need to test that. My first thoughts would be to use white glue or CA.

[@tyler2610]

Okay, I guess it will just stay like it is because it is on a painted surface and it is on after all. I just hope it holds up over time. I have another photo etched emblem I need to place on the rear end of the same model that is bigger with more surface area. I tried using Elmer's white glue but it came off after some handling, is there anything else I could use besides CA. I'm afraid if CA smears or oozes out around the edges which it almost definitely will it will mar the paint. Would Micro Kristal Klear give a good hold?

[@Eclipse-wp4oy]

when i paint it should i glue it first or paint it first?

[@ajmvfr]

You will get a lot of different answers to that question. The best answer I can give you is "it depends". I build in sub-assemblies and paint and glue. It really depends on the size of the kit, and what is easy two work with. When I did my big enterprise, I painted everything, then glues it, and had to go back and retouch and blend all seam lines. Sorry, its not a great answer, but it really depends on what you are doing.

[@madcat1007]

How do you prevent the brush from picking up paint and then discolouring the rest of the glue in the bottle?

[@ajmvfr]

I avoid it. if i paint first i will tape the edges or scrape the paint off. paint will contaminate the glue joint to a degree. there have been ocasions where i have gotten paint on the brush, but i wipe the tip of the brush on a paper towel i always keep nearby and I've never had a problem

[@raimonddelizo4348]

Is polystyrene cement toxic or can it damage the respiratory system??? Someone please tell me my through is very sore and I'm worried if I'm poisoned

[@TanTan-ni4mg]

Chlorox Bleach nope. Its actually the filler most companies use for salad dressing....

[@skulleader]

Hello dear Sir, In first a great thanks for this video, it's really perfect. I want build a plastic model kit and I bought this glue as you show us: Testor Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic 8872C. Please can you tell me if I've make the good choice for my plastic model kit ? In advance a great thanks for your assistance. Best regards.

[@ajmvfr]

If your building a normal plastic model it should work fine for you. It's a good glue.

[@skulleader]

+Anthony Morgan Hello dear Anthony a great thanks for your answer. Best regards :-)

[@EVANMN123]

i only use the tamiya the i is an E like bee so its like tameeya lol

[@barbaramatthews4735]

I'm looking for a good plastic glue. I'm practicing artificial nail art. This will NOT be used on humans. What I have is a hard plastic finger. Weird, I know. I'm not sure what this plastic is but it is hard and it is just something to work on. I have tried nail glue, which is basically Super Glue but may have a few added chemical ingredients. Close enough and because the nail glue is safe for human (sage enough and approved by FDA) But the practice finger is just a nonliving model to build skills. OK super glue or nail glue does not adhere a nail tip to it. The nail tip is an acrylic plastic. I need to glue a tip on it to simulate a fingernail. Would model glue be an option?

[@donaldgilbert6739]

what is the kicker?

[@ajmvfr]

The kicker I used was the stuff from Bob Smith industries or something like that.

[@ajmvfr]

I just watched the video again, it's been a while. The blue bottle labled kicker is the same stuff I used in the brown spray bottle called insta-set. that is the product I mentioned in the previous reply. I put it in a dropper bottle for better control.

[@sypher0101]

10:37 why not glue the joining surface then clap together?

[@ajmvfr]

because the wicking glues are water thin, and they are intended to wick into the gap and melt the 2 sides together. It's just the type of glue. The glue just flashes off to quick to work with it conventionally and apply the glue first then clamp.

[@KimcheeRacing]

Very good info. FYI, Tamiya is pronounced tah-mee-yah, not tah-mah-yah.

[@garygullikson6349]

Big Deal!

[@adansalgado6877]

I need a glue strong enough to fix broken metal body die cast

[@ajmvfr]

sorry, I don't work with metals. I don't know would actually work.

[@KimcheeRacing]

Dunno how much your local hobby shop charges for that tiny bottle of bob smith CA accelerator, but mine wanted over $15 for that. I found the same stuff at my local Woodcraft for only $10 in a freaking giant aerosol can. www.woodcraft.com/products/stick-fast-aerosol-activator-7-5oz

[@ranaydanek2949]

Sir, this is a terrible video. You started out by dismissing the fact that the testers glues do exactly what a Tamiya, etc, do. My biggest beef, is it your all concerned about leaving finger prints on the outside of a barrel. How do you clamped the barrel after cementing the piece, you would’ve had a more even seem, which was exponentially stronger. You would’ve had mild squeeze out, which you could have scraped and buffed for a near flawless rounded surface. Most importantly, you don’t worry about fingerprints when you don’t dump glue all over the outside of your parts.