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IOANNINA: A TRIP TO THE LAKE AND ITS LEGENDS
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Mosques, monasteries and memories reflected in a shimmering lake
Myths surround the city of Ioannina. They hover in the mist that often hangs over its lake and the island in its centre. This time, the myths don’t revolve around gods and heroes, but rather historical personalities. Chief among them is Ali Pasha, the maverick 19th century Turko-Albanian ruler and his court. Intertwined with Ioannina’s history, in this corner of Western Greece, other myths haunt the old, walled district, the Kastro, the citadel of Its Kale, the Byzantine monasteries on the Island and the rich museums.
They are an inseparable part of the city’s life and you will feel their presence even in its green parks, in the little shops on Independence Street, in the groups of lively university students and their hangouts, in the lakeside restaurants, bars and cafes. You’ll catch glimpses of them in the peerless work of Ioannina’s famed silversmiths. And they may even follow you up to the cave at Perama, the theatre at Dodoni and the Zagorohoria mountain villages. Let yourself be captivated by the legends surrounding this beautiful city in Epirus.
What to do in Ioannina
Lake Pamvotis: a 20,000-year-old attraction!
City life revolves around this romantic lake. Get to know it by strolling along its banks, taking a boat ride, fishing, rowing, or having a drink on the lakefront. According to geologists at Cambridge University, it was formed between 20,000 and 26,000 years ago.
Nisi: the Island, a Byzantine realm
It’s only a short boat ride to the Island, but once there, you’ll have to walk. Make sure you visit the Byzantine monasteries (Agios Panteleimon), which all have wonderful frescoes. And then take some time to learn about Ali Pasha, the Lion of Epirus. Regarded by Napoleon as an equal, he was erratic, hosting a great number of foreign dignitaries in his palace, including Lord Byron. Finish your visit on a lighter note with a feast of local specialties, such as grilled trout and eel, at one of the island’s tavernas.
A walk by the lake with the mist for company
In early morning, a curtain of mist invariably hangs over the lake. When it lifts, the figures of cyclists, fishermen and strollers emerge on the lakeshore path, like paintings amidst the scattered sculptures by Epirot artists. You’ll walk in the shadow cast by the Kastro’s two mosques - Aslan and Fetihe.
The Kastro, a melting pot of religions and cultures
For centuries, Jews, Christians and Muslims coexisted in the alleys of this oldest, walled part of Ioannina. And their children played amongst Muslim monuments and synagogues. Today many of their pastel-coloured Macedonian-style houses are still lived in or have become boutique hotels. As you wander these atmospheric streets in the shadow of its sturdy walls, fascinating attractions will catch your eye; the Old Synagogue, the House of Pasha Kalou, the 18th century Soufari Serai, the Turkish baths (hammams) and lots more.
Its Kale, the Kastro’s inner citadel in Ioannina
Just sit in the cafe, encircled by the impressive buildings and walls of Its Kale with the lake beyond them, and you’ll feel transported back to another era. Then go explore the citadel in depth, for here are the Fetihe Mosque
Ancient Dodoni: oracle and theatre
A spectacular narrow valley, just 22km south of Ioannina, is the site of Dodoni, one of Greece’s most important archaeological sites. A centre of worship for the father of gods, a renowned oracle.
The Perama Cave, pride of the Balkans
A mere 4km from Ioannina, this cave ranks among the most extraordinary in the whole of the Balkan peninsula. Geologists date its age at 1.5 million years. See if you can discover all 19 different types of stalactites
Hidden gems of Ioannina
The fine art of Ioannina’s silversmiths
Handmade jewellery, flatware, trays and ecclesiastical objects all display a standard that comes from generations of experience crafting silver. Silversmiths were among the traditional occupations in Epirus from the 18th century on, with Ateliers at the Tzoumerka villages of Kalarrytes and Syrrako.
The wonderful museums of Ioannina
These include the Byzantine Museum in Its Kale, the Municipal Folk Art Museum, the Archaeological Museum and the Athanasios Vrellis Wax Museum, at Bizani.
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