is a Catch Can Destroying my ENGINE?

[@Jez3134]

When I first bought a dual cab, I was kinda blown away by the amount of daily "do I need a catch can?" and everyone throwing their money at provent and ryco ones on FB groups. In the performance car community we've always been using the baffled Cusco style ones on high powered street, drift, track cars for the last 20 years, they just work. I really don't remember the last thread on a forum about crankcase pressure unless talking about rings being worn. Then again FB has killed forums and all the good info a long with that. Some things in the 4wd community are just strange to me, some products are just really average and get a foothold in the market and people just go crazy for them. People paying a fortune for top mount intercooler kits, expensive stainless snorkels ($100 worth of mandrel bent pipe), off the shelf bolt on exhausts over $1200 and 4wd turbo kits with compressor/turbine wheels already decades old in design but more expensive than a modern Garrett. I swear, a lot of this stuff is just made to rip 4wd enthusiasts off.

[@bingysbackyard]

Yep I do a fair bit of offroad use and I think the only "4x4" accessories I have bought is a winch rope and a snatch block also tyres the rest of the other things I have used better alternatives and made most stuff myself for better durability than the accessory garbage that's for sale at 3 times the price it cost to make... and yes my "catch can" is literally a 1.25 coke bottle with 3 hoses feeding into it 2 from rocker cover 1 down to chassis rail

[@brianwalker1933]

@@bingysbackyard Agreed 100%. I'm a firm believer in the "KISS" method..."Keep It Simple Stupid"...☺

[@nickh843]

I’ve an ex Army Landrover 110, can’t agree more. I do fundraising offroad weekends and I’ve paid less all up than most have paid in added unnecessary accessories. Army had catch cans, will be checking my crank case pressure tomorrow after seeing this.

[@DieselRamcharger]

people are just dumber these days. all there is too it.

[@biggles9604]

I just got a ryco catch can don't tell me this :( did install it myself tho.

[@lexicase8805]

Catch cans are really only beneficial for a few reasons. An oily intercooler will be less efficient, and also oil mixed with egr soot can cause a blockage in the intake manifold. So yes, catch cans have a place for sure. But the filter is absolutely not necessary unless the catch can is designed to use that filter media as part of the oil removal process. Better designs are like Cross country 4x4's baffle design, and hpd uses a kind of steel wool design to catch the micro oil droplets. Both ive seen working personally, as a former employee of cross country 4x4 and running the dyno there, we frequently saw new oil leaks appear after installing these filter type catch cans, removed them and installed our own design and saw same or better oil removal ability, and also stopping oil seal leaks and just required a good clean, since theres actually nothing wrong with the seals, they just aren't designed to hold pressure. Also grant from cross country designed a baffle plate for the 1hz and 1hdt engine that prevents oil flicking off the cam and straight into the open port for egr, which seems to make a huge improvement even without a catch can, so you may be interested in that yourself!

[@willhooke]

Great comment, thank you 👍

[@martinlang9615]

Provent catch cans have a safety blow off valve which you will certainly see as black oil is all around the outside of the vent. IMO there is nothing to worry about if the catch can has been designed properly.

[@Nate......]

Catch cans work and anyone who thinks they're not necessary is telling worng! The problem is you're buying those with the filters that just clogged up! Catch cans are made to catch oil not filter it. By the metal one with the baffles that don't clogge

[@heavypizzas6004]

Also, the HPD Catch Can scores really poorly. I believe it has internal baffles. I'm baffled why anybody would still buy one after reading the results of Curtin University's testing, personally.

[@hwylife707]

Ok, the filter is giving you surface area for the oil mist to collect , becoming droplets that end up in the “can” Best idea is take the filter out and replace it with a course steel wool, this would give more surface area but no air flow restriction…well that’s what I found…hope it helps

[@mohammadnoormauludadnan1847]

Your steel wool to fine, used course ones

[@bjorn1583]

@@mohammadnoormauludadnan1847 stainless steel ones are best

[@timjustice8516]

this is wat i have done in the past

[@cia8956]

+ bigger hoses and issues solved :)

[@kevinoneill41]

Yes. I am using loose-knitted SS pot-scrubbing pads and a heavily baffled inlet tube that runs to the bottom of the can to help evenly disperse the vapor throughout the SS wool filter. In my 4"X7" catch can with 1" entry and exit ports. Having great results. The can is equipped with a 3/8" ball check drain valve.

[@kevinoneill41]

Yes my 6.4 /2008 F350 oil filler cap would almost blow out of my fingers. Removed the CCV hose return after the cold air filter plugged the hole going back to the engine to be returned. The CCV is now being vented into the atmosphere. Now run that line through a 1" ID tube to a large 4"X7" catch can with multiple baffles and packed with loose SS pot scrubby pads with a 1.5" open chamber at the bottom of the catch can to create a reservoir to collect any oil and other contaminants. This reservoir has a 3/8" ball check drain valve on the bottom to drain the collected oil and contaminants. The catch can is showing good airflow exiting the can. The CCV pressure seems much less as the oil filter cap no longer floats over the oil filler hole. The catch can is filtered and remains vented to the atmosphere. Now engine seals and gaskets no longer have high pressure being forced against them. That could lead to premature failure. ❤ 👍

[@mikewesty2864]

Relevant video Pat. The other thing to consider is hose size, joints used and filter flow properties... imagine your blowing up a balloon that's super soft and has a large mouth piece, it's easy. Then try and blow up a water balloon (tiny opening, thick rubber) it's super hard to blow up... Catch cans need to vent a relevant amount of air for the motor they're installed on and the hoses and fittings used need to accommodate this air flow too. And yes always clean the filter, just like you would your air filter, oil filter, cabin filter.... it's not filtering if it's full, then it's just blocking.

[@DanielB-py1yi]

This has certainly raised some important questions. I feel to test if properly though, you should of purchased a new filter and retested. Filters gets blocked and will cause restrictions in any matter of flow, whether it be air, oil or fuel.

[@scottbobo6194]

The idea behind a catch can is to trap, via loose baffles, oil and water that might otherwise end up in your intake manifold. That's it. You don't need to filter the air or treat it in any other way. Fine filters are going to get clogged - don't use them. Just use a set of baffle plates in the can that provide a surface for the airborne oil to adhere to on its way through the can. You don't have to catch 100% of the oil, but you DO HAVE TO PERMIT THE FREE FLOW OF AIR. Baffles will do all that. You'll trap 95% of the oil in the can and your crankcase will be vented by manifold vacuum.

[@upenguin973]

so you don’t need a filter in the catch can?

[@scottbobo6194]

@@upenguin973 No, no filter needed. You're not trying to filter the oil in the crankcase vapors - you already have an oil filter for that. The crankcase vapors just need to make contact with a (relatively) cool piece of metal and the liquids (water vapor and oil mist) will adhere to it, then drip down into the bottom of the can. Some cans come with a sintered bronze "filter" at the outlet but honestly, for a GDI engine that can go 60k miles without ANY kind of PCV capture, it's overkill.

[@madmurf]

I wouldn't recommend a filtered CC. They clog up heaps quicker and get the pressure build up. Baffled or even an alloy one away from the heat as much as possible so the vapors condense. Nice work on the video lads. EGR is a different issue and just a couple of electronic mods can eliminate the clogging intake from a EGR. I have 3.2l Pajero and did the mod at 2500Ks. It now got 160000Ks on the clock and blows no smoke and still has heaps of power with no strip down of the intake manifold needed.

[@em4703]

I don't understand why people would even install these. They need maintenance every few tens of thousands of km, things to change and replace in them etc. Why do all this, when you can just buy a new PCV valve in the same interval of time?

[@willhooke]

What electronic mod deals with EGR and the resulting gunge?

[@daniellamers4606]

Hear about it all the time on modern Utes too, a lot of tuners don’t recommend them these days. Just extend the breather into the chassis rail for some rust prevention 😉

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

1940's "road draft tube".....popular until the 1960's Have a look at photos of old American concrete freeways.... A huge oil streak right down the middle of each lane where the dripping oil just fell on the ground.....

[@user-tq6ic4in3j]

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq still see a bit of it today hahaha

[@Dudesunperfect]

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq lol yeah some roads still have them around the place.

[@daniellamers4606]

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq iv seen cars with them in particular the 4jj1 Isuzu motors that have had them in the chassis rail for tens of thousands of kms and never had one drip. Can see a little bit of oil vapor that’s it.

[@geoffbell166]

@@Jay151 Go to China and make them change,see how it goes for you....

[@operation4wheelz]

Contrary to what the internet says… catch cans are certainly not a mandatory mod. A diesel in good condition, driven at operating temps should be fine. It’s short drives and heaps of cold starts where engine tolerances aren’t optimal is where the dramas start. Modern diesels included

[@mickypoo]

Isn't that most people though? At least the other half who have to also use their diesel for commutes/shopping during the week.

[@operation4wheelz]

@@mickypoo yep. That’s partially my point. Clogged inlets are a small minority. And Most people don’t have catch cans

[@NordicDan]

Certainly not mandatory, but it's important to have a can that doesn't add to the crankcase pressure if you do add one. I've run a home built can for almost 20 years on my gasser (3FE) with no leaks beyond the long-present oil pan seal leak, which is very slight anyway. The can has done great for keeping my intake manifold clean and preventing sludge buildup on my intake valves (last checked with a boroscope about three years ago).

[@shanerorko8076]

That short drive story is used by so many people but it's wrong. Most engines are at operating temp within 5 to 10 minutes. I've had many diesels at work with clogged intakes and they have long commutes. The biggest factor to diesel engines clogging their intake apart from the EGR is oil choice. I still know mechanics in the trade that think Delo 500 is the best oil for all diesels. When they're run on the correct oil they can do 7500km intervals if the intervals are 15km. See this is the conundrum 15km intervals are for highway use city use ie the wives tale short trip story should be 7.5km intervals with the correct oil.

[@chessimate]

​@@shanerorko8076what diesel oil do you recommend for 1HDFTE?

[@danielsundberg1977]

I have a HPD can which doesn't have a fibrous filter, it has a perforated cylinder which just gives a surface for the vapour to hit and then drain off of so it doesn't block flow unless you do not empty the collected oil out of it. I have had mine on for over 100,000km on my V9X Navara which is a heavy breather and have had no leaks from the rear main at all.

[@jacksonwelch9870]

I’m a mechanic and all cars need a catch can in my opinion especially modern cars that burn 3L of oil between services mostly through the PCV valve (looking at you VW) I’ve fitted a couple Ryco and provent catch cans and to be honest I think they’re a bad design a baffled catch can is much better opposed to one with a filter element inside Also a ryco catch can filter being $110 is a ridiculous additional maintenance cost when a simple baffled catch can with a drain is cost free to maintain

[@1RednBlue]

Hey mate out of interest - why are baffled so much better than filtered?

[@jacksonwelch9870]

@@tom6549 so you think it’s a good idea for VWs to burn 3L of oil through the engine and that that’s healthy for it??? Petrol engines are still effected by carbon buildup hence why VWs ping their engines to death especially when run on 91 like most of them are

[@jacksonwelch9870]

@@1RednBlue there’s basically no restriction but the oil will hit the baffles and drop to the bottom of the can Won’t stop all the oil but will still stop the majority, i have a customer with a navara that empties his baffled type catch can every 5000km because it’s full so they clearly work well The ones with filters inside are too much of a restriction and in addition to the PCV valve and is why manufacturers hate them well why they hate catch cans in general

[@jacksonwelch9870]

@@tom6549 also I know a local dealer who are getting mechanics I worked with to come in and do carbon cleans on their new DI vehicles Also ask Subaru why they have been selling upper cylinder cleaner aka carbon cleaner as a service item since the early 2000s before DI petrol was around

[@sfvirgo]

right i had just a cheapo can wit a steel scrub pad, worked perfect just on the smaller side so had to b drained often... i just did it everytime i filled the tank lol

[@fatmanoverlanding]

Not all catch cans are created equal. Try installing a different catch can (ie. filterless etc), and see if that makes a difference for you.

[@yslee1401]

Agreed. Those catch cans that come with stainless steel “wool” ones will unlikely cause the back pressure

[@stevemac3612]

Oil vapour going through the intake is fine. It's when the vapour cools and becomes sludgy oil again which is the problem. When I started working as a technician catch cans never had filters. They were the stainless steel baffled type. This worked perfectly as it acted like an intercooler for the PCV, cooling the hot oil vapour and make it liquid again. Plastic catch cans are obviously cheaper to produce. Unfortunately plastic is an insulator preventing the vapour from cooling, so they needed to add a filter to clean the air. This added restriction to the PCV which is clearly not good. Get a metal baffled one.....

[@Nate......]

Yes and stop getting those filters that just clogged up! Catch cans are made to catch oil not filter it. SMH

[@slickstrings]

Neither of you understand how these things work. They are not 'filters' as such. They dont trap oil vapor based on particle size. They essentially provide a large surface area for the air to spread out over, the speed slows down and the oil vapor drops out of the flow on the membrane, eventually building up and falling down with gravity. its called coalescence. Same thing those baffle types are trying to do, but far better. Also, plastic and metal... i dont know why you think metal is superior. You think metal is going to stay cool in an engine bay? metal will get hot and stay hot for longer. That is not the issue at all. No catch can system is designed to encourage cooling. At all. Do you see vents? fins? coolant lines running to them? There are no active or passive cooling features in catch cans regardless of material. Metal and plastic will both match the ambient temperature they are exposed to + temp of the air flowing through them. It is not a consideration at all. Unless you have found a catch can system that has tubes inside like an F1 style intercooler which are cooled by coolant or conduction to an external radiator... no. your metal baffles will quickly reach whatever temp they are exposed to. If there is high restriction being caused its because of poor design or setup. Not all catch cans are created equal. R&D is a real thing and if an aftermarket company is trying to cash in, its unlikely they have done extensive flow and efficacy testing. Also, If the user has set up a generic kit with poorly thought out hose lines, flow restriction may be caused and the blame will probably be levelled at the can itself. Truth is, most people dont understand bernoulli's principle. even so called 'technicians'. Ive heard apparently very experienced diesel mechanics make pretty dumb claims like 'water injection makes more power, therefore high humidity is better for horsepower' not uderstanding the function of change of phase. Technician indeed. ive seen lots of people claiming the steel baffled types are superior. This usually comes from the simple observation style 'its got oil in it, it must be working great' level of testing. Ive yet to see any amateur user or 'technician' perform any bench testing in a controlled environment that can confirm their claims or rival the available data a reputable manufacturer such as provent provides. To illustrate my point, ISUZU trucks have a factory optioned catch can system which uses a coalescence style filter... and the housing is made of plastic. Nuff said.

[@robertclymer6948]

This is Awesome information all catch can owners need to consider. Especially Mishimoto catch cans with the screw bronze filter at the top of the can. It creates way too much back pressure in the PVC line and pressurizes the crankcase. Good catch Arvos!!!! Cheers from Michigan usa.

[@OzTrax4X4]

Having come from a spare parts background both in an aftermarket and dealership environment, I can give you a fun fact. I worked at a Mitsubishi dealership for four years in spares, and they had laser cut EGR valve blanking plates for the diesel Tritons, because the high SAPS (sulfated ash, phosphorus and sulfur) content in the oil, mixed with exhaust gas would coke up the intake manifolds and cause a lot of warranty issues. Their fix was to block the EGR and reprogram the ECU (yep, modern diesel). You don't have this issue in an indirect or direct injection diesel engine from the 90's, but definitely a problem with a modern Common Rail Diesel engine. The only time you would fit a catch can to a modern diesel is if its a turbo diesel, which the majority are. Older diesel engines, I wouldn't bother with it, even if they have a turbo strapped onto it.

[@andrewheadland9341]

Hi guys Berrimah diesel quotes old diesel like the 1HZ design don’t need a catch can your wasting your money. They have made many videos about catch cans

[@richardgroom988]

Love to hear Dan's opinions on this topic

[@paulholyoak]

Hey boys, great conversation starter this one. Hope you can follow this up soon with a comparison with the new filter. Also love to hear Dan's opinion on this. My opinion is that catch cans are only useful on diesels with EGR, as the oil in the blowby only causes a problem if it is heated by the exhaust gases which that cause it to solidify and block up the intake. This doesnt happen without an EGR.

[@DanielMacLean08]

Better option is to delete EGR through tune or delete cable, don’t really need a catch can if EGR not being used

[@trophybanana]

My experience can hold a stand here that my 3.0 AUDI TDI got a diesel runaway after a year of OCC usage. The crankcase pressure buildup was slow but steady, eventually leading to my valve cover gasket blowing up, causing a large amount of oil to spill. The most damage was done to the small oil pathways, which are more sensitive to oil pressure changes, such as the oil cooling system in the turbo. The pressure eventually burst the cooling tunnel in my turbo, letting the working turbo suck in a massive amount of oil directly into the combustion chamber and financially contribute to the catastrophic runaway event.

[@nicknick7052]

@@trophybanana OMG, that's really bad.

[@romaindappe4139]

​@DanielMacLean08 you still have blow by gases coming past the pistons into the crank case and being recirculated into the intake. Egr is only half of the problem

[@red_rocket.]

The provent has 2 valves to ensure that the pressure does not get high. The 1st is the main pressure regulator where the air comes out towards the air filter. I has a spring and according to provent the max pressure at 100% load = 10mbar (1kpa). There is also a safety valve under the lid. If you don't change the filter and it gets blocked then it will open and oil vapour will come out from the lid and make a mess. If you have a leaking main seal it is just a bad main seal and maybe the catch can back pressure is enough to increase the leak. My 1HD-T 240,000Ks had a provent and it needed changing. The oil leaked out of the lid so it had max back pressure and no main seal leak. Hi Glen Munro. The CT26 turbo you did for me a couple of years ago is going a treat

[@davexstuntman]

Berrima Diesel had a video not long back saying definitely don’t fit one to an 80 or other older diesel motors. I’m getting rid of my one. Thanks for the vid 👍

[@Dudesunperfect]

I have been told by a few mechanics not to install one. They recon they cause more problems than what they are worth. A few said it builds up the pressure in the engine due to the filter and causes leaks.

[@grimreaper6112]

not a set and forget thing

[@Dudesunperfect]

@@grimreaper6112 even the new filters restrict flow drastically

[@toddjohnson7787]

Yes catch cans do restrict the original airflow intended for cars to have but there’s one simple solution or fix. Just install a one way check valve crankcase breather to replace your regular engine oil cap. That way the crankcase pressure is released and problem solved. This is my own personal setup for my 2023 Ford F150 5.0 Coyote and it works perfectly!

[@brenenfisher9324]

I recommend the baffle type catch cans, They are often the cheaper ones and probably don't catch as much oil but they only consist of baffles and no filter medium so theirs basically no restriction.

[@Dudesunperfect]

Yeah that’s what I was thinking would be better. It just reduces the flow a fraction, not restricts it. And that would catch the vapours.

[@captainfunevents]

This is what i use, it has a mesh filter and thats it, catches heaps of oil overtime

[@krump743]

Lmfao may as well not even run a catch can. The baffle ones are garbage, and with all the oil they let get past you may aswell not even have it fitted.

[@brenenfisher9324]

@@krump743 They definitely aren't as affective as the filter type, but from my experience they still collect a fair amount of oil.

[@MikesRigs]

We used to use stainless steel scourers in catch cans, i imagine a paper style filter element would block very quickly. Keep in mind, too much pressure from the sump, blowby, can be compression ring(s) wearing out

[@jayarre1839]

i run a provent 200 on my gq, important thing to note is the hose size, i used 16mm id to the catch can aswell as from the can back to intake. i’ve had it on for over 40k and no issues, prevents have a pressure relief valve built in aswell. not sure if the ryco has that. also change the filter every 25k

[@vincegiordmaina4440]

Thats exactly what i was thinking, my provent has a pressure valve.

[@td42dirtygq]

@@vincegiordmaina4440 spot on I have all my mates running provent 200 and thay all happy with them and there is a lot of reports of hpd ryco and so on having problems

[@devarmont87]

Same thing happened to my 2013 navara d22. Did the "internet trend" catch can, and then about 2 years later my turbo was leaking oil, and kept blowing oil into the intercooler, the USA army could invade my intercooler for oil there was that much, which to me, personally speaking, id rather not have oil in the intercooler and leaking turbo to risk diesel runaway which is the death of your diesel if you cant respond fast enough to choke your conpressor fan. You can argue that catch cans are a good idea for some engines, but there's no blanket rule, trial and error your own engine and keep an eye out for any oil leaks. If you find one, fuk that can right off.. your manufacturer did design your engine to work, and modifying that can only lead to failure. Most mechanics now offer diesel intake cleaning solutions, thar cost anywhere from $200 - $1200 and this cleans out your manifold if you're worried. $200 a year or two is cheaper than an engine/turbo rebuild or rear main seal replacement.. Catch cans in my opinion are an internet trend backed by opinion rather than mechanical engineering. Trial and error your engine and work it out for your self. Merry Christmas ⛄

[@leetischler6347]

Just run a few steel wool scrubber in the catch can without the paper element. It won't stop all the oil, but it will reduce it and no chance of it blocking up as long as you remember to empty it. Similar principle to the HPD catch cans

[@adambrown6125]

Thanks fellas just found my problem with my 08 Hilux gonna get rid of the filter today. Blown rear seal at 45,000 KMs.

[@Michael_Mears]

The Ryco RC3551 catch can has a relief valve set for 4kpa, or about 0.6psi. A adult human can exert between 0.8 to 1.7psi when exhaling, say, inflating a balloon. If your rear engine seal cannot handle the amount of air you could blow into the engine crank case with your own lungs, that's a problem. Most likely, check the relief vale on the catch can. Of course, if the relief valve is working fine and is opening while the engine is running, the filter must be the restriction. Clean or replace the filter.

[@WatoHDJ80]

2 things I picked up on. You cleaned the oil from the rear main after 5000kms of use and then checked it after 2 weeks, unless you did 5000kms in 2 weeks there's no real comparison, there will always be less oil. Secondly, no filter/cap off and filter cap off isn't a proof of pressure. Air is fluid, it will always take the path of least resistance. The breather going to you induction would in theory actually try and suck so as soon as there is a small amount of resistance ie. A used filter all the normal pressure will leave past the cap. I was about to buy a ryco catch can for my 80 but I won't be now. At around $100 for a new filter there's gotta be a better way. Good video, mate.

[@keeganholland8372]

A perfect example of how brand snobby people wouldn’t be right in this situation by not running a cheap baffle catch can that wouldn’t restrict. And also surely supercheap is taking the piss with $115 for a filter

[@8ooo0]

No filters! Pack it lightly with steel wool as a conveyance for the oil and things to stick to. This also helps avoid oil slushing around in the can while driving. The 2uz draws air from the intake manifold through the crank case on the passenger side, out on the drivers side and into the intake manifold. Without a 500ml catch can(that isnt factory included, $30 amazon) I had oil and fine particulate 'mud' throughout. After installation(3000mi ago) the intake manifold was dry. MPG went up too!

[@munroturboandcustom]

I am so glad you did a video on catch cans. Been building/modifying turbo's for over 30 years and the diesel turbo's that leak oil are common and All have catch cans. This is very common were the owner thinks the turbo is stuffed the it is only leaking because the sump is pressurised from a poor catch can. Thanks. Glenn

[@tristanstephens9076]

Seen this a few times first thing i check now if the breather is blocked.

[@AussieArvos]

Thanks for the comment Glen! I really appreciate the info!

[@mathewsimonelli1332]

I made a mistake on my td42 when installing the turbo . silly mistake but thought I blew the turbo but that wasn't the case. was just that the turbo wouldn't drain oil and started spitting oil out the exhaust . all due to crank case presure . I don't think the amount of presure your talking about would cause the rear main seal to leak . or likely to see your turbo leaking oil out into your exhaust

[@munroturboandcustom]

@@mathewsimonelli1332 Crank case pressure can cause the turbo seal to leak on older engines especially if the seals are older and not 100% perfect. I see this all the time and common on diesel engines mostly with catch cans. Not with the same mileage/ age petrol engines because not common or trendy to fit catch cans on petrol turbo engines.

[@tristanstephens9076]

Another thing is people having the turbo drain too low on the sump, below the oil level causes preasure in the turbo to push the oil out too

[@morgancook4128]

Definitely recommend something like an HPD catch can, i think it’s already mentioned but because it’s a baffle type can there’s barely any pressure difference to running no catch can

[@AussieArvos]

Thanks Morgan, yeah heard pretty good things about them

[@jeepnutscotty]

@@AussieArvos you guys seen the same effect when removing the restrictive filter, replace it with some steel wool bud n it won't pressurise your internals

[@thdjnr]

I put one of these on my td42 easy to install and a quality Aussie made billet aluminium construction, idiot it at 320k after I replaced the intake,turbo,manifold, and intercooler engine is still running fine but I wanted to reduce the vapour going into the intercooler

[@sm9300]

I had one of the HPD cans, they still spit enough oil vapours out to slowly fill my intercooler with gunk. And yes the can was emptied, so I ended up just removing it to get back some space. now I just run a single hose down to the chassis, illegal I know but hey I gave up on catch cans and wasting Hundreds of dollars...

[@Rockstarrred]

@@sm9300 "illegal I know" .... I hope your best mate or Dad don't drive a motorbike. Oil on the road can kill people guy, and just because you're one person doing it with limited oil doesn't mean shit, you're contributing to the problem.

[@taghiggins7387]

I was always confused by peoples obsession with catch cans. If you dont have an egr or common rail why would you need one? I think this is a huge failure on the 4x4 industry recomending them. Berrima deisel have a great comon sense video on this exact issue.

[@AXDBTW]

Well said I have an 80 too, you don’t need one on the old diesels haha, new ones however I think you do

[@06hunter54]

@@AXDBTW that doesn’t make sense, so you wouldn’t t put one on an old diesel car but you’d put one on a new car and stuff up the rear main seal?

[@taghiggins7387]

Yeah no doubt mate ya probably right there. I also rember a video roothy done at terain tamer while building Milo 2 where he put a catch can on a 12ht and recommended anyone with a diesel engine to put one on. I'm the world's most basic mechanic was always a bit bamboozled by it all. It's just been great marketing by the industry convincing alot of people that they need something they really don't.

[@alfenner3309]

So I have a 06 mustang 4.0 v6 that is supercharged. I'm confused by this as well with my own scenario. The pcv has essentially been deleted, meaning the hoses are no longer on the pcv valve passenger side and drivers side ccv. My egr has been deleted as well. Mostly because of the install of the supercharger and it taking up the room to put back on, but after doing some research the egr delete is a good thing with superchargers. I live where no emissions are a thing, so me personally am not worried about that. So I'm thinking of adding a oil breather cap and a closed loop 3 port catch can to connect to the pcv and ccv. The "out" hose I'll run to the frame of the car and thus should theoretically get a bit of ventilation out of that as well. Your thoughts? Thanks

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

@@06hunter54 Yes, the older diesel engines don’t have egr so you don’t need one, it’s a complete waste of time. The problem is with later diesel’s and the egr. The pvc returns engine vapour to the intake manifold so it leaves an oily residue in the manifold which is not a problem but when the egr valve opens it allows exhaust to enter the inlet manifold at the same time. The egr is not open all the time, only under certain light driving conditions, but when it is open the oil vapour and soot from the exhaust mixes together to for an almost cement like build up. This can eventually block the intake manifold. The catch can is designed to catch and separate the oil vapour before it goes into the inlet manifold thereby reducing the buildup of gunk in the manifold. A catch can is not a maintenance free item and the can needs to be drained periodically, I do mine every six months just before my Cruiser goes in for a service and the filters need to be changed at specified intervals. It can be surprising to see not only how much oil drains out but the amount of water too. Just to note the egr only opens at light throttle and below about 60km/h if memory serves me correctly so vehicles that do a lot of highway miles have much less of a problem. The whole Exhaust Gas Recirculation system is only for pollution reduction. There are different methods for disabling the egr such as blocking plates but these can cause error codes, there are ways around that, and more recent are plug and play computer chips that trick the ecu into to keeping the egr valves closed without throwing up error codes. These are for pre dpf vehicles. I have a 2020 Sahara so it’s got the dpf as well so that’s a whole other issue that I knew nothing about when I ordered the car. I had a particular set of circumstances that lead us to ordering the car over the phone without even sitting in one or going into the dealership. So far I have had no issues with the dpf and it’s very easy to see how it’s going, the automatic regeneration work perfectly but if I need to do a manual regeneration it’s just a press a button, but again it’s just something to keep an eye on. I hope this helps to clarify why later diesel engines can benefit from a catch can. Cheers Stuart.

[@richardpilla5524]

Only reason they push for catch cans on modern diesels is because it's illegal to turn turn off the egr system. If you remove oil from the intake with egr, your then have exhaust gases pretty much sand blasting your valve seats. Oil is only the glue in egr diesels, it's the exhaust gases you really need to remove but is illegal for epa reasons.

[@jadddjames]

To purely cut the bs out of it a catch can is to catch the oil collection in the air that would otherwise hit your intake and make a build up of crud and oil. The most common issue ive seen is people install and never replace those filters and go off how many KMs the filter says it lasts. But really those tests were done under ideal conditions and apply to only 15% at best of the cars on the road. When in realisticly you should see how much comes out when you drain it everyweek and check the filter. But people want a set and forget option which isnt the case. I service my diesels on hours they run not kms. I do an oil change monthly on my old girls and 3 monthly on my newer diesels. People get pissy hearing this but its what keeps them in good nick. Cheers boys love watching your content.

[@doraexplora9046]

Having had diesel boat motors, serving by hours makes sense. Maybe I should put an hour meter on my van?

[@danhollingsworth4366]

Have a hpd catch can on my boosted 1hz and have no dramas with excessive crank case pressure due to the fact hpd catch can use a Series of screens to catch the oil not a filter that blocks up given it’s not as effective as a proper filter but still is able to filter out enough oil to keep the inlet manifold clean and it catches the oil in the bottom of it for easy servicing

[@HarmanMotorWorks]

Good video and a very contentious subject indeed. I think the problem is that catch can setups invariably have long piping and/or even too-narrow hoses/passages. This can all cause excess crankcase pressure and can very well lead to weeping or blown seals. Look at the piping on a typical gasoline engine where it exits the PCV valve, and it's a very short pipe that leads directly to the intake manifold. This is at-odds in comparison to a catch can setup with very long piping...and potentially narrow hoses which can potentially build additional crankcase pressure, especially at higher RPMs.

[@R31IceMan]

Crank case oil vapour catch cans are now common in a lot of engines to reduce carbon deposits sticking to intake when ERG systems are on a engine. Especially with Euro 5 and up or Tier 4 engines. Old rule of thumb for commercial diesel engines is blow by can be twice the horsepower before worry. So if you have a 200hp diesel engine you don’t worry about blow by until it exceeds 400cfm at high idle. It’s also a Ryco filter. Very little chance they invest R&D in correct size of can and surface area of filter let a lone correct filter media. My provent 200 catch can filter media is nothing like the Ryco. It’s done 30,000km and doesn’t restrict crank case ventilation at all. It’s on a 2021 Ranger 3.2 and over engine life so far intake has no oil in the intake and the catch can has caught

[@UncannySense]

I just have a cheap baffle catch can no restriction...So I'd say it depends but I always had my doubts about the 'filtered' pro $ types.

[@jerry232366]

The Ryco catch can like many others have built into them a pressure relief valve. This prevents any pressure from building up. So no chance seals can leak. 2-3 weeks without the filter and you didn't see any weepage, but in comparison to how long with the filter? If you cleaned it and drove 2-3 weeks with the filter then you can compare the two.

[@1RednBlue]

Lads - be wary that volume and pressure are two vastly different things. As for catch cans - never ran one on my 75 and instead ran the blow by into the chassis. 1HZ is a work horse - your comment on modern vs old I agree with. Have a Provent on my 200 and it pulls so much shit out I wouldn’t dare run without one.

[@zackgarcia5471]

Just bought an 07 Hilux and doing my research on all of this stuff as a first time diesel 4x4 owner. It seems that there are upsides to having a catch can, just needs to be maintained/watched. With the introduction of the EGR it seems necessary to have one so the re-circulation is super clean, or am I wrong on that? Just like you im not a mechanic, but learning about all of this, is good fun and at the end of the day I just want to be able to maintain my car for as long as possible & be ahead on preventative maintenance as opposed to the car breaking and having to fix it. Appreciate the video mate!

[@TheScary79]

Another great video and very interesting topic, I myself had same blowby with my turbo 1HZ but since changing my catch can filter every time i do an oil change so every 7k of driving it gets a new filter and the blowby doesn't seem to be an issue. i do want to put a front mount intercooler on in the near future and dont want it full of oil.

[@robertdaley7132]

Thanks Pat for your two cents. I have a Ryco CC on my ZD Patrol, I was having issues with lots of smoke on start up I was thinking I have done valve stem seals. I just recently changed the filter for it and there is no more smoke. I was getting ready to send in my spare head for a reco. I had a billet aluminum CC with steel wool inside, in the car before and i changed it because the gaskets on were leaking so I "upgraded". i never had a smoking issue before with the old CC. I will go and test with no filter now.

[@bjorn1583]

paper filters are just another way automotive parts producers rip you off

[@brodybaker960]

Breather hose straight into the chassis

[@stan_smith395]

Shouldn't need too if doesn't have egr wouldn't it just burn it off anyway if there no egr?

[@adventurehungry]

Have seen similar issues in motorbikes. Most people that removed stock air boxes and replaced with aftermarket filters without air-box had issues with oil leaks or oil consumption. Stock airboxes have crank case hose venting into then and reducing crank case pressure. After removing stock airbox they vent hose into atmosphere with small filter on the end of it. Bikes engines cruise at 5-10000rpms at such rpms a small restrictions can add up very quickly. If you see anyone with motorbike complaining about oil consumption ask them if they done airbox mode and how are they venting crank case. As people say “If its not broken , it hasnt been modified enough”

[@marksedgwick2521]

Did you think that maybe just maybe it was time for the rear main seal to let go?

[@AussieArvos]

Yeah 100% could be that too, I was just curious into whether the catch could had accelerated this happening

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

But the rate of oil leaking when the engine runs can be minimised by "sucking" the crankcase to a slight vacuum...?

[@marksedgwick2521]

The catch cans sole job is to catch oil particals it doesn't change the amount of pressure even though you kind of proved it does... I changed the rear seal on mine when the clutch went then fitted the provent knock off catch can 7 years no leak

[@PaulBatty81]

I put a catch can on my Wifes old GU, never had any leaks beforehand, 3 weeks after the install, it leaked heavily from the main seal and the rear of the rocker cover, rocker cover gasket was only done 8 months before, I won't be putting one in her D40 she now has and it's currently leak free serviced every 5000kms with no worries

[@ApathyGates]

I *believe* it's from the earlier versions of catch cans. I know that Provent has released a different type of inner-lid last year as I got one with my replacement filter.

[@BillSaltbush]

Yep. Get a catch can with a pressure relief valve as an integral part of it.

[@mdbacolod]

Mann and hummel clearly state in their catalogue that the provent is not a one size fits all which is why they have a few different version depending on the engine requirements. Most resellers only sell the provent 200 version but that has a blowby L/min and engine kw limit capacity aswell. Provent has been around well before they hit the 4wd scene. They were mainly developed for commercial diesel trucks in europe.

[@Luke-bt3nm]

100% a thing, both myself and a mate were running catch cans on our hiluxs and both out valve giver gaskets started weeping because of the pressure build up

[@einfelder8262]

Because you used cheap ass catch cans and installed them backwards.

[@TangodownNZ]

Good work. Good attitude. I think you are on to something that we have missed. Its definitely not good to over pressurise the engine. Also don’t think because the pressure difference seems small that its not a big deal. Thank you for bringing this to our attention

[@Noodlesubie]

HPD billet catch can is the go. No filters. Definitely worth it on modern diesels with egr especially when the egr is blocked. I’m very happy with mine on my D22 navara

[@Berawabilly]

If the egr is blocked there’s absolutely no need for a catch can.

[@Noodlesubie]

@@Berawabilly depends where ya block it. My catch can still fills up with oil so it’s doing something. If you delete your EGR completely then yeah no need for a catch can

[@bigmick76]

I run a catch can in my 92 GQ 4.2L to save oil in the intercooler system. Change the can filter every 5,000km when I change the motor oil and oil filters and it works great.

[@robcarroll2403]

Do your rear main bro, run it through your chassis rail extra rust protection 😂

[@toddjohnson7787]

Yes catch cans do restrict the original airflow intended for cars to have but there’s one simple solution or fix. Just install a one way check valve crankcase breather to replace your regular engine oil cap. That way the crankcase pressure is released and problem solved. This is my own personal setup for my 2023 Ford F150 5.0 Coyote and it works perfectly! I went with the company UPR for my catch can and one way check valve crankcase breather.

[@tcmonster]

It depends how you recirc the catch can. Recirculating the catch can into the intake should help with pressure, due to the vacuum drawn from the intake and the pressure from the crankcase. They should equal out. You could hypothetically run an air pump from the crankcase to atmosphere to get as close to neutral air pressure in the crankcase as an experiment. Attach a pressure gauge on the oil filler cap to test this out :)

[@DieselRamcharger]

lmao. fuck no dude. they vent into the exhaust stream.

[@Pete-hy4mq]

@@DieselRamcharger say what! Please explain ?

[@DieselRamcharger]

@@Pete-hy4mq why would you plumb a catch can back into the motor? Just so to reintroduce the detonation causing oily mist back into the engine? You people are fucking clueless. modern motors use low tension rings, you need to keep the crankcase evacuated. You can only do this by sucking on the straw. You have only 2 sources of air flow in an engine. Intake and Exhaust. Only one of them draws air AWAY from the engine. Using the exhaust to scavenge is the way its done on high performance engines.

[@liang2512]

I think every car is different especially the newer engines these days. After I watched this video I went tested on my 2022 MUX that is fitted with a Provent 200 catch-can since day 3 after I brought the car. As I unscrew the cap to the last thread it almost wanted to jump off. If I completely unscrew it, it will not stay on there. It will want to do somersaults. This is with catch can closed and sealed. Then I removed the catch can cap and just let the blow-by fumes comes out from it and then undo the oil cap, the behavior was the same. Still vibrate/jump like before without feeling the pressure is any weaker. So if catch can with dirty filter will increase the crankcase pressure, then as soon as I remove the catch can cap the blow-by pressure should visibily reduced like seen in this video, but it did not. I wonder if the video you saw that showed cap stopped jumping right after catch can cape remove, did he hook up his catch can the wrong way. I heard many cases that people hook up their catch can the wrong way which causes excessive crankcase pressure (essentially blocked) build up.

[@robertbullimore4243]

check out berima diesel, they talk about catch cans all the time, sure in older clunkers you dont need them

[@abrighterday508]

People spend years at school learning how to build stuff properly..very rarely can anything successfully make engines, especially these engines, better..better off revving it out a bit and keep it standard I say..

[@adamposadas4163]

My diesel mechanic who is an expert with cruisers and 4jj1s does not recommend catch cans for the same reason. He basically wouldn't let me put one on, says a EGR delete is enough

[@nosignal88]

AUSSIE ARVOS... Honestly you need to throw a clean filter in to get a real test result... and if your servicing the car every 5k and ryco says catchcan every 20 do it every 10 But Honestly if you dont have an EGR or DPF dont bother dude remove it alltogether and only get a provent in futire if you get a modern diesel. Edit . I AM A DIESEL MECHANIC SINCE 2006

[@shipoffools2183]

The only thing that can pressurise your engine is blow back past the rings into the sump! The catch can helps stop engine vapours from being returned to the engine through the inlet manifold. When the engine is running the pcv valve and hose where your catch can is fitted, feeds into the air intake pre turbo, that is low pressure, everything outside the air intake is higher pressure and is trying to get inside it. The dirty filter is not letting the higher pressure through fast enough, but still the old engine has a little blow back.

[@notathome13]

All engines have a degree of pressure, it comes from gas escaping past piston rings. Other people have had issues with ryco catch can. Also unless you have an egr setup catch can are of no real gain for you.

[@shanerorko8076]

I disagree. Any engine with an intercooler should really have oil mitigation, I've had diesels run away on me at work from excess oil build up in the cooler.

[@jamieandrews3238]

In the states of aus where routine inspection isn't required. These old engines should vent to atmosphere. It lets the engine breath and stops your intake from filling with oil. Which is worse? burning oil or have a small amount drip on the ground. (Take into consideration that a leaking pressurised rear main will probably leak more then venting)

[@BecBenNDaz]

My understanding is that if you don’t have an EGR, then you don’t need a catch can.

[@LandTourier]

100% correct guys HZJ 80 1997 _250,000 on the clock installed Flash Lube Catch can pro. recommended change 40,000 and drain every 5000 installed professionally Berrima diesel when turbo fitted Blew out front crank seal and rear main after 8000klms changed seals thought they just were old and need replacing. Seals still leaked, front major with new seals. changed out filter with, Western Filters compatible for Flash Lube $40 Fixed leak for 3500 klms then started again running NO filter and NO leaks Waiting on genuine Flash Lube filter @ $110 Will see how it goes. But filter change rates seem to be over exaggerated for older rigs and need to be done much more frequently. For new 4x4's it's probably closer to being correct. Wouldn't know though, got a mint 80... Running a catch can on the 80 removes the fumes from the rig and no smoke blow ever while running much cleaner all round. You're on it guys and love your work

[@yusuf.alajnabi]

As a diesel mechanic of 20 years experience I can say this. I have seen trucks with and without catch cans fitted. Manufacturers design engines and spend heaps on RnD. If a catch can was needed they would have fitted it. They are not race cars so they dont need them. Regularly servicing and maintenance is the key to longevity.

[@troy3456789]

They do not put them on at the factory because they require regular maintenance, more frequently than changing the oil. In direct injection engines, there's a lot of buildup on the inside of the valves over many thousands of kilometers, plus you're introducing, into the combustion chamber, water and oil where there should ideally be clean air only. Less of a difference of carbon on the valves in a port injection engine of course. It gets all washed off regularly with petrol.

[@johnwoodrow8769]

Well I'm also a diesel mechanic. If you tow decent loads, a catch can is essential due to the significantly increased blowby with the engine working much harder than 'normal' operation. On my 300,000 kilometers Prado, normal driving a new Provent filter will stay looking relatively clean for thousands of kilometers, zero out the drain tube. You'd wonder why its even needed. Hook the van up and travel say 1000 kilometers and the filter will be dripping with oil, and several tablespoons oil out the drain tube.

[@ONELIFELIVEITOZ]

Great video. I use a coarse stainless scoura washer pads from hardware store. It breath’s better and keeps oil separate.

[@sm9300]

They definitely blow seal's in the higher rev range, best to run factory or to the atmosphere 😉

[@06hunter54]

Just on that topic, can newer diesels run it into atmosphere or they need to be plumbed for back pressure or something? Not mechanically minded just something I read somewhere saying modern diesels cant run it straight out into atmosphere.

[@gasnxt6805]

Full vent to atmosphere or suck it back in at the air filter and live with the crap in the intake

[@06hunter54]

@@gasnxt6805 so what happens to the inlet pipe in manifold just block it off?

[@sm9300]

@@06hunter54 Not sure on modern diesel's mate, but no matter the engine it'll benefit from not having oil rammed down it's throat, the only thing that i can think of would be that having it plumbed in there will be sensors reading that gas and adjusting accordingly for the emissions. No doubt if you disconnected it and it was a problem on a new diesels a fault code will thrown.

[@sm9300]

@@06hunter54 yep

[@Gazza021]

I'm very wary of using Ryco anything on my cars these days as they aren't always suited to engines with specific requirements. My EJ22 powered Subaru was my example. The factory oil filter for this engine has a release valve that's set to release at a specific oil pressure. When I was using Ryco filters, I found that I was getting failures of the oil seals around the camshafts and front of the crankshaft due to too much pressure blowing clean past them. After having all these replaced to stop the oil leaks, I switched to using the Genuine Filter from my dealer (which amusingly enough, is about $10 cheaper for the Japanese made genuine filter vs the Mexican now Chinese made copy) and haven't had an issue since. Seals last the 100000k service interval, no leaks. Something to consider, perhaps a higher quality unit might be worth considering, though that engine got along just fine without a catch can for so long. :)

[@devojet]

The crank case pressure and volume will be worse under load and boost. You could try connecting a pressure gauge to the crank case and see what pressure you get. I once cracked a rocker cover from end to end cause the catch can caused a restriction.

[@247geoffers]

Lot's of blown turbos from Provent 200 catch cans on Amaroks, we'll known on the forums and VW is actively declining warranty claims on them

[@Big_Red_Wade]

this is gonna also gain a lot of controversy also but i would never use a catch can that has a filter inside it, i used one that had a filtered breather on the top and was baffled, the idea is to vent the pressure and catch any oil thats pushed along with the air. what you are describing to me says that is an extremely bad design for a catch can and looks sealed so if the filter blocks pressure starts to build up. also any filter will ALWAYS cause backpressure. CATCH CANS DO NOT NEED FILTERS THEY NEED FILTERED BREATHERS AND BAFFLES

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

Let's go over this slowly.... you want a CC with no baffling and nowhere for the oil mist to slow down and condense out... logically without a filter medium of some sort....condensing and falling out, let alone collection.......is not going to happen. But you will have maximum vacuum produced...so there will be a slight vacuum on the CC. So the "vent" filter will actually be filtering the air entering the CC from outside????

[@Big_Red_Wade]

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq i said baffled, as in u want to use baffled not a filter

[@kevinoneill41]

PS all my in put is in real time the 06 of May 2024 ❤👍good luck and never stop asking questions and looking for improvements. But one thing for sure is the loest Crank case presure is better on seals and gaskets preventing oil from leaking all over your engine.

[@aohalloran2428]

The amount of oil there will have something to do with how long between checking also, was it the same duration for both tests?

[@timdunn2387]

Well done on an objective coverage of the issue, without hysterics.

[@alanforeman4447]

Just use your factory chassis rail catch can

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

1940's "road draft tube".....popular until the 1960's Have a look at photos of old American concrete freeways.... A huge oil streak right down the middle of each lane where the dripping oil just fell on the ground.....

[@jonathanwright5550]

Holden did so until the 70 maybe the 80s

[@4Fellowes]

An have money for beers to laugh at the idiots running them...

[@simonilett998]

@@jonathanwright5550 No they didn't. Maybe in the 50's or early 60's, but certainly not into the 70's, and definitely not into the 80's🤣🇦🇺

[@jonathanwright5550]

@@simonilett998 I've seen them on common doors there's hose straight off the tappet cover dropping the gases to the road

[@kayakwesty]

A Provent 200 catch can wouldn't have done this. It has a bypass valve. My set up it goes to catch can. The outlet goes to the frame rail. My inlet at the turbo I have a breather filter.

[@gideonkambu7743]

Very good content. Worth discussing this topic further. Can we have Dan's input on this. Thanks AussieArvos...👍😊

[@MiniLuv-1984]

Leave the guy alone ;) Now Dan has to spend time chasing this up when there is nothing more to discuss - you don't need a catch can or the manufacturers would have fitted it, but if you want a catch can, get one that introduces minimum restriction.

[@davidwarren4569]

Once the egr valve was introduced is when the problems started with build up with carbon in the intake. I wondered where the oil mist down my intake was coming from along with massive carbon build up in the intake. Oil + hot exhaust gas through the egr equals carbon build up. After installing the catch can it went away. The Toyota 1HD FTE motor was the first with the egr. Yours I think doesn’t have one. Lucky you. You have to change the filter like any filter.

[@nasilemak868]

Now that's why the Aliexpress bootleg Provent 200 uses mesh filters

[@MMM_MADness]

The time to blow up the bag, you say "only" a 3 seconds increase. Another way to say it would be a 33% increase. Makes it sound quite different!

[@tadeuszmichaelwlodarczyk3120]

Just putting my 2 cents worth! Toyota spent thousands developing this motor and some after market hero's think their experts 🙄

[@nosignal88]

EGR and DPF are causing issues simply due to diesel emission laws here in AUS. So before you ooen your comment internet mouth do your own research. I am a diesel mechanic btw

[@tadeuszmichaelwlodarczyk3120]

@@nosignal88 one word of advice MATEY keep things simple and their never will be a problem 🙄

[@nathanmanning7332]

@@tadeuszmichaelwlodarczyk3120 that is his point. You can't keep it simple because it's not simple anymore... i.e. modern emissions laws require EGR on modern diesels.

[@THEROADSMITH]

@@nosignal88 please point out the dpf on this land cruiser

[@Jayden.Dean25]

@@nosignal88 his car does not have a dpf or egr

[@RW4X4X3006]

The crank case is still venting through the breather filter. The catch can simply does just that - catches blow-by oil, contaminants and excess condensation, preventing it from fouling the intake and direct injection engines. Just be sure to empty it on a schedule. High mileage vehicles more often than newer.

[@BinJuice1630]

My opinion on catch cans has always been; some pretty clever engineers have put in a lot of research and development into designing and building engines. If a catch can was necessary it would have been in there from factory.

[@cyclemoto8744]

Not necessarily. Think of "sealed gearboxes" which the vehicle brands specify as not requiring oil changes. If I recall correctly, even ZF gearboxes are specified as sealed by some vehicle brands even though ZF state the opposite, reasoning for this conflict is that the car brands want their vehicles to appear more environmentally friendly and/or have lower running costs, whereas the OEM specifications relate to performance and durability. Car brands are only concerned with the durability of the vehicle for the duration of the warranty...

[@Madiba100]

Have a look at the issue with N14 engines in Mini Cooper Ss - crank case gasses introduced to the intake of a direct injection petrol engine - carbon builds up on the inlet valves, drops off and trashes the engine - as said by Cycle & Moto manufacturers only want the engine to last the warranty duration. Had a big 6 month fight with BMW and eventually they reoplaced the engine. A catch can would stop this happening.

[@joelmate4071]

I see what your saying but problems dont occur in the warranty period so why spend extra money on something that doesnt benefit them at all

[@espenforfen1334]

Hmmm......Talk to Holden owners who have had to replace/rebuild engines from a build up of thick sticky black tar all over the inside of the top of their engines, caused by over heating oil and a poorly designed breather valve. What works on paper doesn't always work in practice.....just saying

[@jimmyjones2426]

It’s a shame those engineers are only motivated my environmental considerations - not longevity of machines

[@Snickeran]

Fitted a catch can to my 2013 Navara because the internet said so, and the arguments for were pretty sound. Noticed the next time i opened the bonnet, i had an oil leak around the seal around the injector on the rocker cover that wasnt there before the catch can. Removed the catch can, cleaned the rocker cover with brake clean. 2 years later, no more oil leak.

[@HammerRocks]

It looks like more of a case of a badly designed catch can, than a general catch can issues on older TD engines.

[@jonathanwright5550]

They're heavy breathers from factory and they're getting old these days

[@anotherdedchannel]

You said I wonder what people would prefer, higher crank case pressure or oil in your air intake tract. The problem with that statement is you can have no crank case pressure and no oil in your intake air. Simply run a catch can and vent to the atmosphere, or even better run a heated air oil seperator and vent it to the atmosphere. Crankcase pressure directly fights your Piston on the way down and is always bad.

[@deanmcgregor2692]

You don't need a catch can on your 1HD-T, get rid of it.

[@ixJonesy]

I use a HPD catch can, doesn't have the filter like these and it works a treat, just has a couple of mesh screens to try and catch oil.

[@cats4targets]

If you keep your vehicle as per factory it will perform for many years. If you need to modify your vehicle then you own the wrong vehicle

[@buxybuilt1519]

It the ryco/provent catch cans that are the issue here. Other catch cans are different. They don’t have these problems. The ryco/provent cans have a filter that can be blocked up, a pressure compensator that can fail/get stuck, not work adequately and a relief valve that can do the same. It’s for this reason I do not run a ryco/provent can and use a different brand.

[@MitchVandermeer]

Better off removing egr instead of installing a catch can

[@davidgoliath5901]

My beloved 80 1HZ had a heart transplant at 350k (after market turbo) in 2011. Fitted a brand new from Toyota crated 1HDT which blew a waft of blue smoke (only) when cold. Just enough to annoy and search for reasons. Motor was professionally fitted - timed etc. Fitted a catch can, same issue, removed catch can. After 100,000km I finally got another diesel service to check pump timing. Was slightly out, no more smoke. Ten years of annoyance just because someone was a bit casual on setting the pump timing... :(

[@hodzy4x4]

The only cans causing dramas that I've witnessed/worked on were incorrect installed, faulty or wrong sized hoses. I use a Provent 200 on my GU td42t and not a single issues over the 180k, that I've owned it. Have you seen this Jebbreys Jibberish's video on the faulty Ryco cans that made his 200 series very sick? kzbin.info/www/bejne/amXGeol4qKd-j7M EDIT: I forgot to mention, that sometimes the motor has excessive blow-by causing that much pressure that no catch can is able to keep up, hence pressurising beyond seal limits and it has to go somewhere...