Is it actually going to come out? Mitsubishi Fuso 4P10

[@donbennett73]

Any galvanic corrosion/weld type situation is going to get worse over time, so my vote is to do it now while you're warm and dry. And I think your custom tool, though sturdy and brilliant, is pulling the injector backwards as much as upwards, negating half of your lifting percussion. As others have suggested, maybe a tool that goes around the support on both front and back, so your pulling force is straight up. I've always had great success with the heat/cold differential technique. You want the injector cold, and what it's attached to hot. Set your puller up, then gently heat everything up slowly and evenly with a heat gun, even the injector. Then when you're ready to pull, spray a can of air upside down on the injector. This will cool it quickly, while the rest is warm around. Cold metal shrinks, hot metal expands.

[@BruceandKrista]

Thank you for calling galvanic corrosion and not electrolysis!!!! (One of my pet peeves!). As you know, where the land meets the sea there you’ll find Fe2O3, and where the ocean meets the shore, you’ll find there’s Fe3O4. 🤪. I think I’ll try getting the engine up top operating temp - that should also help the copious amounts of PB blaster heat soak into whatever is inside there, and hopefully break it apart (the crud, not the injector!)

[@jaydenlewis7700]

I'd carry on trying to get it out, you're in this deep already! maybe you can overcome the force being on a slight angle to the injector tube by adding a second leg to your adaptor that comes up infront of the crossmember, then you could pull from directly above the injector tube.

[@BruceandKrista]

Yep, I think equal ad direct on force will help with the extraction. Hopefully doesn’t rip the injector in half!

[@christopherwalcott4514]

And it will start and runs perfectly

[@volksman3]

Oh man what a pain, there was a know issue with all model years as that injector get allot of the water running of the back of the cab to it causing the corrosion sadly. As a recall they added a rubber flap to divert the water over it. A bit after the event unfortunately… me…. I would leave it as the other were clean and save your self the drama of a snapped injector ;o)

[@BruceandKrista]

I thought of drilling a drainage hole through the web on the back of the engine just behind this injector to allow any water to drain…. Until I found there’s already one there!!! That said - I think I will for sure work on some way of improving the water shedding after going through all of this!!!

[@terrydou7938]

My 2 cents. Do the work to get it out now, while you are in a good workshop, under cover, and have time - rather than years down the track when you might be on the other side of the country, outside and stuck somewhere. I know it's not likely the main problem, but it's still a problem that I'd hate to have bite you in the ass later on down the track

[@BruceandKrista]

There is a lot of truth here. That said, I’d REALLY like to get the truck moving again so I can fix my other broken stuff, using my hoist before winter hits!!! (Can always pull the injectors again in the spring)

[@CurtisDrew1]

I'm with Terry and Tim on this. You've beat on this injector and need to know if it's OK before trecking across the Continents. Plus you need to know you can pull it later should it fail on you. Pain in the arse I understand, but you are in the best place for it to fail. I would look at making & using a two bolt system to stradle that brace, and use a screw tensioner and let it tug on it for a few days, using the brace as an anchor point. Like a 3 jaw bearing puller in reverse. Maybe put a some heat on the head with a heat shrink gun. That air puller is slick, but apparently it's not hitting it with enough tension, straight up for it to yeild. Put some tension on it with a screw extractor and walk away for a day or two and let it just sit . I'd almost bet you'll hear it pop loose from across the shop.

[@BruceandKrista]

I think another custom tool is going to be the answer on this unfortunately. Just need to be sure I don’t damage the cross brace or the top of the engine!

[@slatrybartfast]

I too, have been having this exact problem. I was going to buy the fancy air hammer but after seeing it fail, I was back to the drawing board. Made myself a puller and after 4 hrs, it's out!

[@BruceandKrista]

Did you remove the cross brace? How does your puller work? Good to hear!

[@timjackson6859]

Maby construction a puller that has two bolts one on each side of the cross member with a cross bar that connects the two bolts above the cross member leaving enough room for a pry bar or even better go above the cross member with a bar with a big nut and bolt just like a conventional puller using the cross member to push against. That way you can keep tension on the injector for days at a time tapping sideways and soaking it with patience. I understand you don't want to bend the cross member or rip apart your motor mounts! I have a feeling using your pneumatic puller is wedging it sideways when your using it? Constant pulling and gentle tapping might be the only way to break the corrosion? Maby some gentle heat and cooling? Dry ice or some spray liquid nitrogen? Good luck! I have a 98 fuso fg wile draining my engine coolant the block drain was so corroded it cracked the aluminum housing when removing!

[@BruceandKrista]

This is likely the solution. I think I need to put constant tension on it. Will probably pop right out 🤣

[@contributor7219]

Yes, sadly, number four is always a PITA. Many of these single cab Canters came with a plastic cover over the entire top of the engine, but it didn't really make much difference to be honest. I'm going to be the 'voice of dissent' here and suggest leaving it alone for now. As I've said previously, if you didn't notice any sign of the engine running roughly (i.e. on 'three') before it stopped then the injectors are unlikely to be any problem. Get everything else in the fuel system cleaned and be 100% sure you have the non-running issue fixed, then add that last injector to the 'to do' list when you give the truck a full 'going over' before starting travels. You can treat the tank using washing soda and electrolysis if you want to completely kill off any rust in the tank. That's an every door and window open in the workshop (or tank off and outside) process though, as the hydrogen that gasses off can really ruin your day if ignited. Once you do go down the path of removing the last injector I would strongly advise removing the cab support. Run the engine to full operating temp with the cab tilted and everything pretty much ready to come off to get the injector out, and the injector clamp bolt backed off half a turn or so. The heat, vibration, and compression pressure (remember this is a diesel) have a fighting chance of getting the injector to start moving and making it easier for the pneumatic tool to do its job. Any puller arrangement that goes around the cab support will convert the linear pull to torque, which isn't going to do the best job (apart from breaking stuff). Those pneumatic injector removal tools need a straight and direct shot at the injector to work effectively. Yes, removing the cab support sucks (I've done it twice on ours), but breaking the injector will suck way, way worse!

[@BruceandKrista]

I like the idea of this approach. Does a few things - gets it running again first, gets some heat soak into the engine, buys some time to get things sorted out…. I think you’ve hit the nail on the head!

[@christopherwalcott4514]

For me to get it started I have to spray lil carb cleaner in to air intake manifold

[@RichardCrabbe403]

Echoing what is said above... I can imagine how much worse this could be out in the bush somewhere. Also if it's so badly corroded that it won't come out now, how long before it fails. I was also thinking along what Tim was saying above. Can you design a flat bar that has the injector socket in the middle and 2 threaded holes on each side to put 2 screws down to push on the block. Then attach your vibration machine to that. As it vibrates you push up on the injector so you apply continuous force and vibration and continue to tighten. Can you apply heat? I dunno. Might just be easier to pull that support out in the long run.

[@BruceandKrista]

Hmm, combination pneumatic and pushing against the top of the engine… could work! One way or another, something different is needed!

[@tptwk]

I'm wondering if the offset tool you built for the removal shaft is changing the upward force to angled force and binding. If you are going to keep trying, I think you need have another offset on the other side of the cross frame to even out the force (just notice @timjacksons comment). Or, how difficult wold it be to remove the frame that is in the way? If the fourth injector will not keep the engine from a test run, I think your correct in moving on. Good luck!

[@BruceandKrista]

Interesting - I could build a T shaped lower section that attaches to the injector, then have a bolt coming up on each side of the cross brace, going to an upside down T, when then connects to the puller - that should even out any offsets.

[@ljprep6250]

I would leave it at this point, put it together, and see if it runs correctly. If it runs OK, you're golden. If not, you're golden showered. ;) At that point, I'd likely cut that center section of the crossmember out to get the tool centered on there, since there is an interference fit with the xmember already. Then get some fiberglass welding blankets for protection and weld it back together when done. The angles created by the offset shift about 90% of the pull into the angle. (I think John at Farmcraft showed me that, but see broken welds) Best of luck. What does Fuso charge to change injector #4? Does it include R&R Engine? Their fee is a clue. (cringe) If it still doesn't come out with the proper tool at the proper angle, have it done professionally. Ripping it in half could be more costly.

[@BruceandKrista]

Ripping it in half is my biggest fear! Maybe I’ll put it all back together let the engine run for a bit - then disconnect everything from #4 and start the engine and see if I can compression fire it out from the inside 🤣🤣

[@christopherwalcott4514]

Ooo wow I am been having this very same problem with my 4p10 canter truck ,it having difficulty starting

[@BruceandKrista]

I’d think your problem is slightly different - if it runs after it starts, it’s getting fuel. Mine isn’t getting fuel. If yours only has a mechanical lift pump, you may want to check for air leaks ahead of the pump.

[@christopherwalcott4514]

Good morning I will check that it may be possible that I am losing prime

[@christopherwalcott4514]

Just the starting issue

[@Gina-l6k]

You better watch matz mechanic video expert in engine troubleshoting