It’s BACK! 1/24 MOA - Z2 Axles on NW Chassis Works Pit Bull V2 - UPDATE!

It has sat on the shelf for too long. Major rework.
New dual 10A ESC on FlySky 6ch Radio - Channel mixing with G7p
New rear links
New front links
New 1.8" Hard Park Wheels
Spektrum 300 3s LiPo
Dashex Z2 axles - w/ N20 500 RPM motors
Carisma Oil Filled shocks - w/10W added

[@79SRB]

You make these 1/24 crawlers look and crawl great ! Wish I lived closer so I could pick your brain whenever we had time.

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

Thank you! I do wish I had some valuable resources on hand like a CNC and 3D printer. Vermont Scale Customs would be making 24 scale parts! I'm always available to shoot the breeze. You can find me over at Facebook as Mark Byland.

[@junelopez9520]

YES YES YES Thank you! Happy Thanksgiving to you and your mom. I lost mom two months ago, here alone eating while watching your video and my condolences,... Stay strong!!!!

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

Very sorry hear the news, June. Happy Thanksgiving to you as well. I've spent the afternoon completely redoing the electronics on this thing after burning up the front ESC. Even after an emergency electronics overhaul, it's still not quite right. Might need to order two better ESC than what I have. Take it easy out there and keep your folks in your thoughts.✌️

[@gibsonlife573]

That sucks to lose your mother I am so sorry

[@rcrockcrawler]

Can't wait to see it dig. It'll dive down and start turning. The rear links look great. Doing the mod you indicated, will give you a very good steering radius. Regarding limiting the shock travel, simply cut a few mm heat shrink for the shaft inside the shock body = full droop, limit sprung. Better CG, longer wheelbase, closer to the rock. Flex it to one-tire-height. (I've got right between one wheel and tire height.) *Channel mixing* (Mine is a Futaba 4PLS): Swapped front to rear (over-drive the front 20%, not under-driving the rear) more power. front esc on CH 4 (not CH2): 120% (Mix Rate) rear esc on CH2 (not CH4): 100% *End-point-settings* (a little trick): rear CH2: FWD-120%, BRK-120% front CH4: FWD-120%, BRK-80% So now I have 20% over-drive going either forward or reverse. (Saves stress on the rear, if reversing is unavoidable.) Hope, this makes sense. Don't know how your radio is setup. Yours might have more programming options. Weight distribution.. limit sprung mass.. for another day. 🍻

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

I burned up one of the generic red "20A" ESC by attempting to crawl up carpeted stairs. I had everything working well enough to test and was going to deal with quirks until I refined the electronics. I have mixing set up through FlySky G7p., rear dig, front and rear OD, and rear under drive all function well. But, like I mentioned, I was going a little heavy with it because it seemed like it was able to do so and suddenly, the front ESC shut down, I lost steering and the front motor control. So, after a couple of hours and rebuilding a new set of ESCs for it, I began to test it only to find that these newer ESCs don't like 3s and the servo was glitching hard. I tested it with 2s to see if it would calm down, It did but it lost ALL of it's horsepower to climb. So, I placed an order today for another 2 40A ESC. I still need to get a BEC from NSDRC sometime over the next two weeks when the new ESCs arrive. Basically, I had it running great, I was about to do video and I burned stuff up. And the geometry is🏆🔥🍾 it works well and I can't wait to run it again.

[@rcrockcrawler]

@@VermontScaleCustoms Could you pass on links to the esc & bec pls

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

BEC - nsdrcscaleparts.com/products/nsdrc-micro-bec ESC - a.co/d/8Vfg70i ESC I burned up - a.co/d/ge1u9a0 ESC currently installed "30A" (10A actual) but doesn't run 3s - a.co/d/2zOFV9Q

[@natevanbelois4563]

Thanks for the updates and making cool rigs. Cant wait to build a Z2

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

I just finished capturing video for the final update on this build. Stay tuned, it should be up in a few days. Right now, I'm going to back burner progress. Do not use Dashex axles. Cancel your order if you wasted money on them, return them if you got them already. I wish I could say I was kidding. They're trash.

[@SevenWelt]

Hello, Interesting nice update!👍 Greetings Seven🖖

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

Already had electrical issues. Back to the drawing board! Back again soon!

[@SevenWelt]

@@VermontScaleCustoms 👍

[@gibsonlife573]

Proud of you buddy you did a good job

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

Trying to make this thing work, for all it's worth. I've been at this thing for a year with various successes along the way.

[@gibsonlife573]

I run a mixture of diff fluid and shock oil in the injora mm oil shocks

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

I've run all kinds of stuff from 3-in-1 to gun oil.

[@rcsteve710_]

Sheesh thats looking dope 🥵

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

I wish it ran as good as it looks. A year long project and it still has electrical issues.

[@gibsonlife573]

I could have swore you yesterday when I watched a little bit of this that I can see that pipe bender from the overhead camera it's not showing me that on my phone did you do a overhead shot

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

I don't recall doing that, no. Maybe another video?

[@rcrockcrawler]

Regarding bending links, for many years I've been using the same tool you mention. Rounded rear lower links are indeed better at sliding over rocks. But I mainly use aluminium tubes to make my links. If I make these links rounded, they would *bend like a bow and flip the truck off the rocks*. So I *need to make them somewhat angled for rigs with strong motors*, like my Bully2 and the two RockStas. The DasHex does fine with rounded links. Off course, I could make them out of steel, but I'm forever experimenting and making changes, for which the alu tubes are best suited. Gmade R1 with custom links and steering setup: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o2GtdKeDg7CCi68si=7Gg1uBFhjmRaM38Y

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

When I became an electrician, one of my desires was to become a master pipe bender. I wanted to be able to be thrown on any job, with a set of mechanical benders (3/4. 1", 2", 555 Triple Nickel, 4" Table, etc) and be able to handle myself without 1) producing too much waste and 2) minimal reworks. In the last 10 years I've bent literal miles of pipe. It's my thing. I can't stand running wire. I'm not even a fan of hooking stuff up at either end. I just like to bend and install pipe. These links are made of stainless tubing with M2 all-thread through them. (I don't like cutting hollow tube and gluing in rod ends = weak) So I like to take my measurements, do a test bend on a scrap piece to ensure approximate fit, and then bend the entire stainless piece. Once I'm there, I figure out where my rod ends are going to be and then I reach for my "Imp" tubing cutter and do a few turns around on the stainless tubing. Then I take and move it back and forth once with a set of pliers and the excess snaps and slides off, revealing my threads for the rod ends. The have ZERO recoil. They are super stiff. And if I ever get into making new links for my Bully II or for my R1, I'll upside to solid steel rod stock. That was I won't have to be concerned with kinks or unwanted springback from torque.

[@rcrockcrawler]

@@VermontScaleCustoms I don't know much about gluing links. Have heard both good and bad. I simply use threaded rods with tubes.. plastic, alu, brass... You made me think about Bender from Futurama 😆

[@Pnw-nick]

Lemme see it run!

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

It's been plenty frustrating. I had it up and running last night - was pretty psyched with the performance. I figured I'd start pushing it a little more today. It was doing everything I thought it should until the front ESC burned up - which was also powering the steering servo. No BEC yet. So, since those were 10A and I had a pair of generic 30A sitting around, I spent a couple of hours getting those in. While the current seemed a little better for a while, they did not like being on 3s. They're 8v max. By the time I shut it down, the servo wouldn't do hardly anything. Switched to 2s and it's a dog. Barely moves and stalls out, even with dual 30A. So, I may order two Hobbywing 1625 and decase them and make room. I've always had good luck with those running 370 motors. So, a tiny N20 should be okay with 25A burst. Despite being so close to having it be good, I've also never been so close to giving up on this thing! Maybe just make it a shafty.

[@ktmfour1007]

Where in vt

[@VermontScaleCustoms]

Out in IL temporarily due to a death in the family. I had been living in Morrisville for close to 10 years before relocating half way across the country.