Commodore 128 Part 2: Building a Power Supply

[@d-anger-noodle]

I've found it useful to add a small amount of petroleum jelly to the inside of the grommet; the power cable slides in much more smoothly and you can always wipe the jelly off afterwards. Great job again!

[@JanBeta]

Oh, the petroleum idea is nice, going to try that the next time. Thank you!

[@johnm9263]

For DIY strain relief, I would knot the cable inside the power supply to prevent the leads from getting yanked out and then shorting as they get squeezed together through the hole

[@ronsherr1]

Congratulations! I'm jealous of your working C128 and new power supply! Very much looking forward to your upcoming adventures with this machine! Very nice video. Thank you!

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Ron! Glad you liked it. I'm really looking forward to trying the machine out. There's going to be some more refurbishments in the next video, too. :)

[@dennisp.2147]

That laugh of delight at 42:14... It's always nice when something that you've built works!

[@JanBeta]

Definitely! I am still surprised and relieved every time. :D

[@stephenbruce8320]

Nice Job. Happy to see your C128 come to life. Looking forward to see what you do with it in the future.

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Stephen! Got lucky with the C128. I kind of hoped it would have some issues to make a repair video but of course I'm also happy it just works. ;)

[@debillus]

Finally got around to watch this one. Exactly what i needed for my own 128 PSU project. Thanks Jan.

[@FireballXL55]

Nice Job Jan, one of the better replacement power supplies I have seen on KZbin.

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! It's obviously still a hobbyist DIY approach but I think it should work reasonably well for my purposes. :)

[@HeyBirt]

Great luck on finding a nice working C128! Looking forward to the return.

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Jeff! And thank you so much for providing the square DINs (also on behalf of the whole community, of course)! Hope some people find the way to your channel and your site. :)

[@discoHR]

Well done! It's a good idea to mark the PSU so in the future you know it's for C128 and don't connect it to Amiga by mistake. A friend of mine made a similar mistake and connected Amiga's PSU to C128 and roasted the C128. I had to repair 3-4 faults including burnt CPU (Z80), even the thick copper traces started to melt and developed burnt holes. BTW, don't use C128 without the heatsinks for too long, the graphics chip for 128 mode is notorious for overheating and failing. Never happened to me but I was warned about it.

[@IDPhotoMan]

Al Hartman - Amiga, not C64.

[@LeftoverBeefcake]

Yes, I also recommend a nice fat heatsink on the VIC-II... the chip gets so hot I thought it was faulty when I repaired my 128, so I bought a second VIC-II. It turned out that the original chip was fine, so at least I have a spare when it decides to burn itself up. :P

[@alhartman66]

Oops! You're right. It said Amiga.

[@AmigaWolf]

And that problem you don't have with a Commodore 128D? Because i just bought and received a Commodore 128D? And the Commodore 128D is in great working order.

[@JanBeta]

Oh, thank you! Yeah, I noticed the chips got VERY hot. I assumed they would be running cooler than in the old C64s as they are slightly more modern but they are glowing. I'm definitely going to apply some heat sinks.

[@wimwiddershins]

Fingers were crossed. It lives!!! You lucky bastard! Jan. Lots of C128 exploring to do now.

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Wim! It really was a lucky find (again)! Looking forward to refurbishing and exploring the machine very much. :)

[@alanaspinall9273]

Well done Jan, this video was very interesting and has given me some ideas with My retro computer collection.

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Alan! Glad you liked it and I'm giving you ideas. ;)

[@dharma-wheelies]

Hey Jan. I'm using a switching power supply too and the 1764 REU I bought doesn't seem to like it. I suspect the ripple is too high. So now I'm looking at making a power supply that rectifies 9VAC to 5VDC using a homemade full-wave bridge rectifier. Of course I'm watching many videos on the right way to build it :)

[@JanBeta]

Oh, yeah, it might be an issue with the noise/ripple on the switching supply. The Meanwell is pretty good in that respect, so maybe it would work better. Otherwise you could also try putting in a couple of additional filter capacitors to get rid of any noise. That said, building a rectifier circuit is not that hard (you could also use a premade full-wave rectifier instead of discrete diodes) and probably fun. :)

[@kelli217]

I am accustomed to flipping a switch upward to activate it. But I understand that there are parts of the world where this is not the common usage; one of the components I use at work was built in Austria, and apparently the builders of that component also prefer to have their switches in the same orientation as you, Jan. 😀

[@JanBeta]

Ah, interesting! I didn't know about local differences in switch orientation. Might be I'm used to the way I build it because I'm in Germany.

[@tonanornottonull7132]

That magic trick tho lol great job Jan!

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! :)

[@CheshireNoir]

Love it! I think the only thing I'd add would be an LED across the 5V rail so I know when it's on. (Just a personal preference of mine to know hen something's on, in case the PSU isn't physically next to the machine.)

[@FernandoelChachi]

Maybe he could find a switch that same size but with a led included.

[@JanBeta]

Yes, there definitely are switches with integrated light of the same size. Maybe I'll put one in sometime.

[@MindFlareRetro]

A very nice build JB. Thank goodness you discovered the square DINs that Jeff Birt tracked down -- I purchased some, myself. I had something similar in mind with an open 18VAC C.T. (9VAC+9VAC) transformer. Darn, I love that enclosure, but I cannot find anywhere here, and ordering from the US costs me well over $50. :( Excellent work, as usual, sir.

[@danielmantione]

A very good box that I use for my own C64 power supplies is the Superbat LE-BOX-0038. It is low cost and results in great looking power supplies. www.google.com/search?q=%22LE-BOX-0038%22

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks very much, Daniël! I have looked at hundreds of options on eBay and I do not remember this one at all. Ordering one now!

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Mark. The case seems to be available all over the world except for Canada. :(

[@MindFlareRetro]

I know, so frustrating. I did find Bopla enclosures on Digi-Key -- dozens of models except for the "Elegant" series ... argh! Anyway, I have ordered a couple of alternative options, so we'll see.

[@RacerX-]

Great Video! Nice that it is fully working, that must have been a relief. Keep up the good work.

[@JanBeta]

Thank you. Glad you liked it. I kind of hoped that the C128 would have some issues (to make another repair video) but obviously it's also great it still works. :)

[@ToddsNerdCave]

Great video! I've built a few Amiga power supplies and some for the Atari ST and Atari 8 bit machines, but never tried building a Commodore 8bit PSU. After watching a couple of your videos, I think I might give it a try. I really dig that snazzy case, too!

[@JanBeta]

Thank you sir! The only oddity with the Commodore 8-bits is that they need 9VAC I guess. :)

[@LMacNeill]

I'm surprised you did't include some sort of voltage-regulation on the 9VAC side... If the 230VAC input varies at all, the 9VAC output will vary in proportion to the variation on the input. Since mains power is often inconsistent (I'm thinking about summer thunderstorms, for example) I would think you'd want something to regulate the output on that transformer... However, since I am ignorant as to the internal circuitry of the C128, maybe it has a built-in regulator I'm unaware of? Either way -- good video. Thanks!

[@BillAnt]

I believe that the switching power circuit in the new power supply does the regulation already, and the C128 also has some circuitry to smooth it.

[@lucatrifan2797]

8:27 There already is a fuse in the computer on the 5v rail

[@AaronNewcomb]

Correct. Also, the Meanwell PS has a 3.15A fuse built-in and there should be one on the motherboard I think.

[@GameTechRefuge]

Very cool Jan. Very nice looking finish. I find all things AC mains voltage scary. I'm even considering having two benches/areas, one hot for testing on and the other cold for working on with all my tools on it.

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Dermot! I got shocked a couple of times by mains voltage, it's definitely no fun, but if you are careful and take precautions (like using an isolation transformer) it's not that dangerous.

[@cbmeeks]

Great video. Love the long format. You should put some cool C128 logo on the top. Assuming it doesn't get too hot.

[@JanBeta]

Thank you sir. It does get warm but it's far from hot so a logo is entirely possible. :)

[@AnimalFacts]

Could have had some good fun with us by adding smoke in post production. 😂. Congrats on the working 128.

[@JanBeta]

Haha, I should consider that for one of my next videos. :)

[@AnimalFacts]

Jan Beta Would definitely get comments 😂

[@PureAudioTones]

Thanks for the great video. I love your wall plug solution. I am very interested about the the epoxy you used and going to look for it.

[@JanBeta]

Thank you Umut! The wall plug solution isn't that good at all unfortunately. They don't stick very well to the case. I'm going to replace them with proper self-adhesive standoffs soon. The epoxy is 5 minute modeling epoxy. Got it from eBay (I think) a long time ago. Works very well for my purposes. :)

[@AaronNewcomb]

Nice tip about using those "wall anchors" to hold the PCB in place.

[@P5ychoFox]

Great job. I did the same thing for my Amiga 500 a while back using a Meanwell PSU.

[@JanBeta]

Thank you! I think these Meanwell PSUs are really good value for money. :)

[@doktor6495]

8.000 subscriber!!!!!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!!!

[@JanBeta]

Ha! Und ich bin schon wieder der letzte, der das gemerkt hat... Thank you! :D

[@cypherf0x]

Solder joints break easily if they're not formed properly. A clean surface and removal of oxidation is key. Anytime you reheat solder there should be flux. Oxidation is the enemy of soldering as it prevents proper bonding.

[@JanBeta]

That's definitely a good point. I usually at least add fresh solder with a flux core.

[@LudwigVonBremen]

...don't forget to try out the "fuse function" aswell ... xD -->I'm just kiddin' ;-) great video!

[@AbooSulaymaan]

Hi Jan. Thank-you for the excellent video. I intend to follow your guide and make my own. However, I would like to develop one with an output cable for both the 128 and C64. What changes would I have to make other than fitting a second output cable?

[@izools]

Hey Jan! Great work, I'm wondering... Tell us about your Pez dispenser?

[@khoroshen]

About adjusting the 5V rail - did you measure the voltage at the machine while it is running? You will get some voltage drop across the cable depending on how much current is flowing. And by the way, the power switch is the wrong way around! The commodore machines and disk drive switches up to the on position :D It's "up" to your personal preference of course, just wanted to mention it.

[@JanBeta]

Yeah, I realised that the power switch isn't "Commodore canon". Maybe I'll even flip it some time. For now I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. I measured the 5V on the user port so it should have the cable losses compensated.

[@peddersoldchap]

Just a question: where are you going to get the female square connector to make the C128 to C64 adaptor?

[@JanBeta]

Afaik, the female version is still in regular production. You can get them from some Amiga hardware resellers these days, iComp stocks them, for example: icomp.de/shop-icomp/en/shop/product/square-din-5-power-connector.html

[@peddersoldchap]

@@JanBeta The one at iComp is the PCB variant, which is not the best for making an adapter (still doable with a bit of creative thinking). Anyway, thank you for the info and keep those brilliant videos coming!

[@MiniWarzone]

Another great video. In fact you have inspired me to try and have a go at teaching myself some basic electronics. I have bought a book called "Electronics for Dummies" as a starting point. May I ask how you connect all of your retro computers to a modern screen? Is there a special adapter or something? Many thanks.

[@JanBeta]

Oh, glad to inspire you! Getting into electronics is so rewarding in my experience. :) I'm using a Ligawo composite/s-video to HDMI adapter. It does the job but isn't very good. Still looking for a better solution myself at the moment.

[@booleanBoy]

Would the AC switching power supply work well for a C64 variant of this?

[@JanBeta]

Absolutely, the voltage requirements for the C64 are the same, it just draws less current. You can use this PSU with a different connector on a C64 without any issues.

[@JB-si2uv]

Random IKEA bits for the win Jan!

[@juliusheide3643]

So you end up with 2 different grounds,to be united inside? Maybe is best to bridge them before.

[@JanBeta]

There's just one ground for the DC. I don't know what you mean?

[@deborahberi3249]

Since the Meanwell EPS-15-5 Provides temperature protection, over current protection, over voltage and short circuit protection wouldn't that mean that a Fuse might be unnecessary? If any of those trip the Unit then it will shut off until reset. I planned on building my PSU with a Fuse on the 5V line as well but am having second thoughts now. -Mark.

[@AaronNewcomb]

Correct. the Meanwell PS has a 3.15A fuse built-in and there should be one on the motherboard I think.

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

Here in the states we call the plastic wall inserts "wall anchors"

[@oleimann]

Nice work - I'll be creating my own VIC20/C64 PSU soon but using a 5V PSU meant for Raspberry Pi, since you can get one with different connectors, leaving sliding pins to work off. I would probably have turned the switch around (on: top in, off: click down) - makes more sense to me, but it's just preference :) Also I wonder if it's possible for a 9V transformer to be switched for 100v or 220v, i.e. with a slider switch, so it can be brought into the US with a plug converter.

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! I also realised the Commodore PSU switches are commonly build in the other way around so maybe I'm going to change that... Switching the primary of a transformer is not that trivial I think. The devices I have seen that can use both voltages had different connections for different windings on the transformer (the old 1541 uses a similar approach, you can wire the internal transformer for 110, 220V or 240V by changing some wires around). You could attach a slider switch and would be able to switch between voltages with a transformer like that.

[@WX4CB]

i'm wondering why you didnt run a 5 volt regulated supply from the 9 volt rail. less of a voltage swing to use so that you can use a more efficient supply. Also, I noticed no LED or lighted power switch

[@JanBeta]

I would have to use a much larger transformer to provide sufficient power so I went with this slightly more modular approach. I don't think that tapping into the 9VAC would make it any more efficient.

[@WX4CB]

yea but a simple full wave rectifier, 5 volt regulator and a couple of smoothing caps etc is so much easier (and smaller :D)

[@muxman3132]

What kind of wiring are you using in this power supply?

[@Jamesnov1970]

The fuse should be after the switch. If the switch did short all that would happen is that the power would remain on.

[@PaulBosMusic]

Shock hazard if the fuse is before the switch on the live wire. Changing the fuse while the cords is live can lead to a shock.

[@JanBeta]

All valid points. I read up on it and the common approach seems to be "fuse before switch" in professional electronics. Most circuits in PSUs I've seen do it that way, too.

[@TomStorey96]

I almost didn't believe it, but daaaaaamn, you're right. I would totally have expected the fuse to be after the switch...! Seems backwards to me???

[@Robertkopp84]

No electrician puts a melting fuse of this kind on the primary side because AC. It does not hurt, but it will not break at the rated current flow. That is bad practice from the days where we only had melting fuses as breakers wich we replaced with current sensing breaker systems, because the fuse very commonly melted after the person died and the house cought fire. But i assume you want overcurrent protection when switching the PSU on. For that application are polyfuses.

[@theshaggyfreak]

Where do you get these project boxes? I've been trying to find something similar for power supply builds and I haven't had much luck finding them.

[@JanBeta]

I got them from Reichelt Elektronik, similar ones should be available from other sellers, too.

[@theshaggyfreak]

I finally got a case that I think is sufficient and I started my build. instagram.com/p/BpFgReSAK_l/?taken-by=theshaggyfreak

[@douro20]

Mean Well is one of Taiwan's most respected makers of power supplies.

[@JanBeta]

Yes, they are really good quality from what I've heard and seen. Even the important caps on there are quality ones.

[@jaycee1980]

Id probably have done it with a 2x9V AC transformer, and used one of the secondaries with a switching 5V regulator.. but, I can design my own circuit boards :) The way you've done it still looks good for "off the shelf" parts. That case is quite nice. I noticed Conrad UK stocks them, which could be useful

[@danielmantione]

It is certainly possible to use a 2x9V transformer, but you will have one challenge to solve: You need significantly more current on the 5V line (rated 2.5 A, practically about 2A) than on the 9V line (rated 1A practically about 0.5A). That means you either have to overdimension the 9V AC, resulting in higher voltages, and more heat generation in the C128, or find a non-symmetric transformer with exactly the right specifications. The original C128 power supply uses a switching 5V regulator, but uses a higher voltage as input to the switching refulator, I measure something like 20V on the input. Likely both secondaries deliver the same amount of current.

[@jaycee1980]

Actually one secondary of adequate current for both supply lines would do the trick. A 50VA transformer would be just fine for this.

[@danielmantione]

Yes, that is certainly a possibility, but there is a point of attention here: 9VAC and 5VDC are no longer galvanically separated. It is possible to build power supplies where undesired currents will flow between 9V and 5V. To prevent this, you need to have a look at the mainboard schematics while constructing your power supply. If done correctly, you can build a great power supply this way.

[@jaycee1980]

Hm good point now you mention it, the C64 supply circuit relies on the internally rectified 9VAC being "stacked" on top of the 5V DC... so yes, I think the 9VAC would have to be "floating" compared to the 5V DC one. I dont really see why they did it that way TBH.. it wouldve been simpler to have a supply that output 5V and 12VDC regulated!!

[@danielmantione]

Agreed. The reason is the user port: It is backwards compatible back to the PET and it carries 9VAC. Therefore the C64 and C128 also had to deliver 9VAC. And the reason why the user port carries 9VAC is the RS232 design: The user port carries the RS232 lines at TTL levels, an external converter needs to convert these to +12V for logic 1 and -12V for logic 0 that RS232 uses. 9VAC was the easiest way to get +12V and -12V: Bridge rectifier and capacitor and you have approximately the right voltage.

[@deborahberi3249]

North American Enclosure model would be (Hammond): MB158055VL -Mark

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Mark! I'm going to add it to the description! :)

[@bwack]

Another sexy build there! Those connectors are they custom made or old original?

[@bwack]

Thanks you mentioned it in the video! :)

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! Yes. ;)

[@alhartman66]

Those white plastic things are called "Wall Anchors".

[@JanBeta]

Ah, thanks, I've heard different words for it now. Google translate came up with "wall plugs" as the first hit. Seems to differ locally, too. :)

[@Ametisti]

I've always said wall plugs myself.

[@transcanada9028]

Love the Hot Pink cable ties.

[@azariayehezkel9064]

What the 9v transformer parameters? How much mA?

[@JanBeta]

It's the same specs as in the C64 power supply, so 1000mA.

[@azariayehezkel9064]

Ok Thanks

[@fsphil]

Nice to see the square DIN plugs for sale again, but annoyingly the carriage cost for posting 2 of them is nearly double the price of the plugs :-(

[@JanBeta]

Yeah, unfortunately they are sold from over the pond. :/

[@jensschroder8214]

Prima Video! ich hätte dem ganzen noch zwei LEDs spendiert, eine für 5V DC eine für 9V AC. Mit dem selben Netzteil und einem anderen Stecker kannst Du auch VIC20 und C64 betreiben.

[@JanBeta]

Vielen Dank! Das mit den LEDs habe ich auch überlegt. Eventuell baue ich zumindest einen beleuchteten Schalter ein oder so. Das mit VIC20 und C64 weiß ich, ich plane irgendwann mal einen Adapter zu basteln, damit ich das Netzteil für alle benutzen kann. :)

[@manitobanmisanthrope2495]

That case looks like it would be a good match for the Atari XL series

[@JanBeta]

Yes, it looks kind of similar although the color is different.

[@vladeb1104]

From my point of view this was a good lesson how to approach and solve some "trivial" electric problems.

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! Yes, it's pretty trivial electrically. :)

[@herbmyers805]

Great to see you doing great videos! I like your magic Ha. I have all my parts and I have Meanwel with -12 +12 along with +5 to add drive supply Edit for my goof

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Herb! Adding drive support is an excellent idea. Maybe I'll do something similar, too. Good luck with your PSU build. :)

[@SeltsamerAttraktor]

Taugt der Proxxon was? Hatte den auch schon im Auge. Jedoch hab ich mir vor einer Weile (~3 Jahre) ein Bitsatz von denen gekauft und die haben teilweise schon Rost angesetzt, bei Zimmerbedingungen, kein Feuchtraum.

[@JanBeta]

Wie im Video gesagt, habe ich den noch nicht wirklich viel benutzt. Die Verarbeitung wirkt auf jeden Fall sehr gut. Ich habe allgemein mit den Proxxon-Werkzeugen sehr gute Erfahrungen gemacht. Preis/Leistung scheint zumindest zu stimmen.

[@SianaGearz]

Easy to burn out, wimpy motor If you try to cut steel with it. But for plastic and wood it's great because of good runout. I also broke the same Proxxon glue gun Jan has, chintzy shit.

[@SeltsamerAttraktor]

Yeah, thanks. 0/10 not going to buy. I'd need it for the occasional metal work, like cutting face plates and such. Any recommendations?

[@SianaGearz]

Nnnnno, not in particular, I have random store brand kit from 20 years ago, that still works, but that's unlikely to help you make your purchase decision.

[@SianaGearz]

Oh just as a word of note, rust on steel cutting tools is not necessarily an indicator of low quality. That just happens. But that cutoff wheel breaking in Jan's hand like that, what, whyyyyy? It's supposed to be made from high strength fabric is it not? I sure wouldn't want a power abrasive flying right off onto my eye, glasses or not, just... You know, keeping them nerves.

[@RetroRecipes]

Lovely work sire. Nicer looking than my hack version I think. You are POWERful indeed. #jealous

[@JanBeta]

Thank you Chris! Not much different from your version technically, though. :)

[@deamondeathstone1]

Why not use some motherboard stand-offs, instead of the plugs?

[@JanBeta]

I didn't have any in stock so I improvised. The plugs are going to be replaced with proper self-adhesive nylon standoffs as soon as they arrive here (got them on order from China).

[@TzOk]

You really should use 3-pole mains cable (with PE), when using switch-mode power supply. Also the switch should be placed before the fuse holder.

[@JanBeta]

Where would I connect the earth? The PSU PCB doesn't even have a connection for it. I read up about the fuse/switch problem and as I said the most reasonable solution was to put the fuse as the first thing in the circuit so it protects everything behind it. I don't think it makes a huge different but I found that point convincing.

[@TzOk]

Look at the EPS-15-5 datasheet ( www.promelec.ru/pdf/EPS-15.pdf ), it states "Grounding Required, M1 is safety ground". M1 is one of screw holes, which is metalized (lower left, below the mains connector). In case you don't have a ground (PE), negative voltage output will be at 1/2 mains voltage, which could be fatal if you connect the computer to some peripheral that is properly grounded. Current is very low, as this is only a capacitive coupling, but it can be dangerous. About the fuse location there are two "schools" - one says that for a safety reasons the mains switch should cut off the power from the fuse, other says that the fuse should be the first line protection, and thus it should be the very first thing in a circuit. BTW - you already have a 3.15A rated fuse on the EPS-15-5 PCB.

[@JanBeta]

Oh, thanks for the explanation, I will definitely add in a proper PE connection now. I had no idea (obviously).

[@slrn832472577]

I would have used a toggle switch in place of that rocker switch simply because its easier to install a toggle switch. But its your project.

[@JanBeta]

I went with the rocker switch because the Commodore PSUs use those. A toggle switch would obviously work just as well. ;)

[@r2d253]

Sorry to say that, but you did it wrong as this PSU uses Mean Well EPS-15-5 switching power supply which MUST be connected to the ground to be safe! Without proper grounding you may even fry your C128 if you touch it's circuit board while using this PSU.

[@JanBeta]

I know, added it in the video description shortly after the video went live. Thanks for pointing it out!

[@SianaGearz]

I was surprised that you decided to use wall anchors... I mean they're usually made from Nylon and cannot be permanently epoxied to. Wood is fine. Also install PCB standoffs before soldering the board, you prepare them and screw them into the board, epoxy them in place (if that's what you decided to do rather than screwing in some proper ones), and when they are nice and secure, you can take the board off and solder it. While you're soldering you can put on the second coat of Epoxy around the base to reinforce the self made standoffs.

[@JanBeta]

Yeah, it was a very improvised solution... I actually ordered some self-adhesive clip-on standoffs that didn't arrive in time. I'm going to add those in at a later point.

[@christianh.6598]

well done jan :) , gute Arbeit . und gutes Video.

[@JanBeta]

Thank you! Hat mir auch Spaß gemacht, das Video zu drehen. :)

[@Handz001]

Wall plug? I've always known them as Rawlplug. No idea where that came from. Loving the Video's by the way.. I've been watching all the playlists on your channel. Just don't tell my work! Bis bald!

[@krnlg]

Rawlplug is a brand name of these things. I've only ever known them as Rawlplugs too! www.rawlplug.co.uk/

[@molten_software]

You seemed pretty upset about the green/yellow wire being used instead of red, because green is usually ground, however yellow is positive VDC in most modern computer power supplies so you're still looking good!

[@JanBeta]

Haha, I didn't know that. Good point. So I'm going to get away with it I guess. ;)

[@pcuser80]

Maybe a little fan for the 5V supply?

[@danielmantione]

Normally it is not needed, these power supplies don't get that hot, their heatsinks are sufficient.

[@JanBeta]

It's not really getting warm. It comes across a bit too dramatic in the video I think. Nothing to worry about, especially with a vented case. There's no need for a fan really.

[@djblackarrow]

You have to protect the Secondary Winding of your Hahn Transformer with a Fuse 1A T, because this Transformer is not short circuit proof! How do you identify short- and non-short circuit proof transformers? The Transformer-symbol with the two rings and the open vertical lines at the bottom means "not short circuit proof". When the vertical lines at the ends are connected together (like a rectangle) the transformer is short circuit proof. The SMPS has it's own protection against overload and overvoltage at the output. It shut's down when the needed/pulled output power is 115...150%, or when the output voltage is at 5,6...6,75V. The current values printed on a switch apply only to a purely resistive load. With inductive and capacitive loads, the maximum permissible load current is much lower. The used print transformer is an inductive load. The switching power supply is a mixture of capacitive and inductive load. Switching power supplies also have a very high inrush current, which must never be underestimated! The EPS-15-5 switched-mode power supply has an inrush current of 45A. An open-frame switching power supply like this one must be installed in a housing that complies with the EMC guidelines (Metal case with Earth-connector). Otherwise, the operation of an open-frame switching power supply like this can cause massive high-frequency interference in the environment. If these interferences enter the public area and adversely affect certain devices and their functions (car key's, WLAN- and DECT-Devices, RF-devices, flight-control systems) , then you will eventually get a visit from the Federal Network Agency. To put it another way: If you use switching power supplies wrong (e.g. use without EMC-shielding), you build thereby a short wave jammer. The Federal Network Agency has the ability to locate such "sources of interference" almost up to a few meters with DF-Antennas (Direct Finding antenna). You can test it by using a Radio that can receive Short-Wave and/or Medium Wave. Hold the Radio near the Meanwell PSU and listen to the noise when you turn on the PSU. Then go away and hear if the noise is still there. Change the Radio's receiving frequency from the bottom to the top. When you still able to hear the Noise at different receive-frequencies, it's a bad EMC-sign. Please note, that your Hahn-Transformer is a print-transformer - so you have to use it on a PCB - it's not designed for direct soldering of wires. And "wall plugs" are in Germany "Steckdosen". The Word for "Dübel" you searching for is "dowel(s)". In Commodore 128 Mode you can type "GO 64" to switch to C64 Mode.

[@JanBeta]

Oh, didn't know about the symbols. Thanks for pointing that out. I guess in the case of a C64 PSU I'll get away without a fuse on the secondary as it's fused inside the C64.

[@lukasperuzovic1429]

Actual colors for wiring is competently arbitrary, the colors that are used as a "standard color coding" is only so that people can know what color wire does what with a glance. Real pros will always confirm what a color does and not rely on colors alone.

[@ScarredRealist]

Rubber feet - 12.7mm, that nice round metric size that is precisely equivalent to 1/2" :)

[@JanBeta]

Ah! That makes sense! :D

[@Solder-Flowz]

Everything seems to be hunky-dory? Dave Jones seems to be everywhere ;)

[@JanBeta]

I'm definitely watching a lot of his videos. Always something to learn from him. :)

[@Solder-Flowz]

Jan Beta yeah, I always feel like a total idiot when I'm listening to him, but with every video a tiny bit smarter ;)

[@EduArana]

Awesome! looks like a commercial PS!

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! I guess it only looks pro from the outside. ;)

[@josephnealescratchcards]

Amazing video as always

[@JanBeta]

Thank you Joseph!

[@MechaFenris]

Now *I* need some hot pink cable ties! :-)

[@JanBeta]

See what I mean? ;)

[@godmonkeyjr]

Forgetting the fuse is such an amateur mistake. Real pros forget the heat shrink tubing! It's so much less convenient to fix! Lol

[@rbk17c]

Hi Jan - Definitely a nice machine - Think the C128 is the ultimate 8-bit machine! - well unless you count the C128D :). Getting 80 char screen looks SO nice. :) Will you look into modding it? Like a replacement kernel? I have (build) some nice rom 1Mbit adapter, inspired by www.rift.dk/upgrading-and-consolidating-commodore-128-roms/ but instead of a switch, a micro-controller uses restore+CBM to switch. ( think you tested something similar C64? ) Interested? let me know.

[@JanBeta]

Hey Holger, they definitely are great machines! I would be interested in your adapter. I was planning on checking out some mod possibilities anyway. Would you email me at thejanbeta at gmail dot com?

[@esshahn]

Well done Jan

[@JanBeta]

Thank you!

[@KenjiUmino]

hahaha ... nice one - again. no DIY project is complete without hot glue :-D

[@JanBeta]

Lots of it! ;)

[@philrod1]

Jan Beta - I was disappointed when you got the epoxy out, but you made up for it in the end :D

[@Markchill2]

did not know you was a sound engineer lol

[@kenjunge2768]

Nice Work.

[@michaellowery1559]

Nice Job Jan

[@JanBeta]

Thanks Michael! :)

[@FullMetalFab]

Your yellow and green wire can't be any worse then chrysler's wiring diagrams. The colors never match on anything you need to look up.

[@staticfanatic]

7:02 that 'whoosh'

[@JanBeta]

Haha, yay! Strange noises appearing here all the time. ;)

[@c7261]

BURN! No... SHRINK! >u< lol. My condolences to your viciously stabbed floor at 10:58.

[@JanBeta]

Haha, yeah, the floor incident was unfortunate. I thought I'd just leave it in for giggles. ;)

[@LunarJim69]

They are called "rawl plugs" in English, not wall plugs. I'm like you, I much prefer to work with leaded solder. Thanks for the video, I might build one of these for my C64. :-)

[@MrPGT]

RawlPlug is one maker's trade name. The company name was originally something Rawlings. Wall plug is the generic term very widely used in English.

[@LunarJim69]

MrPGT9999 Never heard anyone call it a wall plug in my whole life.

[@MrPGT]

Maybe it is because I'm south of the border? Hit up Wikipedia or, better still, Screwfix Direct with a wall plug search term. I still tend to go with "Rawl" from habit (I'm old) but I do use "wall" quite a bit nowadays.

[@AverageJoe2020]

Yup, Screwfix is great and quite addictive, In France I used 'tampons' as wallplugs, yes, really.

[@LunarJim69]

MrPGT9999 Nope, nothing to do with you being in England as when I watch any English DIY TV programs even they always call them rawl plugs.

[@jonasrullo2590]

Thanks for the great video. This may not work for Europe but I found some Honeywell wall transformers once used for alarm systems as a supply voltage on ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/DUAL-VOLTAGE-WALL-TRANSFORMER-ALARM-ADEMCO-HONEYWELL-4-Contacts-12-volt-9-volt It has 9V AC and 12VDC via screw terminals. I use one of those Chinese sourced buck power supplies for the 5V on my C128. Works well. I think it's rated for 3A but I don't think it draws nearly that much. I don't have any peripherals connected which may help keep the current lower.

[@blackcountryme]

Ah Rawl plugs..

[@HuntersMoon78]

You're buying pink stuff now just like Big Clive

[@JanBeta]

Haha, I've been subconsciously influenced by Big Clive! It's a pink conspiracy, I guess! Seriously though, I'm definitely a huge fan of Clive's videos.

[@andrekoppe6403]

LEDs, du brauchst LEDs für die verschiedenen Spannungen...weil es leuchtet so schön

[@JanBeta]

Das ist ein absolut stichhaltiges Argument! :D

[@tommyovesen]

Excellent. Make me one :-)

[@JanBeta]

I'd actually love to make a professional replacement PSU and sell it but the legislation in Germany is VERY strict with electronics. I will never be allowed to make stuff like that unfortunately. :/

[@tommyovesen]

Sure, I know. I can make one my self I guess. Thanks :-)

[@JanBeta]

That’s the spirit! ;)

[@kaczan3]

Man, that's one ghetto power supply :).

[@JanBeta]

It sure is. Works very well though. ;)

[@DangerousPictures]

Hallo

[@JanBeta]

Hallo!

[@mahmoodalkhatibdubai]

[@ttg_jamie6494]

why is ur yt name Jan Beta when you clearly say YanBeetaaaaaa

[@badmeme486]

KZbin unsubbed me >={