JAPANESE SAW vs. WESTERN SAW...One Small Difference Separates Hand Saws...But Which Should You Buy?!

[@Erik_The_Viking]

Japanese saws also produce a smaller kerf, which can be useful as well. I've been using them for a while and they've been much easier for me to work with than western saws. It took getting used to cutting on the pull stroke.

[@BishjamIC]

Some back saws, western push saws with spines along the back, cut a nearly as fine kerf like dovetail saws. But generally they are a bit wider than pulls saws.

[@JV-pu8kx]

Cutting on the pull stroke does not require as thick a blade as cutting on the push stroke.

[@BishjamIC]

They don't require as thick of a plate, true. But I can compare my Veritas dovetail saw very finely set with my Suizan Dozuki and the difference in kerf width isn't drastically different.

[@nuneke0]

I'll never go back to push stroke saws. Feels unnatural to me and is tiring.

[@Kcustom216]

Japanese saws are awesome

[@brandonjones8575]

I used to think the same until I picked up vintage pre WW2 saws. You can also pick up new premium lie Nielsen or veritas for the same quality. If they are properly sharpened and set, they are great tools. Big box store hardened saws are garbage compared to these.

[@kaasmeester5903]

As a kid I did some projects (soapbox racers and the like) with my dad's tools, and I always wondered about the awkward push stroke on his saws. Unnatural, that's exactly the right word. But at the time I was sure I must be using the tool wrong. These days I have a couple of Japanese saws... when I first started using them I was amazed: why are we not making saws like this?

[@propertystuff7221]

Was gifted a cheap Japanese saw, and I love it. I really don't have much use for my western saw anymore, even for rough cuts like removing tree limbs. The thinner kerf makes my Japanese saw cut like a hot knife through butter while it takes roughly twice as much effort to make the same cut with my western saw. Part of that may be my lack of strength and skill.

[@bhartissimo]

Good video. But one thing to note is that not all Japanese saws have teeth on both sides. A Ryoba (like the one you showed) has teeth on both sides, one for ripping and the other for cross cutting, but a Dozuki only has teeth on one side. I use my Dozuki for dovetails and other fine cuts (it has a thin kerf), while the Ryoba is more general purpose. I have a Kataba as well, which has teeth on one side, and is more for deeper cuts. And my Japanese flush cut saw has teeth on both sides, one side for hard wood and the other for softer woods.

[@a9ball1]

For those beginners who have trouble remembering which way and the teeth numbers. Look at the number of letters in the words, Rip = few letters= few teeth Crosscut= more letters, more teeth Hope this helps.

[@UserNameAnonymous]

I have rip saws with more teeth than my crosscut saws. It's the geometry of the teeth, not the number.

[@a9ball1]

@@UserNameAnonymous I was speaking about table saw blades. And there are exceptions to almost everything.

[@UserNameAnonymous]

@@a9ball1 - ah. I was talking about hand saws. Cheers.

[@garethbaus5471]

The number of teeth isn't actually inherent to either rip or crosscut saws. It is the tooth geometry that makes them different. Rip saws have square teeth that all have bevels that point in line with the cut, while crosscut saws have teeth that cut at angles that are slightly off from being in line with the cut to sever the end grain.

[@a9ball1]

@@garethbaus5471 not saws but table saw blades.

[@billyblackie9417]

I find my western saws do a great job in most cases but I bought a Japanese saw because when I saw its use in close cutting like when tips of dowels need to be cut off without damaging the face of the wood it's great for these uses. I would never replace one style saw with the other but I personally believe both types of saws are a necessity in woodworking just as much as a coping saw and hand saw have their ideal uses good video

[@ronroberts110]

Japan didn't have much iron, so any iron that they had was needed for swords, arrowheads, spear-heads, and tools. Iron could not be wasted on nails. As a result, Japan developed an entire universe of joinery methods that did not use nails. There are many youtubes displaying the types of Japanese joints and the techniques needed to achieve them. Like you, I have both types of saws, and after having a Japanese saw available, I can't imagine not having one.

[@leotilson942]

I was going to say the same thing! Apparently the quality of steel that the Japanese had was poor, and in small quantities. The technique of folding the metal so many times when making a katana was originally to try and overcome these limitations.

[@mickdowns4153]

Western saws work in compression, so they have to have thicker steel so they'll not buckle so easily when they're pushed. Japanese saws work in tension so the steel does not have to be so thick because there's no chance of buckling it when it's cutting the wood on the pull stroke, though it can happen on the forward stroke if you don't keep to the line of the cut. Thinner steel means a narrower kerf so you're removing less material with the cut, which makes it quicker to get through the wood. I've been using Japanese saws since the 1970s and I'd never go back to Western saws. They's also smaller than Western saws so easier to carry around and store. The only drawback is they need some extra skill to sharpen compared to the Western saw.

[@brianh8801]

I have both but prefer the action of the Japanese saw when it comes to accuracy and how clean the final cut is. Also, the Japanese blade doesn’t bind near as much. It’s far easier to pull a cart through the sand than push it.

[@wootenbasset8631]

Nah, the saws are the same, they just have the handles on opposite ends.

[@SadfaicMusic]

So wait, western and eastern hemisphere saws were designed to work in opposite directions 🥴

[@mikel5582]

It's due to the Coriolis Effect. The same reason their toilets swirl in the opposite direction when flushing. 😜

[@caseypeterson3955]

Wait till you see a southern hemisphere saw

[@marvinbleiberg4338]

Not all Japanese saws have teeth on both sides. Some have a spine on the back side for increased stiffness, and are purposed for either crosscutting or rip.

[@csehszlovakze]

for example, I have a Silky Bigboy, which is pretty thick (and long) and was designed to remove branches and other larger tasks like that. Ukrainian bushcraft channels gave me the idea to buy one, and I don't regret it a bit.

[@johanneswerner1140]

Yes. And not all western style saws have a triangular plate - backsaws have a rectangular plate. (some, most I know at least) Gent's saws even have a long thin handle, not a D-shaped one.

[@CatNolara]

One thing I also noticed: the pulling action of japanese saws pulls the blade straight, while the pushing action on western saws tries to bend the blade, especially if you get stuck on something. Because of this the blade of the japanese saw can also be thinner without generating too many issues.

[@thelostone6981]

After seeing many videos on KZbin where they used Japanese style saws, I decided to invest in an expensive $10 Harbor Freight Japanese saw. 😂 I love that thing and haven’t used my western saw in years. The Harbor Freight saw might not be a great saw for a professional, and seeing how I only use a saw a few times every other month, the $10 has been a great investment! 😂

[@austinporterfield1363]

The biggest plus to these saws is the muscles used to operate them. A Japanese saw engagement uses one half of your back. It’s a large and very strong muscle group. Putting work across that large group makes it a must for a camp saw.

[@whatshappening177]

The Wester saws are a very touchy saw to get started but with a little practice they can fly through a large log. Great for quiet camping when cutting fire wood. There is a technique for every tool.

[@richardpawlowski4540]

The western saw is suited for the way western carpenters used to work mainly by placing timbers on saw horses and using their body weight to keep the plank steady by kneeling with one knee on the plank so a forward cutting saw would cut with the weight applied thus the plank would be held steadier. A pull saw in that instance would mean you would be easing your body weight on the pull up resulting in unwanted vibrations. Not all western saws are used forward cutting, coping and fret saws are generally used backward being frame backed saws forward cutting would ease the frame tension. Jewellers piercing saws are also used backwards the item of jewellery being cut is held in what is referred to as a “jewellers vice” a wedge piece of wood with a Vee cut into it. The work is held across the Vee and the saw is used vertically cutting on the downward stroke thus pressing the work down on the vice making it easier to hold steady.

[@michaelfairchild]

For small DIY a good idea is also to get the handle for reciprocating saw blades. Got myself Bosch s922 and honestly for cutting smaller pieces of metal, wood or plastic its amazing for its size.

[@HAL-dm1eh]

Having viewed some interesting videos on actual Japanese furniture makers, I knew of the Japanese saw, but had no idea it was a thing in America. Very interesting.

[@handymanhoney-do6881]

I got the cheap HF Japanese saw when I needed to make one particular cut. I’ve found it useful several times. Isn’t really worth it for me to invest in a nice one but I like having that blade in the shop.

[@csehszlovakze]

>talks about western saws >zooms right onto Hungary senpai noticed us? :)

[@fishizer]

Nice info as always. The audio is always subpar on your channel I'm sorry to say, especially for how popular your channel is. Maybe hire an audio consultant for an hour to get a better audio set up?

[@Kevan808]

Wow I had no idea on the cutting dynamics of either one! Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍🏼

[@iandennis7836]

I've noticed that Japanese saws have little or usually no offset, so the cut is the same thickness as the blade......

[@David.M.]

Thanks Ethan. I got my first Japanese saw a couple of years ago and I really like it. I just signed up for the newsletter and look forward to hearing more about upcoming classes that you are working on. Cheers

[@MohsinExperiments]

You'll get better finish at the top side of the workpiece with a western saw and the bottom side with a Japanese saw.

[@b5maddog]

Been seeing those Japanese saws and wondered how they were. Thank you for this informative video describing the uses of it. Thank you also for the link. There is a 40% off coupon so I got it for a little over $14. Can’t wait to try it out. Thanks again

[@BishjamIC]

I've used both, the ergonomics of pull saws aren't my cup of tea. I enjoy the ergonomics of a quality western style. Cheap western saws feel clunk and awkward but well made ones fit the hand very well.

[@forger9443]

Nice explanation. I've always wanted to know. I've always marveled at the control they seem to have when doing all those various joints and the ease at which they seem to do them.

[@budgetaudiophilelife-long5461]

🙋‍♂️THANKS ETHAN,🤗 I HONESTLY HAVE NOT USED A JAPANESE SAW …BEFORE I RETIRED BUT I WOULD GET ONE NOW 👍💚💚💚

[@mr_b605]

I find that the Japanese saw produces a better, and higher precision cut because there is more control

[@tchevrier]

Japanese saws are thinner as well. Because they cut on the pull stroke they don't need to be as thick.

[@txmarine4hire]

Excellent video! Very informative.

[@garywilliams1759]

As ever, a really good, informative video. Thank you 👍

[@merlysfarm]

Good job! Fantastic video.

[@KarstenWade]

Appreciate the clear explanations, thanks. I noticed something you didn't mention, the triangle on each saw tapers toward the direction of the cut. Another way to think of this is the comment about how the saws are the same, but the handles are on the opposite side. 😁 I'm curious what you think about this? I wonder if the angle in relation to the handle provides additional power in the stroke type, so the cut moves from the narrow side to the wide side of the blade.

[@jeliarra]

Thank you Ethan! Learned something new.

[@kle2217]

Also, Japanese saws will have a thinner Kerf, taking away less wood.

[@davidkantor7978]

Also, therefore, takes less energy to make the cut.

[@parochial2356]

What exactly is it they never tell us? I am not a carpenter or a wood worker. Nothing in here I didn't already know. If it is that the Japanese saws cut on the backstroke, I learned this in my teens. I am 63 now.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

You didn’t know I had a newsletter coming out 😏

[@3frogltd987]

Good comparison, Japanese saws definitely have advantages and benefits especially when fine precision cuts are needed. I agree with Nathan in that for low volume fast cutoff work, a high quality sharp western saw is my preference. I can make 2-3 cuts in less time than it takes to find my power saw and and extension cord. Use of Western saws takes practice to develop the feel and rhythm needed for making efficient straight cuts. It's worth the effort, once learned you have a life long skill.

[@patrickpfundstein1122]

Nice summary, and I love both styles, especially as Erik The Viking notes when you want a finer kerf. Great to see you back on KZbin!

[@SandiRose2008]

I've been thinking about getting a Japanese saw. Now that the purpose and differences have been explained, I'm definitely getting one! Also, subscribed to the newsletter! Thank you!

[@peterjf7723]

You should get a Japanese saw, they are great to use.

[@billhaggerty4651]

Very well explained . Nice Job.

[@mariaaparecidacarvalho6530]

Uau! Now I'm able to buy a japanese saw. I was wondering where get this usefull information. Thank you.💚💛🇧🇷

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

👍😁

[@rogervondach1238]

I bought my first Japanese Pull-Saw probably about 30 plus years ago. It was at a tool show and those saws have been selling like crazy. I really like it for more than one reason. They cut very smooth, in general you don't even have to sand the edges. I also found out that it is easier to pull straight than to push straight.

[@rickkrockstar]

Me using a tree saw for basically everything.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

😆

[@leroysheppard6305]

RickK, just go buy the cheapest backsaw you can find and use it for cutting a curve like you might use a sabre saw for. You will wonder how you ever got along without one.

[@sumiaota3335]

The other big difference is that Japanese saws are meant to be worked low to the ground, ie the woodworker usually sitting on the floor. Which is why it often to me, looks awkward watching western woodworkers standing up using Japanese based tools on KZbin.

[@Charliendt]

I really love woodworking with hand tools and something that is definitely different between Japanese and Western saws it that Japanese saws have a teeth profile that it´s almost impossible to resharpen while some Western saws are be easily resharpen with a triangular file, if the teeth are not too small (less than 15 tpi) and the teeth are not hardened, which is sadly uncommon in the saws you find in hardware stores. You really have to look for saws that can be resharpen if that's what you are looking for.

[@DonaldAJr]

Thank you for making this video. I knew all of that about the American D Shaped Handled Saw but I didn't know anything about the Japanese Saw. I have always hated the push on the D Style Saw because I never get a good clean start. Call it Impatience or A.D.D. or Something Else.

[@aadittoshen]

Thanks for the breakdown! Succinct, as usual... One quick question (though I probably *know* the answer - still, want your perspective on it...) ~ If your workshop already has, say, at least a circular saw and a jigsaw... why would it even *require* a handsaw (Western or Japanese, irrespective)? And a corollary query... a hackaw *also* cuts on the thrust, right? So, is that "kind of" equivalent to a Japanese saw?

[@WowRixter]

Great video. I have both types but find myself gravitating to the Japanese saw more often. I don't know if it's my imagination, but the teeth on the Japanese saw seem sharper and the steel higher quality. It'd be great if you did a video on how to shop for Western saw. The European version I have seems to last much longer than the brands sold at the Big Box stores.

[@lowkeyconvert8971]

it's not your imagination because japanese are masters at making knives and samurai swords. their knives are highly sought after in the chef world as well. it only makes sense that they're going to be very good at making saws as well and using high quality steel.

[@jjmcrosbie]

Yes. Very good. Except that the "European" saw you showed has Stanley "jet cut" teeth designed to CUT IN BOTH DIRECTIONS! If you're going to "teach" us all, at least try and get it right. Incidentally, I like my Stanley Jet Cut saw.

[@gizmo7877]

As always great info especially for us newbies!

[@charlespoon1081]

I am a hongkonger which is a Japanese fan. I need to say the saw you are using. Ruitool is a Chinese company. They make this japanese saw. But don't get it wrong. I also buy tools from China or Japan. Ruitool also have other good product. At north amerian. The price of this saw is close to the other famous brand like Suizan, Okafa, Gyokucho. (I have all these brand). But if I buy it from China directly. It cheaper than those real made in Japan saw around 50%. I know what you talking about the saw. But I wish you using a real japanese brand's saw. And the saw is made in Japan.

[@HotelPapa100]

Is ANYBODY who knows both types of saws unaware of this difference?

[@Bob_Adkins]

I can't explain it, but *without marking,* I can cut a 2x4 almost perfectly square with a Ryoba saw, but never in all my years could I do that with a Western saw. I think light powerful, thin kerf, handy, cordless saws combined with Japanese saws spell the end of Western saws. May they rust in peace! I came here spoiling for an argument on the finer points of saws but got a basic primer for the 100th time. Good job, but geared for novices. 😁

[@Kikilang60]

A wood work can be so many types that you can't say they all should do this, or that. I know this guy who just make picture frames, and he owns a nice house, and a beach house on the Gulf coast. Just Picture frames. I seen these two different people making windows. One guy sold fancy windows that were expensive, and worked by himself. Another made regular double pane windows, and he had crew. Give him contract, and he pumped the out, at or below the price of store windows. He claims they are bettter, but I'm no expert. He makes a living. I think you have to ask yourself, "What do I want to do?" and "What resources do I have."

[@flashcraft8287]

You're killing me, you know that right? How do I sign up for the newsletter and NO, the link to the blog shows me nothing about signing up for the newsletter. You're evil.

[@PeteOfDarkness]

It's actually due to overall shape of blade. Both are trapezoid. You want to start cutting with narrower part of blade and push/pull wider part "through" material at slight angle for extra downward force. Teeth orientation is not reason, but result of intended cutting direction. This is why straight saws (like hacksaws) usually have bi-directional teeth - they have no inherit angle (you move them parallel to blade) and no extra forces pushing teeth down. Japanese saws are literally reversed Western saws. It's up to debate/preference if You want push or pull blade, both motions have their advantages. You can use more force when pushing big teeth Western saws (you probably couldn't pull big teeth that easily), but you have more control while pulling smaller teeth Japanese saws.

[@DerClaudius]

Nobody tells you this... just literally every video about japanese saws 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@paulkramer4176]

I've got a dozen western saws, (at least and maybe a dozen Japanese saws. If I want to cut a two by four, I'd reach for the western saws, but I was not raised with japanese saws. I've been using saws for 60+ years, and experience gives me good control with a western saw. I'd say in my experience, few people really know how to cut straight with handsaws anymore. I'm more of a cabinetmaker than a construction worker. I admit I use chop saws and table saws more than handsaws. But for small work, cutting notches, etc....I'll reach for the Japanese saws every time. Much finer detail, more accurate. I can cut THRU a line, one one side of a line etc. Sure a western backsaw, a fine one, can do that, but not as easily, not as quickly. Japanese saws are frankly easier to gain skill using than western saws.

[@jjkay100]

I think you may be missing something. Dozuki and Kataba saws don’t have dual cutting edges. That’s the Ryoba. And you really shouldn’t push a Japanese saw. It cuts when the blade is in tension. A cut can be started by a gentle pull. If you want to rough cut timber, then a Western saw is great. If you desire a fine cut with minimum kerf, then go for a Japanese saw. I like your videos but this one needs some revision.

[@elisa7joy9]

I'm doing an insane amount of learning trying to pick out a hand saw for 2x4s but the design of the Japanese saw makes sense... I have a little corded jig saw I thought I would use for my project, and read that a reverse blade would give me a cleaner cut. So I would assume the same is true for a hand saw. I am a small person and don't have a lot of strength for traditional sawing, just wasn't built like that... I'm thinking that will be less of an issue with the Japanese saw... Hoping that's the case!

[@natloz760305]

I didn't know Raikonnen doing this after retirement. 😅 By the way great explanation. I always use the Japanese one for delicate cutting.

[@GNU_Linux_for_good]

I'm wasting my time here.. I thought I'd learn something new, but *everybody* knows the main difference between Western/Japanese saws.

[@Bob-of-Zoid]

No one should have to tell you the difference anymore. I was using Japanese saws since the early 90's, and others did before me who I turned me onto them. It's 2024, and most doing fine woodwork use them now.

[@HondoTrailside]

- It isn't western vs Japanese. Chinese saws also cut on the push stroke, and probably Indian, etc.. - Japanese saws cut faster, when they do, because they remove less material, which is made possible by the blade being under tension, and therefore it can be thinner. Less is more. - "Why" is not the direction of the teeth, that is how. Why is reasons as above, and another that is occasionally given, at least for smaller craft is the Japanese preference for working from a seated position, where pulling to yourself is more powerful, like hugging. But they also do plenty of standing work with the same saws. - Disadvantages: cost, more difficult to DIY, bluring of the line with sawdust tear out, sometimes inhaling sawdust, fragile. Also, almost everyone uses them wrong. Alternatives are bowsaws that can be used with very fine blades, though usually not available, are more rugged, cheaper, leave a clean cut line, and so forth. However, a little awkward. A bowsaw blade is tensioned so there is no loss of tension whether it is pushed or pulled. In the end, a good craftsman does not blame his reasonably good tools, whatever they are. Most people know a lot more about tools, or so they hope, than they know how to use them. Golfing great Hogan said "the secret is in the dirt", meaning at the practice T. In woodworking the secret is in the wood, from practice.

[@JeremyB8419]

Pushing an object increases its friction. Pulling an object reduces its friction. Due to such, western saws cut more aggressively with the same tpi per stroke than Japanese saws. Because the west is more about quantity over quantity, western saws excel in quickly cutting timber and lumber. Because Japan relied/relies heavily on precise timber framing joints, Japanese saws excel in finesse necessary for fine joinery.

[@georgegonzalez-rivas3787]

You left out blade thickness. The western saw "has" to be thicker or friction might cause it to buckle. The Japanese blade is always in tension... the saw can't buckle and it can be thinner. Also, you're "supposed" to use a two-hand grip with the Japanese saw. This helps you make a straight cut as you are applylyin balancing lateral forces.

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

Japanese style saw is much better because when u pull the saw - its tensioned = will stay as straight as u hold it , wont bend unless u do something really wrong like pushing hard forward (u only pull it hard , never push with much force = faster and easier cut) PS Japanese saws can be in multiple forms , and most of them have tooths on one side only to be used for precise work yet still faster than any western saw :)

[@steveelves3499]

The biggest drawback to the western-style saw is the fact that it has a flexible blade. That means that it is almost impossible to cut a straight line, because the driving force from your shoulder through your elbow, wrist and palm is never exactly down the center of the blade on a strong push stroke. It's a bit like pushing on a rope - there's no component of the applied force that keeps the blade in a straight line. That's why the cut quality is never quite as good. A Japanese saw cuts on the pull stroke. Back to the example of a rope again, when you pull on it it automatically snaps into a straight line. If you want to do fine cutting with a western saw (such as cutting dovetails) you have to use a backsaw, which has a stiffening steel brace along the top. The downside of that is that you can't cut all the way through boards that are thicker than the depth of your saw blade from the teeth to the back brace. Western saws are typically longer, so you can get a really good long stroke on thick material, and they do a good job for fast (but rough) crosscuts and rips. I have both types in my shop, and I will say that I probably reach for the Japanese saws 9 times out of 10. They just have a nicer and more precise feel to me.

[@simonac688.]

Near the 1 millon subcribers 👍 great content has always 👍 thank you ...+++

[@fxm5715]

The dual cutting edges of ryoba saws are an attribute of only one of at least half a dozen different kinds of Asian pull saws. Most Japanese saws have a single cutting edge, some with a reinforced spine like a European backsaw, others with no back, for flexibility and depth of cut.

[@TruckingToPlease]

7 years stationed in Japan, I've used both and a must for any home shop

[@roadkillraker]

The way you demonstrated the circular saw blade is confusing. They don't cut from the top down through, they cut on the upward stroke from the bottom, teeth moving back to front.

[@friendlypiranha774]

3:50 to 3:55 - Sorry to correct you, but you're using a Japanese saw incorrectly there. Stand behind the piece you are cutting, use only one hand so that your forearm and saw blade form a straight line when your arm is extended (very accurate cuts this way) and preferably have the work piece set slightly higher than the saw blade so that you actually pull downwards when sawing. Don't use two hands, your cut will not be accurate.

[@schm4704]

Regarding the thumbnail: literally everybody ever using or demonstrating or talking about a Japanese saw tells you this.

[@aeris171]

Main difference. With a thinner blade you produce a thinner cut, making the cut easier, removing less material, but with a thinner blade you cannot cut by pushing, it would bend easily, you need to cut by pulling, so the teeth of the Japanese saw are the opposite of western.

[@sonofacheron]

Japanese saws definitely emphasize control and precision. And are less tiring. As HC pointed out it’s much easier to start a cut with them. Two cons: they are slower at ripping and they are quite delicate; it’s easy to bend the blade if one is careless.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

This is all true. The thinner kerf makes them much more flexible. You can feel the wobble if your stroke isn’t well aligned, and you can really bend one with a hard push 👍

[@MandyFlame]

Because they cut on the pull you should not be pushing hard, lift gently and wait to put power into the pull. Because the blade is doing the work on the pull it can’t bend. Imagine a piece of string - you can’t push it in a straight line but as you pull it, it will automatically straighten.

[@malerra]

I loathe and have always loathed western style saws. The forward stroke cutting sucks. I use japanese saws whenever I can now because they are not only easier to cut with, they produce better results, and since they are typically more flexible, I can make some cuts that are impossible with western saws.

[@samday6621]

The Japanese saw design is smart, as the blade will not bow on a pull stroke. This is another example of Japanese design attention to detail, or considered design. Much like how in Japanese calligraphy the artist takes time to consider the mark before laying it down.

[@robertp1006]

Japanese saw has smaller kerf, which means less force during the same cut depth. Blade stays straighter because it is in tension. Edges are smoother, so less sanding. I haven't used my western saw in 20 years. It looks like a relic.

[@chefspenser1480]

I did ont know this Ethan...well explained video. thank you - Cheers!

[@RJFerret]

Forgot the biggest difference, you can bow a Western saw for beautiful music! Can't do the same when teeth on both blade edges sadly.

[@kbenk108]

when you put links to tools/equipment on your youtube channel or website, could you also include the Canadian amazon links?

[@IEATUO]

the japanese one would probably work great for hacking at someone.. I was taught that a western saw cuts on the backstroke but idk and idc.. however I must care because looking at saws online right now it appears as if they cut on both now? idk just what I am reading about this stanley handsaw

[@ngbc5342]

The most important difference is the Japanese or 'pull' saw blade is much thinner steel, and for that reason has to be pulled to stop it buckling, this thinner kerf is why it make such fine cuts.

[@markthomasson5077]

Japanese saws tend to make a thin sheet of plywood judder as it is pulled away from the support. Otherwise good. Great for trimming doors bottoms without removing them.

[@ianlevitt6920]

You are using the Japanese saw wrong, you have the front end pointing down. If you have the front end pointing upwards you can cut to the line on top of the board as well as the line on the face towards you. Nice and square both ways.

[@craftsmanwoodturner]

I have always hated standard Western saws, because I could never get them to cut well. Pushing the blade gives rise to a tendency for the blade to bend or bow between the handle and the cut - this reduces the efficiency, and can sometimes even damage the saw. By contrast, pull saws will never bend on the cutting stroke, as the blade is under tension throughout. It *is* still possible for the blade to bend on the return stroke, but this is much less likely as the wood resistance is lower, and the operator usually uses less power.

[@hectorae86]

Yes, the western saw is better for fast cutting when accuracy is less important... But you'd nit be using a handsaw in thise cases anyway, at least I wouldn't.

[@MsRmaclaren]

I started using pull saws 35 years ago and have never looked back. I tossed my push saws in the garbage.

[@dougthomson5544]

Hmmm … for me the critical difference is that the Western saw cuts on a compression stroke while the Japanese saw cuts on a tension stroke. The Western saw has to be thicker and heavier to avoid bending while the tension stroke avoids that problem and can be thinner. Of course, the thinner saw has a smaller kerf and when you include the tooth design differences between the two we end up with a faster cut, smaller kerf and less work.

[@catdeddy8427]

Many Japanese saws have teeth with no “set” to them. That means they are not leaning to the side. These saws with tooth set are great for flush cutting dowels, etc. while preventing scratching the face of the wood. There are some Western saws that have no tooth set, but they are still more difficult to use for flush cutting.

[@schaded]

I was taught by a elder carpenter to point your index finger towards the tip of a western style push saw as this keeps you from over gripping and inducing bend in the saw as you push through the cutting stroke.

[@oldpossum57]

Could saw design be influenced by the cost of steel in West vs Japan in earlier centuries? I know that Japanese chisels are steel welded to iron. Someone better informed can address this

[@jonrichardson2641]

Japanese saws I have heard, pull the spirit of the wood towards you. This is something deeply instilled in the Japanese people.

[@earlmorton1216]

I find that Japanese saws are easier to use--so they require less skill--for occasional users, because during the cut stroke the blade is under tension, whereas a Western saw tends to flex and bind in the kerf.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Individually sharpened teeth, with little offset, now thats a clean, fast-cutting saw

[@lukeblackford1677]

Western saws will bow on the cutting stroke if they aren’t sharp, that doesn’t happen on a pull cut stroke, the blade stays straight.

[@kbenk108]

very informative. Can't wait for your full-on training, that you mentioned in your previous video