Jeep Liberty Diesel Timing Belt Replacement Part 3 - Engine cover and Re-Timing Engine

[@darkstarmobile]

Former Colorado resident checking in from Australia. Currently working on setting the timing on one of these engines…except it’s the Chinese knock off version found in the LDV/Maxus T60. No timing marks or anything to go off of, but you’re still a life saver for having this up! Thanks much, mate!

[@IcarusOffroad]

On my personal vehicle I only did the belt at 100k, I will do everything at 200k. Most of my customers opt to replace it all. The labor cost is the same so it comes down to the parts cost. If parts costs are getting you down its possible just to replace the belt and for $100 be done. There are people who go past 100k because the cost of everything hurts, only to have a failure and have it cost more. I don't make specific recommendations and prefer to inform and let the owner decide.

[@hgrimberg]

So do you recommend to just replace the timing belt alone? Or do you really recommend replacing those other tensors and pulleys, or rockers I think you call them? What is the real risk of not doing it? By doing those witness marks you avoid replacing them?

[@mrmerc108]

Is the fan left or right handed thread

[@IcarusOffroad]

No I charge quite a bit more for labor. A belt alone can be purchased online for a little less than $100. If you don't have the tools and you only want to do the belt turn to 90*aTDC, mark everything really well, and put it on following the video. It's better to do just the belt for $100 than ignoring it and letting a worn belt trash $800 worth of rockers + the extra tear down to replace the rockers.

[@hgrimberg]

Do you charge $100 for the labor of replacing the belt? Thank you and congrats for your great explanation! So, the only way to just replace the belt is if you do it right taking care of the witness marks?

[@1stepp]

I found the bolt you say to put the 13mm socket on is actually 1/2". I tried 13mm and it would always slip off. 1/2" is perfect. In fact all the fan idler pulley bolts were SAE.

[@steamwayofcentralva]

Any recommendations on the use of Crown parts, other than the water pump?

[@jonlukowicz5422]

Hello sir, i just had a quick question regarding the rocker replacement as well. My question is once you time the motor 90° after TDC and insert the three timing pins, and you remove the belt and all accessories to pull the intake manifold/valve cover to replace the rockers, are you able to leave the timing pins in the camshafts so that once you put everything together the motor is already timed? Thanks i appreciate the videos man, very detailed! Cheers

[@IcarusOffroad]

Yes you can leave them installed. It’s easier to see that the pins are installed and lines up correctly before you install the cover. Timing the engine before you take it apart is really only to help you put it together later. I don’t even bother to time it before I take it apart anymore. And only when I go to put it together do I install the pins into the cover, turn the crank to 90 aTDC and assembly. Obviously for a timing belt only replacement you install the pins before taking the belt off. But if you are taking the intake off it it really only matters that they are in when it goes together.

[@jonlukowicz5422]

@@IcarusOffroad thats awesome good to know! Thanks for the reply! Im currently in the middle of the tbelt job on my 06. I decided while I'm in there to do arp hesdstuds as well, ive done reading on the one-by-one method, and saw that arp provides an instruction sheet for doing that method and pulling the head. Is there any tips or tricks you have for doing the one-by-one method? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Again, thank you very much sir!

[@IcarusOffroad]

@@jonlukowicz5422 be ready to clean the threads out for the arp studs. The studs are a little longer on the exhaust side to you might get some intererence and have to grind the intake a little to clear them. I think I show some video of this in the later parts of my junkyard crd engine videos.

[@courtneyp3145]

Hi - did you use any of the following tools, or did you find work arounds?? Intake Camshaft Alignment Pin Exhaust Camshaft Alignment Pin Crankshaft Alignment Pin Dual Camshaft Lock Tool Timing Belt Tensioner Spanner Wrench Camshaft Counterhold Tools thanks for any info :)

[@mymomentummedia]

I wanted to ask. My crd has 130,000 and seems to run great I’m gonna do the belt and water pump and tensioners Is it necessary to do the rocker arms or is it over the top maintence ?

[@IcarusOffroad]

Its really 50/50, if the EGR has been disabled for a long time and thicker than factory engine oil run then they could be just fine. But if the EGR has been active for that whole time and someone ran 0w-20 oil, then its fairly likey they are worn.

[@IcarusOffroad]

The crown idlers appear to be on par with the OEM idlers.

[@vincenzoniccoli1986]

Very helpful indeed. Thank you.

[@jessthurman6864]

Can i get a witness mark?

[@cihadercankvanc1767]

Excellent

[@advrx1041]

Are you still working on these? I could really use your advice if you are willing??

[@IcarusOffroad]

ADVRX yes it do. Asking is free. Ask away.

[@advrx1041]

I have set a goal for my 2009 wrangler to install a 2.8l crd. Every likes Hemi's or LS motors. I prefer the mileage and overlanding type of travel. I need to find a Jeep first 05/06 crd liberty. I have watched a lot of your videos and learned quite a bit about the engine. Your videos are excellent by the way. I have a small channel and would love to collaborate with you on this swap. I will basically take any suggestions you have about what year, what to watch out for. Even where to find one. I am most interested in what you would suggest to do with a high mileage one before it is installed. Thank you so much.

[@IcarusOffroad]

ADVRX is recommend you look for a JK donor over seas and get the JK 2.8. The JK 2.8 is the next generation of the KJ 2.8 but it’s as close to a “bolt in” that you are going to get. While you could make the 05/06 CRD work there are some electronic difference than mean the JK 2.8 will be a much cleaner swap.

[@advrx1041]

@@IcarusOffroad I am sure the cost of shipping an engine from .... would cancel the project. I have worked on VW's and have considered using a TDI. I have decided I want to use a liberty engine. A company out of Tacoma called "diesel toys" has videos online of a jk swap with a CRD. They no longer offer a kit and are reluctant to share any knowledge or experience, understandably. But still, I can tell by the airbox lid in the video they are using a US motor. At least based on what I can see in an Aussie 2.8 replacement video and the diesel toys video. I think I can figure out the swap, I just want to make sure the obvious things are done. For example, the EGR delete, metal torque converter, timing belt replaced prior to installation.

[@IcarusOffroad]

ADVRX I’ve considered this same swap for years. And I have a complete donor vehicle sitting in my driveway now. I would still buy an engine package overseas. For reference I purchased a Land Rover 110 in Europe and had it shipping to Tacoma for $1900. That was a complete vehicle via RORO.

[@hgrimberg]

Ok, so if you mark it really well, then you can just do the belt alone.

[@triggered9541]

I am having trouble removing the crank pulley. I removed the 4 10mm bolts like you did but the thin won't budge, even with heat. Any tips?

[@IcarusOffroad]

Tap on it with a hammer around the center lip to break it loose.

[@911SHIZBO]

This looks like a total pain in the ass to get too as far as doing TB's go. Great videos though.

[@IcarusOffroad]

Righty tighty, lefty losey.

[@tresormamba2421]

jai suis mecanisen BMW.

[@mayster58]

17 хвилин бустої болтовні. Ні про що. Тема розкрита зовсім.