4 Ways to Improve Your Suspension for FREE!

[@JeffWalker84]

I'm glad so many of you are enjoying this video and finding it useful! Let me know what tech video you'd like to see in the future

[@_.momjeans_9219]

Can you do a video on choosing the right handlebar bend? Also thanks for putting out good continuous content jwalk

[@jpracing_fab1348]

@@_.momjeans_9219I agree. Don’t race or ride competitively but feel lost when it comes to bar bend.

[@JeffWalker84]

Coming right up! Should be uploaded tomorrow

[@_.momjeans_9219]

@@JeffWalker84 seen the announcement on instagram I’m hyped 🤘🏻

[@jeff40]

I need my front and rear suspension redone with stiffer springs plus a revalve. I'm 53 yrs. old and have a 2011 KTM 300 xc. It's due for a piston and reed valves. I know it's a old Katoom but I'm thankful I can still ride at all having MS since 1996. Love the 300 smokers.

[@CameronNiemela]

I don’t think I’ve seen anyone explain front end alignment as well as you did. I wish everyone knew how much of a game changer it is getting your forks dialed. Thanks for putting out great info Jeff!

[@JeffWalker84]

Can’t tell you how much that means to me coming from you, Cam! Trying to live up to the bar you set when it comes to technical videos🙏🏼

[@alexarmstrong1134]

Hope you doing well 🙏🏻💪

[@alejandrodecian9552]

​@@JeffWalker84ví

[@Kevvpetee]

This interaction made me smile from ear to ear

[@ThomasPinette-lo9rg]

Cameron hope ur doing good keep strong praying for you buddy !

[@thedridge10]

I love how Jeff says you’ll see the pros do this or that but is to humble to say that he in fact is a pro. You’re the man Jeff!

[@woodkraftsfwi1999]

You be surprised to know that most pro’s can’t even tighten their chain… Jeff is a pro rider and a pro mechanic out of necessity… …and is a pro KZbinr too. 😂

[@davidsollenberger2998]

I’ve never seen the alignment broken down like that in my 30+ years of racing. Super informative! Appreciate it Jeff

[@THAxBLiNt]

Before this video my front suspension must have been so out of whack, I had no idea about any of this stuff! I now re-align my front end if I have any sort of tip over at the track. The tip about the setting the fork height with front axle being able to slide freely is absolutely gold!

[@Papparratzi]

This old Old dog just learned some new tricks. An engineer from Luxon also recommended to me using anti seize to lubricant the bolts to get a consistent torque. Keep in mind the bolts stretch after the first torque and will change tension each time they’re torqued and the factory torque specs are dry torque. If you’re using anti seize and use dry torque specs, you’re over torquing the bolts. In particular, the lower clamp will bind the internal bushing. The engineer recommended a lower torque on my Husky T clamps. In my case, I think he recommended 9 wet lower and 12 wet upper. It’s a good idea to find out if your torque specs are wet or dry. I suspect they’re dry. Anyhow, I learned some very important things and I really appreciate your info and excellent editing.

[@WholesaleTurbos]

Suspension bolts arnt done up like head bolts or rod bolts, nor are they as long. you should not see any real stretch Lubed threads and heads do make a difference but it might not be as much as you think

[@justinelko588]

I have 4 years of experience on working on aircraft and an extensive school on aircraft maintenance. Putting antiseize on the threads changes the torque that youre applying, so youre probably applying more torque than what the OE specification is.

[@Hanibul_Lecktor]

Reduce torque value 25%, probably should of mentioned that with your vast wisdom you've offered...Kinda sounded elitist, until you failed to offer the very information you're criticizing 😅

[@gregorgeiger8385]

Hey Jeff, after 20 years of wrenching on my own dirtbikes, i just learned a lot from your video. Thank you very much for this great and helpful content! Best regards from Germany 🇩🇪 ✌🏾 Possible Content for the next videos: 1. cleaning and oiling the air-filter perfect 😊 2. Right jetting on a 2stroke. 3. Not a tech tip, but how to warm up before training or racing

[@insertgoodname4809]

This video should have way more views. This is *the best* fork alignment vid on youtube. I have an ebike with all the symptoms you described. My forks had a "crust" just how you described. Just aligned them and they have never felt this good. I thought I needed better forks. You saved me a fortune!

[@LocalGarage]

Great video, but a couple things you might think through; If the rear suspension parts are not worn, the nuts and bolts clamp into the bearing spacers, which ride on the bearings. Whether you torque those with the bike on a stand or on the floor won't affect how the spacers and bearings act. KTM PDS shocks articulate on hiem joints versus roller bearings and they may benefit from being on the floor, but a linkage bike wont. On the forks, I do 2 things different than you discussed. I learned that one can tighten the triple clamps on twisted forks pretty easily which throws everything else out of wack. To align the triple clamps with each other I remove one fork tube. On the other side I snug all 4 pinch bolts until the fork tube can't spin. this should align the clamps with each other. you'll know you got it right if you slide the other fork tube in and it slips right into the upper clamp. If the clamps are misaligned the lower clamp would not guide the fork perfectly into the upper clamp. So that procedure aligns the clamps. Next you need to align the lower lugs on the axle. Your technique should get you close. But a Motion Pro fork alignment tool will allow you to get it perfect. Also, once you use this tool one time, you'll know where the lug needs to be on the axle to have proper spacing and you can set it back to the same place time and again visually.

[@alexrateliff4784]

I'm with Local Garage on this. A linkage bike with parts that are in spec it doesn't matter if it's torqued on the stand or with a gorilla on the seat if shouldn't bind. Everything rides on the spacers and inner races that are precision machined. Once torqued they're all lined up. To each their own. However, the info in the video on the forks is spot on.

[@colinbowman8816]

Yes about the rear end. And for the front - you mean Motion Pro ForkTru Part No. 08-0412?

[@honda4100]

Jeff.... this is truly one of your best videos, never seen suspension installment broken down in steps so easy to understand!

[@JeffWalker84]

Wow that means a lot! Thank you

[@ryanbisi3830]

I think a proper “Race bike prep” video could be super useful for people to have a checklist on what the pros make sure is dialed in before a race

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Good idea. Some of the "pro" mechanics could use it too. Come on! Would you let Mathis wrench on your race bike? Not me baby. :)

[@connorahlers3468]

Take everything off. Clean it. Inspect it. Apply loctite, assembly lube, grease, dielectric grease and torque it all down.

[@korabeats_]

Just greased the whole back end of my bike today with the maxima waterproof grease. Stuff sticks so well! Tore apart the linkage, took the swingarm off, wheel bearings, bushing/sleeves, needle bearings, etc. Good clean on all of it, but I did torque everything on that stand. Glad I watched this! Will be loosening it all up again tomorrow and torquing it on the ground.

[@WestBoundaryPhotography]

Like the technique for alignment quite effective, plus very good idea for lock tight on the stem pitch bolt. A couple things to consider, after the top stem nut is tighten to preload the bearings to what feels good, always use a dead blow mallet and tap the upper triple at the fork leg to destress the upper triple it will move down slightly on the fork legs. this helps maintain the proper flex profile and alignment of the upper to the forks. one other thing if you use anti-seize or grease on the bolts the torque spec changes some. MFG torque spec is for the bolt dry, not a greased/anti-seized (wet) one. What happens is with it greased/anti-seized and torqued the factory spec is that it actually increases the tension on the bolt creates more clamping force, like torquing them dry to a much hight number. Thus deforming the fork tube some. which no one wants. The grease/anti-seize reduces the friction at the bolt head flange and between the threads, With a greased/anti-seized bolt the torque can be lowered by 20-30% because of this reduction in friction during torquing, and still keep the same tension and clamping force with the same flex profile of the triple and forks as when torquing to the MFG spec with everything dry.

[@tndeere]

Great Job!! At age 57 I've been a life long rider and thats the best info i have seen on suspension alignment. Very detailed. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

[@endurofurry]

I worked for a KTM service dealer for a year to learn all the tips and tricks to make me a better personal mechanic. (pretty sucky year but I did learn a lot) not 1 time had they ever told me about the front end axel alinement... makes a lot of sense. will be doing it this way going foward.

[@saddlsor]

Very detailed how-to here; very well done Jeff. While I'm no racer, and when I ride in the dirt my bike weighs twice what y'all ride (1250 GSA), it's worth noting that the same principles apply to street bikes. Sag, alignment, lube and torque. Won't make us "faster", but doing all these the right way sure do help to keep from wearing out parts, and can add to a smoother ride as well. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and your experience.

[@glennmerriman8382]

I like your polishing of the axle. Just today had to repair yet another Yamaha axle, which looked like it had been installed with a sledge hammer. The end was badly mushroomed by repeated hammering with a steel hammer. Even the axle hole in the fork was damaged. This lead to fork misalignment and the fork bushings having the Teflon coating worn down to the copper layer. I joked that there needs to be a hammer license introduced, so that people cannot buy one or use one anywhere on a motorcycle, until they have completed a comprehensive course. People please stop hitting your axles in with steel hammers. If your axle does not slide in by hand, investigate why. Jiggle the wheel, wriggle the fork lowers, and if you absolutely must tap it, then gently use a plastic or rubber hammer.

[@cucumberlumber1463]

Dude ive been riding for 25 years and I learned more about front end setup in your youtube video than all my years on a bike. Do more of these tech talk videos!

[@jedielder7970]

I've never heard of holding the front brake and pushing down on the forks to align the front axle... interesting. I usually do a variation of that, where I keep the front wheel off the ground (bike stand), spin the front wheel and apply the front brake to stop the spinning (I do this a few times), and then hold the front brake and tighten the lower bolts (my brother is usually with me). That seems to align the front fine. I do like your method, as well, by spinning the front axle, so I will have to try that. I know a lot of people neglect their rear linkage. Thanks for the excellent video, as usual.

[@abpob6052]

@18:20 tech tip...if you have uncaged needle bearings, leave the pin in the bearing slightly and clean and pack the opposite side of the bearing. Repeat for both ends. That way you won't get any needle bearings working their way out of the bearing on your greasy finger. Cleaning and packing the suspension bearings is about the worst maintenance job on a bike but with Maxima Waterproof Grease and maintenance every 20 hrs those needle bearings will last forever and your suspension will work perfectly. Use a torque wrench when reinstalling your suspension components.

[@trevorallison1046]

Dude, this is honestly a game changer. Hoping for more tech videos like this in the future!

[@mqcamo]

You nailed how my 300 was feeling, binding up high, like the crust. I just finished running through the steps and it has made a hell of a difference, can now push down on the fork with out having to grab the front brake. Excellent video mate, cheers

[@huckfinn4260]

I've been riding dirt bikes since 1975 and most of the info in this video was a true revelation for me. I learned a lot. Thank you.

[@Brap.Bryant]

Day 102 of Cheering on Jeff: GO JEFF!

[@llp1432]

Day one of cheering for the guy that’s cheering on Jeff: GO JEFF

[@SlowRider72]

I was skeptical at first about the rear end tightening sequence, but it seemed to work. I have been doing the front end alignment like this for years on all of my bikes. Great tutorial video!

[@milksteak250]

This is exactly wtf is feeling weird with my rebound, it just feels mushy coming up. Thanks for this old video, lol. I regreased everything and torqued on the stand. Suspension is trickier than I thought. Thanks for the tips!

[@tomatdb52]

Really well explained and easy to understand even for non-native English speakers. I’m rewatching the vid now as I’m doing my forks. Did the rear yesterday. Thanks! 🙏🏼

[@MarkSpencerAZ]

As a mechanical engineer, I can affirm that this is the most sensible way to align your front axle. Thank you!

[@dallascferguson]

I got a 2020 yz450f brand new in 2019. Sent the suspension to factory connection. They sent it back and I put it on. never touched anything setting wise. Come to today and it still feels great :)

[@ivnepe]

Thank you!! I had problems for a year with my front wheel Great tip tie first the stem bolt and then the triple clump Bike working great!!

[@nicholasbaker2904]

Glad the algorithm threw me this video. I had a low speed drop that twisted my front end beginning of this past season and I feel I fixed it but it was never perfect. I'll deff be doing all this with the upcoming off season.

[@zachpark7854]

Thanks for this information Jeff. This is the best teaching video I have seen on how to set up the front end. I've been racing 25 years and had the friction issues you speak of in the forks. This is a way better way to do it. Would love to see more bike set up content. I lived in Sylvania for 17 years so it's fun watching a homeboy do well.

[@dinglesdingler1211]

This is solid. When i tighten my pinchbolts, i do the right side bottom clamp, then the top clamp nut, then the right side bottom clamps. Thos squares the fork leg in the bottom clamp and then squares the top clamp to the leg. That way you can be sure your left fork isnt twisted at all. Then proceed with the axle, etc.

[@apmoto3889]

Do not stop doing videos like this. This was perfectly done. Right to it, everything you said is correct and crucial. Subscribed

[@logancarlo5]

I thought you were supposed to put grease on the front axle so that might explain why my front end binds cause I put a decent amount of the maxima grease on the axle

[@cooganbeggs4942]

Thanks so much for this info Jeff! So useful. I’d just add that its best to have your gear and helmet on when doing the sag. loved the standing tip, and it’s a bit of a wake up for me on cleaning everything so thoroughly 👍

[@JeffWalker84]

That’s a good point! Slipped my mind since this isn’t a dedicated “How to Set Sag” video, but if I make one of those in the future I will definitely mention that🤙🏼

[@jamesdenton3692]

ALL your gear ,tools and hydration kit.@@JeffWalker84

[@4rotorguy974]

I'd add lubing the fork dust seals. Reduces friction

[@danblekeberg2470]

Thank you for showing the proper way to set sag !

[@RobertKehl]

Another way, which I use on my dirt and street bikes to align the none bolt/disk side fork lug. After you have completed the steps of tightening the axel bolt and lug bolts. Have the other lug bolts loose on the none bolt/disk side. Make sure you can freely move the fork lug back-and-forth and it’s not binding. Have the bike on the stand with the front wheel off the ground. Now grab the front wheel and spin it in the front direction. While the wheel is spinning grab the front brake aggressively to stop the wheel. Do this two or three times. This method will self align the forks so they are naturally parallel to each other. Now you can tighten the pinch bolts.

[@mozer30]

This is a great video…but I may add that torque specs specified in manuals are usually DRY specs unless otherwise stated (which is why the bolts aren’t lubricated from the factory). By using a lubricant on the threads it greatly increasing the bolt clamping force to achieve the same torque spec. In effect you’re over- torquing the bolts, so the torque figure should be reduced. For anti-seize it may be necessary to reduce torque numbers by up to 50%….which is a huge difference. There’s lots of info online regarding the issue.

[@TheGerminator12]

I'm not going to lie The best way to find a spot on you tube to grow, is to create Value... that will Create Subs. Just make shore its in a more Fun and creative way with out loss of INFO in each video. Keep it up Jeff. don't give up. prove you can make it on this platform.

[@Grimmi112]

Thank you for the detailed and great explanation. The Italians (Beta) also have a "Steering Stem Pinch Bolt." Everything is perfect to do exactly the same on your own bike. Thank you very much.

[@goliathindustries1068]

I don't usually comment on videos, but i must say i am very happy to have learnt what i think should be the standard procedure. Well done.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Fork alignment! There is no way to know for sure if you are not measuring the distance: I made a simple tool and found none of the YT methods are very good, (up to .030" off). Your method is new to me though, and I now understand why you polish the axle. My tool will have your forks parallel with in + or - .001" for the length of the stroke. It is simple, with one piece of aluminum round stock, (made for your bike): I used 1" diameter aluminum round stock and faced off both ends on my lathe (I have a little machine shop) to 5.661" long for my 2019 YZ250 2-stroke. I measured the center to center fork spread at the triple clamps, subtracted one diameter of the lower slider leg, and got my tool length. I tighten the brake side of the forks, with the wheel off the ground, slide that stock through the disk brake and between the chrome fork legs, and tap the right fork on the axle until the stock is tight between the legs (and straight). Tighten the last axle clamp, carefully remove the stock, and the forks are perfect every time and measured. Make that tool, and you will see the measured error of other ways. :) How much better is that? After doing the other YT methods before making the tool,---I had to go to stiffer fork springs after the tool. The difference was binding from bad alignment. Now, I am getting the best from my YZ SSS forks, (best forks I ever had) and enjoying every bump and tree root with them. :) Doug in Michigan

[@MulTfrancis]

Hey man love the content - very informative. I realize you’re a linkage guy but anything on pds for the rear? Any content there? Also are your bolts titanium? For your triple clamp?

[@ShiftGearsMoto]

As a KTM SX-F owner, this was such a great video. The front alignment setup was unique and I'm going to try it next time.

[@jeffhill2971]

Great video for explaining the important of the suspension PM & alignment

[@davidtucker5775]

Awesome vid. To add to cleaning bores like the fork axle clamp; roll up the scotchbrite around a 1/4”-3/8” (or whatever size you need) paddle bit. Attach the scotchbrite-wrapped bit to your driver. Insert into bore and use that to essentially hone the inner diameters.

[@guyroy4857]

Thank you I’m rebuilding the suspension on my 1999 KX 250. Definitely useful information.

[@wtfftw24]

Very good video. I would advise: About sag it's better to wear helmet and boots for a more precise measurement. About front end what I also do is, after your good alignment, you spin the wheel and then break quite hard, then you lock the front lever with some tape, then you pump the forks and then you tighten all. This will also center the caliper so that the wheel will be perfectly free to spin. Cheers from Italy 👍

[@London11Kyle]

I would 100% love a video where you break down taking apart the swing arm and greasing bearings, I just got my first KTM and first new bike.

[@MOS09W1]

Fantastic video Jeff! The trick of spinning the front axle to align it is excellent. Thanks for the taking the time to explain all of this.

[@MOS09W1]

Also loving the hat! Thanks for supporting VetMx.

[@yoryo350mx]

I just did it on my bike super easy to do your step by step front wheel alignment spot on. Keep doing more tech videos and how to set up the bike depending on the condition. Personally I really struggle with that and as a vet rider is pretty much one set up for all tracks and conditions. But I will love to learn more

[@MotoMatt418]

Love videos like this. Thanks Jeff. Hugely important for us out here that don’t have the tested experience of how proper maintenance translates to great handling. Do more! 🙏

[@jeffarcher400]

Another possible cause of harshness can be softening compression and rear shock spring to try and get a soft ride. Instead we blow past the initial phase where supple absorption occurs and ride around in the steep part of the rising rate where the suspension is trying to protect against bottoming. Temperature is another possible cause of harshness especially for camping. That fluid is like molasses until it warms up. On a hot day the fluids can thin and never cool if the bike sits in the sun.

[@jamieargent7139]

Thanks Jeff for helping us all out do a video on greasing the linkage to got my vote.

[@MoT0Kr3W]

Great Video J-Walk! I’ve been setting my sag and suspension for a while now and I took a lot of good tips from your video I’m goi g to apply next time I freshen up my suspension!

[@duc6132]

Thank you!! I have been off my bike for years and getting back on now and needed this information!!

[@realcharlebois8719]

These tech talk video's are incredible! Thanks Jeff

[@mxr248]

I use grease and boat grease mixed. It has worked very well and helps keep moisture out.

[@jetrep]

Great video. I'm going to try your fork alignment method. The suggestion to hear the bolts is questionable. Typically manufacturers will specify doing so if that's their other. The grease can cause the bolts to be effectively over torqued.

[@user-se7vt5ow4e]

Great video and perfect timing.I just pulled my rear shock and linkage for service.

[@harryjohnson347]

Thanks. I learned allot. Would like to say, if you're getting hammered with small bumps, your forks are responding to slow. Go out a click but you'll need to go in a click on compression at the same time as they affect each other. Good video! 😎🇺🇸

[@MrLloyd1957]

Thank you for taking the time to educate people Have 78 rm250 Just got 24 yz 250 Thanks

[@swektmaico]

What is assembly lube that seem to be unknown outside USA. Snake oil?

[@metalwheelz]

Awesome - I usually use that first method (with good results), but your loose axle method makes a whole lot of sense. Imma give that a go.

[@ng79801]

Thanks for making this video. I just realigned my forks because of this and it made a huge difference.

[@phillipball-reed8071]

Great video. The option 2 on the front fork alignment is an eye opener!

[@connorallen5150]

Ive been doing this stuff wrong for years, I learned so much from this video! Thank you jeff!

[@JeffWalker84]

Glad it helped!! Now go get your bike dialed in😜

[@abpob6052]

Sag is a tuning tool. If you want to be a serious racer and maximize your bike performance test many sag settings. If you multitask you bike with harescrambles, enduro, mx, etc. you may have a specific sag that works best for that type of riding. Wear all your gear including your drink system if you use one to set your sag and try to have the same amount of fuel in the tank.

[@pkuudsk9927]

Cool video well done., you hit every point about how to learn One thing I tell everyone to do is just break free all the bolts once a month if your just a average have fun rider and let things reset naturally, especially after a crash and retighten. I will send people to this video. You talk way to fast but people can rewind and learn. Dive deeper into oil levels and how 2mm changes things might be another video.? One way over looked thing is wheel bearings at 10 dollar part can f this all up and why a taper bearing is your friend vs a roller bearing. Personally I set everything full torque and then remove each bolt one at a time and then lock tight them. I would never be able to make this video myself so you have done a great video explaining why and how things change. Things people don't think about.

[@damarpo5467]

Thank you!!! very good and important information.

[@tcparker2]

This video helped a bunch with getting my new bike dialed.

[@michaelanderson2689]

Handle bar position and lever setup, and if you’ve seen about Jett and Hunters lever setup, so to avoid breaking levers in crashes or imo give an easier and lighter pull ….

[@1wheeldrive751]

I think some of that idea that you have to load your suspension before tightening the pivot points comes from the automotive world, where many suspension pivots don’t have bearings and are some form of rubber or plastic that deflects with the suspension. I don’t think it makes much difference on a motorcycle with bearings in every pivot. But y’all do what makes you feel good.

[@lucadowjones]

how do you aline your handlebars and your wheel. thanks

[@privacyrequired3969]

Great explanation, cheers Jeff from the UK. Appreciate your efforts for the community.

[@jacintofjimenez5342]

Hi Jeff thank you for sharing, you explain the details very clearly. One recommendation for your videos. Would you please slow down the talking speed in that way we don’t have to go back and forth to catch up all the details. Beautiful bike!

[@CalebDenson]

I’ve always struggled to find the best way to center up the forks on the axle but this worked like a charm. Thank you sir!

[@JeffWalker84]

Glad it worked for you!🤙🏼

[@gccfp]

Well, that explains a lot for the weekend hacker! No wonder. Maybe if we knew this years ago we would be pro -- - ha! Sharing your knowledge and mechanics both are enjoyable and super helpful. Shows me how little I know! Thanks

[@joshuaharris9448]

Was able to produce 2 pages of notes thanks to this video! Thank you sir!

[@eriknash8783]

I love full on geeking out on shit like this. Nice video!!!! Although it seems like fully removing, cleaning , and greasing rear linkage and pivot every 15 hours seems pretty extreme. Having said that, I did all of this when my bike was brand new and now at 70 hours (FE501S Dual Sport) I have up/down play in the rear end and it seems like it's coming from the linkage pivots. Pulled the linkage to check and all of the pivots still have full on clean grease in them. No black. But, all 3 pivot pins do have a little play when inserted into the linkage while removed from the bike. Pretty annoyed as this was just one year of riding.

[@joethomas9634]

Dang I forgot about step 2 on the forks and how much better that is. I use to do that when I raced but took years off and went back to step 1 style squashing down on the forks. Thanks for putting that out

[@RedRupert64]

Some good info there - thanks. Your method of centering the fork leg is a great tip.

[@deep4soul]

I think I'll try your method of aligning the forks. looks good!

[@wee535]

Why do you use assembly lube for the front axel bolt and the bel-ray grease for the back? Genuinely curious if I shouldn’t be using grease on the front axel like I’ve been doing. Thanks in advance!

[@JeffWalker84]

The assembly lube is just a lighter grease that will allow the axle to spin/slide more easily in the fork lug for alignment purposes. The bel-Ray is thick enough that it could make it difficult for the axle to rotate. Once everything is tightened down, it makes no difference. The only purpose of greasing the rear axle is to stop corrosion, so the thicker it is the longer it lasts. Nothing actually rotates on the axle unless your wheel bearings are completely seized up!

[@Bikebros27]

Thanks for the video I’ve just got my boys some new Ktms so will go through all this and checks theirs. 🎉🎉

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Front fork triple clamp bolts: I dig that scotch brite bolt cleaning method with the power tool. Slick little trick.

[@ogasi1798]

holy shi7 i never thought about undoing top triple clamp when tightening the centre pin - thorough from start to finish, thanks

[@mikeburnett6222]

Awesome Jeff. This is a must for the Austrian bikers. Thanks for the video.

[@JasonDollas]

Great stuff Jeff, always willing to learn something new after 40 yrs. Very helpful, thanks man!!!

[@thedeepstate78]

Way to think and inform out of the box and share what you have seen and learned along the way.

[@kirkthepimp1]

I like this technique of spinning the axle using it from now on

[@chewyb383]

Great video! I almost didn't watch it (I know all this mentality). Been riding over 30 years. You showed me a couple things that I should be doing different. I appreciate it!

[@christophervillarreal8565]

The way I align the front wheel is I tighten the axle nut until it spins the axle then I torque the pinch bolts and then I torque the axle nut and it’s always perfect and I don’t have to tighten then loosen again just to get things centered.

[@boboleniczak1110]

Very useful. I'll try that when I get my suspension back. Thank you!

[@barnescycle]

Now that you have some woods legs under you, maybe this will make sense to you. Im having a hard time in the silt powder turns with the front wheel pushing out or through the turn. The AA guys seem to be glued to the ground while i struggle for traction. Kenda washougal 3 on the front spring conversion 23 300 xc. Anything is appreciated JWalk

[@inevespace]

Interesting method. From mechanical POV it should be better than traditional push method. I will try tomorrow. But I doubt about antisieze on bolts. The problem is that presence of lube will change clamping load at same torque because friction is less. When manufacturer tell you to use 12 Nm they mean use it for dry bolt, and they calculated that clamping will be proper at this torque based on friction of bare metal on metal. Adding lube will result in unproper clamping force. Yes, deviation is not big, 10-20%, but still, usually we don't want to increase clamping on fork tubes. I see many teams use lube, and I used myself. But I see how it can create problems in some circumstances.

[@JeffWalker84]

You may be correct, but in my opinion trying to torque dry bolts is pretty much impossible and has huge inconsistency. The bolt will stop and stick at random times, causing you to have to put a ton of pressure to get it moving again, then it will jump a quarter turn and mess everything up. I would rather have the consistency of a clean, lubricated bolt even if it ends up being 1-2Nm tighter than intended. To each their own, though!

[@dinglesdingler1211]

​@@JeffWalker84yeah agreed here...I use antiseize and I reduce the torque values by 20%. Internet varries between 10 and 30% so i split the difference. Risk of undertightening is having the forks move in the clamps, but i regularly case everything at NJFOD like a boss and nothings ever moved.

[@eriknash8783]

I definitely disagree on using antisieze because it is will allow a big difference in torque value, but I do use a very light machine oil just to ensure there is no galling or interference from poorly matched threads and I would only add it to the threads and not the seating face of the bolt head. Running the bolts through light scotchbrite pads is pretty brilliant, but how are you ensuring clean threads on the triples and fork legs?

[@inevespace]

@@eriknash8783 "but how are you ensuring clean threads on the triples and fork legs" thread chasers

[@FreeExploiter]

Can you do a video on what the bike does when clicking the rebound and stuff?