Liquid cooling A cheap 1kW Amazon Grid Tie Inverter Experiment

Ron's Channel / rongrosinger
$100 Inverter j35.us/1kwGrid...
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[@EL90291]

Contact surface is toooo small , will not be very efficient. The copper is only in contact with th top of the fin very small surface. Flatten the copper tube to increase the contact area.(trying to mimic a liquid cold plate cooler) Or... Open the inverter and attach the copper tube directly to the inside of the inverter (if there is enough room) Or... Open the inverter and attach directly a mosfet waterblock and add more water block to any hot spot electronics.

[@EL90291]

After checking a tear down of an inverter similar to the one you have, it look like the MOSFET are attached at the bottom and the bottom is flat. Just moving the copper to the bottom of the inverter should give better cooling result.(posing the inverter on top of your copper setup) P.S. big fan of all your diy

[@franciscojaviergonzalezlar3998]

Waterblocks direct to the MOSFET

[@movingnaturefilms]

Agreed. They need to mimic a liquid cooled PC system.

[@ahaveland]

Thermal coupling is (almost) everything!

[@rooster443]

How bout the skin effect? Like in an induction heater

[@revtmyers1]

Like so many have said it's all about surface area contact to maximize heat transfer. It will get you closer to the temperature drop you were expecting. Great idea overall.

[@zodiacfml]

Shocking. If you insist liquid cooling, try those computer all in one watercoolers and stick them to the hottest point of the inverter. edit: I see now how those chips are cooled by the inverter housing/sidewall. The only elegant way I can think of is to chop off a piece of heatsink material from those CPU coolers in the Intel Pentium 4 days and stick those to the opposite side of the chips.

[@cekpi7]

There are cheap watercooling blocks on ebay, get few of those and glue transistors directly to them, much better cooling performance and probably wouldn't cost too much.

[@thomashardin911]

Cekpi7 do you mean those nice blue cooling water blocks?

[@cekpi7]

Yep, they don't work that good with 100W cpus but should be fine with less load.

[@xapplimatic]

I would not put any water cooling blocks anywhere near the electronics of that inverter, if they leak, your inverter is done. It would be safer to push air through copper tubes as heat pipes than using liquid cooling. These inverters don't get that insanely hot like overclocked CPUs that they actually need that level of exotic cooling. Just forcing air to flow over the surface of the existing casing fins should be sufficient to cool them down a bit. These same 1KW inverters run every day outside in the hot stagnant air here in the Southern Cali Inland desert on my solar panels with no cooling assistance other than shade from the sun and the occasional breeze and they have not melted down or blown any MOSFETs yet and I've had them running daily for 2 years solid. Of course it helps that I don't run them into the ground by running them 100% duty cycle at their max rating of 1000 W. They run at about 60% capacity during peak hours at ≤ 600 Watts running two large 3x6 315 Watt (max peak) rated panels each, which is a far smarter way to play this game than maxing them out on design specs and adding costly exotic cooling schemes to make sure they don't fail just because we are running them too hard. People need to stop running electronic and electrical equipment at design peaks. It will last longer and cost you far less in the long run. The good rule of thumb in engineering is to always leave yourself 30% minimum overhead so you don't bump up against problems with individual components that are zealously overrated by their manufacturers and small flaws in components that don't manifest until you overdrive them by running them at 100% (peak ratings) as a baseline. The cost of the cooling schemes and eventual failures and repairs brought about to treat equipment this way far exceeds the cost of the simply adding another inverter here and there to distribute the DC power evenly across more devices at less than max peak design limit levels. Unlike CPUs, there is NO benefit to overdriving an inverter. None what so ever. Reliability goes to shit, longevity goes to shit, you'll be replacing inverters and what more did you get out of it than you would have if you had more inverters running at lower levels? It's not like it helped you produce your AC power faster or something. Lol.. Take this advice, don't combat heat, simply get more inverters or higher rated inverters to not generate so much heat that it becomes a problem in the first place. That is the correct way to make a reliable grid-connected or off-grid PV power system.

[@cekpi7]

@@xapplimatic Yes, i have to agree with that, i'm not that familiar with inverters but i am with high power amplifiers which work similarly. They are all designed with some headroom, using twice as much mosfets but i can tell you one thing, most mosfets can take a beating only if they are paired (parallel ones from same batch) and cooled properly. Most inverters these days are fairly efficient so 100w heat on something like 10 mosfets is nothing even with poor ventilation since most of them can go to 120c or so. I generaly don't want to run equipment to their max unless i have to, if i have to i will make sure it runs happy and doesn't overheat. I have seen some people in past taking transistors from ATX psu and mouting them to big passive heatsinks so i got my idea from that except it's waterblocks and not heatsinks.

[@cphank151]

Unless you're hell bent on liquid cooling, I'd recommend sticking with air cooling but with enhanced airflow. First of all, the inverters should be mounted on a vertical surface with their hotter end upward. This will assist convection through the fins, which are designed for maximum heat transfer with greatest airflow. The tiny fans built into the inverter only cool internal components. The heatsinks conduct to the outside air but are only minimally cooled by moving air inside the inverter. For better airflow the vertically mounted heatsink fins can be enclosed in vertical sides with maybe 1/2" to 1" clearance between them and the vertical walls. Extending these sides above the inverter by maybe a couple of feet will create a chimney effect and further aid airflow. Lastly, the airflow through the "chimney" can be drastically enhanced by removing the fans from your radiator and sealing them to the bottoms of the chimney(s) to assist convection cooling. All fans involved in this, including the small fans inside the inverter, should move air upward. With fans assisting chimney airflow, additional chimney height is probably not necessary but additional height is still desirable because it results in better airflow should the fan(s) fail.

[@AndreMiller-RED]

Version 2 is needed! U need more contact on the frame of the inverter

[@L1ne3]

when I worked at a factory where dust and oil got everywhere, the computers that control the machines were cooled by Peltier coolers. The computers were in a box sealed with the cool side and the other side of the Peltier is on open air with the heatsink with a fan. It kept the hardware insulated from all the dust and kept it cooler. It was a pretty simple setup.

[@davidriley7659]

very electrically intensive

[@AmmarAbotouk]

That's pretty cool man!

[@sebastiankoch1254]

The idea of ​​cooling the inverter is great, which should significantly improve efficiency. You just have to do it differently. In the first attempt, install the inverter in a watertight container and fill it with the 3m novec liquid. This is also used by the server manufacturer Fujitsu, which cools the servers efficiently. These are also completely covered with the liquid. Best regards from Germany

[@davidriley7659]

Also, as others have said, use demineralised water. tap water has minerals in it, that will eventually clog up your loop.

[@schwinnminibike]

Hey... nate im from nhc campers saw your video... solved your grid tie issue of heat by simply adding old pentium style heat sinks to the mosfets and increased the casing fan size..... thats all you need to do ... dont overthink it... worked for us...

[@BloodAsp]

Dunk it in a tank of mineral oil and chill the mineral oil.

[@MrAlex-jz4xi]

heyou i don't think its a good idea to dip in mineral oil 1000watt

[@121hearc]

Mr. Alex mineral oil is none conductive and will not hurt electronics. The only problem is mineral oil is expensive

[@AtimatikArmy]

Couple bucks per bottle at Walmart but it is scented (baby oil). No big deal but you would need several bottles because I think they are only like 10 or 12 oz size.

[@Bob_Lob_Law]

heyou Mineral oil is cool and all, but it's a tad bit complicated and if anything goes wrong, removal of electronics is a messy pain.

[@franciscojaviergonzalezlar3998]

PC in mineral oil get hot. This Is no the way

[@xMrHarold]

I have an idea! Buy Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing meant for car break lines filled with brake fluid. You should use some cooling solution but I have worked with these lines and you can bend them to the shape you want. You just need to be careful. You can bend it to go back and forth really close to each other and get a lot of contact area really close to the heat source! Good luck on your ventures!

[@xMrHarold]

Or just dump it into mineral oil. No electricity transfer and best cooling!

[@PhilipX2030]

Looking good Jehu. I appreciate your experimentation. I'm building a PowerWall and applying your best practices

[@andrewwaters2354]

jehu this is a great idea but i dont think there is enough contact area, also the inverter gets hot mainly where the switching components are (MOSFETS) and the cooling is too far away from this, i am a machinist and i instantly thought how cool it would be to make a water cooled heatsink that the mosfets screw directly to with thermal paste, that would work no question of a doubt. remember heat kills components quick, if you have a cool running system this inverter could prove really reliable and long running

[@BrynuxOS]

I removed the back plate and cable tied two spare 12v, 12cm case fans to it with a step-down power module off the solar 24v input so I could control the fan voltage/speed/noise. Works really well, internal fans never kick in because the large fans are always going quietly until there is no more sun.

[@davidriley7659]

Just looked up the heatblocks i was talking about. They're $3.30 USD delivered. The tubing woud fit over the existing barbs, and all you'd do is mount them on your inverters at the hottest point. To get it flat, i'd be inclined to use a mill, but i suppose maybe you could try a grinder.

[@livinginavandownbytheriver2349]

Great attempt. I did this for solar heating pools. Basic information about this: first, heat transfer through surface area( a couple smaller tubes vs one large); second, the type of fluid for heat transfer from "heat exchangers" (just water is one of the slowest for this process); and three, the rate of flow of the cooling fluid (gpm). Hope this helps with your designs. Cant wait to see the final results.

[@MIKE-il6mu]

Hi J you could smooth down the side of the inverter with a dremel where it gets hot. Then put a water block at the spot and connect that to your pump and radiator. Just remember to use thermal paste when you install the water block

[@Refthoom]

I agree with the other comments on using standard all in one ready made cooling sets for CPU's and stick the blocks to the hotspots. Also, if you are going to use 6 inverters at the same time, be sure they are on different phases. When you connect all close together on the same phase, the voltage will spiral up between them as they all want to be a little higher in voltage to 'push' the power to the grid. Then, when reaching their max voltage, they will (hopefully) shut down.

[@divlles]

good prove of concept but depend on how many yall are going put side by side you might think about useing a car radiator and mont that directly to the inverters for better heat exchanger as well as be a bit more efishiny transfer and then if you use lager pile going in and out to a slightly lager readers with a good flow rater you can probably get really good rezols for less cost and parts

[@allangilbert77]

it will work..... maybe a bit of conductive gel for better surface area to pipe contact.

[@toolsconsumables7055]

Dear Sir, Generally speaking water cooling is considered more efficient, this being the case, how about removing the aluminium cover to see how one could potentially connect water heat sinks are inside to the pipe work?. It’s just a thought as most high drain applications rely on water being a far more effective medium to dissipate the excess heat. Kind regards.

[@shaynegadsden]

ToolsConsumables if you intend to use the inverters in a grid tie situation you not be able to open and modify them since all grid tie devices have a certification process

[@toolsconsumables7055]

Dear Sir/Madam, Thank you very much for your comment. I am not familiar with inverters, I merely relied on our host's expertise to verify if such an idea might have been exploitable. Kind regards.

[@gregorythomas333]

"Are you authorized to use this?" Uh...my mom said it was okay" Got the Mom Stamp of Approval so Jehu is golden!

[@KamikazeWombat]

You could arrange stuff so the mosfets are mounted directly on the copper pipe (the pipe will flatten a bit where you mount them getting a better contact). Another possibility which would probably be more trouble than it's worth is to use epoxy to make a chamber around the part of the inverter shell that gets hot so that you can run the water directly across the case without all of the thermal transfer stuff in the way. That would probably work well if you could get it to be solid and not leak.

[@0x07AF]

I'd mill out every other fin on the heatsinks, then weave thinner copper tubing through each milled slot. Depending on the case metal I would consider completely soldering the pipes in place for better thermal transfer than the goo you're using now.

[@brianfont7880]

As always, very nice work. Thank you for doing these experiments, we all learn even from failure. A couple of points, 1. if you were getting good heat transfer from the copper pipes, you would have seen the temperature of the exit water much hotter. They seem to be the same temp going in as out. Seems like thermal transfer problem. 2. Thermal cameras "lie" depending on material type and reflectivity. The base material most demographers use is electrical tape. It always shows 0.95% of surface temperature. You can put a life on any surface to get accurate temp readings.

[@sporktar]

It looks like you may have gotten one of those aluminum radiators from amazon/ebay, i can't tell. Just a heads up, running a water cooling loop with aluminum and copper together will eventually lead to corrosion issues. What you could do is pick up one of those 20x60mm aluminum waterblocks off amazon, and attach them directly to the mosfets with some 2 part thermal adhesive. That setup could probably handle a few hundred watts of heat load.

[@aomanchutube]

for cylinder batteries, the best way of cooling is to cool the tabs. The heat transfers faster towards the metal/carbon rather than through the isolation layers. The isolation increases as the number of turns in the rolls increases, so energy cells are worst heat transfers though the body of the cell than to the cell ends. Also I think the negative side is probably the best way because the connecting tabs are probably making better heat transfer contact there than the positive side.

[@JessicaRyan7of9]

You could try using a larger pipe but flatten off the edges so it has more surface contact. Or you could try and use some peltiers on the side.

[@dandi5998]

Add extended cooling fins and use radiator coolant. The cooper pipe must contact well with the unit. Good demo.

[@adammurdoch1708]

Yea would need to build a new enclosure with water channels to really lower the temps getting pipes as close as possible to the FET's thermal paste needs to be as thin as possible to work well

[@timberthewolf733]

Open enclosure, thermal adhesive to copper plate to mosfets, solder to copper plate to copper pipe and boom much cooler.

[@williamhustonrn6160]

Recommendation: Unsolder the mosfets and extend them a few inches and mount them directly to the liquid cooling surface, maybe buy some rectangle or square copper pipe and mount the mosfets to the surface with thermal paste and a clamp. This would increase the surface area drastically as well remove the heat from the rest of the electronics. Would also make repairs easier in the future, as the mosfets are typically the first thing to break on inverters.

[@esqueue]

Another of many good water cooling options.

[@gordonwoo8127]

Overall great video. Do Not get discouraged. You will figure out a solution that fits all of your requirements.

[@845amg]

Ditch the heatsink entirely. Carefully hammer some 1"+ copper pipe nearly flat, or at least a flat surface. Then solder copper flat bar (with holes for every fet) to remount all of the fets to it. That way you can solidly mount all of the mosfets straight to the water pipe. Also equalize the flow so it doesn't bias one side of the loop, think a Y adapter feeding the pipes. The other option would take machining. Machine a block of aluminum with a channel shaped like a half pipe so it slips right over the copper pipe and has more contact area. Then attach your fets to that aluminum block. Bet that would work pretty well and be fairly reliable. Even easier would be drilling a hole straight through the block of aluminum and sliding the pipe in before brazing connectors. Just leave enough pipe sticking out so it's not a huge pain to solder the fittings on. That aluminum will suck up a lot of heat and you don't want to cook your thermal compound between the pipe and aluminum either.

[@Tiersmoke92555]

There are many ways to do this but as far as being passive 3 auxiliary transmission coolers (radiators). The inverter should be sandwiched between 2 and the third up higher out of the sun or heat. And of course you can do geo thermal cooling too on the cheap.

[@Nightowl_IT]

At 00:31 I am guessing it will not be effective until you weld it to the metal or build a custom metal case for the inverters. You can weld fins to the pipes with a robot or use old heaters people throw away when modernizing. 11:23 Use an inlet valve to top up the loop and don't forget the second inlet valve for air or just run the pump and use a 1/4" water cooling reservoir for PC building. As an alternative you can bandgrind the fins on the inverter case and try and solder the copper pipe to it. Flatten the pipes to make them rectangular to increase surface area.

[@RANDOG1951]

Jahu, Check out sweating copper joints for a much cleaner and successful non leak joint. A very common plumbing technic. Thanks for the videos. I can't begin telling you how much you've taught me.

[@thisgeneralmillennial100]

So I recommend first getting a filter and make a large contact surface for the pipes to increase efficiency. Second maybe get a larger rad or try a compressor with a decent rad

[@franciscosanchez9406]

(What you should of done is put the rubber tube in something that Will cool the water faster, I do believe the that fans didn't cool the water fast enough by what mean is that the when the water got to the inverter the water got hot but when it got to the fans the water didn't get it to where it was cold the water got it to where it was warm. And that where the inverter did cool down.) But I might be wrong.

[@badbob8394]

It is possible to build heat pipes with flattened copper pipe and acitone.

[@johnirving8237]

Aluminium square tube around the sides? Plus aluminium cooling plate underneath?

[@jasonneely2228]

What radiator was used?

[@lysol7204]

Dunk that inverter in a 5 gal bucket of mineral oil with a radiator Just to see how much it helps with heat! For "shits and giggles" Love your videos dude!

[@ServiceComputers]

If air cooling is desired, I'd swap out the stock fans for Noctuas or Deltas from server applications. If liquid cooling is the aim, I'd either remove the case & build a heat exchanger to mount against the MOSFETs or just immerse them in refrigerated mineral oil. But then again, I tend to level-jump. Great video.

[@rooster443]

Noice!! Jehu as always. Great stuff, ty. I will recommend take out the casing and soldering some aluminum right next to the tubes for effective heat transfer, also for maximum surface coverage make the tubes to make many turns, just like in the back of a refrigerator.

[@nonyabidness7207]

Sweating joints is an art!

[@MrTiger0002]

Open up the inverter... determine which parts are hotspots. If possible use liquid CPU heatsink or use heatsink adhesive to bond the surface to the cooler of your choice. Use multiple watercooled CPU heatsinks... or other watercooled heatsinks. It may be ugly at this point but for the purpose of testing, it doesn't matter. You can always build your own case at the end.

[@adubs.]

I wonder if the copper could be bent to shape the slight curve of the top and then soldered to the fins of the body. Also you're going to want some anti corrosive in your liquid because im almost sure thats a mixed metal system. It will break down over time. It would probably take a while but it will break down and reduce cooling efficiency. My other though would be to solder on a flat piece of metal to the tubes and solder the fets directly to it. It would leave the electronics exposed but you could build an enclosure for that.

[@Deiphobuzz]

You could remove the casing, have the area's with the mosfets behind them flattened with a mill or something and attach computer watercooling blocks. There are blocks available for motherboard mosfets. Long, thing and straight. They work a treat! I doubt these pipes make proper contact with the casing. enclosing them in a case with force ventilation from fans might even work better because you use the entire cooling surface from the case. Replace the stock cooling paste with some proper stuff and you should be golden. Love the cheap diy idea though!

[@ianpearson8567]

What about using car coolant?

[@atomicsmith]

Those inverters have the mounting holes on the sides where the mosfets are. Mount the inverters on a large piece of aluminum to help them disapate heat. Should be easier and probably just as effective.

[@pete00078]

I have use the same inverters, I have a $20, 15w 240v fan (Australia), the inverters are in a wooden box on a wall outside. the bottom is open and the top has an opening on each side, the fan creates a vacuum in the entire box and everything drops at least 15c

[@GregOnSummit]

I know this is old, but did you try submerging it in mineral oil? It's non conductive and draws off heat well.

[@peacefromtrees]

Seems the first step would be to modify the existing fan to improve cooling, perhaps a series of fans sucking in cool air from the basement or a hole in the ground that on really hot days you can dump ice into? And then once that's maxed out, target the parts of the device it's existing cooling system can't reach by attaching cooling fins/heat sink and more fans. Also a question: I wanna get a thermal camera attachment for my phone like yours for diagnosing bad cells in Prius hybrid pack, did you cover that in a previous video? What kind of thermal camera attachment do you use on your phone?

[@blakeblackbeard9627]

you could take apart the inverter and attach a custom water cooler to the chips the outer shell is connected to, also next time add a vertical reservoir to prevent bubbles. also a computer water cooling kit might help also

[@guzman9011]

Interesting video. What is the heat detection app you used on the phone ?

[@lunatik9696]

As other ppl mentioned, the surface area in contact is too small. If you would encase them in a cement like mix, there would be much better heat transfer. However, the cover would be more permanently attached to the cooling apparatus.

[@pedrocosta4842]

Better use smaller diameter tube, more coils and bigger area of contact, in order to take the heat out of the whole heated surface.

[@STONEDay]

How does this compare to just having fans blowing on the inverter?

[@moreboost]

It could also be the speed of the water and or the volume of water. Looks like the pipe size was reduced at the plastic line side. It may also benefit from a pre-cooled water reservoir. I think worth more testing and 10 degrees is a lot of cooling.

[@Ian-pe9rj]

Heat transfer is a function of surface area. You need a large surface area on the water lines to get good thermal transfer. Use a flat surface water block instead of the curved surface water lines and the heat transfer would be much better.

[@tbyte007]

Use thinner but more pipes so u can increase the conducting surface. And place them between the radiator fins if possible so they can fit tighter and take out more heat. Of course that will be lot more work :)

[@ag135i]

Thanks, Joshua what is your opinion about lithium titanate battery?.

[@doug606b]

Do these inverters shutoff when the grid goes down so as not to electrocute the linesman working on the powerline 2 houses up?

[@aa999xyz]

I would use one PC radiator with fans blowing right down on top of the inverter with two more radiators off to the side to cool off the first radiator?

[@treefrogs2894]

You can submerge it an oil create the oil circulation cooling system it will cool every component prolong the life off the unit and keep moisture out

[@edgarvaldez1462]

There's 4 ways to transfer heat. I can think of 2 way that's will allow u cool the system down more effectively without adding much complexity.

[@dstr1]

If you use 1/4" continuous copper tubing and run a continuous loop starting at the hottest point it will be much more efficient.

[@mountainman4410]

Use smaller pipe, and more passes over the unit. Also, use a coolant, rather than water. There is also connections you can use that require no soldering.

[@draizwrm]

you need 'FINNED' tubes, like those out of water based baseboard heaters something with more metal to metal contact to transfer heat to the cooling tubes

[@JohnAnderson-df2wk]

Good experiment, but wonder if just buying a slightly better inverter would resolve the heat build up/efficiency issue. Mixing water and electric components is probably not a good DYI project for the average Joe. I would have tried adding fins and a fan to the outside of the inverter first, even just using the thermal tape.

Best way to go is to open up the enverter. Make a custom housing with water loop built in and try again. You should be able to get better results that way.

[@jehugarcia]

Regular folks can’t recreate that so I’m not interested in expensive custom solutions

[@1Hippo]

Liquid cooling is only better if you need to cool a small area where you can't place big fins and fans directly on top of it. After all it goes into into a radiator that tries to dissapate the heat into the air. That makes sense for example for processors, so you place the radiator in the case. I would go with direct air cooling if you have the space for it, espescially because these inverter cases are already made for air cooling.

[@MoniKorbuly]

It would be great if you made a try with simply using a fan and comparing the two results.

[@lexus82su]

You need more radiator surface area & fans to lower the water temp, likely a bigger pump, and you need much better surface contact to make this worthwhile. Having worked with water cooling in computers, I can tell you from experience that you almost need to place the cooling interface in direct contact with the mosfets or their heatsink (soldered or flat surface-to-surface contact with the backs of the FETs or a flattened sink, instead of the thick layer of thermal compound "goop" - which will actually reduce the thermal transfer vs direct contact). Also, don't mix copper and aluminum in the cooling loop.

[@davidriley7659]

flatten a square on both "edges" with a mill, and attach a cheap heatblock (

[@one2toomany]

When the electrician tries to do plumbing.

[@ats8291]

Jehu, do you know anything about galvanic corrosion between aluminium and copper ?

[@readmore7180]

Remove the aluminium heat sink on The inverter, use a grinder to remove the fins in a square around the outside of the heatsink, get a square manifold made from a block of aluminium the same dimensions as the square you have ground out. Mount it to heatsink with bolts and sealant, run the coolant over the whole top of the inverter.

[@NoName-yr1jv]

I can make something that would work. You need a 3/4” vent elbow commonly used on baseboard heat with a bleeder to get the air out. The other thing is the way you piped it the water will take the path of least resistance. You need to put the tee on the ends in the middle to feed evenly. If you use 3/4” on the ends for the header and 4 or more 1/2 “ lines in between you will have more contact surface. You could also get sheet copper and solder it to the pipe for better heat sinking.

[@sinstik]

the contact surface is sooooo little, i'm surprised it anything at all...

[@gordonpatton9197]

Use tubing more passes, smaller diameter and a bender, eliminate most of the soldering, go to silver brazing!!! Would look more lie a condensor. Nice demo 10-11f good start

[@tyflos098]

U may find cpu cooling blocks and put them from inside to places getting warm

[@Fallen_Anglz]

I can't figure out how to use his battery selling link . I want to get in on those bulk batteries and get that sent to me up in Canada eh but I can't figure out how to get the silly thing to just take my money already:(

[@davey2k12]

Cud try loads of 10mm copper stacked soldered all to a 22mmboth ends good idea. enables u to move/pipe the cooler unit and fans to a different area like outside

[@CanonFirefly]

you need to get the fets in the inverter attached directly to copper that is then soldered to the pipes.

[@rodolfooliveira4831]

Hi, where you buy the cooler and pump? How type/brand of thermal cam you use?

[@lengthOFpole]

Hey if your going to look into water cooling to sink a bunch of waste heat "Geo-thermal is my preferred method" Dig a hole in the yard 4-6 feet deep drop in 400' of 3/4 inch pvc from home depot and circulate the water through it. Alternatively if you have a sump hole in the basement you could buy a coil of copper tubing and just drop it in there. For those inverter's i would pull the heat sink off and either buy ebay water blocks or go to a plumbing supply and pick up square copper tubing like 1 1/2-2' stuff to mesh up with the flat side of the inverter housing nicely. Basically if you are looking to cool one od two units buy the 10$ pc water blocks off ebay and cheap pump/res combo and a 240mm rad. If you want to cool a bunch of stuff go geothermal and sink that heat into mother earth gaia at her cool and temperate 10 degree celcius dirt temps.

[@williamjordan811]

If the outside shell is detachable, you could have an aluminum block milled out with a water channel inside with water fittings as they use in water cooling blocks in computers, that would could be easily sourced from Newegg, or any computer gaming shop on line,or even better, use a thermo-coupler with a water block on the other side of it, and actually recover some of the heat and turn it back into DC! Cool huh....hehe

[@thebenchmonkey4117]

Use coiled copper tubing, not straight pipe. You can bend it with your hands and would be better cooling. Build it like you would for a cooler in a distiller. More surface area contact with the heat fins on the inverter. Just wrap the inverter in copper and run that to your radiator. You could probably get at least 30 or so degrees less heat. Good experiment.

[@handicapeetpuisapres9919]

why dont you try cooling peltier module? i think it could work.

[@Colaaah]

Would a mass amount of 5mm (3/16) holes drilled all over the hot side. Point the two end fans facing inwards to force the heat out of the drilled holes. And then maybe lay a couple of fans over the drilled area, with the fans facing away to help suck the hot air away from that area. Just a suggestion. 🤔😜😎👍Thoughts?!

[@tomkeyser8384]

Suggestion. Smaller pipe attached to each fin on the side. I think that will make a dramatic change

[@adandridsr]

Where could I find a radiator with fan like used.

[@BlueSardex]

You would have to design the Power Inverter around the water cooling Idea. Meaning the mounting parts to the Piping instead of heat sink. Or designing a Heat sink to have water flow through it. Additionally have to have a Antifreeze like substance to flow through.

[@zippydewdawg5162]

Luv the enthusiasm yes a new sub.. but you need a sink to utilize the copper cooling effect.. even soldered foil will pull the heat... keep on keepin bro it took how many try’s to get tungsten filament right so hey love you spirit😎

[@jamest.5001]

Maybe use smaller tuning but more of it! Like 1/8"-3/16" I.d. tubing. Something that will kinda fit in between the fins. I think the coolant would work better with smaller tubing. keep at it,

[@jbnrusnya_should_be_punished]

Liquid cooling system could save you not only from heat but from the noise too. Sometimes it is the most crucial part of the system.

[@Mr.Unacceptable]

From my water cooling experience. If you use adhesive thermal past and mount a row of old AMD CPU heat sinks in the blue area it would do. Or your way solder a shaped copper plate on the bottom of the pipes. Then thermal adhesive to the top of the Inverter You want as much contact area as you can. Shape the pipes to the top of the Inverter. You really want a flat top to those inverters for water cooling. Wonder if you can get a custom case made in China? Also you could remove the inverter fans and mount server cooling fans on the outside of inverters. 10 bucks for 5 of them. move 10x the air.