How Good Are the OM-1 High Resolution Modes (and other micro four thirds cameras?)

The Olympus Om-1 has some very powerful high-resolution modes. Many other Micro Four Thirds cameras have this as well... but you should know a few things before you buy into the system if you want to shoot these modes a lot.
#olympus #omsystem #om1
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[@digitalspecter]

What I like about my OM1 is the flexibility. It has a slew of features that makes it very much "good enough" in so many situations. I also use Fuji GFX and it does produce excellent results but it's a specialty camera not the swiss army knife like OM1 :). Both have their uses, OM1 just covers a lot more of them.

[@nellatrab]

I agree when used properly in the right situation the HRM's will publish superb results. However, we often make to much of high megapixel files. I have 20 x 30 prints with stunning details and color from 6 mpix camera's made years ago. Remember, we don't pixel peep prints! I also have recently sold a printed a 20 x 30 waterfall landscape for a doctors office at Advent Health, just using the standard 20 mpix sensor from the OM-5 and it looks fantastic and on par with my R5 results...bottom line, you don't need a jar of megapixels when just a handful is very capable. Most will never print larger than 18 x 20 or 24 anyway.

[@anthony-qm3pn]

I find there’s lotta KZbinrs to unfairly compare at this camera to full frame, saying there’s no point to buy the OM-1 because of the same size or larger than other full frame cameras, I disagree with them they have never taken the lens size in consideration. It is the lenses that make the camera system smaller than the full frame system, sure the cameras not perfect, but no camera is, but I feel you’re less likely to leave your micro 43 Cameron in the car or at home because it’s too heavy to carry around compared to a larger format system, I agree with you that OM-1 is the Swiss Army knife of cameras systems.

[@markbielick2313]

For the most part, I disagree with your statement regarding the HHHR mode being unusable in most applications. In my view, the primary reason for high res is panorama and landscape images. I own an OM-1 and a Nikon Z7II. The panoramas shot in HHHR on the OM-1 are equal, and sometimes better than the Nikon Z7II. I have taken hundreds of images with both cameras, and the OM-1 is superior in more than half the images. If there are high winds, then some motion is detected in leaves and waves IF you need longer shutter speeds. If you can use shutter speeds faster than 1/100 sec, the motion is not a factor. One factor you fail to stress is the fantastic noise reduction that is a result of the HHHR mode. Due to the multiple image merging process, most of the noise in the image is eliminated. You end up with MUCH cleaner images. I agree if you are taking pictures of moving people or animals, then the HHHR mode is difficult at best. So if you need high res images of these, then the HHHR mode is not the best option. Another advantage with the OM-1 is I can use the HHHR mode only when I need it. With the Nikon Z7II, every image I take is huge in size, and has unnecessary resolution. I agree that if you want high res in every application possible, then the full frame high megapixel is needed. I am hiking the Grand Canyon next month, and I plan to take both cameras. If I had to choose one to take, I would take the OM-1 every time due to the fantastic versatility of the other mode like focus stacking, ProRes modes.

[@JerredZ]

Awesome, Mark! I love this perspective and you are totally right - if you don't need the megapixels in every frame, it's good-to-go for many applications!

[@jayyocis8643]

Hi I don't recall you using higher ISO. I use High Res Mode at 1600-ISO and it is great. The detail is great, the noise is almost non-existing. By combining the images it fixes noise and sharpness.

[@neilcole3406]

Lesson! Don’t take hi res in the wind! Thanks

[@tkarlmann]

You are not alone in trying to give OM Systems OM-1 a bad rap. You do, grudgingly, concede that it works, but your overall tone is that: "You need to find another camera", and workout more to be able to carry it. I find this rather sad -- for you. Have fun with chasing your multi-gigapixel cameras, because next week, they will inevitably come out with one with even more resolution, and then you will be chasing after that. Good luck with your journey.

[@JerredZ]

Hey, man. Why so bitter? Lower megapixels are great for most people, but my job is currently to photograph and print large photos for murals - 10 feet by 50, 60 and sometimes longer. It's just one of those things - for you, that's great, but belittling others on the internet? I think you should be sad for yourself.

[@tkarlmann]

@@JerredZ I'm quite sure that my Wedding clients will require 'murals' of EACH of the 1400-or-so pictures I take at their Wedding. ... NOT. I'm not bitter, apologies if you took it that way; but really, if all you shoot are 'murals', the why-oh-why do you feel compelled to 'review' m4/3?

[@ericrjennings]

I’d argue the bigger benefit of high res mode is the color accuracy and noise reduction. For the normal person, 20 megapixels is enough. To your point, you have to know what conditions allow you to use those modes.

[@RobertLeeAtYT]

Let me add a niche, but absolutely killer use case of the high res mode - scanning film. It’s both increased spatial and color resolution. It’s also noiseless captures, about 3 stops less than at base ISO. I use a Panasonic S1R for this. So it’s about 200MP - good enough to get everything off of 4x5, LF film. The G9 is good for 80MP, so good for MF film and cheaper to boot.

[@c.augustin]

Fully agreed - exactly what I use my Pen F for. But I would say that the 80 MP hi-res mode is fine for 4x5 too (I can see the film grain of Ektar 100 in my "scans", and more resolution won't help in practice). So who can't afford to go for the S1R (and the necessary high-end macro lens) or something similar, a used E-M1II, Pen F, E-M5III or G9 with the 3.5/30 mm Olympus macro will do (until they know if they stay with 4x5 and actually need more resolution). I might up my game eventually if I go 8x10 at some point, but this isn't clear by now (and then a flat-bed scanner might be a better option).

[@enigmabletchley6936]

Interesting. For web sites and even magazines and newspapers the 20mpx native resolution is enough (and I have a lot of pro work in books to support that statement). When you do the math even at 300dpi you rarely even need all 20mpx for a standard book or magazine and if you do for some reason you can upres quite a bit and still have acceptable image quality. I do want to try the tripod hi-res mode for interior architecture (I haven't done so yet) but at the same time I'll still be taking native resolution modes which will probably be good enough for most clients.

[@jonbarnard7186]

No the high res mode isn't perfect. It's not a replacement for a high megapixel camera, if that's what you need (or you think you need). And no, you can't shoot flowers blowing in the wind. The best thing about it isn't the increased resolution; it's the noise reduction and increased DR. I regularly shoot in pretty dark cathedrals, hand-held at 1/80 sec, f4 and 10,000 iso and up. The resulting 50 megapixel file is noise free, better in fact than I can get with my high megapixel Z camera. But then cathedrals don't move around. These factors, (high DR and decreased noise) however, are just as important as printing large (which hardly anybody ever does anyway). So I kind of think most reviewers are missing the point here. They miss the real advantage of the feature, because of the megapixel wars that has everybody reaching for their wallets.

[@c.augustin]

I see the hi-res modes as a bonus (and for some special use cases), not as a way to get the same results as with a high-res FF camera. I dabbled with the hi-res mode of my Pen F (only the tripod based one available) and got some decent long-exposure night-time shots (great for those ;-)) and flower shots. I ended up using this 80 MP mode only for scanning film - but there it is just gorgeous, as it gives me this option in a camera that I bought for other reasons, and that's great!

[@mr.l6982]

Great points. Would love to see print comparisons up to 20"x30" or 24" x 36". Compare the different settings like using high- res and not using high-res. Also, compare the prints with APS-C and Full frame. That would be quite interesting to see! Can you REALLY tell the difference?

[@boatsandbits7091]

Why do you feel the need to comment "OM Systems" is a weird name? We are interested in your photographic knowledge and comments, not your petty highly subjective opinion on a name!

[@JerredZ]

Well, thanks for that, I guess? Have a good one!

[@dominiclester3232]

Nope, he said “OM digital solutions” so he was not even close!

[@weizenobstmusli8232]

I use the hhhr mode for wide landscape shots. Works very well.

[@benauer3431]

I find the hand held most useful for architectural/museum photography especially in low light conditions and to help mitigate noise in said conditions. As you say, not for moving subjects but very useful for any stationary scene. I use it a lot not for the resolution but for the noise benefit it brings. The HHHR photos easily have 2 stop noise advantage at a given iso relative to a normal shot

[@debsunderman6567]

Hhhr in any movement of flowers is not the best with any camera...just saying

[@stevearita3267]

Hello, I found your channel and subscribed. I'm seriously thinking of getting the OM1 system camera, but still on the fence in regards to M4/3 sensors. I currently own A7R5/A7c cameras, with 12-24 GM F2.8, 24-105 G, and 16-35 PZ, I love the FF format for the details and just rich pictures it takes, that said - I do a lot of hiking (day) trips during the fall and spring and the kit is heavy (I'm an old man by the way!), sooo...the camera sales guy who've I've purchased all of my gear over the years...suggest the OM1, because of it's light and small kit but also because of the computational abilities it offers. Anyway, watching your videos are very helpful and so informative and above all...I appreciate your honesty in how you describe the pros and cons of the OM1. I've been wanting to get into doing more wildlife photography...but can't bring myself to buying the Sony 200-600 long zoom, because of the weight and size, but the OM 100-400 zoom would be pretty manageable and easy to carry around. I forgot to mention, a few three years ago, I did own the Lumix G9 with the trifecta lenses, including the 100-400 leica pano, I decided to trade it in, because I got frustrated with the terrible focusing system, but also found it difficult to get clean photos of wildlife (birds), especially early in the morning...can you provide any thoughts on whether the OM1 would be any better, especially for wildlife early in the morning? Thank you in advance and glad I found your channel, learning a lot about the OM1 camera!

[@JerredZ]

Hello! Well, I think it all depends on what you value - if you want a light kit, then this one fits that right? And the OM1 with the 100-400 is infinitely more portable than the Sony with the 200-600 (which I've used quite a bit too!). Also - I think the OM1 does a pretty good job with birds - I never really used the G9 much, but it the OM1 does a pretty good job of focusing on birds, especially once you get to know it. You may have to fiddle with the settings, but I've seen incredible results from more dedicated birders with the om-1! Have you checked out Flickr - there are some great OM1 bird shots there!

[@mili224]

I am also trying to transition from the heavier Sony A7 (mark III), to the OM-1. In almost all respects I like the OM-1 better. It is a very enjoyable camera to use and has many user-friendly features. One big exception being the hand held high res mode which I'm finding very difficult to get good results. I will occasionally get a sharp image, but for the most part the images are soft. Bummer, because that was one of the main features I was looking for in this camera. Looks like I'll still need to lug around a tripod. 😒

[@photo200]

I usually get good results with the HHHR mode on my OM-1 as long as there isn't much wind, or if there is some wind, that there aren't any close objects where the wind would cause many pixels of motion, but the caveats you mention about shutter speed do help. I've had the best luck with well-lit daylight scenes, though it can work well at slower shutter speeds if there is truly little to no motion. In addition, I've made two other observations that help me calibrate my expectations: 1) For HHHR, in my mind, even relatively good shots don't really qualify as true 50MP images. I've found that if I downsize them to around 30-40MP depending on the image, they look much better, and more usable and easier to process in post, with any artifacts much less visible. That's still a significant increase in resolution over 20MP, but I think 50MP is overselling the mode a bit. I don't often carry a tripod, so I don't have any experience with the tripod mode. 2) The camera automatically has your back, in that it always saves a normal resolution image along with the HHHR image. Of course that's probably not what you're after, since you're using the hi-res mode for a reason, but at least that backup is there without having to do it manually for each HHHR image you take. There have been several times where that came in useful. 3) This isn't the main purpose of this mode, so I'll just mention it in passing, but the HHHR images do have a noise advantage.

[@JerredZ]

Thanks for sharing!!! Good info.

[@earlteigrob9211]

You just need to know what mode works where. it is very simple. I use HHHR a tone for Landscapes but NOT every time. There can not be movement in the scene unless you want to do long exposers and create blur affect.

[@mili224]

Kudos! Finally someone who is giving honest info regarding the OM Systems hand held high res mode, thank you. I received the OM-1 mark II recently and was very surprised and disappointed in the results of the hhhr (hand held high res) mode. I would estimate 9 of 10 images shot with hhhr were soft when viewed at 100%. I went out on a photo shoot with the OM-1 and my Sony A7 full frame. I took dozens of images. For each image I took 3 RAW shots of the same scene; A) hhhr photo with the OM-1. B) standard 20MP shot with the OM-1. C) 24 MP shot with the Sony A7 III full frame. I used lenses with similar specs on both cameras. Almost all of the hhhr photos were considerably softer than the other two. Even the standard 20MP OM-1 photo was sharper than the 50MP OM-1 hhhr. I am referring to stationary areas of the image, not moving leaves or other wind related issues. I think this feature is a selling gimmick and not really a usable feature. Having said this, using the high res mode with a tripod is a different story and should yield excellent results.

[@cheeeeezewizzz]

that's interesting. Hand held high res on the gh6 worked amazingly for me

[@nellatrab]

The older camera (OM1M2) you mention is not on par with the OM1 or the newly released OM1 Mark ll or even the OM5 lX processor from OM Solutions. The TruePic X Dual Quad Core Processor and sensor is more advanced than the Vlll in your camera. On top of that the IBIS is further advanced as well. The HRM is now far superior and can be handheld with stunning outcomes.

[@mili224]

@@nellatrab I own the OM-1 mark II (latest version). It just came out in Feb of 2024. HHHR Images are still soft. I've tried bumping up the shutter speed as well as propping myself up against a sturdy object like a tree, but can't consistently get hi-res shots that are equal in fine detail to a basic 20MP (non-hi-res) image. Noise is greatly improved in the hi-res versions, but not fine detail.

[@humanelements2]

@@mili224 you have to apply sharpening in post to the HHHR RAW files. The detail is there it just has to be brought out. They can take a ridiculous amount of sharpening without looking awful compared to a standard .ORF file.

[@dvbeattie]

@@mili224 in lightroom, the Hi Res images are soft, but if you use OM workspace the free app that OM System provides and sharpen there, you’ll get amazing detail. Caveat - OM Workspace is very slow but works great because it’s the native application for ORF files.

[@DanFarrar]

I will never get tired of deep pixel diving GFX files 😂😂😂. But I honestly think at some point the computational approach will catch up and surpass large sensors. OM-1 is a sweet little rig 🎉

[@gregfeeler6910]

I totally agree that the technology of next generation sensors will reduce any image quality differences between MFT and FF to insignificance. For me and my photography that time has already come and i find that MFT cameras capture beautiful images I can use for any purpose. But, it's this bugaboo about IQ that is the point of this video and the High Res modes on later Olympus, OM System, and Lumix bodies. Jerred, I have to basically agree with your conclusion about the pros and cons of the 50Mp and 80Mp High Res Modes, although at times you come close to damming them with faint praise. We both agree that if the native IQ from the OM-1 (or other High Res capable OM bodies) is not good enough for you, then you shouldn't expect these modes to change that. From my experience and reading of endless review articles, videos, and user posts, it seems to me that far too many people are convinced they need some arbitrary sensor MP capacity for their photos to be of any use at all, when in fact they have never tested that assumption. KZbin has many excellent videos explaining why 5 or 6mp is big enough for virtually any size reproduction use in the real world. If you doubt this statement - as I did - I challenge you to view these with an open mind. Having said that, I find the MFT sensors are NOT the limiting factor in the quality of my images. Therefore, I look at the High Res modes as "icing on the cake" of an already awesome system. Olympus/OMDS & Panasonic (with the GH6) have created a practical and useful - albeit conditional- additional capability based on their best in the world IBIS technology. Just think about how that IBIS technology can move an MFT sensor in 8 or 12 different directions by a fraction of a pixel to create the High Res image, all withing a larger image stabilization situation in many cases. No one else can even come close to this capability. If a larger-than-MFT sensor has a stop of two of noise or dynamic range advantage, will you really get that if you end up shooting at higher ISO levels because your camera body has no IS or IBIS that can reach the 5 to 8 stops of current MFT bodies? So, as an old boss of mine use to say, "It's not that the bear dances poorly, it's that the bear dances at all", and for me this bear can dance Swan Lake - under the right conditions.

[@JerredZ]

Oh , Greg - I agree! I guess I was just trying to put a damper on my enthusiasm in a few of my other videos about the high resolution modes. I still use them a lot - but there were a few people who reached out to me excitedly wanting to get an OM-1 to replace their highher megapixel cameras... which it just won't do unless the conditions are perfect! And I probably should do a video about resolution. you are totally right that 99% of the people who are shooting out there don't need the mega-megapixels! But I seriously do... I have put stuff up on walls - 9 feet tall by 20, 30 feet wide - and with a decent DPI and the demands of closer-than normal viewing distance. In this use case, the extra resolution absolutely helps!

[@marklion315]

Can the high resolution mode be combined with focus stacking?

[@JerredZ]

That is one of the limitations. You can do only one or the other.

[@LebronPhoto1]

For every camera "it all depends". It's all about knowing your camera, advantages and disadvantages, and applying those to whatever conditions and scenes you are photographing.

[@paolopicchel653]

I've been using it for 2 months, I've tried these 2 functions a few times but sometimes it gives me the message shot hires failed and I can't figure out why.

[@JerredZ]

It's because the camera is having problems lining up the frames due to camera shake, perhaps?

[@paolopicchel653]

@@JerredZ Of course this can also be the reason but I think I understood that they do not work with focal lengths greater than 50mm.

[@tntytube]

@@paolopicchel653 Hires modes absolutely work even with 500mm or longer, let alone 50mm. You need to know your subjects though.

[@jacobh5817]

I do fashion/beauty photography for a living and use Hasselblad ane Leica in the studio. Since about a year, I rediscovered M43 and my OM1 now is with me on my personal travels. I absolutely love it and the IQ is fantastic for such a small setup. 20MP is more than enough for almost all personal use cases except the biggest prints. The high-res modes can be a welcome addition in certain circumstances. Best is to find out for yourself what works for you. I use it for close-up flowers in almost windstil conditions and for architecture. Works perfect.

[@crimestoppers1877]

I just found this YT channel while reading about your experiences as a public school teacher. I am now a retired photographer. Most of my work experience has been with film for still images and CCD/CMOS video cameras for motion. Much of my work is in the Near IR wavelengths 750-1725 nm. What format do you recommend for NIR (day or night) photography? In 35 mm film my maximum visible light ISO was 25,000 ( tray develop). I do not need Tele lenses and require high shutter speeds ( > 1/4000 sec).

[@JerredZ]

Thanks for the comment, but I don't know too much about this type of photography - I used to slap an R72 filter on my X100 v and that's about all I do!

[@crimestoppers1877]

Thank you. @@JerredZ

[@fotofx9589]

Nice video Jerred. I’m just wondering how close does the high res mode come to your gfx in studio controlled still life? I know you have both so was just wondering what your thoughts were on that. Can the 80mp come close to the GFX detail? I shoot large products in the studio so I was leaning more towards the GFX but if the OM-1 can come somewhat close to GFX’s 100mp then I might get the OM-1 as It just looks like so much fun to use with its unique computational features.

[@JerredZ]

Hey, sorry for the delay! The Om-1 does surprisingly well at macro with the high resolution modes. BUT - the big catch is that you can't combine the High Res modes with focus stacking... If you are used to manual focus stacking like the old days, though, the 80 megapixel files are great. NOT as good as GFX, but honestly GFX is so slow and cumbersome. The minimum focus distance on the native GFX 120 macro just doesn't come close to how close you can get with M43... (and when you use the close-focus tube it cuts down on quality a bit). Email me if you want to know more (these comments get lost in the shuffle): [e-mail]

[@fotofx9589]

@@JerredZ awesome thanks for the reply. That is very useful info. I will definitely email you if I have any more questions. I’m trying to decide between the OM-1 or X-h2. I think both have its advantages and disadvantages but both look intriguing.

[@JerredZ]

@@fotofx9589 You are right! Both are awesome, but they are quite a bit different. Good luck!

[@fotofx9589]

@@JerredZ thanks 🙏

[@PaulMrPKcom]

Hi, thanks for hostenst review :) The hi-res modes shoudl work fine fir real estate interior photo, nothing moves and tripod can be used. What do you think ?

[@3dtrip870]

I totally agree with your assessment. I wonder if you have compared the EM1 mark iii vs the OM1 high res? My EM1 seems to give soft results in either High-res mode, while my GH6 is extremely tac sharp. I am not sure if something is wrong with my camera? Otherwise the EM1 miii is fantastic.

[@paulthomas8986]

Fantastic review of the high res modes. I have been playing around with these too and have got a mixed bag of results as well, but when the conditions are right it is a very powerful feature. I was able to get a fantastic capture the other day at a local pond after a night of heavy rain. I captured a beautiful high resolution image of a water lily that has become one of my favorites so far. Im still working on a good sharpening approach in lightroom as I have noticed the raw files import very soft. If you have any tips or tricks you have found I think it would make for a great video. I tried OM workspace as well but was not happy with how slow it ran on my computer. I honestly did not like the colors as much either as what Adobe color gives in lightroom. I've really been impressed as well with the high iso results the OM 1 is giving. Really blows away the original EM-1 I started with.

[@JerredZ]

Paul - thanks!!!! I always get so nervous when I do videos like this because I'm like: "Am I even doing it right?" - but I guess the only way we can learn is by learning together - and posting this is part of that process for myself and for others. I'd love to see that photo! And as far as sharpening goes, OM-Workspace does the best job so far, but I HATE opening that program up. It's so slow and cumbersome... but I guess if there's an image I REALLY like, then it's not a big deal to open that up as a first step and open it up. I've not heard much about C1 and some of the other options out there - I need to re-install them so I can give it a try. I'll let you know if I do!

[@Jwitherow1964]

The high resolution mode is not the only reason to buy an om1, it’s just one of many. So if it’s windy don’t use hrs mode

[@markusbolliger1527]

Good arguments. For me, 20 MP are plenty enough for nearly everthing. But who knows - maybe the HRM could become usefol for may landscape photography, sometimes.

[@tomrandall6539]

Here’s a question for you, what are you using to view/edit these OM high res photos? I’ve found artefacts between applications is handled vastly differently.

[@october001]

I haven't googled it yet, but what do you suppose would happen if you tried to shoot the full moon in high res mode???

[@doncooper2344]

For hi-res shots the limiting factor is the read speed of the sensor. You can set your shutter speed to 1/2000s but it takes 1/120s to read the sensor. A global shutter would let you use hi-res with motion.

[@alexmilesg3]

The high resolution mode side advantage really is noise reduction. It's crazy to see pictures with great details and no noise at all. Full frame or better results, with limitations of course but hey...

[@october001]

Better yet, try the hand held hi res from a tripod to shoot the stars! It's like a pseudo astro-tracker!

[@metalmick99]

Thanks for this - I tend to use high-res mode from time to time with landscapes, but always when the image is quite still, and I tend to hedge my bets by taking a standard-res shot as well. You answered a question I have had for a while, when you showed that lovely image of the moss-covered rock in the stream: can the high-res mode (shortcoming) be used to good effect? I believe that Panasonic and Sony have to a degree addressed the issue of subject movement to some extent in their systems, and I expect that subsequent cameras will do an even better job. Thomas Eisl looked at the technical side of the OM-1 feature a short while back and says one advantage of high-res mode is that it increases dynamic range of the image by about 1 stop.

[@narinthip3058]

Great inputs/answers Jerred concerning OM-1 HHHR or HR features. I do use HHHR from time to time when out door for building, landscapes or even wildlife (when conditions are as close to perfect as possible). Not many keepers but when I have one, it is amazing what I can get from this 20MP camera.

[@plenilunio7627]

Thanks for the video. I use the HHHRM very often. 2 Thinks about your video. 1. Small flowers are certainly not the primary goal. I would say for outdoor scenarios here epic landscapes and architecture are the main target and yes if there are trees in the image that can move are a distraction, but there is a easy fix, I use the 20Mpix image that comes with every HHHR Shot and upscale it and blend it in where needed in PS. as this are not the major parts of the image result looks great. 2. I disagree that there is only a little less noise, in my experience NOISE AND DYNAMIC RANGE are at the same level as Medium format. Overall the 50 Mpix OM Image is not as good as medium Format in terms of sharpness but is close enough. And yes it take a bit of extra care

[@stephenedmunds207]

great video, helped me lots

[@stewartlogie]

Very well presented; fair straightforward advice. I have similar experience in the high resolution modes - they are rarely worthwhile.

[@anthony-qm3pn]

The Fujifilm GFX 100 is a wonderful camera way over the budget means of most micro 4/3 users that buy the smaller systems, The reason why I went with a MICRA 4/3 system is that a full frame system was far too expensive for my budget An opportunity to buy open box, heavily discounted Olympus camera came up and I haven’t looked back, Where do you buy fully weather sealed professional gray lenses at a cheaper price than a full frame camera lenses, yes at times I have been frustrated with the low light capability of my camera and thought of going for frame but when I seriously consider buying full frame camera, I looked at the lenses that are pro grade and realize I cannot afford to buy into a full frame system. This is a compromise. I am willing to make, I’ve taking lots of wonderful pictures with my E-M1 original and nobody has complained about the image quality of my work. The only real credit is me.

[@JerredZ]

Absolutely! I LOVE the used lenses that deliver fantastic results for unbelievable prices!

[@ammadoux]

like your honest opinion. as a bird and wildlife shooter never used it. but watching this gave me an idea to use the om 1 for taking pictures of crystals for my chemistry lab work.

[@JerredZ]

Holy cow. That's awesome!!!!! If you get a chance, send me your results! I'd love to see them: [e-mail]

[@david_allen1]

Honest straight-forward appraisal that matches my experience with my OM-1. It's nice to have the capability in the camera, but it has limited uses. I just have to know when it will be effective for me. I can think of one use case that probably would have worked for me a little over a year ago, but I was so new with the camera, I hadn't tried the mode out. The scene was a low-light interior of a wine cellar-turned-restaurant -- a still shot of the owner of a new business who was hosting a launch party there. Hi-rez mode would have given me a shot with lower noise and better detail. Too bad I didn't know that then!

[@JerredZ]

That would have helped right? The handheld stuff is great, and sometimes for no other reason for the noise reduction!

[@theuktoday4233]

Photography is like a game of golf, you don't go out with only one club, you take out a bag full and choose each one for the shot in hand!

[@JerredZ]

LOVE THIS!

[@angeloplayforone]

The high resolution features in OM Systems, Panasonic, Sony and Nikon cameras should be used occasionaly not the norm and only with static subject. This feature should be used in the studio with tripod. Needing more resolution al the time for critical then buy another camera.

[@malikknows3510]

Nice video and some good points. I'm thinking using Topaz AI can also increase resolution, perhaps not in all conditions today, but it is early days for AI.

[@kzr83]

Very well put, Jerred.

[@hunterhart1]

Always making bangers

[@JerredZ]

HAHAHAHAH!!! You are too kind, sir.

[@rockitdude]

Geez Louize, dude. If only you understood what sub-pixel resolution was and how it worked. It not only improves resolution, it reduces noise. And that would apply to any sensor size.