Jig for ripping very narrow stock on the tablesaw

[@GeraldJensen]

A wise man once told me: "If something is too small to cut safely, attach it to something bigger!" Good video and excellent advice.

[@mikewelch3903]

You should edit your comment to reflect the word “wise”.

[@MrPatdeeee]

"Absolutely Brilliant", as they say across the "Pond". But it's true Steve. For I viewed the original yrs ago; when you first showed it. And I thought then and NOW; that was a real "Gem:". And it is. So thank you Steve. For you are truly a "Cut-Above"; when it comes to wood. Because, since you first showed that jig; MANY did the same thing. In Fact "Woodpecker"s has a new "Elite" one. And they did NOT give it away either! Cuz it costs a lot. But yours is still accurate and costs little to make it. And very easy to build. So let's go "Steve Maskery's Jig"! And be happy!

[@freewoodencrosses]

I like the kick switch, I made one for my band saw.

[@magnatimberworksclinthurst6209]

Great idea Steve , very well thought out & helpful. Thanks

[@marc-bernardlevesque5016]

I wish I could demonstrate how my push stick is dangling on my wrist by a rubber band… ready to be used. 😂 it’s the only thing I could show this guy!!!

[@Woodgate425]

Many thanks Steve, excellent as always.

[@howler5000]

Very nice jig! Thanks for the video

[@andrewupson2987]

Nice jig! I think I’d prefer a bandsaw with a resaw type blade and a static fence for making repetitive thin strips like that. Mostly because I wouldn’t have to reset the fence every time, and you aren’t risking kickback like with the table saw. Just any random piece of scrap for a push stick to finish the cut and it won’t matter if it gets chewed up. Or pull it through from the other side. But without a bandsaw available that jig is a great alternative.

[@Marcus_Caius]

Thank you for another fantastic jig. You are such a good teacher and with a *DELICIOUS* accent 🤓 I know, I know what accent??? 😉 I say that cause English is like my third language and you sound very good 👍

[@MCsCreations]

Brilliant, Steve! Nicely done! 😃 I'm going to get my scraps and try to make something similar! Thanks!!! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊 BTW, I just subscribed. 😊

[@DavidR8]

Well done!

[@hwood9783]

So simple, thank you.

[@Ferdy-Perezlara]

Gracias por el tip, algo tan sencillo, muy útil y seguro 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 estoy aprendiendo mucho en su canal

[@SteveMaskery]

Muy contento de escucharlo!

[@sandman2651]

Great jig steve sadly i use the not so safe method of making thin strips as it is to much of a phaff resetting my table saw fence each time but as soon as i find a solution? i will make this jig thanks for sharing.

[@danceswithaardvarks3284]

Very nice. I noticed that there is a hinged top on the auxiliary fence, but it looks like it would hit the knobs below it if it is opened up. Have you got a video that explains it's function?

[@SteveMaskery]

LOL! No. it doesn't foul the knobs. It is simply a storage box. It holds my arbor spanner, Allen key, other arbor (I have 30mm and 5/8"), other riving knife and stuff like that. Including a telescopic magnet for when I drop a riving knife screw inside the sawdust-ridden inside of my saw... Well-spotted though! :)

[@danceswithaardvarks3284]

Dooooooh🤦‍♂ Good use of space. lol

[@anthonyshaw7251]

Hi Steve, got a silly question to ask, I’ve always used hand saws & just bought a bench saw, & getting ideas for jigs etc, your auxiliary fence in this video, (ps I too noticed the hinges, another great idea), but is it needed, I ask with upmost respect, that’s a brilliant idea tacking one piece to another to cut thin strips, but if you do that running along the original fence, you have wide space for your push stick anyway, or am I missing something? Thanks in advance.

[@mymido4322]

Very clever by using double tape 🤔👏👏👏👍😆 cheer 🙏

[@danlopretto7222]

Is that the off-cut rule 📏 from the track-saw setup sticks? 😂

[@SteveMaskery]

Well not that particular one, this is much older, but yes, from a similar jig - probably its predecessor!

[@JPNKobe]

Bonita idea pero eso es para cualquier aficionado que realice pocos cortes; para quienes trabajamos bastante con esas piezas este método no es apropiado porque hace perder mucho tiempo habiendo métodos más prácticos y rápidos.

[@b1j]

You need to move the fence each time. Seems there’d be some slight variation in cut thickness from cinching the work up to that tiny jig?

[@SteveMaskery]

I suppose that depends on what you mean by "slight". It's a sawn surface, so if it going to be seen it will need sanding anyway. In practice, I've not noticed any significant variation at all, I just clamp up the fence to the same degree of snugness every time and all is well.

[@basketballjones6782]

What are these miller meters to which you refer?

[@maurieknight5120]

Millimetres is metric. Uses multiples of 10 to measure. 6mm =1/4inch, 8mm =5/16, 10mm =3/8, 12mm =1/2 inch, 25mm =1inch 39.37in =1000mm or 1metre. Much easier to use than 1/16, 1/8 increments.

[@way2go-fh4lc]

Don't rely on this method if you want precise thickness of your strips; It just DOES NOT WORK; Invariably when you move the fence each time to make another cut, you will not get the exact position each time to create the same thickness of the pieces. Any woodworker will have experienced this when trying to cut identical slats using this method; You will either move the fence too tight or too loose against the stop, it will just be luck if you get it exact. This idea will work if you cut a length long enough that you can cut into shorter lengths to complete your project. But if you want identical repetative short pieces, then this won't work; to cut it exact each time the timber piece you need has to pass between the saw blade and the fence and not on the outside of the sawblade. To achieve this, you need to have a jig or method where the fence remains constant to the blade and once that is set up you will get identical thickness of your pieces. To prevent damage to your table saw fence, you need a sacrificial fence attached to the original fence ( Flat piece of mdf or ply will do the job) you can attach it simply with clamps or double sided tape, and then you can move the fence with the sacrificial board attached as close to the saw blade as you wish; and of course, if you happen to place the fence too close to the blade, it is only the sacrificial board that will be damaged; Once you set up your fence to the right distance from the blade, you can repeatedly cut exact thickness of timber every time. It is essential that when attaching the sacrificial board to the fence that it actuall contacts the table saw top, leaving zero clearance betwee the top of the table and the bottom of the fence; this will prevent thin strips from slipping under the fence as it is cut. The method described in this video will work for you if it is not quintessential that each piece is identical and in some cases this is probably okay, near enough is good enough; but for accurate, identical work; this method is not good enough unless you want to do a heap of sanding to get them to the same dimension.

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

You obviously have to much time on your hands. It’s call a thin rip jig and they are spot on if you haven’t got anything nice to say don’t say it and don’t watch it

[@nee3029]

Some people just can't listen Why the thin strip should not run between the saw blade and the fence.Let him have his joy when the kickback slams the strip into his face. On the other hand, such comments are always written by people who just watch videos without doing anything themselves 😜

[@peterbarlow8912]

It probably doesn’t matter how consistent you are if keeping them booked and laminating them back together in that order