Jigs: Fretboard

[@Nomadboatbuilding]

Your poor-man's laser trick is brilliant Brian. I've never seen that before. Nice work!

[@stormman8393]

Great video Brian, very, very useful and informative

[@robinmarwick1982]

Thanks Brian ...excellent video . I like the tip using the light to allign the template blank...thanks.

[@CyrusTabery]

Wow, thanks Brian, excellent teaching and the quality of your videos is very very high. Thanks for all the effort you put into your videos.

[@johnnypk1963]

Thanks for the vid. As well for explaining how u make the original template. Very clever using light

[@Ibaneddie76]

Nice job on that jig sir.

[@jeffdeluca1153]

Thx for sharing and helping to demystify guitar building

[@Johan_solo]

Great videos! Your a wonderful teacher.

[@fusion-music]

Thanks for a first class video.

[@douglas71322]

Hi. Very accurate and well built jig. Related to the slots depth, I believe we will lose some thickness of the fingerboard on the sides after raduis sanding. So would you need to deepen the slots after the radius sanding? (So the frets can seat properly) Thx a lot.

[@MyRocknroll23]

Will be giving this jig a go next guitar i build thanks

[@edadpops1709]

I believe every new builder should educate themselves and layout a fretboard using the rule of 18( 17.817) this will show you that accuracy is so important.it cant be close it has to be rigt on the money.

[@kelvingriffiths8036]

You can also use a pre-slotted fingerboard as a jig, knowing full well that the slots are accurate. You can then cut a piece of Ply in the same way as you used the jig. after that, you have a properly cut jig for the price of a slotted fretboard. It's just another way to do it and get the same end result. Keep up the good work. Regards, K

[@MrPhr0sty]

When you radius the fret board, wouldn't you loose the depth on the sides? It would then only be correct then in the center.

[@alext9067]

Some of these videos are kind of sketchy. You were right to think about all this. sometimes these guys make no sense.

[@Ibaneddie76]

Yes you do lose some of the slot depth after you put the radius on the board but remember after you trim the board to fit the neck you will get most of it back then you just use the fret saw and do some touch up cuts if need be. I personally use a fret saw blade ob my table saw with a crosscut sled in conjunction with a fret slot template and index pin on the back support of the sled. You can purchase the fret slot templates in all the popular scale lengths, the saw blade and the pin from StewMac or LMII. It's the way to go if you are doing any kind of production or just want the most accurate way to cut slots. Cutting them by hand is perfectly fine you just need to make sure you are not leaning or twisting the saw when cutting or you will get slots that are sloppy or too wide.

[@henseleric]

after you've radiused the board, simply use the hand-saw with the depth attachment he shows in the video to deepen the slots at the edges.

[@TheLinkIsLost]

Why did you stop making videos?

[@GONZOFAM7]

binge watching your videos

[@walterrider9600]

thank you

[@Learnwoodwork]

I get asked a lot of questions about jigs and how I lay out musical instruments, so in the next few videos I'll be covering the basics of those. Feel free to ask more questions in the comments below, or if you have a different technique or related resource.