Jigs: Sharpen Dewalt DW733 Planer Blades

Jigs: Sharpen Dewalt DW733 Planer Blades
In this video I show how to sharpen Dewalt DW733 planer blades. I make a Planer Sharpening Jig on the table saw that I then use to sharpen a two blade Dewalt Planner.
See this video by smalltown442 for another way of making this same style jig.
kzbin.info/www/bejne/qX3Mn2Sop6qCqKs
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Todd Fipps
P.O. Box 116450
Carrollton, TX 75011
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DISCLAIMER
READ THIS: I accept no responsibility or liability for any injuries or accidents you may have if you attempt the things that I do. The videos on this channel are intended for entertainment purposes only. Power tools can be extremely dangerous. You should attempt what you feel comfortable and safe doing. Seek professional guidance if you are unsure of the safe way to proceed. Read your tools owner’s manuals completely and make sure you understand those manuals before you use the power tools. Your safety is your responsibility.
Thank You.
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[@ziggydog24]

Really enjoyed watching your vid. Have made a similar one a few years ago and just wanted to see if anyone else was doing similar sharpening planer blades. So tomorrow its sharpening planer blades. Thanks again from England on the North East Coast. Take care and will look back again. Cheers Peter

[@bigtrout]

My blades need it & I had no idea how so thanks for the vid. One tip for anyone interested. If anyone uses that wet/dry SiC paper to sharpen or polish any steel, use it with WD40 as a lube. Paper will last longer, not clog, and works faster.

[@arcarioandsons]

I really appreciate you taking the time to edit out you unscrewing stuff, it's amazing how many people don't do that and when you're going through a bunch of these videos back to back that gets super annoying so this video was an absolute joy to watch!

[@TLFWorks]

I appreciate that! -Todd

[@ypaulbrown]

you got that right.....

[@wess7390]

Thanks for putting this up. I got out my DW733 after 20 years of not using it last night. After putting some lube on it as elevation was stiff, it still did the job. Recently I learned that the gent that sharpened my band saw blades and my jointer and planer knifes went out of business so that option is off the table. I've done the scary sharp thing with silicon carbide sand paper glued to plate glass, I can see that this will work, especially if a small micro bevel is incorporated. I'll give this a try when my current knives are dull.

[@ATAsgard1]

FYI - the Planer Manual lists the blade angle at 42 degrees. So if you're trying to maintain that angle, you'll want to cut the wood slots to a 48 degree angle.

[@craigmarti]

I am not sure that I am following how you got to 48. Can you explain? Why wouldn't it just be a 42 degree cut on the slot?

[@ATAsgard1]

@@craigmarti I think the angle of the cut needs to be the complement of the angle on the blade. So if the angle on the blade was 30, you'd need a 60 degree cut. I could be wrong - but the main point is the blade angle isn't 45 based on the manual.

[@ATAsgard1]

@@craigmarti I had recently watched this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pobSdoOdmNaIfMU

[@craigmarti]

@@ATAsgard1 Thanks a lot! That makes a lot of sense. I had my angles backwards and wasn't calculating the compliment. Appreciate your reply.

[@ryanstephens9145]

90 minus 48 =42.

[@witolddewor8938]

I Just did it. I was terrified, scared and full of fear, because i can not afford the new blades, but i did it. I used the wetstones, which i use for my handplanes. It works now like miracle. Thank you very much for this video - you just made me very, very happy... Keep up the good work!!!

[@TLFWorks]

Great job! Thanks for watching and letting us know that it worked for you. -Todd

[@johnstroh1408]

Your jig is just what I've been looking for! Thank you!

[@LyndasDiamonds]

Great tutorial. I passed it on to my husband cause he could probably use this.

[@fuddly123]

I have the same planer and used your idea , worked perfect Thank you!!!!

[@BrianHSC]

Best idea I've seen so far. Many other videos over think it too much.

[@georgegri]

Thank you! This was definitely helpful and really liked your idea for the jig!

[@mlangfordcamper]

My man you are truly a wood master thank you for the video

[@TLFWorks]

Thank you for watching.

[@scottsena6760]

Thanks for your simple and concise tutorial. My Son just picked us up a nice used DW733 I guess and needed to show up with some knowledge to get it tuned and ready. After reading about this now older tool? It seems to be a basic good planer and looking forward to it’s use. Going to be running planers back to back on a job (for a moderate volume of work) and the stability of cutting performance, and the easy tricks for using this planer should have it being kept for final passes and slightly better grades of work within the project. (Recycled VG old growth....metal detector in hand!)

[@mountainviewturning5319]

Very nice I made a jig like that 25 years ago I just used 120 grid on belt sander

[@aleklysikov8791]

Thank you for showing video!! I need today! You have a great time! Stay more healthy!

[@ypaulbrown]

thanks Mr TLF...cheers from Florida.....Paul

[@markbryan7981]

Wow thanks for this video... Mine been burning wood and I new there was something wrong with the blade... I actually thought I needed to re-adjust it... Anyway I will be attempting this tomorrow or the next day... Again, thanks for the video 👍

[@rodc4334]

Wow, pretty slick! I have been putting this off not sure how to proceed. My blades are a mess. But this looks very easy and sure handed. I love the use of painters tape - I use it all the time for all sorts of things in the shop! Thanks!

[@TLFWorks]

Glad I could help! - Todd

[@azurplex]

Nice job. The only thing I would add would be to verify the back of the blade is flat with no nicks by using 600 or higher wet sandpaper on a flat surface, like glass. Then measure and match the factory bevel angle in your jig to avoid that new bevel angle.

[@mountainviewturning5319]

Great video

[@RossMarsden]

I think those blades are angled at 42°, not 45°. Well, that is the angle on my Ryobi-Ozito-Makita-type thicknesser.

[@misfitramone]

Great idea! I'm going to make a big for my planner knives and jointer knives tomorrow! I thinkthe only thing I'll try different is getting the knives as deep as I can in the wood so it's just barley sticking out though so I can just rub my diamond stone against them.

[@IrishChippy]

Hi Todd. Happy Easter. Saw you over in Don's channel. My Makita's blades are superb but cannot be sharpened. On the bright side, they are reversible (ie, they are double bladed). Your jig is a great idea. Also the use of the tape to make a minute adjustment to the dados is something I never seen before

[@TLFWorks]

Thanks Chippy. Happy Easter. I have also seen people use playing cards, but I don't remember where.

[@momostayzanko2078]

Genius Thanks alot

[@bonenfant96]

Smart man !

[@koconnor1963]

Thank you for the tip

[@TLFWorks]

You bet! Todd

[@grahamwyatt8766]

Masking tape. Genius.

[@Hengry-hn7rb]

Graham Wyatt yes sir my friend!👍🏻

[@tonydeleo3642]

I have found that the best way to sharpen is to use sandpaper glued to a sheet of heavy glass (3/16 or thicker). This way, the sandpaper stays in place and provides you with a perfectly flat surface. If you get a larger piece of glass, you can use more than one sheet of sandpaper. I us 3M spray contact cement, holds great and rather easy to clean off with a razor scraper.

[@TLFWorks]

Tony. This is great info. I just need to figure out how and where to store that glass when not in use.

[@tonydeleo3642]

The best way to store the glass is to make a cardboard "envelop" large enough to slip the glass into it and stand on its edge off in a corner. Good idea to put a small piece of wood under the glass while storing vertically, especially if you have concrete floors.

[@1dogpobo]

or a piece of granite

[@rbwoodwork1890]

@@TLFWorks go to a counter top shop and pickup a piece of stone about 12 x 16. Super flat, heavy won’t move or break like glass. Just a thought.

[@KevinCoop1]

I have the same Dw733. Just got back from changing the blades for the first time. I don't use it every day. I also have a shopsmith planer. I thought you were going to potato peel your fingers in the middle portion of the diamond sharpening. My planer came with second set of blades, but I'm going to make a jig like you did now. If I may make a suggestion, you could make another one that the blades will be narrower than the diamond plate and turn over like with the sand paper. Thank you for the video!

[@TLFWorks]

I may try that suggestion soon. Thanks!

[@MrSnookerballs]

not just the bevel to sharpen but need to lightly rub the back face on a flat surface to remove any burr.

[@TLFWorks]

Yes. I should have mentioned that. Thanks -Todd

[@ivandrimal5783]

I also have a DeWalt 733 only version 2, it is the same only the holes in the planer knife are different in including its clamp. I sharpened the planing knives in the same way as in the video, but I don't like that you didn't use the entire width of the prism, which means that the knives are quite close to each other and there is not enough stability when grinding. I solved it the same way, only the holes for inserting the planing knives are much further apart, and thus I achieved much greater stability and precision when grinding by hand. But I am making an electric planer knife grinder out of an old two-disc grinder using a special cup wheel for HSS material. The focus should be much better, I am finishing up on a large diamond plate with oil. Good luck.

[@freewoodencrosses]

I made one of these for my dw733 planer many years ago, but I drilled 2 small holes on each side of the board and put screws in it to hold the blades still . Otherwise I do it just like you did.

[@TLFWorks]

That is a great improvement. I will be adding that to my jig. Thanks for the idea.

[@peteoversby5151]

Hi thank you for your video very interesting, can you help me though, I purchased this until recently and I’m feeling it is just not working well, I have done nothing with it other than unboxing it I’m finding that that forcing the wood through the machine rather than the machine pulling it through, also there seems to be a step from the feeder plat to the when the blades hit the edge of the wood do you know why this would be please

[@gerarddrapeau359]

nice video...thanks.

[@TLFWorks]

Most welcome! -Todd

[@garyberg3075]

Good video very good info I have the same planner .I changed the blades and now I am surprised to find how quiet it runs. I am recently retired and am dialing in my shop

[@TLFWorks]

Thank you, Gary -Todd

[@JT-mo3yd]

Nice video. Thx. About the nick you want to get rid of, just reverse the blades and it will cancel it out.

[@tdmmcl1532]

excellent!!! bravo....just saved many of us. about 40-60 bucks at the big box store. I'll be doing this tomorrow morning on a project involving really long wide planks of walnut and I've already noticed the blades are really dull and overworked from previous projects over the years. other notes: their are two different "schools of thought" on how to edge sharpen these blades, each with their own pro's and cons of making a different angle to the retuning of the blades.... a. An "edge set" tune (as demonstrated in this video) s going to make the cutting edge more prone to chipping and distortion under load. The edge will not last as long. that's the downside. It presents far less mass of metal at the work. Simple as that. The upside? It takes far less effort to set a great cutting edge when polishing.... In using the method, one is advised to adjust the planer so that it does far less work on each pass to prevent ruining that edge because it WILL get dull rapidly if you work it the same way as the standard sharpened angle. That is one way to prevent it from dulling. b. A "full set" tune (not demonstrated here) is to actually track the original sharpened angle. The downside is of course, it takes far longer to get that entire surface of metal back to a clean sharpened flat plane. The upside is you are re-creating the same exact cut dynamics for the entire system so you really do not have to be concerned about run speed, and standard depth cut "attacks". As in the "edge set" tune above, however, it will be noticed that there will be a very small amount of material that is removed from the blade, and thus the cut depth gauge isn't as precise.

[@TLFWorks]

Thank you for the great comment.-Todd

[@martinschaffmeir7729]

My 733 has a locking device-lever on the right hand side that engages after the tool tray is removed. Its easily disengaged

[@bigd2117]

Wish you would have shown how the blade adjustment tools worked... the 2 plastic tools for setting the blades.

[@Grape99909]

This video just helped me remove and sharpen my blades for the first time, thx! :-) Note that i used a tormek wet stone grinding wheel. I marked the cove on the blade with red marker. They actually came out better than when new... Nice profile. Anyways, thanks for the knowledge and inspiration. Cheers.

[@TLFWorks]

Glad it helped!

[@benzampino5248]

To take out the Knicks I used my floor model belt sander from there I used a 1200 Diamond stone to various wet dry sandpaper up to 2500

[@martinnovotny9066]

Hi, I have a few questions. I need advice. I am considering the purchase of Dewalt DW733 (power 1800W). I have a Fieldmann 4020Bi gasoline generator available (max power 2000W, constant power 1600W). Will it run and work with that generator? Thank you very much. Martin

[@fasteddie1241]

Exact right idea. 30 degrees is probably the right angle, though. Although someone said per your manual 42 degrees is correct. 30 is for my Ryobi 10 inch machine

[@DeltaSoftAustralia]

30 degree is the exact angle for my Ryobi blade as well. I think micro bevel will dull after a few passes, given the speed and stress the blade had to put up with. But setting table saw blade to exactly at 30 degrees can also be a challenge. I will try this method soon.

[@rek550]

The last time I took my blades in to get sharpened it cost me $15. This was at least 10 years ago. They charge $1/inch now. 2 times 12.5 = $25. I ordered a brand new set off the A place for $28 plus tax. I'm going to try your sharpening technique. (Manual definitely says 42 deg for sharpening angle.)

[@Hengry-hn7rb]

Ahh yes sir can I buy your jig ? Is for my collection.🙄 By the way liked your video gave it a thumbs up. 👍🏻

[@TLFWorks]

Rafael; Thank you for watching and giving me a thumbs up. I appreciate that greatly. I am sorry, but at this time, I do not have any jigs for sale. Thanks again!

[@mksmks2630]

i bought Dewalt 733 and i dont know how leveling two or more pieces with thickness and size defferent .. any 1 help me plz

[@das250250]

Are we comfortable with rubbing the knives non uniformerly with the diamond blade as opposed to running the blade onto a grit base evenly covering the blade at all times? Don't we get an uneven blade height ?

[@luciano4841]

Obrigado por explicar, quando ao erro de ângulo eu explico, No manual de instruções o ângulo das lâminas está indicado como 42º, logo os cortes precisariam ser feitos em ângulo de 48º.

[@TLFWorks]

114/5000 Não pensei em olhar o manual sobre o ângulo. Eu apenas usei uma estimativa e depois reformulei para esse ângulo.

[@luciano4841]

@@TLFWorks É eu estava verificando minhas lâminas ontem enquanto limpava meus equipamentos e bateu a curiosidade sobre o ângulo. Na verdade pode ser qualquer ângulo, basta ter a consciência de que a relação durabilidade x qualidade de corte são inversamente proporcionais, quanto mais agudo melhor o corte e maior a frequência de afiações. pelo ângulo estar em 45º a maquina faz mais força, mas não saberia exatamente o quando a mais ela sofre. Uma coisa é certa, melhor uma lâmina bem afiada em 45º graus do que uma lâmina em 42º cega haha.

[@geoffcrisp5896]

While this works the manufacturers specification for the blade angle is 42deg not 45 deg. This is why there is a shiny edge. It is also better to hollow grind these blades for best performance. Better than having dull blades though.

[@user-vz8pb2fk5d]

Someone said the manuel says 42 degrees is the angle of the blades for dewalt 733.

[@Felipera_]

I believe if you glue a magnet somewhere it can hold the blade in its place 🤔

[@TLFWorks]

Sounds like a gerat idea. Thanks - Todd

[@Free76Thinker]

Hello, thanks for the video. I just bought this very unit used and found its missing the adjustment chain. I cannot find any documentation on how it is routed with the center shaft that has the two sprockets. There is no chains available online either they are all discontinued so I plan to buy a whole length of chain locally and make my own. Can you supply me a pic of the bottom under the cover (if you have it) of the chain? Thanks.

[@TLFWorks]

Thanks for watching. I don't have any photos of that part of the machine and I have loaned it to a friend so I can't take any right now. -Todd

[@Free76Thinker]

@@TLFWorks I may have figured it out. I believe the center bracket with the two sprockets acts as a tensioner.

[@allenfenimore9912]

Is there a reason you don’t show the magnet placement

[@boomblooka]

Interesting idea. Thanks for posting. I'm looking at the DW733 manual and it says to sharpen the knives to 42 degrees (not 45).

[@TLFWorks]

Thank you for watching.I made the angle 45 because it is easy and hopefully not affecting the cut of the blade. I think I was correct in my thoughts on this. If I set the angle of my saw to 42 degrees then the apposing angle created that would have been on the blades is 48 and not 42. so I took the easy way out.

[@mikecarroll3132]

@@TLFWorks Your angle would be correct if you cut the fixture board on the edge instead of the flat. See what mean? Stand the 2x4 on it's side and run it thru the saw. My little Makita planer has 40 degree cutting edges, so I set my saw to that and cut the slots sideways!

[@TLFWorks]

@@mikecarroll3132 That makes sense to me. Thank you Mike!!!

[@stevecahill9106]

@@mikecarroll3132 not sure what you mean cut the slots sideways. Is not 45 degrees going to be 45 degrees, no matter what side you cut the angle on?

[@mikecarroll3132]

@@stevecahill9106 if your table saw can only go to 45 degrees you can't make the 50 degree cut on the 4" side. Set your saw yo 40 and run the 2" edge on the saw table. Rotates to 50 on the flat side. Clear as mud? 😂

[@R3d_Wolf1983]

Hello, your model is type 1, correct ?

[@superchile9640]

Wondering how flat the blades came out. I would think you'd run the stone once across in an even pass and then repeat.

[@superchile9640]

Of course any improvement is an improvement!

[@TLFWorks]

You are most certainly correct, but they were in such bad shape that I just wanted the 200 times improvement.

[@1d2a3ve41951]

I found that the angle of the blade can be made shallower, as the saw cut needs to be more than 45 degrees, by pressing in to the inner surface cut with a thin strip of steel, thin enough to push the blade outwards enough to get the right angle on the blade

[@TLFWorks]

Dave: That is good info. Thanks. -Todd

[@leerubino3471]

So the edge of the knives stick out how far past the face of the 2x4

[@TLFWorks]

It doesn't matter as long as they both stick out the same amount. Thanks for watching. - Todd

[@Walkercolt1]

The BEST way to sharpen DeWalt DW733 blades is with SHELIX blades! All you can do with the factory blades is put MORE LIPSTICK on a PIG! Sharpening factory blades removes the induction surface hardening (like on today's lawnmower blades) and without quality steel (which isn't MADE today) they'll dull in a dozen boards. Why do YOU think it's so hard to sharpen bench planes and chisels today??? My GREAT-Grandpaw Rogers was a late 1800's to 1949 REAL carpenter. He gave me his 1887 Disston rip and crosscut hand saws and FOUR Bailey bench planes. I can sharpen the irons of the Bailey's sharp enough to SHAVE MY FACE WITH! Until three years ago, I used a straight razor daily since I was 15 years-old, so I KNOW how to sharpen GOOD STEEL. I turned 70 the 2nd of December, 2023. My 1968 Otto Fromme razor I sold last month on Fee-Pay for $200-it cost $15 WITH the strop. My doctor forbid me to use a straight razor when he came into my hospital room and I was shaving with it "by Braille"( no mirror) after a major stroke. (I couldn't feed myself or write with my shaving hand yet!) The grand-son of my oooold mower man still sharpens GOOD mower blades, but you will ONLY get them from HIM or one other mower shop in Tulsa County, and not for $20, they're $75, and he can't keep them in-stock for the yard service companies.

[@ivandrimal5783]

I was looking at the manual, I was somehow confused by your 45 degrees, the manual says that knives on the DeWalt 733 are sharpened at 42 degrees. So I don't know if you missed it, or if you grind 45 degrees according to your own experience. Instructions page 10 - sharpening knives. Or are you just doing a facet?

[@KevinCoop1]

If you don't mind me asking, how bad is snipe on yours?

[@TLFWorks]

It is not great. When I start to get close to my thickness, I will run longer sacrificial pieces thru on each sie on my actual piece so the sacrificial board gets the snipe .

[@KevinCoop1]

TLF Works Thanks. Mine has very tiny amount. I hand plane afterward to get rid of it.

[@hansborgdesing]

I Saw the Pieces to Long and cut the Snipes of

[@KevinCoop1]

Mark Howell Thanks Mark! If mine gets bad, I will try that! Respectfully, Kevin

[@fordguyfordguy]

so the sandpaper was a failure and we need to use diamond stones?

[@rodc4334]

I have gone to sandpaper for most of my sharpening. And flattening - even my #6 hand plane which is a beast. The trick is to use a coarse enough first grit to remove all the nicks and get the bevel set without wasting too much time, then move up no more than 50% each step. So you might start at 220, then 320, 500, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000. Not sure you need 1500, 2000 for this, but that is what I used on chisels and hand plane irons. Each step goes more quickly that the previous step. So getting all the nicks out may take a while, but after that it goes pretty quickly.

[@bigtonutz]

you need to make a jig to hold multiple stones..... etc etc

[@_Common_Logic_]

"Bench-top flat" is good, but planer blades could use a but more precision... I'd suggest taping your carbide paper to a sheet of glass placed on the bench-top... I used to refurbish old Harley clutch plates this way, and it's as close to a razor sharp machined finish as you'll get. As for free handing and uneven pressure of the narrow stones... Might want to skip that part and let patience prevail. :-)

[@jean-christophebourbon7959]

Bonjour, Je suis très content du travail effectué par le rabot DW733 pour mon usage occasionnel. Malheureusement il est tombé en panne au bout de 3 ans et 2 mois. Juste après la fin de garantie... 337€ de réparation pour inducteur + condensateur quel dommage! Surtout que Dewalt refuse de faire un geste face à mon désagrément. D'autres expériences de ce genre avec la marque?

[@leerubino3471]

If you dont have diamond stones, just sandpaper will do?

[@teofannazare4473]

I suppose it will do. Paul Sellers presents a method of sharpening using abrasive paper placed on a piece of glass (for flatness). He uses that method for sharpening chisels, but I'm sure it would also work for planer blades. You should check out his video, "Preparing and sharpening a woodworking chisel". All of his content is worth watching. He focuses mainly on hand tools but makes woodworking seem so simple and pleasant. Hope this helps!

[@danpro1128]

You left out the most important part where the blade gads go And how they set

[@jon__doe]

weighing the time vs the $27 for new blades...

[@AlesZvolanek]

If you do not flat sharpen the back side of your knives (to get rid of the "thing" i don't know how its called in english) it will never work.

[@michaelheurkens4538]

That "thing" you are referring to is called a burr. And yes, it does need to be removed. Cheers.

[@genekatauskas6904]

See the other guy,never sharpen when you have nicks. Spend the 15$ for New