JNGE MPPT Solar Charge Controller - Cheap or Awesome? Both?

[@jackiedines5229]

I purchased this controller, a short while ago and the first comment I will make is that the "warranty" is now only 12 months. Second comment is that it does not come with any connectivity, you have to buy that separate, disappointing as I did not figure that out when reading their sales pitch. What you described in the way of connectivity was EXACTLY what I needed, to remotely manage my battery or at least be able to see if all is ok, when I am not there. Plus they had different capacity models available. I read up on what it was supposed to be capable of and figured out that I could run two 12v 200watt 10amp solar panels in series, (24v) and the controller would identify the voltage of my battery (12v) and charge it accordingly. From the start I had all sorts of stuff flashing, Uover, Error light and no PV icon, which I realised meant it would not be doing any charging and upon reading the troubleshooting section it seemed that the message was “overvoltage protection point was lower than the highest charging range”. So I set about trying to set up the charging parameters, but nothing I did would get it to stop the errors. No matter how many times I tried to adjust any of the voltage parameters including turning it on and off a few times and letting it sit for a while just in case the capacitors were keeping some sort of memory, no voltage parameters would change I would put in the numbers I wanted press the set button but they just went back to where they were, which at that time were in the individual lipo4 battery cell range 3.2 volts. But it could not read the individual cells of course, it should only see the total voltage of the battery, but it is telling me 3.2v? So with Lipo4 selected as the battery type it thinks the battery is only 3.2v really? This was with the two PV panels connected in series. Then I read the troubleshoot bit about "reduce the number of PV arrays connected in series" right, so it looks like I cannot connect two panels in series. WOW did I get that wrong? It refers to section 3.1 but in there the only thing I can see that may have something to do with the problem is at No7 it says, “The installed battery pack should match the controller charging voltage and the recommended charging current range.” Hmm I am not sure exactly what that means - given that it also says in the product features that “12v/24v/48v battery system automatic identification function” I cannot see anywhere where they say you cannot series connect the PV panels. Ok so I disconnected one panel and at least I got rid of the flashing red light, but still had the first error (Uover) and while the controller gave a reading of 13.1v it would NOT allow me to change any voltage parameters, it was still set to LIpo4 but it is determined that I am running a 24v system which is why I am getting the Uover error. I am guessing that is because when I first connected it, it was seeing 24v from the PV panels, even though the PV icon was not lit, and which did make me recheck that the panels were putting out voltage and amps, which they were doing. So I then decided to try just one panel. This at least got the PV icon to show, Volts still read 13.1 but the Uover error was still there. Now I have the task of trying to communicate with them to see if there is anything they can do or suggest to try to fix the thing without sending it back to China which would be far too expensive. I have installed whatsapp just to try to contact them, but I have not had any luck getting their number to work. Might be a hundred and sixty bucks down the toilet! Worse still where to from here?

[@mohammednovalija]

I don't know how to say this in a way that doesn't cause you to be offended , and I most likely would not say it to your face , but , I LOVE your round head , it just looks cute and adorable and just adds to the beauty of your tapes.

[@peterpetersen6024]

Here are my two thoughts: a) The manual says the PV panel open circuit input voltage range for a 12V battery system is 20V～100V. This might be the cause, why it is not working with a 40W Panel. What is the open circuit voltage of the 40W panel? b) The charge controller seems constantly measuring the battery voltage 0.3V to low while charging. Well, this is 0.075V per cell in your setup. It's not so dramatic. Now think about a real world setup with fuses, main battery-breaker, current-shunt, longer wires. You easily get 0.3V voltage drop between charge-controller and battery, and the controller is taking this in account and will approache the real voltage of the battery. If you really want accurate voltage measuring you need a controller with a separate battery-voltage sense input. Your other system is a BMS, sits direkt on the battery and does not need to take a voltage drop in account.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks for your comment Peter. a) the 40W panels have a Box of 22V b) in a 12V system with LFP batteries 0.3V could be the difference between 40% SoC and 90% SoC. That's not acceptable. The controller could compensate for possible cable loses but this would be very hard to factor in as it depends on cables size and length as well as actual current. I think it's just the cheap AD converter they are using which has a big tolerance.

[@peterpetersen6024]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Thanx for your answer. You may be right about a cheap AD, which is more calibrated/accurate for a 24V or 48V system. But let me clearify my point: As we know, a 12V battery-system comes with higher currents, than a 24V or 48V system at same watts. Let me assume you will charge the battery with 30A, and let me assume you're using a 1kW 230V inverter to discharge/use the energy. 1000W / 12V ~ 80A. If only the main battery breaker/fuse has an resistance of 1mOhm (which is a good value), you get a varying voltage drop from +30mV to -80mV, and so an error in measuring at the charge controller. If you want to go that accurate you try to, you need a voltage sensor directly at the battery, because of the 12v and corresponding high currents. Because of this I said the 0.3v offset of the JNGE charger is not as bad, as it seems at first glance. It may compensate it little bit the voltage drop at other components when used under load. Even if it is not intended by the manufacturer. ;-)

[@EddywaKenya]

As long as the mppt is working correctly within the specified voltage setting of your battery you can input any wattage from the solar as long as you dont exceed the mppt limits.

[@supashark72]

I'm enjoying this series, I'm on my 2nd build now. Still raining here too on the top of the hill.

[@ricardomarcelino8388]

The connectivity between two or more solar charge controllers, is something I didn't consider, but with many solar strings it actually makes sense, and the connection to the internet even more. I think my Renogy Rover 30 amp has that... I will have to look and read the manual... Great little video again. Cheers.

[@benkashton7384]

Instablaster.

[@DazGeary]

That little chinese popup said "we are currently downloading all of your banking passwords, please stand by". When I bought my MPPT charge controller, I bought a fairly good one (EPEVER). Prior to this, I had a PWM controller that came bundled on the back of my 120w camping pannels. I had an experience of a battery meltdown whilst I was camping, it was very scary, especially with the kids playing around the area. I will never go back to PWM or cheap MPPT's again.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The EPever controllers are really good. I've ordered a small one too for my gate project.

[@DazGeary]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Great! I've been waiting for your solar gate battery build. Will be good to see the EPever controller review. I'm sure it will at the least be able to give an accurate voltage 😂

[@PowerPaulAu]

It'll be very interesting to see how the conversation goes with JNGE. I've had dealings with Make Sky Blue in a similar way and it was painful to say the least. But hopefully you're getting onto the actual people know the technical details. It's so frustrating speaking to people who just know how to read a fault finding flow chart. The voltage disparity is the biggest concern. If it's that inaccurate, it would make me wonder if it's an offset, or a percentage difference, or both.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The voltage difference seems to get larger with higher voltage, so it's a percentage.

[@PowerPaulAu]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia I didn't see any adjustments when you took the lid off, so it's possible it could be corrected via software calibration.

[@yodab.at1746]

I'm very happy with my EPEVER mppt charge controller, not hugely expensive but has been rock solid and accurate on voltage readings.

[@petervanbeekum]

EPEVER are great controllers, I have two myself, but the cheaper controllers only go to 24v. Their 48v controllers are more expensive. Much more than 120AUD.

[@yodab.at1746]

@@petervanbeekum mine goes to 60v iirc. I think a controller is worth spending good money on.

[@michaelbouckley4455]

@@yodab.at1746 that’s 60 volt max input from solar array. The smaller controllers, like that only do 12v & 24v batteries

[@yodab.at1746]

@@michaelbouckley4455 mine has a max of 150v

[@BenMitro]

I wonder if there is a user calibration procedure required? It doesn't make sense that one create a design that can be out 2% or 3% in a critical measurement and not provide user calibration when the voltage settings are uber critical. Perhaps there is a trim pot behind some sticky tape?

[@NautilusMortanian]

I agree with your opening sentiments on videos. Instantly subscribed, keep the videos coming! (Also, I appreciate opening it to show that massive inductor, but I'd also like to see the PCB traces on the terminal leads)

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you, Francis, welcome onboard. Greatly appreciated.

[@christopherstaples4222]

@10:30 finally what I was wanting to know , wanting to have 30x of these and trying to work out what is needed to data log

[@MarkusIngalsuo]

Epever seems to be respectable, in my experience. Just check that you get the common negative ones, like the Tracer AN -models. I accidentally burned a charge controller via RS485 since the controller was weaker than the RS485 masters negative ground :D

[@howardescoffery4950]

I had that problem with my mppt charge controller, a different brand mind you when I discovered the difference in reading I sit down and calculate the difference and reset the change controller to my calculated settings I never had a problem after that again.

[@bathfun]

Another great video. If you have a opportunity, in a future video, could you describe the various MPPT settings and what decisions you made for settings? No problems if you can't, I am sure I could read the manual, just not sure my small brain can compute. Once again thanks for the video

[@neliosamch3195]

I don't have this controller but go to setting and change battery type to Lithium. This controller may be only for lead acid batteries.

[@brucebugbee6604]

I use Victron products and they are rock solid. More money I know, but worth it because I'll only have to buy it once.

[@catch22frubert]

Exactly. With important electronics like a charge controller, ill pay a little extra for quality and only buy it once. I can understand playing around with cheap ones for KZbin content and testing, but for my main system, I'm not gonna try to save $100 or whatever, while trying to control the charging of a big, expensive battery bank. It doesn't make sense to use cheap charge controllers or a cheap bms when you are trying to make the cells last 10 or 20 years.

[@avinfor]

I recomend to calibrate the tester. I have mine calibrated with a precission voltage reference and got the same voltage than (my) mppt. Edit: The options on this mppt are for lead acid. I suppose for lithium you should put the same voltage on all charge settings.

[@louisgabriels6333]

Great video Sir, thanks for sharing this stuff. 👍👍👍Greats from Belgium 🇧🇪.

[@jimmyperez2305]

I have 2 makeskyblue 60a it work perfect

[@neliosamch3195]

On the settings change battery type to Lithium. This charge seems to be only for lead acid batteries. On the makeskyblue charge the settings for Lithium is #1 and #2 for lead acid. Lithium battery doesn't need floating state.

[@satman6124]

Great Video.Happy Three Kings Day from Spain

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Oh, yeah, 6. January!

[@mrzed6597]

You know that LiFePO4 cells do not like floating? Floating means the battery is full and even after that the MPPT tries to charge it (this is only for lead/acid batteries). It is overcharge and will damage your LFP battery. It is fine if you can monitor or manage the MPPT over internet ... but you will not (every day ... nope). For this reason automatic procedures required (like with a RasPi). Also if you want your battery to last long only discharge/charge to 10-90% or even 20-80%. For this if you do not know the REAL SoC of the battery (with a shunt) you need very accurate V meter. So this MPPT seems to be only a toy.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

That's what I'm trying to find out with this controller. It seems to behave differently to others. Usually I set the absorption voltage to the max I want the battery to charge to (13.6V) and set the float voltage to a lower value, like 13.4V. So charger stops at 13.6V and goes into float (which does nothing as the battery voltage is higher than float voltage. If the battery voltage goes below 13.4V it kicks in with float charging and eventually bulk charging until 13.6V again for the next cycle. And yes, I will monitor the system several times a day when I'm not at home. I'm that crazy.

[@FutureSystem738]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia IMHO Andy The only way to do it reliably is to have a SAFE top of charge voltage higher than float voltage, as you suggested. My controller tops the charge during “absorption” at about 13.6v /3.4v per cell, and then drops back to a lower “float” voltage, around 13.4v /3.35v. However I definitely wouldn’t try to save dollars on a cheap controller- just not worth the risk for your expensive batteries.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@@FutureSystem738 thanks Dave. That's exactly how all controllers work with Li batteries, just not this one.

[@saviothecnic]

Dude can you show me if I set the EW11 module and letting me have APP on mine no longer works and I don't know if the EW11 configuration is lost or the APP is ruined

[@Microfuture]

can u show how app (step by step) conect and use? parameters?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yes, absolutely. Ah, you mean for the JNGE controller? I don't use it much any more, just for testing.

[@NightVisionHunter1]

May be there is a minimum span between the bulk charge and float charge that you must have for it to work. Remember the voltage will drop a small amount when charging finishes so it may have a historicise between them to stop it flicking on and of continuously. Then your charge start would be below them both.

[@steve82608]

Love your videos. However, I think you made a couple of mistakes here: (1) Your panel may be too small, because an MPPT charge controller typically needs the voltage from the panel (Vmp) to be at least 30% higher than the battery charging voltage. PWM charger can deal with a panel voltage closer to the battery voltage. (2) A 200W panel will not overcharge your battery. The charge controller will only put out the current that the battery will accept. So, you need to look at the Vmp on your panel. On a 40W panel, it is probably only 16V or so. For a 12V pack, you would probably want something closer to 20-25V for MPPT to work well. Second, I believe you said you have a 200W panel. You should hook it up and things will work bettery.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The 40W panel on my roof has 22Voc and works fine with many other MPPTs and this 12V battery.

[@steve82608]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Voc doesn't really matter here. It's Vmp that the MPPT needs. I'm guessing that is closer to 19-20V?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Just checked the label again. It's 18.9Vmp. I should read your comment correctly, ey🤦‍♂️

[@jasondevine6014]

I have a couple of different ones but recently got 3 make sky-blue controllers. Really good actually. Can calibrate the voltage. Settings for lithium and everything adjustable from controller without PC.

[@mirogavalier6471]

have you tried connecting it to a LAN cable? what does it show and how does it work?

[@CarltonSwabyLife]

Good morning my brother,I am asking you a favor,I have one of those charge controllers and don't have any booklet for it Can you send me the link for the charge controller app to set up the parameters?And thanks for your reply

[@pellethoresen4025]

Great videoes, Its fun to experiment with solar, and I share your passion for it. I got my hands on 4x 285w panels, I paid 114Aus$ ish per panel, Thats a steal I think. Got an AiO 5Kw hybrid inverter that i bought localy. Got 12x 150Ah Lead accid bats connected in 48v config, and they came for free, those where used. 51Kgs pr.bat. insane heavy. I got a used battery rack from Eltek, it was a part of the flatpack system they have. I have no need for the advanced electronics that came with is, so I riped that out. got 3 battery equalizer from China and those smal volt meters so i can keep an eye on the volts on each battery. I dont like cloud sollutions, so keep on only on my Lan. Remote Desktop or Teamviewer works perfectly for me. Keep those great videoes goin. I do learn alot from it. Even I sit on the other side of the globe from you (Norway)

[@james10739]

Ya i know I am currently fighting with a company on ebay about an inverter that is supposed to be a 2000w continuous 24v but the best I can get is about 1400w for about 5 min before it overheates it has good protection but can't run the load I need it for and they said I need a bigger battery so I hooked it up to my bigger bank and same thing now they are telling me it's designed for lead acid because it can only do 1000w on lithium batteries I already told them that doesn't make any sense mine is 7s and that it maintains voltage much better than lead acid but I'm going to test it anyways

[@BenCos2018]

the inverter should run fine on lithium or lead acid and do the same wattage That's just a seller trying to scam you I think

[@james10739]

@@BenCos2018 I know

[@BenCos2018]

@@james10739 ok Just thought I'd say it in case you didn't good luck with the seller btw

[@neliosamch3195]

Don't let them play game. Ebay and the seller drag their foot so after 30 days they won't have to refund you. Let ebay know that you have been scammed and want your money back. They got away with it because I didn't know better.

[@NightVisionHunter1]

And don't close the dispute until you get your money back because you can't raise another one once it has been closed..

[@donshortjohn2108]

I assume that the thresholds for the voltages are to narrow for the ability of the device to adjust/ adopt the current fine enough which collides with the behaviour of the chemical reaction of the battery. The currents might be also interesting at the treshholds.

[@CRXMAN04]

Hello ou peut t'on trouver le software de contrôle

[@jsal9678]

Enjoyed your videos. Informative. What BMS will you be using ?

[@UPD282]

I’ve played with three different solar charge controllers recently all cheap ones but they all ran a lower battery voltage than actual voltage

[@ionl1675]

Great work sir ✌

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks ✌️

[@petersherrouse33]

I really appreciate your videos. Some time has passed. I notice that when i search on the JNGE controller I get your video and an JNGE advertisement video. To me, it's clear JNGE is trying to reach customers that see your video. The ad video says "new" and offers a discount. It never says that they have addressed the problem in the "new" version but it would sure seem they would have if they are trying to reach customers that know about the problem. Do you know if the error has been fixed in this New version? It sure seems they would have sent you an updated one if they had. Thank you for the material you put up :-)

[@fkdeazevedo]

I have a similar controller it's a hybrid wind/solar they sold it to me as a 1500wind / 1500solar 3000w total but in reality it's not it's only 500w wind / 500w solar. Lame. The solar seems to work well I get 13 amps on a sunny day in the middle of winter. But the turbine setup sucks I get 3- 6 amps on a 25km/hr wind which isn't too bad.

[@james10739]

Well if you keep it you may be able to figure out where the voltage divider for the voltage sense and put in a potentiometer and dial it in

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I think this is a software glitch...

[@bostjantrancar9605]

Try to calibrate the voltage on charge controler ....contact the manufacturer or best of all .......lower the charging voltage for ...... Best charged voltage is 3.45v/cell Lifepo4 cells actualy dont like to be charged to 3.65v Best range is from 3v-3.45v....if u want to have them long time....

[@petersherrouse33]

Second thought. If you used a real BMS ;-) could it be used to shut off the charge at the right voltage, or would that lock up the BMS? I remember somewhere that that could destroy the charge controller. Also, could you just program the MPPT cut off voltage a .3 volts offset? Yea, it's a mess but would it work?

[@pobrenojapaojunior3149]

Nice charge controller

[@laurentpythoud4713]

Hi, great video. Can you please tell me it the JNGE controller is realy 12v, 24v and also 48v. I am interested in the 20A model. Thanks.

[@biskero]

did you try to see what it measures without panels?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

This was all done without solar or load connected, just the battery...

[@biskero]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia so a guess is that the difference that you see is due to the mppt power consumption, you mentioned 125mA, maybe they measure the battery voltage after the consumption.

[@GlaucusBlue]

Your settings don't make any sense atm, although it's using different terms to what I'm used to and I can't see a manual. In lead acid you have 3 stage charging bulk, absorption and float. Bulk 0-80%, absorption 80-100% and float just keeps the battery topped off. So not sure how the names translate to this controller but the aliexoress says it is a 3 stage charger. So float should be set to the maximum you want so in this case 13.6v and I'm assuming improve charging is equivalent to absorption so should also be set to 13.6, so charges to 13.6 and then goes straight into float to keep it topped up. And the logic probably weighs float as more important which is why it's not kicking back into improve charging as you have float set to lower. If it is always consistently out of voltage you can just dial that in, in the settings. Just dial back the 13.6v setting till you get 13.6v at the battery or what ever you are aiming for.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

When I try that, the controller jumps from absorption to floating and back all the time, giving the battery little peaks of charging. Not good. It does not seem to follow the logic of other controllers.

[@GlaucusBlue]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia that's odd as the absorption one shouldn't kick back in till 13.4v, have they given you a "user" manual at all? If not ask their support these companies will generally send you a basterdised English pdf, but with a bit of head scratching can normally work it out.

[@GlaucusBlue]

Or is there any support documentation for app, that gives us some idea what each setting is?

[@neliosamch3195]

That is what I thought. This charge is for lead acid only. Lithium does not need floating or absortion. It start slowing down until zero current at 100%. If it float it will damage the batteries.

[@CollinBaillie]

Andy, what have you done with this JNGE SCC? Do you still have it, still using it?

[@robertgrant5895]

Are you sure you are reading the MPPT correctly? I bet it was displaying battery voltage and not the input solar voltage. That is why it was less than the battery and that was due to losses across the cables. In addition, I have seen significant variations in measured voltage even across instruments that are normally considered accurate and reliable such as Volt Ohm meters. Of course, to truly get a decent Volt Ohm meter you need to spend a bit of money.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The voltage of the controller is LOWER than the voltage of the battery. This can never be explained with loses in cables as I explained. Also, there was no load or solar connected, just the battery voltage reading.

[@robertgrant5895]

Now you have me very confused. I am looking at your video and at 2 minutes in it shows cables going into the PV and battery connections. Now you say you don't have solar connected. It is very difficult to say what is going on under these conditions. My guess is that your charge controller is measuring and displaying the voltage it senses from the battery. That is what it shows in the video anyway. There is some length of wire from your battery to the charge controller so I expect some losses although now you also say you had no load. I can think of a plausible explanation for everything you are complaining about from good MPPT to bad MPPT.. A good MPPT will actually have a separate voltage sense wire that goes directly to the battery terminals. That eliminates inaccurate voltage readings due to current variations. If your MPPT thinks it is seeing a 13 volt battery and the battery is actually at 13.3 volts, then the MPPT may try to generate a charging voltage that is too low or borderline. That could explain your charging light going on and off. The MPPT alternates between doing nothing and charging. Anyway, perhaps you should quit buying cheap stuff unless you have seen some verifiable reviews. My guess is that your MPPT has accuracy problems but it could be some other things I can think of as well. By the way, did you try putting a load on the system and seeing if that changes things?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@@robertgrant5895 then it would be the other way around, charger has higher voltage than battery because you lose some through the cables. This one is the opposite.

[@robertgrant5895]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia That is only if the MPPT is charging but my guess is it is not charging all the time and thus the light going on and off due to inaccurate voltage measurements at the terminals of the MPPT. If the MPPT is not charging than you could have voltage losses in the opposite direction. There may be a way to compensate by varying voltage settings in the MPPT menu. Can't say as I have not seen the menus. ONe thing seems clear and that is that the MPPT is not seeing the correct voltage. I see different voltages measured by my reasonably accurate volt-ohm meter just by changing the leads. By the way, you have your positive red lead reversed with the black common on your voltcraft meter. That does not inspire a lot of confidence.

[@robertgrant5895]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia If you are interested, there is another test you can do. My latest hypothesis is that when you measured the voltage at the battery terminals you may have done it when the MPPT was charging the battery. If this is so, you would be measuring the charging voltage and not the true battery voltage. You should repeat you tests but after you record what the MPPT says is the battery voltage, disconnect the battery from everything else and measure the voltage at the terminals of the battery. That way you can insure you are not measuring the MPPT charging voltage. The thought here is that the MPPT must measure the battery voltage in order to know if it needs to charge and what kind of charge it needs to give. So that would imply that at least some of the time the MPPT will stop charging to measure the battery voltage, calculate a new MPPT point, and then go back to charging. I would guess that most of the time it is charging if the battery voltage is low and only some of the time it is measuring the battery voltage. If true, you are likely measuring the MPPT Charging voltage and not the true battery voltage. If you disconnect the battery from the MPPT (and probably all else as well) you could see if the actual battery voltage is closer to what the MPPT is telling you it is.

[@alexandergunda8916]

Ask them if there is a way to calibrate the voltage reading. There might be a setup possibility or a Poti inside?! Also, did you measure the voltage directly on the pins (when open)?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Voltage was measured at the terminals with nor charge or load connected. I don't think the voltage can be calibrated in any way unless they can upgrade the software.

[@walknut959]

two negative points they need to fix immediately!

[@craigreynolds4449]

Please can tell me where to get the app?

[@Microfuture]

can you send the apk for android? please. i bought jnge, but i dont have application

[@james10739]

That's funny going from a rj45 to some port that is serial to ethernet

[@irish-medi-weed-grower5240]

another great video brother . Quick question , have you or any of your subscribers ordered solar panels from china ? I am currently trying to , but cannot believe how difficult it is . If any one has any tips I would appreciate the input .

[@neliosamch3195]

Trina with the new cell configuration are better and can be found on ebay.

[@laurentpythoud4713]

I'm also interested to know what App is used with this JNGE controller and if it is compatible IOS ? Thanks for your vidéos.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

It's Android only afaik. I think there was a link in the manual of the controller to download it.

[@robertgoddard5695]

I saw your video Just a thought , I wonder if it's anything to do with the fact you have 4 cells in series . I have the same device but the manual recommends 3 cells not 4 to achieve 11.7 v volts

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

That totally depends on what cells you use, Li-ion or LiFePO4.

[@wikkidme755]

I would give it a 1 out of 10 if reads the wrong voltage.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yeah, I'm still negotiating with the manufacturer to get this sorted...

[@phallatep2274]

Try PowMr 60A cheap and very good

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I'll check it out

[@petervanbeekum]

There is this funny thing going on between PowMr and MakeSkyBlue where both sides are accusing one another of stealing their design. If you find the right listing on ebay or aliexpress there are sometimes whole multi page rants in the description about the other companies behavior. It is very entertaining. Their controllers do look the same on the outside at least.I still have not figured out who is right!

[@neliosamch3195]

@@petervanbeekum I have 8 makeskyblue 60A and working okay but every two years need fan replacement. I see many videos of powmr which had burned out.

[@phallatep2274]

MPPT 60A you use only max 40A for long using. You can parallel if need more Amp.

[@neliosamch3195]

@@phallatep2274 I use them in parallel and 6 panels of 400w each at 48v system and each controller make about 2kw per hour or 35a which is plenty.

[@rickcooperjr62864]

disconnect the solar then disconnect the battery after you set the settings the internal controller inside it wont set to your settings till you do this then after about 30 seconds reconnect the battery then reconnect the solar and it should run the settings you programmed alot of these chinesse solar charge controllers are this way its a pain but it is what it is once you get it set properly it is good

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

It still is uncalibrated and I cannot use it like this...

[@SolarAddict06]

I think that mppt is not suitable for small battery..you should use big battery like 200 ah and about 400 watts panel to make it work properly. Mppt controller is not suitable for small set up.

[@codiecarroll735]

280ah battery there mate

[@SolarAddict06]

@@codiecarroll735 he test it with the small lead acid batt.

[@SolarAddict06]

@@codiecarroll735 that is when he told that the mppt scc have a problem.

[@codiecarroll735]

@@SolarAddict06 I saw a problem from 0:01

[@jimmyperez2305]

Thats pwm controller

[@michaelbouckley4455]

No, it is mppt, and only mppt have an inductor coil inside them, as you can see, in the video

[@khryon07]

JNGE APP WHAT IT CALLED

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

You download the PC software and the Android app from my website here: off-grid-garage.com/solar-charge-controller/

[@archangel9568]

My friend is typical from China suppliers You may try to translate into Chinese using Google translator so they can understand what you ask them

[@archangel9568]

Should have bought a better controller for about $360.

[@ChetCheng]

Get a renogy at least I know that works

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

What settings do you use for LiFePO4 cells?

[@ChetCheng]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia I think the setting is just under lipo since I don't have lifepo4 I am not sure I will see if I can find it in the manual

[@sreekumarUSA]

010621/0157h PST- 0957 UTC. Thank you. I stopped at the middle and had to make the following comment, with due respect. Your predicament happened because you chose to procure a cheap and unknown item. Had you gone for a well known MPPT CC; viz: VICTRON CC of your choice; the issue and frustration wouldn’t have been there. Once again, my due apology for the above outburst. Take care and be safe. 73s...

[@martinhilburger2971]

Better take two Victron Solar charge controller than this chinese holly trash 😁

[@offgridwanabe]

I always like the hardware you can adjust the voltage so we can make them all the same but as the voltage gets higher the error changes that leaves us with the setting of our devices to the voltage we want at the end product which with lithium will be the battery.