HOW TO UNDERSTAND ANY SCHEMATIC FROM AUTOMOTIVE AND THEIR MODULES FOR BEGINNERS

[@suburbanrapper]

thanks again for your service (ministry) to the many that are intimidated easily by auto electronics yet still have the will to attempt to learn this very useful, self esteem boosting, and money saving skill. Thanks for your service. You are inspiring to others and call many by your example to do likewise while it is still day. PTL! sincerely .. John

[@Joeelectronicschematicsforauto]

John thank you so much for your kind words I'm trying my best on a very tough subject to teach much appreciation

[@AF1MIDS]

Good morning Joe and nice to meet you my friend! My vehicle (2003 Dodge Caravan Se V6 3.3) is giving me a (P0201-Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 1) code and i have a (2003 POWERTRAIN DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES book for town & country, caravan and voyager) that shows on page 88-89 test procedures to follow and apply. So far i have applied (test 1) and (test 2) and im on (test 3) now and im stuck on not being able to follow and apply it cause im not grasping and understanding it at all. This is Test 3 Turn the ignition off. Disconnect the Fuel Injector harness connector. Remove the ASD Relay from the IPM. Turn the ignition on. Jumper the Fused B+ circuit and the ASD Relay Output circuit in the IPM. (This part im lost) Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, probe the (K342) ASD Relay Output circuit. Does the test light illuminate brightly? Yes Go To 4 No Repair the open in the (K342) ASD Relay Output circuit. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER-5. This is a video of me following and applying (test 2-kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJPdgn6vnrOqmaM) and in that video it shows the pages in the book from page 88-89 and pages 312-314 for code (P0201-Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 1). Are you able to please make a video showing me how to apply (Test 3), (Test 4), (Test 5) and (Test 6) on page 88-89 and the same from page 312-314 (Test 1), (Test 2), (Test 3), (Test 4), (Test 5) and (Test 6) shown in the video?

[@mordecaiepsilon]

This video is a cool introduction to how to think about schematics I've heard the mid planes are often just voltage and/or ground on simpler multi layer designs

[@Joeelectronicschematicsforauto]

you are exactly right Judith I discussed that in previous videos about all the layers that make up these pretty circuit boards they are very complicated and multi boards thank you for your comments you're 100% right

[@jithinramas2979]

Pls start video series for automotive schematics with explanation from drawing diagrams

[@Joeelectronicschematicsforauto]

I'll try my best it's just that I have so many projects going once you're on the internet it's like it opens many doors I appreciate your comment so much

[@j.ctamayo9364]

Good teacher !!! where are you located ? I would like to be your assistant !

[@Joeelectronicschematicsforauto]

Unfortunately I don't teach I don't have the time for that but thank you so much for the compliment

[@davidessien5465]

Great engineer, please help! How can I solve this car problem? Recently, a client called me to fix his 2000 Toyota Avalon car that cranked but wasn't starting. From the onset, the car experienced several mechanical, as well as, electrical issues. Some of those problems were:- (1) Engine Oil consumption; (2) Engine misfire; (3) Engine rattling; (4) Intermittent hard starting after shutdown; (5) Hard to engage in drive, except engine is hot; etc. Hence, he took the car to a garage inorder to rectify the excessive Engine oil consumption and other car problems highlighted above. Consequently, the car problems exacerbated after engine rebuild by the engineer! The car owner wasn't satisfied with his repairs because it seems the engineer was deceitful. Although the car started after the rebuild, the problems still persisted. Valves weren't grinded after engine overhaul, engine still misfired at idle and when accelerating, etc. The engineer whose garage the car is presently being parked, requested for another engine overhau/ rebuildl. After engine rebuild the car started, the oil was mixed with water; the engine was still misfiring, rattling, etc. It was obvious, that he didn't use durable parts to do his work. Hence, the car owner moved the car to another garage for better repairs. The new garage suggested to the car owner that another engine rebuild is pertinent for optimal engine operation. During my conversation with this engineer, whose garage the car is presently being parked, he told me that: "when the car was first brought in, he noticed a black smoke ( maybe he was mistaken for blue smoke, at exhaust tail at idle). When accelerating, there's a loss of power, engine bucking, popping,etc. After the rebuild, the car didn't start because the mechanic didn't unlock the car with the remote but proceeded directly to cranking the engine. In addition, the security relay wasn't actuated for starting to take place. Electrician did some wire cutting around that axis which he said was corrected to factory, opened with a remote before the car started. Fortunately, after everything, the car started again. But there was still an intermittent misfire. What the car owner said was that, 'even when the second mechanic did engine rebuild, the car still misfired. Until he personally bypassed earth from the COP wire to the solenoids very close to the fuel injector often tightened with 10mm knot and depicted with blue and green colors on the picture. Car owner verified that the reasons for the misfire from both mechanics which still prevailed, was due to the solenoid valve that wasn't opening. That's why when accelerating it experienced a loss of power, similar to that experienced by a faulty fuel pump. After gear oil replacement and test driven by the second mechanic , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished. As he tried to restart it, the car refused to. Infact, when the ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, battery and fuel light was not displaying in the dashboard/ instrument cluster. However, during cranking battery light glew faintly and start. But when throttled, it would shutdown. Electrician verified and replaced the alternator diode with a new one. When Ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, the battery and other lights came out brightly but when cranked to start engine wouldn't start again. Sadly, it still wouldn't start. I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. there are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port. Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual. Electrician from that garage, who also worked on the car said that he sniffed burning smell from the ECU, however personally I didn't when I went to start the car. I don't know how certain that was. Hence, I pulled out the ECU to a laptop board engineer to test the components inside. He said: "everything looks ok and test fine, however the IC he doesn't have the right tools to proceed with the test. With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON. Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires. Please, what should I do to start the car?

[@Joeelectronicschematicsforauto]

Well there's multiple problems here obviously the way I would start is I would have to get a scanner to see what is going on with the ignition system and a fuel system if it's not starting you have to put a clamp meter to see how much draw your having if it's cranking no start do you might try to bypass the fuel pump relay as I have showed in videos but remember certain vehicles we need the computer to turn on the car with a crankshaft sensor town of the computer at the starter has engaged and the engine is trying to turn over I understand these tools are probably you don't you do not possess but this is the most efficient way to do it other than just changing parts which obviously really did not help the cause first electronically see how much the battery is supplying to start the car I know this is difficult and to see ignitions timing to make sure I am belt is proper the timing belt is proper try to get back to me

[@davidessien5465]

@@Joeelectronicschematicsforauto Thank you so much sir! I would give you a feedback.

[@Joeelectronicschematicsforauto]

@@davidessien5465 keep me updated

[@Joeelectronicschematicsforauto]

I believe we spoke about it do you have any updates

[@DavidEssien-nn7qb]

@@Joeelectronicschematicsforauto Yes, we did. Sorry I didn't get back to you. I went there to conduct some tests in the car and noticed that no iota of fuel was forth coming from the fuel pump on ignition on and during cranking. No power to fuel pump. Scanner still didn't communicate. No spark no injector pulse still remained.