Machining a Model Steam Engine - Part 14 (A) - Connecting Rod and Cap

[@ikkentonda]

I’d never thought about gradually moving the quill stop to minimize the risk of grabbing. This series is pure gold. Thanks!!

[@joepie221]

If you can, contacting the quill stop and raising the table is even more secure.

[@ikkentonda]

@@joepie221 I have a knee on my pantograph engraver for light work, but rely on a benchtop mill for most of my milling needs, sadly. Gradually adjusting the quill stop is a good compromise - that I'll now start using!

[@leonidassavalas745]

I appreciate your channel. Great attention to detail and theory.

[@joepie221]

I appreciate that!

[@ArmchairDeity]

WOOHOOO it’s starting to look like a real steam engine! I’ve been with this series since ep 1 and can’t wait till we get to the first start... loving it man. Thank you Joe Pie for this mini-course “Introduction to Machining: Steam Engine 101”. Maybe you do, but I suspect you have no idea how generous you’re being here... or how inaccessible/unavailable this kind of education really is! Thank you, sir...

[@joepie221]

I'm happy to pass along these tips. Just be sure to pass them along to someone else.

[@johnflaherty8380]

Joe My jaw hurts from droping on the floor, The way you overcome things is beyond me because your a genius and I'm not, Love your work.

[@joepie221]

Wow, thank you

[@dennislee444]

gonna start callin you pin Pieczynski , you get more uses out of pins than I ever thought possible . great video . Pie , thanks

[@StuartsShed]

I bought a set of gauge pins because of one of Joes tutorials, and they are one of my most used tools! So amazingly versatile!

[@joepie221]

The only thing better than having a set, is having 2 sets.

[@johnferguson2728]

It would take more than one set to do what you do. Do you have multiple sets or just duplicate pins you’ve acquired over the years?

[@joepie221]

@@johnferguson2728 Hi John. I have a full set that starts at .06 and goes to .750 in .001 increments. I have a lot of doubles and tenth sets by Deltronic, and a set of mini pins from .015 to .060. Anything else I need, I usually make. Probably near 1000 total.

[@slyfox7429]

Another thumbs up from your average arm chair machinist. Outstanding content in all of your videos. Happy Thanksgiving

[@joepie221]

Thanks, you too!

[@fedderback1]

Joe I think you are having to much fun with this build. Your enthusiasm is contagious, thank you!

[@joepie221]

I really am. More than I thought I would.

[@ChrisB257]

Was wondering initially where you'd start - challenges again. Like the way you planned this out - makes absolute sense. Pie logic again with some ''softly-softly, catchee-monkey'' cutting. Like that 'double hole' approach to the big end. Looking fwd to part 14 (B). Your total time into this project by now must be pretty significant but well worth excellent results. Every video has been sheer pleasure to watch. Thanks Joe.

[@joepie221]

I appreciate your continued comments. Thanks. I am very pleased with this model so far. I'll enjoy looking at it for years to come.

[@abowie1965]

Woohoo! I still have that one to do. I got really brave today and did the eccentric cap. Worked out quite well ( = no disaster, and it fits). I will be interested to see how you set it up. Again many thanks for the effort you put into these videos. And your comments about the riser here. The same for the eccentric. I squared it off and used it to hold in the 4 jaw. Very useful. Cheers AB

[@Sketch1994]

6:19 My teacher's exact words were: "10 people are going to do it 10 different ways, they will most likely all be successful, but only a couple of them will shine"

[@joepie221]

The world of machining in a nutshell.

[@gordondowdy833]

Cannot wait to see Part B of this video! You continue to impress me with your ability to see the future. As a master automotive technician with advanced technology certifications, I know what to look for as a product is in the diagnosis stages. It is a welcoming experience to watch another at work. God bless you and yours. I hope you had a blessed Thanksgiving.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Part B just went online.

[@ericsteel7643]

Joe , Thanks for the Thanksgiving Special :) I quit watching NFL and you have Filled that spot Thank you. watching many of your video's today . Binge watching as a matter of fact.

[@joepie221]

I appreciate that

[@johnvaluk1401]

As always Thank you Joe for another great video . Hope your holiday was good.

[@joepie221]

It was! Thanks. I hope yours was as well.

[@TrojanHorse1959]

Happy Thanksgiving Joe & Family!

[@joepie221]

Same to you!

[@johngunn7087]

Excellent content- as usual !! Thanks, Joe !!

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@MrCharliejaera]

Mr Joe is so PRO it hurts!!!

[@stumccabe]

I'm really enjoying this steam engine build. Thanks Joe.

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@longcaster]

Joe, you are doing some mighty fine camera work

[@joepie221]

Thanks. When the auto focus cooperates, it usually looks pretty good.

[@gagasmancave8859]

Yet more progress that's great to follow keep em coming Joe

[@joepie221]

More coming. Hang in there.

[@aaronhammond7297]

13:00 I always have trouble drilling half a hole - I always end up with a full hole.

[@joepie221]

Use half a drill bit. Boom.

[@thomasaltruda]

When I worked in an engine machine shop, we had a Sunnen rod honing machine that would final size those holes really nicely!

[@joepie221]

I've used those. Amazing results.

[@StuartsShed]

Very interesting as always. I’ll admit, as a novice and amateur hobby machinist, when I make this part I’ll do the big end by clamping the part finished cap on and boring to size at that point, but I am honestly thrilled to see the method and set up for finishing the bore BEFORE splitting the big end. It inspires a lot of confidence. Happy Thanksgiving! Stay safe and well.

[@joepie221]

Its a bold approach, but I am confident I'll hit it.

[@johnferguson2728]

If you’d put a drawing of those “Toe Clamps” on your Patreon page I’d buy a print.

[@joepie221]

I'll see what I can do.

[@TomokosEnterprize]

As promised. This is awesome Joe. Thanks for leaving the notes up long enough to read. Old eyes take longer eh. Thanks, on to part 2.

[@dogsarebest7107]

if you are on a pc, you can use ,. (same buttons as ) when paused to go forward/backwards by one frame. Depending on the video it might be 24, 30, or 60 (or 50) frames per second. lets you pause and find the exact thing you think you saw

[@TomokosEnterprize]

@@dogsarebest7107 Thanks. I am as sharp as a river stone when it comes to these things.

[@dogsarebest7107]

@@TomokosEnterprize no worries. actually, if you are playing a video, if you press ? (by that i mean shift /) it pops up a window that shows you all the keyboard shortcuts for youtube! and there are many shortcut keys

[@TomokosEnterprize]

@@dogsarebest7107 WOW, Thanks.

[@dogsarebest7107]

@@TomokosEnterprize Sometimes it's the simplest things that make the biggest differences. Glad I could show you this! Be warned, knowing this information makes a 5 minute video take 10 minutes to watch because you'll be going frame by frame for _EVERYTHING_. enjoy

[@adamgentry332]

Joe you should make a large steam engine

[@ianrobinson509]

Joe, wouldn't it have been better to split the big end first (1/8" cut) bolt the two halves together, face and then drill for the shaft to size and distance from little end?

[@leewilloughby6214]

Thanks for taking the time to upload today. Happy Thanksgiving 🍁🦃🍽🇺🇸

[@joepie221]

Same to you!

[@timothyprochilo4840]

Thanks Joe. Happy Thanksgiving sir.😎

[@joepie221]

Same to you!

[@kevinsellsit5584]

When the casting hole in the small end journal of the connecting rod appeared, I let out a gasp loud enough to stop the wife cooking Thanksgiving dinner, and run out to see if I was "having a heart attack". This has me wondering if I'm overly involved with this build series, or just overly insured?

[@joepie221]

I had a moment of confusion as well. I didn't expect that. I could add a big chamfer to both sides to eliminate it.

[@kevinsellsit5584]

@@joepie221 I'd leave the maximum amount of material there, it's not a bearing, and you can't see it when installed.

[@dalemcinnes1834]

Hi Joe,. I think I would call that a spot for oil to gather. Dale in Canada

[@ghl3488]

Thanks again Joe, I take so much from your techniques. Regards Gareth

[@joepie221]

Thanks. If nothing else, it presents a good place to get your own creativity started.

[@teamidris]

Real life reality: if the big end hole comes out too big, no worries. On a full size one with a worn clunky crank bearing you pop the end cap off, skim or file it and bolt it back on. The end play is important, the lift not so much. ^-^ *they might fit new shell bearings as well, but on those there is shims going on and all sorts of get-it-going for the next shift malarkey.

[@daveb3910]

Need a hole en-smallener. Malarkey!😀😂great word, it needs to make a come back and i appreciate your dedication to its revival!

[@steveallarton98]

On the real ones, we skim off the mating faces to reduce the lift and scrape the bearing faces to match the crank pin - engineers blue and patience is the order of the day ! I’ve trued up oval crank pins with a file and a strip of emery cloth, when re-machining wasn’t an option . . . .

[@teamidris]

@@steveallarton98 Oh my gosh that crank pin work should get you an award. That is tough on your hands.

[@bobwas4066]

What an awesome series!! Can you show use how you made the fixture plate and clamps sometime ? or give us dimensions

[@joepie221]

I may do that. A lot of requests for that.

[@DevilDog36th]

Are there many more parts left? Looking forward to seeing the final assembly!

[@joepie221]

The crank, end cap for the cylinder a rod gland and a few threaded rods. Thats it. Its very close.

[@outsidescrewball]

Great discussion/build/tips galore

[@joepie221]

Thanks Chuck. I hope you check out part 2 tomorrow.

[@johnferguson2728]

Thanks for working on Thanksgiving Joe. Getting anxious to see this hooked up to the crank and the slider. Nice work!

[@joepie221]

Happy Turkey Day John. Come back for part 2. This came out really nice.

[@johnferguson2728]

The whole thing is coming out nice Joe. I’ve really enjoyed this series. Happy Thanksgiving to you too!

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hi Joe, Nice work... I hope you had a good thanksgiving... Take care Paul,,

[@maximilianzamboni1117]

Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving!

[@joepie221]

Same to you!

[@verdantpulse5185]

'Ten people,ten ways';Swiss proverb: Ask ten brewers, get eleven opinions.

[@pontoonrob7948]

Joe, just out of curiosity... I have heard you say many times that you do not indicate off of a casting. At the end there you used an edge finder on the casting. Was this done because you had an implied large margin of error due to fractional sizes given?

[@2lefThumbs]

Loved the Dramamine warning 😀

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing! Happy Thanksgiving!

[@joepie221]

Same to you!

[@allanmanning5131]

Joe could one turn a spacer on the lathe to place under the bosses at each end to help negate flexing during plunging..

[@FireandFrostHVAC]

I was thinking exactly the same thing Allen... but I do think this was an excellent video nonetheless. I would have approached this situation differently but I’m totally interested in how Joe machined it.

[@turningpoint6643]

For I guess most importantly casting reasons I'd be willing to bet those brass colored parts are what's called a gunmetal alloy. It's used a lot on model engine parts due to it's flow characteristics in it's molten state while casting the more complex shaped parts. It's also a quite gummy material so your issues with reaming make it even more likely that's what those parts were cast from Joe. The Royal Arsenal in Woolwich England used it extensively during the period of cast bronze cannon barrels as well as most other cannon foundry's. So that's where the gunmetal term comes from. But other than for model engineering parts it's now a term that's generally not used anymore. And compared to most other bronze alloys it's also pretty soft, so I suspect that's also why you had compression dents in the previous part.

[@joepie221]

It cuts like brass with copper mixed in. Mills, drills and taps well, but doesn't ream very well.

[@howder1951]

Nice video Joe, I am enjoying this series immensely. Just a question on your sequence, my first instinct would be to do the drilling, threading then split and reassemble to bore, would that be a rookie error, or are you just trying to show an alternate methodology. I am rookie with regards to working with castings. Cheers!

[@MrRedstoner]

Alternative I'd assume, having watched Motores Patelo make a connecting rod by first splitting it and his results suggest he knows damn well what he's doing.

[@howder1951]

@@MrRedstoner after mulling it over, this is typical Joe, in that his initial setup is to get as much done on the part in one setup, and why his methodology is different from mine which shows a huge chasm of experience between us. I hope I learned something here.

[@joepie221]

The recognized standard approach is to split and reattach the cap, then do the hole. You'll get a round hole for sure. The only worry may be hitting the parting line. My setup was solid and my approach was sound. Even if it didn't work out, I still had the conventional approach as a safety net. So I went for it.

[@mr.t.807]

App solutely fabulous Thanks for all the great ideas

[@joepie221]

Glad you like them!

[@JohnDoe-es5xh]

As always, well done Mr.Pieczynsky. I'm nosy for the last part, the crankshaft. Learned a lot of your precise workflow explanations. And, of course, for the first breathing of your steam engine. As a German viewer, your ancient measuring system sometimes muddles me a bit, but I hope, this will belong to the past one day. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. In Germany we call it "Erntedankfest", could be translated to "cropthankscelebration" 😄.

[@RobB_VK6ES]

I would not be holding my breath waiting for the US general public to fully embrace metric. Fun fact. All US measurement standards are derived from the primary metric standard. Over time the "official" inch has been redefined a number of times to more accurately align with the metre. Another fun fact. The US military for which they are so proud uses metric for all operations. Interestingly many of the fasteners used in recent US automobile manufacturing are metric but I suspect their adoption here is more to do with price and availability rather than a progression to full metric in design and manufacture. I believe a major reason for not metricating the US is road signs and standards. The argument being it would cost too much to change every sign on the vast US road system. Sadly the longer it holds out the more costly any conversion will be in the future. There exists one really strange anomaly in the metric world that really baffles me. All metalic pipe sizes and threads are based on imperial sizes and threads.

[@rennkafer13]

@@RobB_VK6ES I work for DoD... they do not use "metric for all operations". Some I'm certain are, but on ships, no.

[@RobB_VK6ES]

@@rennkafer13 Yeah my bad. Nautical and air still use imperial. Does that mean the Marines swing both ways :)

[@rennkafer13]

@@RobB_VK6ES lol I'll ask my Marine co-worker.

[@joepie221]

Be prepared to duck.

[@paulmorrey733]

Thanks Joe

[@MercXLR8]

Where do you get those work holding clamps like in 8:55

[@joepie221]

I made them.

[@henrya3530]

Thank you for showing an interesting alternative method of machining this component :-) The method proposed on the plans is the one most Model Engineers would use, especially those who do not have a DRO on their milling machine, i.e. making the hole in the big end of the connecting rod would be the LAST operation rather than the first. The distance between the holes in the connecting rod isn't that critical since total distance travelled by the piston is determined by the throw of the crank and the length of the piston rod is adjusted at the crosshead.

[@joepie221]

Agreed, boring at the end is easier and does produce a round hole, but, I will put my results along side one done that way and dare you to tell them apart. Its a little harder, but its the way I wanted to do mine.

[@henrya3530]

@@joepie221 And there's nothing wrong with your method. What I love about engineering is there's ALWAYS more than one of doing things to achieve the desired result :-)

[@magiclarry7688]

I am curious does this company sell individual parts for the kit? I know I would mess up parts as I were trying to make this.

[@johnferguson2728]

They do, don’t ask my how I know that.

[@joepie221]

How do you know that? I want specifics.

[@johnferguson2728]

My bandsaw grabbed the part out of my hand when I was trying to cut it from the bearing caps. It wouldn’t affect function but I don’t think paint would hide the scar. If I had a band saw like yours it wouldn’t have happened. That’s the next tool on the list. The good news is that it was only $5.+ for the three parts (actually 4 if you count the two bearing caps) in that casting group.

[@magiclarry7688]

@@johnferguson2728 I am glad you are OK. Bandsaws can be very unforgiving. A friend of mine has only 7 fingers now because of one. $5 seems like a deal for individual parts in my opinion.

[@johnferguson2728]

I was shocked! $5 is very fair.

[@peterstenabaugh3041]

Hey Joe, where did you find those really cool toe clamps. I've looked all over the web for items like that and they don't seem to exist. That could be a good product for you to fabricate and sell on your web site. With your cnc machining center it would be simple to make a batch. The extended nose is really a handy thing for holding small parts such as what you're machining now.

[@joepie221]

I did make these long ago. They are perfect for this type of work combined with my tooling plate.

[@peterstenabaugh3041]

@@joepie221 Well maybe now's a good time to add them to your things for sale, such as your cool milling machine tool, which I have purchased from you, but yet to use.... I have ordered some 3/4" 12L14 steel bars from McMaster to make myself a few of these clamps..... cool idea. I already have an aluminum tooling plate so I may use that although a steel one would be better. Once I get my toe clamps designed and made, I'll email you the drawing for them and you can then share with your subscribers.

[@teamidris]

Ooooh, another vidleeho :o)

[@tonyashgrove9512]

Hi Joe, As always a superb job and good techniques. Can you please advise on the clamping, my concern when I'm clamping a job like this is the con rod is NOT flat or parallel, how can I ensure it has not and will not rotate when firstly the clamping and then the cutting forces are applied. Probably wrongly, I tend to add an additional temporary clamp to the opposite end I'm machining and put a packing under to stop any flexing, then when the first end is finished, apply another temporary clamp to the finished end before removing the first temporary one, then machine the second end. I would appreciate your advice and guidance, Thanks

[@joepie221]

Verify any clamping surface can be trusted before you proceed. I did. I also used thin shims and pads to not influence the rod. Adding extra clamps after finishing surfaces is a good idea. If you think you may be moving the part, place an indicator on the next area to be machined as you tighten the new clamp and watch for needle movement.

[@tonyashgrove9512]

@@joepie221 Thanks I appreciate your help, I do get worried as any movement means the job ruined!

[@christurley391]

Thanks for the video Joe.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching.

[@JohnnyDee62]

Fantastic, thanks! Did you make those clamps? Been jonesing on them since I first saw them.

[@joepie221]

Yes I did

[@chrisstephens6673]

You are one brave dude in planning to split after boring the big end.

[@joepie221]

The suggested and normal practice is to bore it after you split and assemble it. I had that option as an out if my approach didn't work. I just wanted to try it.

[@richardcranium5839]

@@joepie221 your confidence is inspirational

[@chrisstephens6673]

@@joepie221 i can see the challenge, and it is the challenge that makes the whole thing fun. Planning the flat to a set size makes your method possible, but would be a challenge beyond a beginner perhaps, even when shown how. I will be a good lesson all the same.👍

[@davefieldsend1909]

Hi Joe, could you please detail the tooling plate as a future project Looks like a great addition Keep safe Best regards

[@joepie221]

Its apparently quite popular. I may.

[@brucematthews6417]

Joe, for that last cut where it's so at risk of grabbing what about the trick of stoning a negative rake on the cutting edge? Same trick as used for drills for use in brass and plastics? That should/would reduce the risk of the end mills grabbing. Of course now any end mills so modified would only be good for brass and plastics in the future. But that sort of use is frequent enough to justify a few end mills so modified and reserved for those materials. I know I keep a drill index marked "Specials" for drill bits modified in this way or otherwise modified. They come in handy.

[@joepie221]

The grab potential is eliminated when I lock the quill and raise the table. No risk.

[@dougberrett8094]

One question, not anything more. Did you do anything to take any tendency for the part to rock or twist when you clamped it? Often a cast part will have a twist or curve that if just clamped straight will spring back, causing (in this case) the end holes to be skewed or twisted from the precision you tried to machine in.

[@joepie221]

I checked the surface for flatness before going this route. I also kept the shims thin in width and only used 2 to avoid any clamping influence.

[@tarehjernetarehjerne4082]

Hey. if you were to do a 1.5mm hole, how would you ensure its completely dead on concentric? lets make it hard and say it needs to be done in toolsteel.

[@joepie221]

Ram EDM or a machine called a hole popper. Same principle.

[@tarehjernetarehjerne4082]

@@joepie221 i have been recommended that before. Unfortunately there are no small edms for me to purchase here. Are there any tricks i can do to do it on a lathe more successfully? I have also thought us using centers to hold the tube and turn it concentric, just not sure how i would support a longer tube

[@Ran-dom1]

isnt that called deflection? when it flexes? or is deflection when the tool isn't true?

[@lwilton]

Deflection is a changing angle. Since that part was bending under the down force, yes, it was deflecting. If he had been using a long cutter and coming in to the side of a part, and the cutter shaft bent under pressure, the cutter would have been deflecting. (The part may have been also.) Deflection is also a common term in naval gunnery. It most commonly would refer to the angle of the gun from some reference angle, but could also be casually used to refer to a shell that hit something and bounced off, perhaps hitting something else. But it is still the same concept, a change in angle.

[@dwightcarlson7136]

Did you make the tooling plate or is it available for purchase online or ???

[@dwightcarlson7136]

What is the description for the small boring tool and how is the size adjusted?

[@joepie221]

I made the whole setup years ago.

[@transistor754]

Nice subject for a video! Small boring bars that don't cost over $100 each! Please?

[@Thenofen]

I have two questions, first, on the larger end, I noticed it flexing just before you annotated about it flexing, why didn't you put some sort of spacer/brace/etc under the outer edge (out of the cut path) for support? second, you plunged both centers leaving a "figure 8" outline, why wouldn't you just plunge the first hole & mill over to the other center? Love your videos, keep up the good work & Happy Holidays to you & your family! (Any thoughts on the next project when steam model finished?)

[@joepie221]

My answers. Yes I had thought about pushing a wedge under the end to absorb some of the deflection, but the final cut was low pressure and really didn't move the part. As for plunging the center hole and walking each way for the slot, the tool flex direction would have been opposite per direction and could have affected the true centerline. A plunge had the same potential, but a lot less surface contact equals a lot less influence. The next project will be a miniature working metal lathe. The EL1 kit.

[@Thenofen]

@@joepie221 Ok, that makes sense, thanks.

[@markgreen2770]

I'm interested in that pallet clamp you use, where can I get one?

[@joepie221]

I made mine. They are a perfect size.

[@wwilcox2726]

@@joepie221 so many people comment about your mini toe clamps, it seems that would be a popular subject for a video. Sort of in the same vain as the mini tap handle video you just did. You have a lot of mini machinists out there who frequent your channel. Cheers!

[@Sqwince23]

Hey joe, Don't forget Bronze is a copper alloy. Not much difference between using copper on copper alloy when clamping. Not surprised that other part dented when clamped with copper.

[@rickcoleman2330]

First time viewer. Enjoying these videos immensely!

[@joepie221]

Outstanding. I hope I can earn a new subscriber.

[@ngauge22]

That is a really nice clamping setup you have and I suspect it's homemade.

[@joepie221]

It is. Its very useful.

[@dcw56]

Just got back from the family gathering so I'll watch this tomorrow, but want to say Happy Thanksgiving! Dean

[@lucasdominguezandamoyo6245]

Excellent work

[@joepie221]

Many thanks

[@ArmchairDeity]

Joe: Please proceed to part (b)... Me: NOOOOOOOOOO!!!! 😫🥺😢 - 😉😂 Seriously tho... happy Thanksgiving to you and yours. Hope your daughter could be home from active duty for the holiday, or at least you got to FaceTime or something. Can’t wait for part 2, sir... much respect, from my family to yours.

[@joepie221]

My daughter is safely on US soil. Thanks. This video finished at 58 minutes cut down from 2 hours of footage. Over 100 individual video elements. I don't know if it was harder to make the part or the video.

[@deemstyle]

Joe- do you sell the mini pallet kit? I'm not seeing it on your website. Would you consider making/selling them?

[@joepie221]

Yes. I have the plates in process, but the clamp material and jigs are not complete yet.

[@deemstyle]

@@joepie221 can’t wait!! Thanks for making them!

[@brad855]

Great video like always 👍🏻

[@joepie221]

Thanks for the visit

[@haroldpearson6025]

I would complete all the work on the big end first and locate the small end from it.

[@nutgone100]

I think I would’ve done the facing first, both ends. Con rods need to be parallel, or at least that’s my primary concern when considering con rods.

[@kgee2111]

The problem with that approach is, you may not be centered in the small end that way. There is much less room for error on the small end, start there.

[@mathewmolk2089]

Back a thousand years ago when I had too much money when we were building engines for our race cars we used the square boss on the bearing cap as a balance pad. Same thing on the rod eye. The cosset I get today, though,, is a postage scale; Still, a rod just doesn't look right without the pad. ,,,,, and an early Merry Christmas to everybody!

[@joepie221]

I agree. I may leave it for just that reason.

[@TactlessWookie]

Joe, I don't know if this has been asked. Waaay many comments on these excellent videos. Are you keeping track of the time spent on this project? Thank you!

[@joepie221]

No I'm not. At my current shop rate, it would be a very valuable little model.

[@incy55]

What is 'quill handle' in metric?

[@chrisstephens6673]

It's the same, you imperial chaps just pinched the words from us metric folks.😉

[@dreamsteam8272]

Nice done!!!

[@joepie221]

Thanks!!

[@adamculpepper5571]

Im holding out for the crankshaft video. I hope it doesnt involve hose clamps.😐

[@joepie221]

Now my hands are tied. Thanks a lot.

[@totensiebush]

I would've expected you to drill/tap and split the big end before taking the bore to final size, to ensure the hole is as round as you could get it

[@thomasaltruda]

The hole would be roundest if he split the cap, and torqued the cap back on with the screws.. there’s always a little distortion but probably doesn’t matter on this.

[@totensiebush]

@@thomasaltruda yes, that's what I had meant. attach the cap the same way you would for final use, then bore it. that's essentially how it's done on real engines (although it's usually honed rather than bored)

[@thomasaltruda]

@@totensiebush yes! I used to rebuild connecting rods at a little machine shop.. loved that Sunnen rod honing machine with automatic stroke!

[@Dubbelehalvezool]

What is a ghost pass?

[@joepie221]

A second pass with a tool where none of the machine settings are changed. This allows the part and/or cutter to relax to a ' no load' position and leave a true feature if flex was initially present.

[@Dubbelehalvezool]

@@joepie221 Oh, I thought that was called a 'spring cut'. I guess one is for milling and one is for turning?

[@allanmanning5131]

Awesome video as usual, just one question for you joe..can you walk on water ? lol

[@joepie221]

Really shallow water !!

[@philipbyrnes7501]

@@joepie221 Good answer mate 11/10 😎👍🏻

[@iandalton3839]

All the worry about back referencing from that pad? I would have drilled and tapped all the way through, split, then clearance drilled the back half. May not be the right way, but it's what I would have done. That way you wouldn't have needed the pad and it could have been sanded off.

[@totensiebush]

You say that the clearance hole for the cap screws has to be at least to the center of the bore on the rod side. Given that you're removing approximately .125 from there, wouldn't the clearance hole ending anywhere in that .125 be fine, and give the same result as running it all the way to the rod side of the split?

[@chucksterock]

I was thinking the same thing.

[@joepie221]

Come back for part 2

[@ry1295]

Nice

[@tomroskell403]

Joe love ur video's. A request,when u put text on screen, leave the words on a little bit longer please.👍

[@jostouw4366]

If you pause it you get to enjoy the videos for longer!

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

Beautiful piece, that connecting rod, as casting, but the same difficult to handle as women... Great rigging! Joe "Riggs" P....?

[@joepie221]

I'm glad the rod was parallel and straight. It made the clamping trustworthy.

[@karlgoebeler1500]

Toe clamped !!!! Not my toe It's been squashed enough LOL

[@joepie221]

Been there, done that. Toes can offer a LOT of pain.

[@bruinflight]

when you are done with this thing it will be able to launch to low Earth orbit!!!

[@joepie221]

I wouldn't want to have to pay someone to do this at this level. I'm really looking forward to seeing it assembled and running.

[@bruinflight]

@@joepie221 paying someone to do something like this...? NEVER. Every video you post proves what is missing out there today. You are part mighty academic, part radical hipster. I love every minute, and I'm learning volumes.

[@transistor754]

@@joepie221 Model engineering doesn't pay... one can't put a price on a hobby... ;-)

[@keenafyno7560]

🤙🏽🤙🏽

[@abowie1965]

And I'm going to make up a cheeseboard like yours.

[@joepie221]

I use mine more than I ever imagined I would. For work like this, its almost a required tool.

[@abowie1965]

@@joepie221 Looks to be 3" by 3/8" steel bar with 3/4" hole spacing and 1/4" cap screws. Am I on the money?

[@rchristie5401]

lol i would have bet money you could not have done that with hole that had to be split!!!

[@joepie221]

After watching part 2, you'd be putting a check in the mail. Its not the easy approach, but as you'll see, it can be done.

[@rchristie5401]

@@joepie221 i waited patiently for part two and you did not disappoint Joe. It was like magic to see the precision of it all. Your series on this small steam engine is remarkable. No doubt some youngsters will be intrigued and set their sights on the trade you have mastered.

[@thetransformatorium7980]

Second! 😜

[@alantakhir6995]

Joe My jaw hurts from droping on the floor, The way you overcome things is beyond me because your a genius and I'm not, Love your work.

[@joepie221]

Wow, thank you