Is It Impossible to Move a Hole in a Piece of Metal? No.... Watch This !!!

[@bobbyvance6622]

Joe, my mentor when I was an apprentice in 1978 told me two things I should always remember. Simplicity is the essence of design and if you can’t make it right make it pretty 🤩. I’ve never forgotten that advice. Keep up the great work, I am disabled now and can’t machine any more and live through you guys on you tube. It brings me great joy to watch. Thank you for the time you invest in making these great videos.

[@joepie221]

Simplicity is always the goal.

[@dolata000]

Yes. Your combination of perfectionism and skill is why I watch you. You are constantly improving my machining by challenging me to do better, and showing me how to improve. It's like I'm getting the best part of an apprenticeship without having to sweep your floor.

[@joepie221]

I accept beer, cash and chocolate as gratuities and bribes. :)

[@JosiahJohnson]

The best part of learning from the last gen is having them rip you a new one when you fuck up. Then they're doing questionable shit like this and moving on.

[@Suckmyjagon]

Should've smacked it with a maul .

[@ingoddaplastafeario]

couldnt agree more! I hope others that see his videos, set their own bar a little higher and learn that even small details are important. He is damn good at what he does for real and it is fun to watch the artist at work. I know i have learned a few things myself from watching his videos.

[@tandjrogers]

As always, great watching you weave your magic Joe. It's just like watching my late Dad work (passed away April 2022 aged 91.). As a little guy I used to ask "How did you know that (part he was turning in the lathe) was inside that piece of metal Dad?" I called the lathe his 'peeler'. I'm almost 70, just bought some machines and am going into business with our eldest son. I still love being around this gear. I've been in a wheelchair since I was 16 years old and I'd go nuts if I had nothing to do. Keep up the good work Joe. P.S: We live in Batemans Bay, New South Wales, Australia and I drive a Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee Limited V8 and I drive it like I stole it and I love shooting and car racing.

[@joepie221]

:) You and I would get along just fine.

[@Reman1975]

Seeing this casting just reminded me of chatting I had with an old engineer years back. He was showing me an old machine he'd rebuilt (I can't for the life of me remember what it was. it was something "Industry specific", but I can't even remember what industry that was now........ Part of me want's to say "Shoe making" though), and mentioned that he'd had to drill, ream, sleeve and re-bore a hole in a spindly curved arm that stuck out of a small, quite delicate looking, and VERY irregularly shaped casting. I looked at it and asked how the hell did he hold that (expecting him to talk about days making an intricate jig with clamps and multiple locating surfaces)? His reply was one of those "Erm.... What?" moments. He said "I heated it right up, then cast everything except the top of the feature I needed to work on in a block of lead, then I machined the lead to go in my mill vice. Once I'd done everything, I slowly cut, peeled and melted the lead back off it". It was a technique that wouldn't have even occurred to me if I'd had a hundred years to think about it. There were so many follow up question's I SHOULD have asked, but didn't think of at the time, Like how did he prevent the lead from sticking to the casting? Whenever I've had a difficult fixture job since then, that guy has always popped into my head. :D

[@slots1407]

I used to do quite a bit of IPSC shooting, and every weekend would cast lead alloy bullets in aluminium molds. I used to hold the mold over a candle flame (after preheating) to desposit a fine layer of soot on the casting surfaces. No problems with bullets sticking to the molds with that.

[@trevorwinter5071]

A lifetime in the drawing office taught me that a good relationship with the workshop staff was one of the most important in life. Their experience was to be respected and was often rewarded by them spotting an error which would come back to haunt me at the assembly stage. A reciprocal of this was that a drawing change could often be accommodated to over come a workshop error. Not all my colleagues took this attitude and had a confrontational and superior attitude to the men in the manual working departments.

[@rpaulwaddington1858]

Trevor, I agree 100% with each of your points. A toolmaker by training but worked, from the completion of my apprenticeship to retirement as a draughtdman; valued every tradesman who made what I designed/drew. Thanks Joe for your effort.

[@joepie221]

The best engineer is the one with a deep understanding of how the part will be made and by having trust in the guy doing it. It can be a very productive relationship.

[@BasementEngineer]

@@joepie221 Knowing and understanding how stuff is made, ie. the lack of this knowledge, is one of the great failings of modern engineering education. The fact that I worked for Big Blue for 5 years and obtained tool & die/mold maker certification before I began my engineering education, paid off big time throughout my professional career.

[@donmadere4237]

A true master can hide any mistake! Awesome recovery!!!

[@stevegreen2432]

Good recovery!! I thought you would get a new casting, but this was quicker, and taught a good lesson for others. I am clockmaker, and was taught that you can repair anything, so long as you can't tell when its done. This is a good example of that . Thanks for showing. I think Loctite would have been enough, but the squeeze in the vice trick is another good trick.. Us clockmakers just start with a small hammer and "rivet", with an increase in hammer size if needed! The bigger the problem, the bigger the hammer.

[@BedsitBob]

The man who never made a mistake, never made anything.

[@johnferguson2728]

Didn’t think I’d ever hear “hanging chad” used in a different context. Thanks for the shop gem.

[@joepie221]

Glad you liked it.

[@frankinpattaya]

Joe, your old boss was spot on,,,you did a great repair job,,regards Frank

[@fyx812]

GOOD JOB, JOE. I WOULD'VE LOVED TO HAVE WORKED WITH YOU DURING MY CAREER AS A JOB SHOP MACHINIST, I'M NOW RETIRED, AND ENJOY EVERY MINUTE OF YOUR EXPERTISE. YOUR "MISTAKES" COMMENT IS TRUE... KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING!!

[@donniceblakely1075]

I do enjoy watching, the man is a master in the trade. No blowing smoke. He's taught me a thing or two and I have been doing machine work for 30 years! As always it's a pleasure to watch you Joe.

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much.

[@cameronmccreary4758]

In my shop if I could acquire the part before drilling I would make a precision fixture for locating, drilling and reaming the holes. I usually had multiple parts, many orders of the same part so, making a fixture was economically viable. Reducing headaches was the, " name of that tune." Nice technique Joe, I've seen quite a few.

[@joepie221]

This seemingly simple part presented many challenges. I like fixtures too, but raw castings can be tough to fit.

[@russelldold4827]

The "save" is every bit as instructive as the original. I salute you!

[@joepie221]

Maybe more so. Thanks.

[@teamidris]

I wouldn’t do the expansion with locktite because of Young’s modulus of elasticity. Firstly because you just don’t need it, but mainly because it will shrink in diameter when you loose off the deforming pressure. I would totally 100% use it without locktite with the casting hole chamfered to rivet it right in there. Nice vid, good message, don’t panic 😱 most things can be fixed :o)

[@mole3790]

Very nice recovery. Nothing wrong with making it right. Thanks for your continuing videos.

[@williambasinger5859]

The green lock tight is for sleeve retaining and better for this application than the red or blue

[@theodoreshasta7846]

Superb workmanship! I love watching you work. Sleep well. You’ve earned it!

[@natesteiner5460]

Make the part, then make the print. In the construction world it's called an "As-Built" plan or drawing where any deviation or field change is documented. Those then become the record set.

[@joepie221]

Just don't loose the marked up print.

[@azarellediaz4892]

There hasn’t been one of your videos that I’ve watch that hasn’t taught me something, thanks for the quality you infuse into your videos.

[@joepie221]

I appreciate that!

[@drevil4454]

Joe is a perfectionist for sure.

[@georgehollowell9295]

Another masterful job. I always appreciate the "tricks of the master" gems of wisdom you provide. Thanks

[@joepie221]

Pass them on to someone new.

[@georgehollowell9295]

@@joepie221 I'll point them to your channel. You've presented so many tips that I have to go back and re-play the videos to find what I'm looking for.

[@georgehollowell9295]

@@joepie221 of course. Useful knowledge should always be passed on.

[@TheEvertw]

The word "press-fit" just got a whole new meaning... Riveting stuff.

[@joepie221]

The vise trick is a good one.

[@williamlind2843]

Brilliant idea squishing the plug. I have been thermal fitting everything for years. I love new information!!!

[@Armedlegally]

The real tip here is........"Make the part then make the print" I absolutely love it!

[@petelarsen721]

we used to call it design after fab

[@Ujeb08]

That's a nice fix Joe! Like your mentor said to you, mine said a similar statement. "Every toolmaker makes mistakes. But a good one knows how to fix them!"

[@OMGITSMRMACK]

Green is the lock tite you want for sleeves and things into place.. for anyone wondering.

[@franktuckwell196]

I am never gonna be able to do work to your excellent standard, but if i gain one little bit of knowledge through watching your simple to follow solutions, then its all been worth while. Its a pleasure to watch somebody who not only knows what they are doing, but are willing to explain it so a dummy like me can understand, thankyou once again. Mind you if i can apply these principles to wood working it would help a lot, so still win, win.

[@robertdinicola9225]

Ive done that in the field. Threaded the hole, it was steel, red lock tite a stud and re drill. The green horn listened next time i told him to do it at tbe shop to test the fit. He didnt want to assemble and disassemble before instalation. At least helearned two things that day. 1 listen to tge man thats been doung it for 20 years. 2 how to move a hole.

[@joepie221]

What....Listen to the man with 20 years of hands on experience......What a concept.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Excellent lesson, thanks Joe. I will remember that vise trick. I may even add a countersink on both sides of the hole (perhaps if the casting was larger) to really lock it in, rivet style. I have seen metal dovetails done similarly with extra material and then a peening operation. Metal is a wonderful material! Thanks again, Craig

[@joepie221]

A countersink is a good idea when the material will take the pressure needed to peen the slug. I didn't think this cast aluminum would hold.

[@ferrumignis]

Nice recovery, I'm always impressed how well the blasted surface mimics the cast surface. One query though, shouldn't the mounting holes be spot faced as the top surface likely isn't parallel to the mounting face?

[@colinfrench3776]

That's cruel on Joe's OCD.

[@joepie221]

Good call. I'll add it.

[@MalJ-eb7nv]

A very good technique. Many good techniques are not always learned from texts. "That old German guy" most of us have run into in our travels has so much practical experience he is worth listening to.

[@joepie221]

Everytime he spoke, I listened.

[@jlippencott1]

Pierre of Pierre’s Garage says “Machinists don’t make mistakes, only invisible repairs”.

[@joepie221]

I believe he's right.

[@MoondyneJoe]

Very impressive fix Joe, I used to do a lot of leather belt making (for people to wear) I would hand stamp 200 to 300 metal stamps ( up and down stamp in left hand wooden mallet in right NOT MACHINE STAMPING) some belts needed a second run to complete the pattern I was creating thus double the no of stamps, each side of the belt by hand, you get into a mechanical rhythm and each stamp is on the leading edge of the one before that process would take me approx 7 to 10 minutes to do If on a rare occasion I like most leather workers used the Golden rule, Dye covers a multitude of sins 🤔 but like you, being the maker of the product you Always knew that imperfection was there, even though nobody knew it (I always felt guilty even at the one miss out of 1000's of stamps) I used to demonstrate my skills with other crafts people in shopping centres, selling our wares and attracting customers to the centre and making a healthy income 😁 It is interesting that when you have been doing your "craft" for years the "saves" you discover or create along the way seem like magic to those not in the same craft as you are. I think that these like you have been showing us are extremely important to give others the leg up they need in desperate situations. I find that inventive side of people's skills often more interesting than the project at hand sometimes. Like a farmer has to create some Heath Robinson event out of binder twine and 100 mile an hour (duct Tape) tape to get his job completed. Thank you for yet another good tip Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺

[@joepie221]

I admire leather belt makers. Great skills.

[@MoondyneJoe]

@@joepie221 😁 likewise for excellent machinists'

[@bcbloc02]

I similarly often burnish bushings into bores to really get a tight fit.

[@joepie221]

That will do it.

[@DjClarky78]

I'm in aviation, and do a lot of riveting. Had you thought about putting a slight countersink on either side of the hole (more like a heavy deburr) before inserting the bush and squashing in the vice? You could have then filled the countersink when the end of the bush squashed over, and machined off the excess, which would have helped locate the bush more positively. We call this a double flush plug in the trade.

[@MrCrispinEnterprises]

Nice fix! I hadn't seen that trick of squeezing the insert in a vice to expand the ends. Clever and I expect it helps to hide the join. Cheers.

[@joepie221]

Thanks Crispin. Pressing a bushing into a part with only one machined surface can be an alignment recipe for disaster. This method was much safer all around.

[@garygruber1452]

absolutely brilliant. the simplest solution is always the most elegant.

[@jamesdrake2378]

the infamous hanging chad, some people are too young to remember this, thanks for the content and greetings again from the NJ Bayshore. Not to crack your huevos but I thought green loctite was used for this purpose?

[@joepie221]

I'm sure there were better choices.

[@sandersn4]

Excellent recovery...glad you decided to go with the larger centering pin. Switching to using the outside of the casting boss for your alignment surface made all the difference. Relocating the mounting holes on the main machine should be no real big deal. Great job.

[@joepie221]

You'll never see it.

[@willywonka8730]

Musta missed it. How did you get the hole centerlines perpendicular to the base?

[@Gamerock82]

You sir, are a master of your craft. Dr Pie, reconstructive surgeon extraordinaire. If I was a couple decades younger or could go back and slap some sense into young me, I'd be applying for an apprenticeship for sure. Superb fix, thanks for bringing us along for it. Cheers to peace of mind.

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@petersantoro5323]

You could 3D print this with corrections and recast it

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Great save and you are right it does look a lot better. Thanks for the video.

[@joepie221]

Thanks Harold.

[@julesslim8229]

Total amateur here so forgive me if this is a stupid question. But why not fill the hole by welding or brazing and just re-drill it?

[@KiwiBassHead]

The part is cast aluminium and EXTREMELY small so you would more than likely end up with a molten puddle of sadness in this instance. Also small relatively deep holes are very hard to fill 100% with no gas bubbles that would become flaws in the re-drilled hole and lastly, if the filler metal was not a good hardness match to the base material re-drilling a hole and keeping it straight when it is half and half in materials of different hardness can be challenging. Filling and re-drilling is definitely a valid approach in some situations but probably not IMHO the best way to approach this one.

[@hetrodoxly1203]

Easy weld job, most engineers would bush it because that's also simple.

[@troth6251]

Jules it's not a stupid question, it is one of the easy ways of going about it.

[@codetech5598]

JB Weld!

[@stanmacdonald1073]

Thank you for another great video and thank you for sharing your mistskes and well-thought repairs. You should be able to sleep well now! I love the paper punch hole center-finder. Alternatively, one could use a continuity checker to detect contact. Insulate the pin in the chuck and use a pin a mil or two smaller than the hole. Connect the continuity checker between the part and the pin. When you have no continuity you are centered. If your eyesight is poor, you can't tell your shaking hands from the pin displacement and the ringing in your ears keep you from hearing subtle clicks the continuity beep does the trick, well unless your working with Delrin!

[@joepie221]

All ended well. I have seen the continuity tester used. Like a electronic edge finder or CMM stylus.

[@SeanReevesD]

My dumbass blew my screen after you drilled the second hole in the base. 🤦‍♂️

[@rjserra5535]

A few suggestions (not necessarily in order): 1) Suggest you consider making a Bondo support fixture to hold the casing uniformly during machining. (Just grease the casting for a release agent. It works very well and you don't have to worry about breaking the casting.) 2) Loctite recommends a film thickness for thinner viscosity Loctite between .025 mm to .080 mm, (.001"-.003"). This allows for a sufficient gap for the Loctite to cure correctly. So if you went in the middle at .002" that would mean that the bushing should be undersized by .004" diameter. This hard for Joe to do since he is a very high precision machinist. However, you need to leave enough film thickness for the Loctite to properly polymerize. Additionally, too tight of a fit on the bushing will scrape out the majority of the Loctite upon insertion. 3) When you "squeeze" the aluminum "bushing" is becomes an aluminum rivet and mushrooms out at each end easily wiping out the .002" radial clearance between the bushing and the hole but only at each end. The aluminum bushing then deforms the hole outer edges for the end condition fit you are looking for. 4) A better method for locating the hole to be repaired would be to indicate the OD of the boss and ignore the through hole. Then plunge the boss with an undersized end mill. Then clean up the new hole with a boring bar to the desired diameter. 5) Loctite recommends a surface finish of around 64 RMS. This surface roughness allows for the Loctite to get a better grip. So this surface roughness should be on both the busing and the ID of the hole. 6) You should file a radius on the leading edge of the end of the bushing to be inserted into the hole. The radius will reduce the tendency of the bushing to scrape off Loctite material as it is inserted into the hole. You might argue that my comments are overkill for the this particular repair, but it always good to develop good habits when doing any kind of work. Thanks for the video Joe. It was a good opportunity to help me review how to handle these type of repairs.

[@paulrichmond8392]

You used a pin to align a crooked hole? That's why bottom looks off center compared to top,or did I miss something

[@joepie221]

Using the pin helped to keep the bushing true to the original hole. Its a space thing. The new hole was located from the outer face of the boss and top surface.

[@paulrichmond8392]

@@joepie221 thank you,makes sense

[@onlooker251]

This video is brilliant. You’ve recovered a job that we’re all familiar with - when small errors creep in and instead of throwing it away you’ve corrected it.

[@joepie221]

I considered starting over, but that would be cheating.

[@jjtt7408]

THE HOLE IN THE TOP OF THE CASTING ( THE HOLE YOU ARE FIXING ) HAS TO BE IN RELATIONSHIP TO THE TWO HOLES THAT ARE IN THE BASE OF THE CASTING , AND TO THE BOTTOM OR CALL IT THE BASE OF THE CASTING THAT IS MILLED FLAT / AND THAT HAS THE TWO HOLES THAT ARE 90 DEGREES TO THE MILLED BASE OF THE CASTING / AND THAT IS WHERE YOU SHOULD LOCATE FROM TO DRILL ,REAM OR BORE OR WHAT EVER YOUR DOING TO FIND THE CENTER FOR THE TOP HOLE (THE HOLE YOU ARE REPAIRING ) ** I NOTICED THAT YOU DID NOT USE A TOOL MAKERS SQUARE TO CHECK THE ROD YOU PUT IN THE HOLE TO SEE IF IT WAS SQUARE TO THE BOTTOM aka BASE OF THE CASTING WITH THE TWO HOLES / AND YOU DID NOT CHECK TO SEE IF THE CENTER OF THE ROD WAS IN CENTER OF THE TWO HOLES IN THE BASE (THOSE ARE THE 3 POINTS THAT HAVE TO BE IN TOLERANCE WITH OTHER ) / TWO OLD GERMAN TOOL AND DIE MAKERS TAUGHT ME LOTS OF MY TRADE / THEY SAID IN GERMANY TRADE SCHOOL TO SEE IF YOU CAN EVEN BE A MACHINIST THEY GIVE YOU A TOOL MAKERS SQUARE , A FILE , AND A ONE INCH MIKE AND A HUNK OF STEEL AND YOU CAN USE A BENCH VICE TO MAKE A ONE INCH CUBE THAT IS SQUARE AND TO TOLERANCE IF YOU CAN DO THAT THEN ONLY THEN THEY WILL TEACH YOU THE TRADE /

[@Philly_Gamer]

WHY ARE YOU YELLING!

[@DrDelvan]

LOUD NOISES

[@paulojrg]

@@Philly_Gamer He's in the machine shop with everything going on at the same time.

[@reddogknives]

Loss of hearing from 50 years in the Machine Shop

[@vazza7504]

Brilliant job there fella, patience of a Saint and so meticulous with the setting up of the different tooling process. Top job. Thanks for video, Vinny.

[@joepie221]

Thanks Vinny.

[@panther105]

Let's weld it shut and redrill..!!

[@JosiahJohnson]

Valid in a lot of jig building. Shit, beating some allthread in and sanding it pretty is often valid.

[@jerryshelton1481]

Its great machinist like you that keeps the obsolete machinery going with excellent fixes like this which is very much appreciated by your customers

[@joepie221]

Thanks.

[@firstlast8252]

Can I ask why not use an aluminum brazing rod, Fill the hole, then redrill it from there?

[@TheDJOblivion]

The heat will destabilize the metal and weaken the work piece, since the casting is so small you wouldn't want to weaken those hole walls by oxidizing any of the aluminum or changing metal stresses.

[@1nvisible1]

*And if there's only one of these parts in the Northern Hemisphere (as I frequently hear the equivalent of), Even tigging it aluminum is just so hard to see when it gets liquid vs when it just melts into oblivion, if it's recycled aluminum and has impurities sometimes they'll blow out without advance notice etc. But.. if you've got to do this to fifty parts (because someone is paying of course), I would do it your way*

[@inspector1794]

Thanks for showing the rework. A good lesson and great result.

[@orangedream267]

There IS loctite specifically for fits like this. It's the green stuff. Works aight.

[@BjornV78]

The color on Loctite products means nothing. Loctite 270 and 290 are also green and not the right ones, those are suited for locking threads. The one you meant is Loctite 648, suited for fixing gears and cylindrical parts. Loctite has a very wide range of products in 4 colors. Grtz

[@matspatpc]

Very good! I've certainly made mistakes, and on occassion fixed them by using a bushing, but not as invisible as that. If someone pulls the plastic plug on the end of my motorcycle handle-bar, it is knurled - because it was just a little too loose, and I didnt want to redo it just to add 0.1mm (4 thou). Has stayed in there so far - since October or so, I think. And that's about 2500 miles on various race-tracks.

[@jodystradesstuff5048]

This is the stuff that I made money on as a welder. Just fill it in with weld metal and the machinist can drill it out right.

[@kevinhaley8625]

Great work on the adjustment sir

[@kjamison5951]

"Is It Impossible to Move a Hole in a Piece of Metal?" Yes. Is it impossible to use a repair method to relocate a hole in a piece of metal? No.

[@StuartsShed]

Excellent demonstration of the bushing repair. Important to remember that the part was not actually failed in the first place, this is simply adjusting to make better use and balance of the casting material. The net result is a superior part of course. Inspiring - never settle for second best. Thank you again Joe.

[@joepie221]

Never settle.

[@olalavesson8157]

I don't think I've ever seen anything more "backwards"

[@joepie221]

Stick around.

[@paultidswell2981]

Beautiful work Joe, I love this stuff and I’m a wood worker.👍🏻

[@kjoyner1]

Since the material was aluminum, I would have considered prepping the original hole and then pouring an aluminum filler. The finished product would have been the same but without the possibility of a blowout.

[@camiemengineer]

Seems a good solution, Ken .. but then no demo video! How would you have prepped the hole? what if the melting points were slightly different due to impurities? (would you get the equivalent of a "dry joint")

[@mhc6777]

Thanks again Joe. Expanding the plug in a vice is yet another Joe Pie tip I wish I had thought of - I've threaded or peened in more robust parts but hadn't thought of gently squeezing the bush/plug in more 'delicate' parts. Mike

[@brandonedwards7166]

Tig weld it, drill a new hole. simple.

[@Chris-5446]

That's exactly what i thought too at the beginning of the vid. Lolol

[@brucehart4627]

Me too

[@hetrodoxly1203]

It would depend on what mood i was in as it would have taken me about the same time to do both ways.

[@joepie221]

I'd put money on the fact that tig welding it would have blown it away.

[@hetrodoxly1203]

@@joepie221 You'd have lost your money, that's just everyday simple welding to me.

[@BasementEngineer]

Well, when I served my apprenticeship waay back when with Big Blue, we were taught to put the oversize hole in exactly the required location, sizing this bore the way Joe P. described in the video. Then simply turn a bushing and glue it in place with Eastman's 910 glue or epoxy cement if the mounting was fragile. A sliding fit provided sufficient space for the glue or epoxy, especially when both the bore and the bushing were coated with the adhesive. For punch and die work the bushing was heat treated and made a press fit. Eastman's 910 glue was the precursor of instant glue or Crazy Glue, and was developed for medical/surgery purposes.

[@joepie221]

Big Blue in what state?

[@BasementEngineer]

@@joepie221 In Toronto, Canada, and Rochester in Minnesota. Also visited a new plant in San Jose, Calif. at that time.

[@MichaelMoranGearHead]

This video was full of great tips. People in every occupation make mistakes. The ability to make those mistakes invisible so they do not matter is what separates the professionals from the amateurs. Thank you for giving us insight into how some of that is done in machining.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching. I hope its helps someday.

[@campbellmorrison8540]

I'm amazed at how that blasting merged those two totally different materials together, I would have bet the brass would have stood out.

[@joepie221]

Both pieces were aluminum, just different densities.

[@lordphullautosear]

It's a pleasure to watch a machinist with the right knowledge and the right tools. Nicely done, sir. Subscribed.

[@joepie221]

Thanks and welcome.

[@wallbawden5511]

i knew that this would bug you till you found the right fix for it was hoping you would use the squash fix as i was taught this also by my mentor at the time and have used it a couple of times thanks for showing again as i have not used for a lot of years

[@joepie221]

Its a good thing to see and remember.

[@wallbawden5511]

@@joepie221 must admit until i seen you doing it i remembered it so was a forgotten gem on my side but have not had the chance to use it either

[@TomokosEnterprize]

I have faced this problem too many times to count. Generally from other mechanics treading where they shouldn't have been in the first place. Nice tip on the squishing of the repair slug. We had a fleet of older D8 dozers that were all affected with their R hand Rear engine/torque converter bolt holes in the frame all pounded out/stripped etc. My go to for repairing them was to drill and tap for an over sized 1 1/2 inch Grade 8 NF bolt. I stopped short of running the tap all the way through leaving a tapered hole on the bottom. I took that bolt and made a slot around it and after a good dose of red Loctite screwed that bolt into the freshly tapped hole and turned it in place till it snapped off proud of the hole. It was just a matter of decking it and re drilling and tapping for the 1 inch coarse mounting bolt. 10 tears later the repairs were all good. I have used this method om many more repairs over the years. That old mag drill and I saw a lot of repairs over the years. Great fix my friend. My granddad always said, "only the pro's can fix their mistakes". Words I will take to my grave.

[@joepie221]

Its also always easier to fix if someone hasn't butchered it before it lands on your bench.

[@TomokosEnterprize]

@@joepie221 It was rare that by the time it got to me it was easily repairable. It was like getting an engine in a couple boxes. It often would take a 1/2 a day to semi blue print them to see wat I was in for. Missing fasteners were always a problem. Then wait while a decision was made to repair or scrap. I would often save some pieces for the rare days I had time to poke away at them. Those successes were the biggest feather in my cap. I would rather just call it a short day and just go home. A win, win for the shop and myself. It's always nice when we chat as we have walked a similar path. Take care eh.

[@williammills5111]

Joe- the only guy that makes no mistakes is the guy who does nothing. Great recovery, thanks for posting!

[@joepie221]

Technically, the part was to print, just not cosmetically aligned. Not acceptable.

[@nhrifle]

I've done that a few times in both metal and plastic, works like a charm. Nice demonstration.

[@hossanderson643]

Thanks for showing a Mistake. I've been watching you for quite a while and your abilities are absolutely incredible. This is why I am so pleased for you to show a mistake, and then how to fix it. I wish more KZbinrs would show their mistakes and how they fix them. I feel that most humans learn much more from mistakes than from seeing perfection each and every time. This is one of the things that I enjoy about Blondiehacks so much is her humility and showing mistakes and alternate methods. Please Do Not take this as a criticism, but rather as a Huge thanks for the showing of a problem and solution from such a master machinist. Your teaching is world wide known and we appreciate it greatly. Thanks Hoss

[@joepie221]

The part was actually to print, but cosmetically it just wasn't up to the standard I want to hit. It was a good opportunity to show the adjustment. Thanks for watching.

[@77.88.]

You are the results of many, many years of experience, Thanks for passing it along!

[@joepie221]

Its been my entire life. First full time machinist job in 1975.

[@ChrisB257]

Vive le fix Joe - you definitely won this round! Very nice work sir and super satisfying :)

[@joepie221]

I'm pleased.

[@joeldriver381]

Very nice recovery!

[@aaronholmes8568]

Brilliant to watch a skilled craftsman at work. Great problem solving and explaining what you're doing and why. I trained as a heavy truck mechanic but I've always admired engineers.

[@joepie221]

Thanks 👍

[@andrewcampbell4396]

As a self taught butcher on the lathe and mill I have followed Joes vids for some years now I would still be considered a butcher by machinists like Joe and most others, but he has taught me so much its not funny. I do not profess to be a machinist and was never trained as one. I work on a lathe that is actually older than me if you can believe that, but it is still possible to achieve tolerances of 1 thou given enough time. For what I do that is expectable. One of the most enlightening videos and the most beneficial to me was,( perfect set up poor/shit results). Its really good to watch videos of those that actually know what they are doing. Truly a man that understands his environment.

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@Amaysing79]

Thank you, Joe. very nice work.

[@nigesbasementworkshop9541]

Great job Joe and thank you for publishing your recovery of this part, it makes us all better machinists.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. I saw value in it.

[@arthurirwin8235]

I would never thought to press the bushing with the vice. Great job!

[@joepie221]

The vise only expanded the slug. I technically pressed it by hand.

[@arthurirwin8235]

@@joepie221 LOL!!!! I should have caught that!

[@TheUncleRuckus]

I love that little shop gem, that's s great idea!! I'm definitely going to add that to my repertoire. 👍👍

[@joepie221]

Its a keeper.

[@cavalieroutdoors6036]

"A good toolmaker will always make mistakes - but no one will ever be able to find them." I was once told the same regarding mechanics. It's interesting how much cross over there is among some trades.

[@grahammorgan9635]

Hi Joe, lovely to see the shop gremlins have found their way to your shop , just momentarily, instead of residing in mine, great recovery and great result, I learn heaps from your videos so thank you for sharing

[@joepie221]

Those gremlins are always looking to start trouble.

[@greglaroche1753]

Glad to see you used some Locktite, but squeezing the bushing like a revit is a neat trick to know. Thanks as always for your videos.

[@joepie221]

I don't usually use loctite for things like this, but thought it couldn't hurt.

[@monkfry]

Like that slight squish, vice spring trick, plugging the hole while blasting yadayada. Good stuff as usual.

[@joepie221]

Thanks 👍

[@adamg8588]

You speak so specifically that while i know very little about this type of work, i could not only comprehend, and i was not only educated, but i was exceedingly impressed

[@joepie221]

Thank you for that. I once wrote medical technical manuals. Orthopedics.

[@MichaelLloyd]

That was an outstanding repair. I couldn't see it when you were done. I admit to cringing a little as you compressed the plug and milled it but it worked like a charm.

[@joepie221]

I was gentle on the squeeze, but held my breath too. It worked out well.

[@bertbergers9171]

Great job and solution too. If the part does not accommodate for the spec’ed dimensions find out if the mating part will accept adjusted dimensions and then adjust. Think you did great! And without having to throw away the part. Loved the press fit on the bushing too!

[@joepie221]

Controlling the assembly does have its advantages.

[@andrewostrelczuk406]

I’ve been thinking about a DRO for both my lathe and mill / Drill, both are used / and Abused so accurate works would be nice but I think it would be better to get new machines... I’m a Happy Hobbiest at most. But losing sleep with my nose in the Shars catalogue... Not the electronic version... I still love to look at dog eared pages ! Thanks for putting this video up and I’ve gladly kept all of my fingers and toes where they belong! They don’t quite work with me on occasion but I’m gonna say it, getting older is a challenge. Having held the 2nd most dangerous peace time Job in the Army for 13 of my 20 years, heavy Construction equipment repairer.

[@angelramos-2005]

The idea of the expanded plug is brilliant.Thank you.

[@joepie221]

thanks. Much safer than a full length press fit.

[@LTVoyager]

Yes, we call it riveting in the aviation industry and it has been around for a long time. 😁

[@angelramos-2005]

@@LTVoyager Thank you Sir.It is very kind of you to let me know.Take care.

[@MostlyIC]

Nice work !!!, I always use "wicking grade" Loctite for parts this small and with such little clearance. I have taken apart pieces that I'd previously used red Loctite on but found after disassembly that the liquid didn't flow, there was only Loctite on a fraction of the contact surfaces.

[@joepie221]

I'll have to read up on their products.

[@sierraspecialtyauto7049]

Nicely executed repair. I've done the same a number of times, but never on something so small. BTW, it was a great pleasure to meet you in person at the Bash.

[@joepie221]

I enjoyed meeting all you guys. Without supporters and subscribers, KZbin channels are nothing.

[@brenwyattm0rij909]

Nice work Joe and thanks for sharing that little trick. People who comment negatively should start their own channels, if they are so good. Keep it going Bud !

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Will do.

[@blacquejacqueshellaque6373]

As an engineer who works in the field a lot, we have "made the part and then the print" many many times. As long as the math all checks out, I have no issues stamping something an experienced mill wright, mechanic, or machinist has made. Most times it's better than what I could have come up with.

[@joepie221]

Agreed.

[@johndevries8759]

Nice tip on the press fit and expansion of the insert. Another tool in the tool box, Thanks

[@joepie221]

Especially since this part only had 1 machined surface prior to installation. Thats a recipe for misalignment.

[@geomark41]

Well, we all knew this was coming. What a great lesson. Thanks mate.

[@joepie221]

Yep. Never an option.