John Deere 285 Runs 30 minutes, then dies: Fuel Obstruction, Replace Fuel Lines, Clean Fuel Tank

[@L35inColorado]

Timestamps and Part Numbers: 00:26 Diagnostics 01:46 Instructions on removing the body panels 05:45 Remove the hood 07:50 Fuel system overview 08:58 Replace PCV hose (John Deere M118833) 11:03 Starter location, spark plugs (NGK BMR4A, gap 0.024-0.028") 11:18 Fuel tank info; grommet (John Deere M149638) 12:55 Fuel lines (can replace with Armor Mark 50057 or other 1/4" ID hose) 14:03 Looking at the hydrostatic pump and transaxle 15:05 Replace fuel cap (John Deere AM117525) 16:02 Notes on the fuel filter (John Deere AM116304) 16:38 Using Oetiker (ear clamps) on the fuel lines Oetiker Clamp Product Guide for 167 series clamps (shown in the video): www.houseneeds.com/upload/pdf/oetiker-steplessclampstech.pdf 18:57 Reassemble the fuel tank 21:32 Install the fuel tank 22:19 Replace the fuel lines 23:53 More notes on the fuel filter 24:16 Install the body panels 27:55 Test run (bypassing the safety swtich) 29:45 Install the side steps/foot rests 32:55 Install the seat 34:43 Install the plastic panel 35:04 Install the ball handle and lever boot 35:48 Install the adjustment knob 36:58 Install the hood DIY Oil change on the John Deere 285: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqeQdoOvhc1lqsU I hope this video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!

[@727vanna4]

Co les truoc xe rav4 96

[@matthewbender9912]

After watching this (about 3 times) I had the confidence to attempt this repair myself. Thanks to you, I was able to get my 88' 240 running reliably again. Thanks for making this!

[@L35inColorado]

Wow, that is wonderful - great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )

[@georgpaulkroschel310]

I have a 285 in Germany whit the exacly same problem-Thx for the Video , i will try it soon 🙂

[@L35inColorado]

Wow, I hope this solution works for you - thanks for watching from Germany : )

[@kirkkw]

At 15:05 you said the fuel cap wasn't venting properly. The description of your engine running and stopping is exactly what I experienced last month on my Scag mower. My diagnostic efforts were flawed as I changed the fuel filter and then checked fuel flow to the carb. It was good so concluded there was a carb issue. Ordered a cheap carb and installed it since the carb was less expensive then a few minor parts for the original Nikki carb. Then it dawned on me that I had never checked the venting on the fuel cap. I discovered that one of the caps was not venting. I think that was actually my problem and not anything to do with the carb. I opened up the original carb and found nothing that appeared to be a problem. The float and need valve were both good. To clear the obstruction in the gas cap, I forced air through it by blowing through the cap from the inside vent port. Subsequently, I mowed the complete yard without issue.

[@L35inColorado]

Yes, that's a great point -- a similar problem was noted in the forum about this John Deere and others. When the fuel cap vent gets clogged, it can cause the engine to stall. Thanks for adding your tip!

[@kirkkw]

@@L35inColorado Not sure which forum you are referring to but gas tank venting is a problem on older motorcycles. Google kirkkw (at yahoo with a Com) and you will find me on motorcycle related stuff along with my youtube channel.

[@L35inColorado]

@@kirkkw Hey, cool, I will check it out! I think I saw the fuel cap venting problem mentioned on the Green Tractor Talk forum, but I can't remember -- it was a John Deere forum, I think.

[@brodrick3164]

Thank you for this my 1986 is now running again. The rubber boot has clips holding it on that are easily removed by reaching underneath.

[@pgmurray76]

The best I have seen. Actually, I think you are the only one! I have a 1989 JD 260 that looks like a show tractor in 2022. Still troubleshooting why mine starts a little then dies. It seems to be fuel as it does start after sitting, then slowly fades out after a few seconds. I dumped 2 gallons of fuel in 15 minutes begore it died randomly while mowing. Great smooth power for 2 months up until that point. I wish I had a spark checker, not that taking out a plug, turning off the fuel valve is hard.

[@L35inColorado]

I hope the video helps for your 260 - you might have a similar issue as we did, with the fuel line obstruction. Another issue we had in the past was that the 285 would struggle to start, then idle low and die out as soon as the PTO was engaged (even while standing still). I pulled the spark plugs and they were soaked in fuel, so I knew it was a fuel pump/delivery issue but rather a floating issue. The solution for that problem was the carburetor float needle. I took the carb apart and checked all the jets - the carb was actually pretty clean and the jets were not obstructed, so I replaced the float needle (probably the original). The end of the float needle has a rubberized coating to seal to the seat: I suspect the needle wasn't sealing the seat. With the new needle, we haven't had any problems, so I did need to make a few adjustments to the throttle/idle plate. I hope that helps -- good luck! : )

[@pgmurray76]

@@L35inColorado Wow! Thank you for the detailed analysis of two issues! I was waiting for new gaskets to remove the carb - I had cleaned the bowl, which had silt at the bottom. I want that carb off. Before I take it off I need to pop off the fuel supply hose and see if it is pumping. Then work back and bypass the mesh disc filter. Somehow I cannot believe a 70micron filter could magically plug, but I will make sure if there is no flow to the carb. I probably hit the lottery with an obstruction.

[@Hear-MeoutTwo2]

Wow, what a fantastic job. I have a similar problem and now I believe I am ready to tackle it.

[@kirkkw]

By the way, I failed to say that you produce great instructive videos? I have a 1997 RAV4 which I bought new, sold to my Dad, which Mom gave to my sister when Dad passed in 2014. She drove it daily. About 2 years ago she got a new car and gave it back to me. Since then I have thoroughly gone through it and changed about 75 parts. Valves did not need adjusting even at 127K miles. Last month I got it inspected to start driving it again (it had been parked more than a year) and the very next day the check engine light came on. Code P0401 so your videos on the EGR will be most helpful. Luckily it didn't appear until after the inspection. Lucky, might not be the right word?

[@L35inColorado]

Oh wow, I'm glad the videos might help! That's very cool that you've had the Rav4 in the family since '97. It sounds like it is in good hands! Since your Rav4 was sitting for a year before (and I'm assuming that it didn't have the code/check engine light before), perhaps check the vacuum hoses and electrical to the VSV as a quick first start. I say that because I'm in a rural area, and I let my Rav4 sit for about 1 month once. In that time, a squirrel ate some wiring (in my case, the wiring to the intake air temp sensor), which caused a check engine light. Mice and squirrels have lots of fun with sitting cars! Luckily the Rav4 has very simple wiring (though some is hard to reach). Another thing to try, if you don't see anything obvious, is to clear the code (or just disconnect the battery), then see if the code returns. Good luck! Thanks for leaving your tips, too!

[@KenHorton-h6k]

I have to say that was the best learning content wow.

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you! I have a couple other videos on the JD 285 on a playlist, if you're working on yours: www.youtube.com/@L35inColorado/playlists Good luck and thanks for watching! : )

[@hoddy2001]

great video. Whats the thumbscrew on the fuel pickup tube for? Is it a shut off? I'm worried mine is leaking air into the fuel line.

[@L35inColorado]

Yes - that is just a fuel shut-off, for use when storing the tractor. You can bypass it altogether, if you'd like. If it's helpful info, we leave ours open all year, though we do use the tractor all year (mower deck in summer, snowblower in winter), and haven't ever had a problem. I hope that helps - good luck!

[@nicholasclinger1737]

Hi again 😄 Could you send me your type and Viscosity of the oil you selected when you serviced your L 775 drive Chain case and verify quantity max is when oil reaches filler plug hole?? Thank You 😊

[@L35inColorado]

I have an L35, but I think the L775 is the same. For the chain cases, I use this: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-grease-and-lube-premium-sae-80w-90-gear-oil-5-gallon-780-05/7070950-P?searchTerm=80W-90%20Gear%20Oil That is SAE 80W-90, which is the modern replacement for the SAE 90 that is spec'd in the manual. The L35 takes about 2.5 gallons in each chain case, so that 5 gallon bucket will do both sides. You'll know a side is filled either by measuring and adding 2.5 gallons, or when the oil level reaches the oil level check plug -- the check plug is *not* the same as the fill plug. The fill plug is the large, square-head, vertically-oriented plug on the top of the chain case, near the idler adjustment parts. The check plug is the small, square-head, horizontally-oriented plug on the side of the chain case, between the wheels, lower down on the case, a few inches from the bottom. That small plug is where you check the level: when you have about 2.5 gallons in the chain case, the oil level will be about at that plug. I hope that helps -- good luck! I think this might be covered in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZ7FlGuie913sKs

[@nicholasclinger1737]

@@L35inColorado Thank you so much... you're awesome 👍😎 Thanks for the link... I'll watch it for sure!!!

[@baddmaxx25]

i have a 240 that starts to lose power after awhile. i suspect either a clogged line or the shut off vavle going into the tank is sucking air

[@hoddy2001]

what happened? I'm also losing power after some running and I see air in the fuel lines. I'm wondering if it's my fuel shutoff valve at the fuel pickup.

[@KennethFKlein]

do you know or do you have a service or diagnostics manual for the 285? im currently having an electrical issue where the starter won't crank unless you use jumper cables from the battery directly to the starter. and funny thing the other day it would start using a jumper cable but today all it will do is crank. so im sort of at a loss of what It could be.

[@L35inColorado]

Yes, this link has the FD590V manual, as well as some other engines used in JD's of this era: www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FD440V-FD501V-FD590V-FD611V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf As for your troubleshooting: review that manual and see if there's anything obvious, but off the top of my head, I would have the battery tested (I'd remove it, and take it to an auto parts store like O'Reilly's, Autozone, or Advance that does free battery testing). The reason is because I've had situations (in automotive repair) where a dead cell in a battery can cause CCA to drop too low to crank, even though voltage at the posts will show 12.7V. So, because it is easy and free, I'd be sure to rule out the battery! I hope that helps - that's just a place to start; if you don't have an auto parts shop nearby to test it, then perhaps you can swap in another known good battery from another engine. If you can definitively rule out the battery, then next I'd troubleshoot the grounds and the connectors at the starter and battery terminal, to rule out a bad connection. If that's okay, then I'd move to the ignition coils, using a spark tester to see if both cylinders are getting good spark. If they're actually getting spark, then I'd be thinking perhaps it is not an electrical issue but rather another problem (just continue down the F-A-S-T method of troubleshooting for confirming fuel, air, spark, and timing). Also be sure to check out Taryl Fixes All youtube channel, because he has a lot of videos on the FD590V and other Kawaski small engines, including a rebuild for when the plastic camshaft eventually strips. Good luck! : )

[@jagco2594]

What's the fuel pump pressure on this.

[@L35inColorado]

I'm sorry I missed your comment - if you're still looking or this info, check out this other video I did recently on replacing the fuel pump. You can see the test procedure here at this timestamp, including fuel pressure specs: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXnCZKuhgaaAb5Y Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )

[@musill7776]

Hey what kind of spark plug does this run?

[@L35inColorado]

The 285 with this Kawasaki FD590V engine uses NGK 5728 spark plugs. The gap out of the box is usually good, but if you need to gap, the gap is 0.024 - 0.028" (or 0.6 - 0.7 mm).

[@EdBlutarski-qp4um]

Deere should consider hiring you to make training videos

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )

[@richochett404]

no volume

[@scottcopple2779]

I can't hear what you are talking about