John Deere E130 Easy Oil Change, 30 second test run - Seriously?

[@walterrhoads6410]

Ran into the same problem just now! Was afraid to use the tool, didn’t want to damage anything. Great video and I’m back in business!!

[@GorillamansGarage]

Thanks

[@employme2]

We purchased are John Deere 130 last year. Glad I found out how to change the EASY CHANGE system. You saved me some aggravation😮 Thxs.

[@GorillamansGarage]

I made the conversion. I just changed the oil after the winter storage.. O.M.G. ... The oil was literally like water.. A full change is 2,8 litres and I used the cheap $6 Fram filter. So oil & filter cost me about $24 CDN.

[@ypepmf]

As an older lady - when it said EASY - thought I could do it. But its very tough for me and I didn't get it on there good and oil leaked out. It was a mess. Its not as easy as they say. I need to get some of those grippers.

[@sptrader6316]

I used the quick change twice(40hrs on it now). The first time was a little tricky to get the filter to lock in place. The arrows didn't exactly line up with mine, you also have to push down as you rotate the filter in place. The second time I changed it, was very fast. I'm now converting to a traditional filter to save money and to remove ALL of the oil.

[@climatedeceptionnetwork4122]

I had a lot of trouble getting the filter off and screwed on. I will keep it because at my age it no longer matters; if I were 20 years younger, I would switch to the traditional.

[@johnandersen9219]

Thanks for the Video! About to change my S130 for the first time & I wondered about the Zip-Tie!! Also will pump out all the remaining crankcase oil so it’s a full change👍 Thanks again… 👏👏👏

[@sptrader6316]

To drain the rest of the oil, there is a drain plug on the right side of the engine. I put an extension pipe on mine, to make it easy..

[@Nick-NY]

I just picked up an S130 today with the easy oil change. After watching your video, I went out to see how difficult it is. It was pretty simple. I wonder if over time it gets more difficult to remove due to heat, dirt…etc. Mine also had a zip tie. I’ll eventually convert it to a normal oil change.

[@GorillamansGarage]

I have had the E130 for a few years now and I change the oil every Spring. I have had time to think .. I would say I use my E130 about once or twice a week (at most) during the summer months for about 1-2 hours at a time (So a Mild user). It is mostly used between May to September. I also understand it is basically a fancy little lawn mower engine, air cooled etc and does not get abused. So I can now see the use of the quick canisters even though they only change out about 1/3rd the oil. Yes a little more expensive but if only done once a year its a lot easier and quicker and no mess. I remember having other ditch lawn mowers for years and years and years and never changing out any oil at all. In conclusion.. If you can get the canisters for a decent price and you don't use the tractor much.. I can see the attraction. Yes doing the refit and changing all oil & filter is much cheaper.. but along with that comes time & effort. If you use the tractor a lot (like 60+ hours a season) then yes I'd convert (because you'd be changing oil a few times a year). Oops.. rambling again.. In short.. Having had to change out the oil a few times after the refit.. I can see the attraction of the canister if its only once a year in the Spring. I find it takes me the better part of a day to change the oil & filter, remove the cutter bed, clean it out , sharpen the blades, do a maintenance check and grease everything up and Spring Cleaning etc. Some would happily pay the Small Engine folk $300 to do it every Spring as well.. All depends on which camp you belong to I guess. 😁👍👀

[@1rightrev]

YES! Exactly!!! This John Deere innovation sucks. Yesterday I went to change my oil (30 second oil change) for the first time. WARNING-- This should warrant criminal prosecution! It took myself, and my BIG robust, strong neighbor, over an hour, with 2 calls into John Deere and 3 different service technicians saying "Yeah...WE HATE THE THING!" They had NO suggestions other than to say, "They are a PAIN!" They had NO suggestions after we told them all that we did. We too used a heavy duty strap wrench. To no avail. If we had one more pair of hands, it may have only taken 30 MINUTES. NOTE--I watched 3 videos to be sure I wasn't doing something wrong. Shame on you John Deere!

[@Windytune]

Dude - I finally got the old one off, and I could not get the new one on. I ended up just putting the old one back on so I could get my yard work done. Holy shiz...

[@francoisdubois3576]

Having the same problem. A lot of trouble getting the oil filter off and now can't get the new one on!!

[@Windytune]

@@francoisdubois3576 I ended up having to use a giant pair of channel locks

[@sptrader6316]

@@francoisdubois3576 You have to line up the arrow on the filter with the arrow on the filter mount (they don't exactly line up but close) . Once you get the hang of it, it's very easy.

[@haroldcarlson8297]

changed over to old method spin on filter...but it leaks. Any answers to that??

[@GorillamansGarage]

The filter or the spigot ? I have not heard of any leaking before.

[@paulrevere4326]

How about draining the old oil?

[@GorillamansGarage]

The engine holds 2 litres of oil. The canister only 750ml. I did the conversion and now remove all the oil every Spring.

[@wcalh]

Thanks for the video. I could see remove the original filter so I had to buy a wrench. That made the whole job easier. I trust the John Deere system and expect the whole job will be simpler next year.

[@GorillamansGarage]

For sure 👍

[@michaelumstead7401]

So basically it’s just changing the filter not the oil?

[@MrBob-vc4qd]

Bought an S120 this summer and before storing it for the winter I did the oil change. This system sucks. Had to use a channel locks to remove the old filter then replaced it with the new filter. Pushed down then rotated clockwise as hard as I could, the arrows are close but don't line up , it won;t turn any further. I guess its OK since its not leaking. Also replaced the spark plugs, had them gaped correctly but now it seems to be running rough.

[@GorillamansGarage]

I got a free filter with the tractor but will be doing a conversion in the spring.

[@sptrader6316]

It's not a screw on filter, it's just a small twist to lock type. (1/8-1/4 turn to lock).

[@oscaresquivel7786]

Size oil on S140 39 hours? Please 🙏

[@GorillamansGarage]

The quick change can only has 750ml of oil. A full change is about.. 2.7 litres.

[@victormartiny7599]

what percentage of the oil gets changed?

[@GorillamansGarage]

About 1/3rd (750ml).. but as it is just really a lawn mower engine , if you changed the canister once a year.. I'm sure it would be fine.. main thing is the cost and how much you use it. Mine does not get used through the winter and maybe once a week June to Sept. I did the conversion but if the canisters were 1/3rd the price.. I may have reconsidered.

[@waterskiing6414]

more importantly, how much of the oil did you actually change??

[@GorillamansGarage]

Its actually only about 1/3rd of the oil capacity.

[@samjackson884]

The arrows don't line up. I pressed down and turned until it was in place.

[@GorillamansGarage]

I tried, but it wouldn't go further.

[@mudbutton2]

Partial oil change....

[@GorillamansGarage]

Yes.. only 750ml of a 2 litre capacity. (Less than 1/2).

[@climatedeceptionnetwork4122]

Nice, instructive video -- thanks. Knowing what I know now, I would not have bought this tractor. It came with the "easy change" and rather than shop more, I dived in. I'm sorry that I did. I had much more trouble than seen in the video.

[@GorillamansGarage]

It cost me less than $20cdn to change it over.

[@LittleCabin]

I had the exact same problem the first time I attempted to change mine -- I did not have a filter wrench with me, and eventually gave up until I could get a wrench on it. No way it was coming off by hand.

[@GorillamansGarage]

LOL.. right :) .. I'm gonna spend the $5 and get the filter thread bolt to change over to regular filter. As this Easy Change one only circulates (changes) 1/2 the oil in the system.

[@ryanjackson6249]

I was skeptical at first too, but I'm guessing you also pushed down on the filter while trying to twist? I found that you can't push down on the filter while rotating. Doing this causes the filter to rub against the screws for the quarter turn feature. If you simply twist, without pushing down, you should have no problem removing the filter.

[@DavidJones-fw1sz]

Heading to Lowe's right after my grandson's baseball game to get that wrench :)

[@davidstill754]

@@DavidJones-fw1sz There's no wrech needed on John Deere's new big Green filter!!! What part of no tools needed did you not understand? Just push down on it and turn to the unlock position. If its your first filter change you need to remove the black zip tie that John deere ties around the bottom of the filter first. This is applied to just show its the first filter. No need to apply a zip tie again

[@sptrader6316]

@@davidstill754 Yes, it seems that the first time is the hardest, after that, it is very easy, no wrench needed.

[@bowtihi6830]

I see a few people leaving comments about changing over to a conventional style oil filter. is there a kit to do that, is it pretty straight forward. I assume there is a drain at the bottom of the engine ?.

[@GorillamansGarage]

Yes there are kits. But you really only need the 2 sided filter bolt. The easy filter mount just screws off and you put the 2 sided bolt in there and it accepts the regular filter. Tons online about it. This Fall I am doing it.

[@sptrader6316]

The drain is on the right side of the engine, easy to access. Kits are available, easy to do.

[@vts5618]

Oh my goodness! Thank you for your video. I got a big ol blister trying to get that stupid filter off. And wasn't even successful. So mad! But I feel a little better knowing it wasn't just me having a hard time because I'm a woman. Now I'll have to go buy one of those filter clamps you used. Thanks!

[@gumbiemon]

I just did mine to. Not so easy. Maybe it will get easier with time??

[@GorillamansGarage]

I agree... It does get easier.... but why go back to a stick when you have been driving an automatic for years?? That is the crux of it all.

[@rs91803]

The paperwork in the box with the new filter tells you about the zip tie they send from the factory.

[@jaredkelsen6695]

Thanks for your video without it I would have not been able to get the oil canister off my mower.I had to find a tool similar to the one you used toget the oil canister to turn, most people would not have something like that in their toolbox. The plastic tie holding the canister in place wouldn't have helped either. Also good that you gave the size of the socket needed to remove the side guard, saved time having to find the right socket. Other videos I looked at are not realistic, they were obviously not showing the very first time an oil canister had been removed from the mower.

[@GorillamansGarage]

I went to the John Deere dealership.. and it is the cheapest place to get the parts for the conversion. I spent less than $20cdn for the spout , converter plug bolt and a filter. I use cheap 10W/30 oil so I have that already. But next Spring I will drain the oil first before removing the filter :)

[@apollomoon1]

It seems that the filters are not consistently made. The steel rim that contacts the springs are thicker on some and don’t allow it the fit under the locking tabs. I got my old one off easily and couldn’t get new one on. I finally put a furniture clamp on it and gently compressed it to meet the casting tabs in the housing. No way it was going to fit under the locking tabs. Bought another filter and it easily snapped in place by hand. Compared them and the ring on the one that fit was thinner. Otherwise good system. 45$ Crap shoot on the filters tho.

[@GorillamansGarage]

: I recently converted the system for about $18cdn. Now a oil/filter change is about $$25cdn

[@scorpio1155]

Thanks for the helpful video. Being a moron, I actually read the instructions that came with the replacement filter and they clearly indicated that the OEM tie strap needed to be removed (first time only). What? It actually pays to read the instructions? Ha ha. Now that I know how to do it, I love the system! Thanks again!

[@GorillamansGarage]

It is a convenient approach although expensive. That it only replaces less than 1/2 the system oil is my biggest concern.

[@209rafita]

I think a filter wrench would help

[@shooter3288]

So let me get this straight? You don't drain oil & refill like normal?

[@GorillamansGarage]

No.. but I will be :)

[@shooter3288]

@@GorillamansGarage yea i just saw there is a conversion kit to switch to regular oil filter. I'll probably go that route lol

[@davidstill754]

No. Not with the large expensive filter.

[@haroldcarlson8297]

Slight oil leak where the spin on traditional filter goes on.

[@GorillamansGarage]

Usually that is a warped filter or it was put on dry.

[@pvc3179]

I’m considering purchasing one. Are you still happy with it? Any belt problems?

[@GorillamansGarage]

I just did the oil filter conversion. Seems to run better. Overall.. easy to take deck off, clean & sharpen blades. Runs great and not that noisy. Was either this or a Kubota.

[@pvc3179]

@@GorillamansGarage seems silly to not be able to drain all the oil. With that in consideration, I’m thinking of just buying the 100 over 120. Thank you

[@GorillamansGarage]

@@pvc3179 : I have bout 1/4 acre of grass around the house and I chose the E130 for the 2 cylinder power etc. It cost me about $15 (cdn) to do the conversion. But found out that the easy change can only has 750ml (Pop can full) of oil in it and the system when drained has 2,5 litres. (over 2 quarts)

[@RMartin631]

If you push down on the filter while turning it, the filter comes right off by hand. I also noticed that you didn't remove the other 1 and 1/8th of a quart of used oil that is left in the crankcase. Oh, and don't use automotive oil in a small engine. Small engine oil contains extra zinc to help protect internal parts that come into contact with one another. The pushrods, the lifters on the cam, stuff like that.

[@GorillamansGarage]

Good to know.. what do you recommend?

[@RMartin631]

@@GorillamansGarage, I'll use either Kohler or Kawasaki. Whichever I can get for less.

[@DavidJones-fw1sz]

Had the same issue getting the original canister off; thanks for pointing out that secondary strap that needs to be removed first (along with clipping off the zip tie that it comes with from the factory). Definitely need the extra leverage of the strap wrench. Extremely helpful! THANK YOU!

[@GorillamansGarage]

Glad it helped

[@iwanaGoFast2010]

You only change 1/4 of the oil with that. The filter media is the same size as a standard filter. It cost 3 times as much to change the oil for your engine to last 3 times as less lol.

[@GorillamansGarage]

The conversion cost me $16cdn.. which included a filter

[@M70ACARRY]

The filter media is actually twice the size of a standard filter. Several videos on KZbin showing the filter dismantled.

[@iwanaGoFast2010]

@@M70ACARRY BS it’s just a regular sized filter. Maybe it has more pleats but it isn’t longer.

[@FlukeTog]

Yea I’m converting mine back. $55 now and they don’t change the oil inside. Only a bit

[@GorillamansGarage]

It is an easy fix and also very cheap to do.

[@eddieh2753]

I thought you were timing a 30sec oil change. You didn’t drain the oil. You only timed how long to change the filter. Haha

[@GorillamansGarage]

Yes.. that's about the size of it.. the canister only holds about 1/3rd of the oil capacity in the engine.

[@ViCtOrZ803]

Tried to watch this at work and as soon as the porn music came on my boss came running to see what I was watching.

[@GorillamansGarage]

Oops... I have to get hold of my Audio settings better... :)

[@jylp4u]

LOL 💀

[@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024]

I won't buy an E series just because of this reason, and also eliminating the separate choke lever. Starting a cold engine wide open is absolutely stupid!!

[@JustinBaine824]

I just did mine. Didn't stay in, oil everywhere 🤬

[@GorillamansGarage]

The conversion is what I have to do.

[@sptrader6316]

It shouldn't leak 1 drop of oil.

[@Willy7212]

Really liked your video. I just don't see how that could remove all the original oil from the crank case. But if it will help peaple to change their oil easier and more often, I suppose it's a good thing. I think for the long life of an expensive piece of equipement the old fashion way is best. Thank you Mr. Gorillaman.

[@GorillamansGarage]

The capacity is 2.8 litres... the canister has 750ml in it... do the math??? I guess in essence.. its really only a lawn mower engine . I have gone years without changing some of those :)

[@ryanjackson6249]

Why are you pushing down on the filter? Pushing down just increases the friction between the screws and the bottom of the filter. You made this WAY harder than it actually is.

[@GorillamansGarage]

The first change was difficult. The 2nd was easier.

[@jp-us9rq]

I have a e 130 also.pretty good machine but I changed mine over so I can use a regular oil filter and the oil I waunt I cant believe john deere did that leave most of the oil in the machine that's not good I dont waunt to make anyone mad but that's just my opinion I use john deere oil fter 8 bucks and Castrol 5w30 full synthetic for like 6 bucks 14 bucks and better oil

[@GorillamansGarage]

I would like to know how you did that/ I wondered how JD thought it was good to change just 1/2 the oil once a year. I guess yu need an adapter plate. I never looked to see if there was an actual low end drain plug.

[@jp-us9rq]

@@GorillamansGarage go online and type in john deere conversion kit it's real cheap

[@sptrader6316]

@@GorillamansGarage JD sells a conversion kit for about $25 to make it fit a traditional filter. 20 min job if you take your time.

[@davidstill754]

Ok, let's get a few things straight about this new "wonderful " filter. First things first, it costs you around $45 and I fail to see anything wonderful about that and It only gets worse. Once you've received your brand new E or S series mower you need to change your oil filter after 10 hours of use. Its in your manual and ANY new lawn mower engine you purchase you should do this. Why? Any NEW engine has a break in period, the new moving parts inside the engine will begin to smooth and shave/ wear off the rough edges (so to speak) to better fit and smooth out during its first few hours of use. This is all quite normal. The reason you change the oil after 10hrs of use is important. Those shavings / tiny Particles of aluminum end up in your oil. If you don't change your oil after 10 hours of use you run the risk of these particles getting hot enough to start sticking together and possibly causing damage as it moves around in your engine. Now here's the rub with your "wonderful" $45 oil filter , it doesn't remove all the oil from your engine... Wait! What! Yep your engine holds roughly 2 quarts of oil. Your "wonderful " $45 filter on its best day only removes about half of this. So basically every time you change this not so wonderful filter your leaving about a quart of dirty oil inside your engine. This on its own is the worst design flaw of this stupid filter. So guess where some of those shavings that are now in your oil after your initial break in period are.... yes, still inside your brand new engine. Its bad enough to do an oil change and leave half the dirty oil inside it but particularly worse during the break in period. Now there is an oil drain PLUG on the other side of the engine but unless you have a 8 point socket its not that easy to remove and once you do get it removed there's no drain pipe like on other John Deere engines so your oil is gonna run all over the place. WAIT a second here! Isn't this new wonderful oil filter supposed to be quick and easy? Tool free removal? Mess free? Well technically yes it is, BUT and thats a big ole but (lol) it only is if you change about half the oil in your engine and this my friend is why this fancy super expensive oil filter is nothing but JUNK in my opinion. You can and I think you should convert your oil filter back to the more traditional type of oil filter. Its not hard or expensive to do and there are plenty of videos on you tube to show you how and don't forget to toss the drain plug and add the drain pipe to drain the old oil from your engine mess free. You dont want to void any warranties your new engine has so please contact your John Deere dealer before doing this to insure you are still covered. One final thing.... this filter is NOT a briggs and stratton thing. It was designed and requested to be added to these engines by John deere. This is important for you to know. John deere wanted this new $45 filter added to the Briggs engine. I can think of about $45 worth of reasons why. Hope this helps you out.

[@GorillamansGarage]

100%... Exactly the point... The conversion kit is the only way to go. Thanks..

[@viddisplay]

I bought the conversion kit at John Deere and paid $38.00 for the kit and 2 quarts of oil. It took about an hour to install it on my S120. Runs great, no leaks and now I know all the oil gets changed out.

[@stratocaster1greg]

Thats great my new mower needs work already.

[@God_is_my_savior-316]

I paid $80 for the can. Seems expensive.

[@GorillamansGarage]

Yes..so I paid $16cdn for the conversion and an oil filter.

[@frontyardfirewood]

Leave it to John deere to make even an oil change lame and cost more. What's worse is my new filter will not seat. The arrows are off slightly, I hope it's just a miss aligned sticker. Been working on papès bull crap for years

[@derpderp112]

conversion kits FTW

[@coffeefanatic7857]

Lol I had same problem. Yanked on it till realized there was a tie strap holding it. Even without that I had to struggle to get it off and putting it on it never clicked liked they said it would and doesn’t exactly line up Took me 40 min. Put the conversion kit (35$)that changed it back. What a crappy system

[@GorillamansGarage]

I agree. I'm just gonna replace the filter bolt.. $6. And call it good.

[@truthof7382]

In 2021 I bought a new JD S120. I was very happy with it. It cuts great, is very comfortable, came with a 42” deck and 22hp Briggs. I pull my spike aerator and my leaf sweeper in the fall. I cut about 1/3 acre of grass and put 27hrs on the tractor last year. I fully intended to change the 30 sec oil change over to the conventional. THEN, I started watching videos and reading online about the hydro transaxle in these 100 series tractors, and how they aren’t built to pull anything bigger than a spreader, and aren’t even made to cut on a hill. So no spike aerator, no leave sweeper, because it dramatically shortens the life. It’s obvious that these lawn mowers are built under the guise of “pre-planned life span”. Particularly the hydro trans. That life span for the 100 series is between 250 and 350 hours, when your nice to it. Now I know there are those out there who will tell you about their “1000 hrs and going strong” but there are plenty out there telling you about “200 hrs” and the trans is shot. On a lawn like mine, that’s 8 to 10 years. Not to bad for the price. But apparently I’m abusing mine with the attachments, so maybe 4-5 years. At first I was pissed because I bought a John Deere for a reason. But these models are not John Deere tractors. They are priced to compete, lawn mowers and that’s it. So, I’ll just sell my JD riding lawn mower before 150hrs, with my fingers crossed, because that is all they are built for.

[@GorillamansGarage]

Thank you.. very interesting. True, and not much is built to last anymore right?

[@davidstill754]

Ok, I see and hear this all the time about John Deere transmissions being junk. The Tuff Torque transmission they put in the D, E and S series aren't junk. Definitely not the best transmission in a mower in a comparable price range but Definitely not junk. The boy who mows my neighbors yard has D110 with 1488 hrs on it and still going strong. Way past what I expected to see . There's several reasons why the hydro transmission goes out early and about 80% are the owners fault for doing stupid sxxt with the mower. The other 20% fall on the poor design of the front steering design. In a nut shell if you want to know the best way to care of the rear end/ transmission than take care of the front end. If your wheel bushings are worn replace them. If the front end alignment has one front tire rolling straight ahead while the other is pointing towards the right or left , replace the old drag link with a New adjustable one. Do the proper maintenance on the deck spindles. Grease the front spindles and wheels. ALL of this helps the longevity of your transmission....and yes you can use attachments on your mower without fear as long as you realize its not a tractor but a mower. Take care of your mower and it will last you a long time. Its not a gear drive Transmission its a hydro and they will wear out quicker on steep hills, pulling a boat or other oversize items. Use it for what its ment for and its possible to use for 15 years. Lots of L120 and L130 mowers out there cutting grass and made in 2003 to 2005 with 700hrs or more

[@davidstill754]

@@GorillamansGarage thats true. Tuff torque could have made all the transmissions serviceable but 50% of the people don't even change the engine oil and those are usually the one's who cry the most about the longevity of there mower. Granted John Deere could have put adjustable drag links on the mower new but they don't. They want you to BUY one from them. Its just the way the world operates now. Pay more and get less

[@M70ACARRY]

If it's so good, then why don't they put it on other mowers.

[@GorillamansGarage]

I can see if you were a retired casual user.. change it twice a year. But then again.. it really is but a large lawn mower engine and those things (Briggs) last forever. So I see the appeal to some segment of the market. But if you want to try and get 10-15 years out of it... I'd convert it. (I did)

[@neildudley5446]

A good reason to stay away from the easy change oil model, get a conventional one instead, my old saying work smarter not harder.

[@chrisbertj]

I’m pretty sure he broke his mower. All you need to do is push down and turn. Emphasis on PUSH DOWN and then turn

[@GorillamansGarage]

Nope.. but I just converted it for & $15cdn.

[@Ryezn5057]

@@GorillamansGarage where did u get the conversion kit? Also in 🇨🇦

[@GorillamansGarage]

@@Ryezn5057 : At the local John Deere place... super cheap. :) Hint: Drain all the oil be4 you take off the filter. Tip the tractor up on its side b4 you start. I did not and oil spilled everywhere.

[@nickgalante621]

The music is terrible and way too loud for the presentation. You failed to mention the fact that you replaced the nylon cable tie around the lip of the canister after installation. You failed to mention if you should run the mower for a minute or two BEFORE changing the oil? But other than that you did show the need for special attention as you attempted to remove the canister in the beginning so that was helpful.

[@GorillamansGarage]

Very true on all counts. Spring is almost here and I think I will do the conversion and be done with it.

[@smauller623]

Get ya some man hands

[@VK4VO]

Get rid of this junk filter. Your engine never gets clean oil with this system. The sump holds more oil than the filter. 60% dirty crud oil mixing with 40% clean oil from the new filter, not a good idea.

[@GorillamansGarage]

Already done.. cost me less than $20 cdn which included a new filter :)

[@rickraub5448]

Can you change this to a normal oil change system? I don’t like the idea of keeping old oil in a new $3,200 mower.

[@yourexcellency7774]

😂 30 seconds LOL that was longer than 30 seconds more like 3 or 4 minutes

[@GorillamansGarage]

It took me 1/2 as long to convert it and less than $15cdn. Now it's 2.8 litres of oil.. a filter and about 15 minutes of my time.

[@Hawgfrog]

This is such a ridiculous idea. Is it really that hard for people to change oil?

[@GorillamansGarage]

And in Canada the prices go from $70cdn to $109cdn,,, I spent $15cdn for the conversion (nipple & tube)... now a complete change will cost me about $25cdn.

[@sptrader6316]

Most people won't bother changing oil. I think that's why the easy change system was created. At least some of the oil gets changed and a new filter.

[@kingsman6074]

I payed $61 dollars Australian for the pleasure .

[@GorillamansGarage]

Those filters are now $110cdn. I just bought the conversion kit.. $34cdn. ( including a filter).

[@autopeep24]

Had same problem, system sucks. No doubt Oboma EPA driven design

[@michaelmoon4248]

TERRIBLE.......

[@Daddykiddocandyreview]

So I assume this is oil and filter all in one?

[@GorillamansGarage]

Yes.. only changes 750ml.

[@merikatools568]

A blast of 70,s porn music

[@GorillamansGarage]

🥳🤷‍♂️🕺