Building the universal Stereo amplifier TDA2050 Part 1

[@EngineeringEssentials]

Thanks

[@deviantmultimedia9497]

You are a rare breed, John. An electrical engineer with a great ear. Those TDA2050's sure do sound excellent. I've been looking for a place to buy genuine. Thanks

[@amitghosh6966]

I also still want to buy the originals but no success till

[@robertneill3057]

The ic is verging on obsolescence thanks to the Class D amplifier modules available. Could try Farnell, Digikey or Mouser. 2 further UK suppliers are Cricklewood Electronics and Rapid Electronics. Operation on a single polarity supply is possible with the output coupling capacitor and a biasing T network of 2 × 22k plus 1× 100k resistors on the non - inverting input. This network is decoupled with a 47uF capacitor across the lower 22k resistor.

[@deviantmultimedia9497]

@@robertneill3057 The TDA2050's have been obsolete for a while now so they're not stocked by parts retailers. I think the only 50+ watt non-class-D amp chips still in production are the TDA7*** series and the LM3886. They are hanging on for dear life lol. Probably because there are still enough products in production that use them. A lot of active studio monitors and guitar amps use the TDA7923/4's. I've seen some studio monitors use the LM3886 and they are also popular in the hobbyist market so maybe that's why those are still alive. I use 7293/4's a lot and they sound great. On paper and under test they out-perform the 2050 but there's something about the 2050 that sounds so sweet... Confirming that the ol' saying "if it can't be measured it can't be heard" is BS. Don't get me wrong, I am a science-minded person, but I also believe in magic. To NOT believe in magic is unscientific if you think about it.

[@willyrivero470]

TDA amps are also my favorites, thanks John for doing this project, I will be following your videos.

[@peterjones2411]

splitting the rail this way is a bad idea if you are going to bias the input from the same point with a 15v supply and output to just shy of clipping you will have around 30mv of signal ripple that is present on the non inverting input this isn't just noise it's in-phase noise so you are asking for trouble. so now you have input decoupling to mess with. better to use 2x10kR and 4.7 or 10uf and have a output cap with load to ground. you gain nothing your proposed way it's the opposite of improvement over a couple of resistors and small caps.

[@TheTrueVoiceOfReason]

11:46 old school spring clips! PE has the single channel square cups on sale (seemingly continuous) for $0.19. 😁 Looking forward to the next step.

[@indridcold4210]

This will be very useful to a lot of people. Thanks John

[@keithblume5159]

class AB rocks!

[@akhilvijayan2933]

Hai Sir, Informative video.... Could you please do a video regarding passive crossovers. That is low pass, band pass and high pass filter crossover(active?). Could you please demonstrate the pros and cons of the same also..... Thanking you

[@briangoldberg4439]

Did you ever consider using one of the newer TDA mono amps? The TDA7296 is about the same power output and is still available.

[@iblesbosuok]

I suggest to use TDA1514 a.k.a ECG7118 a.k.a NTE7118. A little bit higher output power and better performance.

[@g-whiz286]

In the spirit of being "universal", have you considered replacing the single Schottky diode with four Schottkys in a bridge configuration? That way, it would not matter if the power source was AC or either polarity. Anything would work. I have several old "wall warts" with AC outputs. Also, I would a add a couple low ESR ceramics (0.1uF and 0.01uF) in parallel with your big power supply electrolytics. This ensures you have a low impedance return path across the entire audio spectrum.

[@davidahmad6090]

Very informative, thanks John.

[@ergindemir7366]

At low currents the balancing resistors might work, but at high currents V+/V- will be determined by C+/C-.

[@amitghosh6966]

What should be appropriate values of resistors and capacitors if I want to operate this circuit at 24-30 Volts , 2 Ampere transformer supply?

[@ergindemir7366]

@@amitghosh6966 I think the values in the video are ok. But you need to match the caps for a proper symmetric operation.

[@amitghosh6966]

@@ergindemir7366 Ok. Have you made this circuit? If yes, are you getting good quality and watts sound of it? I want to know 2) Do you think if this amplifier is powered with single supply as on datasheet, it will give same power output as on split supply?

[@ergindemir7366]

@@amitghosh6966 No, I only use dual transformer power supply for these kind of chips, I don't like output cap. If you have a single power supply I recommend STA540. For proper dual power supply I recommend tda7294. In short, I don't recommend this chip and power supply.

[@amitghosh6966]

@@ergindemir7366 Ok. So it means Single power supply won't output maximum power from these Chips and this virtual ground power supply will also not be suitable for outputting high power from these Chips

[@andymouse]

Nice one John !...cheers.

[@amitghosh6966]

I have questions- 1) Does this have any difference in sound quality (distortion) and power output when powered by Real ground and Virtual ground? 2) Does the sound distorts when maximum Volume turned up?

[@TheTrueVoiceOfReason]

John, I know you've already talked about why you don't do pcb boards at home, but there are a number of alternative methods to the "standard practices", such as cold toner transfer, muriatic 4c1d/hydrogen peroxide etchant and small hand drill/dremel press for holes. Sure, you'd need a laser printer, but a plain B/W one can be had for super cheap. And the rest of the stuff mentioned is rather inexpensive as well. I have aplaylist that has a number of these methods shown, so if you are interested, you can peruse "PCB Boards at Home" at your leisure.

[@dexterperucho90]

Hello sir, Can you review the Tpa3118 mono amplifier? Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge

[@DAVIDGREGORYKERR]

What about a 5W Class A amplifier using 2x 2N3055 metal cased power transistors and 1x BC212L plus 2x1N4007 diodes and a few resistors and 9-12V @1A should be loud enough.

[@robertneill3057]

Add a BD 139-10 transistor and you will have the components for the John Lindsay Hood Class A amplifier circa 1969.

[@berniejames5419]

Have you thought of offering assembled amplifiers for handicapped people such.as i? I have 4 assembled stereo amplifiers and I runtime at +17.90vdc and it's

[@Theineluctable_SOME_CANT]

Love your channel, man!

[@t1d100]

Cool

[@DanLizotte]

Hey John, you thinking 3300uF times 4 is enough for supplying one chip or a stereo pair?

[@mamadtrboy3552]

Hi please test TDA7388

[@overbuiltautomotive1299]

i looked at ST data sheet it say can be used in Single or split supply operations love to see that used i guess its a simple switch up to an electronics guy but i am still not up to snuff on understanding that mess and why choose to use that set up to power it vs single..Thank you for all your stuff i got an extra 250 watt sure amp board that need duel supply be neat to run it off -,+.i have the other one swaped in a old receiver i did that way back in 2015..darn nice board .It would be neat if you tooled around with one and talked about chip swaps i read about some ar on about being better 2 x 250Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board - IRS2092 /part number SKU-AB32291

[@godfree2canada]

LM1875 ?

[@JohnAudioTech]

What about it?

[@godfree2canada]

@@JohnAudioTech they can be swapped pin for pin?

[@JohnAudioTech]

@@godfree2canada Yes, the LM1875 and TDA2050 can be swapped. You do have to consider the difference in operating voltage limits and difference in some of the components used with the chips.

[@chesaudio5430]

hey John great project on the good old tda 20*0 . I have been using a 12volts transormer for the TDA20XXs where I split one secondary leg to go to the two AC legs of a FB rectifier, and the other leg as ground. This because I always have to feed a small cooling fan and a Bluetooth module from the same transformer. Now, is there any hidden danger/problem in using the transformer that way? Thanks

[@gopofirst3602]

TDA2050 is class B amplifier.Watch out its 7% higher efficiency than the efficiency of lm1875 .The lower thd and imd and higher instability when compared to lm1875 is due to the lower idle current, basically half of the idle current of lm1875.

[@leiferickson3183]

Cool! Thanks for posting about this - it is still in production.

[@gopofirst3602]

I sent you a linkedin invitation to connect.corneliu

[@Sctronic209]

I have that same power supply.

[@bobking7347]

Wish you used a chip that is still being made

[@JohnAudioTech]

You can substitute in the LM1875. It would need 12v or more to work properly.

[@bobking7347]

@@JohnAudioTech Thanks for the quick reply

[@godfree2canada]

TDA7297 ?

[@godfree2canada]

also cheap

[@VIPINSAINI_20]

Well UTC TDA2050L is available easily and Much better option prices wise

[@1pcfred]

Are you learning KiCAD?

[@JohnAudioTech]

I downloaded it months ago but never installed it. Too much other stuff going on.

[@1pcfred]

@@JohnAudioTech yeah it takes some time to learn how to use KiCAD. I haven't used it in a while myself. But when I did I remember there was a specific order of operations to do to create a board. Knowing that was the key to success. It went something like draw a schematic, associate components with footprints, generate a netlist and create a board. The two steps in the middle aren't exactly intuitive either. But once you know, you know.

[@EngineeringEssentials]

My method of finding original parts: If it is an over-current protected product, create an overcurrent situation. If the product is original it will survive overcurrent, otherwise will fail. I know there are better ways, but I like dramatic conclusions 😅