Jointing on a Bandsaw | Paul Sellers

[@gusfavoreto2966]

That last adjustment on the fence by eye, right in the middle. That is what experience is! Amazing!

[@BernhardMasterson]

Thanks for this. I don't have space to add a jointer to my shop. One more reason to love my bandsaw. And one more reason to celebrate Paul Sellers.

[@tedbastwock3810]

Paul is a genius at explaining while doing in live time.

[@NotMe_NotMe]

First time I’ve seen Paul use a power tool! He’s amazing.

[@imager8763]

Just beyond my brain power how you come up these brilliant ideas!

[@alexguest9937]

In all fairness, when I've been doing that kind of work with irregular faced timber, I don't bother with gluing fillets on to the ends, then have to plane them down. I normally work out what the twist actually is (4mm in this case), then halve it, to even out the offcuts to both sides as you did. Then just glue or double-sided tape little splints or pads to the 'lowest' side to bring them level. No planing necessary. That was a lovely fresh, sharp bandsaw blade you were using though. No deflection of the blade. I used to make garden furniture out of boards of English oak, then have to deep them down on a bandsaw like that. About 10" was the widest cut I used to have to do I think, from memory. As oak is abrasive, the blades used to wear dull quite quickly. Then as you passed the boards through, the blade would deflect to one side, but only in the middle of the boards! The blade would go in at the right place, but when you finally cut the board through, there would be a distinct bend in the cut which grew as the cut got deeper. Sometimes the blade got so dull and the bend got so bad that the thing would bind completely in the machine! "New bandsaw blades please boss!"

[@SoundsToBlowYourMind]

It's quite possible to re sharpen a band saw blade using a bench grinder. I usually sharpen a blade about 3 or 4 times and it cuts like a new blade afterwards, but eventually, the teeth become uneven or too short and it really is time to throw it away and put a new blade on. With a 3 tpi blade, for my 12" band saw (blade length is about 93" x 3 teeth per inch, that's about 279 teeth to be sharpened, at a rate of about 1 per second, so around 5 mins is all it takes. 4 tpi x 93" = 372 teeth, which takes just over 6 mins. Anything more that 4 tpi it gets a bit tedious!

[@zimmermanlandscape9287]

Even if the blade is out of alignment he just showed you how to reduce the hand planing from 30 minutes to two minutes. And you don’t lose more thickness than absolutely necessary

[@awol5626]

Thank you Mr. Sellers !! from Ontario Canada

[@mpjotor]

This is amazing! The only tool I will have in my hand tool shed is a bandsaw and a drill press, so versatile.

[@kz.irudimen]

I hope it's a nice bandsaw, good luck doing this with a modern entry level saw

[@Mikey__R]

I've got pretty much the same setup! A 14" Record saw, an Axminster drill press and my Holtzapfel style workbench I had to cut down to fit in. I'd love a bigger workshop, but I'm at least one home move away from getting enough space to build one, and I've still not unpacked from the last move.

[@Ham68229]

Paul, this is wonderful. I've seen this done on a planer, never on a band saw. In fact, didn't think it could be done on a band saw, great video as always, cheers :) P.S. Hope the your hands are working better and healing up after the surgery. :)

[@brolovski_brodog]

Great video as always. I don't have a band saw.... one day maybe and I'll resurrect this video.

[@danielh12345]

Thats what I do for all his videos haha. I'm gaining knowledge for the eventual day I have a workshop (read garage/ shed/ any place) to get started on woodworking haha. I find it fascinating, just don't have a good space to really start yet. Did get the router kit already + bought an old handplane to restore. Some day... haha

[@flacch]

Neat trick indeed. A small notion If I may: It looked, to my eye, that saw blade is not easily going into "second half" of the twist as the blade got some support from the board while it enters the "second stage". Would it work to flip the board for the second half to give the blade little bit more to bite into?

[@gbwildlifeuk8269]

No, you'd create wander.

[@TedStJohn-vz9jr]

Most excellent! Now I need to take some scrap through the process to really understand how it works, but it sure looks good to me!

[@KunoGroHoldertreff-B12]

Dear Paul, Thank you for always sharing your great expertise expertise with us! 🙂👍

[@christelmuller9198]

Hallo Paul, gutes Video und ich habe wieder was dazugelernt. Ich wünsche dir ein schönes Wochenende ☺️👍

[@timmyfields6159]

Your skill and talent never fails to amaze me sir. Great tip.

[@fredpierce6097]

I have a short, thick somewhat twisted but beautiful hickory board that exceeds my jointer in width. This technique seems perfect and I can’t wait to try it.

[@nickyork8901]

If it's a wide board just make sure you have an excellent ripsawing set up on your bandsaw first - not as easy as he makes it look!

[@fredpierce6097]

@@nickyork8901 ok

[@kd9856]

Paul is truly a master of his trade I hope that he had many more years of enjoyment in it as I have myself God bless

[@johnford7847]

Thank you very much. It's clear that a bandsaw is quite useful even in a primarily hand tool shop.

[@Mikey__R]

That's why I got mine. I built one guitar, doing all of the deep rips by hand, and knew I had to get a better tool for the job.

[@LustigWoodworks]

What a great tip ... thx for taking the time to make this video. Ingenious!

[@sebastianaussenhofer5960]

Thanks for this nice video. I might try that once if I don’t want to waste expensive woods. That being said, I tried numerous ways to joint boards. In the end i got a proper power jointer and thickness planer. It’s an expensive but also major improvement. I’m just not as good with hand planing as Paul.

[@MCsCreations]

That's just genius! Thanks, Paul!!! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊 And happy holidays!

[@captsanjayrao]

Good one Mr. Sellers. Nicely executed and explained.

[@Tobsen660]

You have mentioned this method before and since then I was curious how it would look. Great, thanks

[@michaelcima5772]

I use something similar with a thickness planer. I only have a six inch jointer so my 12.5 inch thickness planer is used to make one flat side on highly twisted wide boards. I glue wedges to the board like Paul showed. That side goes on scrap plywood and then through the thicknesser. If the board does not have much twist, then a hand plane is probably faster. The highly twisted material is available as seconds at my hardwood supplier. Also, some of the best figured wood, not surprisingly, dries to produce some remarkable twist.

[@Art-is-craft]

As long as your wood is stable when flat you can get put one side through for a flat reference and the flip it over to get parallel.

[@jimshaver898]

Simple and totally makes sense, a genius

[@bleargh22]

Wow first time I've seen you use a power tool

[@GWA-r8r]

Turning the Board lengthwise and presenting it from the other end ,where the Bandsaw has to cut more would Show your method in perfection. I admire your lessons on woodworking so much.

[@randycosgrove3608]

I don't know if this is your idea or something you were taught. Doesn't matter. It's a great technique. Thanks for sharing. Always pick up a good tip from your videos.

[@Ramplcro]

Great idea. thank you Paul. Just a one question for bookmatching - I suspect that that after the last cut there will be some tension released (reordered) and the wood will move. Assuming the wood is dry, how much time should one leave these 2 pieces to "rest", before touching them with planes?

[@roadtriplover.]

That, Sir, is the most helpful thing I’ve seen. I’m new to hand tool woodworking and I’m super keen to really keep myself to hand tools, bit I’m already finding that there are ways I wish I could decrease effort in prepping my boards. I don’t have a bandsaw, but I really think I may need to buy one now! Anybody have a good bandsaw you want to sell for a song? 😀😁

[@FlyinSwabbie]

Nice winding sticks!! And a very informative video, conveyed a lot in a reasonable period of time.

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

So well explained and beautifully executed thanks Peter

[@daveb7999]

Very nice, I don't have a jointer, so your method using the bandsaw gives me one more option to take the twist out of a shorter board. For longer boards, I can still use my thickness planer with sled, but ... I always prefer using the bandsaw where possible, but didn't know about this method, so learning this is a very helpful tip. Thank you, Paul!

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

Paul, you could make a little stand (e.g., a stick with a ball on top) for your respirator mask to keep it upright when not in use; it will keep the dust out of it.

[@disqusrubbish5467]

Very handy tip! Thank you.

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

So good to see you back, Paul, with hands that are healing up nicely!

[@Macron87]

I wonder if this was filmed before the treatment he’s had on his hands?

[@raymihurtadostuart7052]

Could you save a step by gluing a small 2mm block to the opposing “low” corners, and then go straight over to the band saw? This way you don’t need to plane down a tapered shim on both ends of the board

[@AAArrakis]

I suspect it would be more difficult to adjust should the thickness be not exactly 2 mm

[@vharboe]

Very good idea, Paul!!! Ps: I know you have a vacuum based dust collector from Record Power. I would highly recommend looking into their CamVac units. I built a noise baffle for mine, and it cut the noise level remarkably! It is still loud, but not the high pitched screaming noise. The CamVac units is, as far as I know, the only units you can do this with because the exhaust comes out of an exhaust pipe (ome per motor). I have written about it in my blog and have demo videos on my KZbin channel if anybody are interested.

[@gebuh1]

Does the edge have any effect on this? Does it have to be perpendicular to the cut surface?

[@Control-Freak]

I have been taking a plane to the whole face of the board, this could be a real time saver.

[@Clark42EoC]

Thank you, Paul

[@dandelie2067]

Excellent information. I want to bandsaw but only have room for a 10". It would be nice to consider having one though.

[@AAArrakis]

Wow! This is great! I noticed you did not pay attention to the edges. Are they 90° square? What would you do if not? Thanks!

[@theeddorian]

The method works well, though I would flip the cut piece end-for-end to finish the cut to limit any wobble in the cut due to the blade warming up, or my being impatient and forcing the cut too fast.

[@adambrinded70]

What face-shield/respirator is that? Looks so much less bulky than the one I can find!

[@tjerkheringa937]

Clever trick!

[@cheekkeith74]

I kinda do the same thing here at work, but with bondo pads. Only because it's readily available here. But that's a method I could use at home, for sure.

[@DonsWoodies]

A genius idea.

[@marcbarash6045]

Thanks Paul

[@JimmySpencer-z1x]

Thank you so much❤

[@horsetowater]

Excellent thank you!

[@jds4935]

Paul, what is the product you spray out of that spray can??? Thank you!!

[@martintheron1386]

Hello Paul,can I use a compound for stainless steel,to strop my plane blades nd chisels

[@Raedodd5]

In this case using say 2 x 1/2" square by 2mm thick wooden pads glued on opposite corners would save having to plain a taper along the whole length.

[@dpmeyer4867]

Thanks

[@likeakite]

very clever

[@michaelvenditti5982]

Paul you have been an insparation to me and allowing myself to use hand tools. However since I see you using a bandsaw I'm curious to ask "In your foty plus year of woodworking what is the most serious accident you have incurred?" Thank for the great videos you post.

[@Octopusbeak]

I feel obliged to speak- forgive me. A few friends have lost fingers on table saw. The common advice is, if it feels sketchy on table saw just don't do it. There is always another way. I would like to add the drill press, chain saw, and hatchet/axe to that list of tools to not gamble with. Honorable mentions to band saw, angle grinder, and jointer, which operate with less vengeance, but are not tolerant of judgement lapse. Dad's advice: don't do two illegal things at once. I think this mentality applies to tool danger too, e.g. don't pin the circ saw guard out of the way while also on a ladder.

[@carlitoneumann886]

We just about died when you fixed the variation from bandsaw kerf.

[@doncc6080]

Awesome

[@MG-vo7is]

Nice.

[@paultay23]

Superb.....

[@pinview8519]

Wouldn't be even simpler and faster by simply gluing 2mm wood pieces on the opposite corners, instead of 2mm strips? With a wide board fence on the band saw, it should work. Anyway, brilliant idea and skill from Paul as usual, it is always a treat to watch.

[@wouterengels7769]

I think the bandsaw is the next machine on my list, but first I need a new house so I can make a workshop at ground level, rather than two floors up 😅

[@roman_le]

That's a way. However, it requires good big bandsaw, because small saws has a tendency to drift.

[@trevermccall6762]

👍

[@paulneeds]

Metric AND a power tool - great! I’m not able to use a plane either effectively or for too long, so this could be very helpful. A key here is also the speed at which the bandsaw is fed - feed too fast would re-untrue the board more. But as I have a thicknesser / thickness planer, I’d use the wedges on a sled to feed through that and true the twist that way. I think. Probably. 😊

[@davegardner2258]

If using this methord make sure the blade is cutting on both sides. If one side only becomes dull the blade will wander and this is almost impossible to stop.

[@rauschguitars]

Watching this, thinking about how I could use a bandsaw to bookmatch guitar tops, only for Paul to bookmatch the piece. I'll need to buy one, someday. Until then my frame saw will have to do.

[@ehisey]

Bookmatching is a strength of bandsaws.

[@sigogglin]

I agree I also follow the English Woodworker and he also said a basic bandsaw is his only power tool.

[@Toby94]

So it doesn't matter if the side is not square to it's face?

[@AABlindSquirrel]

No. Only that the reference you created is pressed securely against the fence.

[@jonesey1981]

Does anyone know the name of that helmet?

[@nicetryfbi357]

Ever since I follow Paul,I regretted buying a tabnle saw instead of a big bandsaw 😭

[@TheMikeymcg]

Amazing idea. What bandsaw is this you are using?

[@colt1954]

The first cut i'd have thought the blade would whip

[@johnnymcfakename8811]

Not all heroes wear capes

[@jimbo2629]

You need a new blade on a big bandsaw to do that. A circular saw would be better. However it worked very well. It depends on what machinery you have. With that bandsaw and blade I would have marked a straight line down the middle of the edge. I would then carefully follow that line and then thicknessed. The latter not easy on a small bandsaw. Twisted wood is best avoided. I have a thicknesser and a few passes on both sides works. Better still support two corners on one face, thickness it and then flip it over. Using a jointer on that piece of wood could be dodgy. Thought provoking video.

[@rattlejake0422]

**races home and immediately starts gluing shims to all his twisted boards** I don't have a jointer, I don't want one (no room, not enough power in my shop, too noisy & messy for me & mine) but I *do* have a band saw and I'm excited to try this!

[@nomercadies]

Good morning

[@toddcorey3190]

It’s funny…I’m doing this on a 42’x12” maple slab right now in the shop

[@MikeAG333]

What an almighty amount of faffing. That saved no time at all over just planing it in the normal way (and there is no-one who knows what they are doing would take more than a few minutes flattening one face). And if you were trying to do it with a 4' board, you'd need an 8' long fence. Best of luck keeping that stable.

[@gregorymacneil2836]

Have you ever tried just gluing the wedge on with hot melt glue? I just lay the stock on the table saw and slip a wedge underneath until I get four points of contact - glue the wedge in place and run it through the bandsaw. with the four points of contact against the fence.

[@mm9773]

Using hot glue is a little bit like using tape for things like edge banding: everybody says it works, but it sort of feels like it shouldn’t: you always wonder if it’s really strong enough. In this case, I’m guessing Paul is using super glue because he’s planing down one end of each strip: better to have a stronger bond.

[@gregorymacneil2836]

I use hot melt for a lot of stuff - but I do use 3M commercial glue - I don’t trust it on table saws or things with a lot of vibration or impact force etc but on the bandsaw it is great for attaching straight edges for jointing edges and attaching handles to small parts for cutting. I don’t do tape on edge banding but I will say my cargo trailer had it aluminum skin attached with tape at the factory and it is still secure as hell!

[@broomeco.8121]

Please don’t take this as a criticism but more of an observation with a smile, but it seems that the bandsaw blade is being forced out of alignment because you didn’t take enough bite when you entered the cut. The bandsaw blade was riding on the outside of the board and being flexed out of square because the blade doesn’t have enough rigidity for a skimming pass. When you exited the pass you can see the blade spring back true. With all respect, this seems to defeat the purpose of truing one side if the truing cut isn’t true.

[@fab0398]

The bandsaw simply isn't the right machine to do that. It could work on a thicknesser, not a bandsaw because of how the blade behave on a skimming pass.

[@apinakapinastorba]

Maybe true enough, because you can straighten it all out with a handplane.

[@colt1954]

I guess thats why he 'corrected' with a hand plane after?

[@joshjenkinson1929]

Maybe the blade flexed a little and it wasn’t perfect. But thicknessing panels this way rather than on a planer / Thicknesser will probably waste less wood as Paul was careful to remove equal amounts of twist from both ends.

[@wesandell]

I think one of Paul's key principles is "work with what you got". If you don't have a power planer or jointer, but do have a band saw, this is a way to speed up jointing the faces of a board. Is it perfect in one pass? No, but it could potentially save a bunch of time hand planing the faces with a scrub plane to get them flat. And if you already have a band saw, this is an option. It's same with jointing the edge of a board on a table saw with a sled (or even just using a long level). Is it the ideal machine to do it? No, but you can make it work if you don't have the money (or desire) to buy a jointer.

[@1man1guitarletsgo]

This is an interesting technique, but in my experience you need a decent bandsaw that's set up perfectly, a sharp blade, and a great deal of luck to achieve accurate results. I do like the idea of the two tapered strips, but would probably just attack the wood with a belt sander in the first instance. Having achieved decent flatness on one side, I would then head to the drill press. Set to its fastest speed, with a straight router bit in the chuck, and the quill locked in position it's possible to thickness a piece of wood by sliding it under the bit. It's slightly messy, and no doubt dangerous, but it works. Depending on the size of the workpiece, however, another way is to clamp the belt sander on its side on the bench, clamp a stout piece of wood (the guide) exactly parallel and the right distance from the belt, and then gently feed the workpiece between the guide and the sanding belt. I've used this technique to produce some super-thin strips of oak, extracting them from composite flooring boards. I did gouge a belt-sander-shaped groove in my bench, mind.

[@disqusrubbish5467]

All that sounds dangerous. Yes, with a band saw you need to set it up properly anyway, so that's not an issue. And yes, a sharp blade. But not luck so much as just taking your time. I think Paul has a video on band saw setup, and he has a link to the rather inexpensive but good blades he uses.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

You have lost me- where exactly is the joint of which you speak?

[@TheMrTrismegistus]

"jointing" refers to the preparation of the edge, plane and square.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

@@TheMrTrismegistus And the joint? (I take it 'jointing' is a verb, the action of making a joint. It is certainly used that way. )

[@ZachAshcraft]

These feels like a lot of effort to just not use a jointer 😂 but always good to have options