John Deere Marvel Schebler DLTX Carburetor Explained

[@stevekoonscolretired.usarm6345]

Thanks for a really great instructional video!! Easy to follow and complete from start to finish!! Appreciate your videos and attention to detail!!

[@jonelsonster]

Glad it was helpful!

[@patrickcreath217]

Well done Sir! This tutorial is so helpful, as I recently bought a 1951 model B, which is running roughly.

[@jonelsonster]

Glad it helped! Best of luck

[@yako0000]

thanks for the video. i got my D started yesterday and today i am going to clean the fuel system.

[@jonelsonster]

That's great

[@keepcalmandfarmon5401]

Another good video! Great explanation. Also highlights that carbs should be stored in a sealed plastic bag!

[@jonelsonster]

Ha! Yes, anywhere would be better than out in a grain barn on an open shelf... Well almost anywhere.

[@scottscheuerman6170]

I have just rebuilt DLTX 67 for my B and it wasn’t to bad I got a kit that had all the brass plugs and new screws I did have a time getting that brass tube with the holes in it out but I did take wire to all the ports and clean them out the kit also had new throttle bushings and I had to ream them because the throttle shaft was to tite. I also put a new float in it and set it they called for it to be 3/8 from the top of fuel bowl that is done but my tractor cuts out on a pull and I’m thinking the electric is grounding out in the converted magneto to a distributor now it’s got new plugs and wires

[@jonelsonster]

You could also check the load circuit to make sure it's set right. But spark issues will definitely cause problems too.

[@CarolMeyer-pv5ub]

Also check that the upper throttle bushing is flush with the inside throat, so that no air can get by the throttle plate. Again, great work

[@jonelsonster]

Yes, you should also verify the bushings on the throttle shaft are in good condition. Vacuum leaks there can cause idle and load issues.

[@dannyc7839]

Great video. Where should the load and idle screws be set roughly after putting back together? Thanks

[@jonelsonster]

Open them enough to get fuel... So maybe open 2 turns. Then tune from there.

[@gordbaker896]

@@jonelsonster 1-½ out for Idle circuit to start.

[@Marine-72]

Very good video, thank you. I do have a question maybe you or one of the viewers can answer. I have a '47 B with this carb, the one in this video a DLTX67. My B is hard to start, especially after it sits for several weeks. But once it starts it runs great and I can top almost any hill here in central Pennsylvania in 5th gear. Could it be one of, or a couple of the ports could be clogged? Would that cause hard starting?

[@jonelsonster]

It's hard to know for sure without hearing it or seeing it. One thing to check is too make sure your fuel shut off valve at the tank isn't leaking. If it leaks slowly then the fuel will leak past the carb and into the cylinders (and the crankcase). Then every time you try to start it then it's completely flooded... And very hard to start.

[@Marine-72]

Pretty certain there is no fuel bypass into the cylinders. I say that because I have a shut installed between the tank and the sediment bowl.

[@jonelsonster]

@@Marine-72 I'm not sure if your problem is carburetion or ignition. To me it almost sounds like ignition. But, my advise is to go through the carb completely and make sure the passage ways are all clean and clear. You don't have anything to lose. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, at least you can cross it off your list as a possible contributor.

[@CarolMeyer-pv5ub]

Spark plugs sometimes don’t work well. Check out the points. Maybe a bad capacitor. Check the condition of the coil. Try starting with the compression relief valves open (they are on the bottom of the engine. Be careful closing them if it starts . Hot gasses coming out of them

[@CarolMeyer-pv5ub]

If you have an all fuel tractor, two fuel tanks, you might need a different carburetor. Maybe a DLTX 73

[@johnlobbestael626]

That Marvel Schebler DLTX 67 is exactly the same carb I have on my 1950 John Deere B...

[@jonelsonster]

@@johnlobbestael626 yes, all the carbs on the G, the A, and the B are almost identical... Just different sizes.

[@79fordblake]

Nice video! You wouldn't have any cores you would be willing to sell would you? I need a good DLTX 71 I can go through and clean up for a 1950 A with powerblock.

[@jonelsonster]

I have a couple DLTX 71 carburetor bodies that are not yet rebuilt... But one has a crack in the stem. The other one might be in good shape. I'll have to check on it the next time I'm at the farm.

[@corsairsmitty9691]

I assume that the process for a DLTX 53 would be similar to this one. My 41 A has the DLTX 53 on it. I want to get a complete rebuilt kit for it including the float.

[@jonelsonster]

Yes, all of the DLTX carbs are the same. I actually did a video of a complete overhaul of a DLTX 53 carb for our AR. kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJayiZ5sm7V2aZI I go into more detail in that video.

[@corsairsmitty9691]

@@jonelsonster thank you. It was pretty rusty when you started.

[@platypus1287]

Did you have to drill the holes in the gasket side to take the plugs out

[@jonelsonster]

There are holes in the flange of the carburetor from the factory. So no, I did not have to modify the carburetor in any way.

[@platypus1287]

@@jonelsonster weird mine doesn’t have them

[@jonelsonster]

@@platypus1287 that's interesting. You'd think those holes would have to be there because that's how they drilled the passageways at the time the carb was manufactured. If you look on the back side of the flange, can you see anything? What model carburetor do you have?

[@duncanwatson7297]

What is your opinion of using ultrasonic cleaner tanks instead for a carb that has been sitting unused on JD D for 10 years ?

[@jonelsonster]

I can't say. I've e never used an ultrasonic cleaner. But it probably wouldn't hurt to try. Let me know how it works.

[@duncanwatson7297]

@jonelsonster I just took the bowl off so it and the body would fit in nicely and used cleaning strength vinegar for about half an hour followed by many 10 minute cleaning cycles with straight water until the water was clean at end . It sure removed a lot of "dirt" and fine rust. I had pulled the load and idle screws. I figure I will give it a try on the tractor before winter. If it doesn't work I have all winter to try and watch those instructional DVD'S and use the drills and kits. Thanks

[@TroyTyler-p5p]

I screwed up on my jd h carb I couldn’t get emulsion tube out so I found a screw that would thread into it and I could get it to turn 360 but not move up or down. I grabbed to screw with pliers and yanked and I broke the screw off in it. Any ideas what to do?

[@jonelsonster]

Hmmm... This is a tricky one. If the broken screw can not be extracted, you can try a few things I've done before (or seen done). The end of the emulsion tube sticks up in the throat of the carb, right in the necked down Venturi area. You could try sticking something in there and pressing it down. I've also seen carbs that have been drilled through the top of the carb. That gives access to be able to pound the emulsion tube downward and out. Then you have to thread the access hole you drilled and insert a plug. I have not done this. But I've seen a carb with a plug in the top. Maybe a last resort.

[@CarolMeyer-pv5ub]

Very good video!! But you forgot the horizontal passage behind the brass plug at the bottom of the stem. It is part of the idle system. Plugged, it will cause the tractor to idle roughly

[@jonelsonster]

Great point!

[@michaelrogers5625]

How many turns of the idle control and load circuit. My JD is not running smooth.

[@jonelsonster]

It will vary. Start with about 2. Then while running at low throttle, screw the idle adjust needle in or out until the engine sounds happy. For the load screw, you need to get someone else to get in the driver's seat, throttle the engine up, put the transmission in high gear, press both brakes hard, and slowly begin to release the clutch. This will load the engine. You have to kinda ride the clutch. But while the engine is under load, adjust the throttle until it sounds happy. You do not want to see any black smoke from the exhaust. I'll try to make a video of the process.

[@michaelrogers5625]

That tip worked. Thanks for your response. My late father's deere is running again. The serial number badge is missing so I cannot know the exact year its built. Is there another way to tell with out this badge? I estimate it's between a 47 and 51

[@CarolMeyer-pv5ub]

Start with the needles tight clockwise; then, turn each one out 1 1/2 turns out. Thats a good starting point.