How to Add Ease to an Armhole & Sleeve Cap

[@professorac3484]

Thank you. Such a clear tutorial!

[@JSternDesigns]

My Pleasure, Thanks so much for watching

How smart it this TY for sharing great methode 🥰

[@JSternDesigns]

You are so welcome.. Thank you for watching!

[@debbieoconnell2734]

Love this tip. I look always look forward to your fit tip Tuesday videos

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you for watching!

[@kayphuff]

This is so brilliant

[@JSternDesigns]

thanks Kay....Also there's this one kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3iWlYOqn7Z6is0 :)

[@umamaheswary7861]

Great tip ! Thank you very much for sharing this.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much... and thank you for fitting along with me!

[@cariloschen4478]

This is a Fantastic tutorial!! Question - How is the amount of ease determined? Is 1-inch typical (usually enough) or is there a way to diagnose the amount needed when the shirt is on? Thanks in advance! 📐✏️✂️

[@JSternDesigns]

I usually start with 3/4"-1".. then see what the adjustment does. You can always take it back down a little bit if you add too much.

[@laurenraynard737]

Thank you so much!!!! This was so helpful

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much and thanks for watching!

If you want to make fluffy sleeve you can use to methods for the cap sleeve spread and slash ?

[@JSternDesigns]

Yes, you can slash and spread the sleeve from the hem to the seam allowance along the sleeve cap. Then gather up the hem of the sleeve to a comfortable opening. Thanks for watching!

[@jp8934]

Awesome tip! Thank you!

[@JSternDesigns]

So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! Thanks so much.

[@kellercotton]

Thanks for the helpful videos! Question - when you are pivoting up the armhole and the shoulder line moves up, does that reduce the shoulder slope as well?

[@JSternDesigns]

Yes it does.. but if the armhole was tight, the excess added will be taken up by your shoulder. If the fabric picks up on the shoulder, you added too much. Let me know if this makes sense. Thanks for fitting along with me.

[@Luxxen101]

Excellent, as usual 🙂

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you so much 😀

[@avdm196]

Great tip! Could you please explain how to get rid of (most) of the drag lines in one piece sleeves. I know they are caused by the bent in the elbow and that a dart would help but is there anything else to do about it? Maybe I try to overfit. What is "normal" to see if well fitted and what not. Thank you.

[@swampfoxtaylor5728]

Drag lines on sleeves are usually caused by the cap height not being tall enough. Remove the stitching from the top of the sleeve at the shoulder, about two inches on either side of the center front of the sleeve and let it fall. If the drag lines disappear, then it is a cap height issue. Measure the amount of gap between the shoulder seam and the drop in the sleeve length and extend the cap height by that measurement.

[@JSternDesigns]

Excellent tip for diagnosing drag lines. It this does not work... Here's a tutorial showing how to drape the sleeve to remove drag lines (I can't take the credit for this one... one of my subscribers figured this out after we tried everything... including adjusting the sleeve cap!) kzbin.info/www/bejne/fpOxnoqHlM6nqcU

[@christinesutherland2957]

Thank you for this tutorial. I am working with a bodice that is smaller in the front, broad shoulders plus a curved back, forward bone, sloping shoulder, slightly larger biceps and no waste. Do you have a video that will show which adjustment to do first? I'm doing the shoulders first then the back issues and now I need to follow this tutorial to add ease to the armhole which may or may not be the problem. I've changed everything else but the back bodice seems to be correct aside from still having tightness in the back where the arms stretch outward.

[@JSternDesigns]

My Pleasure. Typically, I start at the shoulders and work down to make sure the key areas are positioned properly vertically first. (Like making sure the bust dart is in the right spot and that the waistline and hem agree with your shape.) Then I'll work on the ease in the garment. If your back feels snug when you're arms are out, it could be that you need to let out the cb seam ... or fill in the "wings" on the sleeve. The wing is the section of the cap from the underarm seam to the notches. If you reshape that part of the cap so it's above the original edge from notch to underarm seam just a little bit, you can make more ease to more your arms around... which could make the back feel better too. You have to maintain the measurement, so the new wing will extend past the original underarm edge ...adding room to the underarm seam too. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching

[@susannetetzlaff4982]

Great tutorial👍👍👍

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@badputts]

How do you decide what adjustments you need on an armhole from a brand new pattern? I don’t understand how to do the original adjustments? Do you always have to make a muslin sample first to know?

[@JSternDesigns]

I usually do make a fit muslin for a new pattern... but in my case it's because I'm designing something new to develop into a pattern to add to my collection. This month is Shirt Month here at J Stern Designs. I just did a series on adjusting the sleeve cap to fit the armhole + adjusting the bicep for fit. here's the tutorial that shows the order of fit adjustments. I think this may help you! kzbin.info/www/bejne/hGXFoWqYgNNofbs

[@salauddinkhan6640]

Dear Very Nice

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@maureenmiddleton1450]

Thank you so much. How do you know how much to ease to add?

[@JSternDesigns]

I usually start by adding 1/4" to each side. Then I test fit to see if I need more.

[@starfoxandstellar9917]

Hello! Thanks for the video, it was really helpful. I just wanted to ask a question. When I walk my sleeve cap stitching line on my armhole stitching line, I find that my sleeve cap is too small for the armhole. Would this method work for that too?

[@JSternDesigns]

If you're checking a knit top pattern, it may be that the sleeve cap is designed to have negative ease... meaning it's smaller than the armhole. If you're working with a woven pattern or a knit pattern that you want to add ease to the cap, you can do it this way. Thanks for fitting along with me!

[@megssews9300]

Thank you! How do I draft a sleeve for your Bias Play Top that is part of the Cool Stitches Subscription Box?

[@JSternDesigns]

Hi... if you have The Tee pattern, that sleeve will fit the Bias Play Top (I designed it from the Tee pattern) If not...stay tuned, I’ll show how to use a knit sleeve pattern piece from another pattern in your stash to work with the bias play top :)