JYE Tech DSO 150 (clone) cheap oscilloscope REPAIR

I bought this cheap handheld oscilloscope, it's a JYE Tech's DSO 150 clone. Six months into using it and it broke. In this video I troubleshoot it and repair the scope. I hope you enjoy :)

[@englishrupe01]

Great job and troubleshooting!

[@adistef]

man, you saved my dso150 from the bin; replaced the voltage converter and now its alive again. thanks !!

[@vancouverman4313]

You will find the best way to remove capacitors that are "through hole" capacitors is simply to heat one side of the capacitor and then the other while gently rocking them out. The best way to remove the surface mount IC is to heat one side with a soldering iron and gently using a tool like a dental pick to gently pry it up and then do the same to the other side. You should use the least amount of heat to remove and re-install components as they all can be damaged by excessive heat.

[@m1k4c]

bismuth + lead = sladoled !!! ;D

[@proxcode1898]

Thanks for sharing this know how. I repaired my device as you described.

[@milanfixer]

I'm glad it helped 😊 Cheers 👍

[@myghi63]

What a awesome repair video!

[@milanfixer]

Thank you mate! Enjoy 😊

[@dentonfender6492]

At least yours worked a little when you received it. Mine does not receive any signal input (no noise, or any kind of sine, or square wave), and I delayed using for a few months after I received it---- too late to send it back to E-bay vendor for money back---- lost $30 bucks. Oh well, I've thrown that much away gambling on a slot machine in about 30 minutes before. Wish I had bought the kit instead of fully assembled. Now I have to do what you did, and hopefully the problem will be obvious like a shorted solder joint, or bad electrolytic cap. Good show, you speak very clear English, unlike many other videos on electronics on You Tube. So many people, even if their English is clear, they mumble when they speak, or talk too fast. You are better than most as a teacher.

[@milanfixer]

Thank you very much mate. That means a lot to me ❤️ I'm really sorry to hear that. When you buy Chinese, sometimes you don't even get what you pay for. If you don't want to waste too much time and you have money to spend, I recommend the Fnirsi 1014d - 2 channel 100 MHz scope (they sell for about 160$). If you're not a professional engineer, it'll last you a lifetime.

[@batforjustice]

I know this is dated in a way. If I were to design this thing. I would have powered U3(+3.3v) and U5(-5v) with the output from U4(AV+). Doing this would help decrease the chance of frying the scope from more than 10 volts on the power supply. You could also find room to put a 7809 inside somewhere to solve over-voltage internally; by putting it in series with the power jack before those wimpy power components. The problem is U5 has a max of about +10.5 vdc in and U3 about +7vdc max in. There might be variants of U3 and U5 that can handle a higher input voltage. The dso062 and dso138 don't have this problem. In my experience electrolytics don't fail unless they are reversed, over voltaged for too long, or are subjected to extended heat. I have had a surface mount chip cap short that was on the power rails.

[@johnnyjimj]

Very interesting that the power supply could be causing this. It may have explained why my DSO never worked right when I first got it, with similar test voltages. In any case, the seller replaced the board on warranty and all is well now, but I wonder if I shouldn't add a zener clamping diode at the input to prevent this from recurring.

[@vadflo]

Great job. I have same model ( also clone ) and make the same repair on it after watch your clip. Now my toy is working again :). Regards

[@milanfixer]

I'm glad my video helped. Thank you my friend 😊

[@dragonbleu1205]

28:30 It's good to be euphoric, don't blame you !

[@antoniobadalucco6404]

Awesome video

[@milanfixer]

Thank you very much brother! God bless 😊👍

[@eraldylli]

I didnt see no asses. Good job on post! Good job on the repair too. I dont have this issue with my DSO150, and I watched to the end. Well done. You may find a slimmer iron tip and thinner solder (0.3mm) easier to work with when doing smd work.

[@thelightings]

a great vid. thank you alot

[@rickphyman42]

Very informative! My DSO150 also encountered the same situation like yours Hope I could fix it as well :)

[@milanfixer]

Good luck! 🍀

[@edinny8001]

Enjoyed the video for sure, have the same scope, although it still works, I would like to get a better one, what do you recommend for around $100. ?

[@milanfixer]

Oh man, nothing for that price. I would recommend the Fnirsi 1014d full featured oscilloscope (it's around 170$). It's got 2 channels, a signal generator and all the features you can find in a 1000$ scope. I tried several cheaper things, but they're useless in more serious situations. This is my next one. Thank you for the support mate 😊

[@leedale5393]

Well done and your English is great.

[@milanfixer]

Thank you very much! 😊

[@onefugi]

This I my first repair... of well anything...😂😂😂 what a win 👍🏼

[@milanfixer]

Thanks mate 😊 It really was though 😂😂😂

[@mayoortechinnovations]

Please how did you get the replacement IC I believe my own scope is having similar issue.. thanks

[@milanfixer]

Aliexpress. You can get 10 of those replacement ICs for 2 dollars, shipping included. If you don't have a negative rail, the IC is the most likely cause.

[@caglarayverdi7881]

thanks it works for me

[@lww3988]

謝謝您的教學！

[@pelitt]

Hello, I disassembled my product analog card. My motherboard screen white not fixed? do you have any idea to solve this problem? did you have such a problem

[@milanfixer]

No. I didn't have such a problem. Try to treoubleshoot it with the help of this manual: jyetech.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/dso150-shell-user-manual.pdf

[@TheJavaSync]

More vids, electronics stuff trouble shooting :)

[@AliMShipleSYR]

either you're bothered by camera stand, or you're working using lcd microscope, i cam across this video while searching for solutions, you have the same osci like mine, its finrsi dso150 (copycat, later removed from the site), since the time i bought my osci from local store, i have a problem of V0=2.3V, its my only problem, C3 C4 no effect, by digging and search found that the mux chip is factory faulty 🤣, nice work and hope you doing well in study👏🏻👏🏻

[@milanfixer]

Thank you very much brother, I'm glad it was helpful! You're absolutely right, the camera stand is between me and the PCB, so I'm forced to work around it 😂😂😂. It can be a real pain to work with it, but I didn't come up with a better solution yet.

[@ourchannel8215]

good job bro...my dso now trouble the ic chip 7660...wait to the shiping very long time from china..🥴🥴 👍👍👍👍👍

[@milanfixer]

Good luck in fixing it my friend 🍀😄

[@wilmersanabria1031]

Felicidades saludos desde Latinoamérica.. el mío , no quiere medir corriente continua la onda se distorsiona

[@danedewaard8215]

Man, just heat each side of those capacitors while you wiggle them out!!! Sorry, I didn't want you to damage the circuit board!!! All in all, you did a great job!!! I would really like to know what the problem was. Did you test the IC, and was it bad, or were the caps bad?

[@milanfixer]

Thank you 🙂 Yes, you're right. I recently bought a new soldering iron tip, so now I can heat both leads of the capacitor simultaneously. To answer your question: the IC was bad, because it's job was to provide negative voltage and you could see in the video that there was no negative voltage. I didn't test the IC after removing it, because the heating and no negative voltage was enough for me to suspect it. Also one capacitor was shorted. Which of these happened first, I can only speculate. Here's what I think happened: The IC got fried and it shorted one capacitor (because there was higher potential on the negative side of the capacitor, but not enough to cause it to leak or pop).

[@danedewaard8215]

Thank you! I did enjoy the video very much!

[@ferenczakanyi3241]

Did u changed th IC for the new one? If yes, where did u buy it?

[@milanfixer]

Yes, the chip was the new one. I had those laying around, as it is a common negative rail chip. I bought them of Aliexpress. They're cheap.

[@gilbyit]

I've the same issue, the problem is that chip you change suffer from overvoltage, im my case instead of 9V it was powered with 11V and the chip bunred. I had change only the chip an this fix work for me. This oscilloscope is weak, pay attention about input and power supply voltages.

[@milanfixer]

You're absolutely right, overvoltage can easily kill the chip. I think I accidentally used a 12v adapter and I fried the chip. You gave me an idea to make a circuit where the overvoltage problem could be fixed 🤔

[@miguelonate3037]

Where did you find a replacement?

[@gilbyit]

@@miguelonate3037 on Ebay

[@milanfixer]

Ebay, aliexpress, banggood. The world is full of them.

[@jamesmyers2087]

Milan, couple things. Your English is fine. You’d fit right in where I grew up in the northeast US. PA, don’t yuh know? Next is, your comment that you never fixed anything electronic... Wondering why you’d have an oscilloscope as a bench tool in the first place? You must be at least making adjustments to sound gear or something that you’d need one? Your analysis process is really organized and logical. Anyway, I’ve had two of these kits go bad and it looks like from your video this is exactly what’s been failing on these two I’ve had. I also wondered why the area got so incredibly hot. Already replaced the two100uf caps like their trouble shooting list advised. I have a pinned icl7660 in an “every ic known to man” amazon kit. So I might try to convert the pins to surface mount and give this a try rather than returning another one. So file this one under, “if I can save just one cheap china knockoff single-channel oscilloscope”, it was worth showing the world my soldering fu. lol The first surface mount ic I practiced on, on a practice kit... I shoved it around at least a square inch of pcb trying to align feet. Twice. Maybe three time. Could have been four. I’ll leave another comment if it works. Thanks much for posting your repair.

[@milanfixer]

James, thank you so much for taking the time to respond to me. I completely know what you mean about surface mount soldering. Now to answer your question, about needing an oscilloscope: I'm actually a chemist, that's my profession. But since my country doesn't invest enough in science, I was forced to make my own lab equipment (of course nothing too precise, just to automate my work flow as much as possible). But pretty soon I realized that just having a multimeter, as a diagnosing tool, won't be enough. So I bought this tiny scope because I needed it to help me design equipment for the lab. I loved electronics as a kid, but I got a lot more serious since I stared working at the chem lab. The reason I stared this KZbin channel is to connect with people that love electronics as much as I do (that aren't necessarily professionals, but people playing with components on Friday nights 😂). I've saved enough money to buy a real analogue oscilloscope, its nothing fancy but it's a step in the right direction. I'll make a video about it soon. Best wishes and stay safe 😊

[@jamesmyers2087]

@@milanfixer Same to you, brother.

[@iho2222]

Чарли Чаплин отдыхает :))) Я про выпайку конденсаторов...

[@mp1454]

😀👍👍👍👍👍

[@thanhtunggd5]

hi, my dso 150 oscilloscope after supplying 9v dc power the stm32 chip is very hot, and the screen is only white, where should i check?

[@milanfixer]

Oh boy... I've never had that problem before. Find the DSO150 manual online, check the probe points described on it and refer to the troubleshooting segment of the manual. It covers most of the common problems. Try that and tell me what was wrong if you find anything. Best of luck to you my friend 🍀🤞😊

[@thanhtunggd5]

@@milanfixer Thank. before that i gave 12v power to the dso 150, i replaced the icl7660 and it worked fine. Then I took the 8.4V point of the 4s battery block to power the dso150, the error here is that I clamped the p6100 probe to the negative terminal of the battery block and immediately the dso150 screen turned white, the stm32 temperature increased quickly after power is available. Is there a possibility that the stm32 is shorted and dead?

[@milanfixer]

@@thanhtunggd5 Unfortunately there is a possibility that the STM32 is dead, especially because it got hot. Take the measurements mentioned in the manual and check.

[@thanhtunggd5]

@@milanfixer after i remove the stm32 from the circuit i proceed to measure. measured value is V+8.5V. AV+, V-, AV-, V1, V2, V3, V4 all result in 7.5V.

[@milanfixer]

@@thanhtunggd5 And before, with the chip?

[@brunobastos5533]

Happen to me to

[@solo1953]

Do you know which component was broken?

[@milanfixer]

Yes. I replaced it in the video.

[@solo1953]

One or more capacitors or IC?

[@milanfixer]

@@solo1953 The IC was dead. I have no idea why. Many people had the same problem. I had no problem since the repair. The caps were fine.

[@raffey104]

I thought you need more experience for solding a SMD

[@siiv7973]

100 kHz are very low for home working...

[@milanfixer]

I agree completely. This one is more for the kids starting out.

[@pelitt]

Mekanik işçiliğin berbat çok pratik yapmalısın. Değişen parça listesi ekleyebilirsin

[@mortemmiles5179]

cambia de soldador y cambia de flux

[@techmatebolpur9252]

11:35 soldering skills like Hiroshima :( very low temp soldering iron, u should use low melt solder

[@m1k4c]

Al si izmrcvario one kondenzatore ;D

[@milanfixer]

Vala' baš 😂 Lemilica nije mogla ljudski da zagreje kalaj pa sam izmišljao toplu vodu sa šupljim iglama za TH-komponente.

[@m1k4c]

@@milanfixer MilanU, kakav si sa tranzistorima? Moze li pomoc prijatelja?

[@milanfixer]

@@m1k4c Tranzistorima kao komponentama ili kao prenosnim radio prijemnicima?

[@m1k4c]

@@milanfixer Kaki crni prenosivi radio prijemnici ;D Kako da pretvorim TTL modulaciju u 2V 5A CC led driver, a da ne kupujem drajver za laser sa TTL inputom? Ustvari, oni su uglavnom ograniceni na 20kHz, a treba mi 38kHz. Bilo bi dobro da se ocuva square-wave forma kolko-tolko, mada to mi nije problem da peglam. Nije mi problem nista sem prvog koraka ustvari, zato sto imam svakakvih led drajvera i brzih konvertera, jedini mi je problem prvi korak. Umesto TTL-a, mogu da povucem iz signala koji miliamper, ako ti je tako lakse da razmisljas, ne kao samo razlika u potencijalu, nego eto - moze i neka struja. Samo da se dovede na koji amper umesto miliampera. Gain 1000 ;D Ja sam tele sa tranzistorima ;D Nisam bas tele, imam neke ideje, ali mozda ces ti imati bolju?

[@milanfixer]

@@m1k4c Uh... Neću ti biti od pomoći. Pošto 5A CC mi zvuči baš ambiciozno. Ja bih realno napravio kolo sa zasebnim napajanjem i sa dva LM317 (jedan u konfiguraciji CV, a drugi u konfiguraciji CC). Ide do 1,5A, a za podešavanje intenziteta bih koristio NE555 tajmer da dobije tvoju željenu frekvenciju dimmovanja. Ako si vredan i baš zagrejan za to, pogledaj kako iznutra funkcioniše LM317 i probaj na većoj skali da napraviš potrebno kolo od diskretnih komponenti koje bi izdržalo 5A koje želiš (treba ti veliki tranzistor sa hladnjakom, otpornici od 1W i operaciono pojačalo). TTL... Ta kola sam samo popravljao (stari osciloskopi se na njima svode), ali nikada nisam dizajnirao ništa slično.

[@raffey104]

you struggle to remove a capacitor pin

[@milanfixer]

Yeah I know. Later I've seen that my soldering iron wasn't at the right temperature. It needed to be higher.

[@raffey104]

@@milanfixer you need a Good Quality Desoldering Tools like goot Brand from Japan they suck alot melted solder from Good Quality Soldering iron also goot brand from japan 👍 then you may get quality solder not only skills but also Good Tools for this field 😇

[@raffey104]

@@milanfixer by the way.. it's great to fix the problem even the DSO 150 is fake. good to you 👍. actually I already order that item but it's Genuine DSO 150 from JYE TECH

[@milanfixer]

@@raffey104 I will take your advice on some good desoldering tools. I got some new temperature controlled soldering irons, I just didn't make a video on them yet. As for your JYE: you are very smart for buy a real onr! And when you have the money, buy a real oscilloscope. You'll thank yourself in the long run. Best wishes mate 😊

[@raffey104]

@@milanfixer 👍😇

[@berislavtopol1404]

ja sam kupio originalni jyetech sa banggooda i pokvario se nakon 5 minuta. Rotacioni enkoder prestao funkcionirati na većini postavki. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIW9m6SnZ9h7iq8

[@milanfixer]

A to je baš jednostavna popravka. Možeš kupiti sa aliekspresa ili banggood-a novi enkoder (ali samo enkoder, nemoj modul za Arduino), da razlemiš stari i ubaciš novi. Oni se često kvare... A svi ovi jeftini uređaji su napravljeni od kineskih škart komponenti.

[@berislavtopol1404]

@@milanfixer vidi na mom videu na 1:07, tu radi normalno kad ideš lijevo desno.

[@milanfixer]

@@berislavtopol1404 Jesi li skinuo uputstvo sa njihovog sajta i proverio napone na onim test tačkama? Ovo mi ne izgleda uopšte kao da je sam enkoder mrtav.

[@berislavtopol1404]

@@milanfixer Sve mjerne točke su u redu. Rekao bih da je bug u softweru/firmweru.

[@dentonfender6492]

One hung low Chinese chip ----- LOL

[@milanfixer]

Dave from EEVBlog uses that one 😂😂😂

[@paul.alarner6410]

his flux aplication reminded me of putting toothpaste on a brush,what a waste of flux,much more than needed so it floods everywhere on the board,i normaly put flux on each pin with a coctail stick.

[@milanfixer]

That's also a very good way. I use flux like Louis Rossmann these days 😂😂😂

[@kostasvarsamis4155]

how you ended that it was a faulty IC,since you did no measurements. no schematics, no datasheets. no nothing. you didnt traced the missing voltage. you went straight to a "maybe shorted capasitor" or to the ICL....... just coz it was hot, it doesnt mean its faulty.... you replaced the ICL... and where you found it??? u had spare ICL? why? you are not electronic technician, and even if you was, that ICL isnt a necesary component for nobody... means u saw the solution from somewhere you ordered the ICL and made the video. you also replaced the capasitors.... what was the capacitance of each one? and why you replaced them? you sayied the old one were cheap chinese, and had no name.... so, what was the name of them and what was the name of the new one you used.i guess not cheap chinese,but straight from the usa!!! and what was that capasitors desoldering world war 4 thing you was trying to do? you gave a battle for 1hour with that poor board and that 3 capasitors... just heat both pins with the iron, and pull the capasitor... from the color of the solder wire you are using,it seems its not the right one for elecrtonics.but im not sure. plus, if you have problems with the desoldering wick,then first feed it with fresh solder with your iron. and if it still wont suck the solder, then maybe you should check the iron's temp? coz it seems it was low..... trying so hard with all those multiple ways, you will end with destroyed rails and burned boards... what will you do if you have to remove a component from 2 or 3 or even 7 layers board? and its almost imposible for electrolitic capasitors like those 3 to get shorted.they even look ok. drop capacitance?yes. raise ESR?yes... shorted?super-duper rare.... plus, it was so freaking easy to remove a tiny 8 pins IC without removing the capasitors.just use your soldering iron and a tweezer.... no need for half kilo of flux to desolder the IC,then half kilo of flux to remove the solder(gently touching the pads!!!),then an other half kilo of flux to solder the new IC.... back in the 90's we were desoldering and soldering 4 side pin controllers with 80-100pins using a soldering iron and a small flat screwdriver. no flux. no nothing..... nowdays everyone became electronic technician/enginner.... hunting shorted capasitors, and using hot air guns,enormous amounts of flux,voltage injection and antistatic gloves........