Kawasaki Z9 - Broken bolt removal

[@geraldchristensen2826]

So called, "Crash Bars" (or Gold Wing peg mounts) have some value in a tip over or slow speed crash. But from what I've seen come through the shop, in a high impact crash they tend to add to the damage.

[@stevenhoman2253]

an obvious misalighnment between the chassis and the bolt hole seem a good clue here. they should be alighned certainly when not stressed.

[@bobbybackmarker9665]

Bit of copper grease and that would have come out no probs.

[@1busterchops]

I would always put copper slip on any nut and bolt replacement, just something passed down from mi father (pronounced fathr cos I'm from Yorkshire)

[@redeyesra131]

Thanks again man mine same thing. I did go down tho at 45mph she held up. Bolt snapped. Ever got a new cage

[@bikersquest]

I've used a left hand drill and easy out before for a snapped off sump bolt, both worked pretty good but I think easy outs are bit more bitey the left hand bit cost me a mini fortune at the time

[@DA2THFA1RY]

Watch out, Matt has got himself a stunt cage, gonna be doing some dank parking lot circle wheelies soon 😂

[@mrdarn]

Something that helped me when using left handed drill bits to remove broken bolts: Use the torque setting on the drill. Its more likely to bite, and the "rattle" of the torque slip (yeah, I know it's not the technical term... Sue me) helps wind the bolt out without cutting through too much material. A small pilot hole first exasperates the effect

[@dirtygarageguy]

Yeah but they're a bit goosey loosey - the steps on this drill don't seem even - the biggest issue here was trying to apply enough pressure without the bike tipping

[@dentistguba]

Del says just hold the drill in the other hand.

[@TheCcponyboy]

Japan M series 1.25mm pitch Europe M series 1.5mm pitch depending on o/d. And stainless on a stressed connection is never any good as the stuff work hardens. That is probably why it failed. Learnt that with my 125!

[@BikerJack12345]

Some better fitting spacers might help this from happening in the future. You could get del to turn you up a couple!

[@mclovin583]

Make em outta wood.

[@blipco5]

Biker Jack123456 ...I agree.

[@notamotorbikemechanic]

Wish I'd watched this yesterday, before I spent hours with a shit easyout 😫

[@raymondo240]

good vid mat..getting right in about it with bare hands and bike jacket on and no goggles on and it spitting in rain ,,pure old school..the need to extract was strong obi one

[@carlvitale744]

You could use a stud with two washers a nut more washers to make a level surface and a second nut to secure the crash bar. That would give you the right tightness for the engine and the right tightness for the crash bar. On Isaac's bike you should tern the brackets on the axel because the weight pushing down on the axle pushes up and stresses the top side of the swing arm I think the bracket is to distribute the weight over and under the hole in the swing arm. Love your channel Matt Thanks.

[@brianrhubbard]

Great video Matt. If you buy right or left handed drill bits and easy-outs buy them from MAC Tools or Snapon, they come with a lifetime warranty. I've been known to mess up a few bits in my day.

[@stephenmcqueen4029]

IN THE SHOP can’t see how they can give lifetime warranty on a drill bit, so much chance fir people to break em

[@dirtygarageguy]

A lifetime warranty is no good with the tool snapped in the bolt.....

[@brianrhubbard]

@@dirtygarageguy Been there before, you are right. In this situation MAC tools are the best. A lot of broken or dulled bits were from my own misuse as I learned. They were there to replace that bit for free even though they sold it to me for $60 a piece.

[@brianrhubbard]

@@stephenmcqueen4029 Dude, In a job shop you run into some crazy scenario's for sure. In my line of work you go through bits like they are nothing.

[@brianrhubbard]

@@stephenmcqueen4029 They just do. Its the coolest shite ever.

[@FranseFrikandel]

I think the way it sheared off is mostly due to higher braking force and the upwards force during cornering (Due to centripetal force), so basically making the frame bend upwards while the block stayed in place. I don't know how the spacer sits between the crash bar and the frame but I remember you saying it was just loose in there? That would mean the bolt along the entire length of that spacer is completely unsupported I'd imagine. Also sounds like a bad time. The more I think about it the more it seems to me the issue is really in the design and not necessarily the quality of the bolts.

[@TonyTony-xj6uv]

its an amazing feeling when useing a left had bit to extraxt a bolt. you get a little flutter in your chest as the bolt comes out

[@gilbertreeves2084]

Matt...Real-life fixing bikes is great to watch..I can think of solutions for the ill-fitting frame/crashbar bolt mounts.I`d rather wait and hopefully see what that mind of your`s comes up with..,,Cheers.!

[@Jonathanbaker]

Buy some drill bushes they are ace for drilling out studs. No need for center punch

[@martins7194]

No washer under the bolt head? I would try and find a spacer to fill up that hole, or find a rubber "damper" to fit in there and then get a large washer to cover the hole completely. I'd say, if you install it again as it was, it'll break again.

[@northerner1374]

Del would have made a tool on the lathe to remove that Matt! Don’t forgot to use the copper grease on reassembly🤘

[@stevenhoman2253]

seems to me a rubber buffer should be in that hole, to take up torsional forces?

[@johngriffiths470]

Looking at the shear on the bolt. It looks like its has sheared in a cup shape. This usually means the bolt has sheared from being pulled at both ends. I thing this is due to the alloy head expanding at a greater degree than the stainless fixing. I think the track day format has allowed the engine to get hot then cool . Hot then cool ect. Until the alloy has expanded more than the stainless fixing could cope with.. Ducati had the same problem in the early 90's . they used stainless head studs that failed all the time. Replace the stainless bolts and solve the problem.

[@dirtygarageguy]

"Looking at the shear on the bolt. It looks like its has sheared in a cup shape. This usually means the bolt has sheared from being pulled at both ends." - Axial loading. - Thermal expansion is NOT the cause

[@johngriffiths470]

@@dirtygarageguy Sorry I don't agree. If it was axial loading the bolt would have a different shear pattern. It would have a rougher tear with a lip on it. That has sheared far too cleanly

[@dirtygarageguy]

When you say axial you mean pulling or tensile stress - this would have some necking and the tensile stress for a grade 12.9 is 1080 MPa! "It would have a rougher tear with a lip on it. That has sheared far too cleanly" I think you're mistaking shear and tortional failure or tortional shear. arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php look at the 'common faulires' tab

[@johngriffiths470]

@@dirtygarageguy You said it was axial loading. I basically said that the stainless bolt had gone through many heat cycles and eventually sheared through heat expansion. If as you say the frame has been flexing and the bolt has sheared because of this. Then surely there must be tell tale damage to the paint work ( cracking chipping scuffing ect) . Has the bolt hole in the frame been elongated? Has it been deformed ? I don't believe any of these things have happened because the part of the frame that the bolt passed through was under compression. The shearing force came from the expansion of the alloy acting against the head of the bolt.

[@stevenhoman2253]

im guessing that the chassis harmonics are shearing your bolts? although the mismatch of materials may play a factor. is the unit and bolts a kawasaki unit or after market? shearing stresses on the chain side or not are possibly causing a stress moment which are unequally spread giving you an unequal stressor at what are pivot points?

[@gleddyvrudd]

Nicely done, I wish my rad bracket bolt I sheared last week was going to be that easy but the 6mm thread is firmly seized ..looks like heat and drilling it out

[@DAZAMAN87]

Great job mate. I have used normal drill bits and have had to drill bolts right out and tap. Good shout with the left handys 👍🏻

[@raydavison2972]

That extra engine lug is for left hand drive bikes

[@danielfarmer4311]

Nerve racking watching this one good work. Left handed drill bits. You lucky bastage 😎

[@simonchapman7146]

I bought the same crash bars from M&P a few weeks back for my Z900 and thought the mounting hardware was crap. Engine bolts and spacers were poor quality. Also, no washers provided for any of the bolts and no instructions. Sent them straight back for a refund and got some sw-motech bars instead which are much better quality, but don't give as much protection for the lower engine, so might need some engine covers as well. Glad I sent mine back after watching this.

[@keithf8890]

Eyup,Northern.What about a stud?Screw it into the threaded part,then torque the nut down(for the engine fixing),then the engine bar with a nut on the end.Yes?No?

[@dirtygarageguy]

No different that a bolt.

[@blu3flare25]

I've had two engine mount bolts wiggle themselves lose on my Z, noticed them before they fell loose. Also now that you mention it i also really wanna know what that bracket on the cylinder is for..

[@WyreForestBiker]

If the bolts are that shit wonder how effective the crash bar itself would be ?

[@rico5004]

what amazes me is why don't manufacturers design in crash bars at design and manufacture process im sure they would do a better job that looks good

[@dirtygarageguy]

because it costs more money.....

[@waynedl99]

And more weight in the specs numbers. Look at all the crying over the weight of the new T7 for example

[@rackbites]

If those bars touch you are almost certain to go down. Take em off for trackdays. They catch on kerbs and grass and stand a good chance to make the bike flip. Get some GB Racing engine covers.

[@dirtygarageguy]

"If those bars touch you are almost certain to go down. Take em off for trackdays." - Great I'll let Kyle Reese know so when he goes back in time he can tell me not to bother....... "Get some GB Racing engine covers." - these really are shit - and don't do anything for impacts

[@stevenhoman2253]

aralditie, the greek godess of adhesives cant help you her

[@spacecowboy4997]

R&G, SW Motech and Stark make engine sliders/covers for the Z900

[@dirtygarageguy]

and they are shit

[@desantos1234]

This is the thing that pisses me off with these expensive beefy looking protectors. They always seem to fail or fuck up in one way or the other. I mentioned this when it happened a few months ago, but ill repeat regardless. I had those R&G crash bungs fitted with that bar that goes through the bike and mounts to the engine that requires the fairing to be drilled through for the bung to pop out of on the other side. I lowsided at about 15mph on ice at the beginning of this year and the crash bung flipped up and the bar behind it bent straight up at a 45 degree angle too. This ripped off my left side fairing completely instead of the fairing just being scratched which would only require a respray if i had no crash 'protection' fitted at all.. Contacted R&G about this. Because one of their 'approved technicians' or an approved garage didnt fit them, they wouldnt do anything about it. So the moral is for anyone who wants R&G cut through bungs, stay away, they'll tear up your fairings, even with the slow speed i was going. The bike didnt slam down either, it basically glided onto its side. The blunt force impact from the bike smacking the tarmac was probably less than if you were to drop it at a standstill..

[@blue03r6]

Kawasaki has went down the tubes. Most of their bikes are made in Taiwan. They always have broken or missing bolts. I hated working a a Kawasaki dealer as a mechanic. They also build the bike with hidden fasteners. So I'd have to remove 9 other parts to remove something that could have rubber grommets holding it.

[@blue03r6]

@Eddie Hitler i'm just speaking in general. you wouldn't believe how many stripped and broken bolts I find on their bikes right out of the factory. heck man, I had to replace a cylinder head on a 2018 z650 because of a crack that was leaking oil on the outside of the engine. that's not a sign of quality. that's the sign they're building garbage. they're not even checking the engines for defects.

[@biscuitbarrel5589]

Timely reminder not to use stainless bolts on brake calipers or yoke pinch bolts.

[@peromo9397]

I thought your bike looks better without the plastic side trim. Dunno if it adds some protection against the elements but...? Wot are your thoughts?

[@dirtygarageguy]

crash bumgs are ususally shite - if you look at bikes that have crashed they just bend out of the way or snap - more on this later

[@ausshot83]

don't forget the copper grease when you put it back together lol

[@mcljot]

Did you contact the crash bar manufacturer? Maybe they have some small print saying 'not for track use'. Might be worth changing out all of their other bolts for better bolts as well? Altho I think I head you say they are using 12 - 9.

[@FaddyMcFaddyWaddy]

What about GB racing engine covers instead of bolting scaffolding poles to the bike 👍

[@blue03r6]

those things are garbage. they're just soft plastic. they will do nothing but keep the covers from being scratched on a driveway fall over.

[@toxicnerveYT]

@@blue03r6 Have you used them? Have you crashed a bike with them? They're designed to wear, like a frame slider. Depending the type and severity of an accident they can save your cases from wearing through.

[@blue03r6]

Yes and no they're not all that. They're nothing like a frame slider. They're thin plastic that grinds away on the pavement in 2 feet. They're for parking lot falls. Definitely not worth the price. If you need real protection you'll have to go with better covers like NRC or woodcraft.

[@TES99911]

@@blue03r6 then why only GB racing is used in british racing not r&g or woodcraft?

[@blue03r6]

@@TES99911 you have a lot to learn about sponsorship. they run that kind of stuff and motor oils because that company sponsors the team.

[@jalepeno_pete3589]

Call dellboy he will whip u up a custom ground bold thats welded together for extreme strength and higher performance "tuned bolts" heat treated in evans

[@ChristopherWilliams-fq5ig]

Looking at the bolt on the other side it appears the head of the bolt is not big enough for the hole. There appears to be a gap around the top edge. Might be worth a look while you sizing up new bolts.

[@blipco5]

Fantastic centering by hand. 👍 Jobs a good Un.

[@timothytwigg3501]

just cut a bit of bamboo cane the right length a good blob of no nails job done

[@goinhot9133]

I see the pro-bob-lem, it’s got to much green!

[@oldschoolengineer58]

bolt made of chinesium!

[@demonlux3ltr146]

Great vid Matt. Wouldn't making a new sleave that fits perfectly inside the frame tube on the kawasaki Z900 with no slack remove the flex stress on the bolt itself?

[@lupuszzz]

Doesn't look like shear force broke it off. I looks like as there has been too much axial force. I exchange aluminium parts from joints with serious load or stress. A zink plated pipe does the job better and O-rings on the screw keep perfect concentric.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Well its eccentric loading with a component of both axial and shear due to the vector of displacement - Sounds better, but does it matter? No. The chassis flexed and the bolt broken.

[@lupuszzz]

​@@dirtygarageguy I like when you call bullshit a bullshit and explain things in a very understandable way to people. But please accept when you look at a completly uniform, straight surface of a broken bolt and say "It sheared off", that you are corrected as well. I can not exclude the possibility, that I didn't understand you right because of my bad English - sorry in this case!

[@dirtygarageguy]

"But please accept when you look at a completly uniform, straight surface of a broken bolt and say "It sheared off", that you are corrected as well. " - I think you're confusing shear with a torsional failure.....

[@beachboardfan9544]

6:15 matts kindred spirit 😆

[@ashleyscarth8363]

Buy or look at r n g crash bobbins

[@baptie3p798]

You need a spacer between the frame and the crash bar..

[@dirtygarageguy]

there is one - but not when it's not bolted together......

[@blipco5]

First thought, that spacer hole should have been sized to accept the bolt only. It looks much to large.

[@dirtygarageguy]

too large because?

[@blipco5]

The Workshop ...Too much of that bolt is hanging in the free air. It's contact points are at the threads in the block and then again under the head where it's only held by friction, as is evidenced by the shiny surface you pointed out. That spacer should have had a hole drilled to only clear the body of the bolt (12mm?) and width wise, to lock itself into the frame of the crash bars. In other words no slop. I'd machine more precise spacers.

[@gilbertreeves2084]

@@blipco5 He knows this...just waiting for him to come up w/his solution.

[@darrenmurray6128]

delbollox says you should of gone to Weemoto they have a special tool for that !!!!

[@darrenmurray6128]

Re the engine mystery engine lug is there another model zed that uses the same engine ?? on my MT10 there is a lug on the engine that looks like something is missing but its the R1m engine and that lug is for the R1m could be the same for the z900 ??

[@dirtygarageguy]

good question - I'll find out

[@theoctopusss7235]

lol lots of people down here blaming kawasaki im curious how many times matt specifically said its an aftermarket part tho?

[@JonSmith-cx7gr]

Twat it with a screwdriver, preferably pozidrive, but a phillips or even a flat head would probably be ok for a nice fresh bolt like this. Then unscrew. NB: This method has the advantage that you get to hit something with a hammer several times.

[@ledegraw]

Must have been some severe twisting in the frame to shear that off. Was there a sharp edge on the spacer that caused the failure?

[@dirtygarageguy]

"Must have been some severe twisting in the frame to shear that off." - Why?

[@ledegraw]

Thanks for the response and I rewatched the video to see what made me say that, when you added the bull bar, that changed the stress point on that bolt i would think. The normal bolt for the engine mount should have most of the stress against the head as you tighten it up, only the part of the bolt sticking out of the threads going through the frame will have shear forces which are calculated during intial engineering, so by using a longer bolt you have that much more bolt length, that as the farther you get from the original load point the more leverage against the bolts thread roots, minute frame movement on the oem bolt did not shear it but the addition of length and possibly a poor quality bolt could have contributed to the failure.

[@ANDY5]

Matt you're assuming that the crash bar won't bend if you happened to drop the bike. I would be pretty upset if it fell and the unsupported section deflected and punched a hole in your cylinder head. I think, if I were you, that I would prefer to replace a side cover than a head.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Drop the bike? I've never dropped a bike - who fucking drops their biek (tim) LOL

[@omegadun66]

If push really hard with that left twist drill bit and just bump the trigger then the drill bit bites way too deep and essentially becomes a screw driver. Another way I have done it is to drill a hole just slightly smaller than a flat head, tap the screw diver in and turn the bolt out. Just a couple of ideas.

[@skinz2211]

16:38 that lug might be used on other models

[@natashanathan1061]

X 2 right. Exchange in pairs, whenever possible. Love the channel. Signed; Grumpy Old Punk Rocker

[@mmdirtyworkz]

Bolt on my crash bobbins got off. I just noticed one day that right slider is missing and thread is sticking out. Got new ones and now I check them with my hand from time to time. I guess it came off due to engine vibrations.

[@badattitude9127]

Engine protectors all the way

[@Balsalmo]

17:14 How do you go about picking the strength of the fastener for things like this? My understanding is that if the fastener is too strong, in a spill it's going to break your engine case or the frame instead. Talking about non oem stuff of course.

[@dirtygarageguy]

nothing TOO strong ever broke.......

[@leovanniekerk9626]

Hello Matt i know this video isn't on the question i have but i was wondering if you know why the Yamaha xjr400 especially the 400,why its running so noisy what's the cause of the noise

[@dirtygarageguy]

You tell me - it could be bloody anything.......

[@leovanniekerk9626]

@@dirtygarageguy I see alot of post on the internet that state's they are overall noise bikes but i am still wondering why, it just doesn't sound right but maybe whe will never know maybe it's just the design of the engine!!

[@dirtygarageguy]

well air cooling is one thing - air cooled/oil cooled bikes are louder. But I'd forget the 'post on the internet' thing - loud compared to what?

[@leovanniekerk9626]

The xjr 400 is commonly a louder air cooled bike in comparison to other air cooled 4 cylinder bikes

[@dirtygarageguy]

like?

[@joolsfreeman5964]

Have you got a link for the left hand bits you used? I have 4 or 5 that need extracting from a cylinder head.

[@dirtygarageguy]

No. just buy them from a good tool supplier - if you live in the UK try drill-service.co.uk

[@JT-et7ui]

Just get some reg frame sliders, you’re not a noob rider. That huge bar look horrible on it. Never seen another naked or reg bike with such a big role cage around it, you’re not going off roaring on it! I’d rather risk the cost of replacing an engine cover. Did you rivet that front fender extender?

[@goinhot9133]

Why didn’t you just throw it on the MDM? (Metal disintegration machine)

[@chrisdavidson911]

what's the counterpart bolt on the other side like? can you get it out and do a magic fatigue test on it?

[@trevorellis1704]

Would you please be willing to do a talk on the different metals used on bikes. In this one you mentioned different strengths of steel.

[@nickthelebo]

neva heard of a easy out ????

[@dirtygarageguy]

Ever used an easy out? 1) they rarely come out 2) it ain't fucking easy

[@brockett]

Maybe the bolt would not have tipped and broken off if there was a spacer in the frame that sits proud of the frame that the bar butted up to.

[@dorrocrafter5618]

That ugly bit of metal is part of the standard bike?

[@dirtygarageguy]

No, how many times did I say that?

[@dorrocrafter5618]

@@dirtygarageguy yeah well welcome to the pitfalls of asking before watching the whole video, also unless I'm blind there's no front down pipe it's what got me curious.

[@rogermyers929]

@4:40 I hear harpic is great for cleaning your exhaust.

[@kieran1484]

hey mat, where do you buy your screws? places like amazon don't have full specs of there screws

[@samanthanixon3456]

Got a friend with a lathe that could run some super round spacers?🤠

[@eurobeatmachinist732]

make a new tight spacer from pom or nylon.

[@dirtygarageguy]

say what?

[@wildracoon666]

Looks better with it off, Crash bars cause more damage than good

[@wildracoon666]

Learn to ride lad

[@waynedl99]

We got a fucking hero

[@MrKdr500]

"snap off, flush" toilet 101....

[@snafusnafu7409]

Broken bolt is that Ur new name for Ur bike hehehe

[@peromo9397]

PS. Hurrah for your rivets! Lol

[@k1ckyscotland988]

Order a replacement for all of the fasteners.

[@cobail1]

Just had a nightmare with a bolt that keeps the plastics on my ER6N. Head was a screwdriver (cross head) and it wouldn't crack off. Used mole grips on the screwdriver, GT85 and put my weight on and it was just starting to tear the slot so i decided to put some heat on it. Still nothing. Got my impact driver but it chewed the slots. Drilled the head off, but it was only an M5 so didn't want to risk snapping an easy out when its so tight. Luckily, there was about 8-10 mm of bolt on the back end. Filed flats on and used a small adjustable. Took 2 hours because I could only get about 10 minutes of angle. Gutted though, I bought the easy outs and impact driver years ago because I knew one day they would come in handy! For sale, Impact driver (only used once) and easy outs (unopened).

[@1963Wicky]

get hold of JIS screwdrivers!

[@missydee6085]

Hey Matt, I trust you're gonna chamfer the threads on new bolts/screws - in order to make 'em stoopid fast? 🤠

[@sttnmal]

Bolt removal how long two years we needed drum roll Lol

[@zedman442]

Take it off not needed. Just like them plastic under trays you get on cars 😉

[@FreeOnGoal]

the head of the bolt probably went through the visor of some poor bastard ....

[@midas61]

A2 stainless engine to frame bolt probably wasn't the best thing to have in there in the first place old son...

[@dirtygarageguy]

It's what they supplied........

[@midas61]

@@dirtygarageguy It would probably have been fine if the engine wasn't being used as a stressed member...That track day was probably just to much for it to cope with. They should have also specified some thread lubrication with that stainless bolt going into Aluminium. But, hey-ho, we live and learn. Trust me, I've learned the hard way once or twice :)

[@andrewcalvert2013]

Aftermarket crashbar bolt too long? Had this with DHM bungs, 10mm shorter, trust me, she wont ntice.....

[@goinhot9133]

I own 2 left handed drill bits and 3 right handed screw drivers!

[@rogermyers929]

left handed screw drivers are best used for stirring stripey paint

[@goinhot9133]

I only use my screw drivers on bolts.

[@missydee6085]

@@goinhot9133 Handy Hint: If you slather the screwdriver tips in copper grease, the bolts will come out quicker. 👍

[@PRB1098]

Yeah, but look at those pipes though,you need some Harpic on them boy 😉

[@johnnypsycho9628]

Rusty surface COPPER GREASE ?!?!?!!? Loosening Bolt ? You'll need Lock Tight .. Or you could do a Gaffer tape and some tape with a touch of Matt paint to " Hide it " . Has anyone said you look like Dustin ? Keep up the good work

[@rushiiiop]

hi matt, what do you think about single point sliders? like this one tinyurl.com/yxjft28x , should I upgrade to a 2 point or 3 point slider or just stick with this one?

[@jeremytoms5163]

Should used copper grease when you fitted it 😂😂

[@rogermyers929]

And a cable tie where that missing bolt is.

[@coderedcamaro4812]

Alot of fucking going on here lol

[@robdefire4747]

Dont mount crash protection to the lower lug. If it falls it will snap the lug off and maybe take a bit of the cyl with it. Seen that on hornets. I would say it was just a shit bolt. Probably nothing to do with the track day.

[@adivarso8175]

yo

[@wibblywobblyidiotvision]

Aftermarket parts come with bolts made from cheese. Whod'a thunk it? That clamping solution is dogshite, you've sheared off at the bottom of the spacer, vibration, shit bolts and bad design to blame. Not bad for a hand job, though. Given the setup, hole at the bottom of a cylindrical bore, and having a lathe, I would have been tempted to make a quick drill guide to hit the bolt centrally, in case I actually needed to drill it right out to the threads. As you don't have a lathe there, you could have asked Del to make you one. Or you could have used the spacer.