USING J-B WELD IN THE WORKSHOP TO REPAIR A MODEL STEAM ENGINE

[@mathuetax]

One of the better J-B WELD endorsements I've seen, and probably the most amusing! Hats off to you!

[@Mishn0]

I'm glad it worked for you. I used it to glue a motorcycle mirror / turn signal housing that I broke by tossing the bike off the back of a pickup. That was about eight years ago and it's still together.

[@Buckaro0_Banza1]

Really the first time you seen JB??? its as hard as steel. I love it. I'm a locomotive electrician / mechanic, JB has saved jobs many of times where I couldn't get replacement parts.

[@jusb1066]

its not quite so common in the UK< but i notice you can get it most places now

[@ian-c.01]

Just watched this for the 4th time to get another close up look at that nice little engine ! I love those tiny details !

[@Phantomthecat]

I've glued a timing cover together with JB and it's been on the vehicle - a daily driver - for 4 years now and is as new, no oil leaks, nothing. Filling stripped threads and re drilling and tapping the holes is also another great use for it.

[@Johnkels100]

If you let it dry for an hour or two after mixing it does not run so muchr there is also a quick drying version. Great stuff fixed a water leak on a car cylinder block it lasted for years in fact outlasted the car Thanks for all the great videos.

[@etheroar6312]

J-B Weld works cquite well on most plastics, wood, cloth(although it does stiffen it a bit), and nearly anythiong else. I've been using it for about 50 years. Lovely stuff.

[@paulrichmond6903]

Keith, JB Weld is great stuff. It’s been around for years in various forms. The one thing it does not handle well is extreme heat. It’ll be interesting to see how it holds up on that engine when it’s been running on steam for a while. Always enjoy your videos. Please keep us entertained.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I have fixed an old rubbish alloy carburettor bowl on an International Farmall with JB weld, it is nice and almost fluid and resistant to fuel. Great stuff.

[@trainsbangsandautomobiles824]

Wow, I can't believe they don't sell this over there. As a automotive mechanic, we use JB weld quite often for small repairs. Like anything it has its limitations, but is really good stuff. A KZbin channel called "project farm" recently tested it against other epoxys and it came out on top. I fixed a throttle cable bracket on my ford escort sedan 2 years ago with it, and its still holding

[@StripeyType]

I've never proselytized much about the Gospel of JB Weld, but I am a very quiet convert. Every deployment I ever did, I always took some, because I always found that there would be equipment which could benefit from some attention with some JB Weld. I'm awfully pleased to see that you've found it useful. Here in the US, it's possible to get the stuff in VERY LARGE tubes (like 8 Oz tubes of each part) I've got a friend in France who can find neither JB Weld nor proper North American peanut butter, and so i send some of each every once in a while. I haven't heard back in a bit though, so I hope they haven't confused the one for the other.

[@FredMiller]

JB weld is a STAPLE in my shop. I have even drilled and tapped it when making unusual repairs. It is a great product. I am pleased you reviewed it and found it works for you.

[@williamgorman2403]

i have used jb weld to repair the intake valve seat in a generator head on a boat...and after a few months there was a hurricane in Florida and the customer told me he ran the boat genny to power his house for 3 full days non-stop and there were no issues...I used 26 tubes of the pair and 16 layers for 20 days of work and then 5 days of grinding the shape I wanted...I love the stuff

[@sethg6157]

I quite like JB Weld I once used it to repair a large crack in a pressurized water line In the feild, and that repair held for a month untill the new section arived :) also wonderful video as always glad to see the adjustable spanner getting a work out ;)

[@robozstarrr8930]

great stuff....used it to fix the petcock handles on my Norton...wrapping with dental floss adds more strength.... another tip, using it with (woman's) fiberglass nail wrap (tape), works well on those " odd " repairs. . . thxs for the videos, ya remind me of my dad!

[@jonc1736]

Mr. Appleton, you're absolutely not the first or last to have a bear of a time with that stuff. Exactly the product I'd use for this repair though (U.S. obviously). Also the 5 minute JB Weld is (as far as I can tell) as good as the long set stuff, but noxious as it sets. Great videos, don't burn yourself out :)

[@josys363]

Dad used to use JB Weld all the time. And, I always have the quick set and the regular versions out in the shop. Sure comes in handy at times.

[@roberthorner8494]

KEITH, I HAVE ACTUALLY USED JB WELD TO MAKE PARTS FOR MY MODEL TRAIN REPAIRS.

[@D3faulted1]

PC-7 is another really good epoxy to try. It has a 24hr cure time (longer if it's cold). But what i like about it is that it has a period where it's still soft but it's not tacky. You can easily file and shape it to what you want the final look to be and then just let it finish curing.

[@johnkinnane547]

Very good Keith, I've seen that JB Weld down here never used it but your test shore did prove it to be good, thanks mate regards John

[@rogerhalcrow2358]

Many years ago I repaired the rear main bearing cap on my Austin Healy Sprite with a similar product was still going 5 years later when I sold it Roger

[@TheForcedinductn]

JB Weld is pretty great, I recently used it to seal a cracked water jacket on a car engine!

[@rogercrier]

It also has a good ability to keep working at high temperatures, within reason! It is the highest temp Epoxy I have seen.

[@DoRC]

I've been using jb my whole life. I've tried every other major brand and jb is the top. Yes it takes time to sure but it's worth the wait. I've tapped threads which i subsequently torqued bolts into. I've never had a failure that wasn't due to me waaaaaay overstepping it's intended use.

[@TrainClown]

I have a 1982 Dodge 350 Van. It has a 360 engine. I love it! The one recurring problem I was having had to do with the 4 barrel Quadrajet carburetor, what is made from 3 main parts. the top assembly and bottom base are cast aluminum, but the center body section is made from bakelite. With our harsh -40c winters, the bakelite developed a bunch of cracks and I had a serious fuel leak. A new carb is close to $700.00 cdn. so that was out of the question. I tried all sorts of stuff to close up the cracks. Even stuff that was supposedly made to fix leaking gas tanks..... Nothing worked very well at all. I patched her up with JB Weld. That was 3 years ago and it is still working fine. Gasoline is a real tough thing to contain, it will eat just about anything, but not JB Weld. I love the stuff and have all sorts of applications around here. On real tough jobs I like to make a brass plate splint that goes over the repair ( after the initial repair has cured) and shape the brass to make a sort of cap over the area and then mix a big blob of JB Weld, smear it all over the splint and press it over the repair. I have never had a repair like this fail, not on an engine block, not on a gear. One thing I would like to point out from experience is, if it was me repairing that engine flange, I would have put some masking tape on just to make sure the part don't slip out of place. JB Weld remains viscous for an hour or so and parts can slip out of alignment with the slightest vibration, like the train going past our place or someone slamming a door. If you goop on a big ugly blob,after a couple of hours just after it has kicked, it's still soft enough that you can easy carve the blob to the shape you want. This trick can save you time by making one application instead of 2 and reduce the time it would take to grind or file it once cured. Also, one application won't have the fracture line between the two applications. But, be careful, because if there is a way for the JB Weld to follow gravity and run down, it will. So I use masking tape to fashion a damn when I see this could happen. I wanted to share these tips with you because I am learning so much from your videos and I wanted to give you something back. I hope you find this useful. Best regards, Christopher Dowie

[@sjgerber]

Hi Keith Have been using JB Weld for years on full-size V8 engines to repair castings where welding is not required or feasible. I have seen how splines on a drive shaft was repaired and is still going strong. they spray the female side of the spline coupling with WD40 or other oil will also work. JB doesn't stick to oily surfaces. The male side gets a liberal JB weld coating after thorough de-greasing. Insert the splines and leave for 24 hours. After 24 hours splines should be able to separate and the worn splines will be repaired.

[@tomzettel105]

Hey Keith J B weld is great in certain applications it will seal even work great hydraulics repair but not in all of applications thanks for sharing and I hope You find it usefull. Tom Canada

[@ByrdMann2010]

I know of a former American TV presenter named Roger Welsh who restores old tractors. In one of his books he talks about using JB Weld to repair a crack in the cylinder of an old tractor and it was able to run again afterwards.

[@keith0alan]

This is a great high temperature epoxy. It has successfully been used to fill scoring from wandering wrist pins on small gas engines.

[@raymondj8768]

good stuff you can drill it tap it its really strong stuff .

[@georgehoskins1228]

JB Weld has changed it's formulation recently. The old tube type JB had a high temp rating and could be used on engines (unfortunately no longer available) but the modern tube stuff is more like ordinary epoxy. To get the high temp rating you have to use the stick type which you cut and knead together to form a paste.

[@georgemartinezjr]

JB weld makes JB weld Steel which a 2 part Putty very Strong

[@110samec]

JB weld is good as is belzona, used it to repair all sorrs , currenly holding the overflow spigot in place on my land rover radiator

[@mysticvirgo9318]

YEha, Keith and mates, J-B weld is wonderful stuff.. just don't use it to plug holes in petrol tanks unless the tank is dead empty, else it will NEVER cure. other than that , wonderful stuff! There is a Gent on youtube that constructed a full position for a small petrol engine and it ran and lasted very well.

[@milantrcka121]

Indeed JB Weld is magnetic due to iron filings it contains. Holds stripped studs quite well.

[@georgemartinezjr]

They also make JB weld Steel Epoxy Putty very good

[@keithappleton]

That is what I normally use . . .

[@Gauge1LiveSteam]

After JB Weld just sets up you can smoothen it out with a lacquer thinner on a cloth. It will take out the streaks and belt into surrounding metal.

[@shanek6582]

"A little JB weld and a little paint, will make a mechanic out of one that ain't. " a saying from the same type of guy that's also fond of saying while at work, "you can't see it from my house"

[@tobyw9573]

I have used JB Weld occasionally since the 1970s and it is very good under compression perhaps like softish aluminum and pretty good under tension. It adheres better the cleaner the parts are, and I use a succession of cleanings with lacquer thinner and compressed air (safety glasses important) Cast iron may need a soak to get oil out of the pores, but I mainly used it for aluminum cylinder heads to repair erosion where the head joined the block. You may have noticed the uneven remains on the test piece you broke off with your axe. Looks like insufficient cleaning, perhaps. I like to mix it with a spatula or putty knife on a piece of smooth cardboard or galvanized sheet metal which I hang on a screw off the end of my bench. A putty knife seems to mix it very thoroughly and quickly with alternate scraping and wiping motions, blade held at an angle. Best to scrape the metal mixing board clean with the putty knife and wipe the knife clean on the end of a straight piece of metal. Cleaning gives exposure to properties of JBW. JBW softens and runs several minutes after mixing, beware when you are doing build up work and that any dams you build are leak proof. Shrinkage may require a second coat to fill evenly. You can make a duplicate form with JBW to test for hardness, adhesiveness, and pertinent properties for critical work. Old tubes may seal better if you take care to clean threads on tube and screw the cap over a piece of thin plastic food wrap, I use Saran Wrap. Only the dark material tends to dry and glue the cap on.

[@headstocktailstock]

It's good stuff,I use it to fill in the [[odd?] imperfection on my castings.

[@KenShields]

Huh, I didn't realize JB Weld was mostly only known in the US. I've had pretty good luck with it, and if it has failed it's always down to me not getting the parts clean enough or not being patient enough.

[@jimwayne5850]

That's good stuff. I like JB Kwik set too. :)

[@thefish6777]

Keith, JB weld is a very good product, but it should be remembered that it is still an epoxy, so parts you do not wish to permanently afix should be coated in a thin release agent, bees wax will work. Another metal epoxy can be gotten at Brownell's, they have both steel and aluminum. Lastly, I don't know if you can get it over there, but for loosening screws without deforming you should look into something called PB Blaster. I use it on antique revolvers where I don't want to destroy a recalcitrant screw. It also works wonders for removing lead deposits in barrels, so you can probably think of a good use for it. Lastly, lastly there is another item, it's called "sweet shooter" and once it's applied it will just about prevent all surface rust. Best from Texas

[@keithappleton]

Useful Info - Thanks Brian [:-)))))

[@murmurmuram8533]

LOL. well i don't need to worry about the horde coming to my shop, but the JB wield looks pretty useful ! thanks for the tip.

[@patrickcowan8701]

hope you cleaned all the surfaces well with isopropyl or another good cleaner it makes a huge difference in the bond.

[@keithappleton]

Yes I did ..... the surfaces were clean as a whistle ..... whatever that means :-)))

[@patrickcowan8701]

Keith Appleton yeah whistle's are dirty.

[@tombombadil2793]

J-B Weld is really good.

[@godfreypoon5148]

I've not used JB Weld, but I do often use a product called Belzona 1111. I have had very good results with it, including a particularly critical high pressure oil pump that has performed well for several years now. But it's horrendously expensive in comparison.

[@thenextstepp]

There's also some other stuff that comes in a tube that your knead together... it's super tough and even thread-able but it requires both surfaces to be extremely clean to get a good connection. JB Weld or similar products are definitely worth having around.

[@keithappleton]

I often use "Milliput" which is a two pack Epoxy Putty. I think the strength of this J-B Weld suff comes from the slow curing speed so it penetrates well, and maybe the metal filings as a additive.

[@MrMistery101]

If money isn't an issue(or if you can sneak out from the jobsite with leftovers), there's always 3M. Scotch weld structural or their Impact resistant structural adhesives are fantastic.

[@manicmechanic1881]

Keith Appleton they also have a product from the same company called jb quic cures fast and just as hard and durable can be drilled,tapped even machined works very well on automotive blocks cast iron and aluminium up to 220 degrees f at ruffly 16 to 20 lbs of pressure

[@Godshole]

This brings back fond memories of my old man and me in the garage using Plastic Padding which is a very similar 2 part filler/bonding agent. I can almost smell it :) One time we repaired a hole in a motorcycle side casing which never leaked oil again. Very durable and as Dad would say, " Sticks like sh!* to a blanket".

[@toddk.5873]

I had an issue a little while back with JB Weld that was sitting in my tool box for probably 10 years. It didn't harden up too good. My point being, I think it has a shelf life of only a few years at best. Maybe it was just me, but I threw it away & bought a new package. Just saying in case you have the same issue.

[@MichaelLloyd]

I have never tried J-B Weld but I think I'll add a pack to the toolbox.

[@frasercanyonballer]

j-b weld ,,is very popular here in bc canada,i put a chainsaw,,crankcase and fuel ,oil tanks(that was ran over by a cat ,(bulldozer) back together when i was a teen 1985 (a very-very long time ago ) was back to work the next day ,,it fell and limbed 5 o 6 loads of fir logs,and was still running good

[@Revoku]

to use JB weld and its other similar types like PC-7, apply like bondo/body filler, sand/file to shape, use it like its liquid metal that will set hard in 24 hours

[@eshafto]

That's what happens when you clean up your shop, Keith. It was probably detritus piled up around the door that was holding up the entrance. My "workshop" (in quotes because it is no longer possible to work there) is safe from such a catastrophe.

[@Dallen9]

Only thing I'd worry about with JB weld is if it got on the treads that part isn't coming apart. without that that axe smashing it apart.

[@rlbadger1698]

I repaired a hole in an engine block (threw a rod threw it)with jb in a 1952 VW. That was in 1976, she's still running.

[@Super1337357]

JB weld is holding together many of the non-critical components of my truck

[@patrickradcliffe3837]

Big tip coming degrease the parts before using JB weld especially on very small parts. I have used it quite extensively when I was in US Navy repairing airplanes.

[@VanWinger]

I had a engine run for over 50 thousand miles with a crack in the water jacket thanks to this stuff, it's when I learned that even Florida cars need some anti-freeze and not just water.

[@CKOD]

JB weld is good for a lot of heat too IIRC 350C is on the online information. JB Kwik (5 minute variety of JB weld) is still pretty good, but I think they only claim ~200C. Not sure how hot steam and steam-oil would affect it though, pretty harsh environment for any adhesive. So maybe not for gluing a finger back onto the back of a slide valve :o)

[@Buckaro0_Banza1]

you should love JB weld

[@Buckaro0_Banza1]

well that's loads of jb

[@Buckaro0_Banza1]

JB weld fixes locomotives in the US. I speak from experience.

[@DMPB-fi2ir]

jb weld is pretty rugged. one key that also when doing like the lug or other surface finish work ( used like body filler ) also clean surface with a non residue degreaser . i've actually seen a test done with it where a cylinder head was molded from jb weld as a joke and the engine ran and worked quiet well. and another where a guy here on youtube made a lawn mower head with jb weld as a test

[@SAM-zt2uy]

Tried it on my volvos exhaust manifold to no joy

[@keithappleton]

an internal combustion engine exhaust manifold gets far too hot for a material like this that is Epoxy Resin based.

[@userunavailable3095]

Marauding barbarian hoards? Like Vandals? Is that what happened to the shop door?

[@kenny5174]

The same company makes a version called JB quick. I think it's more like the 5 minute type.

[@nikhilbhale79]

If you can try and get a epoxy product by name Devcon. They have several different products like steel putty, brass putty, titanium putty etc. I am not in any way connected to Devcon just use it regularly on offshore rigs that I work on.

[@deanerichardson8930]

And you can even drill & tap it, I know because I have done it.

[@reiner0609]

Did you coat the thread on the bolt with something to prevent the J-B Weld from sticking to it? Or is this the problem for the next person to disassemble the engine ;-)

[@keithappleton]

Yes of course I did ......

[@reiner0609]

May I ask what type of coating works for this?

[@keithappleton]

a very tiny amount of grease on the threads does the trick . . . . and of course I didn't apply any J-B Weld to the part next to the threads.

[@richhoffman9520]

I use JB Weld to repair all my 13th century axes and weapons. I also have no connection to or receive compensation from JB Weld

[@stephensimpson5283]

See, I knew I needed a 13th Century axe. I was using a 16th century. Silly me. 😆

[@JamesPetts]

Do you have many Barbarian hoards wandering into your workshop?

[@keithappleton]

well, to be honest, not very often these days . . . . just the electricity meter reader really . . . .

[@fromfin90]

that's almost as bad!

[@JamesPetts]

I expect that the axe scares them off.

[@toysareforboys1]

If you want to lop his head off, no worry.

[@Eo_Tunun]

How many of them are in your pickle bath at the moment?

[@rinislaboratories1315]

What is your favorite model steam engine you have build/repaired?

[@keithappleton]

I like the Stuart 5A, but the best one that I have repaired for me is the Stuart Major Beam Engine

[@75Bird455]

Keith Appleton do you have any experience with the PM model engine? I was thinking of their 6CI for a first build. Pretty large, bigger than a Victoria I think.

[@commando340]

their kits are excellent, fine drawings. and if you ruin a part, they will send another one at a resonable cost. no instructions on how to do things, but very high quality castings.

[@bulta209]

They make a 5 min JB weld.

[@trainsbangsandautomobiles824]

Yes but its no where near as strong

[@osgeld]

yea but its pretty much standard issue 5 min epoxy

[@jusb1066]

slower is stronger

[@mikus4242]

Now if it was a Bahco Adjustable Axe that would be something....

[@frankyboy4409]

That axe needs sharpening :D

[@keithappleton]

True, but it's sharp enough for now ..... :-)))) I have a large Danish War Axe in my modest collection and that is so sharp that I have to keep the leather blade guard on it .......

[@jimmymeyer7758]

j-b weld will lose its bonding ability when the tubes have been opened and sit around for 3 months, i always buy new if it is a critical part that needs repaired.

[@biglift1]

Araldite is superior to this stuff. Araldite is even approved for aviation use . now put the engine under steam and the jb weld will fail under the heat of the steam.

[@keithappleton]

we shall see ......