Motorcycle Rim Repair: It's how you look playing the game! Part 3

[@KeithFenner]

Learning is what its all about and sharing cool stuff from the outside is good! This is a WE channel!

[@welshrestorer]

Another excellent series, thank you.

[@gasworker3042]

Congratulations on Breaking the 10,000 subscriber mark, I love your videos and I thank you for teaching your knowledge to us :)

[@esoomreltna]

Keith, Great trick with the welding of the rod to the bearing in the wheel!

[@ArtemiaSalina]

That was a great discussion on measuring bore ID's, Keith. I learned a lot from it. All I have, as a hobbyist, is a decent set of dial calipers for measuring ID's. I can see now that I'll have to invest in some snap gages if I want to do more accurate work! Thanks!

[@KeithFenner]

My thoughts also, Bruce!

[@billshuey7422]

It is like reliving my childhood. My father taught me how to use spring calipers and micrometers when I was 6 or 7 years old. Thank you for doing your videos. Note if a digital micrometer is dirty it WILL give a false reading

[@KeithFenner]

personal preference

[@TFB82]

"These are a reference tool.." YES! Calipers to check your progress until you're close. Micrometers when you absolutely have to be sure.

[@KeithFenner]

When it comes to bearings, I hold to the Manufacture or standard SAE. Bearing tolerances, but for regular press fits it varies between .0005 to .001 per inch in diameter up to 6”, due to the application. ;{)-----

[@GRMS_Ian]

Thanks for the discussion about bore measurement. When you mention the sizes it's of great va. I also only use the "vernier to get near" ... Get it? LOL!

[@KeithFenner]

Its a Clausing Cholchester some say Mascott I think

[@Darryl603]

Hi, I believe that all the trouble stems from the shim behind the sprocket (more specifically, the nut that was tightening down the stack up) so eliminating that and adding it into the finished part made a lot more sense. Awesome series

[@VoidedWarranty]

Thanks Keith! I was fiddling with some small model engine cylinders and trying to figure out how to get a measurement of the bore when the bore is smaller than my smallest snap gauge. Looks like spring calipers is the right tool for the job! (within my current price range anyway)

[@KeithFenner]

Not that I know about!

[@donaldpruett852]

Keith I've been watching your videos for a couple of years now. Very intriguing and interesting. I love this stuff although I've had limited (2 years) machine shop experience. Your motorcycle drive wheel hub is where I am tonight. You seem to be confused about that spacer that goes between the hub and the sprocket. Me too. Which ever side it goes on will likely determine if the primary (Front drive) sprocket correctly lines up with the secondary (rear) sprocket. That chain must not be misaligned between sprockets. That would be disastrous for a drag bike. My shop work was in 1969 & 1970. Old school indeed!

[@dryhter]

Like Keith said in the vid. it's all about feel. Depending on the ratchet on the mic you could affect the actual reading by deflection, such as with the spring calipers. Keith mentioned briefly about adjusting your mic,everyone has a different feel. I always found the ratchet to be about. 001 to .0015 heavier than what I liked, feel wise.

[@fpreston9527]

I used to race tz250's and 350's . they always suffered with vibrating the rear sprockets loose . looks like this sprocket and spacer has done the same over time . a trick we used to use was to machine some groves into the sprocket and apply a bead of silicone sealer as the sprocket was fitted . with nuts tight and wire locked the problem went away !

[@KeithFenner]

You may also be able to use hole gages! ;{)---

[@MrJohnnaz]

I take it that your lathe is a radius machine, on the crosslide. The Clausing I have is a diameter set up.

[@BruceBoschek]

Very nice. Interesting to see your take on the bearing removal. It does seem a pity to use (or make) a spacer instead of incorporating the half inch or whatever it is right into the part. Or is there a reason to have a spacer there?

[@gbowne1]

A friend of mine has a small business making half nuts so if you ever need new half nuts I'm sure I could talk him into making a set.

[@LowCountryCamo]

Kieth your videos are getting better all the time. Thanks! Are you a member of PracticalMachinist on the web? I sight your work there often as do others. Matter of fact, that's how I found you. The subject was repairing worn shafting via welding and your video Weld Fusion Overlay was sited. Thanks again.

[@Katov2]

Keith great stuff. One question are not roller bearing metric as in the 206 is 62mm OD x 30mm ID x 16mm wide? they are in Australia mostly only taper bearing are in inches down under. Cheers Richard

[@mxcollin95]

I've learned a ton from this little motorcycle rim series so thank you Keith for doing it!

[@20GeneStarwind20]

hey Keith for aluminum u dont have to us high speed steal cutting bits u can us carbide inserts do u per for the high speed over to carbide? but fantastic work makes me regret joining the marine corps with i continued my schooling as a machinist miss being on a lath or a mill.

[@futten3230]

bababa naughty naughty grabbin metal swirl with hands :P

[@fpreston9527]

a sharp edge on a long steel rod through the inside would have got your bearing out . the spacer inside usually pushes over enough to pick up the bearing with the rod

[@KeithFenner]

I like switching up! ;{)-----

[@Teunbaartman1]

the application would be the shank into the holder part of a weldon holder. It will be used in a milling machine so there are considerable forces involved. Would .001mm per inch be sufficient? thx Teun

[@joleenmorganjohn]

When ever I change wheel bearings in my dirtbikes the center spacer will slide out of the way just enough to reveal 1/16" to about 3/32" of the inner race. Its very little to engage with but a 1/2 " rod canted through the bore swapping from side to side does get them out. They are a light press fit. I'm wondering if the spacer behind the sproket is their ajustment to align the chain to the front sproket?

[@CDareHill]

Using the large spacer behind the sprocket only weakens sprocket to hub connection. The thickness of the spacer should have been left solid on the hub, don't you think?

[@gentharris]

Yea I wondered why you didn't eliminate the spacer???

[@paulduffey7975]

It has dawned on me that while I am learning I am also unlearning. Thank you for clearing things up like using caliper as opposed to mic.

[@KeithFenner]

Ah! You caught on to me! LOL See even if I’m working with MM’s it is still just a decimal to me. Thanks for the comment, shows you’re paying attention and noticed not everyone gets to their final destination, on the same route! ;{)---

[@mashed-out]

Dude...were you one of the Mayflower mechanics?🤣

[@Teunbaartman1]

Hi Keith, what is your rule of thumb for a press fit in terms of difference in diameter ID/OD. thx, Teun (the Netherlands)

[@KeithFenner]

I think .05mm per 25mm in diameter would be closer to my rule. ;{)----

[@futten3230]

something tells me he already knows that

[@DL5FS]

im working for press fit and other bore with Grenzdorn oder Rachenlehre sorry it is German i have look at my translator i find this here cross thorn revenge teaching not shure but i think you know what i mean ?? and also i calibrate the micrometer with ceramic gauge block !! thanks :)

[@imbro84]

Keith talks about it at 16:30.

[@Travisfromoregon]

Have you any idea how many parts I messed up when learning that "these are a reference tool" Lol

[@magee16749]

what kind of lathe is that

[@atcaleb]

Keith, the slide hammer tool doesn't work for those wheel bearings. Ever. I have plenty of years in a shop doing it by the oem service manual. You always take a long punch and going through the bearing spacer barely catch the inner race of the bearing. Then you tap it out. Sometimes a trip to the grinder with the punch is needed. I have done countless customer jobs this way. It's the only practical way to do it in a shop. Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda, Kawasaki shop. Wasted my youth there for peanuts.

[@markrich3271]

Have you fixed your backlash issues yet? IE new nuts?

[@KeithFenner]

Not yet, that will be a video series. ;{)-----

[@LowCountryCamo]

Hey I just realize that last comment was a bit spammy. I have no affiliation other than learning a great deal from them. Sorry.

[@SirDeanosity]

Rather than welding the rod to the bearing how about this: put a steel strap of a length equal to the bearing outer diameter with rounded ends and just able to fit through the bearing and on a string to keep it in place. With the strap against the bearing push on the rod. This should prevent bearing damage from heat and off center stress.

[@kd5yut]

winner winner chicken dinner