Kenwood TS-530 Bandswitch Repair

[@jaywardjulian6163]

I just swapped mine with the brass copper couplers from ke4aa and as I loosened and take out all tiny screws using a 1.5mm allen wrench and then I gently pull out the shaft from the front while it was on 10mhz gently slowly until you see that there is enough space for the plastic coupler to come out of the opening in front of the PA cage and be watchful of the pin clip that's touching the shaft. Best to disconnect it prior pulling out to avoid it falling in between. I didn't have to break the couplers and i was able to take it out. Thanks for this video definitely learned a lot.

[@radiok2ua]

I had the same problem, with the same exact failure, in my TS-830S during Field Day last year. I got the part from K4EAA as well. I think you did a good job showing the level of difficulty of this repair due to the tight quarters involved. I found it useful to remove the spring wire that keeps pressure on the band switch shaft that's mounted to the outside wall of the final section, break the shaft coupler into parts with a long needlenose pliers (much as you did with the screwdriver), and then pull the shaft out until I could get to the allen screws on the front section and then remove that piece from outside the final enclosure. It doesn't take great care to keep from damaging anything in the coil area. Getting it back together was a bit easier that way also, since I put the new coupler on the long shaft and then slid it into the final compartment. That worked well for me. While I was at it, I also replaced the flaky relay on the bottom of the radio, which has something like 14 pins soldered to the board. K4EAA also sells a really nice replacement board with common relays in socketed pins for that. Removing and replacing the old relay took maybe half as much time as doing the band switch repair. Thanks for the good video.

[@rickvia8435]

Thanks, Man. I just NOW had my bandswitch go out on my TS-830s. I hope I can get it back in order as well as you did...

[@garyabc]

BTW, for others making this repair, the allen wrench (hex wrench for the coupler) is a 1.5mm wrench.

[@eldespojo]

Hello Would you be so kind as to give me some advice? I have a Kenwood TS 530s with the following symptoms: In RX: heater=off, Reception is correct. heater=on, Reception is lost. In TX: Selector in SSB: IP readings: reading 0 Even negative, ALC readings: reading 0 Even negative, All components of the final step plate are in good condition. Could it be a valve12BY7a problem? or the electronics of its periphery? Thank you.

[@garyabc]

Great video, Joe. I just made the same repair, but I'm not sure that I have the front shaft properly lined up with the rear shaft. The two shafts do not have the same profile/cross section. The shaft in the front portion of the radio are lined up fine with each other (9 o'clock dimple on the white plastic center) as well as with the front panel and the switch detent. But I'm not sure that I have the rear shaft for the portion of the band-switch shaft inside the high voltage cage lined up correctly with the front shaft. I bought the radio broken and the plastic coupler was broken and spinning free. Now the ability to tune the transmitter varies by band. Output power is low. I suspect the wrong tank circuit is being switched in on the wrong band. Any clues about the rear switch position for a particular band setting? Need to align the front shaft with the rear shaft.

[@rick38ohio75]

garyabc i aswell have the same problem have u found the cure

[@radiok2ua]

I realize this is old but it may help someone else. The grub screws are on only one side of the factory coupler. So use the same method shown in this video and align the marks from the grub screws on the two shafts to get the position correct before installing the new coupler.

[@eduardopower5254]

Hey buddy please what's the diameter of shaft coupler you replaced? Tha ks 73.

[@pkptv2439]

I performed this repair but now the rig won't work on receive. Quiet static sounds coming from the speaker, so the audio stage is probably OK. No rise in amplitude when connecting the antenna, so looks like no RF getting through. I did remove the screws on the RF stage PCB in order to allow a bit more movement when extracting the old coupler and have read that earthing contact via these screws is essential so have checked them, not found an issue there. Is there a possibility that the shaft into the PA stage is out of alignment with the RX stage? Would that cause the rig to stop working on receive? I have not tried transmit yet - no point if I can't receive first.

[@brucegordon7248]

Kenwood should have used metal couplers in the first place. Those mickey mouse plastic couplers were awful.