Kite DLG Build Log Part 2

[@ArmSoar]

The Kite DLG is available from our US website for $750: bit.ly/kitedlg

[@chuckneil2184]

Nice Manicure.....good job, easy follow, very smooth

[@ArmSoar]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@kev4354]

Very informative and easy to follow Thanks

[@ArmSoar]

Thank you!

[@funkysaxmankt]

Great! Thanks for completing this Thomas.

[@ArmSoar]

No problem!

[@creep7009]

Hey thomas have u noticed that the vertical stabilizer has a non symetrical profile so its actually more like a wing and creates lift do you have any idea why they have done this??? greetz

[@ArmSoar]

The vast majority of competition DLGs are designed this way. It helps straighten the model faster at launch, but in our regular flying speeds it is designed to keep flying straight.

[@creep7009]

@@ArmSoar thanks thomas

[@Helicopterpilot16]

@@ArmSoar I noticed this on my Deviant and figured what you said was the reasoning behind it.

[@banko444]

Do you think the internal flap linkages are really worth that kind of effort? A lot of trouble for build, assembly, etc etc looks like. I like the way the BAMF 2 is set up 100x better personally.

[@ArmSoar]

I wouldn't say it was a lot of trouble, I just didn't follow the instructions properly. But with the first one under my belt, the 2nd will be very easy. That said, I'm a bit biased but I do prefer the way we do it on the BAMF 2. This is our 5th model using this type of pushrod system, and it's been quite refined. I like things that are simple and straightforward. But I acknowledge that a good number of people prefer having internal pushrods, so it's good that there's a choice.

[@magneresjuan]

great video ! could you tell me what product is the " kicker"? after you use a CA ? im from argentina and don´t know what product is this kicker, you use it in order to dry the CA? thanks

[@ArmSoar]

Hi, it is called CA Kicker or CA Accelerator. It helps CA glue cure quickly.

[@magneresjuan]

@@ArmSoar thanks !

[@MissurayLaslo]

Nice work !

[@ArmSoar]

Thank you for watching!

[@jessieharry12]

Just wondering what Frsky Rx you recommend now that GRx6 is no longer available? Seems not much space behind servos.

[@ArmSoar]

Archer GR6 or R6, or if running Twin, then Twin GR6 or R6.

[@funkysaxmankt]

Thomas, I am in the process of building the Kite kit I bought from you. I studied both videos (part 1 & 2) and the buidling instructions PDF. I noticed in the instructions the output spline for all 4 servos is situated to the rear but in part 2 of your build you have the output splines for the two aileron servos different in that the forward one is aft and the aft one is forward. I don't see any push rod clearance problems with this and think it will minimize unwanted interaction by making the pushrods as close to the same length as possible but just wanted to know your thought process for this deviation. I am setting mine up the same as yours but I want to push the servos a little more away from the centerline so that the pushrod from the front servo doesn't make contact with the motor of the rear servo. The consequence for this is that the pushrods will be further apart and closer to the outside of the fuse where I need to cut the slots for them to pass through. I did bias my servo arms toward the nose and averaged the difference of one servo's subtrim (+14) with the other so that both of them are at +7. This resulted in exactly the same angle of forward bias on both of them. I know any and all mechanical interaction can be fixed electronically but I like to get everything as perfect mechanically as I can get it. This comes from 42 years of flying RC helicopters especially during the early days when there were no electronic fixes and everything was solved mechanically. I still find that a great mechanical setup where minimal electronic assist is the best. Just wondering your thoughts on all this since this is my first DLG ever?

[@ArmSoar]

Yes, small deviation there. I like to have the two wing servos have the output as close to each other as possible and have the pushrods as matched as I can. I don't think pushing the servos closer to the sides will work, unless you are able to completely clear the rear servo's motor so you don't need the bent pushrod ends on the servo side. In which case, the because the heigh of the servo arm + pushrod is lower, then it can clear. If you still need to use the pre-bent servo-side pushrod, then it'll be too tall to clear the curve of the fuselage near the sides. You're absolutely right, always adjust mechanically where possible and only use electronic adjustment on the radio if there is no other practical way to do things.

[@funkysaxmankt]

Great job again Thomas! Thank you for all these great videos.

[@ArmSoar]

Glad you like them!

[@dougturner2036]

Thank you!

[@ArmSoar]

You're welcome! The plane flies great, have fun!

[@Rusty-Metal]

Diamond burr bit link is dead

[@ArmSoar]

Thank you for the heads up, I have updated the link. We'll spend some time to go through all the links this weekend to do some maintenance!