Klicky Probe - FlintZtone version... Simplest Z probe (switch) ever?

Klicky Probe - FlintZtone version... Simplest Z probe (switch) ever?
I just had to make something temporary while I figure out what kind of z switch to use. We have a challenge with docking. Do you have an idea where we can dock a unclid or similar?

[@HelgeKeck]

like it

[@vhoward1122]

I have installed a Euclid probe on my Voron 2.4. Works well. I like it better than the bl touch.

[@a1hamer]

Very nice design for a consumerable. Function over vorm or let f360 do its magic thing . I like it a lot.

[@NickNick2024]

It seems like unklicky is a good option if chamber temperature may exceed 85C. I don't know if there are any high temperature microswitches.

[@PRO3DESIGN]

I like the Unclid better than the unklicky but yeah I will figure something out

[@BigfootPrinting]

There definitely are high temp switches. I’ve seen some tolerant to 125C in spec sheets.

[@C1Rob1990]

So basically you made the annex quickdraw which was the inspiration for klicky?

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Oh is that what the quickdraw was. I did not know this. Thank you

[@inanagr7871]

👍

[@mvorn44]

Laser?

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Maybe later. I made a replacement now with an unclid. It endures heat

[@BigfootPrinting]

Just don't forget to attach it and crash the print head

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Its going to happen for sure

[@3dexperiments]

@@PRO3DESIGN Is it possible to put a pause & prompt gcode in the homing process to confirm that the probe is in place?

[@xsunnycrazyx]

@@3dexperiments If the probe doesn't attach to the tool head while probing it will show an error.

[@HicSvntDracones]

Why not just go sensorless? I switched my Sidewinder X1 to sensorless after upgrading to a SKR mini e3 and having issues with the endstops being 3 pin and the board only having slots for 2 pin, was a lot easier to turn it on than to run 5v to each endstop, just had to enable one thing in marlin. I'm not using it for auto-level, as my bltouch works fine, but X and Y is just as accurate as the inductive endstops that came with the machine, so it should definitely be just as accurate as a mechanical limit switch like what you are using, as long as you have the sensitivity set right so nothing has a chance to flex. Yeah, TMC2209's do cost if you don't already have one, but you can get boards with them preinstalled, like the mini e3 for fairly cheap, and the performance increase alone is usually enough to justify the $40 cost. If you do already have sensorless homing capable drivers, then no reason to not use the sensorless homing feature

[@PRO3DESIGN]

All axes uses stallguard homing. This is for the bed leveling

[@HicSvntDracones]

@@PRO3DESIGN you can use it for auto leveling also :) Granted I'd use a bltouch over sensorless, just saying, can't get cheaper than nothing

[@johndevires5911]

@@HicSvntDracones I think that is how Ultimaker does it, and it seems to work well.