Klipper on Ender 3 😱

[@YouMakeTech]

Please hit the like button if you find this video helpful as a token of appreciation for all the effort it took to make this video and also so that this video can spread to more people. Thanks for your support!

[@schreckles]

THANK YOU! You just made something I've been putting off super easy to understand in 5 minutes with nothing unnecessary.

[@gamercraft5008]

can you please share your profile for the slicer you were using with klipper. I cant get Cura to work with me and Idk how to use anyother slicer. (Thanks :)

[@YouMakeTech]

www.youmaketech.com/klipper-print-settings/

[@gamercraft5008]

@@YouMakeTech Thank soo Much

[@antlu65]

Very happy that i switched to Klipper from stock Marlin. Am getting significantly faster prints at higher quality. Your instructions were very helpful. Thanks! 👍

[@footballera-i2p]

Is it worth buying ender 3 to use it with klipper and linear rail to get quality prints? I was planning to get voron 2.4 but it costs a lot more so i cant make decision which one to buy

[@rastercaster]

My god man. This is first video on Klipper I could stand to watch from beginning to end. Good work, definitely will be referencing this video on my Ender 3 V2 Extended 400XL.

[@theone-rx1tv]

On of the best and easiest to understand video on the subject I have seen. And I have seen a lot and read a lot.

[@t1mmy13]

I was sold before the first minute of the video was over, I need this!

[@SzymonSays1]

Awesome. Now just need to find the energy to do this!!

[@YouMakeTech]

Yes, it takes some time to set this up but it is worth doing!!

[@SzymonSays1]

@@YouMakeTech So, i got the energy, and made it happen. Only took 1 month! However, it's amazing. I printed a Voron Afterburner and installed it. Looks amazing. Prints great. Thanks for the inspiration! However, i did have a few road blocks along the way and it was not 100% with your tutorial, but i got there in the end witht he help of the Discord community. Question: Can you please link the test files that you printed? Especially the long L shapex on the showed ringin in X Y and Z.

[@YouMakeTech]

@@SzymonSays1 Glad you like Klipper... Setting this up is a bit time consuming but it is worth doing, right?! Happy printing with Klipper and see you soon on YouMakeTech!

[@tomtlc]

Thank you for this video. With this and other sources I was able to instal Klipper to my Ender3.

[@YouMakeTech]

Thank you for your comment. Glad the video was helpful!

[@daverave999]

Great video, thanks. It hadn't occurred to me to use the same accelerometer in both positions! I enjoy your more technical video style too. I'll be checking out your other uploads.

[@driftx2]

Just switched to klipper and it's the best thing I did.

[@JulienLangot]

Total respect ! C.est très impressionnant !

[@mutthunaveen]

Hi, tempting video... 😎😎 Will this solution work on ender 3 creality3d v1.1.4 main boards as well? Let me know I will immediately update mine... 😎😎

[@YouMakeTech]

Yes it will work 👍

[@mutthunaveen]

@@YouMakeTech ok I'll try this week...

[@YouMakeTech]

Cool. It takes a bit of time to set this up but it is really worth doing! Please let me know how it goes and if you need some help, I am here

[@mutthunaveen]

@@YouMakeTech Hey man. Finally managed to upgrade everything on my ender 3 v1.1.4 board..... Everything works well Only pressure advance is pending... 100mm per sec works good. Ringing is reasonably good. Thanks for motivating mate.

[@Mr_Gadge]

Ive had this setup for ages, but a new firmware update stopped my printer dead. I now have to learn about rotation, until then I can't print. Are you doing a video about this? I'm sure it's stopped lots of people. I'm going to re-watch your advance part of the video slowed down 10 times lol :) many thanks.

[@YouMakeTech]

Well, I have only had this setup for a couple of months, therefore you probably know way more about Klipper than I do! Are you referring to the new rotation distance parameter? www.klipper3d.org/Rotation_Distance.html Last time I updated Klipper, it broke everything... I had to recompile the firmware and so on. From now on, I probably stop updating Klipper as it works fine like this!

[@Gryzounours]

Wow, 28 minutes for a benchy is pretty impressive. Correct me but it's absolutely impossible to achieve this speed without a bondtech bmg extruder that you talked about in the other video ?

[@YouMakeTech]

Yes the time is driven mostly by the volumetric flow rate capability of your hotend/extruder. With a Bondtech BMG and an E3D V6, I reach 15mm3 per second at 230 deg C. With the stock setup, the volumetric flow rate is about half of that, 8-10 mm3 per second, which would double the time it takes to print a 3d benchy. Some setups can achieve even higher throughput

[@Gryzounours]

@@YouMakeTech Do you know the ender 3 S1 (and pro) new Sprite extruder and hotend performances on klipper compared to your setup ?

[@reinux]

Thanks for this guide, was super easy to follow :D Now I just gotta figure out slicer settings.

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks. You can find my slicer settings at www.youmaketech.com/klipper-print-settings/

[@reinux]

@@YouMakeTech Awesome, thanks!

[@JoseGonzalez-cm7nd]

What do your accelerations look like in your printer.cfg?????

[@YouMakeTech]

3000 mm/s2. With 3000 the print quality remains as good as with Marlin at 1000. I tried higher accelerations (up to 15000) but the print quality is bad

[@faridchiah1211]

Bonjour, j’aime bien tes vidéos mais le souci c’est que je ne crois en rien du tout en français et je trouve que tu es déjà bien à la base mais pourrais-tu les faire en français merci

[@Eadsn]

Great video! Informative and fast paced, which I prefer as pause is a thing 😄 Could you please tell me what camera mount you are using?

[@YouMakeTech]

Thank you! Free time is in limited supply therefore I make short and fast paced content to not waste your time! The camera mount in the video is from Thingiverse: * Creality Ender 3 Pi Cam Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987719 * Creality Ender 3 Pi Cam Arm: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886101

[@bittz128]

It somewhat makes sense that the value was too high for the pressure advance. I would assume you would want a mean value of the best outcome. For this, maybe the computation would be (measurement / 2 * .005)? This would give you 0.03625 and would afford some over/under for variance. Great video! Thanks for the detailed info!

[@jonisalonen6765]

* .005 for direct drive and .020 for bowden extruder

[@hidesh77]

This video made me subscribe to the channel, I don't even have an Ender 3, but a Tronxy X1. Great video :D

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks for subscribing and welcome to my channel!

[@zola5584]

Can you print offline with Klipper?:) U know for example u move somewhere without connection and printer with u

[@YouMakeTech]

Not really unless you install KlipperScreen. On my ender 3 pro, I also can print from the LCD display but not all directories/files show up due to a limitation/bug in Klipper. On the Ender 3 V2, you lose the screen completely and you have to print either from the web interface or install a screen with the KlipperScreen interface. Video coming shortly about this

[@zsiga09]

Great video, exactly what I needed. Thanks!

[@srinivashk3602]

Hi can you try volcano with 0.4 nozzle with klipper with settings 0.2mm layer height, 60mms on outer perimeter, 150mms on inner perimeters, 150-200mms infill, 3k-5k acceleration and make a video about it please please. We want to get into speed printing with klipper without spending much money for expensive hotends and setups. This would mean we can use the volcano to get the job done I would like to know how it performs. Every youtube video tells only about 0.8mm,1mm nozzle etc But no clarity on 0.4mm with fast speeds.. This would be a great video. Please.

[@YouMakeTech]

Hi, this will work perfectly fine with the Volcano, I have tested it: no problem. I have been trying to make a video about the E3D Volcano for over a year now. But I cannot really make use of its full potential on the Ender 3. Actually, the Volcano is a bit overkill for the Ender 3. The Volcano can achieve 3x the flow rate of the E3D V6: 40-45 mm3/s! This means that to reach the limit of the Volcano with a 0.4mm linewidth and a 0.2mm layer height, you must print at 500mm/s! Unfortunately, the max accel on the Ender 3 to get good quality prints is around 3000mm/s². Therefore it takes ~40mm to go from 0 to 500mm/s at 3000mm/s². That's why the Volcano is better used to print wide & thick layers and big parts. With a 1mm linewidth, a 0.5mm layer height, you only need to print at a speed of 80mm/s to reach a flow rate of 40mm3/s and you don't have to go crazy about accels. So for big parts, you reduce the print time by a factor 3 without degrading print quality. I made some testing with 0.4mm nozzle on the Volcano on my Ender 3 Pro and could not do much more than the V6 at this nozzle size. The Volcano really shines when you use big nozzles and print big parts!

[@srinivashk3602]

@@YouMakeTech thanks very helpful.. Awesome response.

[@mattdupont272]

Je me suis bien arraché les cheveux entre le bootloader verouillé, le flash, la configuration du bltouch, mais sa fonctionne. ma CM est 1.1.4 j'ai reussi à flash avec une commande. plus que l'adlx et le pressure advance et sa sera pas mal. merci pour ton temps passé

[@Kurnazify]

Klippeur very nice thanks for explanation make it look easy.

[@amorton94]

I have a bunch of Moonraker warnings and most seem to have something to do with PolicyKit but I can't find anything online about what to do about it. No video even mentions moonraker.

[@YouMakeTech]

Can you cut&paste the warnings you get?

[@amorton94]

@@YouMakeTech I swear, every time I comment on here with a question I figure it out shortly after. Apparently in an update the policykit permissions were messed up and you have to go in and fix it. So I am now up and running! I can move the printer with my computer. Now to just find out what the next step for me is.

[@ChazBword]

Thank you for making this video. This is great

[@YouMakeTech]

You're welcome. Glad you like it. Thanks for your feedback

[@haneen3731]

Nice editing!

[@YouMakeTech]

Thank you so much for your support! I didn't know anything about video editing/video content creation when I started this KZbin journey but I try to improve over time.

[@haneen3731]

@@YouMakeTech Awesome, I can see the improvement!

[@amorton94]

At 3:05 I notice you have a [board_pins] section in the config file. I don't see this in mine. Is this something I'm supposed to have?

[@YouMakeTech]

No. This is optional. It was defined in the default config file provided with Klipper. The [board_pins] section defines aliases for pins

[@austinadventures7388]

I'm going to attempt this on the Ender 3 Pro w/upgraded silent board. I have what I believe to be a working config

[@YouMakeTech]

I definitely recommend it especially if you want to print faster. I have also an Ender 3 pro with a silent board upgrade (V4.2.7) + additional upgrades (BondTech BMG, E3D V6, 5015 fan). Klipper might seem a bit intimidating but it is easier than it seems as long as you follow the documentation closely ... If you need it, you can check out at my Klipper configuration files on Github: github.com/YouMakeTech/klipper-ender3 . I also have links to the 3D printed parts & supplies that I use in the setup shown in the video: youmaketech.com/klipper-on-ender-3/ . Let me know how it goes and if there is any problem please feel free to contact me through KZbin, I will do my best to help you

[@randallcrisp3266]

This is BRILLIANT!

[@andreamitchell4758]

How does the input shaping work exactly? does it actually get real time data from the accelerometer constantly and correct in real time? I guess not since there is only one accelerometer and have to move it from the X to the Y axis so it just uses the accelerometer to do a one time evaluation instead then? seem like it would be a lot better if it used 2 accelerometers one for each access and could read process the data in real time to make corrections in real time not sure how much processing power would be required for such a task though but I would imagine that a one time reading would not tell all that much the vibrations must fluctuate constantly I am surprised it works or does much at all with on taking a one time reading for each axis.

[@YouMakeTech]

The accelerometer is only connected to the printer once to measure the resonance of the printer, i.e. the frequency at which the printer vibrates naturally, when excited by a sudden move of the printhead/bed Once this frequency is known, you enter it into the configuration file and Klipper applies an open loop compensation to remove this vibration. Instead of applying a step in acceleration, Klipper applies several steps separated by the resonnance period, such each step eliminates the oscillation generated by its predecessor. Every time you change a weight in the printer, you need to measure again the resonance, otherwise Klipper applies a compensation that is sub-optimal (timing is off). You could theoretically have the accelerometer connected permanently and use it to compensate the vibrations in closed loop, but this is not how it's done for the moment

[@andreamitchell4758]

@@YouMakeTech Thanks , that is what I thought , yeah it would probably be a lot better if there were 2 permanently mounted accelerometers ,one for the X and one for the Y axis and it have it read the data in real time and correct on the fly maybe the expensive or commercial or near commercial printers have some proprietary feature like this I don't know but hopefully your "for the moment" statement at the end will turn out to be prophetic and someone will make this an option in the open source FW community the accelerometers are dirt cheap so it would be a cheap and well worthwhile upgrade providing it wouldn't need too much processing power to achieve

[@amorton94]

Oh man! I think this video might actually help me in finally getting Klipper set up! I tried a few months ago and the videos I found just didn't really help. I'll be following this and trying when I get home!

[@YouMakeTech]

Glad it encourages you to try Klipper again! Feel free to ask if you have any issue, I'll do my best to help you

[@amorton94]

@@YouMakeTech Sorry for all the comments and the deletes. It seems that I ask question and then kind of figure it out. Now I am stuck with the config part. I have a bunch of moonraker errors where you don't. I'm doing this on a Ender 3 V2 and selected the v2 printer config file if that makes a difference.

[@SylvieTheBagel]

Would you recommend fluidd or octoprint? (Use fluidd, or install klipper with octopi)

[@YouMakeTech]

Fluidd 100%. Fluidd was made for Klipper and the communication between Klipper and the web interface is better

[@SylvieTheBagel]

@@YouMakeTech any thoughts on mainsail? currently installing that.

[@SylvieTheBagel]

@@YouMakeTech also, does Fluidd/klipper support plugins?

[@YouMakeTech]

Mainsail is good too, very similar to Fluidd.

[@YouMakeTech]

Yes it does but not all of them. Octopi is the most compatible for plugins but was not specifically developed for Klipper

[@Dampen_59]

Hello, thank you for the video, I successfully installed Klipper with BLT on my Ender 3, I received my ADXL today and already soldered it, after the calibration is done I can totally remove it ? Do you need to perform re-calibration ? If yes in which cases ? Thank you

[@YouMakeTech]

Glad the video was useful! You only need to re-calibrate when you make major changes to the printer (e.g.bowden -> direct-drive for example). Most changes (changing the bed material magnetic -> glass) have a negligible impact on the resonance frequencies. The optimal input shaping filters for the Ender 3 (3hump_ei and mzv) are not very selective and reduce vibrations by x10 or by x20 in a wide frequency band. Although it's always better to use the optimal frequency, small deviations of 5 to 10 Hz will not have a visible effect on print quality.

[@Dampen_59]

@@YouMakeTech thanks, I also printed and installed the blokhead thanks to your tutorial your videos are really useful 🙏 I will do the calibration with the blokhead then have a great festive season and best wishes

[@angelamidev]

You can include in the printer.cfg the mainsail.cfg without copying all the sections like you did.

[@reedzik]

Can someone make Video on Slicer for KLIPPER , and speed settings

[@YouMakeTech]

This is something I could do. The issue I have with this type of video is to find the right balance between print speed and print quality. For my Ender 3, I am happy with a Zig Zag, Infill Density: 6%, Retraction Distance = 0.3mm, Combing Mode = Off. In printer.cfg, you can boost the accel (some guys use up to 15000mm/s2!) and the corner speed (10mm/s)

[@jakhongiralimov7481]

quich and informative, thanks

[@savikate]

Omg. I learned some new things here. Mercy.

[@YouMakeTech]

Glad the video was useful. Thanks for watching!

[@CristianRivas]

I have a question, before minute 3:41, you have the issue such as me: The printer no ready and after that i see the MCU error, so how to solve it?

[@yashraj2687]

Does Kipper eliminates the motor noise for Ender 3 ?

[@YouMakeTech]

Yes it reduces the motor noise. I guess this is because Klipper control the motor at a higher rate. But if you really want to reduce the stepper motor noise, consider getting a Creality 4.2.7 maiboard or a Big Tree Tech SKR mini E3

[@yashraj2687]

@@YouMakeTech Due to import taxes the 32-bit boards are costly where I live but knowing that it can reduce those noises I am looking forward to upgrading. Thank you for the quality content and information.

[@YouMakeTech]

A mainboard with TMC drivers is the ultimate solution to reduce the stepper motors noise. But with with Klipper, you will already notice a significant improvement compare to Marlin

[@citronski]

The Ender 3 comes with a Melzi style Sanguino 8 bit board. You left out the step where you replace the mainboard.

[@fadetonoir6152]

Not all of them - some come with 32 bit boards. He says elsewhere in the comments he has the 4.2.7 board, so he didn't replace it; that is his stock mainboard.

[@garluis23]

Excelent video. I have installed klipper on one of my enders but I have two left that I couldn't. Will your method work with the 1.1.4 board?

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks for your comment. It should be possible in theory to make Klipper work with a 1.1.4 board but I haven't tried. This would require to update the printer.cfg file with the correct pins / settings + to compile a printer.bin firmware for the printer with the correct processor/bootloader etc. Unfortunately, I could not find an example printer.cfg file for this board with Klipper... So finding the correct information is going to be tedious!

[@garluis23]

@@YouMakeTech Yes I have klipper working on a 1.1.4. thank you I will do some research

[@SebCAO3D]

Bonjour, Serait-il possible de faire la même vidéo en français et sans Rapsberry stp ? Merci

[@aguilao28]

I thought 0.005 is for direct drive extruder. When ender 3 has a bowden type extruder. Am I wrong on the configuration?.

[@YouMakeTech]

You are right. I am using 0.005 because I upgraded my Ender 3 to direct drive. More info here -> kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKDPd2dneJx1gqs

[@jaggedpixel]

I have upgraded my original ender 3 with the 4.2.7 creality board. Would this make this setup exactly the same? Could I use your files without issue?

[@YouMakeTech]

My files are for a Creality 4.2.7 + Bondtech BMG extruder + E3D V6 hotend + BLTouch. If you have the same components, it will work right away, without any changes.

[@fredericorient1354]

Bonjour, par hasard, vous avez le tuto en Francais ? Merci

[@YouMakeTech]

Bonjour, non, mais vous pouvez activer les sous titres en francais

[@zergmare7]

I was thinking about doing this also, but I have an ender 3 v2. Also mine is extended out to 400mm and I was told that putting klipper on it would be pointless

[@YouMakeTech]

You should definitely give it a try because Klipper is the best upgrade I did on my Ender 3! It works on the Ender 3 V2 and the 400mm extender is supported. Not only you can print much faster, but the print quality is superior with Klipper: better retractions, less ringing etc.

[@zsiga09]

I have a question: you compiled the STM32 firmware while other sources indicate Atmega1284p. May I ask exactly what version is your Ender3? I'm guessing it's a V2..

[@YouMakeTech]

It's an Ender 3 Pro but with a 32 bits mainboard (Creality V4.2.7). For the 8 bits mainboards (V1), you would use the Atmega1284p.

[@zsiga09]

@@YouMakeTech Thanks! Yeah, it looks like I need to install a bootloader too before I can flash it.

[@YouMakeTech]

@@zsiga09 Yes, it's a pain... I had the same mainboard as you and decided to upgrade the mainboard before starting to upgrade the firmware (Marlin or Klipper)... If you consider upgrading, take a look at the BTT SKR Mini E3, I think it's the best mainboard for the Ender 3 (honest advice, I am not sponsored by BTT). The 8 bit Creality V1 mainboard works with Klipper. But the new mainboards (Creality V4.2.7 or BTT SKR Mini E3) have more memory, are easier to flash, and have silent drivers...

[@zsiga09]

@@YouMakeTech I hear you but I bought the Ender 3 just to print my parts for a Voron 2.4. Then I'll probably sell it, so I don't want to sink more money in it.

[@YouMakeTech]

Cool 👍 I should probably build a Voron too. I spent so much time, effort and money upgrading my Ender 3! It works very well now. I can't blame Creality. I mean I would never have bought a Voron or Prusa right off the bat without being sure I would love 3d printing!

[@mtzmechengr5781]

Is there any online vendor where I can purchase all the parts together?

[@YouMakeTech]

Amazon. You can find all the links on this page: www.youmaketech.com/klipper-on-ender-3/

[@marcosmartinezgarcia1963]

Great video, and very well explained

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks for your comment!

[@krakers665]

I have Ender 3 pro (board v4.2.2) and after putting sd card with compiled firmware with given parameters the LCD screen remains blank. Where the problem can be?

[@YouMakeTech]

This is expected. The screen will come back after you configure it in printer.cfg. To add the lcd screen to your printer.cfg, add the following lines: [display] lcd_type: st7920 cs_pin: PB12 sclk_pin: PB13 sid_pin: PB15 encoder_pins: ^PB14, ^PB10 click_pin: ^!PB2

[@krakers665]

@@YouMakeTech Thank You! I thought I did something wrong

[@YouMakeTech]

Sorry I forgot to mention it in the video. The first time I tried Klipper, I also thought the blue screen was a bad start... But this is not like Microsoft Windows! Keep going!

[@krakers665]

@@YouMakeTech thanks! I just got it running after hours of troubleshooting! I had a problem with accessing web interface (error 404). The only thing I did different than in tutorials was I used Ethernet connection and... It was the case! Web interface by default is accessible ONLY on IP of wireless interface. It took me so long... I think those are two informations worth mentioning in tutorial

[@bginvestor101]

Can this work with Pi 4 w/ 1 gig instead of 2 gig? Thanks!

[@YouMakeTech]

I haven't tried but I believe it will work just fine. Klipper is not memory hungry

[@slizzo25]

What does your start/end G-code look like in Cura? Mine is causing errors and not allowing me to print.

[@YouMakeTech]

My start G-code is: ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes G29 ; Bed Levelling G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish And my end G-code is: G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positioning G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

[@YouMakeTech]

Note that G29 is not supported by Klipper. G29 performs auto-bed-levelling in Marlin and is frequently added to start G-code in Cura. In order for Klipper to understand and execute the G29 G-code, you need to create a G29 macro as shown in the video

[@paintballercali]

Awesome video I used your printer config and it says my y endstop is triggred always i tried clicking it unclicking it adding a ! to the pin no change any ideas?

[@blackline67]

What about Z offset? I didnt see you have set it up.....

[@ko2705]

Nice and concise video. As I see it, it is a step by step guide. I have no experience with the Raspberry. With the instructions in this video, should it be possible for beginners like me to load these clippers with fluid onto the Ender? I have an Ender 3 pro with Silent board. Can the Klipper firmware be loaded directly onto the mainboard or does it have to be released for other firmware if only Marlin was on it? Thank you and please continue with these detailed videos.

[@YouMakeTech]

Not much can really go wrong if you have a backup of your current firmware (Marlin). Klipper consists of 2 "firmwares": 1 firmware runs on the Raspberry Pi and it is where everything is configured and computed. The 2nd firmware runs on the printer mainboard and replaces Marlin. The main difficulty is to get the right settings for your hardware in the printer.cfg config file. If it does not work, you only need to reflash the Marlin firmware on your printer by inserting an sd card with the firmware on it. Long story short: Make sure you have a backup of your current firmware or now how to compile a working Marlin fimware for your printer before attempting this. I am here to help if you have any issues. And beware, this takes TIME... Be ready to spend a full week end on this!

[@xCrytakerx]

Nice video, i use mainsail but it's nearly the same. but somehow my raspberry pi cant connect with the printer over USB, when i try to read the serial port it only shows "no such directory /file found", can anybody help?

[@YouMakeTech]

Have you tried with another USB cable? Many charging cables are not wired for data and do not work with Klipper. What do you get when you type in the Raspberry Pi shell: "ls /dev/serial/by-id/*". FYI I get "/dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0". When you did "make menuconfig", did you check USB (on PA11/PA12) as Communication interface?

[@xCrytakerx]

@@YouMakeTech i have tried 2 cables, one i used for connecting a xbox controller to pc and one phone charging cable. when i type "ls /dev/serial/by-id/*" i get "ls: cannot access ' /dev/serial/by-id/*"': no such file or directory" and i did the menuconfig like in the example codes

[@xCrytakerx]

@@YouMakeTech also my bin file to flash the creality mainboard does not convert into a .cure if that matters

[@xCrytakerx]

just fixed it, i tried many different cablse, one one is doing the job, a very old HTC phone charger cable, i dont know why but it works! and by the way. thank you for answering so quick ;)

[@YouMakeTech]

Good news! I had a similar issue. Many USB charging cables don't work because they are not wired for data transfer. I tried dozen of them too before finding one which worked!

[@m0neez]

Thank you, informative and fast. Is your e3pro with it's original components or did you made any hardware changes? I noticed direct drive, is that important to achieve fast prints? What type is it? Is there any changes if this guide used on e3v2?

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks for your comment. I also upgraded my Ender 3 to direct drive, with an E3D V6 hotend and a BMG extruder + 5015 fan for cooling. I cover this in more details in this video -> kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKDPd2dneJx1gqs . This is required to achieve 150 mm/s print speed at 3000 mm/s2.

[@m0neez]

@@YouMakeTech Thanks for replaying. I suped and going through your videos. Would this guide work with ender 3 v2?

[@YouMakeTech]

Yes, 99% of the guide is applicable to the Ender 3 V2. The only difference is the printer configuration file printer.cfg. My Ender 3 Pro has been upgraded to a Creality V4.2.7 mainboard and I use the "generic-creality-v4.2.7.cfg" from Klipper examples as a starting point. The Ender 3 V2 is normally shipped with Creality V4.2.2 mainboard and the pin names are different. You should start with the "printer-creality-ender3-v2-2020.cfg" example from Klipper. Also, the Ender 3 Pro has an LCD display and I add a [display] section to support it during the video. This is not applicable to the Ender 3 V2.

[@m0neez]

@@YouMakeTech Thanks for your notes, I'll take slow with the upgrades.

[@SoFZlodei24]

Great video. Now I really want to install klipper on my Ender3pro but looking at the prices of raspberry boards makes me cry.

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks. Yes, prices have inflated a lot. Looks like a Pi Zero is sufficient for Klipper, this may be less expensive.

[@SoFZlodei24]

@@YouMakeTech I would wait a little untill new year. Even Pi zeros are out of stock (where I live) and I don't want to pay a price of second Pi for shipping. I hope the shortages will end next year.

[@PhilippensTube]

You won't need a Pi4. A 3B is more than enough, and the new Pi Zero2 too. The 'old' Pi Zero can do it as well, but if you're going to run a camera off of it, you could run into issues.

[@VysesDarkheart]

​@@PhilippensTube So the Pi v1 and the Pi Zero are super similar and can both run this configuration albiet at around 80-90% usage. Pi 2 starts the quad core tradition, still 800-900 mhz but 4 cores now instead of 1. Pi2 with octoprint + about 22 plugins puts her at 30%ish or less when printing. honestly any pi will run this. and Pi v2+ are all capable of running multiple instances of this ie multiple printers.

[@PhilippensTube]

@@VysesDarkheart It all depends on which plugins. A Pi Zero with a webcam (resolution and framerate may play a role) could be a bit problematic. But in principle any Pi can run Octoprint.

[@ThePrintZone123]

it doesnt work with my cr touch any ideas it just keeps moving down even tho the probe is stuck out and i have to shut off my printer to make sure it doesnt break something please help.

[@hobbyistnotes]

Good Job! Very nice and helpful video, easy to follow!

[@YouMakeTech]

Thank you!

[@darklemon1]

Very well made guide thankyou!

[@YouMakeTech]

Glad you enjoyed this video. Thanks for watching and see you soon on YouMakeTech!

[@lanypuspasari1868]

What bltouch version your using?

[@YouMakeTech]

3.1

[@codytanksley6673]

Seems awesome but I just spent way more than I should have getting the bltouch, bondtech, and e3d v6 😅. What pi are you using here?

[@YouMakeTech]

I use a 3B+ I already bought for another project. Right now, it is kind of hard to buy a Raspberry Pi, they are out of stock everywhere and expensive... Looks like a Pi zero is sufficient and cheaper.

[@TalkingGIJoe]

Very fast tutorial! Hope I can keep up to get it all installed! lol

[@YouMakeTech]

That's right: my video is more like a "speed dating with Klipper" than a step-by-step tutorial! My goal is to provide a high-level preview of Klipper & a complete setup for the Ender 3 (hardware + configuration + performance). The Klipper documentation provides detailed installation instructions: www.klipper3d.org/Installation.html

[@methujeraya]

just to add. Fluiddpi for some reason is a mess. Wifi won't connect by itself via the wpa_supplicant configuration file. Had to go thru the KAIUH method

[@frabois3941]

Super vidéo, je cherche à augmenter la vitesse de mes impressions sur ma ender 3 pro et avec marlin ce n’est pas évident. Le raspbery offre cette possibilité. J’ai plus qu’à me mettre à la page

[@YouMakeTech]

Merci pour votre commentaire. Marlin est un super firmware mais Klipper a vraiment été optimisé pour imprimer vite. Avant même d'activer input shaping et habitué à Marlin, j'étais déjà impressioné par la fluidité d'impression de Klipper. Je pense que le contrôle des moteurs est beaucoup plus rapide et précis et la cinématique a été bien optimisée... Mais quand on active l'input shaping, on entre dans une autre dimension! Comme l'Ender 3 est plutôt lourde, dès qu'on augmente la vitesse, ca vibre dans tous les sens et la qualité d'impression se dégrade. Avec Klipper, l''input shaping compense les vibrations et on peut imprimer avec des accélérations de 3000-7000 mm/s² sans problème! Vraiment impresionné par Klipper.

[@Chief-CO]

Hello, when trying to get my BLTouch working it says this while homing z " 21:16:51 $ G28 Z 21:17:06 // Failed to verify BLTouch probe is raised; retrying. 21:17:08 // Failed to verify BLTouch probe is raised; retrying. 21:17:09 !! BLTouch failed to raise probe 21:17:09 !! BLTouch failed to raise probe"

[@yannickcolin3752]

hello je suis l'heureux possesseur d'une skr mini e3 v3.0 et d'une cr10. j'ai tenté de flashé la carte sous klipper mais ça ne fonctionne pas malgré plusieurs tentatives... pourrions nous prendre contact pour en discuter? merci

[@SkivaksXD]

i am having trouble setting up my printer.cfg file, i have creality 4.2.2 board, "poor man's bl touch" (selfmade bed level sensor). idk what pins do i need to use. can anyone help me ?

[@YouMakeTech]

Where did you connect your "BLTouch" to the Creality mainboard? On the Creality 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 mainboards, there is now a dedicated 5 pins port for the BLTouch. In that case, the pin names are the same as the ones shown in the video

[@haneen3731]

Great job!

[@KJcesarK]

can the ender motors handle 7k accel?

[@YouMakeTech]

Yes. 7k works but it was kind of the upper limit in my testing. I tried up to 10k but the motors were skipping steps. You may need to raise the VREF/Stepper motor current as per kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWPRnmCNmtmDpLc

[@leofregoneze]

Thanks to share your knowledge, I have a doubt it's possible to have same quality using a 8 bit board v1 and a raspberry pi and klipper ? Our it's require to have board 4.x.x I'm thinking to print speedrive v1 and use klippler with my v1 board , do you think that will work ?

[@YouMakeTech]

Yes, definitely. Klipper will work perfectly fine with your 8 bit v1 mainboard. All computations are made on the Raspberry Pi. The printer's mainboard is only used for low level interface with the stepper motors and printer. It does not need to be 32 bits! The only benefit of the 32 bits mainboars for Klipper is that they are silent

[@leofregoneze]

@YouMakeTech Tks for your fast reply ,another question I have TL boards , on past most people used to increase print quality and to me worked very well, with klipper installed can I remove this boards ?, or its better to keep installed ? I've already to do bootload and I'm preparing my Raspeverie Pie 3b , my measure frequencie board will arrive in few weeks , I'm thrilled to do this ...

[@YouMakeTech]

@@leofregoneze Sorry, I haven't tested this because I upgraded my 8 bits board to a 32 bits silent mainboard. Klipper operates the stepper motors at a much higher rate and very smoothly and you may no longer need the TL boards but you will have to test this for yourself.

[@Nikos_Husqvarna]

Salut et merci pour ta vidéo ! j ai juste un soucis, où se trouve le graphique de résonance X et Y, dans quel fichier aller le chercher stp ??

[@YouMakeTech]

Salut, merci pour ton commentaire. Normalement, il se trouve dans /tmp . Quand tu appèles le script Python, tu fournis en argument le nom et l'emplacement du fichier avec le graphique de resonnance: Pour X: ~/klipper/scripts/calibrate_shaper.py /tmp/raw_data_x_*.csv -o /tmp/shaper_calibrate_x.png -c /tmp/shaper_calibrate_x.csv et pour Y: ~/klipper/scripts/calibrate_shaper.py /tmp/raw_data_y_*.csv -o /tmp/shaper_calibrate_y.png -c /tmp/shaper_calibrate_y.csv

[@carloselmano6725]

Hello. Excellent video👏👏👏. One question: where can we get the print files? Thanks

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks for your comment. You can find links to all the print files on my website: www.youmaketech.com/klipper-on-ender-3/

[@reedzik]

@youmaketech when I add -44 and -13 as my end stops position to X and Y m my bed is then perfect 117,5/ 117,5 in the middle ( ender 3 ) but as soon as I ad offset to Bltouch --44 -8 , my bl touch start probing far to the right , like it take from 0.0 ( top left corner ) minus that from Bl touch and from end stop. need help

[@YouMakeTech]

Did you set position_endstop: -44 and position_min: -44 in [stepper_x]? The probing works fine for me (correctly centered) when I do this. You can see my printer.cfg file here: github.com/YouMakeTech/klipper-ender3/blob/main/klipper_config/printer.cfg

[@YouMakeTech]

Also your end stops offset in X seems quite large. The end stop X offset is the distance between the left edge of the bed and the nozzle when the X end stop triggers

[@reedzik]

It is 44 from top left corner to bed -44 on x and around -12 on y to 0'0 on bed ( top left corner ) your config show that in -32 on bltouch and on stepper -12 . Thats why your mid point is 151,115 and if you make steper x and y correct -44 and -12 but bltouch offset on 0 0 0 your bed will start at -44 to 0 to middle of the bed at 117,5 117,5 . But as soon as you ad bltouch offset it add this (-44s -44bl=-88 ) together . Same on y axis ( -15s -7bl= -22)

[@reedzik]

Problem than show after save cfg. Bed go to the middle if you home all axis , but bl touch start as he thinks that 0'0 bed is -88 from end and should -44 , to be starting point. Its complicated ;)

[@reedzik]

when u calibrate , make G28

[@baehr4308]

I cannot get in with host name, follwing everything

[@YouMakeTech]

Can you connect using the IP address? Connect to your box and see what name or IP adress your box assigned to your Raspberry Pi. You can then use them to connect to the Raspberry Pi. Sometime, the box renames the device

[@baehr4308]

@@YouMakeTech thanks for reaching out! i think i had an issue with installation, so i formatted drive better and tried again and then had some luck. i left everything default because i was getting confused on somethings when i customized it. All good, thanks for reaching out

[@Harinderbhinder]

Can I install Klipper on Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W? Right now I'm using ramps 1.5 and Arduino mega

[@YouMakeTech]

yes, no problem

[@Roys3dShop]

Thank you! Excellent video.

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks for your comment

[@thetruthwillsetyoufree6420]

Thank you so much!

[@piotrkorzeniowski628]

What printer.cfg file do you have that the LCD display works for you

[@YouMakeTech]

I added the lines below to my printer.cfg to have the stock lcd display of my ender 3 pro working: [display] lcd_type: st7920 cs_pin: PB12 sclk_pin: PB13 sid_pin: PB15 encoder_pins: ^PB14, ^PB10 click_pin: ^!PB2

[@lanypuspasari1868]

Can your share klipper config.printer.cfg and macros.cfg?

[@YouMakeTech]

Sure. They are on GitHub: github.com/YouMakeTech/klipper-ender3 . I don't use a macros.cfg but I use a custom menu.cfg

[@lanypuspasari1868]

thank you for sharing

[@frabois3941]

Bonsoir et bonne année 2022 pleins de projets. Je rebondi une fois de plus mais cette fois c'est au niveau de l'alimentation du pi à l'alimentation de la ender, pourquoi ne pas s'être raccorder sur une des bornes disponible de l'imprimante en 24V ?

[@YouMakeTech]

Bonne année! Le Pi nécessite d'être alimenté en 5 volts et ne peut pas être alimenté en 24 volts directement.

[@frabois3941]

@@YouMakeTech En effet d'où le convertisseur de tension, ce que je voulais dire c'est pourquoi passer par un cable Y XT 60 alors que l'on peut directement se connecter au 24V de l'alimentation par le biais de 2 câble avec des cosses U bien moins onéreuse

[@YouMakeTech]

Oui vous pouvez vous connecter aussi directement sur l'alimentation, aucun problème.

[@MrLou2211]

bonjour, est il possible d'avoir vos paramètres de vitesses de votre slcier, afin de permettre d'atteindre des vitesses aussi rapide sur un benchy ou un cube ? je suis sur Prusa Slicer et avec mes paramètres je n'arrive pas à descndre en vitesse autant que cela sur un benchy ? merci d'avance ;)

[@YouMakeTech]

Bonjour, voilà mes paramètres: Dans printer.cfg: max_accel: 3000 and max_accel_to_decel: 3000, square_corner_velocity: 5, pressure_advance: 0.04 and input shaping enabled. Dans Cura (pour du Sunlu Pla+): Layer Height = 0.25 mm, Line Width = 0.4 mm, Wall Line Count = 2, Top/Bottom Layers = 3, Infill Pattern = Cubic, Infill Density = 20%, Printing Temperature = 230°C, Build Plate Temperature = 70°C, All print speeds (infill, wall, support etc.) to 150 mm/s except Travel Speed = 250 mm/s, Initial Layer Speed = 50 mm/s and Skirt/Brim Speed = 50 mm/s. Number of Slow Layers= 1. Retraction Distance = 1 mm. Retraction Speed = 80 mm/s. Combing Mode = Not in Skin. Fan Speed = 100%. Initial Fan Speed = 0%. Regular Fan Speed at Layer = 2. Minimum Layer Time = 0 s (très important).

[@MrLou2211]

@@YouMakeTech merci beaucoup !!

[@intesral]

great video! thank you.

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks for your comment

[@saltyfpv3221]

Great video. Short and to the point. I recently ordered a rasberi pi 4 and can't wait to install kipper though it does look a little overwhelming lol. 🤞🤞

[@YouMakeTech]

Yes, it takes some time to setup. Stay calm and install Klipper!

[@mtzmechengr5781]

Sorry for multiple questions!! Which Raspberry Pi version should we use? 2/4/8 GB Ram?

[@YouMakeTech]

You're welcome.. A Raspberry Pi 2, 3 or 4 is recommended. 2 Gb of RAM is enough

[@the.real.ipatch]

amazing job dude. 👍 very well done. 👏

[@greliusz]

Wow! Sub!! will you do tutorial for CR-10S Pro V2?

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks for subscribing! Welcome to YouMakeTech! I would like to make Klipper tutorials on other printers like the CR-10 but at this point I only have an Ender 3 Pro. The steps would be 90% identical. If you find a printer.cfg for your printer, you should be fine.

[@TheYowzerr78]

hi, thank you for creating this, I have a ender 3 v2 with BL touch and 4.2.2, dual z's , stock hotend, stock extruder what firmware and print settings can I use? much appreciated , busy compiling the pi now

[@YouMakeTech]

You're welcome. You can find my print settings here -> www.youmaketech.com/klipper-print-settings/

[@that_weird_vtuber]

Do you have any idea how to make the ender 3 max with the v4 board work with klipper as I've tired many things but can't get the printer to boot

[@DarKon46]

Great video, thank you! I like the quick and to the point style. Do you mind sharing your slicer settings for the test prints? I'm having trouble getting down to 30min for the benchy.

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks for your comment. You can download the gcode I used for the 3D Benchy in the video here -> github.com/YouMakeTech/klipper-ender3/tree/main/demo . My print settings for a 0.5mm, Fill Gaps Between Walls = Nowhere, Z Seam Alignment = Shortest, Seam Corner Preference = None, Top/Bottom Pattern = Zig Zag, Bottom Pattern Initial Layer = Zig Zag, Monotonic Top/Bottom Order = Unchecked, Infill Pattern: Cubic -> Zig Zag, Infill Density: 20% -> 6%, Retraction Distance = 0.3mm, Combing Mode = Off

[@lanypuspasari1868]

What bltouch verion your using? V3 or v3.1?

[@YouMakeTech]

3.1

[@MarkSchipper1]

Thanks for this video it really helped. I'm setting it up on a PiZero2 for my Ender 3 Max with CR touch. Do you leave the Input Shaping sensor mounted to the print head or only use it when calibrating? Seems I can't have two configured at once and permanently mounted

[@YouMakeTech]

Thanks for your comment. I remove the accelerometer after calibration. It would be interesting to have it mounted all the time, but this would require to move it further up from the nozzle. Attaching the accelerometer to the nozzle provides the most accurate measurements

[@GeneralHowToTutorials]

Hey! I love your videos I will continue to keep watching. I have just recently ,after watching this video, hooked up my raspberry pi and installed klipper on my Ender 3 Pro, a jump a skip and a few hiccups later I am finally getting my printer to ... well... print. lol. What slicer are you using? and could you possible share your slicer profile or settings? your test cube looked amazing and at only 6 minutes is just flawless.

[@YouMakeTech]

Thank you so much for your comment. Glad you enjoy my videos! I am using Ultimaker Cura. These are my settings: In Klipper, I set max_accel: 3000 and max_accel_to_decel: 3000, pressure_advance: 0.04 and input shaping enabled. In Cura, start with the default 0.2 mm profile for the Ender 3. Then make the following changes (for Sunlu PLA+) : Layer Height = 0.25 mm, Line Width = 0.4 mm, Wall Line Count = 2, Top/Bottom Layers = 3, Infill Density = 20%, Printing Temperature = 230°C, Build Plate Temperature = 70°C, All print speeds (infill, wall, support etc.) to 150 mm/s except Travel Speed = 250 mm/s, Initial Layer Speed = 50 mm/s and Skirt/Brim Speed = 50 mm/s. Number of Slow Layers= 1. Retraction Distance = 1 mm. Retraction Speed = 25 mm/s. Combing Mode = Not in Skin. Fan Speed = 100%. Initial Fan Speed = 0%. Regular Fan Speed at Layer = 2. Minimum Layer Time = 0 s. Enjoy Klipper and see you soon on YouMakeTech!

[@GeneralHowToTutorials]

@@YouMakeTech Thank you so much. You are one of the greats.

[@janengelen1978]

@@YouMakeTech Thanks for sharing. I finished the update to klipper today and with your printer.cfg file and these cura setting I got a benchy done in 50 minutes. Any idea how to get it under 30 minutes ?

[@YouMakeTech]

With these settings, I print it in less than 28 minutes. Did you set Minimum Layer Time = 0 s in the slicer? This is super important and often overlooked. Otherwise the slicer reduces the print speed such that each layer is printed in no less than 15 seconds. Also some parameters are in the printer and not in the slicer (e.g. max accel and accel to decel). I use 3000 mm/s2 for both

[@YouTubestopsharingmyrealname]

ok, but what about flashing the printer?

[@YouMakeTech]

The flashing is done at 2:10 by inserting an SD card with the Klipper microcode on it

[@JayzStudio]

When adding bl touch is it the same process for cr touch. I’m switching to klipper tonight and making sure that I can tune my cr touch in with it.

[@YouMakeTech]

I have used both with the same config files/wiring on Klipper. Normally, it's plug & play. I know people had issues when using clones though, they were not 100% compatible

[@JayzStudio]

@@YouMakeTech awesome I got ender 3 I been trying to get little faster quality great but I find my self printing 8hrs on a 3inch by 2in model hahah thanks for the video I will follow step by step tonight. Thanks for replying back to me so quick.

[@frabois3941]

Est ce qu'un raspberry pi 3 B+ est compatible avec une ender 3pro avec klipper ?

[@YouMakeTech]

Oui c'est ce que j'utilise dans la vidéo

[@george_t_m]

This video was extremely helpful and well structured. Have you tried printing at high speed with a 0.12mm layer height? I'm working on dialing in settings for that and curious what speeds others are getting with Klipper on the ender 3 at that layer height.

[@YouMakeTech]

Thank you for your comment. I haven't tried with a 0.12mm layer height yet. I would be happy to do some testing. What kind of parts do you print? Do you have a link to an example .STL file? My print speed is mainly limited by 4 factors: 1) The max volumetric flow rate of the extruder/hotend. My setup is limited 15mm3/s which translates into a max print speed of 150mm/s for a 0.25mm layer height or 300mm/s for a 0.12mm layer height 2) Max acceleration. With my Ender 3 Pro and Klipper, due to the printer stiffness and mass of moving parts, the max accel I can use is limited to 3000mm/s². Above that, I get too much ringing and the print quality degrades too much. 3) The size and shape of the part you print: At an accel of 3000mm/s², it takes a distance of 15mm to reach a print speed of 300mm/s. If the parts you print are too small, you can set the print speed as high as you want, the printer will never actually reach it. It will be constantly accelerating/decelerating 4) Print quality: To improve the print quality, I print the exterior of the parts at 50% of the max speed.

[@george_t_m]

@@YouMakeTech Thank you for all that helpful info. That helped to confirm some of what I thought was correct. There seems to be so much conflicting/confusing info on 3D printing, it is hard to know what is correct. While working on tuning my settings for this layer height, I've just been printing Benchys. They print fantastically at .2 layer height but when I go down to .12, I find I have to print much more slowly than I would expect (even after tuning of retraction, pressure advance and input shaping). Through a lot of trial and error, I've been able to improve them a lot and eliminate most issues but still find the front bottom half of the bow to come out a bit rough and also the back two corners, not smooth at all in those places. I'd be very curious to hear what your results are at that layer height when printing a Benchy if you have time. Also, do you have a particular slicer you find that gives you the best quality? I'm on Cura right now and wasn't sure if it could be causing some issues somehow.

[@YouMakeTech]

May I ask why you want to use a 0.12mm layer height when you are satisfied with the quality you get with a 0.2mm layer height? 0.12mm seems quite low for a 0.4mm nozzle and it will be difficult to reach the max. volumetric feed rate of the extruder/hotend. What kind of print speeds/accelerations do you currently use? Cura is far from perfect but IMO gives the best print quality overall. I tried PrusaSlicer & slic3r but was not satisfied with the print quality + bugs.

[@george_t_m]

@@YouMakeTech I'd like to use .12 because of the reduced layer line appearance and slightly crisper details. While I am happy with how my .2 prints look, I occasionally print things where I want the details to be a bit more crisp and layer lines slightly less noticeable. I don't think I'm looking to max out my volumetric rate, my speeds just seem a bit low and I feel like I'm missing something somewhere. For print speeds, I am doing 100 mm/s infill, 75 mm/s interior perimeter/wall and 50mm/s external. I have acceleration set to 3000mm/s in Klipper. The only speed that really bugs me is 50mm/s on the external perimeters, the others are more acceptable. I expected to be able to go a bit faster than that (I can on .2) and even at that speed, I am having a couple small issues still. I'm thinking about giving SuperSlicer a shot and seeing if at the same speeds it eliminates the couple remaining small issues I am seeing.

[@george_t_m]

Just wanted to share I sliced this in Super Slicer and I got extremely smooth corners. I also got a much smoother hull surface. Sadly though, I got really horrible stringing and even a bit of under extrusion on the deck. So Cura seems to be best overall but going to try and figure out what they're doing differently on the corners / hull.

[@esonyt]

Hi there. I'm having trouble for 1:23. When I try to do it, it tells me "this site cant be reached." This is an error message:DNS_PROBE_FINISHED_NXDOMAIN. Please help.

[@YouMakeTech]

Have you connected your Raspberry Pi to the Wifi network like shown at 1:04? And selected a country? Without selecting a country, the wifi remains disabled. Otherwise check on your box that the Raspberry Pi was assigned an IP address and try to connect to it using the same address (e.g. 192.168.1.3) with a computer connected to the same network. You can also try to connect your Pi directly to the box with an ethernet cable

[@esonyt]

@@YouMakeTech Thank you so much, I was able to greatly benefit from this tutorial. I can finally print fast without loss in quality! By the way, do you know the settings you used to get a 30 minute benchy? Thanks again!

[@YouMakeTech]

👍 welcome to Klipper! You can find my settings to print a 3d benchy in 22 minutes here : www.youmaketech.com/klipper-print-settings/

[@esonyt]

@@YouMakeTech Thanks. I'm a little worried about the extruder distance on your cura guide.. Did you use a stock extruder or a better one? I promise this will be my last question about klipper.

[@YouMakeTech]

Because you accelerate very fast now (3000 mm/s2), the filament has no time to leak during non-extrusion moves. You can get away with very short extrusion distances. Anything above 0.3mm will work! Of course, with 0.3mm you have zero margin. I use 1mm for normal printing and 0.3mm for the 20mn benchy. Edit: I use a Bondtech BMG extruder with an E3D V6 hotend